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THE 


HISTORY  AND  GEOGRAPHY 

OF  THE 

MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 

TO  WHICH  IS  APPENDED 

A CONDENSED  PHYSICAL  GEOGRAPHY 

OF  THE 

ATLANTIC  UIITEB  STATES, 

AND  THE  WHOLE 

AMERICAN  CONTINENT. 

Second  Edition . 

My  Timothy  Flint, 

AUTHOR  OF  “ RECOLLECTIONS  OF  THE  LAST  TEN  YEARS  IN  THE 
MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY.” 

1 SALVE  MAGNA  PARENS : 

IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 

VOL.  I, 

€nmmiatu 

E*  H.  FLINT  AND  L.  R.  LINCOLN* 


1832, 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  ih  tlie  year  eighteen  hundred  and  thirty.on*,  ft/ 
Timothy  Flint,  in  the  Clerk’s  office  of  the  District  Court  of  Ohio. 


CINCINNATI. 
Press  of  L.  R.  Lincoln, 


TO 


.Joseph  Peabody, 

SALEM,  MASSACHUSETTS. 

SlR, 

1 have  ventured  to  inscribe  this  hook  with  your 
name,  for  the  following  reasons.  I wished  to  prove,  that 
much  as  I have  wandered,  my  heart  and  my  affections 
have  still  had  their  stationary  points.  It  is  my  pride 
to  hope,  amidst  all  the  vicissitudes,  through  which  I have 
passed,  that  the  friends  of  my  youth  will  be  those  of  my 
age.  Years  in  their  flight  will  never  shed  the  mildew  of 
oblivion  over  kindnesses,  which  have  marked  every 
period  of  my  Intercourse  with  you.  Those  kindnesses  are 
alike  associated  with  the  remembrance  of  scenes  that 
have  passed  in  the  land  of  my  birth,  and  in  distant  regions 
west  of  the  Mississippi.  To  you  and  one  other  friend  It 
is  owing,  that  I ever  appeared  before  the  public.  I know 
not,  if  the  public  will  thank  you,  or  if  it  ought.  I feel, 
that  I,  at  least,  ought  never  to  forget  the  kindness  and 
munificence  of  the  motive.  While  your  keels  plough 
every  sea,  bringing  home  the  rich  harvests  of  commerce, 
I have  always  known  you  the  earnest  and  consistent  friend 
of  the  sacred  soil  and  the  plough.  This  acquaintance 
with  predilections,  apparently  so  foreign  from  those,  which 
have  governed  your  pursuits  in  life,  has  added  an  induce- 
ment to  inscribe  to  you  a book,  which,  while  it  presents  a 


IV 


PKJM  CATION, 


brief  sketch  of  ail  the  great  interests  of  otir  country, 
dwells  with  most  detail  upon  the  fertility  of  the  American 
soil,  and  the  uncounted  millions  of  acres  of  its  untilled  and 
teeming  wilderness,  yet  to  be  occupied  by  independent 
and  happy  yeomen. 

Fortunate  as  has  been  the  general  course  of  your 
career,  since  my  first  work  was  inscribed  with  your  name, 
you  have  experienced  a loss  as  severe,  as  can  try  the 
human  heart,  and  have  sustained  it  with  a firmness  of 
Christian  philosophy,  which  proved  that  in  the  midst  of 
prosperity  you  had  not  forgotten  on  what  tenure  we  hold 
all  the  blessings  of  this  mutable  existence. 

May  you  continue  to  enjoy  the  luxury  of  doing  good, 
in  the  tranquil  repose  of  resignation  in  the  midst  of  the 
children,  that  remain  to  you,  rendering  your  age  as  happy, 
as  your  past  life  has  been  honorable  and  useful. 

With  feelings  of  indelible  gratitude  and  respect, 

I subscribe  myself  your  friend  and  humble  servant, 

Timothy  Flint. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  I. 


Introduction.  General  features  of  the  Mississippi  Valley,  17.  Face 
of  the  country,  18.  Minerals,  29.  Climate,  31.  Diseases,  35.  Trees 
and  shrubs,  40.  Vines  and  creepers,  50.  Shrubs,  53.  Herbs,  grasses 
and  flowering  plants,  54.  Medicinal  plants,  57.  Animals,  61.  Birds, 
69.  Reptiles  74.  Fishes,  79.  Rivers,  86.  Indians,  or  Aboriginal 
inhabitants,  103.  Monuments,  126.  Present  population,  130.  Na- 
tional character  of  the  western  people,  135.  Religious  character  of  the 
western  people,  141.  Pursuits  of  the  people,  147. 

Civil  History,  159 . Settlement  of  Canada,  Florida  and  Louisiana,  160. 
Character  of  the  colonists,  161.  Settlements  on  the'Ohio  and  Monongahela, 
162.  Settlement  of  Tennessee  and  Kentucky,  163.  Defeat  of  the  Ken- 
tuckians at  the  Blue  Licks,  164.  Settlement  of  Ohio,  165.  Invasion  of 
Pensacola,  167.  Massacre  of  the  French  at  Natchez,  167.  Braddock’s 
defeat,  168.  Victory  of  Wolfe,  capture  of  Fort  Loudon,  and  close  of 
the  war,  168.  War  of  the  American  revolution,  169.  Peace,  170. 
Spanish  treaty,  171.  Indian  war,  and  peace,  171,  Western  insurrec- 
tion, 172.  Cession  of  Louisiana,  172.  Burr’s  expedition,  173.  First 
steam  boat  on  the  western  waters,  173.  Renewal  of  the  Indian  war,  173. 
Surrender  of  Detroit  and  Indian  war  in  the  south,  174.  Massacre  of  the 
Raisin,  siege  of  Fort  Meigs,  defence  of  Fort  Stephenson,  victory  of 
Perry,  and  defeat  of  General  Proctor,  175.  Death  of  Tecumseh,  and  in- 
vasion of  Louisiana  by  the  British,  176.  Battle  of  the  eighth  of  January, 
177.  Peace,  178.  State  of  the  country,  178.  Failure  of  banks,  179. 
Relief  laws,  180,  Establishment  of  a sound  currency,  181.  Immigra- 
tion, 182. 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Florida,  195.  Climate  195.  Productions,  196.  Minerals,  199. 
Animals,  199.  Birds  and  fish,  200.  j Serpents,  201.  Insects,  Bays, 
Inlets  and  Sounds,  202.  River,  203.  Islands,  Curiosities,  Fountains, 
Lakes,  and  Springs,  204.  Savages,  Civil  Divisions,  and  population, 
206.  Comparative  advantages  of  immigration  to  Florida,  and  chief 
towns,  207.  History,  211.  Acres  of  marketable  land,  212. 

Alabama,  Civil  divisions,  and  population,  213.  Rivers  214.  Face 
of  the  country,  soil,  &c.  215.  Character  of  the  population,  217.  Semi- 
naries, Climate,  and  Diseases,  218.  Employment  of  the  people,  and  chief 
towns,  219.  County  towns,  and  Constitution  and  laws,  222. 

Mississippi,  Names  of  Counties,  Population,  and  Face  of  the  country, 
223.  Rivers,  224.  Islands,  Climate,  226.  Indians,  228.  Agricul- 
ture and  pursuits  of  the  people,  229.  Attention  to  schools,  Constitu- 
tion, Chief  towns,  230,  History,  232. 

Louisiana.  Parishes.  Population  by  the  census  of  1830, 233.  Face 
of  the  country,  soil,  &c.  234.  Agriculture  and  productions,  238,  Slaves, 
243.  Rivers  and  lakes,  245.  Islands,  253.  Bays,  Prairies,  254.  New 
Parishes,  Fortifications,  257.  Chief  towns,  258.  Roads  and  Canals, 
268.  Constitution  and  laws,  269.  Character,  270.  Religion,  272. 

Arkansas  Territory,  Civil  divisions  and  population,  274.  Face  of  the 
country,  274.  Rivers,  275.  Soil  and  productions,  279.  Climate  and 
salubrity,  281.  Settlements,  281.  Chief  towns,  282.  Indians,  283 
History  283. 

Missouri,  Civil  divisions,  and  population,  285.  Face  of  the  country. 
Soil,  286.  Productions,  288.  Animals,  291.  Agriculture,  292.  Houses, 
&c.  Climate,  283.  Salubrity  of  the  country,  295.  Scenery,  Roads, 
&c,  296.  Minerals,  Fossils,  &c.  297.  Rivers,  300.  Game,  &c. 
Chief  towns,  305.  Constitution,  Laws,  &c.  Manners,  &c.  310.  His- 
tory, 312. 

Illinois,  Civil  divisions  and  population,  316.  Face  of  the  country, 
318.  Rivers,  322.  Minerals,  325.  Agriculture  and  Manufactures, 
Chief  towns,  326.  Diseases,  &c.  328.  Roads,  Public  improvements, 
Seminaries,  &c.  328.  Constitution  and  Laws,  History,  329.  Curiosi- 
ties, 331. 


CONTENTS. 


VII 


Tennessee,  Civil  divisions,  Population,  333.  Face  of  the  country, 
335.  Earths,  Fossils,  and  salts,  335.  Climate  and  Productions,  336. 
Rivers,  337.  Agriculture,  produce,  and  manufactures,  chief  towns, 
338.  Natural  curiosities,  340.  Constitution,  Schools,  342.  History, 

343. 

Kentucky,  Civil  Divisions,  343.  Population,  346.  Face  of  the 
country,  346.  Rivers,  348.  Minerals  and  mineral  waters,  350.  Agri- 
culture and  produce,  351.  Chief  towns,  352.  Education,  359.  Char- 
acter, Manners,  &c.  365.  Religion,  constitution  and  government,  &c, 

366. 

Indiana,  Civil  divisions,  367.  Population  369.  Face  of  the  country 
Soil,  &c.  369.  Climate,  &c.  371.  Rivers,  372*  Chief  towns,  Char- 
acter of  the  country,  in  which  they  are  situated,  374.  Navigable  waters, 
382.  Indians,  383 . Game  and  fish.  Minerals  and  Fossils,  Antiquities, 
Curiosities,  384.  Roads  and  Canals,  385.  Seminaries,  385.  Con- 
stitution and  Government,  386.  History,  387.  Revenue,  388. 

Ohio,  Civil  Divisions,  389.  Population,  391.  Face  of  the  country, 
391.  Agricultural  productious,  393.  Rivers,  394.  Minerals  and 
mineral  spring,  402.  Climate,  403.  Antiquities,  404.  Increase  of 
population,  religion,  405.  Trade  and  Manufactures,  Colleges  and  Sem- 
inaries, 406.  Chief  Towns,  408.  Military  positions,  420.  Rhoads  and 
Canals,  420.  Militia,  Penitentiary,  Government,  421. 

West  Pennsylvania,  Population,  Face  of  the  country,  Education,  423, 
Inhabitants,  Chief  Towns,  424. 

West  Virginia,  Face  of  the  country,  430.  Streams,  Chief  Towns, 

43L 

Michigan,  Civil  divisions,  Population,  433.  Face  of  the  country, 
Rivers,  443.  Islands,  435.  Indians,  Climate,  436.  Agriculture,  Man- 
ufactures, Exports,  &c.  436.  Chief  Towns,  437.  Government,  His- 
tory, 438.  Sketches  of  the  lakes  and  the  river  Niagara,  439. 

North-West  Territory,  Rivers,  446=  Face  of  the  country,  Minerals, 
Climate,  447.  Towns,  448. 


Till 


CONTENTS. 


Missouri  Territory,  Face  of  the  country,  450.  Mountains,  451. 
Rivers,  452.  Climate,  454. 

Oregon  Territory,  458.  Rivers,  Face  of  the  country,  458.  Temper- 
ature, 459.  Discovery  of  the  country,  Mexican  States,  461. 


PREFACE. 


Had  the  author  been  aware,  when  he  assumed  this  task,  of  the  amount 
of  labor  and  difficulty,  in  which  it  would  involve  him,  he  would  have 
shrunk  from  it  in  dismay.  But  he  had  announced  the  work  and  made  no 
inconsiderable  progress  in  it,  before  a full  view  of  the  difficulties  and 
discouragements  opened  upon  him.  One  of  the  difficulties,  and  that 
by  no  means  an  inconsiderable  one,  was  that  of  procuring  materials  for 
all  that  part  of  the  work,  which  could  not  be  supplied  by  his  own  personal 
observation.  From  a general  consciousness  of  the  western  people,  of  th© 
incompetence  of  most  of  those  who  have  assumed  to  collect  materials  for 
works  of  this  sort,  and  an  unwillingness,  that  their  names  should  stand? 
as  authorities,  it  has  happened,  that  they,  who  were  most  capable  of  fur- 
nishing materials,  have  heard  with  indifference  and  neglect  solicitations 
to  furnish  such  materials. 

There  seems  to  be  but  one  sure  and  adequate  avenue  to  such  collection; 
and  that  is,  to  travel  from  state  to  state,  and  from  capital  to  capital,  to 
make  it  in  person.  Such  is  the  expense  attending  this  mode,  that  very 
few,  who  belong  to  the  proverbially  poor  fraternity  of  authors,  can  afford 
it.  Such,  also,  is  the  length  of  time,  necessary  to  complete  fsuch  a tour, 
with  the  requisite  deliberation  and  delay,  that,  owing  to  the  rapid  changes, 
effected  in  the  scene  by  time , the  first  part  of  the  sketch  has  become  an 
inadequate  representation,  before  the  last  is  completed.  Whatever  be  the 
industry,  honesty  of  intention,  and  ability  of  the  author  of  such  a work, 
he  must  be  content  to  prepare  it  under  all  these  disadvantages,  and 
identify  his  fortunes  with  a class  of  writers,  whose  writings  upon  similar 
subjects,  however  deserving,  have  rapidly  passed  into  oblivion.  In  addi- 
tion to  these  preliminary  difficulties,  the  author  had  to  encounter  that  of 
ill  health,  which,  whether  it  be  an  allowed  plea  to  enter,  in  palliation  of 
defects,  or  not,  is  certainly  a very  great  impediment  in  prosecuting  works 
of  this  sort.  At  the  same  time,  his  hands  have  been  filled  with  laborious 
avocations  of  another  kind 


2 


X 


PREFACE, 


But  it  is  unnecessary  to  dwell  on  these,  and  various  other  difficulties 
easy  to  name.  The  author  had  given  a pledge,  and  ‘put  his  hand  to  the 
plough .’  He  felt,  too,  that  he  had  some  grounds,  on  which  to  assume 
such  a work.  He  had  devoted  the  best  portion  of  twelve  years  to  explor- 
ing the  Western  country.  He  had  remained  one  or  more  seasons  in  each 
of  its  great  divisions.  He  had  been  familiar  with  Cincinnati,  St.  Louis? 
and  New  Orleans,  the  points  most  central  to  the  information  and  resources 
of  their  respective  divisions,  and  had  resided  in  each  of  those  capitals. 
He  had  traversed  this  great  valley,  in  all  its  chief  directions,  in  an  em- 
ployment, which  had  necessarily  brought  him*4n  contact  with  all  classes 
of  its  people,  and  all  its  aspects  of  society.  He  had  had  abundant  com- 
munications with  its  scholars  and  distinguished  men.  As  an  earnest 
lover  of  nature,  he  had  contemplated  nature  in  the  West,  in  the  original, 
and  in  all  her  phases.  On  foot,  and  alone,  he  had  wandered  beside  her 
Wg  and  devious  streams.  He  had  been  between  two  and  three  hundred 
days  on  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributary  waters.  He  had  published 
^-Recollections’  of  these  journeyings,  which  had  been  received  by  the 
public  with  great  kindness.  His  chief  efforts,  as  an  author,  had  been 
directed  to  bringing  the  people  of  the  West  acquainted  with  one  another, 
and  the  beauty  and  resources  of  their  own  great  country.  He  hopes,  it 
will  not  be  deemed  assumption  for  him  to  say,  that  he  has  done  something 
towards  bringing  about  an  intimacy  of  good  feelings  between  the  elder 
sister,  whose  fair  domain  is  the  east  country,  the  fresh  breeze,  and  the 
shores  of  the  sea;  and  her  younger  sister,  whose  dotal  portion  is  the 
western  woods,  and  the  fertile  shores  of  the  western  streams. 

A kind  of  affectionate  feeling  for  the  country,  where  he  has  enjoyed, 
and  suffered,  all  that  the  human  heart  can  be  supposed  capable  of  feeling 
on  this  side  of  the  grave,  which  contains  his  children,  his  charities,  and 
all  those  ties,  which  call  forth  aspirations  for  its  well-being,  after  he  shall 
be  in  the  dust,  enlisted  his  first  purpose  to  commence  this  work.  The 
general  amenity  of  its  aspect,  its  boundless  woods  apd  prairies,  its  long 
and  devious  streams,  and  its  unparalleled  advancement  in  population  and 
improvement,  filled  his  imagination.  He  had  seen  the  country,  in  some 
sense,  grow  up  under  his  eye.  He  saw  the  first  steam  boat,  that  descend- 
ed the  Mississippi.  He  had  seen  much  of  that  transformation,  as  if  of 
magic,  which  has  converted  the  wilderness  to  fields  and  orchards.  He 
has  wished  to  transfer  to  others  some  of  the  impressions,  which  have 
been  wrought  on  his  own  mind  by  witnessing  those  changes.  Such  were 
some  of  the  motives,  that  impelled  him  to  undertake  this  work. 

He  has  a distinct  foresight  of  the  views,  which  some  will  entertain,  and 
express  in  reference  to  this  work.  But  he  can  pronounce  with  perfect 
simplicity  and  confidence,  that  his  least  fears  of  criticism  are  from  those 


PREFACE. 


XI 


whose  candor,  experience  and  ability  best  qualify  them  to  judge.  At  any 
rate,  he  will  cheerfully  suffer  the  sentence,  whatever  it  may  be,  which 
the  western  people  shall  pass  upon  this  work.  To  those,  who  have  pre- 
dicted, that  he  would  draw  too  largely  upon  the  language  and  the  color- 
ing of  poetry  and  the  imagination,  he  can  only  say,  that  it  has  been  hig 
first  aim,  to  compress  the  greatest  possible  amount  of  useful  information 
into  the  smallest  compass.  He  has,  therefore,  rather  to  apprehend,  that 
the  intelligent  will  find  it  too  statistical  and  laconic,  too  much  abbrevi- 
ated, and  divested  of  detail. 

Something  more  than  half  the  compass  of  this  work  is  original,  in  the 
strictest  sense  of  the  word,  the  remarks  and  details  being  the  fruit  of  his 
own  observation  or  reflection.  . What  has  been  suggested  by  the  reading 
and  observation  of  those,  who  have  preceded  him  in  labors  of  this  kind* 
will  be  generally  found,  he  thinks,  to  have  been  assimilated,  to  use  amedh 
cal  term,  and  to  have  received  in  his  mind  the  moulding  of  his  own 
manner.  But  touching  the  matter  obtained  from  other  books,  he  claims 
no  other  merit,  than  that  of  being  a laborious  and  faithful  compiler. 
In  some  instances,  where  the  thoughts  could  not  be  better,  or  more  briefly 
expressed,  the  words  of  the  original  authors  may  have  been  used.  He 
has  referred  to  at  least  thirty  volumes,  and  to  those,  who  might  feel 
disposed  to  suggest,  that  he  has  made  a book  from  the  labors  of  others, 
he  would  beg  leave  to  remark,  that,  if  they  shall  be  pleased  to  think,  that 
they  have  found  the  substance  of  all  these  volumes  in  this  work,  he  shall 
consider  it  the  highest  encomium,  they  can  pass  upon  it. 

Pie  feels  it  to  be  a duty,  once  for  all,  to  make  the  most  frank  and  ample 
avowal  of  the  sources,  to  which  he  has  chiefly  repaired  for  compilation. 
That  works  of  history  and  geography  must  necessarily  be  prepared  in 
this  way,  no  person,  at  all  acquainted  with  the  nature  of  such  writings, 
need  be  told.  As  well  might  a traveller  presume  to  claim  the  fee-simple 
of  all  the  country,  which  he  has  surveyed,  as  a historian  and  geographer 
expect  to  preclude  those,  who  come  after  him,  from  making  a proper  use 
of  his  labors.  If  the  former  writers  have  seen  accurately,  and  related 
faithfully,  the  latter  ought  to  have  the  resemblance  of  declaring  the  same 
facts,  with  that  variety  only,  which  nature  has  unstamped  upon  the  distinct 
elaborations  of  every  individual  mind.  Those  who  have  preceded  him, 
have  availed  themselves  of  the  observations  of  their  predecessors.  The 
author  flatters  himself,  that  his  work,  in  its  turn,  will  be  consulted  by 
those,  who  will  come  after  him.  As  works  of  this  sort  become  multi- 
plied, voluminous  and  detailed,  it  becomes  a duty  to  literature  to  abstract, 
abridge,  and  give,  in  synoptical  views,  the  information  that  is  spread 
through  numerous  volumes.  So  far  from  its  being  the  tendency  of  a 
work  of  this  kind  to  undervalue,  and  preclude  the.  use  of  works,  from 


TREE  ACE. 


xii 

which  it  is  compiled,  he  would  hope,  that  adverting  to  the  original  works, 
by  pointing  to  the  sources  of  his  information,  would  have  the  contrary 
effect  of  inducing  those  readers,  who  wish  to  view  the  subject  in  all  its 
details  and  bearings,  to  repair  to  those  works,  and  rescue  them  from 
oblivion.  Many  of  them  are  works  of  great  merit,  and  have  undeservedly 
passed  into  disuse. 

He  has  not  considered  it  necessary  to  give  individual  quotations,  or  to 
disfigure  the  margin  with  references  and  authorities.  The  reader  ought  to 
rely  upon  the  fact,  that  nothing  is  here  put  down,  which  has  not  been 
previously  weighed  in  the  author’s  mind,  and  admitted,  either  as  matter 
of  his  own  observation,  or  on  what  he  conceived  to  be  the  competent  and 
credible  testimony  of  others.  Sometimes  upon  a particular  point,  he 
has  adopted  the  phraseology  of  the  author  entire.  At  other  times,  he  has 
adjusted  the  views  of  one  author  by  another,  endeavouring  to  settle  a 
just  medium  from  the  result  of  his  own  observations. 

For  the  topographical  and  geographical  parts,  he  has  chiefly  consulted 
the  following  authors,  viz : Charlevoix,  Volney,  Bartram,  Breckenridge, 
Darby,  Stoddard,  Atwater,  Ohio  and  Mississippi  Navigator,  Dana,  Emi- 
grant’s Guide,  Long’s  Expeditions,  Pike,  Schoolcraft,  Beck,  successive 
extracts  from  Cincinnati  Directories,  and  Woodruff’s  Engraving  of  the 
city,  correspondence  with  Mr.  Dunbar  of  Mississppi,  Dr.  McKay  of  Arkan- 
sas, Judge  Carr  of  St.  Louis,  Rev.  M.  Peers,  and  Professor  Caldwell  of 
Kentucky,  Daniel  Bryan,  Esq.  of  Alexandria,  and  Messrs  Lanier  and 
Farnham  of  Indiana;  beside  short  extracts  from  various  correspondents 
and  cotemporary  Gazettes  too  numerous  to  specify. 

In  reference  to  the  second  part  of  this  work,  it  is  from  the  obvious 
necessity  of  the  case,  more  simply  a work  of  compilation,  than  the  former- 
He  has  indeed  brought  every  item  of  his  own  personal  observation  to 
bear  upon  it.  But  that  observation  in  any  individual  case  must  be  limit- 
ed. He  could  not  name,  if  disposed,  all  the  sources,  from  which  he  has 
sought  and  obtained  information.  For  many  facts  he  has  relied  on  the 
authority  of  Mr.  Worcester’s  excellent  Gazetteer.  The  portions  of  the 
work,  that  treat  of  the  country  beyond  the  United  States,  have  been 
chiefly  drawn  from  Capt.  Parry,  Malte  Brun,  Humboldt,  Breckenridge, 
and  Bullock.  But  the  intelligent  reader  will  readily  understand,  that  in 
the  present  state  of  our  intelligence,  touching  the  physical  geography  of 
Mexico  and  South  America,  Malte  Brun  has  left  little  to  be  said  after 
him.  Of  course  he  has  been  the  authority  chiefly  followed. 

He  regrets  that  other  motives,  than  his  own  inclination,  inculcated  by 
experience  have  compelled  him  to  omit  the  greater  portions  of  the  history 
of  the  western  country,  and  replace  it  with  more  extended  details  of 


PREFACE. 


Xlll 


statistical  and  physical  geography,  the  points  of  absorbing  interest  about 
which  emigrants  to  the  great  West  are  chiefly  solicitous. 

He  would  have  been  amused,  if  an  author  were  apt  to  be  so  amused 
by  the  criticisms  elicited  by  his  first  edition.  He  desires  to  withdraw  his 
hands  from  the  scalding  element  of  cotemporary  history,  while  the  parties 
are  still  on  the  stage.  The  manner  and  form  must  have  been  fashioned 
to  the  dictation  of  a thousand  individuals  to  have  pleased ; and  what  is 
worse,  the  emendation  proposed  by  one  would  have  been  the  most  annoy- 
ing blemish  to  another.  He  knows  no  remedy  for  the  deluge  of  criticism, 
that  inundates  the  land,  but  a callousness  of  patience  equal  to  every 
proof.  The  reader  knows  better  than  himself,  that  it  is  a great  evil  to 
write  a great  book.  Though  he  is  desirous  of  perpetrating  the  very 
offence,  there  are  but  too  many,  with  whom  it  is  a more  unpardonable 
fault,  to  write  a good  one. 

His  former  work  met  with  a criticism  equally  generous,  eloquent  and 
just,  in  the  North  American  Review,  and  a shorter  but  not  less  generous 
and  happy  notice  in  the  New-York  Evening  Post,  he  has  no  doubt,  from 
the  pen  of  William  Bryant,  Esq.,  of  whose  laudatory  notice,  if  any  one 
were  not  proud,  he  would  be  more  or  less  than  man. 

He  would  have  attributed  something  of  the  fervid,  and  affectionate 
notice  of  that  work,  he  presumes  from  the  pen  of  his  friend,  Dr. 
Caldwell,  to  the  partiality  of  a long  and  tried  friendship,  had  he  not  been 
aware,  that  he  holds  even  his  partialities  in  severe  subjection  to  his 
judgment. 

To  Morgan  Neville  and  Charles  Hammond,  Esqrs.,  he  is  indebted  for 
much  aid  in  furnishing  books  and  documents  on  this  and  various  similar 
occasions.  It  would  be  ungrateful  in  him  to  close  without  referring  to 
the  continued  kindness  of  Henry  Starr,  Esq.,  who  confers  favors  with  so 
much  ease  and  unconsciousness  as,  probably,  to  have  forgotten,  that  he 
owes  him  this  public  expression  of  his  gratitude. 

F or  the  rest,  every  indulgent  reader  will  overlook  such  errors  of  the 
press,  as  have  occurred,  when  informed,  that  a considerable  part  of  the 
work  was  carried  through  the  press,  while  the  author  was  laboring  under 
severe  indisposition. 

Cincinnati , January  1st,  1832, 


XIV 


POSTSCRIPT. 


The  following  extract  from  a communication  from  Mr.  Neville  to  the 
author  of  this  work,  in  reply  to  certain  enquiries,  gives  a condensed  and 
hasty  account  of  the  dreadful  hood  which  has  just  spread  destruction  over 
an  extent  of  rich  and  fertile  country,  of  at  least  1,000  miles.  As  it  re- 
cords an  event  almost  simultaneous  with  the  publication  of  the  “Geogra- 
phy,” and  which  must  form  an  important  event  in  the  history  of  the  West, 

I have  thought  it  not  irrelevant  to  give  it  a place  in  the  Preface.  It  will 
be  of  more  convenient  reference,  than  the  columns  of  a newspaper. 

Cincinnati,  February  29th,  1832. 

Sir,  In  reply  to  your  interrogatory  on  the  subject  of  the  freshet,  which 
at  this  moment  presents  such  a scene  of  desolation  and  suffering,  I can 
state  that  in  my  opinion  such  a flood  has  never  happened  since  the  settle- 
ment of  the  Western  Country.  I was  bom  on  the  banks  of  the  Ohio, 
and  my  recollection  extends  back  to  a period  when  Cincinnati  was  but  a 
village;  and  I am  perfectly  satisfied  that  I never  saw  the  water  so  high  by 
many  feet. 

The  Ohio,  after  having  been  frozen  up  and  covered  by  the  thickest  ice  ' 
which  was  ever  witnessed  in  this  city,  during  the  whole  of  the  month  of 
December  and  part  of  January,  broke  up  about  the  6th  of  that  month, 
doing  incalculable  damage  throughout  the  whole  course  of  • this  noble 
stream.  From  that  period  until  about  ten  days  since,  there  has  been  a 
succession  of  rains,  which  were  sufficient  to  keep  the  river  and  its  tribu- 
taries at  heights  rather  greater  than  ordinary;  on  the  7th  of  this  month 
the  water  commenced  swelling  with  uncommon  rapidity,  with  a. settled 
rain,  the  wind  at  S.  W.,  and  the  temperature  such  as  to  lead  to  the  conclu- 
sion, that  the  rain  was  as  extensive  as  it  was  heavy.  On  Saturday  night 
the  10th  inst.  it  increased  to  a perfect  storm.  On  Monday,  12th,  the 
Ohio  had  gained  the  maximum  of  1826,  estimated  the  greatest.rise  for  the 
last  17  years.  At  this  point  it  appeared  to  become  stationary,  and  prob- 
ably had  commenced  receding.  A few  hours  produced  a melancholy 
change;  the  river  again  advanced,  and  passing  the  old  marks  of  1815, 
and  1793,  poured  its  flood  through  the  aqueduct  under  Main  street  into 
Columbia.  Shortly  after,  the  river  at  the  lower  part  of  the  town  broke 
over  the  Levee,  and  joining  the  water  rushing  out  of  the  aqueduct,  pre- 
sented the  novel  and  distressing  sight  of  a rapid  river  having  Columbia 
street  for  its  bed.  At  this  time  the  merchants  in  Main  street,  between 
Front  and  Columbia,  after  ineffectually  attempting  to  keep  the  water  out 
of  their  cellars  by  clay  embankments,  yielded  the  contest  and  turned  all 
their  exertions  to  removing  their  goods  from  their  cellars  to  their  first  floors. 
The  merchants  in  Front  street  had  been  driven  to  this  alternative  a day 
or  two  before.  The  draymen  now  having  nothing  to  do  in  their  usual 
business,  found  ample  employment  in  transporting  business  men  and  oth- 
ers, attracted  by  curiosity,  across  Columbia  street  at  the  different  cross 
streets,  from  Broadway  down  to  the  low  ground  at  the  west  end  of  the 
town.  In  the  mean  time  the  river  continued  rising  at  a rate  seldom  wit- 
nessed even  when  confined  within  its  banks;  the  merchants  in  Front  st. 
were  forced  to  remove  their  property  to  the  second  stories — those  on  Main 
soon  found  it  necessary  to  follow  their  example.  Drays  disappeared, 
and  small  crafts  of  various  and  novel  construction  took  their  place.  It 


POSTSCRIPT. 


XV 


was  then  found  that  precautions  for  security  had  been  postponed  too  long. 
A vast  amount  of  merchandise  and  produce  was  destroyed  before  it  could  be 
raised  to  the  second  stories.  The  lower  part  of  the  town  was  completely 
inundated,  and  the  small  frame  houses,  which  composed  the  greatest 
amount  of  buildings  in  that  section  of  the  city,  were  threatened  with  de- 
struction. I have  not  yet  understood  how  many  have  been  destroyed, 
but  in  looking  down  upon  them  from  Fourth  street,  I counted  yesterday 
nearly  20  entirely  upset.  The  call  of  humanity  was  obeyed  before  that 
of  interest;  labourers  could  not  be  had  in  sufficient  numbers  to  assist  the 
merchants,  because  they  were  engaged  in  removing  hundreds  of  wretch- 
ed families  from  the  flood  below.  There  were  several  steam  boats  in  har- 
bor, and  the  yawls  of  all  found  ample  employment.  The  edge  of  the 
water  below  Race  street  presented  scenes  only  equalled  in  cases  of  wide 
spread  conflagrations,  such  as  that  at  Fayetteville,  last  summer.  Boats 
were  constantly  landing  unfortunate  families  who,  with  their  little  prop- 
erty, remained  exposed  to  the  weather  until  the  city  authorities  could 
provide  shelter  and  food.  Finally,  on  Thursday  the  16th  inst.  the  work 
of  desolation  was  consummated;  the  water 'broke  over  the  bank  from  Deer 
Creek  bridge  at  the  east  end  of  the  city,  to  Main  street,  turned  the  current 
of  Columbia  street  down,  and  laid  the  whole  of  the  town  lying  between 
Lower  Market  or  Second  st.  and  the  river,  under  water,  except  the  large 
stores  on  the  south  side  of  Pearl  and  Market  streets.  The  cellars  of 
those,  however  were  filled  with  water,  which,  with  little  variation,  rose  in 
them  all  to  within  an  inch  or  two  of  the  floors.  I believe  the  cellars  on 
the  north  side  of  these  streets  are  partially  filled  with  water  also. 

The  scene  presented  at  this  moment,  and  the  revolution  produced  in 
the  appearance  of  things  can  scarcely  be  believed  by  ourselves ; it  re- 
sembles more  the  extravagance  of  a dream,  than  reality.  All  that  part 
of  the  town  below  Walnut  street  under  water  is  occupied  by  private  resi- 
dences, and  probably  includes  nearly  one-third  of  the  population  of  the 
city.  Water,  Front,  and  Columbia  streets  are  distinguished  by  many  ex- 
cellent brick  houses ; the  population  is  more  dense  than  in  any  other  portion 
of  the  town.  When  the  water  reached  the  first  floor,  the  families  remov- 
ed up  stairs,  and  those  who  were  sufficiently  provident  to  have  fuel  car- 
ried up  in  time,  have  remained  ever  since,  (now  4 days,)  in  their  houses, 
surrounded  by  a sea  in  miniature;  many,  however,  have  abandoned  their 
houses  and  taken  up  their  residence  at  public  houses,  and  with  their  friends 
on  the  hill.  Notwithstanding  this  melancholy  state  of  things,  the  mode 
of  living  is  matter  of  amusement  to  many  of  the  families  thus  surround- 
ed. When  misfortune  cannot  be  avoided,  there  is  a kind  of  instinctive 
philosophy  in  man,  which  makes  us  submit  often  with  a good  grace. 
Thousands  of  boats  have  sprung  into  existence,  like  Minerva,  from  the 
brain  of  the  “Thunderer.”  The  scene  is  absolutely  Venetian.  Every 
house  has  its  boat,  already  called  a gondola,  in  which  the  owners  travel 
about  on  their  necessary  vocations;  visits  are  regularly  made  in  this  way. 
In  passing  down  to  a friend’s  house  yesterday  in  his  “craft,”  I passed  two 
or  three  gondolas  with  young  gentlemen  in  them,  under  the  windows  of 
their  female  acquaintances;  I cannot  say  decidedly  that  they  were 
breathing  vows  or  wafting  sighs  to  the  ears  of  the  laughing  fair  ones  * 
but  I did  observe  wicker  baskets  drawn  up  by  cords,  which,  on  enquiry, 
I found  to  be  filled  with  refreshments  instead  of  billets.  This  employ- 


XVI 


POSTSCRIPT. 


ment,  if  not  so  dangerous  was  doubtless  equally  useful  as  that  of  the 
old  Knights  Errant  relieving  imprisoned  damsels  from  the  castles  of 
giants  and  magicians. 

The  waters  have  commenced  receding  this  day,  the  19th  inst. ; but  the 
river  falls  slowly.  The  amount  of  damage,  exclusive  of  the  actual  sus- 
pension of  all  business,  cannot  be  yet  estimated;  but  it  must  be  very  consid- 
erable. I have  already  heard  of  several  individuals  who  have  lost  from 
4 to  6,000  dollars  in  damaged  goods;  but  the  worst  remains.  We  dread 
to  see  the  state  of  the  streets  and  cellars  when  the  river  subsides.  It  will 
be  terrible,  and  unless  the  most  vigorous  measures  be  immediately  taken, 
our  beautiful  and  flourishing  city  will  probably  next  summer  be  the  thea- 
tre of  some  malignant  disease. 

This  flood  forms  an  Era  in  the  history  of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi; 
it  is  probably  four  to  five  feet  higher  than  any  freshet  which  has  happened 
since  the  first  settlement  of  the  country;  and  when  we  reflect  that  it  has 
swept  through  a country  well  filled  with  towns  and  villages,  and  distin- 
guished by  fertile  fields  and  rich  settlements,  for  the  distance  of  900 
miles,  our  anticipation  must  needs  be  most  gloomy.  The  loss  of  life,  we 
fear,  must  be  great;  the  loss  of  property  can  never  be  calculated.  The 
bottom  ground  plan  of  Cincinnati  is  as  high,  if  not  higher,  than  any  other 
bottom  situation  of  the  river. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  citizens  of  Cincinnati  will  have  cause  to  remember 
the  winter  of  1831-2.  It  was  ushered  in  by  a series  of  cold  weather  never 
witnessed  before  in  this  country,  either  for  intenseness  or  duration,  which 
closing  the  river  and  canal  for  six  weeks,  made  fuel  as  dear  and  scarce  as 
in  the  Atlantic  cities.  Next  the  Water  Works  was  burnt  down,  which, 
in  addition  to  the  want  of  water,  produced  the  necessity  of  establishing 
Volunteer  Watches,  to  prevent  further  suffering  from  fires.  And  to  con- 
clude, we  are  now  visited  by  a flood  of  a character  which,  20  days  ago, 
we  would  have  considered  as  improbable,  as  a collision  with  the  expected 
comet ! 

The  water,  at  its  highest  elevation,  was  63  feet  above  low  water  mark. 
The  velocity  of  the  current  six  miles  and  a quarter  per  hour. 


HISTORY  AND  GEOGRAPHY 


OF  THE 

VALLEY  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI® 


We  do  not  intend  in  these  introductory  remarks,  to  enlarge  upon 
so  copious  an  article,  as  the  geology  of  this  valley.  We  reserve  more 
particular  observations  for  sectional  heads  of  this  subject.  We  dismiss 
it  here,  by  observing  that  the  valley  itself  is  universally,  of  what 
geologists  call  secondary  formation,  with  here  and  there  boulders  of 
granitic  rock,  out  of  place  ; that  the  western  slopes  of  the  Alleghanies 
are  generally  of  what  is  called  the  transition  character ; that  the 
southern  extremities  of  the  lakes  are  transition,  and  the  nothern  granitic 
and  primitive  in  their  formation  ; that  the  Rocky  Mountains  are,  for  the 
most  part,  primitive,  until  we  approach  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  the  Mexican 
state  of  Texas,  where  the  strata  of  rock  again  appear  to  be  blue  lime 
stone.  Over  all  the  immense  valley  between  these  limits,  there  are 
marks  of  recent  formation, — apparent  indications  as  Volney  conjectured, 
that  the  country  was  once  submerged,  and  has,  not  many  ages  since, 
emerged  from  under  waters  ; and  that  to  casual  inspection,  the  vallies, 
the  bluffs  and  the  hills,  the  regular  lamina  of  stones,  and  strata  of  soil, 
the  marine  exuviae,  and  in  short,  all  the  physical  aspects  of  the  country 
wear  the  appearance  of  once  having  been  the  bed  of  seas,  or  fresh  water 
lakes. 

From  its  character  of  recent  formation,  from  the  prevalence  of  lime 
stone  everywhere,  from  the  decomposition  which  it  hasun^§rgDne,andis 
constantly  undergoing,  from  the  considerable  proportion  of  decomposed 
lime  stone  in  the  soil,  probably  results  another  general  attribute  of  this 
valley — its  character  of  uncommon  fertility.  We  would  not  be  understood 
to  assert,  that  the  country  is  every  where  alike  fertile.  It  has  its  sterile 
sections.  There  are  here,  as  elsewhere,  infinite  diversities  of  soil,  from 
the  richest  alluvions,  to  the  most  miserable  flint  knobs  ; from  the  tangled 

3 


18 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


cane  brakes,  to  the  poorest  pine  hills.  There  are,  too,  it  is  well  known, 
towards  the  Rocky  Mountains,  wide  belts,  that  have  a surface  of 
sterile  sands,  or  only  covered  with  a sparse  vegetation  of  weeds  and 
coarse  grass.  But  of  the  country  in  general,  the  most  cursory  observer 
must  have  remarked,  that,  compared  with  lands,  apparently  of  the  same 
character  in  other  regions,  the  lands  here  obviously  show  marks  of 
singular  fertility.  The  most  ordinary,  third  rate,  oak  lands,  will  bring 
successive  crops  of  wheat  and  maize,  without  any  manuring,  and  with 
but  little  care  of  cultivation.  The  pine  lands  of  the  southern’  regions 
are  in  many  places  cultivated  for  years,  without  any  attempts  at 
manuring  them.  The  same  fact  is  visible  in  the  manner,  in  which 
vegetation  in  this  country  resists  drought.  It  is  a proverb  on  the  good 
lands,  that  if  there  be  moisture  enough  to  bring  the  corn  to  germinate, 
and  come  up,  there  will  be  a crop  if  no  more  rain  falls,  until  the  harvest. 
We  have  a thousand  times  observed  this  crop,  continuing  to  advance 
towards  a fresh  and  vigorous  maturity,  under  a pressure  of  drought,  and 
a continuance  of  cloudless  ardor  of  sun,  that  would  have  burned  up 
and  destroyed  vegetation  in  the  Atlantic  country. 

We  have  supposed  this  fertility  to  arise,  either  from  an  uncommon 
proportion  of  vegetable  matter  in  the  soil ; from  the  saline  impregnations 
mixed  with  the  earth,  as  evidenced  in  the  numberless  licks,  and  springs 
of  salt  water,  and  the  nitrous  character  of  the  soil,  wherever,  as  in 
caves,  or  under  buildings,  it  is  sheltered  from  moisture  ; or,  as  we  have 
remarked,  from  the  general  diffusion  of  dissolved  lime  stone,  and  marly 
mixtures  over  the  surface.  In  some  way,  spread  by  the  waters,  diffused 
through  the  soil,  or  the  result  of  former  decomposition,  there  is  evidently 
much  of  the  quickening  and  fertilizing  power  of  lime  mixed  with  the 
soil. 

Face  of  the  Country,  &c.  Our  prescribed  limits  will  necessarily 
dictate  brevity  to  us,  in  touching  on  this  topic.  The  Alleghany  moun- 
tains, as  is  well  known,  stretch  along  in  ridges,  that  run  parallel  to 
each  other,  with  great  uniformity.  They  form  the  eastern  rampart  of 
this  great  valley.  The  middle  ridge  appears  to  be  generally  the  most 
elevated;  to  separate  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  from  those  of  the  Missis- 
sippi ; and  gives  name  to  the  rest.  Another  of  these  ridges  has  the  name 
of  the  Laurel  ridge,  from  the  number  of  laurels  growing  on  its  sides. 
Approaching  these  ridges,  they  are  a sublime  object,  as  seen  in  the 
distance.  They  rise  before  you,  apparently  an  impassable  barrier,  their 
blue  outlines  pencilled,  like  clouds,  on  the  sky,  and  their  northern  and 
southern  extremities  both  running  beyond  the  reach  of  vision.  The 
ascent  from  the  Atlantic  side  is  generally  more  abrupt  and  precipitous, 
than  on  the  descent  towards  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 


FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY* 


10 

The  last  western  range  exhibit^,  very  strikingly,  the  regular  distributioil 
of  the  lamina  of  lime  stone,  and  the  uniformity  of  their  dip,  as  though 
they  had  been  laid,  stratum  upon  stratum,  by  art.  The  composition  is? 
for  the  most  part,  either  lime  stone,  argillite,  gray  wacke,  and  combina- 
tions of  slaty  matter  with  sulphate  of  iron;  in  short,  those  kinds  of 
combinations,  which  occur  between  metaliferous  lime  stone,  and  inclined 
sand  stone.  Between  the  Alleghany  mountain  and  the  last  western 
ridges,  the  tributaries  of  the  Ohio  begin  to  show  themselves  in  the  form 
of  rivers.  Their  murmur  is  heard,  as  they  rapidly  roll  along  their  rocky 
beds,  breaking  the  stillness  of  the  mountain  forest;  and  they  often  wind 
great  distances,  before  they  find  their  place  of  escape  from  the  mountains. 
The  scenery  on  one  of  the  transits  over  the  mountains  has  arrested  the 
attention  of  most  travellers.  A turnpike  road  leads  near,  where  the 
Loyalhanna  has  divided  the  Laurel  ridge  to  its  base.  The  view,  that 
appertains  to  this  chasm,  is  at  once  striking  and  sublime.  A beautiful 
mountain  stream,  overhanging  mountains,  the  breeze  sweeping  down 
the  sloping  forest,  profound  solitude,  the  screaming  of  the  jay,  and  the 
dash  of  the  river,  rolling  rapidly  along  its  rocky  bed,  and  its  water® 
hidden  under  the  shade  of  laurels,  conspire  to  soothe  and  elevate  the 
mind. 

After  we  descend  the  last  mountain  summit  towards  the  valley,'  the 
country  is  still  a succession  of  high  hills,  generally  rounded  smoothly 
down  their  declivities,  and  with  more  or  less  of  table  land  on  their 
summits.  On  the  very  tops  of  the  Alleghanies  we  discover  the  indica^ 
tions  of  approach  towards  the  region  of  coal.  On  the  summits  of  the 
hills  beyond  the  mountains,  the  eye  not  only  traces  it  among  the  clay 
slate,  by  the  blackened  surface  of  the  road,  but  the  sense  of  smell 
detects  it  in  the  atmosphere  about  the  houses,  and  indicates,  that  in  the 
midst  of  woods,  it  is  the  easiest  fuel  to  procure.  Its  dark  smoke 
streams  from  the  funnel  of  the  blacksmith^  forge.  Pittsburgh  and 
Wheeling  are  blackened  with  its  impalpable  effluvia. 

Following  the  course  of  the  Alleghanies,  south  of  the  Ohio,  and 
along  the  foot  of  the  ridges  is  generally  a country  of  undulating  and 
elevated  swells,  covered,  while  in  its  natural  state,  with  a heavy  forest. 
The  country  about  Pittsburgh  may  be  called  hilly,  though  there  are 
few  hills  so  precipitous,  as  not  to  be  susceptible  of  cultivation.— 
Through  the  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia  sections  of  the  Mississippi 
valley,  you  traverse  hill  beyond  hill,  generally  with  small  and  fertile 
vallies  between  them.  Some  of  these  hills  have  almost  the  character  of 
mountains.  They  are  for  the  most  part,  however,  susceptible  of  good 
roads. 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


£0 

On  the  national  roach  as  we  descend  the  last  mountain  towards 
Brownsville,  and  the  valley  of  the  Monongahela,  the  eye  takes  in  an 
horizon,  as  broad  as  it  can  reach,  of  hills,  vallies,  orchards,  and  pasture 
grounds  of  champaigne  and  rich  country  in  the  two  states.  The 
contrasts  of  the  open  pastures  and  fields,  pencilled  by  a perfectly  straight 
line  on  the  edge  of  the  thick  forests,  and  on  the  rounded  summits  of 
the  hills,  afford  a delightful  prospect.  The  finest  parts  of  the  interior 
of  New  England  will  scarcely  compare  with  this  view.  The  same  may 
be  said  of  views  of  Tennessee  and  Kentucky,  as  we  successively  ap- 
proach them,  in  coming  over  the  mountains  from  North  Carolina  and 
Virginia.  After  we  have  left  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  mountains, 
Kentucky  is  neither  hilly,  nor  level,  but  has  a general  surface  of 
delightful  undulation.  There  are  beautiful  and  extensive  vallies,  with 
only  sufficient  irregularity  of  surface  to  carry  off  the  waters.  Such  is 
that  charming  valley,  of  which  Lexington  is  the  centre;  and  such  is 
that,  embracing  the  barrens  of  Green  river. 

Tennessee  is  more  generally  hilly.  The  great  ranges  of  the  Alleghanies 
diverge  into  separate  mountains  in  this  state  and  divide  it  into  two 
distinct  sections,  called  East  and  West  Tennessee. 

Keeping  parallel  with  the  mountains,  and  still  advancing  south,  in 
Alabama  the  hills  begin  to  subside,  although  the  northern  and  western 
parts  of  this  state  may  still  be  called  mountainous.  But,  on  entering 
this  state,  the  features  of  the  country  begin  manifestly  to  change.  On 
the  hills,  instead  of  oaks  and  deciduous  trees,  we  begin  to  hear  the 
breeze  in  the  tops  of  long  leaved  pines.  We  have  a long  succession  of 
pine  hills,  and  fertile  vallies  between  them.  We  soon  mark  another 
very  striking  change  in  the  landscape.  In  coming  from  the  Ohio,  we 
have  seen  the  country,  in  a state  of  nature,  universally  covered  with  a 
thick  forest,  generally  of  deciduous  trees,  with  here  and  there  a rare  holly 
tree,  or  other  evergreen.  We  have  afterwards  traversed  extensive  pine 
forests  of  the  black,  or  pitch  pine,  with  tall  straight  trees,  and  the  earth 
beneath  them  free  from  under  brush,  covered  with  grass,  and  almost 
entirely  destitute  of  stones.  In  the  rich  alluvial  vallies  we  remark  a 
considerable  portion  of  laurels.  The  forests  preserve  an  unvarying 
verdure  through  the  winter.  We  begin  to  notice  these  forests  first  giving 
place  to  the  barrens,  with  a few  sparse  trees,  arranged,  as  in  an  orchard. 
These  barrens  are  soon  succeeded  by  prairies,  or  savannas,  as  they  are 
here  called.  The  hills  have  subsided  to  extensive,  level  and  grassy 
plains ; and  this  order  of  landscape  continues,  until  we  meet  the  belt  of 
pine  forest,  that  skirts  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  Its  swampy  and  equable 
surface  rises  but  little  above  the  level  of  the  gulf,  and  is  separated  from 


FACE  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


21 


it  by  a margin  of  sand,  driven  into  heaps  by  the  mutual  incessant  action 
of  the  wind  and  the  sea. 

Beginning  again  on  the  north  side  of  the  Alleghany  river,  and  descend- 
ing that  river  between  the  north  bank  and  the  lakes,  the  first  portion 
of  the  country  is  hilly  ; but,  as  we  descend  towards  the  Ohio,  the 
country,  though  in  some  places,  particularly  along  the  Muskingum,  hilly, 
is  generally  only  gently  waving,  and  is  on  the  whole  more  level  than  the 
south  side  of  the  Ohio.  Approaching  the  lakes,  the  country  becomes  quite 
level;  and  there  are  various  places  in  the  northern  parts  of  Ohio,  Indiana, 
and  Illinois,  near  the  lakes,  where  the  country  is  so  level,  marshy  and  low, 
as  in  winter  and  spring  to  be  covered  with  water  from  four  inches  to  a foot 
in  depth.  The  northeastern  parts  of  Ohio  may  be  considered  hilly.  In 
passing  on  the  great  road  from  Wheeling  to  Cincinnati,  there  are,  indeed, 
near  the  Scioto,  considerable  plains.  But  the  general  aspect  of  the  eoun 
try  presents  fine  elevations,  often  a league  across,  with  rich  table  land  on 
the  summits,  and  the  declivities  susceptible  of  cultivation.  For  five  or 
six  miles  from  either  bank  of  the  Ohio,  there  are,  almost  universally 
high  hills  of  a singular  configuration,  known  by  the  name  of  the  4 Ohio 
hills.’ 

From  the  Scioto  the  aspect  of  the  country  is  more  level ; and  on  the 
waters  of  this  river  we  begin  to  discover  our  approach  to  the  wide  prairies 
of  the  west.  We  open  upon  the  fine,  level  Pickaway,  or  Piqua  prairies, 
or  plains ; and  thence  through  the  northern  parts  of  this  state,  advancing 
west,  along  the  plains  of  Mad  river,  and  into  Indiana,  prairies  become 
more  common  in  the  same  proportion,  as  we  advance  farther  west.  The 
general  surface  of  the  timbered  country  is  more  level.  As  we  approach 
the  Ohio,  the  forest  is  more  dense  and  uniform,  and  that  river,  in  its  whole 
course,  originally  rolled  through  an  unbroken  forest.  In  Indiana  the  pro- 
portion of  prairie  land  is  far  greater,  than  in  Ohio ; and  in  Illinois  it  has  an 
immense  disproportion  over  the  timbered  country  . Back  of  Shawnee  town, 
and  between  the  waters  df  the  Saline  of  the  Ohio,  and  those  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, from  the  base  of  this  level  country  springs  up  a singular  chain  of 
hills,  which  a recent  traveller  has  seen  fit  to  dignify  with  the  name  of 
mountains.  The  remainder  of  the  state  of  Illinois  may  be  for  the  most 
part  designated,  as  a country  of  prairies  and  plains. 

Beyond  the  state  of  Illinois,  advancing  north  on  the  east  side  of  the 
Mississippi,  pine  hills,  ponds,  lakes,  marshes  and  prairies  alternate  to  the 
sources  of  that  river.  The  plashy  regions  in  that  quarter  are  covered  with 
thick  wild  rice,  and  there  Providence  has  provided  inexhaustible  pasture 
for  the  countless  numbers  and  varieties  of  wild  water  fowls,  that  migrate 
to  these  regions  to  fatten  in  the  autumn,  before  their  return  to  the  south. 
Near  Rock  river  of  this  region,  we  come  upon  the  hills  and.  swells  of  land 


22 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


in  that  extensive  district  called  the  mineral  country,  where  the  ores  of  lead 
are  so  plentifully  found. 

The  surface  of  the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi  is  generally  much 
more  level  than  east  and  south  of  it.  There  are  bluffs,  often  high  and  pre* 
cipitous,  near  the  great  water  courses.  Not  far  west  of  the  Mississippi 
there  is  much  country  covered  with  flint  knobs,  singular  hills  of  conical 
shape,  that  with  a base  of  a mile  in  circumference  often  rise  four  or  five 
hundred  feet  high,  and  are  covered  on  their  sides  with  fieche , or  arrow 
stones,  of  a siliceous  substance,  not  unlike  flints,  and  used  as  substitutes 
for  them.  There  are,  as  in  the  country  between  the  St.  Francis  and  White 
river,  hills  that  might  almost  warrant  the  designation  of  mountains,  appear- 
ing to  be  continuations  of  the  Alleghanies,  whose  spurs  seem  to  cross  the 
Mississippi  in  the  Chickasaw  bluffs,  and  to  be  continued  to  the  west  in 
the  St.  Francis  hills.  But  the  general  surface  of  the  country,  between 
the  Mississippi  and  the  Rocky  mountains,  is  comparatively  speaking,  a 
vast  plain,  probably,  as  we  have  remarked,  the  largest  one  on  the  globe* 
Except  in  the  bluffs  of  the  rivers,  and  on  the  flint  knobs,  it  is,  on  the  sur- 
face free  from  stones,  to  an  astonishing  degree.  The  surface  of  prairie,  a 
hundred  leagues  west  of  the  Mississippi,  is,  probably,  in  comparison  with 
the  timbered  country,  in  the  proportion  of  twenty  to  one.  The  little 
timber,  that  is  seen,  occurs  only  on  the  skirts  of  water  courses.  As  we 
recede  from  the  margins  of  the  Missouri,  the  Platte,  the  Yellowstone, 
Arkansas  and  Red  rivers,  the  prairies  become  more  dry,  sterile,  and  desti- 
tute not  only  of  wood  and  water,  but  of  all  vegetation.  Travellers 
wander  for  days  in  these  desolate  wastes,  without  having  either  wood  or 
water  in  their  horizon,  over  sandy  deserts,  scantily  covered  wjth  coarse 
grass  and  weeds.  This  is  the  appropriate  range  of  the  buffalo.  In  some 
parts,  there  are  in  fact,  wastes  of  moving  sand,  like  those  of  the  African 
deserts. 

On  the  lower  courses  of  the  Missouri,  St.  Francis,  White,  Arkansas 
and  Red  rivers,  we  see  extensive  alluvions  skirting  their  banks,  of  great 
and  inexhaustible  fertility.  The  alluvial  prairies,  too,  in  these  regions 
teem  with  vegetation.  But  on  their  upper  waters,  as  soon  as  we  have  re- 
ceded from  a narrow  and  fertile  belt  on  their  shores,  the  boundless  waste 
of  the  prairies  beyond,  seems  destined  to  be  the  last  resort  of  buffalos,  or 
the  region  of  herds  of  domestic  cattle,  attended  by  migrating  shepherds. 

Mountains.  We  have  seen,  that  the  general  character  of  the  Alle- 
ghany ridges,  is  to  stretch  along  in  continued  and  parallel  lines,  the  central 
ridge  of  which  gives  name  to  the  rest.  The  spurs  of  these  ridges,  which 
in  Kentucky,  and  particularly  in  Tennessee,  under  the  names  of  the  Bald, 
Iron,  Laurel,  Yellow,  Unaka,  Copper,  Clinch,  Powell’s,  Cumberland,  &e, 
originate  streams,  diversify  and  give  grandeur  to  the  scenery  in  these 


MOUNTAINS® 


2S 


states,  are  all  in  cultivated  and  populous  regions,  and  will  be  described 
under  the  heads  of  the  states,  in  which  they  lie.  The  cliffs  and  rocks, 
of  which  they  are  composed,  bear,  as  we  have  remarked,  the  general 
character  of  transition  formation  ; and  the  strata  have  that  lamellated 
regularity,  and  that  uniformity  of  dip,  or  inclination,  which  have  been 
scientifically  described  by  geologists.  These  circumstances  are  so 
obvious  and  striking,  as  to  produce  even  in  unobservant  eyes  a degree 
of  surprise. 

That  immense  range  of  lofty  mountains,  which  gives  rise  to  the  long 
rivers,  that  wind  through  such  a vast  extent  of  prairies,  and  come  into  the 
Mississippi  on  the  west  side,  in  almost  its  whole  course  runs  wide  from 
the  limits  of  cultivation,  and  the  haunts  of  civilized  man. — Their  forma- 
tion,  character,  and  height  are  comparatively  but  little  known,  and  present 
descriptions  of  them  must  necessarily  be  vague  and  general.  They  will 
for  ages  only  attract  the  gaze  and  astonishment  of  wandering  hunters,  or 
occasionally  a few  enterprising  travellers,  that  will  scale  their  summits 
on  their  way  to  the  Western  sea.  Now  and  then  a savage,  differently 
constituted  from  the  rest,  will  pause  on  their  snowy  crags,  be  impressed 
with  their  sublimity,  and  think  of  the  Great  Spirit.  The  rest  will  con- 
tinue to  date  their  eras  from  the  time,  when  they  hunted  on  their  eastern, 
or  western  declivities.  It  will  be  long,  before  the  detached  mountains, 
and  the  prominent  peaks  will  be  named,  classed  and  described.  It  does 
not  appear,  that  many  of  them  rise  above  the  region  of  perpetual  ice. 
Though  from  the  passage  of  Lewis  and  Clark  over  them,  and  the  concur- 
rent testimony  of  others,  in  the  latitude  of  47°  north,  immense  quantities 
of  snow  are  on  their  summits,  between  the  Missouri  and  Columbia,  in 
the  months  of  June  and  July.  They  are  seen,  like  a vast  rampart, 
rising  from  the  grassy  plains,  stretching  from  north  to  south.  Sometimes 
their  aspect  is  that  of  continued  ranges,  of  a grayish  color,  rising  into  the 
blue  of  the  atmosphere,  above  the  region  of  the  clouds.  A great  num- 
ber are  black,  ragged  and  precipitous;  and  their  bases  strewn  with 
immense  boulders  and  fragments  of  rock,  detached  by  earthquakes  and 
time.  From  this  iron  bound  and  precipitous  character,  they  probably 
received  the  appellation, ‘ Rocky  mountains  ’ 

Whether  any  of  them  are  volcanic,  or  not,  is  not  certainly  known. 
We  have  often  seen  large  masses  of  pumice  stone  floating  on  the  Missis- 
sippi, and  still  oftener  on  the  Missouri.  These  are  generally  of  a reddish 
yellow,  or  flame  color,  and  are  among  the  largest  and  finest  specimens  of 
this  kind  of  stone,  that  we  have  seen.  Whether  discharged  from  volcanic 
mountains,  or,  as  others  assert,  from  hills  of  burning  coal,  is  not  certainly 
known.  Mica  is  abundantly  carried  along  by  the  waters,  that  flow  from 
£h£ke  mountains.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  these  ancient  and  mag- 


24 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


nificent  piles  are  of  primitive  formation.  They  are  much  higher,  more 
rugged,  and  have  generally  a more  Alpine  character,  than  the  Allegha- 
nies.  They  apparently  stretch  along  at  about  the  same  distance  from  the 
Western  sea,  as  the  former  from  the  Atlantic.  The  great  rivers,  that  are 
discharged  from  their  eastern  and  western  declivities,  wind  still  further 
between  their  interior  and  exterior  ridges,  in  finding  their  passage 
through  them.  The  Columbia,  or  Oregon  on  the  west,  and  the  Arkansas 
on  the  east,  wind  more  than  an  hundred  leagues,  in  search  of  a place  of 
escape  from  the  mountains. 

As  on  the  Alleghanies,  the  rivers,  that  run  in  opposite  directions  from 
these  mountains,  generally  have  their  sources  near  each  other.  In  fol- 
lowing the  beds  of  these  rivers  up  to  their  sources  in  the  mountains,  we 
find  the  easiest  paths  and  the  gentlest  acclivities,  by  which  to  cross  them. 
The  character  which  they  had  gained,  of  being  continuous,  high,  and 
every  where  alike  rugged,  and  a barrier  almost  impassable,  between  the 
regions  east  and  west  of  them,  from  the  descriptions  of  the  first  adventur- 
ers, who  crossed  them,  seems  now  to  have  yielded  to  a very  different 
impression.  Various  leaders  of  expeditions  of  trappers  have  crossed 
these  mountains,  in  directions  more  southern,  than  those  of  Lewis  and 
Clark.  They  affirm  that  they  found  none  of  those  formidable,  and 
almost  insurmountable  barriers,  which  undoubtedly  exist  on  the  route  of 
those  distinguished  travellers.  We  have  at  this  moment  under  our 
eye  extracts  from  the  journal  of  Mr.  Ashley,  the  leader  of  an  enter- 
prising and  powerful  association  for  procuring  furs,  who  has  crossed 
these  mountains  at  different  points.  This  journal  narrates  the  account 
of  a passage  over  them,  from  the  sources  of  the  Platte  to  lake  Bueneven- 
tura,  on  the  western  side.  It  asserts,  that  he  found  an  easy  passage 
even  for  loaded  carriages  j with  an  ascent  no  where  as  sharp,  as  on 
the  national  road  over  the  Cumberland  mountains  to  Wheeling.  He 
even  asserts,  that  the  acclivity  was  so  gentle,  as  no  where  to  have  an 
ascent  of  more  than  three  degrees ; and  that  nature  has  provided  not 
only  a practicable,  but  a good  road  quite  to  the  plains  of  the  Columbia. 
The  testimony  of  travellers  seems  to  be  uniform,  that  to  the  eye,  indeed, 
the  ranges  are  unbroken  and  continuous.  But  nature  appears  every  where 
to  have  indicated  her  wish,  that  no  part  of  the  earth  should  be  interdicted 
by  unsocial  barriers  from  communication  with  the  rest.  Through  the 
loftiest  and  most  continued  ranges  there  are  found  chasms,  natural 
bridges,  ascents  along  the  beds  of  rivers,  and  corresponding  descents  on 
the  opposite  side,  that  render  a passage  over  them  comparatively  smooth 
and  easy. 

We  know  not  exactly  on  what  ground  travellers  have  classed  this  vast 
range  into  the  divisions  of  the  Rocky,  Chepywan,  and  the  Massern,® 


GENERAL  SURFACE.-  ^5 

Mountains.  The  ranges  at  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas,  and  running 
thence  towards  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  have  so  commonly  borne  the  latter 
name,  that  they  will  probably  retain  it.  A single  peak  of  this  ridge, 
seen  as  a landmark  for  immense  distances  over  the  subjacent  plains,  has 
been  called,  and  we  think,  ought  for  ever  to  retain  the  name  of  mount 
Pike.  It  is  of  incomparable  grandeur  in  appearance,  and  has  been  dif- 
ferently rated  at  from  seven  to  ten  thousand  feet  in  height.  On  the 
ridges  of  this  range  the  Colorado  of  the  Pacific,  the  Rio  del  Norte 
of  New  Mexico,  the  Roche-jaune,  or  Yellowstone,  of  the  Missouri,  and 
the  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers  of  the  Mississippi,  that  have  their  outlets 
at  such  immense  distances  from  each  other,  have  their  sources.  It  will 
hence  be  easily  inferred,  that  this  is  the  highest  land  of  this  part  of  North 
America. 

Geographers  have  supposed,  that  it  is  a circumstance  of  course,  that 
between  all  rivers,  that  have  any  length  of  course,  there  are  ranges  of 
hills,  more  or  less  elevated,  separating  the  tributary  waters  of  the  one 
river  from  the  other.  It  is  often,  but  by  no  means  always  so,  in  this 
valley.  Many  of  the  large  rivers  have  no  other  separating  ridge,  than  a 
high  and  marshy  plain,  that  discharges,  as  has  been  remarked,  its  waters 
from  one  extremity  into  the  one  river,  and  from  the  other  extremity  into 
the  other.  But,  as  a general  rule,  in  the  medial  regions  of  this  valley, 
the  considerable  rivers  are  separated  from  each  other  by  ranges  of  hills, 
more  or  less  distinctly  marked.  In  this  region  of  plains,  where  a person 
may  have  been  born,  and  travelled  to  New  Orleans,  and  lived  to  old 
age  without  ever  seeing  an  elevation,  that  deserved  the  name  of  mountain, 
these  hills  become  respectable  by  comparison.  These  ranges  of  hills 
are  most  considerable  in  the  mineral  country  in  Missouri,  between  St. 
Francis  and  White  river,  in  Arkansas  territory,  between  Washita  and 
Red  river,  and  between  the  latter  river  and  the  Sabine.  South  and  east 
of  the  Mississippi,  there  are  considerable  ridges  of  this  character  in  the 
states  of  Mississippi  and  Alabama.  These  ranges  of  hills  will  be  more 
properly  noticed,  under  the  description  of  the  states  and  territories,  where 
they  respectively  occur. 

The  general  surface  of  this  valley  may  be  classed  under  three  distinct 
aspects ; the  thickly  timbered,  the  barrens,  and  the  prairie  country.  In. 
the  first  division,  every  traveller  has  remarked  as  soon  as  he  descends  to 
this  valley,  a grandeur  in  the  form  and  size  of  the  trees,  a depth  of  verdure 
in  the  foliage,  a magnificent  prodigality  of  growth  of  every  sort,  that 
distinguishes  this  country  from  other  regions.  The  trees  are  large,  tall, 
and  rise  aloft,  like  columns,  free  from  branches.  In  the  rich  lands  they 
are  generally  wreathed  with  a drapery  of  ivy,  bignonia,  grape  vines,  or 

4 


26 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


other  creepers.  Intermingled  with  the  foliage  of  the  trees  are  the  broad 
leaves  of  the  grape  vines,  with  trunks,  sometimes  as  large  as  the  human 
body. — Frequently  these  forests  are  as  free  from  undergrowth,  as  an 
orchard.  Sometimes  the  only  shrub,  that  is  seen  among  the  trees,  is  the 
pawpaw,  with  its  splendid  foliage  and  graceful  stems.  In  other  places? 
especially  in  the  richer  alluvions  of  the  south,  beneath  the  trees,  there  are 
impenetrable  cane  brakes  and  tangle  of  brambles,  briar  vines,  and  every 
sort  of  weeds.  These  are  the  safe  retreats  of  bears  and  panthers.  This 
undergrowth  universally  indicates  a rich  soil 

The  country  denominated  * barrens,’  has  a very  distinct  and  peculiar 
configuration.  It  is  generally  a country  with  a surface,  undulating  with 
gentle  hills,  of  a particular  form.  They  are  long  and  uniform  ridges. 
The  soil  is  for  the  most  part  of  a clayey  texture,  of  a reddish  or  grayish 
color,  and  is  covered  with  a tall  coarse  grass.  In  addition  to  a peculiar- 
ity of  feature,  more  easily  felt,  than  described,  the  trees  are  generally  very 
sparse,  seldom  large,  or  very  small.  They  are  chiefly  of  the  different 
kinds  of  oaks ; and  the  barren  trees  have  an  appearance  and  configuration, 
appropriate  to  the  soil  they  inhabit.  The  land  never  exceeds  second' 
rate  in  quality,  and  is  more  generally  third  rate.  It  is  favorable,  in  the 
proper  latitudes,  to  the  growth  of  wheat  and  orchards.  On  the  whole, 
this  country  has  an  aspect  so  peculiar  and  appropriate,  that  no  person^ 
at  all  used  to  this  country,  is  in  doubt  for  a moment,  when  he  enters  on 
the  region  of  the  barrens.  There  are  large  districts  of  this  kind  of 
country  in  Kentucky,  Tennessee  and  Alabama.  They  are  common  in 
Illinois  and  Missouri,  and  are  seen  with  more  or  less  frequency,  over  all 
the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 

In  this  region,  and  in  the  hazle  or  bushy  prairies,  we  most  frequently 
see  those  singular  cavities,  called  4 sink  holes.1  They  are  generally  in 
the  shape  of  funnels,  or  inverted  cones,  from  ten  to  seventy  feet  in 
depth,  and  on  the  surface  from  sixty  to  three  hundred  feet  in  circumfe- 
rence. There  are  generally  willows,  and  other  aquatic  vegetation,  at 
their  sides  and  bottoms.  The  people  here  have  their  own  theories,  to 
account  for  these  singular  cavities ; and  as  an  earthquake  is  the  agent 
most  likely  to  seize  on  the  imagination,  and  the  most  convenient  one  to; 
solve  inexplicable  results,  they  have  generally  supposed  them  the  work 
of  earthquakes.  Others  have  imagined  them  the  huge  wells,  from  which* 
the  domesticated  mammoths,  and  the  gigantic  races  of  past  generations 
quenched  their  thirst.  There  is  little  doubt,  that  they  are  caused  by 
running  waters,  which  find  their  way  in  the  lime  stone  cavities,  beneath 
the  upper  stratum  of  soil.  We  shall  see  elsewhere,  that  this  stratum 
generally  rests  on  a base  of  lime  stone ; and  that  between  this  and  the' 
sub-strata,  there  are  often  continuous  cavities,  as  we  see  in  the  lime 


GENERAL  SURFACE. 


27 

stone  caverns ; and  that  in  these  interstices  between  the  different  strata 
of  rocks,  brooks,  and  even  considerable  streams  pursue  uninterrupted 
courses  under  ground.  The  cause  of  these  sink  holes  was  probably  a 
fissure  in  the  super-stratum  of  lime  stone.  The  friable  soil  above  found 
its  way  through  this  fissure,  and  was  washed  away  by  the  running 
waters  beneath.  In  this  manner  a funnel  shaped  cavity  would  naturally 
be  formed.  In  fact,  the  ear  often  distinguishes  the  sound  of  waters  run- 
ning beneath,  at  the  bottom  of  these  sink  holes. 

The  remaining,  and  by  far  the  most  extensive  surface,  is  that  of  the 
prairies.  Although  they  have  no  inconsiderable  diversity  of  aspect,  they 
may  be  classed  under  three  general  divisions,*  the  healthy,  or  bushy,  the 
alluvial,  or  wet,  and  the  dry  prairies.  The  healthy  prairies  seem  to  be 
of  an  intermediate  character  between  the  alluvial  prairies  and  the 
barrens.  They  have  springs  covered  with  hazle  and  furzy  bushes,  small 
sassafras  shrubs,  with  frequent  grape  vines,  and  in  the  summer  with  an 
infinite  profusion  of  flowers,  and  the  bushes  are  often  overtopped  with 
the  common  hop  vine.  Prairies  of  this  description  are  very  common  in 
Indiana,  Illinois  and  Missouri,  and  they  alternate  among  the  other 
prairies  for  a considerable  distance  towards  the  Rocky  mountains. 

The  dry  prairies  are  for  the  most  part  destitute  of  springs,  and  of  all 
vegetation,  but  weeds,  flowering  plants,  and  grass.  To  the  eye  they  are 
so  nearly  level,  and  the  roundings  of  their  undulations,  so  gentle,  that 
the  eye,  taking  in  a great  surface  at  a single  view,  deems  them  a dead 
level.  But  the  ravines,  made  by  the  water  courses  through  them, 
sufficiently  indicate,  that  their  swells  and  declinations  communicate  a 
quick  motion  to  the  waters,  that  fall  on  them.  This  is  by  far  the  most 
extensive  class  of  prairies.  These  are  the  plains,  over  which  the  buffalos 
range.  These  are  the  plains,  without  wood  or  water,  in  which  the  trav- 
eller may  wander  for  days,  and  see  the  horizon  on  every  side  sinking  to 
contact  with  the  grass. 

The  alluvial,  or  wet  prairies  form  the  last  and  smallest  division.  They 
generally  occur  on  the  margins  of  the  great  water  courses,  although 
they  • are  often  found,  with  all  their  distinctive  features,  far  from  the 
point,  where  waters  now  run.  They  are  generally  basins,  as  regards  the 
adjacent  regions,  and  their  outlines  are  marked  by  regular  benches. 
They  are  for  the  most  part  of  a black,  deep,  and  very  friable  soil,  and  of 
exhaustless  fertility.  In  the  proper  latitudes,  they  are  the  best  soils  for 
wheat  and  maize ; but  are  ordinarily  too  tender  and  loamy  for  the  culti- 
vated grasses.  They  rear  their  own  native  grasses,  of  astonishing 
height  and  luxuriance.  An  exact  account  of  the  size  and  rankness  of 
the  weeds,  flowering  plants  and  grass  on  the  richer  alluvial  prairies  of 
Illinois  and  Missouri,  would  seem  to  those,  who  have  not  seen  them,  an 


28 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


idle  exaggeration.  Still  more  than  the  rolling  prairies,  they  impress  th© 
eye  as  a dead  level;  but  they  still  have  their  slight  inclinations  towards 
their  benches,  where  their  waters  are  arrested,  and  carried  off.  But, 
from  their  immense  amount  of  vegetation,  and  from  the  levelness  of  their 
surface,  wherever  they  are  considerably  extensive,  they  have  small  ponds, 
plashes  and  bayous,  which  fill  from  the  rivers,  and  from  rains,  and  are 
only  drained,  during  the  intense  heats  of  summer,  by  evaporation. 
These  ponds  in  the  alluvial  prairies,  that  are  connected  with  the  rivers, 
when  they  overflow  by  bayous  are  filled,  in  the  season  of  high  waters, 
with  fish  of  the  various  kinds.  As  the  waters  subside,  and  their  connec- 
ting courses  with  the  river  become  dry,  the  fish  are  taken  by  cart  loads 
among  the  tall  grass,  where  the  water  is  three  or  four  feet  deep.  When 
the  waters  evaporate,  during  the  heats  of  summer,  the  fish  die;  and 
although  thousands  of  buzzards  prey  upon  them,  they  become  a source 
of  pollution  to  the  atmosphere. — Hence  these  prairies,  beautiful  as  they 
seem  to  the  eye,  and  extraordinary  as  is  their  fertility,  are  very  unfavor- 
able positions,  in  point  of  salubrity.  Flocks  of  deer  are  seen  scouring 
across  these  rich  plains,  or  feeding  peaceably  with  the  domestic  cattle. 
In  the  spring  and  autumn,  innumerable  flocks  of  water  fowls  are  seen 
wheeling  their  flight  about  the  lakes  and  ponds  of  these  prairies.  They 
find  copious  pasture  in  the  oily  seeds  of  *the  plants  and  grasses,  that 
have  seeded  during  the  summer. 

During  the  months  of  vegetation,  no  adequate  idea  could  be  conveyed 
by  description  of  the  number,  forms,  varieties,  scents  and  hues  of  the 
flowering  plants,  and  the  various  flowers  of  the  richer  prairies.  In  the 
barrens  are  four  or  five  varieties  of  “ ladies  slippers,’  of  different  and 
the  most  splendid  colors.  The  violets,  and  the  humbler  and  more  mod- 
est kinds  of  garden  flowers,  are  not  capable  of  competing  with  the  rank 
growth  of  grass  and  weeds,  that  choke  them  on  the  surface.  Some  of  the 
taller  and  hardier  kinds  of  the  liliaceous  plants  struggle  for  display,  and 
rear  themselves  high  enough  to  be  seen.  Most  of  the  prairie  flowers 
have  tall  and  arrowy  stems,  and  spiked  or  tassellated  heads,  and  the 
flowers  have  great  size,  gaudiness  and  splendor,  without  much  fragrance 
or  delicacy.  The  most  striking  of  these  flowers  we  shall  attempt  to 
class  and  describe,  in  another  place;  only  remarking  here,  that  during 
the  summer,  the  prairies  present  distinct  successions  of  dominant  hues, 
as  the  season  advances.  The  prevalent  color  of  the  prairie  flowers  in 
spring  is  blueish  purple;  in  midsummer  red,  with  a considerable  propor- 
tion of  yellow.  In  autumn  the  flowers  are  very  large,  many  of  them  of 
the  helianthus  form,  and  the  prairie  receives  from  them  such  a splendid 
coloring  of  yellow,  as  almost  to  present  to  the  imagination  an  immense 
surface  of  gilding* 


MINERALS. 


w 


Minerals.  There  are  diffused  in  the  different  positions  of  this  valley 
the  common  proportions  of  minerals,  oxides,  neutral  salts,  fossils,  and  the 
different  kinds  of  earths.  Salt  springs,  as  we  shall  have  occasion  elsewhere 
to  remark,  are  found  in  a thousand  places,  in  all  proportions  of  saline 
impregnations,  from  water,  that  is  merely  brackish,  to  that,  which  is  much 
salter  than  sea  water.  It  is  obvious  to  remark,  the  wise  and  benevolent 
provision  of  Providence  for  the  population  of  the  country,  in  thus 
providing,  at  such  distances  from  the  sea,  an  article  so  essential  and 
indispensable  to  the  comfort  and  subsistence  of  civilized  man.  Hence  it 
results,  that  there  is  no  point  in  this  valley,  far  removed  from  the  means  of 
an  easy  and  cheap  supply  of  this  necessary  article.  The  cattle  have  dis- 
covered this  impregnation  in  innumerable  licks.  It  is  found  in  form  like  a 
hoar  frost,  in  £ Salt  prairie,’  between  the  Osage  and  the  Arkansas.  Arkan- 
sas and  Bed  river  are  at  times  perceptibly  brackish,  from  the  quality  of 
salt  in  solution  in  the  water.  Nitre  is  found  almost  pure,  and  is  lixiviated 
from  the  earths  in  the  lime  stone  caves,  that  abound  in  various  places. 
Muriate  of  magnesia,  or  Epsom  salts,  is  found  in  caves  in  Indiana. 
Sulphates  of  iron  and  alumine  are  found  in  greater  proportions,  than  in 
most  countries;  and  coperas  and  alum  might  be  among  the  manufactures 
of  this  region.  Carbonate  of  lime  abounds,  as  we  have  seen,  every 
where.  Sulphate  of  lime,  or  gypsum,  is  found  in  various  places.  We 
have  seen  most  beautiful  specimens,  striated  with  needles  in  stars,  and 
when  pulverized  and  prepared,  of  a snowy  whiteness, — said  to  have  been 
brought  from  the  Kansas  of  the  Missouri.  Quarries  of  gypsum  are 
affirmed  to  exist  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  in  Tennessee, 
and  in  various  other  places.  That  call  for  the  use  of  this  material, 
which  would  alone  lead  to  adequate  search  for  it,  has  not  yet  been 
heard.  It  has  not  been  required,  or  used  in  building,  or  the  arts  ; and 
such  is  the  Universal  fertility  of  the  soil,  that  it  will  be  long,before  it  will 
be  sought  after,  as  a manure.  But  that  time  will  come,  and  then,  in  this 
region  of  secondary  formation,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  that  a sufficiency 
of  this  article  will  be  discovered  for  all  the  necessities  of  the  country. 

On  the  waters  of  the  Little  Sioux  of  the  Missouri,  and  on  a branch  of 
the  St.  Peters  of  the  upper  Mississippi,  is  found  a beautiful  species  of 
indurated  clay, — constituting  a stone  of  the  most  singular  appearance, 
commonly  called  £ pipe  stone,’  from  the  circumstance,  that  the  savages 
in  all  these  regions,  quite  to  the  western  sea,  make  their  pipes,  and  some- 
times their  other  ornaments,  of  it.  It  is  said  to  be  cut  from  the  quarry, 
almost  with  the  ease  of  wood.  It  hardens  in  the  air,  and  receives  an 
exquisite  polish  of  impalpable  smoothness.  It  is  nearly  of  the  color  of 
blood ; and  is  a beautiful  article  for  monumental  slabs,  vases  and  require- 
ments of  that  sort.  If  it  be  as  abundant,  and  as  easily  procured,  as  has 


30 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


been  said,  it  will  one  day  become  an  article  of  extensive  use  through  the 
country.  For  although  marble  abounds,  this  is  a more  beautiful  material, 
than  any  marble  that  we  have  seen.  It  has  been  generally  asserted, 
that  an  imaginary  line  of  truce  extends  round  the  places,  where  this 
stone  is  found,  within  which  the  most  hostile  tribes  pursue  their  business 
of  cutting  out  stones  for  pipes  in  peace. 

We  have  seen  frequent  specimens  of  ores,  said  to  be  ores  of  cinabar. 
There  are,  unquestionably,  abundant  ores  of  copper  and  zinc.  Copper,  it 
is  known,  is  not  found  so  abundantly  on  the  shores  of  lake  Superior,  as  it 
was  anticipated  it  would  be.  A vast  number  of  specimens  of  copper  ore 
are  found  in  different  points  in  this  valley.  Specimens  of  pure  and  mal- 
leable copper  have  been  shown  to  us ; one  of  which,  said  to  have  been  found 
in  Illinois,  thirty  miles  east  of  St.  Louis,  weighed  three  pounds.  There  is 
a river  of  the  upper  Mississippi,  forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri, called  by  the  French, 6 Cuivre,’  or  Copper  river,  from  the  supposed 
mines  of  copper  on  its  banks.  Ores  of  copper  have  been  found  at  different 
points  on  the  Illinois.  Considerable  quantities  are  smelted  at  Galena, 
dug  with  the  ores  of  lead.  Iron  ore  is  abundant  in  too  many  places  to  be 
named.  Ores  of  antimony  and  manganese  are  occasionally  seen;  but  the 
progress  of  the  arts,  and  the  circumstances  of  the  country  not  having 
called  for  these  articles,  little  note  has  been  taken  of  the  discoveries. 
Hunters  and  travellers  have  asserted,  that  gold  dust  is  brought  down  to  the 
Missouri  by  its  upper  waters,  and  has  been  seen  on  the  sand  bars  at  low 
water.  Whether  it  be  so,  or  whether  the  shining  particles,  which  they 
undoubtedly  saw,  were  only  of  mica  or  talc,  is  not  known.  On  the  ranges 
of  the  Rocky  mountains,  continued  in  Mexico,  it  is  well  known  the  pre- 
cious metals  abound.  A great  many  mines  of  silver  are  wrought  on  the 
western  spurs  of  the  Masserne  mountains,  near  Santa  Fe.  It  is  natural  to 
infer,  that  the  same  ranges,  when  thoroughly  explored  on  the  eastern  side, 
in  the  vicinity  of  the  sources  of  the  Yellowtone,  Platte,  Arkansas  and  Red 
rivers,  will  be  also  found  to  have  their  mines  of  silver  and  gold.  It  is 
at  present  asserted,  that  a silver  mine  has  been  recently  discovered  in 
Indiana. 

The  only  mines,  that  are  yet  wrought  in  this  country,  to  any  extent  are 
those  of  iron  and  lead.  Near  Pittsburgh  and  on  the  Monongahela,  in 
Ohio,  Kentucky,  Tennessee  and  Missouri,  are  manufactories  of  iron  from 
native  ores  which  we  shall  notice,  when  we  speak  of  those  states.  Lead 
ore  is  found  in  different  points  of  this  valley  with  more  ease,  and  in  greater 
abundance,  perhaps,  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  world.  The  particular 
sections  of  country,  where  these  ores  are  dug  in  greatest  abundance,  are 
in  the  county  of  Washington  in  Missouri,  from  twenty  to  fifty  miles  west 
of  the  Mississippi,  on  the  waters  of  Big  Creek,  a river  of  the  Maramee; 


Climate. 


31 


near  Rock  liver,  at  Dubuque’s  mines,  in  the  state  of  Illinois;  and  at 
Riviere  du  feve,  improperly  called  Fever  river,  upon  the  upper  Missis- 
sippi. We  shall  naturally  speak  of  the  mines,  when  we  treat  of  the 
states,  in  which  they  are  found. 

Climate.  In  a country  of  such  immense  extent,  the  climate  must 
necessarily  be  various.  We  must,  of  course,  be  brief  on  so  copious  a 
head.  Between  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  and  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  there  is  every  variety  of  temperature,  from  that  of  the 
Arctic  regions,  to  that,  where  flourish  the  olive  and  the  sugar  cane.  We 
may,  perhaps,  obtain  conceptions  of  some  exactness,  by  inspecting  our 
thermometrical  tables  of  the  temperature  at  different  points  of  the  valley. 
We  have  resided  through  the  season  in  the  northern,  middle  and  southern 
regions  of  it.  We  are  confident,  as  a general  fact,  that  the  climate  more 
exactly  and  uniformly  corresponds  to  the  latitude,  than  that  of  any  other 
country.  The  amount  of  heat  and  cold,  or  the  mean  temperature  through 
the  year,  is  greater  or  less,  at  any  place,  according  as  its  position  is  more' 
Or  less  to  the  south.  In  ascending  the  Mississippi  from  New  Orleans  to 
to  St.  Louis,  or  Cincinnati,  in  the  spring,  we  take  a direction  generally 
north.  One  of  the  swifter  steam  boats  will  considerably  out-travel  the 
progress  of  spring ; and  from  the  region,  where  the  foliage  of  the  trees,  and 
vegetation  generally  have  unfolded  into  all  their  verdure,  we  find  the 
foliage  on  the  banks  of  the  river  gradually  diminishing,  as  we  ascend;- 
and  after  we  pass  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  we  shall  perhaps,  see  the  buds 
on  the  trees  but  just  beginning  to  swell.  In  descending  the  same  river 
in  the  autumn,  we  observe  this  influence  of  the  climate  reversed  in  a 
most  impressive  manner.  At  Pittsburgh  the  trees  are  stripped  of  their 
leaves  by  frost.  At  Cincinnati  nature  is  laying  on  the  last  mellow 
colors  of  autumn^  and  the  leaves  are  beginning  to  fall.  At  Natchez  the 
forests  are  still  in  the  verdure  of  summer.  We  have  noted  this  beauti- 
fully graduated  and  inverted  scale  of  the  seasons,  more  than  once,  in 
ascending  and  descending  these  rivers. 

It  is  very  obvious,  why  climate  in  this  valley  should  so  accurately  cor- 
respond to  latitude.  It  is  an  immense  basin,  spreading  from  north  to 
south.  There  are  no  ranges  of  mountains,  spread  across  the  valley  in  an 
eastern  and  western  direction,  to  change  the  current  or  temperature  of 
the  winds,  or  to  give  a material  difference  of  temperature  to  places,  situ- 
ated in  the  same  latitude.  Hence  it  is,  that  in  traversing  the  country  from 
south  to  north,  we  discover  the  diminution  of  temperature,  as  marked 
by  that  sensible  and  unerring  thermometer,  the  vegetable  creation,  very' 
accurately  indicating  the  latitude  of  the  place. 


32 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Mr.  Jefferson  has  supposed,  that  in  this  valley  the  temperature  is 
higher,  than  in  the  same  parallels  in  the  Atlantic  country.  Dr.  Drake 
and  others  have  successfully  combated  this  idea.  Mr.  Jefferson  asserts, 
that  the  reed  cane,  myegia  macrosperma , and  paroquets,  are  seen  farther 
north  on  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi,  than  on  the  Atlantic  shore.  If  it 
be  so,  the  inference,  drawn  from  these  facts,  might  easily  be  shown  to  be 
erroneous,  by  showing,  that  their  locality  along  these  streams  is  fixed  by 
other  circumstances,  than  temperature.  On  the  Tennessee,  the  cane, 
finding  a congenial  soil,  and  circumstances,  on  the  banks  of  a river  run- 
ning from  south  to  north,  will  spread  its  seeds  along  those  banks  to  a 
point  more  northern,  than  its  native  residence.  The  immense  numbers 
of  paroquets,  that  are  seen  on  the  lower  courses  of  the  Mississippi,  will 
naturally  push  their  colonies  far  to  the  north  on  that  river,  where  they 
still  find  all  circumstances,  but  temperature,  the  same ; where  there  are 
old,  large  and  hollow  sycamore  trees,  the  favorite  haunts  of  this  brilliant 
bird,  furnishing  it  at  once  food,  shelter  and  a home. 

These  regions,  sheltered  from  the  damp  and  cold  northeastern  gales  of 
the  Atlantic  shores  in  the  spring,  will  probably  have  that  season  milder 
and  more  forward,  than  in  the  corresponding  latitudes  of  the  Atlantic. 
But  in  such  a vast  basin,  inclining  from  north  to  south,  and  permeated 
in  its  whole  extent  by  such  a river,  as  the  Mssissippi,  an  atmosphere  of 
the  cold  air  of  the  elevated  regions  of  the  table  lands  at  its  sources  will 
naturally  be  set  in  motion  at  times  by  atmospheric  changes,  and  be  pro- 
pelled towards  the  south.  The  colder  air  will  often  rush  down  to 
supply  the  vacuum,  made  by  the  rarefaction  of  southern  temperature. 
Hence  north  and  south  winds, — in  other  words,  winds  up  and  down  this 
valley,  frequently  alternate,  and,  together  with  their  collateral  winds,  the 
northeast  and  southwest,  are  the  prevailing  winds  felt  in  the  valley. 
Southern  and  southwestern  gales  predominate  in  the  summer,  and  north- 
ern and  western  in  winter.  Hence  the  winter  is  much  more  changeable, 
than  that  of  the  Atlantic  country,  frequently  softening  even  in  its  north- 
ern parts,  from  weather,  in  which  the  mercury  stands  below  zero,  to 
weather  of  such  mildness,  as  to  invite  people  to  sit  at  the  open  windows 
in  January  and  February. 

In  the  medial  regions  of  this  country  the  winter  commences  about 
Christmas.  The  severest  weather  is  ordinarily  between  that  time  and 
the  second  week  in  February.  The  common  snows  are  from  two  to 
eight  inches  deep,  and  they  seldom  lie  many  days.  We  have,  however, 
seen  the  snow  at  New  Madrid,  near  36°  north,  lie  more  than  a fortnight. 
North  of  this  mean  region,  as  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  on  the  upper  Mississippi, 
and  the  Council  Bluffs,  on  the  Missouri,  that  is  to  say,  not  far  from  the 
climate  of  New  York  and  Albany,  the  snow  does  not  fall  as  deep,  as  at 


CLIMATE. 


33 


those  places  or  lie  so  long.  The  cold  sometimes  is  severe,  but  oftener 
intermits,  and  is  followed  by  mild,  and  even  warm  days. 

We  may  class  four  distinct  climates,  between  the  sources  and  the 
outlet  of  the  Mississippi.  The  first,  commencing  at  its  sources,  and  ter- 
minating at  Prairie  du  Chien,  corresponds  pretty  accurately  to  the 
climate  between  Montreal  and  Boston;  with  this  difference,  that  the 
amount  of  snow  falling  in  the  former  is  much  less,  than  in  the  latter 
region.  The  mean  temperature  of  a year  would  be  something  higher  on 
the  Mississippi.  The  vegetables  raised,  the  time  of  planting,  and  the 
modes  of  cultivating  them,  would,  probably,  be  nearly  the  same.  Vege- 
tation will  have  nearly  the  same  progress  and  periodical  changes.  The 
growing  of  gourd  seed  corn,  which  demands  an  increase  of  temperature 
over  that  requisite  for  the  corn  of  the  northern  states  to  bring  it  to  matu- 
rity, is  not  planted  in  this  region.  The  Irish  potatoe  is  raised  in  this 
climate  in  the  utmost  perfection.  Wheat  and  cultivated  grasses  succeed 
■well.  The  apple  and  the  pear  tree  require  fostering,  and  southern  expos- 
ure to  bring  fruit  in  perfection.  The  peach  tree  has  still  more  the  habits 
and  the  fragile  delicacy  of  a southern  stranger,  and  requires  a sheltered 
declivity,  with  a southern  exposure,  to  succeed  at  all.  Five  months  in  the 
year  may  be  said  to  belong  to  the  dominion  of  winter.  For  that  length  of 
time  the  cattle  require  shelter  in  the  severe  weather,  and  the  still  waters 
remain  frozen. 

The  next  climate  includes  the  opposite  states  of  Missouri  and  Illinois, 
in  their  whole  extent,  or  the  country  between  41°  and  37°.  Cattle, 
though  much  benefitted  by  sheltering,  and  often  needing  it,  seldom  receive 
it.  It  is  not  so  favorable  for  cultivated  grasses,  as  the  preceding  region. 
Gourd  seed  corn  is  the  only  kind  extensively  planted.  The  winter  com- 
mences with  January,  and  ends  with  the  second  week  in  February.  The 
ice,  in  the  still  waters,  after  that  time  thaws.  Wheat,  the  inhabitant  of  a 
variety  of  climates,  is  at  home,  as  a native,  in  this.  The  persimon  and 
the  pawpaw  are  found  in  its  whole  extent.  It  is  the  favored  region  of  the 
apple,  the  pear  and  the  peach  tree.  Snows  neither  fall  deep,  nor  lie  long. 
The  Irish  potatoe  succeeds  to  a certain  extent,  but  not  as  well,  as  in 
the  former  climate;  but  this  disadvantage  is  supplied  by  the  sweet  potatoe, 
which  though  not  at  home  in  this  climate,  with  a little  care  in  the  culti- 
vation, flourishes.  The  increased  temperature  of  March  and  April,  and 
the  subsequent  grandeur  of  vegetation  indicate  an  approach  towards  a 
southern  climate. 

The  next  climate  extends  from  37°  to  31.  Below  35°,  in  the  rich  allu- 
vial soils,  the  apple  tree  begins  to  fail  in  bringing  its  fruit  to  perfection. 
We  have  never  tasted  apples  worth  eating,  raised  much  below  New  Mad- 
rid. Cotton,  between  this  point  and  33°,  is  raised,  in  favorable  positions, 

5 


34 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


for  home  consumption ; but  is  seldom  to  be  depended  upon  for  a crop. 
Below  33°  commences  the  proper  climate  for  cotton,  and  it  is  the  staple 
article  of  cultivation.  Festoons  of  long  moss  hang  from  the  trees,  and 
darken  the  forests.  The  palmetto  gives  to  the  low  alluvial  grounds  a 
grand  and  striking  verdure.  The  muscadine  grape,  strongly  designating 
climate,  is  first  found  here. — Laurel  trees  become  common  in  the  forest, 
retaining  their  foliage  and  their  verdure  through  the  winter.  Wheat  is  no 
longer  seen,  as  an  article  of  cultivation.  The  fig  tree  brings  its  fruit  to 
full  maturity. 

Below  this  climate,  to  the  gulf,  is  the  region  of  the  sugar  cane  and  the 
sweet  orange  tree.  It  would  be,  if  it  were  cultivated,  the  region  of  the 
olive.  Snow  is  no  longer  seen  to  fall,  except  a few  flakes  in  the  coldest 
storms.  The  streams  are  never  frozen.  Winter  is  only  marked  by  nights 
of  white  frosts,  and  days  of  northwest  winds,  which  seldom  last  longer 
than  three  days  in  succession,  and  are  followed  by  south  winds  and  warm 
days.  The  trees  are  generally  in  leaf  by  the  middle  of  February,  and 
always  by  the  first  of  March,  Bats  are  hovering  in  the  air  during  the 
night.  Fireflies  are  seen  by  the  middle  of  February.  Early  in  March 
the  forests  are  in  blossom.  The  delightful  white  flowers  of  the  cornus 
florida , and  the  brilliant  red  tufts  of  the  Bedbud,  or  cercis  canadensis , 
are  unfolded.  The  margins  of  the  creeks  and  streams  are  perfumed 
with  the  meadow  pink,  or  honeysuckle,  yellow  jessamine,  and  other  fra- 
grant flowers.  During  almost  every  night  a thunder  storm  occurs. 
Cotton  and  corn  are  planted  from  March  to  July.  In  these  regions  the 
summers  are  uniformly  hot,  although  there  are  days,  when  the  mercury 
rises  as  high  in  New  England,  as  in  Louisiana.  The  heat,  however, 
is  more  uniform  and  sustained,  commences  much  earlier,  and  contin- 
ues later.  From  February  to  September,  thunder  storms  .are  com- 
mon, often  accompanied  with  severe  thunder,  and  sometimes  with 
gales,  or  tornadoes,  in  which  the  trees  of  the  forest  are  prostrated  in 
every  direction,  and  the  tract  of  country,  which  is  covered  with  these 
fallen  trees,  is  called  a ‘ hurricane.’  The  depressing  influence  of  the 
summer  heat  results  from  its  long  continuance,  and  equable  and  unre- 
mitting tenor,  rather  than  from  the  intensity  of  its  ardor  at  any  given 
time.  It  must,  however,  be  admitted,  that  at  all  times  the  unclouded 
radiance  of  the  vertical  sun  of  this  climate  is  extremely  oppressive. 
Such  are  the  summers  and  autumns  of  the  southern  division  of  this  valley. 

The  winters,  in  the  whole  extent  of  the  country,  are  variable,  passing 
rapidly  from  warm  to  cold,  and  the  reverse.  Near  the  Mississippi,  and 
where  there  is  little  to  vary  the  general  direction  of  the  winds,  they  ordi- 
narily blow  three  or  four  days  from  the  north.  In  the  northern  and  middle 
regions,  the  consequence  is  cold  weather,  frost,  more  or  less  severe,  and 


DISEASES. 


35 


perhaps  storm,  with  snow  and  sleet.  During  these  days  the  rivers  are 
covered  with  ice.  The  opposite  breeze  alternates.  There  is  immedi- 
ately a bland  and  relaxing  feeling  in  the  atmosphere.  It  becomes  warm; 
and  the  red-birds  sing  in  these  days,  in  January  and  February,  as  far 
north  as  Prairie  du  Chien.  These  abrupt  and  frequent'  transitions  can 
hardly  fail  to  have  an  unfavorable  influence  upon  health.  From  40°  to 
36°  the  rivers  almost  invariably  freeze,  for  a longer  or  shorter  period, 
through  the  winter.  At  St.  Louis  on  the  Mississippi,  and  at  Cincin- 
nati on  the  Ohio,  in  nearly  the  same  parallels,  between  38°  and  39°, 
the  two  rivers  are  sometimes  capable  of  being  crossed  on  the  ice  for  eight 
weeks  together. 

Although  the  summers  over  all  this  valley  must  be  admitted  to  be 
hot,  yet  the  exemption  of  the  country  from  mountains  and  impediments 
to  the  free  course  of  the  winds,  and  the  circumstance,  that  the  greater 
proportion  of  the  country  has  a surface  bare  of  forests,  and,  probably, 
other  unexplained  atmospheric  agents,  concur  to  create,  during  the  sul- 
try months,  almost  a constant  breeze.  It  thence  happens,  that  the  air 
on  these  wide  prairies  is  rendered  fresh,  and  the  heats  are  tempered,  in 
the  same  manner,  as  is  felt  on  the  ocean. 

There  is  a circumstance,  pertaining  to  vegetation  in  the  middle  and 
southern  regions  of  this  country,  that  we  have  not  seen  noticed  by  other 
writers,  but  which  we  have  often  remarked  with  surprise;  and  it  is,  that 
the  same  degree  of  heat  in  the  spring  does  not  advance  vegetation  as 
rapidly,  as  at  the  north.  We  have  seen  a brilliant  sun,  and  felt  the  las- 
situde of  the  warm  spring  days  continued  in  succession,  and  yet  have 
remarked  the  buds  to  remain  apparently  stationary,  and  the  develope- 
ment  of  vegetation  almost  imperceptible.  The  same  amount  of  heat  at 
Quebec  would  have  completely  unfolded  the  foliage,  and  clothed  the 
earth  with  verdure.* 

Diseases.  A satisfactory  account  of  the  diseases  of  this  valley  would 
occupy  more  space,  than  we  have  to  bestow  upon  the  subject,  and  could 
only  be  expected  in  treatises,  professedly  devoted  to  medicine.  General 
remarks  upon  the  subject  can  only  be  expected  here.  In  such  a variety 
of  climates  and  exposures — in  a country  alternately  covered  in  one  point 
with  the  thickest  forests,  and  in  another  spreading  out  into  grassy 
plains — in  one  section  having  a very  dry,  and  in  another  a very  humid 
atmosphere — and  having  every  degree  of  temperature,  from  that  of  the 
. Arctic  regions,  to  that  of  the  West  Indies,  there  must  necessarily  be 
generated  all  the  forms  and  varieties  of  disease,  that  spring  simply  from 
climate.  Emigrants  from  the  Atlantic  country  will  always  find  it  un- 


* For  table  of  climate  see  appendix,  table  No.  1. 


36 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


safe,  to  select  their  residence  near*  stagnant  waters  and  creeping  bayous, 
on  the  rich  and  heavy  timbered  alluvions.  Yet  these,  from  their  fertility, 
and  the  ease,  with  which  they  are  brought  into  cultivation,  are  the  points 
most  frequently  selected.  The  rich  plains  of  the  Scioto  were  the  graves  of 
the  first  settlers.  They  have  long  since  been  brought  into  cultivation, 
and  have  lost  their  character  for  insalubrity.  A thousand  places  in  the 
West,  which  were  selected  as  residences  by  the  first  immigrants,  on 
account  of  their  fertility,  and  which  were  at  first  regarded  as  haunts  of 
disease  and  mortality,  have  now  a character  for  salubrity. 

On  the  lower  courses  of  the  Ohio,  the  Wabash,  the  Tennessee,  the 
Mississippi,  and  its  southern  tributaries,— in  short,  wherever  the  bottoms 
are  wide,  the  forests  deep,  the  surface  level,  and  sloping  back  from  the 
river,  the  vegetation  rank — wherever  the  rivers  overflow,  and  leave  stag- 
nant waters,  that  are  only  carried  off  by  evaporation— wherever  there  are 
ponds  and  lagoons  in  the  bottoms,  to  catch  and  retain  the  rains  and  the 
overflow,  it  may  be  assumed,  as  a general  maxim,  that  such  positions 
will  be  unhealthy,-  and  more  or  less  so,  as  more  or  less  of  these  circum- 
stances concur.  Wherever  these  causes  of  disease  exist,  there  is  no 
part  of  this  valley,  which  has  not  a summer  of  sufficient  heat  and  duration, 
to  quicken  these  causes  into  fatal  action. 

The  very  rich  and  extensive  alluvial  prairies  of  the  upper  Mississippi, 
and  of  the  Illinois,  which  are  covered  with  a prodigious  growth  of  grass 
and  weeds,  generally  contain  marshy  basins,  small  lakes  and  plashes, 
where  the  water  from  the  bluffs  and  the  high  lands  is  caught  and  retained. 
They  will  ordinarily  prove  unhealthy,— some  think,  more  so,  than  the 
timbered  country, — until  these  reservoirs  of  stagnant  waters  are  all 
drained,  and  the  surplus  vegetation  is  burned  off,  or  otherwise  removed 
by  the  progress  of  vegetation.  These  places  strike  the  eye  delightfully, 
and  their  openness,  and  exposure  to  be  swept  by  the  winds,  seem  to  pre- 
clude them  from  the  chance  of  sickliness.  Their  extraordinary  fertility, 
and  their  being  at  once  ready  for  the  plough,  hold  out  allurements  to 
immigrants.  But  there  appears  to  be  in  the  great  plan  of  Providence  a 
scale,  in  which  the.  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  human  condition 
are  balanced. — Where  the  lands  are  extremely  fertile,  it  seems  to  be 
appended  to  them,  as  a drawback  to  that  advantage,  that  they  are  gener- 
ally sickly. 

Immigrants  have  scarcely  ever  paused  long  enough,  or  taken  sufficient 
elements  into  the  calculation,  in  selecting  their  residence,  with  a view  to 
its  salubrity.  When  the  choice  is  to  be  made,  they  are  often  encumbered 
with  families,  and  generally  feel  stinted  both  in  time  and  money,  and  are 
in  a hurry  to  commence  operations  for  the  provision  of  their  families. 
They  are  apt  to  give  too  little  weight  to  the  most  important  motive  of 


DISEASES. 


37 


ail,  which  ought  to  determine  their  election.  A deep  bottom,  a fertile 
soil,  a position  on  the  margin  of  a boatable  or  navigable  stream ; these 
are  apt  to  be  the  determining  elements  of  their  choice.  The  heavy 
forest  is  levelled.  A thousand  trees  moulder,  about  the  cabin.  The 
stagnant  waters,  that,  while  shielded  from  the  action  of  the  sun  by  the 
forest,  had  remained  comparatively  innoxious,  exposed  now  to  the 
burning  rays  of  the  sun,  and  rendered  more  deleterious  by  being  filled 
with  trunks  and  branches  of  decaying  trees,  and  all  kinds  of  putrid  vege- 
tation, become  laboratories  of  miasm,  and  emit  on  every  side,  the  seeds 
of  disease. — When  we  know,  that  such  have  been  precisely  the  circum- 
stances, in  which  a great  portion  of  the  immigrants  to  the  western 
country  have  fixed  themselves  in  open  cabins,  that  drink  in  the  humid 
atmosphere  of  the  night,  through  a hundred  crevices,  in  a new  and  untried 
climate,  under  a higher  temperature,  under  the  influence  of  new  diet 
and  regimen,  and,  perhaps,  under  the  depressing  fatigue  of  severe  labor 
and  exposure ; need  we  wonder,  that  the  country  has  acquired  a general 
character  of  unhealthiness  ? 

There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  in  the  southern  and  middle  regions  of 
of  this  valley,  the  wide,  level  and  heavy  timbered  alluvions  are  intrinsic- 
ally more  or  less  unhealthy.  It  cannot  be  disguised,  that  in  these 
situations,  the  new  resident  is  subject  to  bilious  complaints,  to  remit- 
ting fevers,  and  more  than  all,  to  intermitting  fever,  or  fever  and  ague. 
This  complaint  is  the  general  scourge  of  the  valley. 

It  is  an  undoubted  fact,  explained  in  different  ways,  and  by  different 
theories,  by  the  people,  that  even  in  the  most  unfavorable  positions  on 
the  lower  waters  of  the  Ohio,  or  even  the  bayous  of  Arkansas,  or  Red 
river,  the  immigrant  is  not  so  much  exposed,  while  his  cabin  is  still 
under  the  shade  of  the  unbroken  forest.  The  most  dangerous  period 
is,  after  the  trees  have  been  levelled  a year  or  two,  and  while  they  are 
still  decaying  about  the  dwelling.  This  well  known  fact  would  seem 
to  give  plausibility  to  the  doctrine,  that  these  deep  and  grand  forests 
feed  their  foliage  with  an  atmosphere,  that  is  adverse  to  the  life  of  man ; 
and  that  when  the  forests  are  cleared  away,  the  miasm,  the  noxious  air, 
that  used  to  be  absorbed  and  devoured  by  the  redundant  vegetation  and 
foliage  of  the  forests,  and  incorporated  with  its  growth,  thus  detached 
and  disengaged,  inhaled  by  the  new  residents,  becomes  a source  of  disease. 

Another  fact,  in  relation  to  the  choice  of  a residence  with  a view  to 
its  salubrity,  has  been  abundantly  and  unanswerably  proved  by  experi- 
ence. It  is,  that  bluffs  on  the  margins  of  wide  bottoms  and  alluvial  prairies 
are  more  unhealthy  situations,  than  those,  in  the  bottom  or  prairie,  which 
they  overlook.  This  fact  has  been  amply  demonstrated  on  the  Ohio 
bottoms  and  bluffs,  on  the  margins  of  the  alluvial  prairies  of  the  upper 


38 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Mississippi,  and,  in  short,  wherever  a high  bluff  overlooks  a wide  bottom. 
The  inhabitants  on  the  airy  and  beautiful  bluffs  that  bound  the  noble 
prairies  of  the  upper  Mississippi,  in  an  atmosphere,  apparently  so  pure, 
as  to  preclude  all  causes  of  disease,  are  far  more  subject  to  fever 
and  ague,  than  the  people  that  inhabit  below  them  on  the  level  of  the 
prairies.  The  same  has  been  remarked  of  the  Chickasaw  bluffs,  fort 
Pickering,  or  Memphis,  fort  Adams,  Natchez,  Baton  Rouge,  and  the 
bluffs,  generally,  along  the  great  water  courses.  Yet,  though  such  is  the 
uniform  teaching  of  experience,  so  deceptive  is  the  salubrious  aspect  of 
these  airy  hills,  that  swell  above  the  dun  and  murky  air,  that  seems  to 
lie,  like  a mist  over  the  wide  bottoms  below  them,  that  most  people,  in 
choosing  their  residence  will  be  guided  by  their  senses,  in  opposition  to 
their  experience.  We  know  not,  whether  the  theory,  by  which  this  fact 
is  explained,  is  a sound  one  or  not.  It  is  said  that  the  miasm,  or  noxious 
air  from  putrid  vegetation,  and  stagnant  water  in  the  swamps  and 
bottoms,  is  specifically  lighter,  than  atmospheric  air;  that,  of  course,  it 
rises  from  the  plains,  and  hovers  over  the  summits  of  the  bluffs,  here 
finding  its  level  of  specific  gravity  ; and  that,  were  it  colored,  it  would  be 
seen  overlaying  the  purer  strata  of  air  beneath  it. 

The  slopes  of  the  Alleghanies,  the  interior  of  Ohio  and  Kentucky,  of 
Tennessee  and  Indiana,  where  the  forest  is  cleared  away,  and  the  land 
has  been  for  a sufficient  time  under  cultivation,  is  sufficiently  remote 
from  stagnant  waters — the  high  prairies  of  Illinois  and  Missouri — the 
dry  pine  woods  of  the  lower  and  southern  country — parts  of  the  plains 
of  Opelousas  and  Attakapas — considerable  portions  of  Alabama  and 
Mississippi — and,  generally,  the  open  country  towards  the  Rocky  moun- 
tains, may  be  considered  as  healthy,  as  any  other  country.  As  a general 
remark,  the  inhabitants  of  this  valley  are  more  subject  to  bilious  com- 
plaints, than  those  of  the  northern  and  middle  Atlantic  states;  but, 
probably,  not  as  much  so,  as  those  on  the  sea  board  of  the  southern 
Atlantic  states. — Bilious  symptoms,  especially  in  the  southern  regions, 
are  apt  to  be  combined  with  all  forms  of  disease.  Intermitting  fevers  are 
common  through  all  the  country,  as  they  were  even  in  New  England,  in 
the  earlier  stages  of  its  settlement,  and  while  it  was  still  covered  with 
forests.  It  is  seldom  a severe  disease;  and  in  most  instances  readily 
yields  to  the  universally  established  modes  of  treatment,  by  previous 
evacuations,  and  bark.  Sometimes  it  becomes  complicated  with  other 
diseases,  and  assumes  a strongly  bilious  type ; and  it  is  then  a formidable 
disease ; It  is  a well  known  symptom  of  this  disorder,  that  it  recurs  at 
regular  intervals.  When  the  links  of  the  associated  chain  of  disease  are 
formed,  if  the  disorder  be  cured,  it  is  apt  to  recur  again.  All  indisposi- 
tion is  apt  to  take  this  form ; and  it  has  this  advantage  in  security  against 


DISEASES. 


39 


other  diseases,  that  when  a person  has  been  for  a considerable  time  sub- 
ject to  ague,  whatever  form  of  disease  may  happen  to  assail  him,  it  ulti- 
mately runs  into  the  form  of  ague.  But  these  agues,  when  often  repeated, 
and  long  continued,  gradually  sap  the  constitution,  and  break  down  the 
powers  of  life.  The  person  becomes  enfeebled  and  dropsical.  Maras- 
mus, or  what  is  called  4 cachexy,’  ensues.  A very  common  result  is, 
that  enlargement  of  the  spleen,  vulgarly  called  1 an  ague  cake,’  This 
form  of  disease  is  most  perceptible  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  valley. 

In  the  summer  and  autumnal  months  bilious  fevers  are  apt  to  prevail, 
probably  to  a greater  extent,  than  in  the  Atlantic  country.  But  it  is  be- 
lieved, they  more  generally  assume  the  remittent  or  intermittent  form  ; 
that  they  are  not  so  frequently  attended  with  inflammatory  symptoms,  and 
that  they  more  readily  yield  to  medicine.  The  continued  bilious  fever 
of  this  country,  as  in  other  countries,  is  always  a formidable  disease.  In 
the  lower  and  southern  country,  in  the  heats  of  summer  and  autumn, 
when  it  prevails  in  towns  and  compact  villages,  it  often  assumes  a 
malignant  type.  Prevention  here,  as  elsewhere,  is  found  to  be  better, 
than  remedy;  and  avoidance  of  exposure  to  night  air,  to  rains,  and  the 
direct  and  continued  influence  of  the  sun,  and  strict  temperance  in  eating 
and  drinking,  would  no  doubt,  prevent  many  of  these  terrible  diseases. 
Persons,  especially,  who  are  passing  through  the  process  of  acclimation, 
ought  not  only  to  adopt  this  plan,  but  occasionally  to  take  cathartics  fol- 
lowed by  the  use  of  bark. — The  grand  remedies  of  the  western  country,  it 
is  well  known  are  calomel  and  bark.  We  have  no  doubt,  that  the  great 
quantities  of  calomel,  that  are  administered,  equally  by  quacks  and  regu- 
lar physicians,  in  adherence  to  a system,  that  has  grown  into  a fashion,  and 
which  level  all  skill  to  the  mechanical  application  of  a certain  number  of 
grains  of  that  medicine,  will  eventually  yield  to  a more  discriminating 
mode  of  practice.  The  present  course  of  procedure  is  too  often  ruinous 
to  the  teeth,  and  even  when  the  patient  is  cured,  must  tend  to  sap  and 
break  down  the  powers  of  life. 

From  the  variable  character  of  the  winters,  and  from  other  causes, 
rheumatism  is  a common  complaint.  Severe  colds  and  pneumonic 
affections  are  apt  to  prevail  in  the  winter.  There  is  but  too  much  propriety 
in  calling  the  two  first  months  of  autumn,  in  many  places  in  the  south, 
‘the  sickly  months.’  But,  as  if  to  compensate  for  the  prevalence  of 
bilious  affections,  and  the  fever  and  ague,  pulmonic  consumption  is  a 
very  uncommon  disease,  not  often  witnessed  even  in  the  northern  regions 
of  the  country.  Fifty  persons  fall  victims  to  this  terrible  destroyer  in  the 
Atlantic  country,  to  one,  that  dies  of  it  here. 

It  is  a very  trite,  but  true  and  important  remark,  that  in  proportion  as 
the  country  becomes  opened,  cultivated  and  peopled,  in  proportion  as  the 


40 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


redundance  and  rankness  of  natural  vegetation  is  replaced  by  that  of 
• cultivation,  the  country  becomes  more  healthy.  We  shall  naturally  re- 
mark again  on  the  peculiar  features  of  disease,  in  particular  sections  of 
the  country,  when  we  treat  of  those  sections.  We  shall  only  add  in  this 
place,  that  in  the  southern  regions  of  this  valley,  the  inhabitants  are  sub- 
ject to  a common  and  troublesome  affection,  called  the  ‘ bowel  complaint.’ 
It  is  particularly  fatal  to  children.  When  it  is  prolonged  to  a chronic 
diarrhoea,  it  is  sometimes  fatal  to  adults.  It  is  a very  different  complaint 
from  that  disorder  which  sometimes  prevails  in  the  Atlantic  country,  as  a 
sweeping  epidemic — the  dysentery.  The  latter  is  an  uncommon  disorder 
in  this  region. 

Trees  and  Shrubs.  It  will  not  be  expected,  that  we  shall  dwell  on 
this  subject,  in  relation  to  this  country,  as  professed  naturalists.  We 
propose  only  to  take  popular  views  of  the  subject,  which,  after  all,  we 
suspect,  are  best  understood,  most  interesting,  and  most  useful.  We  re- 
fer those,  who  wish  to  take  more  detailed  and  scientific  views  of  this 
subject,  to  the  writings  of  Bartram,  Bradbury,  Pursh,  Michaux  and  Nuttal. 
The  following  is  believed  to  be  a tolerably  ample  and  exact  enumeration 
of  the  trees  and  shrubs,  that  are  common  to  the  Mississippi  valley.  The 
divisions  of  them  according  to  climate  will  occur  in  the  account  of  the 
regions,  where  they  are  found. 

In  forming  this  catalogue,  we  have  had  to  encounter  the  common 
difficulty  of  selecting  the  Linncean  names  from  conflicting  authorities. 
It  belongs  to  the  foppery  of  the  easy  assumption  of  science  in  botany, 
as  in  geology,  that  different  authors  either  create,  or  adopt  different 
nomenclatures,  as  suits  their  fancy.  We  would  prefer  that  nomeuclature 
by  which  the  trees  and  shrubs  have  been  longest  known.  It  may  be, 
that  there  are  trees  and  shrubs  known  in  this  valley,  which  are  not  in- 
cluded here.  But  it  is  believed,  that  few,  if  any,  that  are  well  or 
familiarly  known,  are  omitted.* 

As  respects  the  divisions  of  these  trees,  that  belong  to  particular 
climates,  we  may  remark,  that  most  of  the  oaksnnd  hickories,  and  the 
cotton  wood,  are  common  to  all  the  climates.  The  white,  or  Norwegian 
pine,  is  only  found  in  the  north,  northwestern  and  northeastern  regions. 
The  cypress  is  not  often  found  north  of  36°.  The  long  leaved  pitch 
pine,  and  the  laurel  magnolia,  are  not  often  seen  north  of  33°.  The 
live  oak  seldom  extends  north  of  31°. 

On  the  Alleghany,  on  the  waters  of  the  upper  Mississippi,  between 
Bock  river  and  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  in  some  places  on  the  Illinois, 
the  Weymouth,  or  Norwegian  pine — -the  white  pine  of  New  England — is 

* For  table  of  trees,  plants,  &c.  see  Appendix,  table  No»  II, 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS, 


41 


found  in  all  its  beauty  and  perfection.  It  no  where  has  a larger  and  taller 
shaft,  or  a more  beautiful  verdure  of  foliage,  than  on  the  Alleghany;  and  it 
is  from  the  banks  of  this  distant  stream,  and  from  its  waters  in  the  state 
of  New  York,  that  New  Orleans  is  supplied  with  white  pine  plank  of 
the  greatest  clearness  and  beauty.  On  the  Gasconade,  the  Osage,  and 
the  southern  rivers  of  the  Missouri,  in  the  mine  country  in  Missouri, 
and  from  that  point,  to  the  upper  waters  of  White  river,  and  across  to 
the  Arkansas,  the  common  short  leaved  pitch  pine  is  abundant.  It  is 
tall,  straight,  and  of  a fine  size  for  the  saw  mill. 

The  cypress  begins  to  be  seen  on  the  swampy  and  overflowed  lands, 
near  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It  is,  along  with  the  swamp  gum,  the  most 
common  tree  in  the  deep  swamps  from  that  point  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 
It  is  in  every  respect  a striking  and  singular  tree.  Under  its  deep  shado 
arise  a hundred  curiously  shaped  knobs,  called  ‘ cypress  knees.’  They 
are  regular,  cone  shaped  protuberances,  of  different  heights  and  circum- 
ferences, not  unlike  tall  and  taper  circular  bee  hives.  We  have  often 
remarked  a very  small  cypress  sprig,  that  had  started  from  the  apex  of 
one  of  these  cypress  knees ; and  we  believe,  that  it  will  ultimately  bo 
found,  that  each  one  of  the  knees  is  the  natural  matrix  of  the  tree.  The 
tree  itself  always  has  a buttress,  which  has  the  exact  appearance  of  an 
enlarged  cypress  knee. 

The  noble  trees  rear  their  straight  columns  from  a large,  cone  shaped 
buttress,  whose  circumference  at  the  ground  is,  perhaps,  three  times 
that  of  the  regular  shaft  of  the  tree.  This  cone  rises  from  six  to  ten  feet, 
with  a regular  and  sharp  taper,  and  from  the  apex  of  the  cone  towers 
the  perpendicular  column,  with  little  taper,  after  it  has  left  the  cone, 
from  sixty  to  eighty  feet  clear  shaft.  Very  near  its  top,  it  begins  to 
throw  out  multitudes  of  horizontal  branches,  which  interlace  with  those 
of  the  adjoining  trees,  and  when  bare  of  leaves,  have  an  air  of  desolation 
and  death,  more  easily  felt  than  described.  In  the  season  of  vegetation, 
the  leaves  are  short,  fine,  and  of  a verdure  so  deep,  as  almost  to  seem 
brown,  giving  an  indescribable  air  of  funereal  solemnity  to  this  singular 
tree.  A cypress  forest,  when  viewed  from  the  adjacent  hills,  with  its  num- 
berless interlaced  arms,  covered  with  this  dark  brown  foliage,  has  the 
aspect  of  a scaffolding  of  verdure  in  the  air.  It  grows,  too,  in  deep  and 
sickly  swamps,  the  haunts  of  fever,  musquitos,  moccasin  snakes,  alliga- 
tors, and  all  loathsome  and  ferocious  animals,  that  congregate  far  from 
the  abodes  of  man,  and  seem  to  make  common  cause  with  nature  against 
him.  The  cypress  loves  the  deepest,  most  gloomy,  inaccessible  and  in- 
undated swamps;  and  south  of  33°,  is  generally  found  covered  with  the 
sable  festoons  of  long  moss,  hanging,  as  it  seems,  a shroud  of  mourning 
wreaths  almost  to  the  ground.  It  seems  to  flourish  best,  where  water 

6 


42 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


covers  its  roots  for  half  the  year.  When  it  rises  from  eight  or  ten  feet? 
water  of  the  overflow  of  rivers,  the  apex  of  its  buttress  is  just  on  a level 
with  the  surface  of  the  water.  It  is  then,  in  many  places,  that  they  cut 
it.  The  negroes  surround  the  tree  in  periogues  and  thus  get  at  the 
trunk  above  the  huge  and  hard  buttress,  and  fall  it  with  comparative  ease.- 
They  cut  off  the  strait  shaft,  as  suits  their  purpose,  and  float  it  to  the  raft, 
or  the  nearest  high  grounds.  Unpromising,  as  are  the  places  and  the 
circumstances  of  its  growth,  no  tree  of  the  country,  where  it  is  found, 
is  so  extensively  useful.  It  is  free  from  knots,  is  easily  wrought,  and 
makes  excellent  planks,  shingles,  and  timber  of  all  sorts.  It  is  very" 
durable,  and  incomparably  the  most  valuable  tree  in  the  southern 
country  of  this  valley.  It  is  a fortunate  circumstance,  that  it  inhabits 
the  most  gloomy  and  inaccessible  regions,  which  will  not  come  into  cul- 
tivation for  ages.  It  will  of  course  have  a better  chance,  not  to  share  the 
fate  of  the  most  useful  timber  on  the  valuable  uplands.  The  improvi- 
dent axe  soon  renders  timber  difficult  to  be  procured,  in  a country  in  the 
centre  of  forests.  All  the  cypress  forests,  however,  that  are  easily  acces- 
sible, on  the  lower  Mississippi,  and  its  tributaries,  have  been  stripped  of 
their  timber  by  the  Mississippi  lumberers,  who  have  floated  to  New  Or- 
leans millions  of  feet  of  this  timber,  from  the  lands  of  the  United  States, 
and  who  have  already  created  a scarcity  of  this  species  on  the  margin  of 
the  Mississippi.  There  are,  however,  in  the  vast  swamps  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, Arkansas,  Red  river,  and  Florida,  inexhaustible  supplies  of  cypress 
still  remaining. 

The  next  most  useful  tree  of  this  region  are  the  oaks  of  which  there' 
are  enumerated  in  this  valley  twelve  varieties,*  and  there  are,  probablyr 
more  than  that  number.  The  most  important  of  these  is  the  upland  white 
oak.  It  is  a larger  and  handsomer  tree,  than  in  the  Atlantic  country;, 
but  is  less  firm,  hard  and  durable.  The  same  may  be  said  of  the  swamp 
white  oak,  quercus  aquatica , which  grows  of  a prodigious  height,  size  and 
beauty.  There  is  the  black  oak,  with  large  and  small  leaves;  the  yellow 
oak,  and  the  post  oak,  growing  on  cold,  level,  wet  and  clayey  lands.  It 
receives  its  name  from  the  durability  of  posts  made  of  it  in  the  ground 
It  is  said  to  be  the  most  durable  timber  of  the  oak  kind  in  the  upper 
country,  for  boat  and  ship  building.  The  overcup  oak  receives  its  vul- 
gar name  from  the  size  of  the  cups  of  its  acorns.  The  Spanish,  willow, 
red  and  black  oaks,  have  nothing  particular  to  distinguish  them.  The 
black-jack  is  a scrubby  and  small  kind  of  oak,  growing  on  plashy,  and 
cold,  level  lands. 

South  of  31°,  in  the  lower  country  along  the  coast  of  Florida,  extend- 
ing into  the  interior  from  sixty  to  a hundred  miles,  and  along  the  shore 
of  Louisiana,  for  half  that  depth,  is  the  region  of  the  live  oak,  querctis 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


43 


®empervirens.  It  is  not  a tall,  but  a spreading  tree,  with  long  lateral 
branches,  looking,  at  a distance,  like  an  immense  spread  umbrella.  It 
is  a tree,  extremely  hard,  compact,  and  difficult  to  cut^  and  when  green, 
is  so  heavy,  as  to  sink  in  the  water.  It  is  almost  incorruptible.  The 
islands  on  the  shore  of  the  gulf  furnish  this  tree  in  abundance.  It  is 
so  difficult  to  cut  down,  to  burn,  or  otherwise  clear  from  the  soil,  that 
in  those  islands,  which  have  recently  begun  to  be  in  request,  as  sugar 
lands,  this  tree,  elsewhere  considered  so  valuable  for  ship  timber,  is 
regarded  as  an  incumbrance.  It  is,  valuable  for  its  acorns,  affording  the 
finest  range  for  swine.  The  value  of  this  timber  in  ship  building  is 
well  known. 

There  are  enumerated  in  this  country  ten  or  twelve  varieties  of  the 
hickory.  More  than  half  of  these  we  have  not  seen  in  the  Atlantic 
country.  One  of  these  varieties,  juglans  amara , vel  porcina , pignut 
hickory,  is  loaded  with  a nut,  whose  shell  is  softer,  than  an  acorn,  and  the 
meat  to  the  pressure  of  the  fingers  yields  a copious  oil,  of  use  in  the  finer 
kinds  of  painting.  It  is  acrid,  and  bitter  to  the  taste. 

The  large  walnut  is  a fruit  of  the  size  of  a considerable  apple,  and  is 
common  in  the  middle  regions  of  the  valley. 

The  peccan  is  found  far  up  the  Mississippi  and  Illinois,  and  thence  to 
the  gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  a tree  of  beautiful  form  and  appearance,  and 
the  most  useful  of  the  whole  class,  except  black  walnut,  for  building  and 
for  rails.  Its  nut  is  long,  cylindrical,  and  olive  shaped,  with  a shell  com- 
paratively soft.  The  meat  lies  in  two  oblong  lobes,  is  easily  taken  out 
entire,  and  excels  ail  other  nuts  in  delicacy  of  flavour.  Unfortunately 
it  soon  becomes  rancid,  and  is  seldom  carried  to  the  Atlantic  country,  in 
its  original  perfection. 

Black  locust,  acacia  triacanthos . This  is  a common  and  beautiful 
tree  in  the  richer  soils  of  the  valley.  It  furnishes  a durable  and  useful 
timber  for  rails,  and  other  purposes,  and  is  beginning  to  be  much  used  in 
the  construction  of  steam  boats,  and  has  been  found  both  stronger  and 
more  durable,  than  any  timber,  that  has  been  used  for  that  purpose.  The 
flowers  of  this  tree  yield  an  exquisite  perfume. 

The  white  flowering  locust  differs  in  no  respect  from  that  of  the  north. 

The  sugar  maple  is  very  abundant  in  the  northern  and  middle  regions 
of  this  valley.  The  process  of  obtaining  sugar  from  the  sap  of  this  tree 
is  sufficiently  well  known,  and  need  not  be  here  described.  There  are 
various  districts,  where  an  ample  sufficiency  of  sugar  might  be  made  for 
the  supply  of  a numerous  population.  In  different  parts  of  Ohio,  Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee,  Illinois  and  Missouri,  it  is  made,  not  only  for  consump- 
tion, but  for  sale.  The  tree  is  of  itself,  apart  from  its  uses,  a most  beau- 
tiful one.  It  is  one  of  the  first,  that  puts  on  the  livery  of  spring.  The 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


season  of  making  it  is  generally  one  of  festivity  and  high  holiday.  We 
have  tasted  loaf  sugar  refined  from  it,  which  could  in  no  way  be  distin- 
guished from  that,  made  from  the  cane.  The  cheapness  of  the  latter 
kind,  the  abundance  and  excellence  of  its  growth  in  the  lower  country, 
and  the  diminished  expense  of  transporting  it  to  the  upper  states,  in 
consequence  of  the  multiplication  of  steam  boats,  has  diminished  the  de- 
mand for  what  is  called  c country  sugar,’  and  the  manufacture  of  it  has 
decreased,  since  the  use  of  steam  boats. 

The  black  walnut,  juglans  nigra , is  a splendid  tree,  and  often  grows 
to  a great  size.  Its  nuts  much  resemble  those  of  the  white  walnut,  or 
what  is  called  ‘ butter  nut’  in  the  northern  states.  It  is  much  used  in 
the  middle  regions  of  the  country,  for  ornamental  finishing  of  houses, 
and  cabinet  furniture;  and  when  rubbed  with  a weak  solution  of  nitric 
acid,  can  be  distinguished  from  mahogany  only  by  an  experienced  eye. 

The  white  walnut  is  abundant.  An  extract  of  the  bark  of  this  tree 
furnishes  an  useful  and  common  cathartic. 

The  sycamore,  platanus  occidentalism  is  the  king  of  the  western  forests. 
It  flourishes  alike  in  every  part  of  the  valley,  that  we  have  seen.  It  is  the 
largest  tree  of  our  woods,  and  rises  in  the  most  graceful  forms,  with  vast, 
spreading,  lateral  branches  covered  with  bark  of  a brilliant  white.  These 
hundred,  white  arms  of  the  sycamore,  interlacing  with  the  branches  of  the 
other  forest  trees,  in  the  rich  alluvions,  where  it  delights  to  grow,  adds 
one  of  the  distinguishing  traits  of  grandeur  and  beauty  to  the  forest.  A 
tree  of  this  kind,  near  Marietta,  measured  fifteen  feet  and  a half  in  diam- 
eter.— We  have  seen  one  on  the  Big  Miami,  which  we  thought  still  larger. 
Judge  Tucker,  of  Missouri,  cut  off  a section  of  the  hollow  trunk  of  a syca- 
more, and  applied  a roof  to  it,  and  fitted  it  up  for  a study.  It  was  regu- 
larly cylindrical  and  when  fitted  up  with  a stove,  and  other  arrangements, 
made  an  ample  and  convenient  apartment.  We  saw  this  gigantic  sec- 
tion of  a tree,  conveyed  on  sleds  prepared  on  purpose,  and  drawn  by  a 
sufficient  number  of  oxen  to  its  resting  place.  It  is  very  common  to  see 
this  beautiful  tree,  on  the  margin  of  rivers,  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in 
circumference. 

The  yellow  poplar,  tulipifera  liriodendron , is  a most  splendid  tree, 
and  next  in  size  to  the  sycamore.  It  rears  into  the  air  a shaft  of  prodi- 
gious height  and  size.  It  flowers  with  gaudy  bell  shaped  cups,  and  the 
leaves  are  of  beautiful  forms.  It  is  a very  useful  timber  for  plank  and 
rails,  and  all  the  purposes  of  building,  and  splits  with  great  ease. 

The  cotton  wood,  populus  deltoides , is,  probably,  more  abundant  on  the 
lower  courses  of  the  Ohio,  on  the  whole  course  of  the  Mississippi, 
Missouri,  St.  Francis,  White  river,  Arkansas,  and  Red  river,  than  any 
other  tree.  It  is  a tree  of  the  poplar  class,  and  in  appearance  between 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


45 


the  Balm  of  Gilead  and  the  Lombardy  poplar.  It  is  a noble  and  lofty 
forest  tree,  and  sometimes  vies  with  the  sycamore  itself  for  predomi- 
nance in  size  and  grandeur.  It  is  of  singular  beauty,  when  its  foliage  is 
but  partly  unfolded  in  the  spring.  We  have  seen  these  trees,  especially 
in  the  valley  of  Red  river,  twelve  feet  in  diameter;  and  there  are  sin- 
gle trees,  that  will  make  a thousand  rails.  When  they  are  cut  in  the 
winter,  the  moment  the  axe  penetrates  the  centre  of  the  tree,  there 
gushes  out  a stream  of  water,  or  sap;  and  a single  tree  will  discharge 
gallons.  On  the  sand  bars  and  islands  of  the  rivers,  wherever  the  allu- 
vial earth  begins  to  deposite,  there  springs  up  a growth  of  cotton  wood, 
the  young  trees  standing  so  thick,  as  to  render  it  difficult  for  a bird  to 
fly  among  them,  and  having  to  a person  passing  at  a little  distance  on  the 
river,  a singular  appearance  of  regularity,  as  though  they  had  been  put 
out  to  ornament  a pleasure  ground.  The  popular  name, 4 cotton  wood,’ 
is  derived  from  the  circumstance,  that  soon  after  its  foliage  is  unfolded, 
it  flowers,  and  when  the  flowers  fall,  it  scatters  on  the  ground  a downy 
matter,  exactly  resembling  short,  ginned  cotton  in  feeling  and  appearance. 

Catalpa.  Some  have  undertaken  to  say,  that  this  is  not  a tree  indige- 
nous to  the  country.  For  our  part,  we  have  no  question  on  the  subject. 
We  have  seen,  on  the  waters  near  the  cape  Girardeau,  catalpas  much 
older  than  the  settlements  of  the  whites  in  this  valley.  We  have  seen 
them,  below  the  chalk  banks  on  the  eastern  side  of  the  Mississippi,  of  a 
very  large  size,  and  evidently  of  natural  growth.  It  is  a tree,  beautiful 
from  the  great  size  and  peculiar  shape  and  deep  green  of  its  foliage. 
When  in  blossom,  its  rounded  top  is  a tuft  of  flowers  of  great  beauty, 
and  unequalled  fragrance.  One  tree  in  full  flower  fills  the  atmosphere 
for  a considerable  circumference  round  it,  with  its  delicious  odors.  For 
the  gracefulness  of  its  form,  for  the  grandeur  of  its  foliage,  and  the  rich 
and  ambrosial  fragrance  of  its  flowers,  and  for  the  length  and  various  forms 
of  its  knife  shaped,  pendant  seed  capsules  two  feet  in  length,  we  have 
seen  no  ornamental  tree,  which  in  our  view  equals  the  catalpa. 

Magnolia  grandiflora.  Bartram  and  others,  by  overrating  the  beauty 
of  this  tree,  have  caused,  that  when  strangers  first  behold  it,  their  estima- 
tion of  it  falls  too  low.  It  has  been  described,  as  a very  large  tree.  We 
have  seen  it  in  Florida,  where  Bartram  saw  it.  We  have  seen  it  in  its 
more  congenial  position  for  full  developement,  the  rich  alluvions  of 
Louisiana ; and  we  have  never  seen  it  compare  with  the  sycamore,  the 
cotton  wood,  or  even  the  ash,  in  point  of  size.  It  is  sometimes  a tall 
tree;  often  graceful  in  form,  but  ordinarily  a tree  of  fourth  or  fifth  rate 
in  point  of  comparative  size  in  the  forest,  where  it  grows.  Its  bark  is 
smooth,  whitish,  very  thick,  and  something  resembles  that  of  the  beech. 

The  wood  is  soft,  and  for  aught  we  know,  useless.  The  leaves  strongly 


46 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


resemble  those  of  the  orange  tree,  except  in  being  larger,  thicker,  and 
having  a hoary  yellowish  down  upon  the  under  side.  The  upper  side 
has  a perfect  verdure,  and  a feel  of  smoothness,  as  if  it  was  oiled.  The 
flowers  are  large,  of  a pure  white,  nearest  resembling  the  northern  pond 
lily,  nymphea  odorata,  though  not  so  beautiful;  and  are,  ordinarily, 
about  twice  the  size.  The  fragrance,  is  indeed,  powerful,  but  rather 
offensive.  We  have  felt,  and  we  have  heard  others  complain  of  feeling  a 
sensation  of  faintness,  in  going  into  a room,  where  the  chimney  place 
was  filled  with  these  flowers.  The  tree  continues  to  put  forth  flowers  for 
two  months  in  succession,  and  seldom  displays  many  at  a time.  We 
think,  few  have  been  in  habits  of  examining  flowering  trees  more  atten- 
tively, than  ourselves,  and  we  contemplated  this  tree  for  years  in  the 
season  of  flowers.  Instead  of  displaying,  as  has  been  represented,  a 
cone  of  flowers,  we  have  seldom  seen  a tree  in  flower,  which  did  not 
require  some  attention  and  closeness  of  inspection  to  discover  where 
the  flowers  were  situated  among  the  leaves.  We  have  not  been  led  to  be- 
lieve, that  others  possessed  the  sense  of  smell  more  acutely,  than  ourselves. 
In  advancing  from  points,  where  these  trees  were  not,  to  the  pine  forest, 
on  the  water  courses  of  which  they  are  abundant,  we  have  been  warned 
of  our  approach  to  them  by  the  sense  of  smell,  at  a distance  of  something 
more  than  half  a mile;  and  we  question,  if  any  one  ever  perceived  the 
fragrance  much  farther,  except  by  the  imagination.  The  magnolia  is  a 
striking  tree,  and  an  observer,  who  saw  it  for  the  first  time,  would  remark 
it,  as  such. — But  we  have  been  unable  to  conceive,  whence  the  extrava- 
gant misconceptions,  respecting  the  size,  number,  fragrance  and  beauty 
of  its  flowers  had  their  origin. 

There  are  six  or  seven  varieties  among  the  laurels  of  the  magnolia 
tribe,  some  of  which  have  smaller  flowers,  than  those  of  the  gr  auditor  a, 
but  much  more  delicate  and  agreeably  fragrant.  A beautiful  evergreen 
of  this  class  is  covered  in  autumn  with  berries  of  intense  blackness,  and 
we  remarked  them  in  great  numbers  about  St.  Francisville.  The  holly 
is  a well  known  and  beautifv  1 tree  of  this  class.  But  that  one  which  has 
struck  us,  as  being  the  handsomest  of  the  family,  is  the  laurel  almond, 
laurus  cerasus  vel  Caroliniensis.  It  is  not  a large  tree.  Its  leaves 
strongly  resemble  those  of  the  peach ; and  it  preserves  a most  pleasing 
green  through  the  winter.  Its  flowers  yield  a delicious  perfume.  It 
grows  in  families  of  ten  or  fifteen  trees  in  a cluster.  Planters  of  taste 
in  the  valley  of  Bed  river,  where  it  is  common,  select  the  place  of  their 
dwelling  amidst  a cluster  of  these  trees. 

JBois  d'arc;  maclura  aurantica — bow  wood — is  a striking  and  beautiful 
tree,  found  on  the  upper  courses  of  the  Washita,  the  middle  regions  of 
Arkansas,  and  occasionally  on  the  northern  limits  of  Louisiana.  It  in- 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS. 


47 


habits  a very  limited  region;  and  we  do  not  know,  that  it  is  a native 
elsewhere.  It  has  large  and  beautiful  leaves,  in  form  and  appearance 
between  those  of  the  orange  tree  and  catalpa;  and,  taken  altogether,  is 
a tree  of  extraordinary  beauty.— -It  bears  a large  fruit,  of  most  inviting 
appearance,  and  resembling  a very  large  orange.  Tempting  as  it  is  in 
aspect,  it  is  the  apple  of  Sodom  to  the  taste.  Most  people  consider  it 
the  most  splendid  of  all  forest  trees.  We  never  saw  it  in  the  flowering 
season.  There  is  a solitary  tree,  growing  in  a garden  in  St.  Louis.  It 
was  there  sheltered  by  a wall;  and  we  do  not  know,  if  it  would  flourish  in 
a situation  so  northern,  without  protection  of  that  kind.  We  remember' 
to  have  seen  one  beautiful  tree  growing  near  Natchioches,  apparently  na- 
tive there.  It  is  said,  there  it  no  other  within  a distance  of  many  miles. 
The  wood  is  as  yellow  as  that  of  fustic,  and  yields  a similar  die.  It  is  hard, 
heavy,  durable,  and  so  elastic,  as  to  receive  its  French  name  from  the 
the  circumstance,  that  all  the  southwestern  savages  use  it  for  bows.  It 
is  thought  to  be  a wood  more  incorruptible,  than  live  oak,  mulberry,  of 
even  cedar.  We  were  invited  to  visit  the  hulk  of  a steam  boat,  built 
above  the  raft  on  Red  river,  whose  timbers  were  entirely  of  this  wood. 

China  tree.  This  is  a tree  more  cultivated  in  the  southern  regions1 
of  this  valley,  as  an  ornamental  shade  tree  than  any  other.  It  has  fine? 
long  spiked  leaves,  eight  or  ten  inches  in  length,  set  in  corresponding 
pairs  on  each  side  of  a stem  two  feet  long.  The  verdure  is  of  the  most 
brilliant  and  deep  shade  in  nature.  In  the  flowering  season,  the  top  is 
one  tuft  of  blossoms,  in  color  and  fragrance  resembling  the  lilac,  except 
that  the  tufts  are  larger.  It  holds  in  flower  a long  time.  It  is  a tree 
of  the  most  rapid  growth  of  any  known  in  our  country.  These  trees 
planted  out  in  a village,  in  a few  years  completely  embower  it;  and 
from  the  intenseness  of  their  verdure,  they  impart  a delightful  freshness 
to  the  landscape,  in  that  sultry  climate.  After  the  leaves  have  fallen  in 
autumn,  the  tree  is  still  covered  with  a profusion  of  reddish  berries,  of 
the  size  of  haws,  that  give  it  the  appearance,  at  a little  distance,  of  remain- 
ing in  flower.  Robins  immigrate  to  this  region  in  the  latter  part  of 
winter,  settle  on  these  trees  in  great  numbers,  and  feed  on  the  berries.- 
They  possess  an  intoxicating,  or  narcotic  quality;  and  therobbins,  sitting 
on  the  trees  in  a state  of  stupefaction,  may  be  killed  with  a stick.  The 
bark  is  said  to  be  a powerful  vermifuge. 

Dog  wood,  cornus  fiorida.  Redbud,  cercis  canadensis.  These  are 
both  of  an  intermediate  size,  between  shrubs  and  trees.  The  former 
has  a beautiful,  heart  shaped  and  crimped  leaf,  and  an  umbrella  shaped- 
top.  It  covers  itself  in  spring  with  a profusion  of  brilliant  white  flowers, 
and  in  autumn  with  berries  of  a fine  scarlet.  The  latter  is  the  first  shrub 
that  is  seen  in  blossom  on  the  Ohio.  It  is  then  a complete  surface  of 


48 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


blossoms,  resembling  those  of  the  peach  tree,  and  a stranger  would  take  ii 
at  that  time,  to  be  that  tree.  The  shrubs  are  dispersed  every  where  in  the 
woods ; and  in  descending  the  Ohio  early  in  the  spring,  these  masses  of 
brilliant  flowers  contrast  delightfully  with  the  general  brown  of  the 
forest.  The  first  time  that  the  voyager  descends  this  river,  the  redbud 
imparts  a charm  to  the  landscape,  that  he  will  never  forget.  These  two 
are  at  once  the  most  common  and  the  most  beautiful  shrubs  in  the  Mis- 
sissippi valley.  The  dog  wood,  especially,  is  found  every  where  from 
Pittsburgh  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico;  and,  seen  through  the  forests,  in  blos- 
som, is  far  more  conspicuous  for  its  flowers  than  the  magnolia.  It  has 
been  asserted,  that  the  dog  wood  belonged  to  the  family  of  the  quinqui- 
nas. Its  bark  is  certainly  a powerful  restorative,  in  cases  of  the 
ague. 

Pawpaw,  annona  triloba,  ficus  Indicus.  This,  in  our  view,  is  the 
prince  of  wild  fruit  bearing  shrubs.  The  leaves  are  long,  of  a rich 
appearance,  and  green,  considerably  resembling  the  smaller  leaves  of 
tobacco.  The  stem  is  straight,  white,  and  of  unrivalled  beauty.  In 
fact,  we  have  seen  no  cultivated  shrub  so  ornamental  and  graceful  as  tho 
pawpaw.  The  fruit  closely  resembles  a cucumber,  having  a more 
smooth  and  regular  appearance.  When  ripe,  it  is  of  a rich  yellow. 

There  are  generally  from  two  to  five  in  a cluster.  A pawpaw  shrub, 
hanging  full  of  fruits,  of  a size  and  weight  so  disproportioned  to  the 
stem,  and  from  under  long  and  rich  looking  leaves  of  the  same  yellow 
with  the  ripened  fruit,  of  an  African  luxuriance  of  growth,  is  to  us  one 
of  the  richest  spectacles,  that  we  have  ever  contemplated,  in  the  array 
of  the  woods. — The  fruit  contains  from  two  to  six  seeds,  like  those  of 
the  tamarind,  except  that  they  are  double  the  size.  The  pulp  of  the  fruit 
resembles  egg  custard  in  consistence  and  appearance.  It  has  the  same 
creamy  feeling  in  the  mouth,  and  unites  the  taste  of  eggs,  cream,  sugar 
and  spice.  It  is  a natural  custard,  too  luscious  for  the  relish  of  most 
people.  The  fruit  is  nutricious,  and  a great  resource  to  the  savages. 

So  many  whimsical  and  unexpected  tastes  are  compounded  in  it,  it  is 
said,  a person  of  the  most  hypochondriac  temperament  relaxes  to  a smile, 
when  he  tastes  the  pawpaw  for  the  first  time.  j . 

Persimon,  dyospyros  Virginiana.  From  the  body  of  this  tree,  which 
resembles  that  of  a mazzard  cherry,  when  pierced,  exudes  a copious  gum, 
not  unlike  gum  Arabic,  in  appearance.  The  leaves  resemble  those  of  a ! 
wild  black  cherry.  The  fruit  is  of  the  size  of  a common  horse  plumb 
When  green,  it  is  astonishingly  astringent.  It  is  only  ripened  by  the  frost 
of  winter.  There  are  varieties  in  its  size,  from  low  shrubs  to  considera- 
ble trees.  When  the  small  blue  persimon  is  thoroughly  ripened,  it  is 
even  sweeter  than  the  fig,  and  is  a delicious  fruit  If  the  best  kinds  | 


I 


4i) 


TREES  AND  SHRUBS, 

were  cultivated,  and  purchased  from  beyond  the  seas,  it  would  probably 
be  much  more  known,  and  used,  than  it  now  is. 

Wild  plumbs.  The  Chickasaw  plumb  is  common  from  34°  to  the 
gulf  of  Mexico.  It  is  found  in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  ripens  early 
in  June.  Prairie  plumbs  are  most  abundant  in  Illinois  and  Missouri, 
on  the  hazle  prairies.  They  are  of  various  sizes  and  flavors.  Their 
•general  color  is  reddish,  and  their  flavor  tart.  Some  of  them  are  large 
and  delicious.  For  an  experiment  of  the  yield,  two  bushels  were  gath- 
ered from  one  tree.  In  places  they  are  found  in  inconceivable  quanti- 
ties, the  surface  of  acres  being  red  with  them.  The  yellow  Osage  plumbs, 
of  this  class,  when  the  better  kinds  are  cultivated,  are  among  the  most 
delicious  plumbs,  we  have  eaten.  So  rich  and  delightful  a fruit,  and  so 
‘easily  cultivated,  well  deserves  to  be  transplanted  to  the  Atlantic  country. 

Crab  apple,  pyrus  cor onarict.  In  the  middle  regions  of  the  valley,  on 
prairies  of  a particular  description,  there  are  great  tracts  covered  with  an 
impenetrable  mat  of  crab  apple  shrubs.  The  form,  color  and  fragrance 
of  the  blossoms  are  precisely  like  the  blossoms  of  the  cultivated  apple 
tree.  When  the  southern  breeze  comes  over  a large  tract  of  these  shrubs 
in  full  blossom,  it  is  charged  with  a concentrated  fragrance  almost  too 
strong  to  be  grateful.— They  are  useful  as  stocks,  in  which  the  culti- 
vated apple  and  pear  tree  maybe  engrafted, — Their  fruit,  when  properly 
prepared,  makes  the  finest  of  cider  ; and  the  apple  is  much  used,  as  a 
preserve. 

Mulberry.  There  are  said  to  be  two  species  in  the  country;  the 
white,  and  the  black.  We  have  never  seen  the  white  indigenous;  but 
have  so  often  heard  it  asserted  to  exist,  as  a native,  that  we  are  compelled 
to  credit  it. — The  common  mulberry  is  the  black,  and  it  is  found  in  every 
part  of  the  valley,  that  we  have  seen.  In  some  places,  it  constitutes  no 
inconsiderable  proportion  of  the  timber.  We  have  seen  whole  groves  of 
small  and  young  trees,  apparently  in  the  right  stage  to  be  useful  for 
feeding  the  silk  worm.  Experience  has  demonstrated,  that  the  worm 
thrives  on  these  leaves,  and  that  the  product  is  of  good  quality.  The 
wide  diffusion,  and  the  great  prevalence  of  the  mulberry,  the  general 
temperature  of  the  valley,  and  the  condition  and  habits  of  the  people, 
clearly  indicate  to  them,  that  this  country  ought  to  devote  itself  exten- 
sively to  the  making  of  silk. 

In  this  country  of  forests,  and  where  there  are  such  numbers  and 
varieties  of  trees,  we  might  select  many  other  interesting  ones  for  de- 
scription ; perhaps  some  of  them  more  so,  than  those,  which  we  have 
here  attempted  to  describe.  The  necessary  brevity  of  our  limits  forbids 
our  enlarging.  From  Michaux  we  learn,  that  our  trees  are  larger,  taller, 
and  more  of  them  useful  for  timber,  than  those  of  Europe.  The  forest 

7 


50 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


has  as  a general  physiognomy,  an  aspect  of  luxuriance,  which  discriminates 
it  to  the  most  superficial  observer,  from  that  on  the  other  side  of  the 
mountains.  We  may  add,  that  the  varieties  of  trees  of  the  same  class 
appear  to  be  more  numerous.  We  apprehend,  that  most  of  the  trees  of 
that  region  are  found  here,  while  a number  of  the  trees  here  are  peculiar  to 
this  valley.  Trees  of  the  same  class  here  are  inferior  to  those,  that  are 
there,  for  the  same  uses,  as  timber.  They  are  less  tough,  elastic  and 
durable.  We  may  add,  that  the  pine  forests  of  the  south  contain  count- 
less millions  of  tall  and  straight  pines,  and  would  furnish,  without 
sensible  diminution,  masts  and  spars  for  all  the  navies  in  the  world. 

Vines  and  Creepers.  The  common  grape  vine,  vitis  sylvestris , is 
diffused  through  all  the  climates.  Nothing  is  so  familiar  to  the  eye  of  a 
traveller  in  this  country,  as  soon  as  he  enters  on  the  richer  lands,  as  to 
see  vines,  often  of  a prodigious  size,  that  are  perpendicularly  attached 
at  the  top  branches,  sixty  or  eighty  feet  from  the  ground ; and  at  a great 
lateral  distance  from  the  trunk  of  the  tree.  It  is  a standing  puzzle  to  a 
young  man,  first  brought  into  these  woods,  to  task  his  ingenuity,  by 
putting  him  to  account  for  the  manner,  in  which  a vine,  perhaps  nearly  of 
the  size  of  the  human  body,  has  been  able  to  rear  itself  to  such  a height. 
There  can  be,  however,  no  doubt,  that  the  vine  in  this  case  is  coeval 
with  the  tree;  that  the  tree,  as  it  grew,  reared  the  vine;  and  that  the  vine 
receded  from  the  trunk,  with  the  projection  of  the  lateral  branches,  until, 
in  the  lapse  of  time,  this  singular  appearance  is  presented.  In  many 
places,  half  the  trees  in  a bottom  are  covered  with  these  vines.  In  the 
deep  forests,  on  the  hills,  in  the  barrens,  in  the  hazle  prairies,  and  in  the 
pine  woods,  every  form  and  size  of  the  grape  vine  presents  itself.  We 
presume,  there  is  no  scientific  and  complete  description  and  arrangement 
of  these  vines.  The  most  obvious  popular  division  follows. 

Winter  grape,  vitis  hyemalis.  This  is  the  large  vine,  that  so  generally 
clings  to  the  trees  in  the  alluvial  forests.  The  leaves  are  large,  and  of  a fine 
rich  green;  intermediate,  between  the  size  of  the  leaves  of  the  cultivated 
grape,  and  the  fox  grape.  They  climb  to  the  top  of  the  highest  trees  of 
the  forest.  Probably,  not  more  than  one  in  fifty  of  them  bears  any  fruit 
at  all.  The  fruit,  when  produced,  is  a small  circular  berry,  not  unlike 
the  wild  black  cherry.  It  is  austere,  sour  and  unpleasant,  until  it  has 
been  mellowed  by  the  frosts  of  winter.  But  it  is  said,  when  fermented 
by  those,  who  have  experience  in  the  practice,  to  make  a tolerable 
wine. 

Summer  grape,  vitis  cestiva.  We  have  never  seen  it  in  deep  bottoms. 
It  is  found  on  the  rolling  barrens,  and  the  hazle  priaries.  It  has  a larger 
leaf,  than  the  former  vine ; and  the  wood  of  the  vine  is  finely  colored  of 


VINES  AND  CREEPERS. 


51 


a blueish  purple.  The  grape  is  more  than  twice  the  size  of  the  winter 
grape,  is  ripe  in  the  first  month  in  autumn,  and  when  matured  under  the 
full  influence  of  the  sun,  is  a pleasant  fruit.  It  grows  in  the  greatest 
abundance;  but  is  too  dry  a grape  to  be  pressed  for  wine. 

June  grape,  vitis  vernalis.  This  is  a small,  sweet  grape,  found  on  the 
islands  of  the  upper  Mississippi  and  Illinois,  that  ripens  in  June.  We 
have  seen  the  vine;  but  have  never  tasted  the  fruit.  It  is  said  to  be  the 
grape,  of  which  the  French,  in  the  early  periods  of  their  establishment  in 
this  country, used  to  make  wine.  Various  animals  prey  upon  it;  and  it 
has  almost  disappeared  from  the  country. 

Parsley  leaved  water  grape,  vitis  ciquatica.  We  have  never  seen 
this  vine  in  bearing. 

Fox  grape,  vipis  riparia , is  of  the  same  size,  form  and  quality  with  the 
same  species  on  the  east  side  of  the  mountains.  It  is  very  uncommon. 

Muscadine  grape,  vitis  verrucosa.  This  vine  strongly  designates 
climate.  It  is  seldom  seen  north  of  34°  South  of  that  it  becomes 
abundant.  It  is  found  in  the  deep  alluvial  forests  clinging  to  the  tall  trees. 
The  vine  is  smooth,  and  of  a fine  olive  green ; and  the  leaves  are  smaller, 
than  those  of  the  cultivated  grape.  The  fruit  grows  in  more  sparse 
clusters,  than  those  of  other  grapes.  Like  other  fruits,  they  fall  as  they 
ripen,  and  furnish  a rich  treat  to  bears,  and  other  animals,  that  feed  on 
them.  The  grape  is  of  the  size  of  a plumb;  of  a fine,  purple  black;  with 
a thick,  tough  skin,  tasting  not  unlike  the  rind  of  an  orange.  The  pulp 
is  deliciously  sweet,  but  is  reputed  unwholesome. 

Pine  woods  grape.  In  ignorance  of  its  proper  designation,  we  shall 
call  it  vitis  humilior  from  its  habit  of  creeping  on  the  ground.  It 
is  agreed,  that  there  are  varieties  of  this  fine  grape,  which  from  the 
frequent  burning  of  the  pine  woods,  is  becoming  uncommon.  It  is  sur- 
prising, how  little  curiosity  has  been  excited,  even  where  it  grows,  by 
this  rich  fruit.  It  has  a slender,  blueish  purple  vine,  that  runs  on  the 
ground  among  the  grass.  It  ripens  in  the  month  of  June;  is  large  cone 
shaped,  transparent,  with  four  seeds,  reddish  purple ; and  is  a fine  fruit 
for  eating. 

On  the  sandy  plains  at  the  sources  of  Arkansas  and  red  river,  the  gen- 
tlemen of  Long’s  expedition  concur  with  hunters  and  travellers,  in  relating 
that  they  found  large  tracts  of  sand  plain,  from  which  grew  a grape,  which, 
we  infer  from  the  description,  to  be  of  the  same  species  of  the  pine 
woods  grape.  They  have  described  the  clusters  to  be  large  and  deli- 
cious; and  that  the  sand,  drifting  about  them,  covers  up  the  redundant 
vegetation,  performing  the  best  operation  of  pruning  on  the  vine.  The 
sun,  too,  strongly  reflected  from  a surface  of  sand,  must  have  a powerful 
influence  to  mature  them.  It  is  posssibie,  that  some  of  the  admiration, 


52  i MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY » 

which  has  been  felt,  in  seeing  such  sterile  tracts  covered  with  these 
abundant  and  rich  clusters,  and  the  high  zest,  with  which  they  were 
devoured,  may  have  been  owing  to  the  surprise  of  finding  such  a phe- 
nomenon in  contrast  with  a white  and  moving  sand,  and  eating  the  fruit 
under  associations  created  by  hunger  and  thirst. 

The  universal  diffusion  of  such  numbers  and  varieties  of  the  vine 
would  seem  to  indicate  this  valley  to  possess  a natural  aptitude  for  the 
cultivation  of  the  vine.  It  would  be  an  experiment,  it  would  appear,  well 
worth  the  trial,  to  engraft  or  bud  every  variety  of  the  cultivated  grape  on 
the  stocks  of  each  of  these  native  varieties.  It  is  possible,  that  the  exotics 
might  thus  be  at  once  acclimated;  and  it  is  not  unlikely,  that  changes 
might  be  produced  in  them  favorable  to  their  enduring  the  climate,  and 
to  their  flavors  and  vinous  properties. 

Bignonia  radicans  is  a creeper,  beautiful  for  its  foliage  and  flowers. 
It  has  a vine  of  a grayish  white  color,  and  long  and  delicate  spike  shaped 
leaves  in  alternate  sets.  It  climbs  the  largest  trees  in  preference,  mounts 
to  their  summits,  and  displays  a profusion  of  large,  trumpet  shaped 
flowers,  of  flame  color.  Planted  near  a house,  in  two  or  three  seasons  a 
single  vine  will  cover  a roof,  throwing  its  fibrous  and  parasitic  roots  so 
strongly  under  the  shingles,  as  to  detach  them  from  the  roof. 

Ivy.  There  are  varieties  of  this  creeper.  Every  traveller  in  the  rich 
alluvions  has  been  impressed  with  the  spectacles  exhibited  there,  of 
the  thousands  of  large  and  lofty  columns  of  the  cotton  wood,  wreathed 
from  the  ground  to  the  branches  with  an  architectural  drapery  of  this 
deep  verdure.  We  have  seen  huge  trunks  of  dead  trees  so  ornamented. 
It  is  one  of  those  charms  of  nature,  that  never  tire  on  the  eye.  It  is 
thus,  that  nature  ornaments  the  pillars  of  her  great  temple,  to  fit  it 
to  inspire  delight  and  adoration  in  the  solitary  worshipper. 

Supple-jack.  We  have  first  remarked  this  creeper  in  about  latitude 
35°  The  vine  resembles  that  of  the  muscadine  grape;  but  the  olive 
color  is  deeper.  It  is  well  known  to  attach  itself  so  strongly  to  the 
shrub  it  entwines,  as  to  cause  those  curious  spiral  curves  and  inner 
flattenings,  that  give  its  singularity  and  value  to  the  supple-jack  cane. 
The  foliage  of  the  vine  is  an  exact  copy  in  miniature  of  that  of  the 
China  tree.  Ths  richness  of  its  verdure,  the  impervious  thickness  of 
its  dark  green  foliage,  and  the  profusion  of  deep  black  berries  with 
which  it  is  covered,  would  render  it  a beautiful  creeper  with  which 
to  cover  a pavilion,  or  a piazza. 

There  is  a creeper,  which  we  have  not  seen  noticed  by  travellers 
or  botanists,  and  which,  indeed,  we  have  not  often  seen  ourselves,  and 
then  only  on  the  margin  of  the  Mississippi,  between  New  Madrid  and 
the  mouth  of  the  Arkansas,  Its  vine  and  foliage  somewhat  resemble 


tines  and  creepers. 


53 


those  of  the  supple-jack.  We  never  saw  it  climbing  shrubs  more  than 
ten  feet  in  height.  The  flowers  were  long  and  rich  tufted  wreaths, 
on  small,  flexile,  twiny  stems,  and  much  resembling  the  purple 
blossoms  of  the  pea.  They  were  gathered  for  the  garnishing  of  the 
chimney  places  of  the  cabins  j and  we  have  seen  no  flowers,  that  ex- 
ceeded them  in  splendor  and  beauty. 

The  rich  alluvial  districts  of  the  lower  country  of  the  Mississippi 
and  its  tributaries  are  tangled  with  creepers,  of  various  kinds,  foliage 
and  forms.  Some  of  them  are  annual,  and  some  perennial.  Many  of 
them,  as  far  as  our  knowledge  extends,  are  non-descripts. 

Cane,  arundo  gigantea , vel  miegia  macrosperma. — Some  assert  that, 
the  low  and  bastard  cane  and  the  tall  reed  cane  are  the  same  species,  and 
differ  only  in  size  and  height.  Others,  and  it  is  the  prevalent  opinion, 
assert,  that  they  are  varieties.  Every  one  has  seen  this  reed  in  the  form, 
in  which  it  is  used  for  angling  rods.  It  grows  on  the  lower  courses  of  the 
Mississippi,  Arkansas  and  Red  river,  from  fifteen  to  thirty  feet  in  height. 
We  have  seen  some,  in  these  rich  soils,  that  would  almost  vie  in  size  with 
the  bamboo.  The  leaves  are  of  a beautiful  green — long,  narrow  and 
dagger  shaped,  not  unlike  those  of  Egyptian  millet.  It  grows  in  equidis- 
tant joints,  perfectly  strait,  almost  a compact  mass;  and  to  us,  in  winter 
especially,  is  the  richest  looking  vegetation,  that  we  have  ever  seen.  The 
smallest  sparrow  would  find  it  difficult  to  fly  among  it ; and  to  see  its  ten 
thousand  stems,  rising  almost  contiguous  to  each  other,  and  to  look  at  the 
impervious  roof  of  verdure,  which  it  forms  at  its  top,  it  has  the  aspect 
of  being  a solid  layer  of  vegetation.  A man  could  not  make  three  miles 
in  a day  through  a thick  cane  brake.  It  is  the  chosen  resort  of  bears  and 
panthers,  which  break  it  down,  and  make  their  way  into  it,  as  a retreat 
from  man.  It  indicates  a dry  soil,  above  the  inundation,  and  of  the 
richest  character.  The  ground  is  never  in  better  preparation  for  maize, 
than  after  this  prodigious  mass  of  vegetation  is  first  cut  down,  and  burned.. 
When  the  cane  has  been  cut,  and  is  so  dried,  as  that  it  will  burn,  it 
is  an  amusement  of  holiday  to  the  negroes,  to  set  fire  to  a cane  brake,  thus 
prepared.  The  rarefied  air  in  the  hollow  compartments  of  the  cane  bursts 
them  with  a report,  not  much  inferior  to  a discharge  of  musquetry;  and 
the  burning  of  a cane  brake  makes  a noise  as  of  a conflicting  army,  in  which 
thousands  of  muskets  are  continually  discharging.  This  beautiful  vege - 
ble  is  generally  asserted  to  have  a life  of  five  years,  at  the  end  of  which 
period,  if  it  has  grown  undisturbed,  it  produces  an  abundant  crop  of 
seed,  with  heads  very  like  those  of  broom  corn.  The  seeds  are  farinace- 
ous, and  said  to  be  not  much  inferior  to  wheat,  for  which  the  Indians? 
and  occasionally  the  first  settlers,  have  substituted  it.  No  prospect  so 


54 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


impressively  shows  the  exuberant  prodigality  of  nature,  as  a thick  cane 
brake.  Nothing  affords  such  a rich  and  perennial  range  for  cattle,  sheep 
and  horses.  The  butter,  that  is  made  from  the  cane  pastures  of  this 
region,  is  of  the  finest  kind.  The  seed  easily  vegetates  in  any  rich  soil. 
It  rises  from  the  ground,  like  the  richest  asparagus,  with  a large  succulent 
stem ; and  it  grows  six  feet  high,  before  this  succulency  and  tenderness 
harden  to  wood.  No  other  vegetable  furnishes  a fodder  so  rich,  or  abund- 
ant; nor,  in  our  view,  does  any  other  agricultural  project  so  strongly  call 
for  a trial,  as  the  annual  sowing  of  cane,  in  regions  too  far  north  for  it 
to  survive  the  winter.  We  suppose,  this  would  be  in  latitude  39°. 

Gooseberry.  All  its  varieties  are  seen  indigenous  in  all  parts  of  this 
valley.  It  grows  to  a great  height  and  size  in  the  middle  regions, 
and  covers  itself  with  fruit.  We  have  seen  in  Missouri  a gooseberry 
hedge,  of  a height,  compactness  and  thorny  imperviousness,  to  turn  all 
kinds  of  cattle.  It  would  have  the  advantage  of  attaining  its  full  size 
in  three  or  four  years. 

Privet.  This  beautiful  ornamental  shrub,  too  well  known  to  need 
description,  is  indigenous  to  various  parts  of  the  valley.  When  clipped, 
it  forms  a compact  wall  of  verdure,  like  the  box,  used  for  the  same 
purposes  at  the  north. 

Hazle  bush.  Immense  tracts  of  the  prairies  are  covered  with  this- 
bush;  and  the  nuts  are  fine  and  abundant. 

The  whortleberry  is  not  so  common,  as  in  the  Atlantic  country;  but, 
where  it  does  grow,  is  of  great  size.  They  are  found  in  great  abundance-, 
and  in  full  perfection,  at  the  bases  of  the  flint  knobs,  in  the  St.  Francis 
country,  and  along  the  upper  courses  of  White  river. 

We  have  seldom  seen  the  red  raspberry ; but  it  is  said  to  grow  of  fine 
size  and  flavor,  from  the  middle  to  the  northern  regions  of  the  valley. 

Blackberries,  high  and  creeping,  are  found  in  prodigious  abundance? 
from  the  north  to  the  south. 

The  prairies,  in  many  places,  in  the  season,  are  red  with  fine 
strawberries. 

For  the  rest,  the  fruit  bearing  shrubs  and  plants  do  not  materially 
differ  from  those  of  the  Atlantic  country.  With  the  exception  of  the 
strawberry  and  blackberry,  they  are  not  so  common  here,  as  there. 

Herbs,  Grasses  and  Flowering  Plants,  The  universal,  indigenous 
grass  of  this  country,  in  all  its  climates  and  extent,  covering  the  millions 
of  acres  of  the  prairies,  is  what  is  commonly  called  prairie  grass,  poa 
pratensis.  It  grows  equally  in  the  forests  and  barrens,  wherever  there 
is  an  interval,  sufficiently  unshaded  to  admit  its  growth. — It  is  tall, 
coarse,  and  full  of  seeds  at  the  top;  and  when  ripe,  is  rather  too  wiry 
for  fodder.  It  is  cut  for  that  purpose  in  September.  If  it  were  cut 


OF  GRASSES  AND  PLANTS. 


55 


earlier,  and  before  it  had  lost  its  succulence  and  tenderness,  it  would, 
probably,  be  excellent  fodder.  As  it  is,  the  prairies  yield  inexhaustible 
quantities;  and  the  towns  and  villages  in  the  prairie  regions  are  copious- 
ly supplied.  When  young,  and  before  it  has  thrown  up  its  stems,  it  re- 
sembles wheat  in  appearance.  We  have  seen  cattle,  turned  into  the 
wheat  fields  in  the  spring,  to  eat  down  the  redundant  growth  of  wheat, 
feed  on  the  grass  along  the  margins  of  the  fields  in  preference  to  the 
wheat. 

The  only  grass,  that  yields  a fine,  soft  sward,  is  called  blue  grass,  and 
is  not  unlike  the  common  spear  grass  of  New  England.  We  are  not 
satisfied,  whether  it  be  indigenous,  or  not.  We  have  constantly  observed 
it  growing  about  deserted  houses,  and  Indian  villages.  On  the  upper 
prairies  of  Illinois,  it  is  said  in  many  places  to  be  displacing  the  prairie 
grass.  It  seems  to  be,  like  the  robin-redbreast,  attached  to  the  abodes  of 
civilized  man. 

We  have  recently  read,  that  in  the  wet  prairies  of  Illinois  and  Indiana^ 
the  fowl  meadow  grass  of  New  England  was  growing  in  abundance. 
Whether  this  be  fact,  or  not,  whoever  would  introduce  this  valuable  grass 
to  notice  in  the  wet  prairies  of  the  West  would  be  a benefactor  to  that 
region. 

The  rush,  equisetum  hyemale , grows  on  bottoms,  in  grounds  of  an 
intermediate  elevation,  between  those  of  the  cane  brake  and  the  deep 
overflow.  It  is  found,  of  a humbler  growth,  quite  to  the  sources  of  the 
Mississippi.  But  it  finds  its  full  developement  between  36°  and  33°. 
We  have  travelled  among  this  grass,  a perfect  mat,  as  high  as  the  shoulders. 
Nothing  can  exceed  the  brilliance  of  its  verdure,  especially,  when  seen 
in  winter,  in  contrast  with  the  universal  brown.  Where  it  grows  high  and 
thick,  it  is  difficult  to  make  way  through  it;  and  it  has  a disagreeable 
kind  of  rustling,  which  produces  the  sensation,  that  is  called  setting  the 
teeth  on  edge.  In  northern  regions  its  tubular  stock  is  apt  to  fill  with 
compact  icicles.  It  is  well  known  to  be  the  favorite  range  of  horses  and 
cattle,  and  is  devoured  by  them  with  more  greediness,  than  even  cane. 
When  filled  with  ice,  and  thus  swallowed,  it  produces  a chill  in  the 
stomach  of  the  cattle,  that  is  apt  to  prove  fatal.  To  the  cattle  and  horse 
boats,  that  descend  the  Mississippi,  it  is  an  invaluable  resource.  The 
cattle  and  horses,  pent  up  and  immovable  in  these  floating  barns,  for 
many  days  in  succession,  are  turned  loose,  and  find  holiday  pasture  in 
this  rich  range. 

Pea  vine.  This  is  a small,  fibrous  vine,  that  covers  the  soil  in  the 
richer  forest  lands.  It  receives  its  name  from  the  resemblance  of  its 
leaves  and  flowers  to  those  of  the  cultivated  pea.  It  is  a rich  and  almost 
universal  forest  range  for  cattle ; but  when  once  eaten  down,  is  not  apt 


56 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


to  renew  itself.  Of  course,  it  disappears  in  the  vicinity  of  compact 
population. 

Swamp  grass.  This  grass  is  found  in  low,  wet  and  miry  swamps,  on 
hassocks  elevated  above  the  water.  It  is  of  the  brightest  verdure* 
remaining  green  through  the  frosts  of  winter.  It  seems  to  be  the  same 
grass,  which  grows  in  boggy  meadows  in  New  England.  Its  sharp  edges, 
when  drawn  rapidly  through  the  fingers,  cut  them.  In  the  middle  regions 
of  the  valley,  cattle  are  driven  to  these  swamps,  to  subsist  through 
the  winter, 

Wild  rice,  zizania  aquatica , vel  fatuis  avena.  By  the  French,  folles 
avoines.  By  the  Indians,  menomene.  It  is  found  in  the  greatest  abund- 
ance on  the  marshy  margins  of  the  northern  lakes,  and  in  the  plashy 
waters  on  the  upper  courses  of  the  Mississippi.  It  grows  in  those  regions 
on  a vast  extent  of  country.  It  is  there,  that  the  millions  of  migrating 
water  fowls  fatten,  before  they  take  their  autumnal  migration  to  the 
south.  It  is  there,  too,  that  the  northern  savages,  and  the  Canadian 
traders  and  hunters,  find  their  annual  supplies  of  grain.  But  for  this 
resource,  they  could  hardly  exist.  It  is  a tall,  tubular,  reedy,  water  plant, 
not  unlike  the  bastard  cane  of  the  southern  countries.  It  very  accurate- 
ly resembles  the  cane  grass  of  the  swamps  and  Savannas  on  the  gulf  of 
Mexico.  It  springs  up  from  waters  of  six  or  seven  feet  in  depth,  where 
the  bottom  is  soft  and  muddy.  It  rises  nearly  as  high  above  the  water. 
Its  leaves  and  spikes,  though  much  larger,  resemble  those  of  oats,  from 
which  the  French  give  it  its  name.  Its  culm  is  jointed,  as  large  as  the 
little  finger ; leaves  broad,  and  linear,  panicle  more  than  a foot  in  length; 
the  lower  branches  with  spreading  barren  flowers,  the  upper  with  fertile 
and  erect  ones.  The  seeds  are  blackish,  smooth  narrow,  cylindrical, 
about  three  quarters  of  an  inch  long,  deciduous.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
discovered  in  the  brooks  of  Massachusetts.  When  it  is  intended  to  be 
preserved  for  grain,  the  spikes  are  bound  together,  to  preserve  them  from 
the  ravages  of  birds  and  water  fowls,  that  prey  upon  them  in  immense 
numbers.  It  thus  has  a chance  to  ripen.  At  the  season  for  gathering  it, 
canoes  are  rowed  among  the  grain.  A blanket  is  spread  upon  them,  and 
the  grain  is  beaten  upon  the  blankets.  It  is,  perhaps,  of  all  the  cerea- 
lia,  except  maize,  the  most  prolific.  It  is  astonishing,  amidst  all  our 
eager  and  multiplied  agricultural  researches,  that  so  little  attention  has 
been  bestowed  upon  this  interesting  and  valuable  grain.  It  has  scarcely 
been  known,  except  by  Canadian  hunters  and  savages,  that  such  a grain, 
the  resource  of  a vast  extent  of  country,  existed.  It  surely  ought  to  be 
ascertained  if  the  drowned  lands  of  the  Atlantic  country,  and  the  immense 
marshes  and  stagnant  lakes  of  the  south,  will  grow  it.  It  is  a mistake, 
that  it  is  found  only  in  the  northern  Legions  of  this  valley.  It  grows  in 


MEDICINAL  PLANTS. 


57 


perfection  on  the  lakes  about  Natchitoches,  south  of  32°;  and  might, 
probably,  be  cultivated  in  all  climates  of  the  valley.  Though  a hardy 
plant,  it  is  subject  to  some  of  the  accidents,  that  cause  failure  of  the 
other  grains.  The  grain  has  a long,  slender  hull,  much  resembling  that 
of  oats,  except  that  it  is  longer  and  darker.  In  detaching  this  hull,  the 
Indians  use  a process  of  drying,  that,  probably,  in  most  instances  destroys 
its  germinating  principle.  Those,  who  have  found  this  grain  unpleasant, 
have,  perhaps,  eaten  it,  when  smoked,  and  badly  prepared.  There  is, 
probably,  the  same  difference  in  quality,  too,  as  in  other  grains.  The 
grain,  that  we  have  eaten,  was  as  white,  as  the  common  rice.  Puddings 
made  of  it  tasted  to  us,  like  those  made  of  sago. 

Palmetto,  chemcerops  latanier.  This  is  a perennial  plant,  strongly 
marking  climate.  It  commences  in  the  same  regions  with  long  moss,— 
that  is  to  say,  about  33°.  It  throws  up  from  a large  root,  so  tough  as  to 
be  cut  with  difficulty  by  an  axe,  and  hard  to  be  eradicated  from  the  soil, 
large,  fan  shaped  palms,  of  the  most  striking  and  vivid  verdure,  and  ribbed 
with  wonderful  exactness.  It  indicates  a deep  swampy  soil,  and  grows 
six  feet  in  height. — The  infallible  index  of  swampy,  and  southern  climate, 
and  having  no  resemblance  to  any  plant,  seen  at  the  north,  its  foreign 
aspect,  and  its  deep  green  unchanged  by  winter,  when  first  seen  by  the 
immigrant  from  the  north,  with  a surprise  connected  with  rather  unpleas- 
ant associations,  strongly  reminds  him,  that  he  is  a stranger,  and  in  a new 
country.  It  is  used  by  the  savages,  and  the  poorer  creoles,  as  thatch  for 
their  cabins;  and  from  the  tender  shoots  of  the  season,  properly  prepared, 
a very  useful  kind  of  summer  hats,  called  palmetto  hats,  is  manu- 
factured. 

Medicinal  Plants.  On  this  head,  but  little  is  yet  known  of  this 
country;  and  that  little,  except  the  most  obvious  points,  falls  within  the 
proper  limits  of  description  by  a physician.  In  a climate  so  various,  a 
soil  so  prolific,  and  a flora  so  immense,  as  that  of  the  prairies,  where  such 
an  infinite  variety  of  plants  and  flowers  is  renewed,  and  perishes  every 
season,  and  in  a country  so  fresh,  it  may  be  readily  conceived,  that  the 
medicinal  properties  of  but  very  few  of  the  plants  have  been  sufficiently 
experimented.  Most  of  the  medicinal  plants  of  the  Atlantic  country  are 
found  here;  and  many,  that  are  peculiar  to  this  region. 

Varieties  of  the  hop  are  natives  of  the  country;  and  the  hazle  prairies 
have  their  clumps  of  hazle  bushes  often  surmounted  with  the  beautiful 
wreathings  of  the  clusters  of  the  common  hop. 

Virginia  snake  root;  a species  of  ipecacuanna,  called  Indian  physic; 
American  columbo;  frasera  Caroliniensis , a plant  growing  six  feet 
high,  and  covering  itself  with  brilliant  flowers;  thoroughwort,  upatorium 

8 


58 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


perfoliatum;  ginseng;  all  the  varieties  of  the  mints;  blood  root,  sanguis 
riaria  Canadensis ; — these  plants  are  commmon,  and  widely  diffused. 

May  apple,  podophyllum  peltatum , is  a beautiful  plant,  that  completely 
covers  the  ground,  where  it  grows,  with  the  freshest  and  most  cheering 
verdure  of  spring.  It  has  a handsome  white  blossom,  and  bears  a fruit 
of  the  appearance  and  taste  of  a lemon.  Its  root  is  a powerful  cathartic, 
and*  has  been  successfully  introduced  into  medicine  as  a substitute 
for  jalap. 

Seneka,  polygala  seneka;  American  senna,  cassia , marilandica;  poke 
weed,  pkytollacca  decandria , Oswego  tea,  monardakalmiana ; poison  su- 
mach, rhus  vernix;  solanum  nigrum , or  nightshade ; wakerobin,  trillium 
cernuum;  golden  rod,  solidago  odor  a;  missletoe,  viscum  album ; hore 
hound,  &c.- — are  common. 

Strammony,  strammonium  datura , a poisonous  weed,  perniciously 
common  through  the  western  country.  On  the  richest  bottoms,  it  grows 
fifteen  feet  in  height,  and  of  a size  and  compactness,  to  prevent  cattle 
from  running  among  it.  It  has  splendid  flowers,  and  a great  quantity  of 
oily  seeds.  Its  smell  is  nauseous;  and  it  is  a common,  and  annoying 
tenant  of  the  villages  on  the  alluvial  margins  of  rivers.  In  some  places, 
no  inconsiderable  part  of  the  labor  on  the  highways  is  to  cut  up  this 
weed  from  the  roads  and  outlets  of  the  villages.  Its  popular  name  is 
jimson, — probably  a corruption  of  Jamestown,  the  place,  whence  it  is 
said  to  have  been  brought.  It  is  used  in  medicine  in  spasmodic  asthma. 

The  next  most  common  and  annoying  weed  along  the  roads,  especially 
in  Louisiana,  is  a very  tall  plant,  resembling  cassia  marilandica.  It 
renders  the  paths,  and  the  banks  of  the  bayous  in  that  region,  almost 
impassable  in  autumn,  until  the  cattle  have  trodden  it  down. 

Cockle  burrs,  in  the  same  situations,  are  excessively  annoying  weeds, 
filling  the  outlots  and  uncultivated  places  to  such  a degree,  that  the  burrs 
attach  to  the  clothes  of  passengers,  and  mat  the  wool  of  sheep,  running 
among  them,  with  an  inextricable  tangle. 

Virginia  snake  root,  aristolochia  serpentaria;  wormwood,  artemisia, 
all  the  varieties ; southern  wood;  wormseed;  wild  horehound,  eupatorium 
pilosum , black  henbane,  hyoscyamus  nigra ; deadly  nightshade,  atropa 
belladona;  Indian  tobacco,  lobelia  white  horehound,  marrubium 

vulgare;  balm,  melissa  officinalis;  among  the  mints — pennyroyal,  mentha 
pulegium , growing  to  a great  size;  sarsaparilla,  smilax;  Carolina  pink, 
spigelia  marilandica;  common  nettle,  uriica , every  where  annoying  to 
the  summer  traveller  in  the  woods ; valerian  officinalis,  common  on  the 
Ohio;  gentian;  all  the  species  of  the  violets;  prairie  wax  weed,  common 
in  the  prairies,  from  four  to  six  feet  high,  when  perforated,  exuding  a 
yellow,  terebenthine  wax  of  aromalic  smell,  and  to  which  many  virtues 
are  ascribed  by  the  settlers. 


MEDICINAL  PLANTS.  . 


59 


We  could  easily  swell  this  catalogue  with  the  names  of  a hundred 
other  plants,  to  which  various  and  powerful  medicinal  virtues  are  ascribed 
by  the  people.  We  could  add  to  it  the  herbs,  which  are  cultivated,  as 
medicinal. — We  have  merely  attempted  a brief  outline  of  the  most 
common  indigenous  medicinal  plants  of  the  valley.  Almost  every  family 
has  its  panaceum , in  some  herb  or  plant,  which  that  family  has  exclusively 
experimented.  A rich  harvest  for  experiment  is  yet  reserved  for  the 
scientific  botanist  and  physician. 

The  common  kinds  of  aquatic  plants  are  found  in  the  still  and  shallow 
waters  of  the  swamps;  particularly, a beautiful  kind  of  water  lily,  highly 
fragrant,  and  bearing  no  resemblance  to  the  nymphea  odorata , which  we 
have  not  seen  here,  but  which  is  said  to  be  found  in  the  northern  regions 
of  the  valley.  A singular  kind  of  aquatic  vegetation,  which  has  given 
rise  to  the  fiction  of  floating  islands  of  vegetation  on  these  waters, 
is  seen  to  cover  great  extents  of  shallow  lakes  and  muddy  bayous.  It 
appears,  indeed,  to  float  on  the  water;  and  great  masses  of  it,  no  doubt, 
often  are  detached,  and  seen  floating,  as  though  there  were  no  roots 
attached  to  the  soil  at  the  bottom.  But  we  have  examined  it,  and  found 
its  twiny  stem  of  many  yards  in  length,  bound  to  the  bottom  by  a 
thousand  fibrous  roots.  It  has  a small,  beautiful,  elliptical  leaf,  and  a 
diminutive,  but  delicate  white  flower.  We  have  sailed,  when  the  bow  of 
the  vessel  made  a furrow  through  fields  of  this  curious  plant.  Under 
them  fishes  dart,  alligators  gambol,  and,  in  the  proper  season,  multi- 
tudes of  water  fowls  are  seen,  pattering  their  bills  among  these 
leaves.  We  have  seen  this  plant  designated  by  the  name,  pistia  stratiotes. 

Among  the  flowering  aquatic  plants,  there  is  one,  that  for  magnificence 
and  beauty  stands  unrivalled  and  alone.  We  have  seen  it  on  the  middle 
and  southern  waters ; but  of  the  greatest  size  and  splendor  on  the  bayous 
and  lakes  of  the  Arkansas.  It  has  different  popular  names.  The  upper 
Indians  call  it  panocco.  It  is  designated  by  botanists  by  the  name 
nymphea  nelumho.  It  rises  from  a root,  resembling  the  large  stump  of  a 
cabbage,  and  from  depths  in  the  water,  from  two  or  three  to  ten  feet.  It 
has  an  elliptical,  smooth  and  verdant  leaf,  some  of  the  largest  being  of 
the  size  of  a parasol.  These  muddy  bayous  and  stagnant  waters  are 
often  so  covered  with  the  leaves,  that  the  sandpiper  walks  abroad  on  the 
surface  of  them,  without  dipping  her  feet  in  the  water. — The  flowers  are 
enlarged  copies  of  the  nymphea  odorata , or  New  England  pond  lily. 
They  have  a cup  of  the  same  elegant  conformation,  and  all  the  brilliant 
white  and  yellow  of  that  flower.  They  want  the  ambrosial  fragrance  of 
the  pond  lily;  and  resemble  in  this  respect,  as  they  do  in  their  size,  the 
flowers  of  the  laurel  magnolia.  On  the  whole,  they  are  the  largest  and 
most  beautiful  flowers,  that  we  have  seen.  They  have  their  home  in 
dead  lakes,  in  the  centre  of  cypress  swamps,  Musquitos  swarm  above1 


60 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Obscene  fowls  and  carrion  vultures  wheel  their  flight  over  them.  Alii- 
gators  swim  among  their  roots ; and  moccasin  snakes  bask  on  their  leaves. 
In  such  lonely  and  repulsive  situations,  under  such  circumstances,  and 
for  such  spectators,  is  arrayed  the  most  gaudy  and  brilliant  display  of 
flowers  in  the  creation.  In  the  capsule  are  embedded  from  four  to  six 
acorn  shaped  seeds,  which  the  Indians  roast,  and  eat,  when  green;  or 
they  are  dried,  and  eaten,  as  nuts,  or  are  pulverized  into  meal,  and  form 
a kind  of  bread. 

We  have  seen  a large  yellow  flower  on  the  arid  bluffs  of  that  high 
limestone  wall,  that  runs,  like  a huge  parapet,  between  St.  Genevieve 
and  Herculaneum,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  The  summit 
of  this  parapet  has  not  more  than  two -or  three  inches  of  soil,  and  is  bare 
of  all  vegetation,  but  a sparse,  seared  grass.  It  was  under  the  burning 
sun  of  July,  when  every  thing,  but  these  flowers,  was  scorched.  The 
cup  of  the  flower  was  nearly  half  the  size  of  the  common  sunflower.  It 
rose  only  four  or  five  inches  from  the  soil,  and  covered  it,  as  with  gilding. 
We  have  seen  no  description  of  this  striking  flower,  nor  have  we  seen  it 
existing  elsewhere. 

Missletoe,  viscus  alba . This  is  a parasitic  plant,  which  attaches 

itself  to  the  body  and  larger  limbs  of  trees, — most  frequently  the  syca- 
more and  the  elm.  It  is  common  on  the  trees  along  the  banks  of  the 
Ohio,  from  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans.  The  bright  green  masses  of 
this  plant,  with  copious  clusters  of  transparent,  white  berries,  make  a 
very  singular  appearance  in  winter,  when  seen  clinging  to  the  naked 
branches.  This  is  the  plant,  to  which  the  Druids  were  said  to  pay 
divine  honors.  The  agglutinated  slime  of  its  berries  is  used  for  bird 
lime. 

Long  moss,  tillandsia  usneoides.  This  parasitic  and  singular  vegeta- 
tion is  first  seen  in  company  with  the  palmetto,  about  latitude  33°.  It 
hangs  down  in  festoons,  like  the  twiny  stems  of  weeping  willow.  It 
attaches  itself  of  choice  to  the  cypress,  and,  after  that,  to  the  acacia. 
These  pendent  wreaths  often  conceal  the  body  of  the  tree,  when  bare  of 
foliage,  to  such  a degree,  that  little  is  seen,  but  a mass  of  moss.  Waving 
in  the  wind,  they  attach  themselves  to  the  branches  of  other  trees,  and 
thus  sometimes  form  curtains  of  moss,  that  darken  the  leafless  forest  of 
winter.  They  are  in  color  of  a darkish  gray,  and  many  yards  in  length. 
The  moss  bears  a small,  trumpet  shaped  flower,  of  peach  blow  color, 
and  seeds  still  finer,  than  those  of  tobacco. — Associated,  as  it  naturally 
is,  with  marshy  and  low  alluvions,  where  it  grows  in  the  greatest  profu- 
sion, and  with  the  idea  of  sickness,  this  dark  drapery  of  the  forest  has 
an  aspect  of  inexpressible  gloom.  It  is,  when  fresh,  a tolerable  fodder 
for  horses  and  cattle,  and  the  deer  feed  upon  it  in  winter.  It  soon  dies 
on  dead  trees.  Prepared,  something  after  the  manner  of  water  rotted 


ANIMALS. 


61 


hemp,  the  bark  is  decomposed,  and  the  fibre  remains,  fine,  black,  strong,, 
elastic,  and  apparantly  incorruptible.  In  this  state,  in  appearance  and 
elasticity  it  resembles  horse  hair,  and,  like  that,  is  used  for  mattresses. 
Most  of  the  people  in  the  lower  country  sleep  on  them,  and  they  are  be- 
coming an  article  of  commerce  in  the  upper  country.  The  creoles 
make  various  articles  of  harnessing,  as  horse  collars,  and  saddle  stuffing, 
of  this  article.  For  these  purposes,  considerable  quantities  are  exported 
to  the  upholsterers  and  carriage  makers  in  the  Atlantic  country. 

To  the  eye  of  a naturalist,  no  doubt,  the  infinite  varieties  of  plants 
and  flowers  in  the  forests  and  on  the  prairies,  that  distract  the  gaze  of  a 
common  observer,  and  confound  all  his  attempts  to  class  them,  may  all 
have  an  easy  arrangement,  fa  local  habitation  and  a name.’  To  another 
an  attempt  to  class  them  would  at  first  seem  like  numbering  the  drops  of 
dew,  that  fall  from  them.  The  friable  soil  of  the  western  country  does 
not  naturally  cover  itself  with  the  fine  sward  of  the  northern  Atlantic 
country.  It  is  the  region  of  coarse  grass,  tall  flowering  plants,  with 
gaudy  flowers ; and  to  an  unpractised  eye,  presents  a flora  of  great 
variety.  We  have  not  presumed  to  give  the  above,  as  any  thing  more 
than  the  sketch  of  a catalogue.  Many  of  the  barks  of  the  trees  of  this 
valley  have  medicinal  qualities.  The  numbers,  forms  and  gigantic  heights 
of  these  weeds  and  plants  are  not  among  the  least  surprising  curiosities 
to  an  observer  of  nature. 

The  following  are  among  the  garden  flowers,  more  particularly  of  the 
southern  regions. 

Jessamines,  white,  cape,  Armenian  and  yellow.  Different  kinds  of 
sensitive  plants,  Spanish  dagger.  Primrose,  Jonquils,  white  and  yellow  - 
Iris.  Blue  and  yellow  touch-me-not.  Violets.  Lilies.  Roses,  monthly, 
perpetual,  moss,  scarlet,  white,  Damascus,  multiflora,  bell.  Honeysuckle. 
Woodbine.  Flowering  pomegranate. — Bamboo.  Myrtle.  Altheas 

white  and  red.  Crape  myrtle.  Daffodil.  These  are  the  common  flow- 
ers, where  they  are  not  curious  in  choice,  or  varieties'.’* 

Animals.  We  deem  it  useless  to  go  into  detail  in  the  account  of 
animals,  which  this  country  has  in  common  with  those  east  of  the  moun- 
tains. We  believe,  that  the  catamount,  a ferocious  animal  formerly  seen 
in  New  Hampshire  and  Maine,  has  not  been  seen  west  of  the  mountains. 
There  is  a much  greater  abundance,  if  not  variety  of  the  deer  kind  here. 

The  milder  winters,  the  deeper  forests,  the  more  luxuriant  pastures, 
the  greater  abundance  and  variety  of  the  nut  and  acorn  bearing  trees, 
the  more  multiplied  means  of  animal  subsistence,  would  give  reason  to 


*For  catalogue  of  plants  and  flowers,  see  Appendix,  table  No.  III. 


G2 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


expect  a greater  profusion  of  game.  Deer,  from  pairs  to  twenty  together , 
are  so  common  a sight,  even  in  the  settled  country,  as  not  to  excite  much 
surprise. — Bears,  in  the  middle  and  settled  regions  of  the  valley,  are  not 
common ; and  a bear  hunt  is  there  a matter  of  novelty  and  excitement. 
But  high  on  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  and  on  the  lower  courses  of 
the  latter  river  and  its  tributaries,  in  the  deep  cane  brakes  and  swamps, 
bears  still  breed,  and  range  in  security;  and  the  planters  take  the  frequent 
amusement  of  hunting  them.  We  landed  at  the  cabin  of  a settler,  be- 
tween White  river  and  Arkansas,  who  showed  the  skins  of  twenty  bears, 
which  he  had  killed  that  season. 

In  the  northern  part  of  Illinois,  towards  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  southwest  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  Osage,  and  other  wooded  streams 
in  that  direction,  bears  are  still  hunted  for  their  skins  and  their  oil. 
Bear’s  oil,  which  is  very  liquid,  transparent,  and,  when  not  rancid,  mild 
and  agreeable  to  the  taste,  is  in  those  regions  extensively  used,  as  a 
substitute  for  butter.  The  hunters  ascend  the  streams  at  the  proper 
season  for  hunting  them,  and  pursue  the  bears  in  the  depth  of  the 
wilderness.  They  remain  for  the  summer  season  in  the  woods.  Late 
in  Autumn  they  return  with  bear  skins,  and  the  flesh  cured,  as  smoked 
middlings  of  pork,  and  not  unfrequently  as  fat.  The  oil  is  put  into  a 
periogue;  and  we  have  seen  a hunter  paddling  one  periogue,  and  having 
another  lashed  and  balanced  alongside  full  of  oil. 

Venison  is  an  important  article  of  food,  and  of  sale  in  most  of  the 
newer  villages  of  the  western  country.  The  markets  in  the’  larger 
towns  are  sometimes  supplied  with  it.  It  furnishes  one  of  the  sub- 
stantial elements  in  the  subsistence  of  a back  settler.  Hunting  the 
deer  is  the  standing  amusement  of  the  southern  planter.  A night  hunt 
seldom  fails  to  furnish  a number  of  these  animals.  In  the  northern 
regions,  and  about  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri,  the  elk 
takes  the  place  of  the  deer.  The  moose  is  sometimes  seen  with  the  elk. 

In  the  vast  prairies  on  the  upper  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Arkansas  and 
Bed  river,  and  in  all  the  space  beyond  a belt  of  a hundred  leagues  from 
white  settlements,  where  they  are  not  seen,  and  the  Rocky  mountains, 
the  buffalo  is  the  grand  object  of  hunting  and  subsistence  to  the  savages. 
The  flesh  is  the  chief  article  of  food,  not  only  of  the  Indians  of  those 
regions,  but  for  the  white  hunters  and  trappers.  The  skins  furnish  their 
dress,  and  the  couches,  the  seats,  and  the  ornamental  part  of  the  furni- 
ture of  their  cabins.  Tanned  and  stretched  on  tent  poles,  and  erected 
in  neat,  cone  shaped  tents,  they  shelter  the  savages  in  their  distant 
migrations  from  their  villages.  The  buffalo  robes  furnish  one  of  their 
most  important  articles  of  commerce.  Hunting  the  buffalo  is  a business 
of  great  solemnity,  and  one  of  the  most  important  functions  of  savage  life- 


ANIMALS. 


m 


Every  person  engaged  in  it,  has  his  proper  post  of  honor,  and  his  point  of 
concert  with  the  rest.  The  Indians,  used  to  hunt  with  bows  and  arrows, 
but  are  now  commonly  armed  with  yagers.  The  attack  is  generally  on 
horseback.  When  the  attacking  party  have  approached  the  drove,  the 
religious  rites  are  renewed,  and  the  cavalcade,  in  confidence  of  the  aid 
of  the  Great  Spirit,  dashes  upon  them.  To  be  successful,  the  horses 
must  be  both  fleet,  and  well  managed.  It  often  happens,  that  the  older 
and  more  daring  animals  turn,  and  make  battle  ; in  which  case  there  is 
danger  to  the  horse  of  being  gored,  and  of  the  rider  to  be  slain. — The 
animal,  in  its  agony  and  wrath,  is  terrible.  Sometimes,  when  feathered 
with  many  arrows,  or  pierced  with  many  balls  it  becomes  a question, 
who  has  slain  it.  But  there  are  so  many  witnesses,  the  wound,  among 
many,  that  was  mortal,  is  so  accurately  known,  and  it  is  so  vital  to 
their  peace,  that  all  this  should  be  settled  by  precedent,  that  in  the 
division  of  the  spoil,  disputes  seldom  occur.  Every  part  of  the  animal 
is  prepared  in  some  way  for  use.  A part  is  preserved  fresh,  for  immedi- 
ate use.  The  fat  from  the  intestines  is  melted,  skimmed,  and  put  into 
bladders  for  future  use,  and  proves  an  agreeable  substitute  for  butter.  A 
protuberance  on  the  shoulders,  called  the ; hump,’  is  the  choice  part  of 
the  animal.  The  return  of  such  a party  from  a successful  hunt  is  a season 
of  the  highest  savage  holiday.  The  skins,  inwrought  into  all  the  furni- 
ture of  their  domestic  establishment,  so  vital  to  their  comfort,  and  the 
surplus  furnishing  their  principal  article  of  traffic,  are  entrusted  for  pre- 
paration, as  are  all  their  more  laborious  kinds  of  drudgery,  to  the  squaws. 
This  a very  material  part  of  Indian  labor.  The  method  of  preparing 
them  is  primitive  and  simple,  but  slow  and  laborious,  and  consists,  prin- 
cipally, in  smoking,  drying  and  rubbing  them.  When  dressed,  they  are 
soft,  pliant  and  durable.  By  the  juice  of  some  vegetable,  supposed  to  be 
sanguinaria  Canadensis , fixed  by  a process,  known  only  to  themselves, 
they  paint  lines,  figures  and  devices  on  the  buffalo  skins,  of  a beautiful 
red  color,  that  retains  a durable  brilliance,  unchanged  by  the  sun  and 
air.  Among  these  animals,  as  among  domestic  ones,  there  are  the  differ- 
ences of  size,  age,  and  beauty  and  deformity,  lean  and  fat.  The  males 
are  eatable,  only  for  a part  of  the  year,  and  the  cows  are  most  sought  for 
hunting,  as  an  article  of  food.  No  wild  animal  has  a more  noble  appear- 
ance, than  a full  grown  male  buffalo.  It  has  been  said,  that  they  are  of 
the  same  species  with  domestic  cattle.  From  the  habits,  as  well  as  the 
appearance  of  the  animal,  we  should  think  not.  The  color  is  generally 
of  a brownish  gray,  and  much  of  the  wool,  or  hair,  has  the  fineness  of  fur, 
and  by  the  English  is  wrought  into  articles  of  a beautiful  fabric,  which  is 
becoming  an  article  of  manufacture.  They  have  burly  heads,  covered 
with  shaggy  wool ; and  the  long  and  erect  hair  prevails  to  the  termina- 


64 


anssissippi  valley. 


tion  of  the  hump  beyond  the  fore  shoulders.  They  have  small  and  short 
horns,  not  more  than  four  or  five  inches  in  length,  and,  compared  with 
domestic  cattle,  small  and  fierce  eyes;  and,  viewed  all  together,  have 
rather  a savage  and  outlandish  appearance.  But,  in  fact,  they  are  the 
same  mild  animal  with  the  domestic  cattle ; are  easily  tamed  and  domes- 
ticated; and  the  animals,  that  spring  from  the  mixture  of  breeds,  are 
said  to  unite  the  valuable  properties  of  both.  Their  beef  is  generally 
preferred  to  that  of  the  domestic  ox.  The  range  of  this  animal  used  to 
extend  over  all  the  valley.  The  eyes  of  the  patriarchal 4 residenters,’  who 
first  fixed  themselves  in  the  unbroken  wilderness,  as  they  relate,  how 
they  used  to  see  countless  numbers  of  these  animals  scouring  the  thickets, 
brighten  in  the  relation,  and  view  the  present  order  of  things,  which  have 
driven  these  animals  far  to  the  west,  with  the  regrets  of  hunters. 
The  whites,  wherever  they  have  fixed  themselves,  ha  ve  waged  upon  them 
a gratuitous  war  of  extermination;  and  these  innocent,  useful  and  noble 
animals  instinctively  fly  their  footsteps.  They  remain  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  savages,  who  kill  no  more  of  them,  than  subsistence  or  profit  requires. 
The  white  hunters  have  destroyed  them  for  their  tongues  only.  They 
still  range  from  Bed  river  of  the  north  to  the  populous  regions  of  Mexi- 
co;— but  let  the  smallest  settlement  of  whites  be  fixed  in  their  vicinity, 
and  the  animals  soon  interpose  a line  of  an  hundred  leagues  of  demar- 
cation between  them  and  their  enemies. 

On  the  northern  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  and  between  that  river  and 
the  lakes,  the  muskrat  and  otter  are  taken  in  great  numbers  for  their 
furs.  The  flesh  of  the  muskrat  is  prized  in  these  regions,  by  the  Indians 
as  a delicacy.  We  have  been  present  at  these  highly  flavored  repasts, 
when  the  peculiar  smell  of  the  animal  perfumed  the  cabin. 

At  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Yellowstone,  Platte,  White, 
Arkansas  and  Bed  rivers,  and  on  all  their  tributaries,  that  have  courses  in 
the  Bocky  mountains,  the  great  object  of  pursuit,  both  by  the  hunters  and 
trappers,  white  and  savage,  is  the  beaver.  It  is  the  chief  source  of  gain 
to  the  savages ; their  dependence  for  their  supply  from  the  whites  of 
arms,  ammunition,  blankets,  strouding,  traps,  whiskey,  and  all  objects  of 
necessity  and  desire.  To  these  lonely  and  sequestersed  regions  repair 
hundreds  of  white  hunters,  who  hunt  for  subsistence,  and  trap  for  gain 
They  make  their  way  in  companies  of  armed  partnerships,  fitted  out,  as 
a kind  of  guerillas.  Sometimes  a pair  of  sworn  friends  hunt  together. 
There  are  not  a few,  who  repair  alone  to  these  solitary  streams  and 
mountains.  Outlawry,  avarice,  necessity,  and  appetite  for  lawless  and  ; 
unrestrained  and  unwitnessed  roving,  constant  exposure  and  danger,  the 
absolute  need  of  relying  alone  upon  their  own  personal  strength  and 
resources,  create  a very  singular  compound  of  astonishing  quickness  of  j 


ANIMALS. 


65 


perception  and  a reckless  confidence  in  their  own  prowess.  We  have 
seen  more  than  one  hunter  of  this  cast  incurably  attached  to  a solitude 
of  labor  and  danger,  compared  with  which  Robinson  Crusoe’s  sojourn  on 
his  island  was  but  a mere  pastoral  experiment.  They  furnish  an  impres- 
sive proof  that  there  is  no  mode  of  life  intrinsically  so  repulsive  and 
painful,  but  man  may  become  reconciled  to  it  by  habit.  A lonely  hunter, 
cast  upon  the  elements,  with  nothing  but  prairies  and  mountains  in  view, 
without  bread  or  salt,  and  every  hour  in  jeopardy  from  beasts  and  savages, 
amidst  scenery  and  dangers,  that  would  naturally  tend  to  raise  the  heart 
to  God,  trusting  to  no  divinity,  but  his  knife  and  his  gun,  building  all 
his  plans  for  the  future  on  his  traps,  regarding  the  footstep  of  man 
imprinted  in  the  sand  an  object  of  calculating  apprehension,  and  almost 
equally  dreading  the  face  of  the  white  man  and  the  savage,  in  situations 
thus  lonely  and  exposed,  braves  the  heat  of  summer  and  the  ices  of 
winter,  the  grizzly  bear,  and  robbers  of  his  own  race,  and  the  savages, 
for  years.  When  he  has  collected  a sufficient  number  of  packs  of  beaver, 
he  falls  a hollow  tree,  slides  it  into  some  full  mountain  stream,  and 
paddles  down  the  thousand  leagues  of  the  Missouri,  and  is  seen  bustling 
about  the  streets  of  St.  Louis,  to  make  bargains  for  his  furs.  There  are 
very  simple  and  obvious  marks,  by  which  to  class  these  packs,  according 
to  their  quality  and  value.  The  more  northern  the  range  of  the  animal, 
the  more  valuable  is  the  fur;  and  in  the  same  parallel,  those  that  live  in 
mountain  streams  are  more  valuable,  than  those  that  live  on  plains. 
The  habits  of  this  valuable  and  social  animal  are  well  known,  and  are 
the  same  in  this  region,  as  elsewhere.  The  packs  are  rated  by  the 
pound,  and  pass  in  many  places,  as  a substitute  for  money.  They  are, 
in  fact,  the  circulating  medium  of  Canadian  and  Missouri  hunters, 
coureurs  du  hois,  and  many  tribes  of  savages.  St.  Louis  is  the  centre 
of  the  fur  trade  in  this  valley. 

Gray,  grizzly,  or  white  bear,  ursus  arcticus.  His  range  is  on  the  upper 
courses  of  the  Missouri,  and  its  tributaries,  and  along  the  bases  of  the 
Rocky  mountains.  The  brown  bear,  except  under  particular  circunr 
stances,  does  not  face  man.  But  this  terrible  animal,  so  far  from  fearing 
or  flying,  pursues  him,  having  less  fear  of  him,  than  any  other  beast  of 
prey.  Indian  warriors,  in  their  vaunting  war  songs,  when  they  perform 
what  is  called i striking  the  post,’  or  rating  the  bravery  of  their  exploits, 
recount  having  slain  one  of  these  animals,  as  no  mean  exploit,  and,  in 
fact,  as  not  inferior  to  having  slain  a human  enemy.  It  is  one  of  the 
largest  and  strongest  animals  of  prey,  being  out  of  comparison  larger, 
than  the  brown  bear.  Lewis  and  Clark  give  the  dimensions  of  one, 
slain  by  their  party  towards  the  sources  of  the  Missouri.  It  measured 
round  the  head  three  feet  five  inches;  round  the  neck  three  feet  eleven 

9 


66 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


inches ; length  eight  feet  seven  inches  and  a half;  round  the  fore  leg  one 
foot  eleven  inches;  length  of  talons  four  inches  and  a half!  The 
weight  is  sometimes  nearly  thirteen  hundred  pounds.  Like  the  lion  and 
the  tiger  on  the  African  deserts,  he  reigns,  the  ferocious  tyrant  of  these 
solitudes.  The  Crow  Indians  and  the  Gros  ventres , who  live  in  the 
range  of  this  animal,  have  lost  many  of  their  bravest  warriors  by  him. 
The  white  hunters  are  shy  of  attacking  him,  except  in  companies;  and 
many  have  been  destroyed  in  the  attempt.  The  skin  of  those  in  the 
more  northern  regions  is  very  valuable.  It  is  rated  in  value  from  thirty 
to  fifty  dollars.  Fortunately  he  is  not  very  swift ; and  as  he  usually 
ranges  in  the  timbered  regions,  and,  unlike  the  brown  bear,  does  not 
climb,  hunters  fly  him  by  mounting  a tree. 

Panther,  by  the  French  called  tigre , is  a ferocious  animal  of  the  cat 
family.  They  range  the  forests,  over  all  this  valley.  They  are  of  the 
size  of  the  largest  dogs,  of  a darkish  gray  color,  marked  with  black  spots. 
They  are  in  shape  much  like  the  domestic  cat,  with  short  legs,  large 
paws,  and  long  talons.  Their  head,  too,  resembles  that  of  a cat,  with 
whiskers  not  quite  so  long  in  proportion.  They  purr  in  the  same  way? 
when  they  are  in  good  humor,  and  seem  to  have  all  the  habits  of  the  cat. 
We  have  often  heard  their  wild,  nocturnal  cry  at  the  commencement  of 
twilight  in  the  forests.  They  are  dangerous  when  wounded,  and  under 
particular  circumstances  have  been  known  to  attack  a man.  They  conceal 
themselves  among  the  branches  of  trees,  and  thence  dart  upon  their  prey. 
They  seldom  fail  to  attack  a child,  should  they  meet  him  alone.  In  the 
country  west  of  the  lower  Mississippi,  there  is  sometimes  seen  an  animal 
of  this  kind,  but  much  larger,  than  the  panther.  We  saw  a skin  of  this 
animal,  killed,  we  believe,  not  far  from  Natchez,  and  it  was  the  size  of 
a leopard’s  skin,  and  of  a color,  intermediate  between  the  spots  of  the 
leopard  and  the  stripes  of  the  African  tiger. — There  has,  probably, 
been  exaggeration,  as  to  the  size  and  numbers  of  these  animals,  in  the 
accounts,  that  have  been  published  of  them.  But  there  can  be  no  doubt, 
that  an  animal  of  the  panther  species,  of  great  size  and  fierceness,  ranges 
these  forests,  probably,  an  occasional  visitor  from  the  Mexican  regions. 

Wolf.  There  are  two  species  that  are  common — the  gray,  large, 
forest  wolf,  and  the  prairie  wolf.  We  should  judge  the  former  to  be 
larger  than  the  Atlantic  wolf.  We  encountered  an  uncommonly  large 
one,  in  the  forests  between  Natchitoches  and  the  Sabine.  A very  large 
dog  could  not  be  brought  to  advance  towards  him,  and  he  sat  and  eyed 
us,  at  a few  rods  distance. 

The  prairie  wolf  is  of  a lighter  gray,  and  not  more  than  half  the  size 
of  the  former.  They  have  sharper  noses,  and  a form  more  resembling 
that  of  a fox.  They  are  bold,  fierce,  cunning  and  mischievous  animals. 


ANIMALS. 


67 


and,  in  their  bark  and  howl,  not  easily  distinguished  from  the  domestic 
dog.  They  sometimes  travel  in  packs  on  the  prairies.  We  have  often 
heard  their  shrill  and  sharp  bark  by  night,  from  a cabin  on  the  prairies. 
It  was  evidently  a note  of  defiance  to  the  dogs  of  the  house.  The  latter 
retreat  towards  the  cabin,  evidencing  fear,  and  diminishing  their  bark  to 
a whine,  and  finally  pawing  at  the  door  for  admission  within.  They  are 
a most  annoying  scourge  to  the  farmer,  and,  in  fact,  the  greatest  impedi- 
ment to  the  raising  of  sheep  on  the  prairies. 

All  the  American  varieties  of  foxes,  porcupines  and  rabbits  are 
common ; the  latter  so  much  so,  as  to  be  exceedingly  annoying  to  gardens 
and  young  nurseries.  They  breed  in  vast  numbers  in  the  patches  of 
hazles  and  vines,  and  skirt  the  prairies  and  barrens. 

Raccoons  are  very  troublesome  to  corn  fields,  and  it  is  a sport,  prepa- 
ratory to  more  serious  hunting,  for  boys  to  sally  out,  and  take  them 
by  night. 

Woodchucks  and  oppossums  abound,  and  are  generally  so  fat,  as  not 
to  be  able  to  reach  their  burrows,  if  overtaken  at  a little  distance  from 
them.  These  animals  are  called  by  the  French,  ‘ cochons  du  hois? 
They  scald  off  the  hair,  and  dress  them,  as  roasting  pigs,  and  consider 
them  a great  delicacy.  The  singular  formation  of  the  oppossum  is  too 
well  known,  to  need  description ; but  they  have  one  habit,  that  we  have 
not  seen  described.  They  seem  to  be  lazy,  reckless  and  stupid  animals; 
and  prove,  that  the  profoundest  dissimmulation  may  consist  with  the 
greatest  apparent  stupidity.  It  is  familiar  to  every  one,  who  has  often 
seen  this  animal,  that  when  you  come  upon  it,  at  any  distance  from  its 
shelter,  which  is  a hollow  tree  or  log,  instead  of  retreating  for  that  shelter, 
it  turns  on  its  side,  throws  out  its  legs  and  settles  its  body,  its  eyes,  and 
its  features  into  the  supineness  of  death.  Observers  have  remarked, 
that  the  imitation  is  perfect  in  every  part  of  the  body,  but  the  tail,  and 
that  this  retains  a living  and  elastic  coil,  that  only  appertains  to  life. 
Even  the  instinctive  shrewdness  of  the  dog  is  at  fault;  for  he  applies  his 
nose  to  the  animal,  and  turns  it  over,  and  passes  it  by  as  dead.  This 
astonishing  trait  of  the  instinct,  or  reasoning  of  this  sluggish  animal,  is 
transferred  by  a figure  to  men.  In  the  common  parlance  of  the  country, 
any  one,  who  counterfeits  sickness,  or  dissembles  strongly  for  a particu- 
lar  purpose,  is  said  to  be  ‘ possuming!’ 

Squirrels.  Gray,  black,  chesnut,  and  all  the  smaller  varieties  of  this 
animal  abound.  There  is  no  part  of  the  valley,  where  they  do  not  prey 
upon  corn  fields,  adjacent  to  woods,  in  such  a manner,  as  that  in  autumn, 
farmers  will  not  consider  it  an  object  to  furnish  a boy  with  gun,  powder 
and  lead,  on  condition,  that  he  will  shoot  only  about  their  corn  fields.  It 
is  a cheering  spectacle  in  autumn,  to  walk  in  the  beech  and  hickory 


08 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY, 


bottoms,  where  you  may  often  see,  at  one  view,  half  a dozen  of  these 
active  and  proud  little  animals,  flourishing  their  erect  and  spread  tails, 
barking  defiance  at  you,  or  each  other,  and  skipping,  as  if  by  the  aid  of 
wings,  from  branch  to  branch.  It  is  a fact,  to  which  we  can  bear  occular  testi- 
mony, that  they  cross  rivers  ; at  some  times  swimming  ; at  other  times 
on  a chip,  or  piece  of  bark,  raising  and  spreading  their  tails,  by  way  of 
sail.  It  often  happens  to  these,  as  to  other  inexperienced  navigators, 
that  they  spread  too  much  canvass,  and  are  overset,  and  drowned.  It  is 
related,,  as  having  happened  in  the  year  1811,  that  they  emigrated  from 
the  north  towards  the  south  by  thousands,  and  with  a front  of  some  regu- 
larity, along  the  lower  part  of  the  state  of  Ohio,  and  the  whole  front  of 
Indiana.  Thousands  were  drowned,  in  attempting  to  cross  the  Ohio. 

The  skunk  is  common,  and  is  oftener  met,  than  east  of  the  mountains  ; 
but  in  other  respects  is  the  same  bold  animal,  and  possessing  the  same 
reliance  upon  his  peculiar  kind  of  defence. 

Gopher,  a species  of  mole,  more  than  twice  the  size  of  the  common 
field  mole.  It  burrows  in  the  prairies;  and  there  are  immense  tracts 
covered  with  the  little  hillocks,  made  by  the  earth  which  they  have  dug 
from  their  burrows.  They  have  an  exquisitely  soft,  fine  fur,  of  cerulean 
color;  and  they  have  on  each  side  of  their  jaws  a pouch,  or  skinny  bag, 
of  considerable  size,  which  is  usually  seen  distended  with  the  dirt? 
which  they  are  transporting  from  their  holes.  They  prey  on  the  bulbous 
roots  of  flowers,  on  potatoes,  and  other  vegetables,  and  are  particularly 
destructive  to  young  orchards,  killing  the  trees  by  gnawing  off  a com- 
plete circle  of  bark  round  the  body,  near  the  roots.  The  mounds  which 
they  raise,  are  serious  impediments  in  the  way  of  driving  carts  and 
carriages  over  the  theatre  of  their  operations. 

An  animal  confounded  with  this,  but  not  the  same,  inhabits  the  shores 
aloncr  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  and  is  called  the  Salamander.  It  is  of  the  size, 
and  in  some  respects,  the  appearance  of  a common  rat.  It  is  never  seen 
abroad  by  day.  It  is  a fierce  and  fighting  little  animal,  when  overtaken 
in  its  burrows,  and  the  wounds  inflicted  with  its  teeth  severe. 

Elk.  Large  flocks  of  these  animals  are  found  in  the  northern  limits  of 
the  range  of  the  buffalo.  To  our  view,  an  elk  is  no  more,  than  a very 
large  deer,  something  exceeding  the  height  of  a common  horse.  Their 
flesh  has  the  same  flavor,  as  common  venison.  Their  habits  are  similar 
to  those  of  the  deer.  In  the  country  where  they  range,  hunting  them  is 
an  object  with  the  Indians,  only  secondary  to  that  of  hunting  the  buffalo. 
We  have  never  seen  the  moose  in  this  country  ; but  it  is  found  in  the 
northern  and  northwestern  regions. 

Antelope,  a kind  of  mountain  deer,  seen  bounding  on  the  summits  of 
the  highest  and  most  precipitous  hills  at  the  sources  ol  the  Missouii 


BIIlDSo 


69 


They  are  described,  as  being  very  fleet  and  beautiful  animals,  and  their 
flesh  is  preferred  to  that  of  the  common  deer.  Timid  as  they  are,  their 
excessive  curiosity  lures  them  to  their  destruction. — They  gaze  upon 
man,  until,  as  if  charmed,  they  seem  arrested  to  the  spot,  and  in  this  way 
are  sometimes  killed. 

Mountain  sheep,  an  animal,  that,  like  the  former,  inhabits  mountains, 
choosing  for  its  range  the  most  remote  and  inaccessible  at  the  sources 
of  thd  Missouri.  They  have  horns  of  prodigious  size  ; and  are  rather 
larger,  than  the  deer.  They  are  covered  with  a wool,  like  fur,  in  some  parts 
white,  and  in  others  brownish.  Their  range  is  so  solitary,  and  difficult  of 
access,  that  they  are  not  often  killed. 

Prairie  dog,  arctomys  Ludovicicma.  This  animal  has  received  its  ab» 
surd  name  from  the  supposed  similarity  of  its  peculiar  cry,  or  note,  to 
the  barking  of  a dog.  In  other  respects  there  is  little  resemblance  to 
that  animal.  It  is  of  reddish  brown  color,  interspersed  with  some  gray 
and  black.  The  color  of  the  underside  of  the  body  is  not  unlike  that  of 
the  skunk.  It  has  rather  a wide  and  large  head,  short  ears,  black  whis- 
kers, and  a sharp  and  compressed  nose.  It  something  exceeds  twice  the 
size  of  a common  gray  squirrel.  One  of  them  measured  from  the  tip  of 
the  nose  to  the  extremity  of  the  tail  nineteen  inches.  Like  the  beaver,  they 
are  social  and  gregarious,  living  on  the  dry  prairies  in  large  communities, 
some  of  which  occupy  a circuit  of  miles.  They  live  in  burrows  ; and  at 
the  entrance,  there  is  a mound,  formed  by  the  earth,  which  they  bring  up 
in  the  excavation.  In  whatever  direction  they  move,  they  have  well  beaten 
highways,  from  which  every  impediment  is  carefully  removed.  There 
are  several  occupants,  probably  all  of  the  same  family,  of  one  burrow.  In 
mild  weather  they  are  seen  sporting  about  the  mouths  of  their  habitations, 
and  seem  to  have  much  of  the  sprightliness,  activity,  and  spirit  of  defi- 
ance, of  the  squirrel.  At  the  apprehended  approach  of  danger,  they  raise 
that  peculiar  bark,  from  which  they  have  derived  their  name.  On  the 
nearer  approach  of  danger,  they  relinquish  their  vaporing,  and  retreat  to 
their  dens.  They  are  said  seldom  to  require  drink,  and  to  remain  torpid 
in  their  burrows  through  the  winter.  When  overtaken,  away  from  its 
home,  this  little  animal  shows  all  the  impotent  fierceness  of  a small  cur. 
But  when  taken,  it  easily  domesticates,  and  becomes  gentle  and  affec- 
tionate.* 

Birds.  This  valley,  embracing  all  the  varieties  of  the  climate  of  the 
country  east  of  the  mountains,  might  be  supposed  to  have  the  same  birds, 
and  those  birds  the  same  habits.  The  former  is  true,  and  the  latter  is  not. 
We  have  noted  no  birds  in  the  Atlantic  country,  that  we  have  not  seen 


*For  catalogue  of  beasts,  see  Appendix,  table  No.  IV. 


70 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


here.  We  have  many,  that  are  not  seen  there  ; and  those,  that  are  com- 
mon to  both  regions,  have  not  the  same  habits  here,  as  there.  We  have, 
no  doubt,  that  cultivation  and  the  habitancy  of  civilized  men  affect  the 
habits,  and  even  the  residence  of  birds.  There  are  many  in  the  more 
populous  and  cultivated  regions  beyond  the  mountains,  that  seem  to  be- 
long to  orchards  and  gardens,  and  that  appear  to  exult  and  be  at  home 
only  in  the  midst  of  fruit  arbors,  and  groves  reared  by  art  and  luxury.  It 
is  remarked  in  the  more  populous  and  cultivated  districts  of  the  West,  that 
in  proportion,  as  the  wilderness  disappears,  and  is  replaced  by  apple,  pear 
peach  and  plumb  trees,  and  fruit  gardens,  the  birds,  which  cheered  the 
infancy  of  the  immigrants,  and  whose  notes  are  associated  in  recollection 
with  the  charms  of  youthful  existence,  and  the  tender  remembrances  of 
the  natal  spot,  and  a distant  and  forsaken  country,  are  found  among  the 
recent  orchards.  Every  immigrant,  especially,  who  was  reared  in  New 
England,  remembers  the  magpie  or  boblink,  the  bird  of  half  formed  leaves, 
of  planting,  and  the  freshness  of  spring. — He  remembers  to  have  heard 
them  chattering  in  the  woods,  almost  to  tiresomeness.  They  are  occa- 
sionally seen  in  the  middle  and  northern  regions  of  this  valley.  They 
are  seldom  heard  to  sing,  and  are  only  known  by  the  lover  of  nature,  who 
hears  in  the  air,  as  they  pass  over  his  head,  the  single  note,  which  they 
utter  at  the  East,  when  they  are  leaving  that  country.  Some  years  since,  in 
Missouri,  we  saw  a number  of  the  males  gathered  on  a spray,  in  the  midst 
of  a low  prairie,  of  a sunny  morning,  after  a white  frost.  They  were  chat- 
tering away  in  their  accustomed  style.  But  they  djd  but  half  carry 
out  the  song,  that  we  used  to  hear  in  the  meadows  of  New  England, 
leaving  a painful  break  in  the  middle,  and  reminding  us  of  the  beauti- 
ful passage  in  the  psalms,  touching  the  exiles  on  the  streams  of  Babylon. 

Robin,  tardus  migratorius.  The  robin-redbreast  in  the  northern 
Atlantic  country  is,  more  than  any  other,  the  bird  of  orchards  and  gardens, 
and  is  there  almost  identified  with  the  domestic  affections  of  man. 
This  delightful  bird,  in  many  places  protected  from  the  gun  by  public 
feeling,  sings  there  such  an  unpretending,  and  yet  sweet  song,  that  the 
inhabitants  need  not  regret  wanting  the  nightingale.  In  the  West,  this 
bird  makes  annual  visits;  and  is  seen  in  the  autumn,  the  winter  and 
spring,  but  never,  at  least  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  valley,  in  the 
summer.  Thousands  winter  in  Louisiana,  and  perch  by  night  in  the 
thick  cane  brakes,  and  are  killed  with  a stick.  In  the  middle  regions, 
they  visit  the  country  in  the  autumn,  to  feed  on  the  berries  of  the  spice, 
wood,  laurus  bengoin.  They  are  recently  heard  beginning  to  sing  in 
the  orchards. 

The  thrasher,  turdus  rufus , the  perwink,  turdus  fuscus , and  the  blue- 
bird, are  in  numbers,  habits  and  song,  as  at  the  north,  except  that  the  blue- 
bird is  heard  every  pleasant  day  through  the  winter. 


BIRDS.  71 

The  splendid  plumage,  the  bold  habits,  and  the  shrill  scream  of  the 
bluejay,  are  alike  familiar  to  the  woods  of  Canada  and  the  Sabine. 

Mocking-bird,  turdus  Orpheus , vel  polyglottus , is  seen  in  the  middle 
and  southern  Atlantic  states;  but  is  far  more  frequent  in  this  valley.  Its 
gay,  voluble  and  jerky  note,  imitating  that  of  all  other  birds,  and  heard  at 
all  seasons  of  the  year,  renders  it  a delightful  tenant  of  the  southern 
woods.  It  breeds  in  thorn  bushes,  and  among  the  arbors  of  the  briar 
vines ; and  delights  to  sit  on  the  tops  of  chimneys,  darting  perpendicu- 
larly, as  if  in  a frolic,  high  into  the  air  above,  and  descending  by  the 
same  movement,  singing  its  gayest  strain,  all  the  while;  It  is  a bird  of 
sober  plumage,  and  from  its  delicate  structure,  rather  difficult  to  rear 
in  a cage. 

Redbird,  cardinalis  Virginiana.  The  range,  frequency  and  habits  of 
this  most  beautiful  bird  are  the  same  with  the  former.  Its  note  has  but 
little  range;  We  have  not  heard  it  sing  more  than  five  notes;  but  its 
whistle  is  clear,  mellow  and  delightful.  It  appears  not  to  regard  orchards^ 
or  human  habitancy,  but  pours  its  song  in  the  deep  forests.  The  traveller 
is  .cheered,  as  he  rides  along  the  bottoms,  especially  in  sunny  mornings, 
after  frosts  in  the  winter,  by  hearing  this  song  softening  the  harsh 
screaming  of  the  jay.  The  male,  after  moulting,  is  of  a most  brilliant 
scarlet,  with  a fine  crest,  and  a bill  of  the  appearance  of  ivory. 

Nightingale  sparrow,  fringilla  melodia,  a very  diminutive  sparrow  with 
plain  plumage,  but  pours  from  its  little  throat  a powerful  song,  like  that 
of  the  nightingale;  In  the  southern  regions  of  the  valley,  like  the  mock- 
ing-bird, this  bird  sings  through  the  warm  nights  of  summer,  except  during 
the  darkness  and  the  dawn  of  morning. 

Goldfinch,  turdus  aurocapillus.  We  have  doubted,  if  this  were  the 
same  bird  with  that,  so  called,  in  the  Atlantic  country.  It  is  not  so 
brilliant  in  plumage,  and  has  not  exactly  the  same  whistle ; but  is  here  a 
gay  and  cheering  bird  in  appearance  and  note.  It  builds  the  same  hang- 
ing nest,  with  the  bird,  so  called,  at  the  north. 

Parroquet,  psiltacus  Caroliniensis.  These  are  birds  of  the  parrot 
class,  seen  from  latitude  40°  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  Their  food  is  the 
fruit  of  the  sycamore,  and  their  retreat  in  the  hollow  of  that  tree.  They 
are  a very  voracious  bird,  preying  on  apples,  grapes,  and  figs,  and  all 
kinds  of  fruit.  They  fly  in  large  flocks,  and  are  seen  in  greatest  numbers 
before  a storm,  or  a great  change  in  the  weather.  They  have  hooked,  ivory 
bills,  a splendid  mixture  of  burnished  gilding  and  green  on  the  heads,  and 
their  bodies  are  a soft,  and  yet  brilliant  green.  Their  cry,  as  they  are  flyings 
is  shrill  and  discordant.  They  are  said  to  perch,  by  hanging  by  theiF 
bill  to  a branch.  When  they  are  taken,  they  make  battle,  and  their 
hooked  bill  pounces  into  the  flesh  of  their  enemy.  They  are  very  annoy - 


72 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


ing  to  fruit  orchards,  and  in  this  respect  a great  scourge  to  the  fanner. 
We  have  seen  no  bird  of  the  size,  with  plumage  so  brilliant.  They 
impart  a singular  magnificence  to  the  forest  prospect,  as  they  are  seen 
darting  through  the  foliage,  and  among  the  white  branches  of  the 
sycamore. 

Owls.  A great  many  varieties  of  this  bird  are  found  here.  Their 
hooting  and  screaming,  in  every  variety  of  tone  and  sound,  often  imita- 
ting the  cry  of  human  distress  and  laughter,  and  sometimes  the  shrieks 
of  a babe,  are  heard  over  all  this  valley  in  the  deep  forests  and  bottoms. 
We  have  heard  forty  at  a time  on  the  lower  courses  of  the  Mississippi. 

Among  the  varieties  of  the  hawk  and  eagle  class,  the  bald  eagle  is 
often  seen  soaring  above  the  cliffs,  or  the  deep  forests. 

Swans,  geese,  ducks  of  a great  many  kinds,  herons,  cormorants, 
pelicans  and  sand-hill  cranes,  are  the  common  and  well  known  migra- 
ting water  fowls  of  this  country. — The  noise  of  their  countless  flocks, 
as  they  journey  through  the  air  in  the  spring,  to  the  sources  of  the  great 
rivers  and  lakes,  and  in  autumn,  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  is  one  of  the 
most  familiar  sounds  to  the  ear  of  an  inhabitant  of  the  West,  and  is  one 
of  his  strongest  and  pleasantest  associations  with  spring  and  autumn. 
The  noise  of  migrating  geese  and  ducks,  at  those  periods,  is  also  familiar 
to  the  ear  of  an  Atlantic  inhabitant.  That  of  the  swans,  pelicans  and 
cranes  is  peculiar  to  this  valley.  The  swan  is  well  known  for  its  stateli- 
ness and  brilliant  white.  Its  migrating  phalanxes  are  in  perfectly  regular 
forms,  as  are  those  of  the  geese.  They  sometimes  join  forces,  and  fly 
intermixed  with  each  other.  Their  noise,  on  the  wing,  is  like  the  distant 
sound  of  a trumpet.  They  are  killed  on  the  rice  lakes  at  the  north,  in  the 
summer,  and  in  the  gulf  and  its  neighboring  waters  in  the  winter.  The 
younger  ones  are  as  fine  for  the  table,  as  geese.  The  older  ones  are 
coarse  and  tough.  They  are  of  use  for  their  fine  quills,  feathers  and  down. 

Sand-hill  crane,  grus  Canadensis , is  a fine,  stately  bird,  as  majestic 
-in  the  water,  as  a swan,  and  considerably  taller;  of  a perfectly  sleek, 
compact  and  oily  plumage,  of  a fine  grayish  white  color.  They  are  seen 
in  countless  numbers,  and  not  being  of  sufficient  use  to  be  the  pursuit 
of  the  gunner,  they,  probably,  increase.  We  have  seen  in  the  prairie 
between  the  Missouri  and  Mississippi,  at  the  point  of  junction,  acres 
covered  with  them,  in  the  spring  and  autumn.  They  seem,  at  a distance 
like  immense  droves  of  sheep.  They  migrate  in  company  with  the 
pelicans ; and  it  is  an  interesting  spectacle,  that  during  their  migrations^ 
they  are  seen  for  days  together,  sailing  back  and  forward  in  the  upper 
regions  of  the  air,  apparently  taking  the  amusement  of  flying  evolutions, 
and  uttering  at  the  same  time  a deep  cry,  which  is  heard  distinctly, 
when  the  flocks  are  so  high  in  the  air,  as  not  to  be  seen,  or  only  seen 


BIRDS. 


n 


when  their  white  wings  are  discerned,  as  specks  of  snow,  from  their 
being  in  a particular  position  to  the  rays  of  the  sun. 

The  pelican  is  a singular  water  fowl,  with  an  ivory  bill,  extremely  white 
plumage,  larger  in  appearance,  but  not  so  heavy,  as  a full  grown  Canadian 
goose.  They  frequent  the  lakes  and  the  sand  bars  of  the  rivers,  during 
their  migrations,  in  inconceivable  numbers.  Flocks  of  them,  reaching 
a mile  in  length,  passing  over  the  villages,  are  no  unusual  spectacle. 
Below  their  beak,  or  bill,  they  have  a pouch,  or  bag,  which  will  contain, 
it  is  said,  two  quarts.  In  the  autumn,  when  associated  with  the  swans, 
geese,  brants,  ducks,  cranes  and  loons,  on  the  sand  bars  of  the  rivers, 
from  their  incessant  vociferousness,  they  are  very  annoying  companions 
to  the  inmates  of  boats,  who  lie  to,  and  wish  to  find  sleep. 

This  being  a country  of  long  rivers,  of  frequent  lakes  and  bayous, 
and  sluggish  waters,  and  marshy  inlets  of  the  sea,  on  the  gulf  of  Mexicoj 
it  would  be  expected,  as  is  the  fact,  that  it  would  be  the  home  of  vast 
numbers  and  varieties  of  water  fowls.  No  waters  on  the  globe  show 
greater  numbers  and  Varieties,  than  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  In  the  winter, 
when  these  fowls  take  shelter  in  the  bayous,  swamps  and  prairies  of 
Louisiana,  they  are  killed  in  great  numbers  by  the  French  and  Indians. 
Water  fowls  are  abundant  and  cheap  in  all  the  markets.  Their  feathers 
and  quills  are  an  object  of  some  importance  in  commerce.  From  the 
double  annual  migrations  of  the  water  fowls,  the  inhabitants  of  the 
middle  regions  of  the  valley  have  biennial  harvests  of  them. 

Pigeons  sometimes  are  seen  in  great  flocks.  Their  social  and  grega 
rious  habits  incline  them  to  roost  together,  and  their  places  of  resort  are 
called  ‘ pigeon  roosts.’  In  these  places  they  settle  on  all  the  trees  for  a 
considerable  distance  round,  in  such  numbers,  as  to  break  off  the  branches. 

Turkey,  meleagris  gallipavo.  The  wild  turkey  is  a fine,  large  bird, 
of  brilliant,  blackish  plumage.  It  breeds  with  the  domestic  one;  and 
when  the  latter  is  reared  near  the  range  of  the  former,  it  is  sure  to  be 
enticed  into  the  woods  by  it.  In  some  places  they  are  so  numerous,  as 
to  be  easily  killed,  beyond  the  wants  of  the  people.  We  have  seen  more 
than  an  hundred  driven  from  one  corn  field.  The  Indians,  and  the 
western  sportsmen,  learn  a way  to  hunt  them,  by  imitating  the  cry  of 
their  young. 

Partridge,  tetrao  perdix , the  Same  bird,  which  is  called  quail  in  New 
England.  They  breed  in  great  numbers  in  the  settled  regions,  and, 
much  as  they  are  hunted,  increase  with  the  population.  They  are  brought 
in  great  numbers  to  the  markets;  and  are  not  unfrequently  taken,  as  they 
are  crossing  the  rivers,  on  the  steam  boats.  One  of  the  standing  amuse- 
ments of  the  country  is  to  take  them,  by  driving  them  into  a net. 

10 


74 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Pheasant  is  the  same  bird,  which  is  called  partridge  in  New  England. 

It  is  not  so  common  in  this  country,  as  in  that.  It  is  something  more 
brilliant  in  its  plumage. — Though  not  often  seen,  it  is  frequently  heard 
drumming  on  the  logs  in  the  deep  forests. 

Prairie  hen,  tetrao  pratensis , is  seen  in  great  flocks  in  the  prairies  of 
Missouri  and  Illinois,  in  the  autumn.  It  is  rather  larger,  than  the  domes- 
tic hen.  In  flight,  it  appears  like  the  pheasant  and  pratridge,  and  is  a 
beautiful  bird.  It  lights  on  barns,  and  hovers  about  corn  fields.  When 
the  corn  is  not  gathered,  until  in  the  winter,  as  often  happens  in  the  West, 
flocks  of  these  birds  are  apt  to  prey  upon  it.  It  is  easily  tamed  and 
domesticated.  The  flesh  has  the  flavor  and  color  of  the  wild  pigeon. 

Hunters  assert,  that  there  is  another  bird  of  the  pheasant  class,  at  the 
sources  of  the  Missouri,  of  the  size  of  a turkey. 

Humming-bird,  trochilus.  They  are  of  two  colors — olive  and  green. 

Reptiles.  Animals  of  the  serpent,  turtle  and  frog  class  do  not 
materially  differ  from  those,  of  the  same  parallels  in  the  Atlantic  country. 

All  the  varieties  of  the  rattle  snake,  crotalus  horridus , are  seen,  in 
some  places  in  pernicious  abundance.  The  yellow  rattle  snake  is  the 
largest  of  the  species.  It  is  sometimes  seen,  as  large  as  a man’s  leg? 
and  from  six  to  nine  feet  in  length.  A species  of  small  rattle  snake  is 
sometimes  seen  in  great  numbers  on  the  prairies.  It  is  said,  in  the 
regions  far  to  the  west,  to  consort  with  prairie  dogs,  and  to  inhabit  the 
same  burrows.  There  is  a very  troublesome  species,  called  snappers,  or 
ground  rattle  snakes.  They  travel  in  the  night,  and  frequent  roads  I 
and  house  paths. 

The  copper  head  is  a terrible  serpent,  deemed  to  inflict  a more  danger- 
ous bite,  than  the  rattle  snake ; It  inhabits  the  same  region,  but  is  not  so  j 

common  as  the  former.  It  has  a dirty  brown  color;  and  when  it  has  j 

recently  shed  its  skin,  some  parts  of  its  body  resemble  burnished  copper,  j 

whence  it  derives  its  name.  It  is  of  a smaller  size  than  the  rattle  snake.  j 

Moccasin  snake.  There  are  three  or  four  varieties  of  this  serpent, 
inhabiting  the  southern  country.  The  upland  moccasin  has  many  aspects 
in  common  with  the  rattle  snake,  but  is  a serpent  still  more  repulsive  j 

in  appearance.  They  are  sometimes  of  great  size;  and  their  fang  teeth 
are  the  largest  and  longest,  that  we  have  seen.  They  are  most  often  seen 
basking  among  the  bastard  cane.  The  water  moccasins,  as  their  name 
imports,  are  water  snakes.  The  largest  variety  resembles  the  water 
snake  of  the  Atlantic  country.  It  has  a very  large,  flat  head,  and  is 
thence  called  by  the  French, £ tete  plat?  It  opens  its  upper  jaw  at  right 
angles  to  the  under  one.  It  has  a ground  colored,  scaly  back ; and  in 


REPTILES. 


75 


point  of  venom,  it  is  classed  with  the  rattle  snake.  There  is  another 
species  of  the  moccasin,  rarely  seen  out  of  the  water,  of  a brilliant 
copper  color,  with  annular,  gray  stripes,  marking  off  compartments  at 
equal  distances. 

Brown  viper,  or  hissing  snake.  It  is  of  a dirty  brown  color,  from  six 
to  eight  inches  long;  with  a body  large  in  proportion,  and  terminating 
abruptly  in  a sharp  tail.  When  angry,  their  backs  change  color,  and 
their  heads  flatten,  and  dilate  to  twice  the  common  extent,  and  their  hiss 
is  like  that  of  a goose.  They  are  extremely  ugly  animals;  and,  though 
very  diminutive,  are  supposed  to  be  of  the  most  venomous  class.  We 
confined  one  by  a "stick  across  its  back,  and  it  instantly  bit  itself  in  two 
or  three  places.  We  gave- it  liberty,  and  observed  its  movements.  It 
soon  became  very  much  swollen,  and  died. 

Horn  snake.  Judge  Bullit,  of  Arkansas,  informed  us,  that  he  killed 
one  of  these  serpents  in  his  smoke  house.  He  described  the  serpent,  as 
of  a moderate  size,  blackish  color,  and  with  a thorn  in  the  tail,  resembling 
that  of  a dunghill  cock.  From  its  movements,  he  judged  it  to  be  its 
weapon  of  defence.  We  have  heard  others,  who  have  killed  or  seen  this 
serpent,  describe  it.  We  have  heard  many  of  the  common  reports  of  its 
deadly  venom,  but  never  have  known  a single  attested  proof;  and  we 
consider  them  all  entirely  fabulous. 

We  have  neither  the  information,  nor  space,  to  enable  us  to  be  minute 
in  our  catalogue  and  description  of  these  loathsome  and  dreaded  reptiles. 
We  have  seen  six  or  eight  species,  that  we  never  saw  in  the  Atlantic 
country ; and  we  consider  the  southern  parts  of  this  region  more  infested 
with  serpents,  than  that.  Perhaps  we  might  except  from  this  remark  the 
southern  Atlantic  country.  Wherever  the  population  becomes  dense, 
the  swine  prey  upon  them,  and  they  quickly  disappear.  The  most  per  • 
manent  and  dangerous  resorts  of  these  reptiles  are  near  the  bases  of 
rocky  and  percipitous  hills,  about  ledges  and  flint  knobs,  and,  in  the 
lower  and  southern  country,  along  the  bayous,  and  near  those  vast 
swamps,  that  can  not  be  inhabited  for  ages.  People  are  often  bitten  by 
these  terrible  animals.  The  pain  is  excruciating;  and  the  person,  that 
is  badly  bitten,  swells,  and  soon  becomes  blind.  The  more  venomous  of 
the  serpents  themselves  become  blind,  during  the  latter  part  of  summer. 
They  are  then,  of  course,  less  apt  to  strike  their  aim;  but  their  bite,  at 
this  period,  is  more  dangerous.  The  people  suppose  this  blindness 
occasioned  by  the  absorption  of  their  own  poison  into  their  system. 

Whether  it  be,  that  the  numerous  remedies,  that  are  prescribed  here, 
are  really  efficacious,  or  whether,  as  to  us  appears  more  probable,  the 
bite  of  these  venomous  reptiles  is  not  fatal,  unless  the  poison  is  conveyed 
into  some  leading  vein,  from  whatever  cause  it  be,  it  so  happens,  that 


76 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


few  fatalities  occur  from  this  cause.  We  have  seen  great  numbers,  that 
have  been  bitten  by  rattle  snakes,  or  copper  heads,  or  moccasins ; and  we 
have  never  seen  a fatal  case.  We  read,  indeed,  of  a most  tragical  occur- 
rence, more  horrible  in  the  relation,  than  the  ancient  fiction  of  Laocoon. 
An  immigrant  family  inadvertently  fixed  their  cabin  on  the  shelving 
declivity  of  a ledge,  that  proved  a den  of  rattlesnakes.  Warmed  by  the 
first  fire  on  the  hearth  of  the  cabin,  the  terrible  reptiles  issued  in  numbers, 
and  of  course  in  rage,  by  night  into  the  room,  where  the  whole  family 
slept.  As  happens  in  those  cases,  some  slept  on  the  floor,  and  some  in 
beds.  The  reptiles  spread  in  every  part  of  the  room,  and  mounted  on 
every  bed.  Children  were  stung  in  the  arms  of  their  parents,  and  in 
each  other’s  arms.  Imagination  dares  not  dwell  on  the  horrors  of  such 
a scene.  Most  of  the  family  were  bitten  to  death;  and  those,  who 
escaped,  finding  the  whole  cabin  occupied  by  these  horrid  tenants, 
hissing,  and  shaking  their  rattles,  fled  from  the  house  by  beating  off  the 
covering  of  the  roof,  and  escaping  in  that  direction. 

It  would  be  impossible  to  enumerate  all  the  remedies,  that  are  pre- 
scribed here,  for  the  bite  of  these  reptiles.  It  is  a received  maxim,  that 
the  application  of  volatile  alkali,  internally,  and  to  the  wound,  neutralizes, 
the  poison,  and  is  a certain  cure. 

Of  harmless  serpents,  this  country  has  the  usual  varieties, — as  the 
green,  garter,  chicken,  and  coach-whip  snakes. 

We  have  often  seen  the  glass  snake,  with  a body  of  the  most  lustrous 
brilliance.  A stroke  across  the  back  separates  the  body  into  a number 
of  pieces.  Each  of  these  pieces  preserves  for  some  time  the  power 
of  loco-motion,  and  continues  to  move.  The  people  believe,  that  these 
pieces  soon  meet,  and  unite,  and  become  as  before  the  separation. 

Bull,  or  prairie  snake,  is  one  of  great  size,  and  horrid  appearance. 
It  is  common  on  the  prairies,  lives  in  holes  in  the  ground,  and  runs 
at  the  passing  traveller  with  a loud  hiss;  but  if  he  stands,  it  instantly 
retreats  to  its  hole.  It  is  perfectly  harmless;  though  such  is  its  size, 
boldness  and  formidable  appearance,  that  it  is  long,  before  the  resident 
in  these  regions  gets  over  his  horror  of  it. 

Lizzards,  lacerta . Ugly  animals  of  this  kind  are  seen,  in  greater 
or  less  numbers,  in  all  the  climates.  They  are  found  under  cotton  logs, 
and  are  dug  from  the  rich  and  muddy  alluvions.  These  last  are  lazy 
and  loathsome  animals,  and  are  called  e ground  puppies.’  We  never 
saw  any  disposition  in  them  to  bite,  Common  small  lizzards  are  frequent 
in  the  southern  districts,  running  along  the  logs,  and  making  just  such  a 
sound  as  the  rattle  snake,  when  he  gives  his  warning. 

There  are  varieties  of  small  camelions.  They  are  apparently  harmless 
animal®;  though  when  we  have  caught  them,  they  showed  every  disposi 


REPTILES. 


77 


lion  to  bite.  They  will  change  in  half  an  hour  to  all  the  colors  of  the 
prism.  Green  seems  to  be  their  favorite  color,  and  when  on  a green  tree, 
that  is  their  general  hue.  While  in  this  color,  the  under  part  of  their 
neck  becomes  a beautiful  scarlet.  Their  throat  swells,  and  they  emit  a 
sharp  note,  like  that  of  one  of  the  larger  kinds  of  grasshoppers,  when 
singing.  We  have  placed  them  on  a handkerchief,  and  they  have  gradu- 
ally assumed  all  its  colors.  Placed  on  a black  surface,  they  become 
brown ; and  they  evidently  suffer  while  under  this  color,  as  is  manifested 
by  uneasy  movements,  and  by  strong  and  quick  palpitations,  visible  to 
the  eye.  They  are  very  active  and  nimble  animals,  three  or  four  inches 
in  length. 

Scorpions  are  lizzards  of  a larger  class,  and  flatter  heads.  They  are 
animals  of  an  ugly  appearance,  and  are  deemed  very  poisonous.  We 
could  not  learn,  however,  that  any  person  had  been  known  to  be  bitten 
by  them.  When  attacked,  they  show,  indeed,  the  anger  and  the  habits  of 
serpents,  vibrating  a fiery  and  forked  tongue,  and  biting  with  great  fury 
at  the  stick,  which  arrests  them. 

What  is  here  called  tarantula,  is  a huge  kind  of  spider,  estimated  to 
inflict  a dangerous  bite. 

The  copper  colored  centipede  is  of  a cylindrical  form,  and  oftentimes 
of  the  size  and  length  of  a man’s  finger.  A family  is  said  to  have  been 
poisoned,  by  taking  tea,  in  which  one  of  them  had  been  inadvertently 
boiled. 

Alligator  is  the  most  terrible  animal  of  this  class.  This  large  and 
powerful  lizzard  is  first  seen  in  numbers,  in  passing  to  the  south,  on  the 
the  Arkansas,— that  is  to  say,  a little  north  of  33°;  and  this  is  its  general 
northern  limit  across  the  valley.  Yast  numbers  are  seen  in  the  slow 
streams  and  shallow  lakes  of  Florida  and  Alabama;  but  they  abound  most 
on  Red  river,  the  Mississippi  lakes,  and  the  bayous  west  of  that  river. 
Forty  have  been  seen  at  one  time  on  a muddy  bar  of  Red  river.  On 
these  sleeping  waters,  the  cry  of  a sucking  pig  on  the  banks  will  draw 
a shoal  of  them  from  their  muddy  retreats  at  the  bottom.  The  largest 
measures  something  more  than  sixteen  feet  from  the  snout  to  the  ex- 
tremity of  the  tail.  They  have  at  times,  especially  before  stormy 
weather,  a singular  roar,  or  bellow,  not  exactly,  as  Bartram  has  describ- 
ed it,  like  distant  thunder,— but  more  like  the  half  suppressed  roarings  of 
a bull.  When  moving  about  on  their  customary  vocations  in  the 
water,  they  seem  like  old  logs  in  motion.  In  fine  weather  they  doze  in 
listlessness  on  the  sandbars.  Such  is  their  recklessness,  that  they  allow 
the  people  on  the  passing  steam  boats  to  come  within  a few  paces  of 
them.  The  ascent  of  a steam  boat  on  an  aligator  stream,  at  the  proper 
season,  is  a continual  discharge  of  rifles  at  them.  A rifle  ball  will  glance 


78 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


from  their  bodies,  unless  they  are  hit  in  a particular  direction  and  place- 
We  witnessed  the  shots  of  a man,  who  killed  them  nine  times  in  ten. 
They  are  not,  like  tortoises,  and  other  amphibious  animals,  tenacious  of 
life,  but  bleed  profusely,  and  immediately  expire,  when  mortally  wounded. 
They  strike  with  their  tails,  coiled  into  the  section  of  a circle ; and  this 
blow  has  great  power.  The  animal  stricken,  is  by  the  same  blow  pro- 
pelled towards  their  mouth,  to  be  devoured.  Their  strength  of  jaws  is 
prodigious,  and  they  are  exceedingly  voracious.  They  have  large,  ivory 
teeth,  which  contain  a cavity,  sufficiently  large  to  hold  a musket  charge 
of  powder,  for  which  purpose  they  are  commonly  used  by  sportsmen. 
The  animal,  when  slain,  emits  an  intolerable  smell  of  musk;  and  it  is 
asserted,  that  its  head  contains  a quantity  of  that  drug.  They  will 
sometimes  chase  children,  and  would  overtake  them,  were  it  not  for  their 
inability  to  make  lateral  movements.  Having  few  joints  in  their  body, 
and  very  short  legs,  they  can  not  readily  turn  from  a straight  forward 
direction.  Consequently,  they,  who  understand  their  movements,  avoid 
them  without  difficulty,  by  turning  off  at  right  angles,  and  leaving  the: 
animal  to  move  forward,  under  its  impulse  in  that  direction.  Indeed, 
they  are  by  no  means  so  dangerous,  as  they  are  commonly  reputed  to  be. 
It  is  said,  they  will  attack  a negro  in  the  water,  in  preference  to  a white. 
But  they  are  chiefly  formidable  to  pigs,  calves,  and  domestic  animals  of 
that  size.  They  are  rather  objects  of  terror  from  their  size,  strength,  and 
ugly  appearance,  and  from  their  large  teeth  a,nd  strong  jaws,  than  from 
the  actual  injuries,  which  they  have  been  known  to  inflict.  The  female 
deposits  a great  number  of  eggs,  like  a torioise,  in  a hole  on  the  sandbars, 
and  leaves  them  to  be  hatched  by  the  ardors  of  the  sun  upon  the  sand. 
When  they  are  hatched,  the  turkey  buzzards  and  the  parents  are  said 
alike  to  prey  upon  them.  Instinct  prompts  them  for  self  preservation 
to  plunge  in  the  water.  The  skin  of  the  alligator  is  valuable  for  the 
tanner. 

. Tortoises.  There  are  the  usual  varieties  of  the  Atlantic  country. 
The  soft  shelled  mud-tortoise  of  the  lakes  about  New  Orleans,  and  west 
of  the  Mississippi,  is  said  to  be  not  much  inferior  to  the  West  India  sea 
turtle  for  the  table.  Epicures,  who  are  dainty  in  their  food,  consider  the 
flesh  a great  delicacy. 

The  lower  part  of  this  valley  is  a land  of  lakes,  marshes  and  swamps; 
and  is  of  course,  prolific  in  toads,  frogs,  and  animals  of  that  class. 

The  bull  frog,  rana  bourns  vel  pipens.  The  deep  notes  of  this  animal 
are  heard  in  great  perfection  in  the  swamps  back  of  New  Orleans. 

Murena  siren  is  a very  singular  animal,  as  far  as  we  know,  undescribed 
by  naturalists.  It  somewhat  resembles  the  lamprey,  and  is  nearly  two 
feet  in  length.  It  seems  intermediate  between  the  fish  and  the  lizzard 


FISHES. 


79 


class.  It  has  two  short  legs,  placed  near  the  head.  It  is  amphibious, 
and  penetrates  the  mud  with  the  facility  of  crawfish. 

Crawfish.  There  are  vast  numbers  of  these  small,  fresh  water  lobsters 
every  where  in  the  shallow  waters  and  low  grounds  of  this  country.  By 
penetrating  the  levee  of  the  Mississippi,  they  have  more  than  once  made 
those  little  perforations  that  have  imperceptibly  enlarged  to  crevasses,  by 
which  the  inundation  of  the  river  has  been  let  in  upon  the  country. 

In  the  pine  barrens  of  Florida,  Alabama  and  Mississippi,  is  found  an 
animal,  apparently  of  the  tortoise  class,  commonly  called  a gouffre*  It 
has  a large  and  thick  shell  and  burrows  to  a great  depth  in  the  ground. 
It  is  of  prodigious  power  and  strength,  and  resembles  in  many  respects 
the  loggerhead  turtle. 

The  ichthyology  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico  and  its  waters,  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  the  waters  west  of  it,  and  of  the  northern  lakes  and  their 
waters,  has  not  been  scientifically  explored.  We  are  able  only  to  give 
that  of  the  Ohio  and  its  waters,  as  explored  and  described  by  Mr.  Rafin- 
esque.  We  remark,  however,  that  the  fishes  of  all  the  western  waters 
are  very  similar,  and  that  the  classes  of  this  table  include  most  of  the 
fishes  that  are  found  in  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  valley. 

Thoraic  Fishes.  Salmon  perch,  perca  salmonea.  A fine,  spotted 
fish,  from  one  to  three  feet  long ; flesh  white,  tender  and  well  flavored. 
Vulgar  name,  Ohio  Salmon. 

Golden  eyed  perch,  perca  chrysops.  Rock.  bass.  An  excellent  table 
fish  not  often  taken. 

Black  dotted  perch,  perca  nigro  punctata,  Black  bass.  Found  on 
the  lower  waters  of  the  Ohio. 

Bubbler  amblodon.  Buffalo  perch.  Found  in  all  the  waters  of  the 
Ohio.  Its  name  is  derived  from  the  singular  grunting  noise,  which  it 
makes,  a noise,  which  is  familiar  to  every  one,  who  has  been  much  on  the 
Ohio.  It  is  a fine  fish  for  the  table,  weighing  from  ten  to  thirty  pounds. 

Dotted  painted  tail,  calliurus punctatus.  Bride  perch,  or  painted  tail. 
A small  fish,  from  four  to  twelve  inches  long;  not  very  common  in  the 
Ohio.  More  common  in  the  small  tributaries. 

Gilded  sun  fish,  ichthelis  macrochira.  A beautiful  fish,  three  or  four 
inches  long.  Common  in  the  Ohio  and  its  waters. 

Blue  sun  fish,  ichthelis  cyanella.  Hardly  so  large,  as  the  former. 

Red  eye  sun  fish,  ichthelis  erythrops.  Red  eyes. — Length  three  to 
eight  inches. 

Eared  sun  fish,  ichthelis  aurita.  Sun  fish.  Length  from  three  to 
twelve  inches. 


i 


80  MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 

Big  eared  sun  fish,  ichthelis  megalotis.  A fine  small  fish.  Length 
from  three  to  eight  inches.  Common  in  the  waters  of  Kentucky.  Vul  - 
gar name,  red  belly. 

River  bass,  lepomis.  Common  in  the  Ohio  and  its  waters,  and  easily 
taken  with  the  hook. 

Pale  bass,  lepomis  pallida.  Yellow  bass.  From  four  to  ten  inches. 

Streaked  cheeks  lepomis  trifasciata.  Yellow  perch  one  of  the  best 
kinds  of  table  fish.  Length  from  one  to  two  feet.  Common  in  the  Ohio 
and  its  waters. 

Brown  bass,  lepomis  fiexuolaris.  Black  perch.  Length  from  one  to 
two  feet.  Like  the  former  a fine  fish. 

Trout  bass,  lepomis  salmonea.  Brown  trout.  Length  from  six  to 
twenty-four  inches.  Delicate  and  white  flesh. 

Spotted  river  bass,  lepomis  notata.  Same  vulgar  name  with  the 
former,  aud  commonly  considered  the  same  fish.  Differs  from  it  in  many 
respects. 

Sun  fish  river  bass,  lepomis  ichtheloides . White  bass. — Length  from 
four  to  eight  inches. 

Gold  ring  promoxis,  promoxis  annularis.  Silver  perch.  Length  front 
three  to  six  inches. 

Red  eye,  aglocentrus.  Green  bass.  A very  beautful  fish,  from  three 
to  twelve  inches  long. 

White  eyed  barbot,  pogostoma  leucops.  Bearded  sun  fish.  A very 
beautiful  fish,  twelve  inches  long,  and  sometimes  weighs  a pound. 

Hog  fish,  etheostoma.  Hog  bass.  Length  from  three  to  nine  inches. 

Bass  hog  fish,  etheostoma  calliura.  Minny  bass. 

Foxtail  hog  fish,  etheostoma  flab  elletta.  Foxtail. 

Black  hog  fish,  etheostoma  nigra.  Black  minny.  A very  small  fish. 

Blunt  nose  hog  fish,  etheostoma  blennoides.  A very  singular  looking, 
small  fish. 

Common  hog  fish,  etheostoma  caprodes . Length  from  two  to  six 

inches. 

Abdominal  Fishes.  Ohio  gold  fish,  dromolotus  chrysocolor.  Ohio 
shad.  Length  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches.  Is  seen  in  the  spring 
from  Cincinnati  to  the  falls  of  the  Ohio, 

Spotted  gizzard,  dorostoma  rotata.  Hickory  shad. — Length  nine  to 
ten  inches. 

Ohio  gold  herring  notemigonus  auratus.  Gold  herring.  Length  from 
four  to  eight  inches.  Flesh  tolerably  good. 

False  herring,  hyodon.  Herring.  Five  species.  Not  at  all  like  the 
herring  of  the  Atlantic  waters.  Tolerable  fish  for  the  table. 


FISHES. 


81 


Salmo,  trout.  This  species  is  found  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Mis 
souri  and  the  Ohio.  The  white  fish  of  the  lakes  has  been  sometimes 
classed  in  this  class,  and  has  been  said  to  be  found  on  the  head 
waters  of  the  Wabash  and  the  Miami. 

Alleghany  trout,  salmo  Alleghaniensis.  Found  on  the  mountain 
brooks  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela, — Length  eight  inches.  Fine 
for  the  table.  Take  the  bait,  like  all  this  species  with  a spring. 

Black  trout,  salmo  nigrescens . Rare  species.  Found  on  the  waters 
of  Laurel  hill.  Length  six  inches. 

Minny,  minnalus.  Bait  fish.  Of  these  diminutive  fish,  there  are  a 
vast  number  in  the  different  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  Sixteen  spe- 
cies have  been  noted  on  the  Ohio.  The  larger  kinds  of  them  bear  the 
name  of  shiner. 

Gold  head  shiner,  luxilus  chrysocephalus.  Gold  chub.  Length  six 
indies. 

Kentucky  shiner,  luxilus  Kentuckiensis.  Red  tail. — Fine  fish  bait. 

Yellow  shiner,  luxius  interruptus.  Yellow  chub. — Three  inches  in  length. 

Big  black  chub,  semotilus  dorsalis . Big  back  minny.  Length  three 
to  six  inches. 

Big  head  chub,  semotilus  cephalus.  Big  mouth.  Length  from  six  to 
eight  inches. 

Silver  side  fall  fish,  rutilus plagyrus . Silver  side. — Length  from  four 
to  six  inches. 

Baiting  fall  fish,  rutilus  compressus . Length  from  two  to  four  inches. 

Anomal  fall  fish,  rutilus  anomalus . Length  three  inches.. 

Red  minny,  rutilus  ruber.  A beautiful,  small,  red  fish,  two  inches  in 
length . 

Black  headed  flat  head.  Length  three  inches. 

Ohio  carp  sucker  . Length  from  one  to  three  feet.  Good  for  the 
table.  Taken  with  the  hook,  seine  or  spear. 

Buffalo  carp  sucker.  Found  on  the  lower  waters  of  the  Ohio.  Vul- 
gar name,  buffalo  perch.  One  foot  in  length.  One  of  the  best  fish  for 
the  table. 

Brown  buffalo  fish,  catostomus  babalus.  One  of  the  best  fishes  in  the 
western  waters,  and  found  in  all  of  them.  Length  from  two  to  three 
feet,  and  weighing  from  ten  to  thirty  pounds . 

Black  buffalo  fish,  catostomus  niger . Found  in  the  lower  waters  of 
the  Ohio  and  in  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  Sometimes  weighs  fifty 
pounds. 

Olive  carp  sucker.  A variety  of  the  former.  Not  so  good  for  the 
table.  Commonly  called  carp. 


11 


82 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Sailing  sucker, catostomus  velifer.  Skim  back.  Length  from  twelve  to 
fifteen  inches. 

Mud  sucker,  catostomus ■ xanthopus.  Length  from  six  to  ten  inches, 
Flesh  very  soft. 

Black  faced  sucker,  catostomus  melanops.  Black  sucker.  Length 
from  four  to  six  inches. 

Black  back  sucker,  catostomus  melanotus.  Blue  sucker.  Length 
eight  inches. 

Red  tail  sucker,  catostomus  erythrus.  Red  horse. — Length  one  foot. 

Kentucky  sucker,  catostomus  jlexuosus.  Common  sucker.  Ten  to 
twelve  inches  long.  Bites  at  the  hook,  and  is  fine  for  the  table. 

Big  mouthed  sucker,  megastomus.  Brown  sucker. — Taken  with  the 
seine. 

Pittsburgh  sucker,  catostomus  Buquesni.  White  sucker.  Length 
fifteen  to  twenty  inches.  Found  in  the  Ohio,  near  Pittsburgh.  Good 
for  the  table. 

Long  sucker,  catostomus  elongatus.  Brown  sucker.  Length  fifteen 
to  twenty  inches.  Of  the  same  quality,  and  found  in  the  same  waters 
with  the  former. 

Black  suckrel,  cycleptus  nigrescens.  Rarely  seen  in  the  Ohio  and 
Missouri.  Fine  for  the  table.  Length  two  feet. 

Cat  fish,  pimelodus.  This  is  the  most  common  fish  in  all  the  western 
waters.  Twelve  species  have  already  been  noted  in  the  Ohio.  The  vari- 
eties are  very  numerous  in  the  waters  west  of  that  river. 

They  are  without  scales,  and  of  all  colors  and  sizes.  Their  mouths, 
when  open,  are  circular.  They  are  easily  taken  with  a hook.  They  re- 
ceive their  English  name  from  the  noise  which  they  make,  when  at  rest, 
a noise  very  similar  to  the  purring  of  a cat,  and  one  of  the  most  familiar 
to  those,  who  are  used  to  the  western  waters. 

Spotted  cat  fish,  silurus  maculosus.  White  cat  fish. — Length  from  one 
to  three  feet.  Flesh  good. 

Blue  cat  fish,  pimelodus  cerulescens.  They  have  been  taken,  weighing 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  pounds. 

Silver  cat  fish,  pimelodus  argyrus. 

Clammy  cat  fish,  pimelodus  viscosus 

Clouded  cat  fish,  pimelodus  neculosus. 

Yellow  cat  fish,  pimelodus  caprius. 

Black  cat  fish,  pimelodus  melas. 

Yellow  headed  cat  fish,  pimelodus  xanihocephalus. 

Mud  cat  fish,  pimelodus  limosus . 

Mud  cat,  pilodictis.  Mud  fish.  Buries  itself  in  the  mud.  Some- 


FISHES. 


times  weighs  twenty  pounds.  Bites  at  the  hook,  and  is  good  for  the 
table. 

Yellow  back,  noturus  flava.  Commonly  confounded  with  the  yellow 
cat  fish-  but  is  a different  fish. 

Ohio  toter,  hypertelium  meter  opt  er  urn.  Length  two  or  three  inches. 
Makes  itself  a cell  by  surrounding  its  place  with  pebbles,-  hence,  from 
the  Virginia  word  £ tote,’  to  carry,  called  a toter. 

Ohio  ribband  fish,  sarcliisus  vittatus.  Length  from  six  to  twelve  inches 
Gar  fish. 

Pike,  esox.  We  have  noted  a great  many  species  of  pikes  in  the 
Ohio  and  Mississippi,  and  their  waters.  They  are  called  pike,  pickerel 
and  jack  fish,-  and  perfectly  resemble  the  fish  of  the  same  names  in  the 
Atlantic  waters.  The  Indians  of  the  Wabash  and  the  Illinois  call  them 
piccannau.  They  are  of  all  sizes,  from  half  a pound  to  twenty  pounds. 

j Esox  vittatus,  jack  fish.  White  pickerel.  Length  sometimes  five  feet. 

Gar  fish,  lepiosteus.  There  are  a great  many  varieties  in  the  western 
country.  The  alligator  gar  is  sometimes  eight  feet  in  length;  and  is 
strong,  fierce,  voracious,  and  formidable  not  only  to  the  fish,  which  he 
devours  by  tribes,  but  even  to  men,  who  go  into  the  water  near  him. 
Their  scales  will  give  fire  with  the  steel.  They  are  not  used  for  the 
table ; but  whether  this  be  owing  to  the  difficulty  of  skinning  them,  or  to 
the  badness  of  the  flesh,  we  know  not. 

Duck  bill  gar  fish,  lepiosteus  platostomus.  Length  sometimes  four 
feet.  Taken  with  the  hook,  or  the  spear;  and  is  good  for  the  table. 

White  gar  fish,  lepiosteus  albus.  Length  four  to  six  feet.  Resembles 
the  pike  in  shape. 

Ohio  gar  fish,  lepiosteus  oxyeus.  Length  six  feet. — Rarely  seen;  and 
not  good  for  the  table. 

Long  bill  gar  fish,  lepiosteus  longirostris.  Length  forty  inches. 

Devil-jack-diamond  fish,  litkolepis  adamantinus.  This  is  the  monster 
of  the  Ohio.  It  is  rarely  seen  as  high,  as  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  and  proba- 
bly, lives  in  the  Mississippi.  Length  from  four  to  ten  feet.  One  was 
caught,  which  weighed  four  hundred  pounds.  It  is  extremely  voracious  ; 
and  like  the  alligator  gar  fish,  or  lepiosteus  ferox , its  scales  will  give  fire 
with  the  steel. 

Apodial  Fishes.  Broad  tail  eel,  anguilla  laticauda.  Length  from 
two  to  four  feet. 

Black  eel,  anguilla  atterima.  Same  length  as  the  former;  and  fine  for 
the  table. 

Yellow  bellied  eel,  anguilla  xanthomelas.  Length  from  two  to  three 
feet. 


84 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Yellow  eel,  anguilla  lutea.  Length  two  feet.  This  is  the  best  of  the 
species  for  the  table. 

Atelosian  Fishes.  Sturgeon,  accipenser , There  arc  six  species 
found  in  the  Ohio. 

Spotted  sturgeon,  accipenser  maculosus.  Length  two  feet. 

Shovel  fish  sturgeon,  accipenser  platorynchnus.  Shovel  fish.  Length 
two  to  three  feet.  Weight  twenty  pounds.  Tolerable  for  the  table. 

Fall  sturgeon,  accipenser  serotimus.  Length  five  to  six  feet.  Indif- 
ferent for  the  table, 

Ohio  sturgeon,  accipenser  OJiioensis.  Length  three  to  four  feet. 

Big  mouth  sturgeon,  accipenser  macrostoma , Length  four  feet. 
Good  for  the  table.  Very  large  mouth. 

Flat  nose  double  fin,  dinectus  truncatus.  Length  two  feet.  Skin 
thick  and  leathery. 

Western  spade  fish , poly odon  folium,  is  not  eaten.  Length  from  one 
to  three  feet. 

Toothless  paddle  fish,  platinostra  edentula.  Length  three  to  five  feet, 
and  sometimes  weighs  fifty  pounds.  Indifferent  for  the  table.  The 
spatula  is  cunei-form,  eight  to  twelve  inches  long,  and  used  for  digging  in 
the  mud. 

Gourd  fish  sturgeon,  accipenser  laginarius.  Gourd  fish.  Length  two 
to  three  feet. 

Mississippi  saw  fish,  pristis  Mississippiensis , Length  three  to  six 
feet.  Twenty-six  long  sharp  teeth  on  either  side,  in  the  form  of  a saw; 
and  is  commonly  shown  in  museums. 

Spotted  horn  fish,  proceros  macculatus.  Length  two  to  three  feet, 
Horn  one  fourth  the  length  of  the  body  * 

The  fish  of  the  western  rivers  are  generally  decried  in  comparison 
with  those  of  the  Atlantic  waters.  The  comparison  has  not  been  fairly 
instituted.  The  former  are  all,  except  those  hereafter  described,  as  be- 
longing to  the  market  of  New  Orleans,  fish  of  fresh  waters;  the  latter 
chiefly  of  the  sea.  Fresh  water  fish,  in  general,  will  not  vie  with  those 
of  the  sea.  The  comparison  being  between  the  fresh  water  fish  of  the 
one  country  and  the  other,  the  latter  are  as  good  as  the  former.  The 
shad  and  salmon  of  the  Atlantic  waters,  it  is  true,  are  no  where  found 
though  we  have  fish,  that  bear  the  same  name.  Those  fine  fish  have 
their  general  habitancy  in  the  sea.  The  trout  of  Louisiana  and  Florida 
is  not  the  same  with  the  fine  fish  of  that  name,  that  is  taken  in  the  cold 
mountain  streams  of  the  northern  country  of  the  Atlantic.  It  is  a fish  of 
the  perch  class,  beautifully  marked  with  golden  stripes,  and  taking  bait 
with  a spring,  like  the  trout.  It  weighs  from  one  to  four  pounds.  It  is 


FISHES. 


85 


a fine  flavored,  solid  fish  for  the  table.  No  angling  can  compare  with 
that  of  this  fish  in  the  clear  pine  wood  streams  of  the  southern  divisions 
of  this  country.  With  fish  bait,  a barrel  may  be  taken  in  a few  hours. 

Cat  fish  of  the  Mississippi,  silurus  Mississippiensis , differs  considera- 
bly from  that  of  the  Ohio.  It  is  often  taken  weighing  over  an  hundred 
pounds. 

Buffalo  of  the  Mississippi,  buhalus  Mississippiensis , is  larger,  and  has 
a different  appearance  from  that  of  the  Ohio.  They  are  taken  in  immense 
quantities  in  the  meadows  and  lakes  of  the  Mississippi,  and  greatly 
resemble  the  Atlantic  shad. 

Perch,  perca  maculata,  is  a fine  fish,  weighing  from  three  to 
five  pounds. 

Bar  fish,  perca  argentea,  are  taken  with  a hook.  They  go  in  shoals 
in  the  southern  running  waters.  They  weigh  from  one  to  three  pounds? 
and  are  beautifully  striped  with  brown  and  silver. 

Drum,  rock  fish,  sheep’s  head,  &c.  are  large  and  fine  fish,  taken  in  the 
lakes  on  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  tliat  are  partially  mixed  with  salt  water, 
and  so  saline,  as  not  to  be  potable.  They  correspond  in  size  to  the  cod 
and  haddock  of  the  Atlantic  country;  and  are  among  the  most  common 
fish  in  the  market  of  New  Orleans. 

Spade,  or  shovel  fish,  platirostra  edentula , a mud  fish  of  the  middle 
regions  of  the  valley,  found  in  muddy  lakes.  They  weigh  from  ten  to 
fifty  pounds,  are  without  scales,  and  have  in  advance  of  their  mouths,  a 
smooth,  bony  substance,  much  resembling  an  apothecary?s  spatula,  from 
six  inches  to  a foot  in  length,  and  two  or  three  inches  in  width.  Its  use, 
apparently,  is  to  turn  up  the  mud  in  order  to  find  subsistence.  They 
are  extremely  fat,  and  are  taken  for  their  oil.  We  have  never  remarked 
this  fish  in  any  museum,  although  to  us  the  most  strange  and  whimsical 
looking  fish,  we  have  seen. 

The  pike  of  these  waters  is  precisely  the  same  fish,  as  is  taken  with 
that  name  in  the  Atlantic  streams.  A fine  fish  of  this  species,  called 
piccannau , is  taken  in  the  Illinois  and  the  upper  waters  of  the  Wabash. 

We  have  seen  one  instance  of  a horribly  deformed  animal,  apparently 
intermediate  between  the  class  testudo,  and  fishes.  It  was  in  a water  of 
the  Washita,  and  we  had  not  a fair  opportunity  fo  examine  it.  It  is  called 
toad  fish;  has  a" shell,  like  a tortoise;  but  has  the  other  aspects  of  a fish. 
It  is  said  to  be  sufficiently  strong,  to  bear  a man  on  its  back ; and  from 
the  account  of  those,  who  have  examined  it,  this  animal  must  be  a singu^ 
lar  lusus  natures. 

Alligator  gar,  a fish,  shaped  like  a pike;  but  still  longer,  rounder  and 
swifter.  Its  dart  equals  the  flight  of  birds  in  rapidity.  It  has  a long, 
round  and  pointed  mouth,  thick  set  with  sharp  teeth.  Its  body  is  covered 


86 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY® 


with  scales  of  such  a texture,  as  to  be  impenetrable  by  a rifle  bullet, 
and,  when  dry,  to  make  fire  with  steel.  It  is  a fish  of  most  outlandish 
appearance,  weighing  from  fifty  to  two  hundred  pounds.  .It  is  a terrible 
and  voracious  animal,  biting  asunder  whatever  it  can  embrace  in  its  long 
mouth ; and  is  to  us,  who  have  seen  it  in  waters,  where  we  bathed,  a far 
more  formidable  animal,  than  the  alligator.  It  is,  in  fact,  the  shark 
of  rivers. 

The  fish  of  the  gulf  shore  are  of  a very  peculiar  character, — being 
taken  in  shallow  lakes,  principally  composed  of  fresh  water,  but  having 
outlets  into  the  gulf,  through  which,  when  the  wind  blows  strongly  from, 
the  south,  the  sea  water  is  forced  to  such  a degree,  as  that  they  become 
salt,  the  fish  possess  an  intermediate  character,  between  those  of  fresh, 
and  salt  water. 

Some  of  the  kinds  and  sizes  of  the  cat  fish  are  fine  for  the  table.  The 
fishes  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  tributaries,,  generally,  are  tough,  coarse, 
large  and  unsavory.  The  trout,  so  called,  and  the  bar  fish,  are  fine.  The 
picannau,  perch,  and  other  fish  of  the  Illinois,  are  represented,  as  excel- 
lent ; and  in  that  river,  they  are  taken  in  great  abundance.  A line,  here 
called  a 1 trot  line,’  drawn  across  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  where  it  enters 
the  Mississippi,  with  hooks  appended  at  regular  distances,  took  five  hun- 
dred pounds  in  a night.  We  have  taken  in  Big  creek,  a water  of  the 
Washita,  seventy  five  trout  in  two  hours  with  the  hook.  Except  the  trout, 
the  small,  yellow  cat  fish,  the  pike,  the  bar  fish  and  the  perch,  the  fish  of 
the  western  waters  are  not  much  admired. 

Bivers.  Under  this  head  we  propose  to  describe  the  Mississippi  only, 
reserving  our  description  of  the  other,  western  rivers,  until  we  treat  of 
the  states  and  regions,  in  which  they  principally  run.  The  Mississippi 
imparts  a name  and  a character  to  the  valley.  It  has  been  described  with 
a frequency  and  minuteness,  to  give  any  new  attempt  at  delineating  it 
an  air  of  triteness  and  repetition.  But  the  very  idea  of  this  noble  stream 
is  invested  with  an  interest  land  grandeur,  which  will  cause,  that  a faithful 
account  of  it  can  never  become  trite,  or  tedious.  It  is,  in  some  respects, 
the  noblest  river  in  the  world, — draining  a larger  valley,  and  irrigating  a 
more  fertile  region,  and  having,  probably,  a longer  course,  than  any  other 
stream.  Contrary  to  the  general  analogy  of  very  large  rivers,  it  bends 
from  north  to  south,  and  traverses  no  inconsiderable  section  of  the  globe. 
It  commences  in  many  branches,  that  rise,  for  the  most  part,  in  wild  rice 
lakes;  but  it  traverses  no  great  distance,  before  it  has  become  a broad 
stream.  From  its  commencement,  it  carries  a wide  expanse  of  waters, 
with  a current  scarcely  perceptible,  along  a marshy  bed.  At  other  times, 
its  fishes  are  seen  darting  over  a white  sand,  in  waters  almost  as  transpa- 


RIVERS . 


87 


rent  as  air.  At  other  times,  it  is  compressed  to  a narrow  and  rapid 
•current  between  high  and  hoary  lime  stone  bluffs.  Having  acquired  in 
a course,  following  its  meanders,  of  three  hundred  miles,  a width  of  half 
a mile,  and  having  formed  its  distinctive  character,  it  precipitates  its 
waters  down  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony. — Thence  it  glides,  alternately 
through  beautiful  meadows  and  deep  forosts,  swelling  in  its  advancing 
march  with  the  tribute  of  an  hundred  streams.  In  its  progress  it  receives 
a tributary,  which  of  itself  has  a course  of  more  than  a thousand  leagues, 
Thence  it  rolls  its  accumulated,  turbid  and  sweeping  mass  of  waters 
through  continued  forests,  only  broken  here  and  there  by  the  axe,  ifi 
lonely  grandeur  to  the  sea.  No  thinking  mind  can  contemplate  this 
mighty  and  resistless  wave,  sweeping  its  proud  course  from  point  to  point 
curving  round  its  bends  through  the  dark  forests,  without  a feeling  of 
sublimity.  The  hundred  shores,  lavpd  by  its  waters ; the  long  course  of 
its  tributaries,  some  of  which  are  already  the  abodes  of  cultivation,  and 
others  pursuing  an  immense  course  without  a solitary  dwelling  of  civil- 
ized  man  on  their  banks  ; the  numerous  tribes  of  savages,  that  now  roam 
on  its  borders;  the  affecting  and  imperishable  traces  of  generations, 
that  are  gone,  leaving  no  other  memorials  of  their  existence,  or  materials 
for  their  history,  than  their  tombs,  that  rise  at  frequent  intervals  along  its 
banks;  the  dim,  but  glorious  anticipations  of  the  future; — these  are 
subjects  of  contemplation,  that  can  not  but  associate  themselves  with 
the  view  of  this  river. 

It  rises  in  high  table  land;  though  the  country  at  its  source  has  the 
aspect  of  a vast  marshy  valley.  A medium  of  the  different  authorities, 
touching  the  point  of  its  origin,  gives  it  to  be  in  latitude  47°  47*.  Travel- 
lers and  authorities  differ,  too,  in  the  name  of  the  lake,  or  reservoir, 
where  it  is  supposed  to  commence.  Some  name  Turtle  lake,  and  some 
Leech  lake,  as  its  source.  The  truth  is,  that  in  speaking  of  the  source 
of  the  Mississippi,  the  Missouri,  the  Nile,  and  other  great  rivers,  readers 
are  only  amused  with  fictions  and  names.  Of  a nameless  number  of 
tributaries,  it  would  be  impossible  to  say,  which  carried  the  most  water? 
or  had  the  greatest  length  of  course,  or  best  merited  the  honor  of  being 
considered  the  parent  stream.  A great  number  of  streams,  rising  in  the 
same  plateau,  and  interlocking  with  the  waters  of  Red  river,  and  the 
other  streams  of  lake  Winnipeck,  unite  to  form  the  St.  Peter’s  and  the 
Mississippi.  Different  authorities  assign  to  these  rivers  such  different 
names,  that  we  should  rather  perplex,  than  instruct  our  readers,  by 
putting  down  names,  as  having  more  authority  than  others.  The  St. 
Peter’s,  the  principal  upper  branch  of  the  Mississippi,  has  been  scientifi- 
cally and  faithfully  explored  by  the  gentlemen  of  Long’s  expedition. — - 
The  St.  Peter’s  receives  ten  or  twelve  tributaries,  some  of  them  considera- 


88 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


ble  streams,  before  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  The  principal  of 
these  are  called  Spirit,  Beaver,  Yellow,  Medicine,  Red  Wood,  Aux  Liards 
and  Blue  Earth  rivers  on  the  west  side,  and  Miawakakong  and  Epervier 
from  the  east.  The  principal  river  of  the  west  fork  of  the  Mississippi  is 
the  river  de  Corbeau.  The  other  fork,  before  its  junction  with  the  main 
river,  receives  Deer,  Meadow,  Swan  and  Savanna  rivers.  Below  Cedar 
and  Muddy  rivers,  between  45°  and  46°,  there  are  strong  rapids.  Between 
them  and  the  falls  are  Crow  and  Rum  rivers. 

With  the  common  propensity  of  travellers  to  exaggerate,  the  falls  of 
St.  Anthony,  until  very  recently,  have  been  much  overrated.  Instead  of 
the  extravagant  estimates  of  the  first  French  writers,  or  the  fall  of  fifty 
feet  assigned  to  them  by  more  modern  authorities ; the  real  fall  of  the 
Mississippi  here  is  between  sixteen  and  seventeen  feet  of  perpendicular 
descent.  Though  it  has  not  the  slightest  claim  to  compare  with  that  of 
Niagara  in  grandeur,  it  furnishes  an  impressive  and  beautiful  spectacle 
in  the  loneliness  of  the  desert.  The  adjoining  scenery  is  of  the  most 
striking  and  romantic  character;  and  as  the  traveller  listens  to  the  solemn 
roar  of  the  falls,  as  it  sinks  into  feeble  echoes  in  the  forests,  a thrilling 
story  is  told  him  of  the  love  and  despair  of  a young  Dacota  Indian 
woman,  who,  goaded  by  jealousy  towards  her  husband,  who  had  taken 
another  wife,  placed  her  young  children  in  a canoe,  and  chaunting  the 
remembrances  of  love  and  broken  vows,  precipitated  herself  and  her 
infants  down  the  falls.  Indians  are  always  romancers,  if  not  poets. 
Their  traditions  say,  that  these  ill-fated  beings,  together  with  their  canoe, 
so  perished,  that  no  trace  of  them  was  seen.  But  they  suppose,  that  her 
spirit  wanders  still  near  this  spot,  and  that  she  is  seen  on  sunny  mornings, 
carrying  her  babes  in  the  accustomed  manner  bound  to  her  bosom,  and 
still  mourning  the  inconstancy  of  her  husband. 

Above  the  falls,  the  river  has  a width  of  five  or  six  hundred  yards. 
Immediately  below,  it  contracts  to  a width  of  two  hundred  yards ; and 
there  is  a strong  rapid  for  a considerable  distance  below.  Ninety  miles 
below  the  falls,  and  between  44°  and  45°,  it  receives  Rapid  and  St.  Croix 
livers;  the  former  from  the  west,  and  the  latter  from  the  east.  The  St. 
Croix  is  reputed  to  have  a boatable  course  of  two  hundred  miles,  and 
rises  in  lakes  not  far  from  the  waters  of  lake  Superior. 

Near  44°,  from  the  west  comes  in  Cannon  river,  a tributary,  which 
enters  not  far  above  the  northern  extremity  of  lake  Pepin.  This  is  no 
more,  than  an  enlargement  of  the  river.  It  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water? 
of  some  miles  in  length,  and  broadening  in  some  places  from  one  to 
three  miles  in  width.  Nearly  at  its  lower  extremity,  it  receives  the 
Chippeway  from  the  east, with  a boatable  course  of  about  an  hundred 
miles.  Between  lake  Pepin  and  the  parallel  of  43°,  come  in  three  or 


RIVERS. 


89 


four  inconsiderable  rivers,  of  which  Buffalo,  Bluff  and  Black  rivers,  from 
the  east,  are  the  principal.  Between  43°  and  42°  are  Root,  Upper  Iaway 
and  Yellow  rivers  from  the  west,  and  La  Croix  and  Bad  Axe  rivers  from 
the  east. 

Ouisconsin  river  comes  in,  from  the  east,  about  the  parallel  of  48°, 
and  near  that  very  noted  point  on  the  river,  Prairie  du  Chien.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  considerable  tributaries  above  the  Missouri.  It  has  a boata- 
ble  course  of  more  than  two  hundred  miles,  and  interlocks  by  a very 
short  portage  with  Fox  river,  that  empties  into  Green  bay  of  lake  Michi- 
gan. In  its  progress  towards  the  Mississippi,  this  river  receives  nine  or 
ten  considerable  streams.  It  is  the  liquid  highway  of  passage  for  the 
Canadian  traders,  trappers  and  savages,  from  Mackinaw  and  the  lakes  to 
the  immense  regions  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri.  A little  below 
this,  comes  in  Turkey  river  from  the  west,  and  La  Mine  from  the  east.  It 
is  so  named,  from  its  traversing  the  country  of  the  Illinois  lead  mines. 
Lead  ore  is  dug  here,  at  Dubuque’s,  and  other  lead  mines,  particularly 
on  Riviere  du  Feve,  or  Fever  river,  probably,  with  greater  ease,  and  in  more 
abundance,  than  in  any  other  country.  These  mines  are  found  on  a range 
of  hills,  of  which  the  Smoky  mountains  are  the  highest  points.  On  the 
opposite  side  comes  in  Tote  de  Mort.  A range  of  hills,  that  stretches 
across  the  river  towards  the  Missouri,  is  probably,  all  a country  of  lead 
mines;  for  we  have  seen  beautiful  specimens  of  lead  ore,  dug  near 
the  Missouri,  where  this  range  of  hills  strikes  that  river. 

A little  below  the  parallel  of  41°,  comes  in  from  the  west  the  Wapisi- 
pinacon,  a river  of  some  magnitude  and  a considerable  length  of  course. 
On  the  same  side,  a little  lower  down,  comes  in  the  Little  Soutoux;  and 
still  lower,  from  the  east  comes  in  Rock  river,  a very  considerable,  limpid 
and  beautiful  river,  celebrated  for  the  purity  of  its  waters,  and  the  fineness 
of  its  fish.  The  lands  in  its  vicinity  are  fertile.  Among  its  principal 
tributaries  are  the  Kishwake  and  Pektanons.  Near  the  entrance  of  this 
river  into  the  Mississippi  is  the  United  States’  garrison,  fort  Armstrong. 
This  river,  like  the  Ouisconsin,  has  an  easy  communication  by  a portage 
with  lake  Michigan,  and  is  considered  boatable  for  a distance  of  two 
hundred  and  forty  miles.  Below  this  river  are  long  rapids  and  at  low 
water,  difficult  for  large  boats  to  ascend.  A little  lower  on  this  river, 
on  the  west  side,  comes  in  the  Iaway,  a stream  of  some  magnitude. 
Below  the  parallel  of  41°,  come  in  from  the  eastern  side  two  or  three 
inconsiderable  streams.  Near  40°,  on  the  west  side,  and  in  the  state  of 
Missouri,  comes  in  the  Des  Moines,  the  largest  tributary  from  the  west 
above  the  Missouri.  It  receives  itself  a number  of  considerable  streams, 
and  enters  the  Mississippi  by  a mouth  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards  wide. 
It  is  supposed  to  have  a boatable  course  of  nearly  three  hundred  miles ; 

12 


90 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


and  it  waters  a delightful  country.  On  the  opposite  side,  the  waters, 
for  a long  distance,  which  rise  near  the  Mississippi,  flow  into  the  Illinois. 
Between  the  Des  Moines  and  the  Illinois,  come  in  from  the  west  the 
Wacondah,  Fabian,  Jaustioni,  Oahahah,  or  salt  river,.  Boeuf,  or  Cuivre 
and  Dardenne  rivers.  These  rivers  are  from  fifty  to  an  hundred  yards 
wide  at  their  mouth,  and  have  boatable  courses  of  some  length. 

In  latitude  39°,  comes  in  the  Illinois  from  the  east, — a noble,  broad 
and  deep  stream,  nearly  four  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  having  a 
course  of  about  four  hundred  miles,  and  boatable  almost  its  whole 
distance.  It  is  the  most  considerable  tributary  of  the  Mississippi  above 
the  Missouri,  interlocking  at  some  seasons. of  the  year,  by  one  of  its 
principal  branches,  the  Des  Plaines,  with  the  Chicago  of  lake  Michigan, 
without  any  portage.  On  this  river,  and  some  of  the  streams  above,  the 
peccan  tree  is  found  in  its  utmost  perfection. 

A little  below  39°,  from  the  west  comes  in  the  mighty  Missouri,  which, 
being  both  longer,  and  carrying  more  water,  than  the  Mississippi,  and 
imparting  its  own  character  to  the  united  stream  below,  some  have 
thought,  ought  to  have  given  its  name  to  the  river  from  the  junction. 

Below  the  Missouri,  omitting  the  numberless  and  nameless  small 
streams,  that  come  in  on  either  side,  as  we  have  omitted  them  above,  we 
shall  only  notice  those  rivers,  that  from  their  magnitude,  or  other  circum- 
stances, deserve  to  be  named.  The  first  river  of  any  importance,  that 
enters  the  Mississippi  on  the  west  side,  below  the  Missouri,  is  the  Mar- 
amec,  that  comes  in  twenty  miles  below  St.  Louis,  a little  above  the 
parallel  of  38°.  It  is  nearly  two  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and 
has  a course  by  its  meanders  of  two  hundred  miles. 

Nearly  in  38°,  comes  in  from  the  other  side  the  Kaskaskia,  that  runs 
through  a most  fertile  and  beautiful  country  in  Illinois.  It  is  eighty 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  has  a course  of  nearly  two  hundred  miles, 
great  part  of  which,  at  some  seasons  of  the  year,  is  boatable.  On  the 
opposite  side,  enter  two  or  three  inconsiderable  streams  below  St.  Gene- 
vieve; on  one  of  which  is  a saline,  where  considerable  salt  is  made.  Forty 
miles  below  Kaskaskia,  comes  in  from  the  east  Big  Muddy.  It  is  a con- 
siderable stream,  remarkable  for  having  on  its  shores  fine  coal  banks.— 
Three  miles  below,  on  the  west  side  enters  Apple  creek,  on  which  used 
to  be  a number  of  villages  of  Shawnees  and  Delawares. 

Between  36°  and  37°,  on  the  east  side,  comes  in  the  magnificent 
Ohio,  called  by  the  French,  ‘La  Belle  Riviere .’  It  is  by  far  the  largest 
eastern  tributary  of  the  Mississippi.  At  the  junction,  and  for  an  hundred 
miles  above,  it  is  as  wide,  as  the  parent  stream.  From  this  junction,  it  is 
obvious,  from  the  very  long  course  of  the  Tennessee,  that  river  running 
into  the  Ohio  in  a direction  apparently  parallel  and  opposite  to  the 


RIVERS. 


91 


Mississippi,  that  we  can  not  expect  to  find  any  very  important  tributaries 
to  the  latter  river,  for  a considerable  distance  below  the  mouth  of  Ohio, 
on  that  side.  We  find,  in  fact,  that  the  Yazoo  is  the  only  river,  that  enters 
from  the  east,  which  deserves  mention  as  a river  of  importance.  Kaski- 
nompee,  Reelfoot,  Obian,  Forked  and  Hatchy  are  inconsiderable 
streams,  that  enter  from  the  east,  between  the  Ohio  and  the  Chickasaw 
bluffs.  Wolf  river  is  of  more  importance,  has  a considerable  length  of 
course,  and  is  fifty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 

On  the  west  side,  between  35°  and  34°.  enters  the  St.  Francis.  It  is 
two  hundred  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  has  a comparative  course  of 
four  hundred  miles ; three  hundred  of  which,  on  one  of  its  forks,  are 
considered  boatable. 

A little  above  34°,  enters  White  river,  rising  in  the  Black  mountains, 
separating  its  waters  from  those  of  the  Arkansas.  It  has  a comparative 
course  of  twelve  hundred  miles,  and  enters  by  a mouth  between  three 
and  four  hundred  yards  wide. 

Thirty  miles  below,  and  between  34°  and  33°,  comes  in  the  Arkansas, 
- — next  to  the  Missouri,  the  largest  tributary  from  the  west.  It  enters  by 
a mouth  five  hundred  yards  wide.  Its. waters,  when  the  river  is  full,  are 
of  a dark  flame  color;  and  its  course,  including  its  meanders,  is  commonly 
computed  at  two  thousand  five  hundred  miles. 

Between  33°  and  32°,  a little  above  the  Walnut  hills,  in  the  state  of 
Mississippi,  enters  from  the  east  the  Yazoo,  a river,  which  rises  in  the 
country  of  the  Indians,  and  passes  through  the  state  of  Mississippi, 
entering  by  a mouth,  between  two  and  three  hundred  yards  wide.  Below 
the  Yazoo,  on  the  same  side,  bayou  Pierre,  Big  Black,  Cole’s  creek  and 
Homochitto,  enter  the  river. 

Eighty  miles  below  Natchez,  and  a little  above  31°,  on  the  west  side 
enters  Red  river,  which,  although  not  generally  so  wide,  as  the  Arkansas, 
probably,  has  as  long  a course,  and  carries  as  much  water.  Immediately 
below  the  river,  the  Mississippi  carries  its  greatest  volume  of  water.  Even 
above  Red  river,  in  high  floods,  water  escapes  from  the  Mississippi  on 
the  west  side,  in  a great  many  places,  which  never  returns;  but  not  in 
quantity  to  carry  off  as  much,  as  Red  river  brings  in.  A league  and  a 
half  below  Red  river,  on  the  same  side,  is  seen  the  first  important  bayou, 
or  efflux,  that  begins  to  diminish,  and  convey  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico  by 
its  own  separate  channel,  the  surplus  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  the 
Atchafalaya,  which,  beyond  question,  was  the  ancient  bed,  by  which  Red 
river  made  its  way  to  the  gulf,  without  mingling  its  waters  with  the 
Mississippi.  In  high  waters,  it  is  now  supposed  to  take  off  as  much,  as 
Red  river  brings  in. 


92 


MISSISSIPPI  TALLEY. 


Twenty  leagues  below,  on  the  east  side,  comes  in  bayou  Sarah,  the 
only  stream  of  any  importance,  that  enters  below  the  outlet  of  Atchafa- 
laya.  Thence  the  effluxes  receive  all  the  waters,  that  rise  near  the 
Mississippi,  and  are  continually  dinfinishing  its  volume  of  waters.  The 
next  efflux,  below  Atchafalaya,  is  bayou  Manshac,  or  Ibberville, — an 
outlet  from  the  east  bank,  a little  below  Baton  Bouge,  through  which,  in 
high  waters,  passes  off  a considerable  mass,  through  lakes  Maurepas, 
Ponchartrain  and  Borgne,  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 

At  no  great  distance  below,  on  the  west  side,  is  another  considerable 
efflux,  bayou  Plaquemine;  and  at  some  distance  below  bayou  La  Fourche, 
a still  more  considerable  outlet.  Thence  to  New  Orleans,  the  banks  of 
the  river  are  unbroken,  except  by  crevasses.  Below  that  city,  there  is, 
no  outlet  of  any  importance,  between  it  and  the  four  mouths,  by  which 
the  Mississippi  enters  the  gulf  of  Mexico., 

It  runs  but  a little  distance  from  its  source,  as  we  have  remarked,, 
before  it  becomes  a considerable  stream.  Below  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony, 
it  broadens  to  half  a mile  in  width;  and  is  a clear,  placid  and  noble 
stream,  with  wide  and  fertile  bottoms,  for  a long  distance.  A few  miles 
below  the  river  Des  Moines,  is  a long  rapid  of  nine  miles,  which,  for  a 
considerable  part  of  the  summer,  is  a great  impediment  to  the  navigation. 
Below  these  rapids,  the  river  assumes  its  medial  width,  and  character 
from  that  point  to  the  entrance  of  the  Missouri.  It  is  a still  more 
beautiful  river,  than  the  Ohio,  somewhat  gentler  in  its  current,  a third 
wider,  with  broad  and  clean  sandbars,  except  in  the  time  of  high  waters, 
when  they  are  all  covered.  At  every  little  distance,  there  are  islands? 
sometimes  a number  of  them  parallel,  and  broadening  the  stream  to  a 
great  width.  These  islands  are  many  of  them  large,  and  have  in  the 
summer  season  an  aspect  of  beauty,  as  they  swell  gently  from  the  clear 
stream, — a vigor  and  grandeur  of  vegetation,  which  contribute  much 
to  the  magnificence  of  the  river.  The  sandbars,  in  the  proper  season? 
are  the  resort  of  innumerable  swans,  geese  and  water  fowls.  It  is,  in 
general,  a full  mile  in  width  from  bank  to  bank.  For  a considerable 
distance  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  it  has  more  than  that  width. 
Altogether,  it  has,  from  its  alternate  bluffs  and  prairies,  the  calmness  and 
transparency  of  its  waters,  the  size  and  beauty  of  its  trees,  an  aspect  of 
amenity  and  magnificence,  which  perhaps,  does  not  belong  in  the  same 
extent  to  any  other  stream. 

Where  it  receives  the  Missouri,  it  is  a mile  and  a half  wide.  The 
Missouri  itself  enters  with  a mouth  not  more  than  half  a mile  wide* 
The  united  stream  below  has  thence,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  a medial 
width  of  little  more  than  three  quarters  of  a mile.  This  mighty  tributary 


RITE11S, 


98 


seems  rather  to  diminish,  than  increase  its  width;  but  it  perceptibly 
alters  its  depth,  its  mass  of  waters,  and,  what  is  to  be  regretted,  wholly 
changes  its  character.  It  is  no  longer  the  gentle,  placid  stream,  with 
smooth  shores  and  clean  sandbars;  but  has  a furious  and  boiling  current, 
a turbid  and  dangerous  mass  of  sweeping  waters,  jagged  and  dilapidated 
shores,  and,  wherever  its  waters  have  receded,  deposites  of  mud.  It 
remains  a sublime  object  of  contemplation.  The  noble  forest  still 
rises  along  its  banks.  But  its  character  of  calm  magnificence,  that  so 
delighted  the  eye  above,  is  seen  no  more. 

From  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  its  medial  current  is  probably,  less  than 
two  miles  an  hour,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri ; and  from  one  point  to  the 
other,  except  at  the  rapids  of  the  Des  Moines,  there  is  four  feet  water  in  the 
channel  at  the  lowest  stages.  Below  the  Missouri  its  rapidity  should  be 
rated  considerably  higher,  than  has  been  commonly  done.  Its  medial  rate 
of  advance  is  perhaps  four  miles  an  hour.  The  bosom  of  the  river  is  cov- 
ered with  prodigious  boils,  or  swells,  that  rise  with  a whirling  motion, 
and  a convex  surface,  two  or  three  rods  in  diameter,  and  no  inconsider- 
able noise,  whirling  a boat  perceptibly  from  its  track.  In  its  course, 
accidental  circumstances  shift  the  impetus  of  its  current,  and  propel  it 
upon  the  point  of  an  island,  bend  or  sandbar.  In  these  instances,  it 
tears  up  the  islands,  removes  the  sandbars,  and  sweeps  away  the 
tender,  alluvial  soil  of  the  bends,  with  all  their  trees,  and  deposites  the 
spoils  in  another  place.  At  the  season  of  high  waters,  nothing  is  more 
familiar  to  the  ear  of  the  people  on  the  river,  than  the  deep  crash  of  a 
land-slip,  in  which  larger  or  smaller  masses  of  the  soil  on  the  banks,  with 
all  the  trees,  are  plunged  into  the  stream.  The  circumstances,  that 
change  the  aspect  and  current  of  the  river,  are  denominated  in  the  vocab- 
ulary of  the  watermen,  chutes,  races,  chains,  sawyers,  planters,  points  of 
islands,  wreck  heaps  and  cypress  bends.  The  divinity,  most  frequently 
invoked  by  boatmen,  seems  to  have  imparted  his  name  oftener  than  any 
other  to  the  dangerous  places  along  the  river.  The  ‘ Devil’s’  race  paths, 
tea  table,  oven,  &c.  are  places  of  difficult  or  hazardous  navigation,  that 
frequently  occur.  They  are  serious  impediments  to  the  navigation  of 
this  noble  stream  which  is  never  navigated  safely,  except  with  great 
caution.  On  the  immense  wreck  heaps,  where  masses  of  logs,  like  con- 
siderable hills,  are  piled  together,  the  numerous  wrecks  of  boats,  lying  on 
their  sides  and  summits,  sufficiently  attest  the  character  of  the  river,  and 
remain  standing  mementos  to  caution.  Boats,  propelled  by  steam  power, 
which  can  be  changed  in  a moment,  to  reverse  the  impulse  and  direction 
of  the  boat,  are  exactly  calculated  to  obviate  the  dangers  of  this  river. 

No  person,  who  descends  this  river  for  the  first  time,  receives  clear 
and  adequate  ideas  of  its  grandeur,  and  the  amount  of  water  which  it 


94 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


carries.  If  it  be  in  the  spring,  when  the  river  below  the  mouth  of  Ohio 
is  generally  over  its  banks,,  although  the  sheet  of  water,  that  is  making  its 
way  to  the  gulf,  is,  perhaps  thirty  miles  wide,  yet  finding  its  way  through 
deep  forests  and  swamps,  that  conceal  all  from  the  eye,  no  expanse  of 
water  is  seen,  but  the  width,  that  is  curved  out  between  the  outline  of 
woods  on  either  bank;  and  it  seldom  exceeds,  and  oftener  falls  short  of  a 
mile.  But  when  he  sees,  in  descending  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  that  it 
swallows  up  one  river  after  another,  with  mouths,  as  wide  as  itself  with- 
out affecting  its  width  at  all;  when  he  sees  it  receiving  in  succession  the 
mighty  Missouri,  the  broad  Ohio, St.  Francis,  White,  Arkansas,  and  Red 
rivers,  all  of  them  of  great  depth,  length  and  volume  of  water ; swallowing 
up  all,  and  retaining  a volume,  apparently  unchanged,  he  begins  to  estimate 
rightly  the  increasing  depths  of  current,  that  must  roll  on  in  its  deep 
channel  to  the  sea.  Carried  out  of  the  Balize,  and  sailing  with  a good 
breeze  for  hours,  he  sees  nothing  on  any  side,  but  the  white  and  turbid 
waters  of  the  Mississippi,  long  after  he  is  out  of  sight  of  land. 

Touching  the  features  of  the  country  through  which  it  passes,  from  its 
source  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  it  moves  alternately  through  wild  rice 
lakes  and  swamps,  by  lime  stone  bluffs  and  craggy  hills;  occasionally 
through  deep  pine  forests,  and  beautiful  prairies;  and  the  tenants  on  its 
borders  are  elk,  buffalos,  bears  and  deer,  and  the  savages  that  pursue 
them.  In  this  distance,  there  is  not  a civilized  inhabitant  on  its  shores^ 
if  we  except  the  establishments  of  Indian  traders,  and  a garrison  of  the 
United  States.  Buffalos  are  seldom  seen  below  these  falls.  Its  alluvi- 
ons become  wide,  fertile,  and  for  the  most  part,  heavily  timbered. 
Like  the  Ohio,  its  bottoms  and  bluffs  generally  alternate.  Its  broad  and 
placid  current  is  often  embarrassed  with  islands,  which  are  generally  rich 
alluvial  lands,  often  containing  from  five  hundred  to  a thousand  acres, 
and  abounding  with  wild  turkies  and  other  small  game.  For  one  hun- 
dred miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  it  would  be  difficult  for 
us  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  beauty  of  the  prairies,  skirting  this  noble 
river.  They  impress  the  eye,  as  a perfect  level;  and  are  in  summer  cov- 
ered with  a luxuriant  growth  of  grass  and  flowers,  without  a tree  or  a 
bush.  We  have  made  our  way  through  them  with  difficulty  on  horseback 
through  grass  and  flowers,  as  high  as  our  head.  At  other  times,  we 
traversed  hundreds  of  acres  of  a clean,  short  grass,  of  the  character  and 
appearance  of  the  handsomest  meadows,  intended  for  the  scythe.  When 
this  deep  prairie  skirts  the  river  on  one  side,  a heavy  timbered  bottom 
bounds  it  on  the  other.  Generally  from  the  slightest  elevation  on  either 
side,  the  sweep  of  the  bluffs,  corresponding  to  the  curves  of  the  river,  are 
seen  in  the  distance,  mixing  with  the  blue  of  the  sky. 


RIVERS.  95 

Above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  to  the  rapids  of  Des  moines,  the 
medial  width  of  the  bottom  valley,  in  which  the  river  rolls,  measured 
from  bluff  to  bluff,  is  not  far  from  six  miles.  Below  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,  to  that  of  the  Ohio,  it  is  not  far  from  eight  miles.  The  last 
Stone  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi  are  seen,  in  descending  about  thirty  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  Below  these,  commences  on  the  Missis^ 
sippi,  as  is  seen  on  the  Ohio  for  some  distance  above  its  mouth,  the 
aspect  of  a timbered  bottom  on  either  side,  boundless  to  the  vision.  Be- 
low the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  the  alluvion  broadens  from  thirty  to  fifty  miles 
in  width;  still  expanding  to  the  Balize,  where  it  is,  probably,  three  times 
that  width.  We  express  these  widths  in  terms  of  doubt,  because  three 
fifths  of  the  alluvion,  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  is  either  dead  swamp 
of  cypress  forest,  or  stagnant  lakes,  or  creeping  bayous,  or  impenetrable 
cane  brakes,  great  part  of  it  inundated;  perhaps  traversed  in  a straight 
direction  from  bluff  to  bluff,  scarcely  once  in  a year,  and  never  explored 
except  in  cases  of  urgent  necessity.  The  bluffs,  too*  are  winding, 
swelling  in  one  direction,  and  indented  in  another,  and  at  least  as  ser- 
pentine, as  the  course  of  the  river. 

Between  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  St.  Louis,  on  the  fvest  side  of  the 
river,  the  bluffs  are  generally  near  it,  seldom  diverging  from  it  more  than 
two  miles.  They  are,  for  the  most  part,  perpendicular  masses  of  lime 
stone ; sometimes  shooting  up  into  towers  and  pinnacles,  presenting  as 
Mr.  Jefferson  well  observed,  at  a distance,  the  aspect  of  the  battlements 
and  towers  of  an  ancient  city.  Sometimes  the  river  sweeps  the  bases  of 
these  perpendicular  bluffs,  as  happens  at  the  Cornice  rocks  and  at  the 
cliffs  above  St.  Genevieve.  They  rise  here,  between  two  and  three  hum 
dred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  There  are  many  imposing  specta-^ 
cles  of  this  sort,  near  the  western  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  in  this 
distance. 

We  may  mention  among  them  that  gigantic  mass  of  rocks  forming  a 
singular  island  in  the  river,  called  the  6 Grand  Tower;’  and  the  shot 
tower  at  Herculaneum. 

On  the  eastern  side  in  this  distance,  the  bluffs  diverge  to  a considerable 
distance  from  the  river,  and  bound  the  American  bottom,  leaving  an  allu^ 
vial  belt,  divided  into  nearly  equal  divisions  of  timbered  lands,  and 
smooth  prairies.  This  belt  has  a medial  width  of  six  miles,  and  is  noted 
for  the  uncommon  fertility  of  the  soil.  The  bluffs  mark  the  boundary 
between  this  belt  and  the  hills.  They  are  as  high  and  as  perpendicular 
as  the  bluffs  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river;  and,  although  generally  at 
a distance  of  five  or  six  miles  from  its  present  channel,  they  bear  the 
same  traces  of  attrition  by  the  waters,  the  same  stripes,  marking  the 
rising  and  falling  of  the  river,  which  are  seen  on  the  opposite  side.  These 


96 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


seem  to  be  impressive  indications,  that  the  Mississippi  once  swept  their 
bases. 

Opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri*  the  American  bottom  terminates* 
and  the  bluffs  come  in  to  the  river.  The  bluffsbound  the  eastern  bank 
of  the  river  thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  From  these  bluffs  we 
contemplate  one  of  the  most  impressive  and  beautiful  landscapes  in  the 
world.  On  the  opposite  side  the  mighty  Missouri  is  seen,  bringing  its 
turbid  and  sweeping  mass  of  waters  at  right  angles  to  the  Mississippi. 
The  eye  traces  a long  distance  of  the  outline  of  the  Missouri  valley, 
bounded  on  either  side  with  an  indistinct  and  blue  line  of  hills.  Above 
it  is  the  vast  and  most  beautiful  Mamelle  prairie,  dotted  with  green 
islands  of  wood,  and  skirted  at  the  farthest  ken  of  the  eye  with  hills  and 
forests.  Above  you,  on  the  same  shore,  is  the  valley  of  the  Illinois,  itself 
bounded  by  hoary  and  magnificent  bluffs  of  a peculiar  character.  The 
river  brings  in  its  creeping  waters  by  a deep  bed,  that  seems  almost  as 
straight  as  a canal.  You  have  in  view  the  valleys  and  bluffs  of  two  noble 
streams,  that  join  their  waters  to  the  Mississippi.  You  see  the  Missis- 
sippi changed  to  a turbid  and  sweeping  stream,  with  jagged  and  indent- 
ed banks,  below  you.  You  see  its  calm  and  placid  waters  above  the 
Missouri.  On  the  opposite  prairie,  there  are  level  meadows,  wheat  fields, 
corn  fields,  smokes  ascending  from  houses  and  cabins,  vast  flocks  of  domes- 
tic cattle, — distinct  indications  of  agriculture  and  improvement  blended 
with  the  grand  features  of  nature.  There  are  clumps  of  trees,  lakes,  ponds, 
and  flocks  of  sea  fowl,  wheeling  their  flight  over  them  ; in  short,  whatever 
of  grandeur,  or  beauty,  nature  can  furnish  to  soothe,  and  to  enrapture  the 
beholder. 

From  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  the  scene  shifts,  and  the  bluffs  are  gene- 
rally nearest  the  eastern  shore;  though  on  that  shore  there  are  often 
twenty  miles  between  them  and  the  river.  They  come  quite  in  to  the 
river,  which  washes  their  bases,  at  the  Iron  banks,  the  Chalk  banks,  the 
first,  second  and  third  Chickasaw  bluffs,  Memphis,  the  Walnut  hills, 
Grand  and  Petit  gulf,  Natchez,  Loftus’  heights,  St.  Francisville  and 
Baton  Rouge,  In  all  this  distance,  bluffs  are  only  seen  in  one  place  on 
the  west  bank — the  St.  Francis  hills. 

From  the  sources  of  the  river  to  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  the  annual 
flood  ordinarily  commences  in  March,  and  does  not  subside  until  the 
last  of  May;  and  its  medial  height  is  fifteen  feet.  At  the  lowest  stages, 
four  feet  of  water  may  be  found  from  the  rapids  of  Des  Moines  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Missouri.  Between  that  point  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio, 
there  are  six  feet  in  the  channel  of  the  shallowest  places  at  low  water, 
and  the  annual  inundation  may  be  estimated  at  twenty-five  feet.  Between 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  the  St.  Francis,  there  are  various  shoal  places, 


RIVERS . 


97 


Where  pilots  are  often  perplexed  to  find  a sufficient  depth  of  water,  when 
the  river  is  low.  Below  that  point,  there  is  no  difficulty  for  vessels  of 
any  draught,  except  to  find  the  right  channel.  Below  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio,  the  medial  flood  is  fifty  feet '•  the  highest,  sixty.  Above  Natchez, 
the  flood  begins  to  decline.  At  Baton  Rouge,  it  seldom  exceeds  thirty 
feet,-  and  at  New  Orleans,  twelve. — Some  have  supposed  this  gradual 
diminution  of  the  flood  to  result  from  the  draining  of  the  numerous 
effluxes  of  the  river,  that  convey  away  such  considerable  portions  of  its 
waters,  by  separate  channels  to  the  sea.  To  this  should  be  added,  no 
doubt,  the  check,  which  the  river  at  this  distance  begins  to  feel  from  the 
re-action  of  the  sea,  where  this  mighty  mass  of  descending  waters  finds 
its  level. 

Below  the  mouth  of  Ohio,  in  the  season  of  inundation,  to  an  observ- 
ing spectator  a very  striking  spectacle  is  presented.  The  river,  as  will 
elsewhere  be  observed,  sweeps  along  in  curves,  or  sections  of  circles,  of 
an  extent  from  six  to  twelve  miles,  measured  from  point  to  point.  The 
sheet  of  water,  that  is  visible  between  the  forests  on  either  side,  is,  as  we 
have  remarked,  not  far  from  the  medial  width  of  a mile.  On  a calm 
spring  morning,  and  under  a bright  sun,  this  sheet  of  water,  to  an  eye, 
that  takes  in  its  gentle  descending  declivity,  shines,  like  a mass  of  bur- 
nished silver.  Its  edges  are  distinctly  marked  by  a magnificent  outline 
of  cotton  wood  trees,  generally  of  great  size,  and  at  this  time  of  the  year, 
of  the  brightest  verdure.  On  the  convex,  or  bar  side  of  the  bend,  there 
is  generally  a vigorous  growth  of  willows,  or  young  cotton  wood  trees  of 
such  astonishing  regularity  of  appearance,  that  it  always  seems  to  the 
unpractised  spectator,  a work  of  art.  The  water  stands  among  these 
trees,  from  ten  to  fifteen  feet  in  height.  Those  brilliant  birds,  the  black 
and  red  bird  of  this  country,  seem  to  delight  to  flit  among  these  young 
groves,  that  are  inundated  to  half  their  height.  Nature  is  carrying  on 
her  most  vigorous  efforts  of  vegetation  below.  If  there  be  wind  or  storm, 
the  descending  flat  and  keel  boats  immediately  make  for  these  groves, 
and  plunge  fearlessly,  with  all  the  headway  they  can  command,  among 
the  trees.  Should  they  be  of  half  the  size  of  the  human  body,  struck 
fifteen  feet  from  the  ground,  they  readily  bend  before  even  a frail  boat.- — 
You  descend  the  whole  distance  of  a thousand  miles  to  New  Orleans, 
landing  at  night  in  fifteen  feet  water  among  the  trees ; but,  probably,  in  no 
instance  within  twenty  miles  of  the  real  shore,  which  is  a bluff.  The 
whole  spectacle  is  that  of  a vast  and  magnificent  forest,  emerging  from  a 
lake,  with  its  waters,  indeed  in  a thousand  places  in  descending  motion. 
The  experienced  savage,  or  solitary  voyager,  paddles  his  canoe  through 
the  deep  forests,  from  one  bluff  to  the  other.  He  finds  bayous,  by  which 
one  river  communicates  with  the  other.  He  moves,  perhaps,  along 

13 

w-  ■ 

1 


98 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


the  Mississippi  forest  into  the  mouth  of  "White  river.  He  ascends  that 
river  a few  miles,  and  by  the  Grand  Cut  off  moves  down  the  forest  into 
the  Arkansas.  From  that  river  he  finds  many  bayous,  which  communi- 
cate readily  with  Washita  and  Red  river;  and  from  that  river,  by  some 
one  of  its  hundred  bayous,  he  finds  his  way  into  the  Atchafalaya  and  the 
Teche;  and  by  that  stream  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  reaching  it  more  than 
twenty  leagues  west  of  the  Mississippi.  At  that  time,  this  is  a river 
from  thirty  to  an  hundred  miles  wide,  all  overshadowed  with  forests,  ex- 
cept an  interior  strip  of  little  more  than  a mile  in  width,  where  the  eye 
reposes  oil  the  open  expanse  of  waters,  visible  between  the  trees. 

Each  of  the  hundred  rivers,  that  swell  the  Mississippi,  at  the  time  of 
high  waters,  is  more  or  less  turbid.  The  upper  Mississippi  is  the  most 
transparent  of  all  of  them  in  low  water.  But,  during  its  floods,  it  brings 
down  no  inconsiderable  portion  of  dark,  slimy  mud,  suspended  in  its 
waters.  The  mud  of  the  Missouri  is  as  copious.*  as  the  water  can  hold  in 
suspension,- — and  is  whitish  in  color,  much  resembling  water,  in  which 
fresh  ashes  have  been  mixed.  The  river  below  the  Missouri  assumes  the 
color  of  that  river.  The  Ohio  brings  in  a flood,  compared  with  the  other^ 
of  a greenish  color.  The  mixing  of  the  Waters  of  the  upper  Mississippi 
with  the  Missouri,  and  afterwards  of  the  united  stream  with  the  Ohio, 
affords  an  amusing  spectacle.  The  water  of  the  Ohio  is  not  much 
charged  with  earth,  even  at  its  inundation ; but  is  still  perceptibly  turbid. 
The  St.  Francis  and  White  rivers  at  their  floods,  are  not  much  stained. 
The  Arkansas,  when  high,  is  as  turbid,  and  holds  nearly  as  much  mud  in 
suspension,  as  the  Missouri;  and  its  waters  have  a bright  reddish  color,' 
almost  that  of  flame.  Its  Indian  name,  Ozark,  implies  Yellow  river. 
Red  river  brings  in  a turbid  mixture  of  the  same  thickness,  but  of  a 
darker  red.  After  it  has  received  these  two  rivers,  the  Mississippi  loses 
something  of  its  whiteness.  The  hills  far  up  the  Missouri,  Arkansas  and 
Red  rivers  are  washing  down.  Pillars  on  their  sides^  of  gigantic  dimen- 
sions, bright  colors,  and  regular  forms,  where  they  have  been  composed 
of  an  indurated  earth,  or  clay,  that  more  strongly  resisted  the  action  of 
rains  and  descending  waters,  are  left  standing.  We  have  seen  and  ad- 
mired these  mementos  of  the  lapse  of  time,  the  changes,  that  our  earth  is 
undergoing,  the  washing  of  waters,  and  the  influence  of  the  elements, 
Lewis  and  Clark  speak  of  these  remains  of  dilapidated  hills  far  up  the 
Missouri,  where  they  appeared  in  their  grandest  dimensions. 

The  Mississippi,  then,  may  be  considered,  as  constantly  bearing  be- 
neath its  waters  a tribute  of  the  finest  and  most  fertile  vegetable  soil, 
collected  from  an  hundred  shores,  hills  and  mountains,  and  transported 
from  distances  of  a thousand  leagues.  The  marl  of  the  Rocky  moun- 
tain, the  clay  of  the  Black  mountains,  the  earth  of  the  Alleghanies,  the 
red  loam,  washed  from  the  hills  at  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas  and 


RIVERS. 


99 


Keel  rivers,  are  every  year  deposited  in  layers  along  the  alluvion  of  the 
Mississippi ; or  are  washed  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  We  can  have  little 
doubt,  that  this  river  once  found  its  estuary  not  far  below  the  present 
mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It  was,  probably,  then  thirty  miles  wide,  and  grew 
broader  quite  to  the  gulf. — -The  alluvial  country  below,  must  then  have 
been  an  arm  of  the  sea.  The  different  bluffs  on  its  eastern  shore,  the 
Chickasaw  bluffs,  Natchez,  and  the  other  hills,  whose  bases  the  river  now 
washes,  were  capes,  that  projected  into  this  estuary.  The  banks  of  the 
river  are  evidently  gaining  in  height  above  the  inundation.  The  depos- 
ites  of  earth,  sand  and  slime  are  not  as  equal  in  their  layers,  as  we  might 
suppose;  but  might,  perhaps,  be  assumed,  as  depositing  a twelfth  of  an 
inch  in  the  annual  inundation. 

As  soon  as  the  descending  mass  of  waters  has  swept  over  the  banks, 
being  comparatively  destitute  of  current,  and  impeded,  'moreover,  by 
trees  and  bushes,  it  begins  to  deposite  a sediment  of  that  mud  and  sand, 
which  were  only  held  in  suspension  by  the  rapidity  and  agitation  of  the 
descending  current.  It  must  be  obvious,  that  the  sand  and  the  coarser 
portion  of  the  mixture  of  earth  will  subside  first ; and  that  near  the  banks 
of  the  river  will  be  the  most  copious  deposition.  We  find,  in  fact,  the 
soil  contiguous  to  the  rivers  most  sandy.  It  becomes  finer  and  more 
clayey,  as  we  recede  farther  from  the  bank,  until  near  the  bluffs ; and  at 
the  farthest  distances  from  the  river,  the  impalpable  mixture  gradually 
subsides,  forming  a very  stiff,  black  soil,  called  4 terre  graissef  and  hav- 
ing a feeling,  when  wet,  like  lard  or  grease.  Circumstances,  such  as 
eddies,  and  other  impediments,  resulting  from  the  constant  changes  of 
the  banks,  may  cause  this  earth  in  particular  positions,  to  be  deposited 
near  the  river.  Where  the  banks  have  fallen  in,  and  discovered  the  under 
strata  of  the  soil,  we  often  see  layers  of  this  earth  directly  on  the  shore. 
But  the  natural  order  of  deposition  is,  first,  the  sand ; next,  the  marl ; 
and  last  of  all,  this  impalpable  clay,  which  would  of  course  be  longest 
held  suspended. 

This  order  of  deposition  accounts,  too,  for  another  circumstance  ap- 
pertaining to  the  banks  of  this  river,  and  all  its  lower  tributaries,  that  do 
now,  or  did  formerly,  overflow  their  banks.  It  always  creates  surprise  at 
first  view  to  remark,  that  all  these  rivers  have  alluvions,  that  are  highest 
directly  on  the  banks,  and  slope  back  like  a natural  glacis,  towards  the 
bluffs.  There  are  a thousand  points,  between  the  mouth  of  Ohio 
and  New  Orleans,  where,  at  the  highest  inundation,  there  is  a narrow 
strip  of  land  above  the  overflow;  and  it  is  directly  on  the  bank.  But  the 
land  slopes  back,  and  subsides  under  the  overflow;  and  is,  perhaps, 
twenty  feet  under  water  at  the  bluffs.  This  deceptive  appearance  has 
induced  a common  opinion,  that  this  river,  its  tributaries  and  bayous,  in 


100 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY.  ' 


their  lower  courses,  run  through  their  valleys  on  an  elevated  ridge,  and 
occupy  the  highest  part  of  their  bottoms.  The  greater  comparative  ele- 
vation on  the  banks  notwithstanding,  we  have  not  the  slightest  doubt, 
that  the  path  of  the  rivers  is,  in  fact,  the  deepest  part  of  their  basin,  and 
that  the  bed  of  the  river  is  uniformly  lower,  than  the  lowest  point  of  the 
alluvion  at  the  base  of  the  bluffs. 

One  of  the  most  striking  peculiarities  of  this  river,  and  of  all  its  lower 
tributaries,  has  not  often  been  a theme  of  observation,  in  describing  it. 
It  is  the  uniformity  of  its  meanders,  called  in  the  phrase  of  the  country, 
‘ points  and  bends.’  In  many  instances  these  curves  are  described  with 
a precision,  with  which  they  would  have  been  marked  off  by  the  sweep 
of  a compass.  The  river  sweeps  round,  perhaps,  the  half  of  a circle,  and 
is  precipitated  from  the  point,  in  a current  diagonally  across  its  own 
channel,  to  another  curve  of  the  same  regularity  upon  the  opposite  shore. 
In  the  bend  is  the  deepest  channel,  the  heaviest  movement  of  waters, 
and  what  is  called  the  thread  of  the  current.  Between  this  thread 
and  the  shore*  there  are  generally  counter  currents,  or  eddies;  and 
in  the  crumbling  and  tender  alluvial  soil,  the  river  is  generally  making 
inroads  upon  its  banks  on  the  bend  side.  Opposite  the  bend  there 
is  always  a sandbar,  matched  in  the  convexity  of  its  conformation,  to  the 
concavity  of  the  bend.  Here  it  is,  that  the  appearance  of  the  young 
cotton  wood  groves  have  their  most  striking  aspect.  The  trees  rise 
from  the  shore,  showing  first  the  vigorous  saplings  of  the  present  year; 
and  then  those  of  a date  of  two  and  three  years ; and  trees  rising  in  regular 
gradation  to  the  most  ancient  and  lofty  point  of  the  forest.  These 
curves  are  so  regular  on  this,  and  all  the  rivers  of  the  lower  country, 
that  the  boatmen  and  Indians  calculate  distances  by  them ; and  instead 
of  the  number  of  miles  or  leagues,  they  estimate  their  progress  by 
the  number  of  bends,  they  have  passed. 

We  have  had  occasion  to  remark  this  conformation,  even  on  the  upper 
courses  of  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri ; and  that,  too,  where  the  curve 
seemed  to  have  been  scooped  out  of  solid  bluffs,  of  lime  stone.  These 
sinuosities  are  distinguished  on  the  lower  course  of  the  Ohio,  on  the  St. 
Francis  and  White  rivers,  and  they  are  remarkable  for  their  regularity 
on  the  Arkansas.  The  curves  on  Red  river  are  regular,  but  they  are 
sections  of  circles  comparatively  small;  and  the  river  is  so  extremely 
crooked  from  them,  that  its  course  is  generally  obstructed  from  view  in 
a length  of  two  or  three  miles.  All  the  bayous  and  effluxes  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  of  these  rivers,  show  the  , same  conformation  in  their 
courses.  A creole  of  the  lower  country  would  scarcely  imagine,  that  a 
river  could  move  on  in  any  other  line,  than  in  curves,  described  first  upon 
one  bank,  and  then  upon  the  other. 


RIVERS. 


101 


There  must  be,  beyond  doubt,  a general  law  for  this  uniformity  of 
conformation;  and  we  have  heard  various  demonstrations,  that  were 
intended  to  explain  it,  and  to  show,  that  a moving  mass  of  waters,  on 
the  principal  of  such  a moving  force,  ought  to  sweep  a curve  in  one 
direction,  be  propelled  from  the  point  of  that  curve,  and  then  sweep  a 
similar  one  on  the  opposite  shore.  These  demonstrations  have  appeared 
unsatisfactory  to  us.  It  has  always  seemed  to  us,  that  in  a tender  and 
alluvial  soil,  and  under  similar  circumstances,  a moving  mass  of  water, 
cutting  a course  for  itself,  would  take  the  direction  of  a right  line.  The 
common  solution  certainly  is  not  the  just  one,  that  is  to  say,  that  the 
river  finds  an  obstacle,  which  gives  it  a diagonal  direction  in  the  first 
instance;  and  that  this  law,  once  established,  continues  to  act  with  uni- 
formity, in  producing  this  alternation  of  curves.  The  courses  of  all  the 
western  rivers,  in  creating  points  and  bends,  are  far  too  uniform,  to  be 
produced  by  an  accidental  cause.  It  appears  clear  to  us,  that  the  devia- 
tions  from  this  rule  are  owing  to  accidental  causes;  but  they  are  so 
unfrequent,  that  for  the  first  three  hundred  miles  on  the  Arkansas,  we  do 
not  remember  one ; and  there  are  not  more  than  three  or  four  £ reaches,’ 
as  they  are  called,  or  deviations  from  this  rule,  in  the  Mississippi,  where 
the  river  for  a considerable  distance  preserves  a strait  course,  between 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Balize. 

It  follows  from  this  disposition  of  the  river,  to  take  its  direction  in 
deep  curves,  and  continually  to  wear  them  deeper,  that,  returning,  as  it 
were,  on  its  track,  it  will  often  bring  its  points  near  to  each  other.  It 
occurs  more  than  once,  that  in  moving  round  a curve  of  twenty-five  or 
thirty  miles,  you  will  return  so  near  the  point,  whence  you  started,  that 
you  can  return  back  to  that  point  in  less  than  a mile.  There  are  at  present 
bends  of  this  sort  on  the  Missouri  and  the  Mississippi,  particularly  at 
Tunica  bend,  where  you  move  round  a curve  of  thirty  miles,  and  come 
back  to  the  point,  where  you  see  through  the  trees,  and  at  the  distance 
of  three  quarters  of  a mile,  the  point,  whence  you  departed.  It  might 
be  inferred,  that  it  would  so  happen,  when  the  waters  on  the  upper  point 
of  the  bend  approach  so  near  those  on  the  lower  point,  that  in  high  waters 
a crevasse  would  be  made  across  the  point,  or  the  simple  weight  of  the 
descending  current  would  burst  itself  a passage  through.  In  this  case, 
the  river  soon  finds  its  main  channel  from  point  to  point;  an  island  is 
formed;  and  the  river  rushes  through  what  is  called  the  £cut  off,’  with 
great  velocity  and  power.  Such  is  the  £ Grand  cut  off,’  that  has  been 
formed  since  we  first  descended  the  river.  We  now  pass  from  one  point 
to  another,  in  half  a mile,  to  a distance,  which  it  formerly  required 
twenty  miles  to  reach.  The  c cut  off’  at  Fausse  riviere , Yazoo,  Homo- 
chitto  and  Point  Coupee  bends  are  of  this  sort.  Tunica,  no  doubt,  will 


102 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


soon  be  of  the  number ; and  many  other  bends.  Wherever  the  trees  are 
cleared  away  from  the  banks  by  cultivation,  the  soil  becomes  of  course 
more  tender  and  yielding,  and  is  easier  perforated  by  the  mass  of  moving 
waters.  Nature  is  thus  shortening  the  course  of  this  long  river.  In 
process  of  time,  the  efforts  of  industry  will  yield  their  aid  to  the  same 
result. 

When  these  changes  take  place,  the  mouth  of  the  ancient  course  of  the 
river  becomes  choked ; and  long  lakes  are  formed  called  ‘fausses  rivieres ,’ 
which,  at  the  season  of  high  water  might  easily  be  mistaken  for  the  river 
itself,  were  they  not  without  current,  and  did  they  not  soon  cover  them- 
selves with  those  aquatic  plants,  that  in  these  climates  are  always  found 
on  still  waters.  There  are  an  infinite  number  of  such  bayous  found  on  the 
lower  courses  of  the  Mississippi,  Arkansas,  and  more  than  all,  Red  river, 
where  they  form  such  an  inextricable  net  work,  that  in  high  waters  it 
requires  an  experienced  pilot  to  determine,  which  is  the  river,  and  which, 
is  the  bayou. 

The  thread  of  the  main  current  is,  as  we  have  remarked,  always  near 
the  bank  of  the  bend ; and  the  chief  undermining  of  the  banks  is  ordina- 
rily there.  As  soon  as  the  floods  of  the  river  begin  to  subside,  and  the 
waters  to  sink  within  the  banks,  the  main  thread  of  the  current,  which 
had  been  diminished  in  its  action  on  the  bank,  by  the  diffusion  of  its. 
waters  over  the  bank,  as  soon  as  they  return  within  the  channel,  acts  with 
augmented  force,  and  by  a more  uniform  action  from  the  surface  to  the 
bottom  upon  the  banks,  softened  and  diluted  by  the  recent  overflow. — . 
Hence,  immediately  upon  the  subsiding  of  the  river  within  its  banks,  is 
the  time,  when  they  are  most  apt  to  fall  in.  Then  is  the  time,  that  we  hear 
by  night  the  deep  crash  of  the  trees,  falling,  and  sinking  in  the  flood. 
Then  it  is,  that  the  land-slips  carry  in  acres  at  a time;  and  it  is  then, 
that  the  narrow  passages  between  islands  become  choked  with  trees, 
carried  along  by  the  current. 

With  one  remark  more,  we  shall  close  this  outline  of  the  Mississippi; 
which,  minute  as  it  may  have  seemed,  is  but  a brief  sketch  of  the  char- 
acter and  circumstances  of  a river,  which,  described  in  detail,  would 
-occupy  a volume.  It  is  the  most  turbid  river,  and  has  the  widest  alluvial 
bottoms  of  any,  with  which  we  are  acquainted.  We  may  add,  that  it  is 
beyond  all  comparison  the  narrowest  river,  that  we  know,  which  carries 
so  much  water.  In  width  and  show  of  surface,  it  will  hardly  compare 
with  the  St.  Lawrence.  We  have  no  doubt,  that  it  carries  the  greatest  mass 
-of  water,  according  to  its  width,  of  any  river  on  the  globe.  From  the 
quantity  of  earth,  which  it  holds  in  suspension  in  its  descending  waters, 
and  which  it  is  continually  depositing  along  its  banks,  it  will  always  be 
confined  within  a narrow  and  deep  channel.  Were  it  a clear  stream,  it 


ABORIGINES. 


103 


Would  soon  scoop  itself  out  a channel  from  bluff  to  bluff.  In  common 
with  most  of  its  great  tributaries,  it  broadens  as  it  ascends,  being,  as  we 
have  remarked,  wider  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  with  scarce  a 
tenth  of  its  water,  than  it  is  at  New  Orleans.  In  the  same  manner, 
Arkansas  and  Red  river  are  wider  a thousand  miles  from  their  mouth, 
than  they  are  at  that  point.  As  the  western  rivers  approach  their  debouche ? 
and  increase  their  volume  of  water;,  they  narrow,  and  deepen  their 
channel. 

Indians,  on  Aboriginal  Inhabitants.  Details  of  the  Indians,  that 
belong  to  the  states  and  territories  of  this  valley,  will  naturally  be  given 
under  the  accounts  of  them. — We  mean  here  to  bring,  if  it  may  be,  into 
one  group  general  views  and  outlines  of  the  race,  as  we  see  it  in  all  the 
climates  from  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico* 
Numerous  and  voluminous  treatises  have  been  written  upon  the  subject. 
We  have  read  these  treatises.  We  have  long  and  attentively  studied  the 
Indian  character.  We  have  seen  enough  of  that  character,  to  be  aware, 
that  very  few  writers  have  done  more  than  theorize,  and  declaim  upon  the 
subject.  They  have  seldom  brought  to  it  the  only  true  lights— those  of 
observation  and  experience.  We  ought  to  except  from  this  remark, 
Charlevoix  among  the  early,  and  the  gentlemen  of  Long’s  expeditiort 
among  the  recent  writers  upon  the  Indians.  The  views  of  the  latter,  in 
particular,  are  calm,  philosophical  and  just,  as  far  as  they  go.  They  do 
not  give  us  the  fruit  of  preconceived  prejudices,  or  theorizing  harangues;' 
and  we  refer  those,  who  would  take  minute,  interesting,  and  for  the  most 
part,  just  views  of  the  character  and  condition  of  the  western  Indians? 
to  their  narratives. 

The  greater  part  of  the  Indians  of  the  United  States  dwell  in  the  limits 
of  this  valley.  Within  the  bounds  of  Georgia,  Alabama,  Florida,  Mis- 
sissippi and  Tennessee,  the  southern  Indians  of  this  valley  inhabit*. 
These  nations  without  mentioning  their  subdivisions,  are  the  Seminoles? 
the  Baton  Rouges,  the  Creeks,  or  Muskogee,  the  Cherokees,  Chactaw^ 
and  Chickasaws.  The  Creeks  and  Seminoles,  before  the  late  war 
were  powerful  tribes.  Their  population  and  power  received  in  that 
War  a withering  check.  Many  of  the  Chacktaws  are  incorporated  with 
the  Quawpaws  of  Arkansas.  About  a third  of  the  Cherokee  nation  has 
emigrated  to  the  country  on  the  Arkansas,  between  the  Quawpaws  and 
the  Osages.  Many  of  the  Creeks,  or  Muskogee,  have  emigrated  west  of 
the  Mississippi.  All  these  Indians,  that  remain  east  of  this  river,  have 
adopted  more  or  less  of  cultivation,  and  the  arts  of  civilized  life.  The 
Cherokees  and  Chacktaws,  particularly  the  former,  have  been  most 
successful  in  imitating  the  habits  and  institutions  of  the  whites  They 


104 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


have  looms,  ploughs,  blacksmiths’  shops,  slaves,  enclosures,  barns^ 
taverns,  brick  dwellings  in  some  instances,  public  roads,  a census,  a code 
of  laws,  civil  divisions,  and  magistrates- — -Their  laws  have  very  little  of 
that  delay,  of  which  the  whites  complain;  but  are  severe,  energetic,  and 
promptly  administered.  They  have  many  municipal  regulations,  and 
singular  customs;  an  amusing  mixture  of  savage  and  civilized  views, 
which  afford  a study  of  no  common  interest  to  the  numerous  travellers 
that  are  obliged  to  pass  through  their  nations,  on  their  way  by  land  from 
New  Orleans  and  the  lower  states  of  the  Atlantic  country.  They  have 
numerous  taverns,  at  regular  distances,  not  much  inferior  to  those  in  the 
adjacent  country,  inhabited  by  the  Americans.  Some  of  their  planters 
have  large  enclosures,  and  fine  stocks  of  cattle  and  horses ; and  may  be 
considered  rich.  We  saw  a Cherokee  chief,  who  had  a dozen  slaves,  fine 
teams,  ploughs  and  looms,  two  or  three  wives,  and  twenty-seven  living 
children,  as  he  stated.  His  people  were  dressed,  as  are  most  of  these 
people,  in  plain  cotton  cloths  of  respectable  fabric.  The  cotton,  the 
dyeing  articles,  the  manufacturing,  and  the  whole  fabric,  from  beginning 
to  end,  were  within  themselves.  There  are  a number  of  respectable 
missionary  establishments  in  their  limits ; and  they  begin  to  be  deeply 
impressed  with  the  importance  of  education.  They  have  been  making 
great  efforts  to  establish  a printing  press  in  their  country,  and  it  is  now 
in  operation. 

In  the  northern  parts  of  Ohio  and  Indiana,  and  near  lakes  Erie  and 
Michigan,  is  an  establishment  of  the  Shawnese,- — a tribe  formerly  so 
powerful,  and  now  hastening  to  decay.  There  was  an  important  mis- 
sionary station  among  them,  which  is  removed  to  Michigan  territory. 
Ohio,  that  once  contained  such  a numerous  Indian  population,  is  com- 
puted at  present  to  contain  about  two  thousand,  principally  Shawnese. 
The  Pottawatomies  and  Kickapoos,  in  Indiana  and  Illinois,  are  number* 
ed,  the  former  at  two  hundred  and  fifty,  and  the  latter  at  six  hundred. 
The  Peorias,  Kaskakias  and  Cahokias,  that  figured  so  much  in  the  early 
French  history  of  this  country,  are  nearly  extinct.  The  Wyandots,  Chip* 
peways  and  Winnebagos  hunt  farther  to  the  northwest,  and  extend  their 
range  to  Lake  Superior.  The  Chippeways  may  be  considered  a patriar* 
chal  nation,  of  which  many  of  the  northern  tribes  are  branches,  and  of 
whose  language  they  speak  dialects.  There  are  other  tribes  so  nearly 
extinct,  that  there  are  not  now,  perhaps  six  individuals  to  maintain 
the  name. 

In  ascending  the  Mississippi  from  St.  Louis,  we  meet  first  with  the 
Sacks,  or  as  they  call  themselves,  Saukies,  and  Foxes,  or  Reynards. 
They  inhabit  the  country  above  and  below  Rock  river,  and  claim  the 
territory  of  the  lead  mines.  The  laways  reside  farther  up  the  river,  and 


ABORIGINES. 


105 


near  the  Des  Moines.  The  Winnebagos,  or  Puants,  inhabit  from  the 
Guisconsin  to  Green  bay  on  lake  Michigan. — They  have  the  reputation 
of  being  particularly  false  and  treacherous.  The  Menomene,  or  Folles 
avoins , inhabit  the  Menomene  to  lake  Michigan. 

Still  higher  on  the  Mississippi,  and  thence  to  the  lakes,  and  thence  to 
the  country  on  the  Missouri,  and  fir  up  and  down  that  river,  wander  the 
Sioux,  or  Dacotas.  They  are  divided  into  six  or  seven  tribes,  with  distinct 
names,  given,  as  the  French  often  fix  appellations,  from  some  poetical 
associations  with  natural  objects.  For  instance,  one  of  the  most  numer- 
ous tribes,  inhabiting  a region  of  forests,  is  called  Was-pa-tong,  Gens  des 
feuilles , or  the  people  of  leaves.  Each  of  these  tribes  has  its  distinct 
badge,  coat  of  arms,  or  what  is  called  ‘ totem  ’ among  them.  They  occupy 
a vast  range,  are  a very  numerous  people,  and,  like  the  Chippeways,  the 
parent  of  various  tribes,  whose  language,  though  radically  the  same  with 
theirs,  has  in  process  of  time  receded  so  far  from  it,  that  the  different 
tribes  require  an  interpreter  to  converse  together.  The  Dacotas  are  the 
Arabs  of  the  West. 

Surveying  the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  commencing  the 
survey  below  St.  Louis,  between  that  town  and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio, 
there  used  to  be  a number  of  villages  of  Delawares  and  Shawnees ; and 
with  them  were  mixed  a considerable  number  of  renegadoes  from  the 
Creeks,  and  the  Indians  of  the  lower  Mississippi.  There  were  in  all, 
three  or  four  hundred  souls.  They  left  the  country,  by  an  arrangement 
with  the  government.  They  have  allied  themselves  with  the  Cherokees 
of  the  Arkansas. 

In  ascending  the  Missouri,  we  first  meet  with  the  Gsages,  a powerful 
tribe  who  inhabit  principally  on  the  Osage  river,  and  who  spread  them- 
selves across  the  country  to  the  Arkansas,  and  even  to  Red  river. 
Ascending  the  Missouri,  we  find,  as  we  advance,  Gttoes,  Missouries, 
laways,  Kanzas,  and  Pawnees,  divided  into  three  bands — Grand  Pawnees, 
Pawnee  Republicans,  and  Pawnee  Loups.  After  the  Dacotas,  or  Sioux, 
they  are,  probably,  the  next  most  numerous  people  in  this  region.  Still 
farther  up,  there  are  the  Mandans,  Puncahs,  Omawhaws,  Padoucas,  La 
Plais,  or  Bald  heads,  and  the  Tetons.  Still  farther  up,  there  are  the 
Minnitarees,  or  Gros  ventres , the  Arrapahoe,  the  Crow,  the  Arricaree, 
the  Snake,  and  the  Black  foot  Indians.  Some  of  these  tribes  inhabit, 
and  hunt  occasionally  on  both  sides  of  the  Rocky  mountains. 

On  the  Arkansas,  the  first  tribe  on  its  lower  course  is  that  of  the 
Quawpaws  with  whom  are  incorporated  many  Chactaws.  Still  higher, 
we  meet  with  the  Gsages.  The  Cherokees,  who  have  migrated  to  this 
river,  seem  to  be  a point  of  union  for  the  ancient  Shawnese  and  Dela- 
The  Indians  on  the  Ohio,  of  these  tribes,  are  immigrating  to  this 

14 


wares. 


106 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


region.  Above  them  are  the  Pawnees  and  Arrapahoes.  At  the  sources 
of  this  river  are  often  seen  bands  of  the  Mexican  Indians,  as  the  Com- 
manches  and  Appaches,  who  come  down  from  their  mountains,  to  hunt 
the  buffalo  and  the  elk  on  the  adjacent  plains. 

From  New  Orleans  to  Attakapas,  and  thence  along  Red  river,  are  the 
remains  of  many  of  the  ancient  tribes  of  Louisiana,  that  will  soon  have 
no  other  memorial,  than  their  names  in  the  French  histories  of  the  country. 
These  are  the  Natchez,  the  Appalachies,  the  Tensas,  Alabamas,  Pasca- 
goulas,  Chetimaches,  Biloxies,  Tunicas,  &c.  Near  the  Sabine  are  a 
small  number  of  Carancoahs,  clearly  cannibals.  They  are  viewed  with 
horror,  and  pursued  with  a spirit  of  extermination,  by  the  adjacent 
Indians. 

Higher  on  Red  river  inhabit,  and  hunt  occasionally,  many  of  the  tribes, 
which  we  have  mentioned,  as  having  their  more  permanent  home  on  the 
Arkansas.  The  Cados  are  a tribe,  that  dwell  chiefly  on  Red  river,  and 
hunt  the  buffalo  on  the  prairies  between  it  and  Arkansas.  We  might 
continue  to  swell  this  catalogue  with  the  names  of  tribes,  that  once 
existed,  but  are  now  extinct;  and  others,  of  which  there  remain,  perhaps, 
a few  individuals. 

Population.  Any  exact  estimates  of  the  number  of  Indians,  within 
the  limits  of  the  territory  of  the  united  States,  must  necessarily  be 
wanting.  The  statistical  tables  rate  them  at  one  hundred  and  eighty 
thousand.  We  have  before  us  a detailed  table  of  the  estimated  numbers 
of  Indians  in  the  Mississippi  valley.  These  tables  give  the  names  of 
sixty  tribes;  some  of  them  of  barbarous  orthography,  and  sufficiently 
wide  from  the  sounds  of  the  names,  by  which  these  tribes  choose  to  call 
themselves.  The  whole  number  is  estimated  at  one  hundred  and  three 
thousand.  This,  if  we  do  not  include  the  Indians  west  of  the  Rocky 
mountains,  of  which  we  have  no  certain  knowledge,  is,  probably,  a large 
estimate. 

The  gradual  decrease  and  extinction  of  these  tribes,  one  after  the 
other,  has  been  a theme  of  copious  and  melancholy  reflection  with 
benevolent  and  thinking  men.  By  an  easy  transition,  they  have  passed 
to  charging  the  cause,  as  a crime  of  the  darkest  die  to  the  whites,  and 
to  our  country.  A prevalent  fashion  and  theme  of  declamation  have 
their  date,  and  their  period,  in  our  country;  and  for  the  time,  that  they 
are  in  fashion,  pass  unquestioned.  We  have  thought,  the  common,  loose 
and  bitter  charges,  which,  in  contemplating  this  subject,  have  been 
brought  against  our  fathers  and  our  country,  ought  at  least  to  admit  of 
question.  We  have  always  had  individuals  in  our  country,  who  would 
constantly  avail  themselves  of  the  opportunity,  to  distribute  among  them 
the  poison  of  ardent  spirits.  But  our  government,  it  must  be  admitted, 


ABORIGINES.  107 


lias  practised  towards  them  a steady  and  dignified  moderation,  and  an 
untiring  forbearance.  Its  provisions,  to  prevent  the  sale  of  whiskey 
among  them,  have  been  severe,  and  in  general  faithfully  carried  into  effect. 
The  strictness  of  our  laws  in  this  respect  is  one  of  the  most  incessant 
themes  of  complaint  on  their  part;  and  the  manner,  in  which  we  with- 
hold  whiskey  from  them,  is  considered  by  them,  as  the  result  of  our 
covetousness.  Our  government  is  exerting  a constant  effort,  to  hold  the 
tribes  leashed  in,  and  to  prevent  them  from  destroying  one  another.  Had 
it  been  our  policy  to  exterminate  the  race,  as  it  has  been  taxed,  nothing 
more  would  have  been  necessary,  than  to  unkennel  the  savages,  excite 
their  jealousies,  and  stir  up  their  revenge,  and  let  them  destroy  each 
other. — But,  on  the  contrary,  it  seems  to  have  been  the  guiding  maxim 
of  the  government,  to  do  all  practicable  good,  and  to  ward  off  all  possi- 
ble evil  from  this  devoted  and  unhappy  race. 

In  the  ancient  states,  in  the  legislative  halls,  on  the  floor  of  congress, 
from  the  pulpit  and  the  press,  it  has  been  the  favorite  theme  of  eloquence, 
and  the  readiest  passport  to  estimation  for  philanthropy  and  benevolence, 
to  bring  up  the  guilt  of  having  destroyed  the  past  race  of  this  people, 
and  of  having  possessed  ourselves  of  their  lands.  One  would  think,  it 
had  been  discovered,  that  the  population,  the  improvements,  and  the 
social  happiness  of  our  great  political  edifice,  ought  never  to  have  been 
erected  in  place  of  these  habitations  of  cruelty.  Let  us  pity  them.  Let 
us  practice  forbearance  to  the  end.  Let  us  send  to  them  instruction, 
Christianity  and  the  arts.  They  are  not  the  less  objects  of  our  pity, 
and  of  our  untiring  benevolence,  because  the  causes  of  their  decay,  and 
extinction  are  found  in  their  own  nature  and  character,  and  the  un- 
changeable order  of  things.  It  is  as  unchangeable,  as  the  laws  of  nature, 
that  savages  should  give  place  to  civilized  men,  possessed  of  the  strength, 
spirit  and  improvement  of  the  social  compact.  We  conceive,  that  it  is 
not  altogether  owing  either  to  the  proximity  of  the  whites,  to  ardent 
spirits,  or  small  pox,  that  the  Indian  tribes  are  constantly  diminishing.— 
The  ten  thousand  mounds  in  this  valley,  the  rude  memorials  of  an  im- 
mensely numerous  former  population,  but  to  our  view  no  more  civilized, 
than  the  present  races,  are  proofs,  that  the  country  was  depopulated, 
when  white  men  first  became  acquainted  with  it.  If  we  can  infer 
nothing  else  from  the  mounds,  we  can  clearly  infer,  that  this  country 
once  had  its  millions.  We  dig  up  their  pottery,  where  we  make  our 
corn  fields.  We  dig  up  their  bones,  when  we  level  these  mounds.  They 
were,  beyond  doubt,  a very  rude  people,  and  very  laborious.  Where  are 
they  now?  Their  places  are  occupied  by  a race,  who  were  depopulating 
in  their  turn,  when'  our  forefathers  first  saw  the  country.  We  have  no 
other  grounds,  on  which  to  charge  them  with  the  guilt  of  having  destroyed 


108 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


the  generations,  that  are  buried  in  these  mounds,  than  the  circumstance, 
that  when  we  first  knew  them,  they  were  engaged,  as  they  are  now,  in 
constant  and  interminable  wars  with  each  other.  Who  of  them  owned 
the  land,  that  we  now  inhabit?  The  races,  that  lie  buried  and  forgotten 
on  these  plains ; or  the  tribes,  that  advanced  to-day,  to  dispossess  the 
present  occupants,  to  be  dispossessed  in  their  turn  by  another  race?  We 
firmly  believe,  that  all  ideas  of  property  in  the  lands,  over  which  they 
roamed  after  game,  or  skulked  in  ambush,  to  kill  one  another, — all  notions 
of  a local  property  in  these  things,  have  been  derived  from  seeing  the 
value,  which  lands  acquire  from  the  occupancy  of  the  whites. . It  is  out 
of  all  question,  that  ages  before  they  had  seen  white  men,  they  were 
divided,  as  now,  into  an  hundred  petty  tribes,  engaged,  as  but  for  the 
interference  of  our  government  they  would  now  be,  in  endless  and  exter- 
minating wars,  in  which  they  dashed  infants  into  the  flames,  drank  the 
warm  blood  of  their  victim,  or  danced  and  yelled  round  the  stake,  where 
he  was  consuming,  in  the  fire.  If  they  found  the  country,  that  pleased 
them,  full  of  game,  and  unoccupied,  they  fixed  themselves  there  peace- 
fully. If  occupied,  they  made  upon  the  occupants  a war  of  extermina- 
tion. When  their  desires  or  caprices  prompted  them  to  wander  to  another 
region,  they  left  nothing,  but  bark  hovels,  and  a country,  where  game 
had  become  scarce,  for  one,  where  they  could  make  new  hovels  of  bark, 
and  find  game  plenty.  War  was  their  amusement,  prompted  by  their 
instinctive  appetite. 

It  is  no  crime  of  the  present  civilized  races,  that  inhabit  these  regions, 
that  their  forefathers  came  over  the  sea,  and  enclosed  lands,  and  cut 
down  trees,  where  the  Indians  had  hunted  and  fought.  If  they  will  not, 
and  can  not  labor,  and  cultivate  the  land,  and  lead  a municipal  life,  they 
are  in  the  same  predicament  with  a much  greater  number  of  drunkards, 
idlers  and  disturbers  of  society,  who  are  a charge  and  a burden  upon  it 
in  all  civilized  communities.  Like  them,  they  ought  to  be  treated  with 
tenderness;  to  be  enlightened  and  reclaimed,  if  possible;  and,  as  far  as 
may  be,  to  be  restrained  from  hurting  us,  and  each  other.  But  it  is  surely 
as  unjust,  as  it  is  preposterous,  to  speak  of  the  prevalence  of  our  race 
over  theirs,  as  an  evil;  and  from  a misjudging  tenderness  to  them,  do 
injustice  to  our  own  country,  and  the  cause  of  human  nature. 

They  are  evidently  depopulating,  not  only  in  the  proximity  of  our 
people,  but  in  regions  too  remote,  to  be  affected  by  our  contiguity. 
Such  is  the  case,  as  Pike  and  Long’s  exploring  party,  and  the  Spanish 
remark,  in  tribes  so  remote  from  our  borders,  as  scarcely  to  have  heard 
of  our  government.  There  are,  however  exceptions  to  this  rule.  The 
Cherokees  and  the  Chactaws  increase  in  the  country  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, almost  in  a ratio  as  great,  as  that  of  our  people.  It  is  earnestly 


ABORIGINES. 


109 


to  be  wished,  that  this  standing  and  conclusive  proof  of  the  advantage  of 
our  habits  over  theirs,  will  not  be  without  its  impression  upon  the  other 
tribes.  But  it  is  much  to  he  feared,  that  do  what  we  may,  all  our  schemes 
of  benevolence  to  preserve  them,  as  a distinct  race,  will  prove  abortive ; 
and  that  they  will  soon  be  known  only  in  history. 

As  we  have  remarked  some  writers  number  sixty  different  tribes  in 
this  valley.  They  are  scattered  over  an  immense  extent  of  country. 
They  inhabit  a great  variety  of  climates.  They  speak  different  langua- 
ges. They  live  on  different  kinds  of  food.  There  are  differences  of 
stature;  and  tribes  of  savages  larger  and  smaller,  than  the  ordinary  stat- 
ure of  whites.  There  are  differences  of  character,  sensibility,  intellect, 
standards  of  opinion  and  morals,  and  very  different  usages ; and  yet,  take 
all  the  varieties  of  the  races  in  the  different  climates  into  one  view,  and 
there  is,  probably,  a greater  physical  and  moral  resemblance  among  them 
than  is  seen  among  the  inhabitants  of  any  other  region  on  the  globe. 
Persons,  who  have  seen  the  Chippeways  of  the  north,  or  the  Cados  of  the 
south,  have  observed  fair  samples  of  the  Indians  over  all  this  valley. 

In  stature  some  tribes  exceed,  and  some  fall  short  of  the  medial  stature 
of  our  people.  The  Dacotas,  the  Osages,  and  generally  Jthe  savages  of 
the  middle  regions  of  the  Missouri,  are  something  taller,  than  our  people. 
The  same  maybe  observed  of  the  Cherokees.  The  Shawnese  and  Dela- 
wares, and  the  Indians  of  the  lakes  and  the  upper  Mississippi,  appear  to 
us  to  be  shorter,  than  the  whites.  Their  complexion  is  generally  desig- 
nated by  the  term,  ‘ copper  colored.’  It  does  not  convey  an  exact  idea 
of  the  complexion  of  the  ‘ red  skins.’  It  is  something  darker  than  un- 
tarnished copper,  and  perhaps  nearer  the  color  of  well  smoked  bacon. 
We  have  seen  full  blooded  Indians,  both  of  the  north  and  of  the  south, 
but  more  frequently  in  the  latter  climate,  as  black  as  ordinary  negroes. 
But,  though  the  dark  tinge  was  as  intense,  there  is  a shade  of  difference 
which  the  eye  catches,  and  language  cannot,  between  the  black  visage, 
of  such  an  Indian,  and  a negro.  Take  the  tribes  together,  there  is  little 
difference  between  the  complexion  of  the  northern  and  southern  Indians. 
The  same  unchangeable  tinge  is  visible  even  in  the  new  born  children. 

There  is  no  part  of  their  external  appearance,  that  more  strongly  dis- 
tinguishes them  from  all  other  people,  than  their  hair.  It  is  always,  in 
all  their  tribes,  and  under  all  circumstances,  and  in  each  of  the  sexes, 
black,  until  changed  by  age.  But  contrary  to  all,  that  has  been  asserted 
on  this  subject,  we  have  seen  an  hundred  instances  where  they  were  gray. 
The  hair  is  generally  described  by  another  term,  which,  perhaps,  does 
not  raise  very  distinct  impressions.  It  is  said  to  be  lank.  There  is  a 
peculiar  aspect  in  an  Indian  tress,  which  only  speaks  to  the  eye.  It  hangs 
in  knots  which  have  a peculiar  feeling;  and  looks,  as  though  greased, 


no 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY® 


which  it  probably  is.  It  is  much  finer  than  the  hair  of  the  horse’s  mane 
but  in  other  respects  resembles  it.  In  mixtures  with  the  whites,  this 
singular  and  characteristic  appearance  of  the  hair,  described  with  diffi- 
culty, but,  when  once  seen,  always  remembered,  remains  distinctly  visi- 
ble to  the  third  generation. 

They  are  generally  erect,  and  of  fine  forms,  with  few  instances  of  ano- 
malous decrepitude  and  deformity.  This,  probably,  results,  partly  from 
the  manner,  in  which  the  children  are  reared,  unswathed,  unspoiled  by 
indulgence  and  mismanagement  of  misguided  fondness;  but  more,  per 
haps,  to  the  circumstance,  that  feeble  children,  weak  from  deformity  or 
want  of  natural  vigor,  cannot  endure  the  first  hardships,  with  which 
nature  salutes  these  frail  beings  on  the  threshold  of  existence.  Nature 
cries  aloud  to  them,  as  Volney  has  said  it,  6 be  strong,  or  die;’  and  only 
the  hardy  and  well  formed  survive.  They  have  cleaner  limbs,  not  so 
muscular,  and  bodies  with  less  tendency  to  corpulence,  than  the  whites. 
Corpulent  Indians  are  very  rare ; but  we  have  seen  two  or  three  full 
blooded  Indians  as  corpulent,  as  the  best  fed  burghers  of  our  cities. 
The  legs,  both  of  the  male  and  the  female,  have  a remarkable  curve,  still 
more  distinguishable,  than  that  of  the  negro.  In  walking,  they  are  re- 
markable for  placing  one  foot  in  a right  line  before  the  other,  and  seldom 
turn  their  toes  from  that  right  line.  In  this  way  they  instantly  discover 
the  track  of  their  own  people,  as  distinct  from  ours.  They  walk,  too, 
the  one  directly  behind  the  other,  in  what  is  called  Indian  file.  We  have 
often  seen  the  husband  and  wife,  the  mother  and  daughter,  the  father 
and  son ; and  even  two  equal  aged  young  men,  walking  together,  engaged 
apparently,  in  earnest  conversation ; but  never  advancing  abreast.  The 
one  is  directly  behind  the  other.  Their  senses  are  entire,  acute,  and 
there  are  few  anomalies  from  the  general  analogy  of  human  conformation. 

The  forehead  is  broad,  and  almost  invariably  retiring  in  a small  de- 
gree. We  scarcely  remember  to  have  noticed  a projecting  forehead. 
The  nose  is  prominent,  and  the  base  of  the  nostrils  has  a remarkable 
expansion;  and  in  the  male  it  is  more  commonly  aquiline,  than  otherwise. 
The  lips  are  intermediate  between  the  common  thinness  of  the  whites, 
and  thickness  of  the  negroes.  The  cheek  bones  are  high,  and  marked  ; 
and  the  face,  in  the  line  below  the  eyes,  uncommonly  wide, — -and  on 
this  part  of  the  face  is  strongly  impressed  the  contour,  that  marks  the 
Indian  variety  of  the  human  countenance.  The  eyes  are  almost  invariably 
black;  but  of  a shade  of  blackness,  very  distinct  from  what  we  call  such  in 
the  whites.  We  have  the  black  eye  of  Italians  and  Spaniards,  which  has  a 
color  and  expression ; unlike  the  black  eye  of  the  Indians. — There  is  some- 
thing in  their  gait,  too,  apart  from  the  crookedness  of  their  legs;  their 
dress,  or  their  manner  of  placing  their  feet  the  one  before  the  other? 


ABORIGINES.  Ill 

which  enables  us,  at  a great  distance,  to  distinguish  an  advancing  Indian 
from  a white. 

The  squaw  has  a distinctly  female  conformation,  and  a delicacy  of 
rounding  in  the  limbs,  as  distinct  from  the  harsher  and  more  muscu- 
lar and  brawny  form  of  the  male,  still  more  strongly  marked,  than  in  our 
race.  It  seems  a refutation,  directly  in  point,  of  the  system  of  those 
female  philosophers,  who  have  asserted,  that  the  frailer  form  of  the  female 
was1  only  owing  to  their  want  of  exposure,  and  the  early  gymnastic  habits 
of  the  male.  It  is  notorious,  that  the  squaws  are  the  drudges,  the  ani- 
mals of  burden,  among  this  race,  from  their  infancy.  But  they  have  the 
female  delicacy  of  limb,  and  contour  of  joint,  and  slenderness  of  hand 
and  foot,  notwithstanding  as  distinctly  marked,  as  if  they  had  been 
reared  in  indolence  and  luxury.  The  legs  have  the  same  curve  with 
those  of  the  male.  We  have  scarcely  seen  an  instance,  where  the  female 
face  was  not  broad  and  oval.  The  nose  is  flattened,  scarcely  ever 
aquiline,  and  for  the  most  part  resembles  that  of  the  negro.  They  have 
a much  greater  uniformity  of  face,  in  this  respect  than  the  male.  The 
effluvia  effused  from  their  bodies,  both  male  and  female,  when  in  high 
perspiration,  has  been  often  remarked  by  observers  to  be  less  disagree- 
able, than  that  of  other  races,  in  similar  circumstances.  Some  have 
supposed  this  to  arise  from  their  almost  universal  use  of  unguents  from 
fragrant  herbs ; others  that  they  have  a less  copious  and  disagreeable 
perspiration.  Be  the  cause  what  it  may,  all  people,  who  have  been  much 
among  the  Indians,  agree  in  the  fact. 

In  their  moral  habits,  although  no  people  on  the  globe  will  endure 
severer  privations,  will  be  more  active,  or  travel  farther,  or  hunt  longer, 
or  perform  more  incredible  exploits  of  activity  and  daring,  in  their  wars 
!md  in  the  chase,  they  must  still  be  pronounced  on  the  whole,  a lazy 
people.  They  often  pass  from  the  extremes  of  travail  and  toil  to  the 
most  perfect  indolence.  Like  their  dogs,  they  will  scour  their  thickets 
all  day  in  the  chase ; and  like  them,  as  soon  as  their  toils  are  suspended, 
they  sink  either  to  sleep,  or  a dozing  and  half  unconscious  existence. 
The  history  of  the  life  of  a warrior,  is  a history  of  these  constant  alterna- 
nations.  But  the  idea  of  the  steady  and  unremitting  industry  of  the 
whites  is  intolerable  to  them.  The  history  of  the  Indians,  from  the  be- 
ginning, is  full  of  this  fact.  The  Spaniards  could  never  bring  the  Indians 
of  the  islands  to  the  steady  labors  of  agriculture.  They  have  been  a 
thousand  times  enslaved  in  North  America ; but  the  instance  is  scarcely 
on  record,  where  an  Indian,  male  or  female,  became  a diligent  slave. 
With  them  the  stimulant  effect  of  the  chase,  fostered  by  early  training, 
and  associated  with  the  idea,  that  success  in  it  confers  the  next  honors 
to  those  of  war,  and  is  one  of  their  means  of  existence ; or  the  still  higher 


112 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


excitements  of  ambition  and  revenge;  goading  them  to  war,  are  the  only 
adequate  motives  to  overcome  their  natural  indolence.  Their  excite- 
ments removed,  the  vagrant  propensities  of  a life  without  object  or  pur- 
suit, are  with  them  an  overwhelming  instinct,  in  opposition  to  daily  and 
unremitting  industry.  Extreme  avarice  in  those,  who  have  become  suc- 
cessful cultivators,  has  supplied  a motive  of  sufficient  energy  to  induce 
them  to  mental  exertion,  in  order  to  procure  slaves.  But  wherever  we 
have  passed  fields  contiguous  to  Indian  villages,  the  mean  and  miserable 
enclosures,  the  maize  planted  out  of  rows,  and  crowded  together  at  une- 
qual distances ; in  short,  the  whole  appearance  of  their  cultivation,  was 
sufficiently  indicative  of  Indian  character,  that  labor  was  their  strange 
work,  and  that  even  their  more  industrious  women  and  children  were 
but  poor  and  careless  cultivators. 

In  regard  to  their  moral  character  and  dispositions,  their  modes  of 
existence,  their  domestic  habits,  their  amiableness,  or  unamiableness,  dif- 
ferent writers  have  taken  very  different  views.  Some  have  extolled  their 
condition,  as  comprising  the  highest  felicity  of  human  existence;  and 
their  manners  and  morals,  as  the  utmost  perfection  of  human  nature. 
Such  were  the  dreams  of  Rosseau ; and  under  the  pen  of  Chataubriand, 
they  were  transformed  into  a kind  of  amiable  and  happy  Arcadians. 
Volney  described  them  from  observation;  and  the  little,  that  he  has  said 
of  them,  shows  great  exactness,  and  depth  of  research,  and  describes 
more  of  the  real  character  and  condition,  than  whole  volumes,  written  by 
others.  Heckewelder  had  lived  with  a particular  tribe, — had  identified 
his  feelings,  and  almost  his  affections  with  them  and  their  interests. 
Having  a very  narrow  circle  of  observation,  every  thing  in  that  circle 
became  magnified  out  of  proportion.  Their  dim,  and  probably  fabulous 
traditions,  were  to  him  matter  of  sober  history.  His  views  of  them  do 
more  credit  to  the  benevolence  of  his  heart,  than  to  the  discriminating 
powers  of  his  mind ; and  are  not  exactly  the  data,  on  which  a philosopher 
would  form  his  opinions  of  the  Indian  character.  About  the  character, 
scarcely  any  two  writers  have  been  agreed ; and  we  have  accounts  of 
them  almost  diametrically  opposite.  Charlevoix  was  one  of  the  first 
observers  of  the  savages  of  Canada  and  the  West.  He  saw  them,  too, 
under  circumstances  favorable  for  the  developement  of  their  real  charac- 
ter; before  their  manners  were  sophisticated,  or  altered  by  communica- 
tion with  the  whites.  He  has  given  us,  perhaps,  the  most  faithful  account 
of  the  savages,  that  has  been  given.  It  accords  with  the  views,  that  they 
have  presented  to  us,  at  the  present  day.  On  the  whole,  his  picture  is 
that  of  a race,  taken  as  a whole,  neither  amiable,  nor  happy.  We  cannot 
expect  to  settle  the  collisions  of  opinion  upon  this  point.  The  brevity 
of  our  limits  confines  us  to  a few  passing  remarks.  We  shall  give  some 


ABORIGINES. 


113 


of  their  general  traits,  such  as  appear  to  us  to  be  common  to  the  race, 
and  of  which  all,  that  have  been  extensively  acquainted  with  Indian 
character  and  manners,  will  acknowledge  the  fidelity. 

As  a race,  they. have  countenances,  that  are  generally  unjoyous,  stem 
and  ruminating.  It  is  with  them  either  gloomy  taciturnity,  or  bacchana- 
lian revel.  When  you  hear  Indians  laughing,  you  may  generally  infer, 
that  they  are  intoxicated.  An  Indian  seldom  jests;  generally  speaks  low, 
and  under  his  breath;  and  loquacity  is  with  him  an  indication  of  being  a 
a trifling  personage,  and  of  deeds  inversely  less,  as  his  words  are  more. 
Even  the  young  men  and  the  boys  have  a sullen,  moody  and  thoughtful 
countenance ; and  seem  to  have  little  of  that  elastic  gaiety,  with  which 
the  benevolence  of  Providence  has  endowed  the  first  days  of  the  exist- 
ence of  most  other  beings.  From  this  general  remark,  we  ought,  perhaps, 
to  except  the  squaw,  who  shows  some  analogy  of  nature  to  the  white 
female.  She  has  quicker  sensibilities,  is  more  easily  excited ; and  when 
out  of  sight  of  her  husband,  or  her  parents,  to  whom  these  things  are  mat- 
ters of  espionage  and*of  after  reprehension,  she  laughs  and  converses,  and 
seems  conscious  of  a pleasurable  existence. 

The  males  evidently  have  not  the  quick  sensibilities,  the  acute  percep- 
tions of  most  other  races.  They  do  not  easily  or  readily  sympathize 
with  external  nature.  None  but  an  overwhelming  excitement  can  arouse 
them.  They  seem  callous  to  all  the  passions,  but  rage.  The  instances, 
that  have  been  given  in  such  glowing  colors,  of  their  females  having  felt 
and  displayed  thepasssion  of  love  towards  individuals  of  the  whites,  with 
such  devoted  constancy,  have,  no  doubt,  existed.  But  they  were  excep- 
tions— anomalies  from  the  general  character.  We  have  seen  fathers  in 
their  cabins  caressing  their  children ; but  even  their  caressing  was  of  their 
customary  moody  and  stern  character,  and  as  if  they  were  ashamed  to  do 
it.  They  are  apparently  a sullen,  melancholy  and  musing  race,  who  ap- 
pear to  have  whatever  they  have  of  emotion,  or  excitement,  on  ordinary 
occasions  going  on  in  the  inner  man.  Every  one  has  remarked,  how 
little  surprise  they  express  for  whatever  is  new,  strange,  or  striking. 
Their  continual  converse  with  woods,  rocks  and  sterile  deserts,  with  the 
roar  of  winds  and  storms,  and  the  solitude  and  gloom  of  the  wilderness ; 
their  apparent  exile  from  social  nature ; their  alternations  of  satiety  and 
hunger,  their  continual  exposure  to  danger;  their  uncertain  existence; 
their  constant  struggle  with  nature  to  maintain  it;  the  little  hold,  which 
their  affections  seem  to  have  upon  life;  the  wild,  savage  and  hostile 
nature,  that  incessantly  surrounds  them ; — these  circumstances  seem  to 
have  impressed  a steady  and  unalterable  gloom  upon  their  countenances. 
If  there  be,  here  and  there  among  them,  a young  man,  who  feels  the 
freshness  and  vivacity  of  youthful  existence,  and  shows  any  thing  of  the 
■ ...  . 15 


114 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


gaiety  and  volatility  of  other  animals  in  such  circumstances,  though 
otherwise  born  to  distinction,  he  is  denounced,  as  a trifling  thing;  and 
the  silent  and  sullen  young  savage  will  naturally  take  the  place  of  him. 
They  seem  to  be  born  with  an  instinctive  determination,  to  be,  as  much 
as  possible,  independent  of  nature  and  society,  and  to  concentrate,  as 
much  as  possible,  within  themselves  an  existence,  which  at  any  moment 
they  seem  willing  to  lay  down. 

Their  impassible  fortitude  and  endurance  of  suffering,  their  contempt 
of  pain  and  death,  invest  their  character  with  a kind  of  moral  grandeur. 
It  is  to  be  doubted,  whether  some  part  of  this  vaunted  stoicism  be  not 
the  result  of  a more  than  ordinary  degree  of  physical  insensibility.  It 
has  been  said,  with  how  much  truth  we  know  not,  that  in  amputation 
and  other  surgical  operations,  their  nerves  do  not  shrink,  or  show  the 
same  tendency  to  spasm,  with  those  of  the  whites.  When  the  savage,  to 
explain  his  insensibility  to  cold,  called  upon  the  white  man  to  recollect 
how  little  his  own  face  was  affected  by  it,  in  consequence  of  constant 
exposure,  the  savage  added  £ my  body  is  all  face.’  This  increasing  in- 
sensibility, transmitted  from  generation  to  generation,  finally  becomes 
inwrought  with  the  whole  web  of  animal  nature,  and  the  body  of  the 
savage  at  last  approximates  the  insensibility  of  the  hoofs  of  horses.  Con- 
sidering the  necessary  condition  of  savage  existence,  this  temperament 
is  the  highest  boon  of  Providence.  Of  course  no  ordinary  stimulus 
excites  them  to  action.  Few  of  the  common  motives,  excitements  or 
endearments  operate  upon  them  at  all.  Most  of  the  things,  that  move 
us,  they  either  do  not  feel,  or  hold  in  proud  disdain.  The  horrors  of  their 
dreadful  warfare;  the  infernal  rage  of  their  battles;  the  demoniac  fury  of 
gratified  revenge;  the  alternations  of  hope  and  despair  in  their  gambling, 
to  which  they  are  addicted,  even  beyond  the  whites;  the  brutal  exhilara- 
tion of  drunkenness ; — these  are  their  pleasurable  excitements.  These 
are  the  things,  that  awaken  them  to  a strong  and  joyous  consciousness  of 
existence.  When  these  excitements  arouse  the  imprisoned  energies  of 
their  long  and  sullen  meditations,  it  is  like  ^Eolus  uncaging  the  whirl- 
winds. The  tomahawk  flies  with  unpitying  and  unsparing  fury;  and  the 
writhing  of  their  victims  inspires  a horrible  joy.  Let  the  benevolent 
make  every  exertion  to  ameliorate  their  character  and  condition.  Let 
Christianity  arouse  every  effort  to  convey  her  pity,  mercy  and  immortal 
hopes  to  their  rugged  bosoms.  But  surely  it  is  preposterous  to  admire 
the  savage  character  in  the  abstract.  Let  us  never  undervalue  the  com- 
fort and  security  of  municipal  and  civilized  life ; nor  the  sensibilities, 
charities  and  endearments  of  our  own  homes.  The  happiness  of  savages, 
steeled  against  sympathy  and  feeling,  at  war  with  nature,  with  the 
elements,  and  with  each  other,  can  have  no  existence,  except  in  the 


ABORIGINES.  115 

visionary  dreaming  of  those,  who  never  contemplated  their  actual 
condition. 

It  is  curious  to  remark,  that  different  as  are  their  standards  of  opinion 
from  ours,  in  the  main  they  have  much  the  same  notion  of  a good  and 
respectable  man,  that  we  have.  If  we  mark  the  passion  for  military  dis 
play  among  our  race,  and  observe  what  point  is  assigned  by  common 
feeling,  as  well  as  history  to  military  prowess,  we  shall  hardly  consider  it 
a striking  difference  from  our  nature,  that  bravery  and  daring  command 
the  first  place  in  their  homage.  Their  whole  training,  from  their  first  to 
their  last  hour,  inculcates  the  maxim,  that  courage  is  every  thing.  But 
apart  from  these  views,  the  traits  of  character,  that  entitle  a man  to  the 
appellation  of  virtuous  and  good  among  us,  have  the  same  bearing  upon 
the  estimation  of  the  Indians.  In  conversing  with  them,  we  are  struck 
with  surprise,  to  observe  how  widely  and  deeply  the  obligations  of  truth, 
constancy,  honor,  generosity  and  forbearance  are  felt  and  understood 
among  them. 

It  has  been  often  observed  by  foreign  writers,  and  the  sentiment 
has  been  echoed  by  philosophers  of  our  own  country,  that  they  were 
less  subject  to  desire,  and  that  the  sexual  propensities  were  weaker  in 
their  race,  than  in  ours ; and  they  have  evidenced  the  want  of  beard  in 
the  males,  as  a physical  proof.  The  Indians  are  as  particular,  as  the 
Parisians,  not  to  depart  from  their  own  modes  and  fashions.  But  we  have 
occasionally  seen  a savage,  who  had  the  courage  or  the  affectation  to  be 
singular,  and  such  a person  has  a beard,  that  would  not  do  discredit  to 
an  Oriental.  It  is  well  known,  that  one  of  the  most  general  and  trouble- 
some employments  of  the  young  Indians  is,  to  pull  out  the  starting  crop 
of  beard  with  tweezers.  We  know  not  if  their  beard  would  grow  natur- 
ally as  abundant,  as  that  of  the  whites.  But  if  it  would  not,  it  is  un- 
questionably owing  to  other  causes,  than  want  of  natural  vigor.  Labor, 
a diet  often  meagre  from  necessity,  exposure,  and  the  indulgence  of  pas- 
sions of  a deeper  character,  as  ambition,  vindictiveness  and  the  appetite 
for  war,  would  probably  weaken,  if  not  extinguish,  in  whites,  passions, 
which  are  fostered  in  indolence,  plenty  and  repose.  But  when  savages 
are  placed  in  situations  favorable  to  the  developement  and  indulgence 
of  animal  desires,  we  have  seen  no  indications  that  they  are  feebler,  or 
less  intense  in  them,  than  in  the  whites.  When  we  look  upon  the  wild 
and  naked  elements,  upon  which,  in  some  sense,  their  children  are  cast ; 
when  we  consider  how  unfavorable  is  their  situation  for  rearing  children, 
we  are  astohished,  at  seeing  so  many  in  their  cabins.  Of  the  squaws, 
that  we  have  seen,  of  mature  age,  a very  great  proportion  of  them  had 
their  babe,  either  swinging  in  its  bark  cradle,  suspended  between  two 
trees;  or  if  the  mother  was  travelling,  hung  to  her  back  by  the  usual 


116 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


strings,  passed  over  her  shoulders,  compressed  to  her  back  by  a bark  cage, 
not  unlike  the  shell  of  a tortoise.  Its  copper  colored  nose  is  seen  peeping 
from  this  cage,  like  that  of  a tortoise  from  its  shell;  and  even  the  infants 
seem  to  feel,  that  crying  is  to  no  purpose  ; and  its  note  of  grief  is 
seldom  heard. 

It  is  to  be  lamented,  that  the  intercourse  of  the  whites  among  them  has 
been  calculated  to  convey  any  impressions  of  them,  rather  than  those  of 
the  philosophers,  of  whom  we  have  spoken.  Numberless  fatal  cases  of 
jealousy  are  recorded  of  their  young  warriors,  in  reference  to  the  deport- 
ment of  our  people  towards  their  women,  while  among  them.  The  man- 
ners of  our  people,  in  this  intercourse,  have  too  often  been  an  outrage 
upon  decency  and  humanity.  There  are  but  few  tribes,  among  whom 
the  passing  American  sojourner,  if  he  have  any  respectability  of  appear- 
ance, does  not  receive  the  offer  of  a daughter,  or  perhaps  the  wife  of  his 
host,  as  a temporary  companion.  Almost  every  American  trader  and 
resident  among  them  has  an  Indian  wife;  and  but  too  often,  wives  in  the 
region,  which  they  left.  In  Long’s  first  expedition  an  instance  of  this 
sort  is  recorded,  of  the  deep  and  devoted  constancy  of  affection  on  the 
part  of  the  young  Indian  wife,  and  thrilling  proofs  of  the  struggle  be- 
tween maternal  and  conjugal  affection.  The  whole  story  is  characteristic; 
and  reflects  as  much  honor  upon  the  Indian  wife  and  mother,  as  it  does 
shame  and  contempt  on  the  base  and  cold  blooded  perfidy  of  the  American 
husband. 

In  all  the  Indian  tribes,  they  have  contrived  to  emulate  the  most  polished 
and  civilized  people  in  the  extent  of  prostitution,  practised  among  them ; 
and  the  degraded  subjects  have  the  same  estimation  in  the  one  country 
and  the  other.  Unnatural  vices,  fornication  and  adultery  prevail  among 
many  of  the  tribes,  no  doubt,  to  a great  extent;  but  taking  into  view  the 
opportunities  in  the  solitude  of  the  desert,  the  smallness  of  their  socie- 
ties, and  the  diminished  influence  of  opinion,  that  results  from  it;  taking 
into  view,  that  they  have  no  laws,  but  indefinite  opinion,  no  religion,  and 
no  visible  restraints, — the  state  of  morals  in  these  respects  is  far  purer, 
than  would  naturally  be  expected.  Instead  of  admiring,  that  these  vices 
are  practised  among  them,  but,  perhaps,  not  to  a greater  degree,  than  in 
civilized  countries,  it  is  to  a thinking  mind  matter  of  astonishment,  that 
there  is  so  much  decorum  and  restraint  in  these  respects,  as  there  is.  We 
feel  constrained,  too,  to  place  this  decorum  among  themselves,  and  that 
astonishing  delicacy,  with  which  they  deport  themselves  towards  white 
females,  that  fall  into  their  power,  to  a more  honorable  cause,  than  the 
destitution  of  passions.  When  we  have  passed  various  Indian  tribes 
encamped  near  together,  in  company  with  ladies,  we  have  observed  the 
same  manners,  and  the  same  indications  of  what  was  passing  in  their 


ABORIGINES. 


117 


minds,  that  we  should  expect  to  see  in  untrained  and  low  people  among 
ourselves ; nor  have  we  ever  believed  for  a moment,  that  the  propen- 
sities of  nature  are  not  as  strong,  under  similar  circumstances,  in  them, 
as  in  us. 

There  are  different  standards  of  morals  among  them,  as  there  are 
among  the  white  nations.  With  some  tribes  adultery  is  a venial  offence ; 
and  in  others  it  is  punished  with  mutilation,  death,  or  the  handing  over 
the  degraded  female  to  the  males  of  the  tribe.  The  instance  of  a young 
squaw,  who  is  a mother  before  marriage,  is  a very  uncommon  occurrence; 
nor  have  we  as  much  faith,  as  others,  in  their  adroitness  at  procuring 
abortion.  In  the  case  of  a young  Indian  woman  the  fact  of  pregnancy 
could  not  be  hidden. 

The  modes  of  managing  marriage  are  as  various,  as  among  the  whites. 
If  there  be  any  prevalent  custom  among  the  tribes,  it  is,  that  the  parents 
manage  the  matter;  and  the  young  warrior  in  the  morning  finds  the 
squaw,  elected  by  the  parents,  sitting  in  his  quarters,  with  whatever  she 
is  expected  to  bring,  as  a dowry,  removed  with  her.  It  sometimes,  but 
not  often,  happens,  that  he  enters  his  dissent,  and  she  returns  with  her 
baggage  to  her  mother.  It  is  an  universal  custom  to  marry  as  many 
wives,  as  the  warrior  or  hunter  pleases.  This  is  an  affair,  accurately 
prescribed  by  custom.  If  a young  hunter  has  been  for  a length  of  time 
very  successful  in  hunting,  like  a rich  Turk,  he  is  authorized  by  opinion 
to  take  as  many  wives,  as  he  has  proved  himself  able  to  maintain. 

Jealousy  in  this  case,  and  in  all  other  cases,  shows  itself  under  the 
same  forms,  which  it  would  naturally  assume  among  our  people.  In 
Long’s  first  expedition,  we  have  a very  amusing  account  of  the  manner, 
in  which  a wife  deports  herself,  when  her  husband  happens  to  manifest 
a greater  fondness  for  another  wife.  Sometimes  the  favorite,  to  avoid 
her  tongue,  teeth  and  nails,  flies  with  her  husband  to  the  campaign  or 
hunt.  At  others,  in  dread  of  her  life,  she  returns  to  her  parents.  When 
the  two  wives  quarrel,  whatever  be  the  taciturnity  of  the  husband,  there 
is  no  want  of  words  between  the  wives.  The  husband,  squat  on  his 
hams,  with  his  pipe  in  his  mouth,  and  his  head  half  covered,  and  his  eyes 
half  closed,  effects  to  be  dozing,  while  they  rate  each  other.  If  the 
contest  of  words  goes  on  to  blows,  as  is  often  the  case,  he  arises  with  the 
stern  air  of  a judge,  and  parts  them,  with  a manner,  that  indicates  which 
is  the  favorite.  The  wives  generally  find  one  lodge  too  narrow  for  both 
to  inhabit  together.  The  Indian  spends  his  time,  perhaps,  in  equal 
portions  between  them.  But  if  he  happens  to  spend  more  time  with  the 
one  than  the  other,  when  he  returns  to  the  neglected  wife,  she  manifests 
her  view  of  the  case  by  kicking  his  dog,  throwing  his  food  on  the  ground, 
and  admitting  him  with  great  frankness  into  her  thoughts  of  him  and  his 


118 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY, 


favorite.  The  more  our  species  are  studied,  the  more  clearly  it  is  found, 
that  the  human  heart  is  every  where  the  same. 

It  is  beyond  all  question,  that  some  of  the  tribes  now  occasionally 
practise  cannibalism ; and  that  before  the  new  world  was  visited  by  the 
whites,  it  was  a custom  generally,  if  not  universally  prevalent  among 
them.  The  imperceptible  influence  of  the  horror,  with  which  this  practise 
is  regarded  by  the  whites,  has  made  its  way  among  them ; and,  little  as 
they  are  disposed  to  confess,  that  they  are  swayed  by  our  opinions,  the 
earnestness  with  which  they  deny  the  existence  of  the  practise  at  present 
in  their  tribes,  and  with  which  they  attempt  to  vindicate  their  ancestors 
from  the  charge,  is  an  incontestible  admission  of  the  influence,  which 
our  opinions  exercise  over  them. 

It  would  extend  these  remarks  beyond  our  object,  to  give  extensive 
and  general  details  of  Indian  manners  and  modes  of  life.  An  important 
era  with  the  youth  of  all  the  tribes  Is  that,  when  they  pass  from  minority 
to  the  duties  and  estimation  of  warriors  and  hunters.  This  period  is 
celebrated  with  great  solemnity.  It  is  well  known,  that  hunting  is  the 
serious  business,  and  war  the  important  amusement  and  pleasure  of  their 
lives.  The  manner,  in  which  they  conduct  these  pursuits,  is  sufficiently 
well  known.  Their  modes  of  constructing  their  habitations  vary,  accord- 
ing as  they  dwell  in  a country  of  forests  or  prairies,  or  northern  or 
southern  climate.  Although  in  the  very  few  instances,  in  which  the 
savages  have  become  cultivators  in  good  earnest,  they  may  have  con- 
structed good  houses,  the  far  greater  portion  aim  at  nothing  more,  than 
the  frailest  and  rudest  cabin.  Yet  in  the  construction  of  these,  there  are 
the  same  differences,  as  are  seen  in  the  cabins  of  the  backwoods  men, 
Some  are  extremely  rude;  and  some  are  framed  with  ingenious  and 
persevering  reference  to  comfort  and  utility.  The  same  differences  are 
visible  in  the  internal  arrangement  and  keeping  of  the  cabin.  In  most 
instances  the  interior  is  filthy  and  uncomfortable,  beyond  the  endurance 
of  any  but  a savage.  We  have  been  in  others,  where  the  neatly  matted 
floor,  or  the  earth  covered  with  the  fresh  verdure  of  the  palmetto,  and  the 
neatness  of  all  the  accompaniments,  gave  the  scene  such  an  air  of  com- 
fort, as  created  a train  of  pleasant  associations  with  the  place. 

Like  all  ignorant  people,  unable  to  trace  the  relation  between  results 
and  causes,  they  are  beyond  all  other  people  superstitious.  It  may  be 
laid  down,  as  an  universal  trait  of  the  Indian  character.  The  warrior, 
who  braves  death  a thousand  times  and  in  every  form  in  the  fury  of  battle, 
carries  with  him  to  the  combat  a little  charmed  bag  of  filthy  and  disgust- 
ing ingredients,  in  which  he  places  no  little  reliance,  as  security  against 
the  balls  and  arrows,  that  are  fired  upon  him.  They  are  much  addicted 
to  faith  in  dreams.  One  of  the  dreamers,  the  day  before  alert,  confident 


ABORIGINES. 


119 


and  intrepid,  awakes  the  next  morning,  subdued  and  timid.  He  paints 
one  side  of  his  face  black.  He  subjects  himself  to  the  most  rigorous 
abstinence  and  fasting.  Nothing  can  induce  him  to  indulge  or  taste 
food,  until  the  interdict  has  passed  away.  He  has  dreamed  an  unfavora- 
ble dream.  Such  astonishing  hold  have  these  dreams  upon  their  mind, 
that  a warrior  has  been  known  to  assume  the  dress,  the  duties,  the 
drudgery,  and,  what  is  infinitely  more  humiliating  to  an  Indian,  the 
estimation  and  standing  of  a squaw,  in  consequence  of  one  of  these 
dreams. 

This  great  tendency  to  superstition  in  an  Indian  mind  furnishes  strong 
inducements  to  ingenious  and  bold  impostors  among  them,  to  assume  the 
character  of  jugglers,  quacks,  medicine  men  and  prophets.  Our  country 
had  a terrible  proof  of  the  efficacy  of  this  assumption,  in  the  case  of  the 
6 Shawnee  prophet,’  and  inferior  men  of  the  same  character,  during  the 
late  war.  A chief  among  the  savages  of  the  Missouri  exercised,  through 
the  influence  of  fear,  a long  and  severe  authority  over  Indians,  by  whom 
he  was  abhorred.  He  had  a medicine  bag  of  terrible  efficacy;  and  his 
enemies  fell  on  his  right  hand  and  on  his  left.  It  was  a received  opinion 
in  his  tribe,  that  his  wish  had  a withering  and  fatal  influence  on  whom- 
soever he  directed  it.  After  his  death,  his  grand  medicine  was  found  to 
be  arsenic. 

Every  thing  with  them,  of  great  efficacy  and  power,  that  is  inexplica- 
ble, is  a ‘ medicine ; ’ and  the  medicine  men  among  them  have  the  next 
degree  of  consideration  to  chiefs  and  noted  warriors.  We  have  conversed 
with  Indians,  who  were  atheists,  and  treated  as  fabulous  all  notions  of 
the  immortality  of  the  soul ; and  defended  their  opinions  with  as  much 
ingenuity,  as  abandoned  people  of  the  lower  orders  among  ourselves, 
who  profess  to  hold  the  same  opinions.  But  in  some  shape  or  form, 
almost  all  savages  admit  the  being  of  a God.  and  the  immortality  of  the 
soul.  The  Great  Spirit  is  termed  in  many  of  their  languages, ‘ Wahcon- 
dah ,’  or  Master  of  Life.  Storm  and  thunder  are  manifestations  of  his 
wrath;  and  success  in  war  and  hunting,  of  his  favor.  Many  of  the  tribes 
have  forms  of  prayer,  in  the  use  of  which  they  are  regular  and  earnest, 
particularly  when  starting  on  expeditions  of  hunting  or  war. — Their 
prophets  occasionally  give  out,  that  they  have  had  communications  with 
this  Spirit,  who  has  made  himself  visibly  manifest  to  them,  in  the  form 
of  some  bird  or  beast;  and  they  paint  their  faces  black,  and  observe 
great  mystery  on  the  occasion ; and  thence  derive  their  pretensions  to  proph- 
ecy, and  to  be  treated  with  the  deference  of  ‘medicine  men.’  Their 
notions  of  the  condition  of  departed  spirits  are  such,  as  we  might  expect 
from  their  character  and  condition.  In  some  distant  regions  of  a southern 
temperature,  they  place  the  home  of  the  worthy  departed  in  the  country 


120 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


of  c brave  and  free’  spirits,  who  pass  to  that  country  of  game  and  good 
cheer  over  a bridge,  scarcely  wider  than  a hair,  suspended  over  a yawning 
gulf.  They,  who  have  firm  hearts  and  feet,  and  unblenching  counte- 
nances,— that  is  to  say,  who  were  good  warriors  in  life,  pass  safely  over 
the  bridge ; while  the  timid  and  trembling  fall  into  the  gulf  below. 

Though  they  will  sometimes  talk  of  these  matters  with  great  earnest- 
ness and  apparent  conviction,  yet,  we  believe,  of  all  people,  that  have 
been  known  on  the  earth,  their  thoughts,  hopes  and  fears  dwell  the  least 
on  any  thing  beyond  this  life.  It  seems  to  be  inexplicable  to  them,  that 
any  part  of  their  conduct  here  can  have  any  bearing  upon  their  condition 
hereafter.  If  they  can  be  comfortable,  and  gain  their  points  in  this  life, 
they  concern  themselves  very  little  about  what  will  happen  to  them  in 
the  life  to  come.  Of  course  adult  savages  have  too  often  been  found 
hopeless  subjects,  upon  whom  to  bestow  the  pure  and  sublime  truths 
of  our  gospel.  The  days  of  the  Brainards  and  Elliots  seem  to  have  gone 
by  - or  the  western  and  southern  savages  are  more  hopeless  subjects  for 
conversion,  than  those  of  the  north.  They  have  certainly  been  found 
utterly  destitute  of  the  plastic  docility  of  the  Mexican  and  Peruvian 
Indians.  Charlevoix  has  given,  as  a characteristic  trait  of  the  Canadian 
and  western  savages  of  this  day,  one,  that  has  been  found  equally  appli- 
cable to  them  at  the  present  time.  They  listen  with  apparent  docility 
and  attention  to  our  expositions  of  our  religion,  our  faith,  and  our  hopes; 
and  assent  to  all,  and  admit,  that  this  may  all  be  true,  in  relation  to  indi- 
viduals of  our  race.  They  relate  in  turn  their  own  fables,  their  own 
dim  and  visionary  notions  of  a God  and  hereafter;  and  exact  the  same 
docility  and  complaisance  to  their  creed,  which  they  yielded  to  ours. 

In  respect  to  the  lesser  morals,  all  savages  in  this  region  are  hospitable. 
Even  the  enemy,  whom  they  would  have  sought,  and  slain  far  from  their 
cabins,  who  presents  himself  fearlessly  there,  claims,  and  receives  their 
hospitality.  They  accord  to  the  cabin  hearth  the  honors  and  the  sanctity 
of  an  asylum.  A great  number  of  instances  are  on  record,  of  savages 
of  hostile  tribes,  obnoxions  to  the  most  deadly  revenge  of  particular  war- 
riors, presenting  themselves  on  a sudden  before  those  warriors,  and 
offering  their  bosoms  to  the  knife.  This  heroism  often  not  only  disarms 
revenge,  but  with  admiration  excites  more  generous  feelings  and  brings 
about  a peace  between  the  contending  tribes.  That  part  of  our  charac- 
ter, which  they  are  the  last  to  understand,  is  that  when  we  have  received 
in  their  villages  the  most  ample  hospitality,  they,  in  returning  the  visit, 
should  find,  that  our  strangers  lodged  in  taverns. 

We  have  not  the  same  plenary  faith  in  their  tenacious  remembrance  of 
kindnesses,  and  the  certainty  of  our  dependence  upon  the  constancy  of 
their  friendship.  We  consider  them  a treacherous  people,  easily  swayed 


ABORIGINES , 


121 


from  their  purpose,  paying  their  court  to  the  divinity  of  good  fortune, 
and  always  ready  to  side  with  the  strongest.  We  should  not  rely  upon 
their  feelings  of  to-day,  as  any  pledge  for  what  they  will  be  to-morrow. 

They  are  well  known  for  their  voraciousness  of  appetite.  They  endure 
hunger  and  thirst,  as  they  do  pain  and  death,  with  astonishing  patience 
and  constancy.  When  they  kill  a deer,  a buffalo,  or  a bear,  after  a long- 
abstinence,  they  will  devour  an  enormous  quantity  of  the  flesh.  Their 
fatal  and  devoted  attachment  to  ardent  spirits  is  matter  of  melancholy 
notoriety.  In  all  their  councils,  and  talks  and  conferences  with  the 
officers  of  the  government,  from  lake  Erie  to  the  Rocky  mountains,  the 
first  and  the  last  request  is 4 whiskey.’  This  is  the  only  point,  upon 
which  it  is  useless  to  appeal  to  the  feelings  of  honor  and  shame  in  an 
Indian.  Declaim,  as  we  may,  against  the  use  of  it;  paint  the  ill  effects  of 
it,  as  strongly  as  we  choose;  speak  with  as  much  contempt  as  we  may, 
of  drunkards;  their  best  and  their  bravest  still  clamor  for  whiskey. 
Schoolcraft  gives  us  a characteristic  anecdote  to  this  effect  A noted 
Pottawattomie  chief  presented  himself  to  the  American  agent  at  Chicago, 
as  a good  man,  and  a good  friend  to  the  Americans,  and  concluded  with 
the  usual  request  for  whiskey.  The  reply  was,  that  the  agent  did  not 
give  whiskey  to  good  Indians;  that  such  neither  asked  for  it,  nor  drank  it, 
when  offered;  that  it  was  bad  Indians  only,  who  asked  for  whiskey. 

The  Indian  replied  with  great  quickness,  in  broken  English, 4 Me  d n 

rascal.’ 

All  words  would  be  thrown  away  in  attempting  to  pourtray  in  just 
colors  the  effects  of  whiskey  upon  such  a race.  It  is,  indeed,  the  heaviest 
curse,  that  their  intercourse  with  the  whites  has  entailed  upon  them. 
Every  obligation  of  duty,  as  philanthropists  and  Christians,  imposes 
upon  us  all  possible  efforts  to  prevent  the  extirpation  of  the  whole  race; 
the  inevitable  consequence  of  their  having  free  access  to  this  liquid 
poison.  We  have  adverted  to  the  stern  and  rigorous  prohibitions  of 
the  general  government,  and  the  fidelity  with  which  they  are  generally 
carried  into  effect ; yet,  in  some  way  or  other,  wherever  Americans  have 
access,  Indians  have  whiskey.  It  is  understood,  that  the  laws  of  the 
state  governments  and  of  the  general  government  are  not  in  concert  upon 
this  subject.  It  is  matter  of  undoubted  fact,  that  in  the  states,  the  Indians 
find  much  less  difficulty  in  procuring  whiskey,  than  in  the  territories ; 
and  of  course  intoxication  is  far  more  common.  The  duties  of  the 
states  imperiously  call  upon  them,  to  frame  laws  in  unison  with  those  of 
the  general  government,  and  to  unite  with  that,  to  prevent  these  unhappy 
beings  from  exercising  their  suicide  propensities. 

It  has  been  inferred,  because  they  make  it  a point,  not  to  express  as- 
tonishment,  or  curiosity,  in  view  of  our  improvements  and  arts,  that  they 

16 


122 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


have  little  curiosity;  and  because  they  seem  to  hold  them  in  contempt 
and  disdain,  that  they  have  nothing  analogous  to  the  cupidity,  vanity,  or 
pride  of  the  whites.  They  are,  unquestionably,  a very  proud  race ; and 
their  pride  induces  them  to  affect  indifference,  and  to  hold  those  things  in 
apparent  contempt,  which  they  are  conscious  they  can  not  obtain.  As 
regards  their  vanity,  we  have  not  often  had  the  fortune  to  contemplate  a 
young  squaw  at  her  toilette.  But  from  the  studied  arrangement  of  her 
calico  jacket,  from  the  glaring  circles  of  vermillion  on  her  round  face, 
from  the  artificial  manner,  in  which  her  hair  is  clubbed,  and  from  the 
time,  which  she  occupies  in  completing  these  arrangements,  we  infer, 
that  dress  and  personal  ornament  occupy  the  same  portion  of  her  thoughts 
’ that  they  do  of  the  fashionable  woman  of  civilized  society.  A young 
Indian  warrior,  is  notoriously  the  most  thorough  going  beau  in  the 
world.  Broadway  and  Bond  street,  furnish  no  subjects,  that  will  spend 
as  much  time,  or  endure  as  much  crimping  and  confinement,  to  appear  in 
full  dress.  We  think,  that  we  have  observed  such  a character,  constantly 
employed  with  his  paints  and  his  pocket  glass  for  three  full  hours,  laying 
on  his  paints,  and  arranging  his  tresses,  and  contemplating  with  visible 
satisfaction,  from  time  to  time,  the  progress  of  his  attractions.  The  chiefs 
and  warriors  in  full  dress  have  one,  two  or  three  clasps  of  silver  about 
their  arms,  generally  jewels  in  their  ears,  and  often  in  their  nose;  and 
nothing  is  more  common,  than  to  see  a thin,  circular  piece  of  silver,  of 
the  size  of  a dollar,  hanging  from  their  nose,  a little  below  their  upper 
lip.  This  ornament,  so  horribly  inconvenient,  seems  to  be  one  of  the 
highest  Indian  taste.  Painted  porcupine  quills  are  twirled  in  their  hair. 
Tails  of  animals  hang  from  the  hair  behind;  or  from  the  point,  where 
they  were  originally  appended  to  the  animal.  A necklace  of  bears’  or  ali- 
gator’s  teeth,  or  claws  of  the  bald  eagle,  or  common  red  beads,  or  wanting 
these,  a kind  of  rosary  of  red  hawthorns,  hangs  about  the  neck.  From 
the  knees  to  the  feet  the  legs  are  ornamented  with  great  numbers  of  little 
perforated  cylindrical  pieces  of  silver  or  brass,  that  tinkle,  as  the  person 
walks.  If  to  all  this,  he  add  an  American  hat,  and  a soldier’s  coat  of 
blue,  faced  with  red,  over  the  customary  calico  shirt,  he  steps  firmly  on 
the  ground,  to  give  to  his  tinklers  a simultaneous  noise,  and  apparently 
considers  his  person  with  as  much  complacency,  as  the  human  bosom 
can  be  supposed  to  feel.  This  is  a very  curtailed  view  of  an  Indian 
beau,  and  faithful,  as  far  as  it  goes,  to  the  description  of  almost  every 
young  Indian  at  a great  public  dance. 

So  many  faithful  prints  have  recently  been  presented  to  the  public  of 
the  Indian  figure  and  costume,  that  most  of  those,  who  have  not  seen  the 
living  subject,  have  definite  views  of  it  The  males  for  the  most  part 
wear  leggins,  sitting  closely  from  the  loins  to  the  ancles  generally  of 


ABORIGINES. 


123 


smoke-tanned  dear  skin,  sometimes  of  blue  cloth.  Those,  who  inhabit 
beyond  the  range  of  the  buffalo,  wear  a blanket,  thrown  loosely  over  the 
shoulders ; and  those,  who  live  in  the  region  of  the  buffalo,  wear  a dressed 
skin  of  that  animal  Their  moccasins  are  ornamented  wjth  extreme  care, 
with  different  colored  porcupine  quills,  arranged  in  lines  and  compart- 
ments. But  in  the  sultry  months,  they  are  often  seen  with  no  other 
dress,  than  a piece  of  blue  cloth,  in  the  language  of  the  country, ( stroud- 
ing,’  passed  between  the  thighs,  and  brought  round  the  loins.  In  regions 
contiguous  to  the  whites,  they  have  generally  a calico  shirt  of  the  finest 
colors ; and  they  are  particularly  attached  to  a long  calico  dress,  resem- 
bling a morning  gown. 

The  women  have  a calico  jacket,  leggins,  not  much  unlike  those  of 
the  men,  and  wherever  they  can  afford  it,  a blue  broadcloth  petticoat. 
We  do  not  remember  to  have  seen  Indians  either  male  or  female,  affect 
any  other  colors,  than  red  or  blue.  The  thick,  heavy,  black  tresses  of 
hair  are  parted  on  the  forehead,  and  skewered  with  a quill  or  thorn  in  a 
large  club  behind. 

They  have  various  dances,  to  which  they  are  extravagantly  attached  j 
and  which  often  have,  as  did  the  dances  of  the  old  time,  a religious 
character.  The  aged  council  chiefs  drum,  and  the  young  warriors  dance 
with  great  vehemence,  beating  the  ground  with  their  feet.  They  pursue 
the  business  with  a vigor,  which  causes  the  perspiration  to  pour  from 
their  bodies.  They  have  the  war,  the  council,  the  feast,  and  the  dog 
dance ; and  tunes  corresponding  to  the  different  objects.  The  tunes  are 
very  monotonous,  running  through  only  three  or  four  notes,  and  con- 
stantly recurring  to  the  same  strain.  In  most  of  the  tribes,  the  women 
take  no  part  in  the  song  or  dance. — Among  some  of  the  tribes,  we 
have  heard  the  women  chime  in  on  the  last  note. 

incredible  stories  are  related  of  the  powers  of  their  jugglers  and  moun- 
tebanks. Many  of  their  alleged  feats  never  took  place,  except  in  the 
imaginations  of  the  ignorant  people,  who  related  them.  But  they  have 
undoubtedly,  a rigidity  of  muscle,  a callousness  of  nerve,  and  a contempt 
of  pain  and  wounds,  that  enable  them  to  achieve  swallowing  fire,  putting 
knives  and  swords  down  their  throats,  and  such  like  exploits  with  great 
success.  To  create  admiration  is  of  course  a passion  with  them;  and 
this  desire  incites  them  to  thought  and  study,  in  order  to  learn  the  mystic 
art  of  legerdemain,  in  which  they  certainly  attain  no  inconsiderable  pro- 
ficiency. Their  medicine  men  are  a kind  of  jugglers  • and  there  is  much 
ceremony  and  affectation  of  mystery,  in  the  preparing  and  administering 
their  medicines.  The  most  amusing  part  of  this  business  is,  that  the 
scaramouch  who  has  gone  through  all  the  ceremonies,  and  prepared  the 
medicine,  generally  takes  it  himself  We  have  little  faith  in  their 


124 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


boasted  acquaintance  with  remedies,  from  their  own  vegetable  kingdom. 
We  have  remarked,  that  when  they  were  near  our  settlements,  their 
sick  are  in  the  habit  of  applying  to  our  physicians. 

The  Indian  head  is  such,  as  we  would  suppose  the  craniologists  would 
select,  as  finely  moulded  for  intelligence.  In  this  respect  he  would 
probably  place  them,  as  a race,  beside  the  homo  sapaiens  Europeans. 
We  have  seen  them  in  every  position,  to  try  native  acuteness.  We  have 
taught  their  young.  We  consider  them  naturally  a shrewd,  intelligent 
people,  with  heads  capable  of  the  highest  mental  developement  in  every 
department  of  thought,  in  as  great  a degree,  as  our  own  race.  They 
have,  probably,  as  much  curiosity,  but  a more  stern  perseverance  in  the 
effort  to  suppress  it.  The  first  time  that  they  witness  a steam  boat,  they 
never  suppress  the  outward  expression  of  their  admiration,  and  their  em 
phatic  4 ugh  ! ’ 

Languages.  It  can  not  be  expected,  that  we  should  dismiss  this 
article,  which  with  every  effort  to  curtail  it,  has  grown  up  under  our  hands, 
without  remarking  upon  their  languages.  In  all  their  dialects  we  sus- 
pect, that,  like  the  Chinese,  their  words  were  originally  but  of  one  syllable. 
— Every  word,  then,  of  more  than  one  syllable,  has  been  formed  in  the 
progress  of  advancing  ideas  among  them,  by  a corresponding  com- 
bination of  ideas.  Having  few  abstractions  among  their  ideas,  and 
knowing  and  caring  little  about  our  complex  combinations  of  thought, 
conversable  wholly  with  tangible  and  visible  matters,  their  expressions 
are  paintings  of  sensible  ideas  with  the  coloring  matter  of  woids.  When- 
ever we  undertake  to  convey  to  them  a connected  chain  of  abstract  ideas, 
they  turn  to  us  fora  while  with  a complacent  inclination  of  the  head,  and 
apply  their  hand  to  their  ear,  with  the  sign,  so  readily  understood  by  all 
Indians  to  imply,  that  they  are  deaf.  Their  manner  of  numbering,  evL 
dences  the  extreme  simplicity  of  their  language.  We  have  requested 
of  all  the  tribes,  with  which  we  have  been  conversant,  their  terms  of 
numbering,  as  far  as  an  hundred.  In  some  the  terms  are  simple  as  far  as 
ten.  In  others  six  is  five-one,  seven  five-two,  and  so  on.  Beyond  ten 
they  generally  count  by  reduplication  of  the  ten.  This  they  perform  by 
a mechanical  arithmetic,  intricate  to  explain,  but  readily  apprehended  by 
the  eye.  Some  of  the  tribes  are  said  to  be  perplexed  in  their  attempts  to 
number  beyond  an  hundred.  When  the  question  turned  upon  any  point, 
that  involved  great  numbers,  we  have  generally  heard  them  avail  them- 
selves of  an  English  word,  the  first,  we  believe,  and  the  most  universally 
understood  by  savages — heap  ! We  have  read,  that  in  some  of  their  lan- 
guages, there  are  subtleties  of  structure,  and  nice  shades  of  divisions  of 
time,  in  the  tenses  of  their  verbs,  that  transcend  even  the  famed  exact- 
ness and  finish  of  the  Greek.  There  is  something  inexplicable;  it  must  be 


ABORIGINES,  125 

admitted,  in  the  combinations  and  artificial  structure  of  the  language  of 
a people  of  such  extreme  simplicity  of  thought. 

We  profess  to  know  little  of  the  origin  of  these  languages.  We  suspect, 
that  a life  might  be  spent  in  studying  them  in  the  closet  to  very  little  pur- 
pose. The  savages  vary  their  meaning  by  the  accent  and  intonation,  which 
they  give  their  words,  still  more  than  the  French.  We  fear,  that  a printed 
page  of  Indian  words,  most  carefully  and  accurately  noted  by  the  marks  of 
accent  and  sound  in  our  dictionaries,  could  hardly  be  read  by  an  unpractised 
American  so  as  to  be  intelligible  to  the  Indian,  whose  language  they 
purport  to  be.  We  suppose  the  Muskogee  and  Cherokee  to  be  the 
patriarchel  dialects  of  the  south;  the  Chippeway  and  Dacota,  of  the 
Indians  of  the  lakes  and  the  upper  Mississippi;  and  the  Osage  and 
Pawnee,  of  the  Savages  of  Missouri,  Arkansas  and  Red  river.  We  should 
not  forget,  that  they  have  a language  of  signs, — the  Latin,  or  common 
language,  by  which  all  the  tribes  converse  with  each  other.  It  is  a trite 
maxim,  that  necessity  is  the  mother  of  invention ; and  it  is  inconceivable, 
except  by  those  who  have  witnessed  it,  how  copious  and  expressive  a 
language  they  have  formed  with  signs.  In  Long’s  first  expedition  a full 
and  accurate  vocabulary  of  this  language  is  given. 

After  all,  that,  which  has  struck  us  in  contemplating  the  Indians  with 
the  most  astonishment  and  admiration,  is  the  invisible  but  universal 
energy  of  the  operation  and  influence  of  an  inexplicable  law,  which  has? 
where  it  operates,  a more  certain  and  controlling  power,  than  all  the 
municipal  and  written  laws  of  the  whites  united.  There  is  despotic 
rule,  without  any  hereditary  or  elected  chief.  There  are  chiefs  with 
great  power,  who  cannot  tell  when,  where,  or  how  they  became  such.  There 
is  perfect  unanimity  in  a question  involving  the  existence  of  a tribe, 
where  every  member  belonged  to  the  wild  and  fierce  democracy  of  nature, 
and  could  dissent,  without  giving  a reason.  A case  occurs,  where  it  is 
prescribed  by  custom,  that  an  individual  should  be  punished  with  death. 
Escaped  far  from  the  control  of  his  tribe,  and  as  free  as  the  winds,  this 
invisible  tie  is  about  him;  and  he  returns,  and  surrenders  himself  to 
justice.  His  accounts  are  not  settled,  and  he  is  in  debt;  he  requests 
delay,  till  he  shall  have  accomplished  his  summer’s  hunt.  He  finishes  it, 
pays  his  debt,  and  dies  with  a constancy,  which  has  always  been,  in  all 
views  of  Indian  character,  the  theme  of  admiration. 

A serious  question  occurs  in  conclusion.  What  is  the  prospect  of 
bringing  to  these  rugged  and  comfortless  beings,  apparently  the  outcasts 
of  nature  and  civilization,  the  moulding,  the  guidance  and  hopes  of  the 
Gospel? — The  gloomy  fact  must  be  admitted,  that  but  little  has  yet  been 
done.  Pious  and  devoted  Catholic  missionaries  have  carried  their  lives 
in  their  hands,  have  renounced  all  earthly  hopes,  and  have  lived  and  died 


126 


* 

MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY# 

among  them,  to  carry  them  the  gospel.  The  Protestants  have  not  been 
behind  them  in  these  labors  of  love.  But  after  the  lapse  of  more  than  a 
century,  scarcely  an  adult  savage  can  be  found,  west  of  the  Mississippi, 
who  will  pronounce  himself  a Christian.  There  are  many,  that  have 
crosses  suspended  from  their  necks,  which  they  show,  as  they  do  their 
medals.  They  seem  to  think,  that  the  profession  of  Christianity  gives 
them  additional  claims  upon  us.  While  we  were  writing,  some  Appala- 
chy  Indians  applied  to  the  judge  of  the  district,  where  we  resided,  for 
redress.  They  spoke  of  the  alleged  outrage  in  terms  of  indignant 
feeling.  lNous  sommes  baptises?  we  have  been  baptised,  said  they; 
and  appeared  to  feel,  as  if  this  gave  the  outrage  a greater  enormity.  We 
are  sure,  that  if  any  effort  can  have  marks  of  moral  heroism,  and  noble- 
ness of  self-devotion  beyond  another,  the  self-devotion  of  missionaries 
among  the  savages  is  the  noblest  of  all.  Surely,  if  any  men  merit  earnest 
wishes  and  prayers  for  their  success,  it  must  be  those  men,  who  have 
left  the  precincts  of  every  thing,  that  is  desirable  in  life,  to  go  into  these 
solitudes,  and  take  in  hand,  these  uniformed  children  of  nature. 

There  are  some  circumstances,  which  invest  the  present  missionary 
efforts  with  stronger  probabilities  of  success,  than  any,  that  have  preceded 
them.  The  number  of  Indians,  that  are  half  breeds,  or  mixtures  of  the 
blood  of  the  whites,  is  great,  and  continually  increasing.  These  gener- 
ally espouse,  either  from  conviction,  or  from  party  feeling,  the  interest 
of  civilization  and  Christianity.  It  is  more  universally,  than  it  once 
was,  a conviction,  that  Christianity  is  the  religion  of  social  and  civilized 
man.  Instead  of  relying  much  on  the  hope  of  the  conversion  of  adult 
hunting  and  warrior  savages,  the  effort  is  chiefly  directed  towards  the 
young.  Schools,  the  loom,  the  anvil,  the  plough,  are  sent  to  them. 
Amidst  the  comfort,  stability  and  plenty  of  cultivation,  they  are  to  be 
imbued  with  a taste  for  our  institutions,  arts,  industry  and  religion,  at 
the  same  time. — Every  benevolent  man  will  wish  these  efforts  of  benevo- 
lence all  possible  success. 

Monuments.  The  tumuli,  or  mounds  of  the  western  country,  are 
first  seen  on  the  southern  shores  of  lake  Erie.  We  trace  them  through 
the  western  parts  of  New  York.  We  find  them  increasing  in  numbers 
and  size  in  the  state  of  Ohio.  They  are  seen  thence,  with  more  or  less 
frequency,  over  all  the  valley ; and  from  Humboldt  we  learn,  that  mounds 
of  a similar  character  abound  in  Mexico.  If  so  much  had  not  been 
already  written  upon  the  subject,  we  should  hold  it  idle  to  detain  the 
reader  a moment,  in  useless  dissertation  upon  the  question,  by  whom 
these  mounds  were  formed,  and  for  what  purposes?  As  every  opinion 
on  the  point  must  rest  entirely  upon  conjecture,  without  the  slightest 


MONUMENTS. 


m 


rational  element,  on  which  to  found  it,  we  shall  discover  at  once,  that 
such  dissertations  could  throw  no  certain  light  on  the  subject.  Whether 
the  mass  of  them  was  constructed  for  fortifications,  observatories,  tem- 
ples, or  tombs,  it  is  hopeless  to  enquire.  That  some  of  them  served  for 
the  last  purpose,  we  have  the  conclusive  evidence,  that  they  abound  in 
human  bones.  It  has  been  often  asserted,  that  some  of  the  mounds  are 
full  of  bones,  that  are  perforated,  as  though  the  living  subjects  were  slain 
in  battle;  and  that  the  skeletons  are  heaped  together  in  promiscuous 
confusion,  as  if  buried  after  a conflict,  without  order  or  arrangement. 
The  bones,  which  we  have  seen,  were  such,  and  so  arranged,  as  might  be 
expected  in  the  common  process  of  solemn  and  deliberate  inhumation. 
The  mounds  show  no  more  art,  though  infinitely  more  labor,  than  might 
be  expected  from  the  present  Indians.  They  are  mere  erections  of  earth, 
exhibiting  no  other  trace  of  skill,  than  that  most  of  them  are  of  regular 
forms,  contained  under  circular  or  right  lines.  Iron  tools  were  not  used 
in  the  formation  of  them.  Stone  makes  no  part  of  them.  Yet  many  of 
the  squares  and  parallelograms  make  a much  more  conspicuous  figure* 
after  the  lapse  of  unknown  ages,  than  the  defences  of  earth,  thrown  up 
on  the  Atlantic  shore,  during  the  revolutionary  war. 

Some  of  them  are  said  to  be  found  on  hills.  We  have  seen  none  such. 
They  are  generally  on  fertile  wooded  bottoms,  plains,  or  the  richer  allu- 
vial prairies,  where  wild  fruits,  game  and  fish  are  abundant  and  at  hand. 
The  most  dense  ancient  population  existed  precisely  in  the  places  where 
the  most  crowded  future  population  will  exist  in  the  generations  to  comeo 
The  appearance  of  a series  of  mounds  generally  indicates  the  contiguity 
of  rich  and  level  lands,  easy  communications,  fish,  game,  and  the  most 
favorable  adjacent  positions.  The  only  circumstance,  which  strongly 
discredits  their  having  been  formed  by  the  progenitors  of  the  present 
Indians,  is  the  immensity  of  the  size  of  some  of  them,  beyond  what 
could  be  expected  from  the  sparse  population  and  the  indolence  of  the 
present  race.  We  know  of  no  monuments,  which  they  now  raise  for 
their  dead,  that  might  not  be  the  work  of  a few  people  in  a few  days. 
We  have  seen  mounds,  which  would  require  the  labor  of  a thousand  of 
the  men  employed  on  our  canals,  with  all  their  mechanical  aids,  and  the1 
improved  implements  of  their  labor  for  months.  We  have,  more  than 
once,  hesitated  in  view  of  one  of  these  prodigious  mounds,  whether  it 
were  not  really  a natural  hill.  But  they  are  uniformly  so  placed,  in 
reference  to  the  adjoining  country,  and  their  conformation  is  so  unique 
and  similar,  that  no  eye  hesitates  long  in  referring  them  to  the  class  of 
artificial  erections.  The  largest,  that  has  been  discovered  in  the  Ohio 
valley,  as  far  as  we  know,  is  in  the  bottom  of  Grave  creek,  near  it& 
entrance  into  the  Ohio,  and  fourteen  miles  below  Wheeling.  It  is  between 


128 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


thirty  and  forty  rods  in  circumference  at  its  base,  with  a proportionate 
diameter.  It  is  seventy  feet  in  perpendicular  height;  and  has  a table 
area  on  its  summit,  which  is  sixty  feet  in  diameter,  in  the  centre  of  which 
is  a great  and  regular  concavity.  A single  white  oak  rises  from  this 
concavity,  like  a flag  staff. 

The  most  numerous  group  of  mounds,  that  we  have  seen,  is  near 
Cahokia,  in  the  American  bottom.  There  are  said  to  be  two  hundred 
in  all.  The  largest  is  on  the  banks  of  Cahokia  creek.  Its  form  is  that 
of  a parallelogram.  Its  circumference  is  commonly  given  at  eight 
hundred  yards,  and  its  height  at  ninety  feet.  There  is  a terrace  on  the 
south  side  of  it.  The  monks  of  La  Trappe  had  a monastery  adjoining 
it,  and  their  garden  was  on  the  terrace.  They  cultivated  the  mound. 
The  earth  could  not  have  furnished  them  a place,  more  in  keeping  with 
their  profession  and  avowed  objects.  In  the  midst  of  the  American 
bottom,  perhaps  the  most  fertile  spot  on  the  globe,  exerting  its  exhaust- 
less fertility  only  in  the  production  of  dense  forest,  or  a useless  luxuriance 
of  weeds  and  flowers,  all  in  view  of  their  dwelling  is  a solitary  prairie. 
A few  dreaming  men,  vowed  to  perpetual  silence,  apparently  belonging 
more  to  another  world,  than  this,  seat  themselves  on  one  of  these  lonely 
and  inexplicable  monuments  of  generations,  that  are  now  no  more,  in 
the  midst  of  gigantic  weeds,  gaudy  flowers,  and  rank  grass. — No  noise 
disturbs  them,  by  day  or  night,  but  the  chirping  of  the  grasshopper,  or 
the  cry  of  wolves,  or  the  hooting  of  owls. 

There  are  very  interesting  mounds  near  St.  Louis,  a little  north  of  the 
town.  Some  of  them  have  the  aspect  of  enormous  stacks.  That  one 
of  them,  called  the  i falling  garden,’  is  generally  pointed  out,  as  a great, 
curiosity. — One  of  these  mounds,  and  it  was  a very  striking  one,  was 
levelled  in  the  centre  of  Chillicothe.  In  digging  it  down,  it  is  said, 
there  were  removed  cart  loads  of  human  bones.  The  town  of  Circleville, 
in  Ohio,  is  principally  laid  out  within  the  limits  of  a couple  of  contigu- 
ous mounds;  the  one  circular,  the  other  square.  The  town  has  its  name 
from  its  position,  chiefly  in  the  circular  mound.  In  this,  and  in  many 
other  mounds,  the  singular  circumstance  is  said  to  exist,  and  by  people, 
who  live  near  them,  and  ought  to  know  that,  of  which  they  affirm,  that 
the  earth,  of  which  they  are  composed,  is  entirely  distinct  from  that  in 
the  vicinity.  It  is  of  no  avail  to  enquire,  why  the  builders  should  have 
encountered  the  immense  toil,  to  bring  these  hills  of  earth  from  another 
place  ? 

Our  country  has  been  described  abroad,  as  sterile  of  moral  interest. 
We  have,  it  is  said,  no  monuments,  no  ruins,  none  of  the  colossal  remains 
of  temples,  and  baronial  castles,  and  monkish  towers;  nothing  to  connect 
the  imagination  and  the  heart  with  the  past;  none  of  the  dim  recollec- 


POPULATION. 


129 


tions  of  times  gone  by,  to  associate  the  past  with  the  future.  We  have 
not  travelled  in  other  lands.  But  in  passing  over  our  vast  prairies,  in 
viewing  our  noble  and  ancient  forests,  planted  by  nature,  and  nurtured 
only  by  ages;  when  we  have  seen  the  sun  rising  over  a boundless  plain, 
where  the  blue  of  the  heavens  in  all  directions  touched,  and  mingled 
with  the  verdure  of  the  flowers;  when  our  thoughts  have  traversed  rivers 
of  a thousand  leagues  in  length;  when  we  have  seen  the  ascending  steam 
boat  breasting  the  surge,  and  gleaming  through  the  verdure  of  the  trees; 
when  we  have  imagined  the  happy  multitudes,  that  from  these  shores 
will  contemplate  this  scenery  in  days  to  come ; we  have  thought,  that 
our  great  country  might  at  least  compare  with  any  other,  in  the  beauty  of 
its  natural  scenery.  When,  on  an  uninhabited  prairie,  we  have  fallen  at 
nightfall  upon  a group  of  these  mounds,  and  have  thought  of  the  masses 
of  human  bones,  that  moulder  beneath ; when  the  .heart  and  the  imagin- 
ation evoke  the  busy  multitudes,  that  here  strutted  through  life’s  poor 
play,’  and  ask  the  phantoms  who  and  what  they  were,  and  why  they  have 
left  no  memorials,  but  these  mounds;  we  have  found  ample  scope  for 
reflections  and  associations  of  the  past  with  the  future.  We  should  not 
highly  estimate  the  mind,  or  the  heart  of  the  man,  who  could  behold  these 
tombs  Of  the  prairies  without  deep  thought. 

These  regions  bear  ample  testimonials  of  another  sort,  of  a world 
gone  by.  Beside  the  human  skeletons,  found  in  the  nitre  caves,  and  at 
the  Maramec,  of  which  we  shall  have  occasion  to  speak  in  another  place, 
there  are  found  at  the  licks,  and,  as  habitancy  and  cultivation  bring  us 
more  acquainted  with  what  is  concealed  beneath  the  soil,  over  all  the 
valley,  masses  of  bones  of  animals  of  enormous  size,  to  which  the  name 
of  mammoth  and  megalonyx  have  been  given.  A ship’s  cargo  could 
easily  be  furnished.— The  bones  of  animals  of  different  classes,  forms 
and  sizes,  from  any  that  are  now  known  to  exist,  and  different,  too,  from 
the  mammoth,  are  discovered  in  the  same  places  with  these  huge  remains. 
While  we  are  writing,  they  are  exhibiting  at  New  Orleans  the  bones  of 
an  animal,  to  which  the  mammoth  itself  must  have  been  a pigmy,  found 
near  Plaquemine,  on  the  Mississippi,  below  that  city.— They  have  been 
asserted,  and  denied  to  be  the  bones  of  a whale.  A diligent  and  unwea- 
ried antiquarian,  in  the  state  of  Ohio,  affirms,  that  he  has  discovered,  in 
laying  open  the  earth  in  his  geological  examinations,  the  wood  and  the 
leaves  of  the  bread-fruit  tree,  and  other  vegetable  tropical  remains. 
Whatever  credit  this  opinion  may  receive,  all  admit,  that  every  part  of 
the  Mississippi  valley  is  marked  with  monuments  of  immense  and  inex- 
plicable changes  in  the  natural  world,  and  of  races  of  animals  and  men, 
that  are  now  no  more. 


17 


130 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Present  Population.  The  progress  of  the  population  of  this  coun- 
try, as  every  one  knows,  is  without  any  example  or  parallel  in  the  records 
of  other  colonies,  in  ancient  or  modern  times ; not  excepting  even  the 
annals  of  the  advancement  of  the  Atlantic  country.  We  can  remember, 
when  all  this  country,  except  the  ancient  French  colonies  in  it,  was  an 
unknown  and  unpeopled  wilderness.  The  first  settlers  encountered 
incredible  hardships  and  dangers.  But  only  open  before  Americans  a 
fertile  soil  and  a mild  climate,  and  their  native  enterprise,  fostered  by 
the  stimulant  effect  of  freedom  and  mild  laws,  will  overcome  every  irm 
pediment.  Sickness,  solitude,  mountains,  the  war -hoop,  the  merciless 
tomahawk,  wolves,  panthers,  and  bears,  dear  and  distant  homes,  forsaken 
forever,  will  come  over  their  waking  thoughts,  and  revisit  their  dreams 
in  vain,  to  prevent  the  young,  florid  and  unportioned  pair  from  scaling 
remote  mountains,  descending  long  rivers,  and  finally  selecting  their 
spot  in  the  forests,  consecrating  their  solitary  cabin  with  the  dear  and 
sacred  name  of  home. 

The  following  synoptical  view  will  show,  in  a few  words,  the  astonish- 
ing advance  of  this  population.  In  1790,  the  population  of  this  valley, 
exclusive  of  the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi,  and  of  Florida,  which 
were  not  then  within  our  territorial  limits,  was  estimated  by  enumeration, 
at  little  more  than  100,000.  In  1800,  it  was  something  short  of  380,000,, 
In  1810,  it  was  short  of  a million.  In  1820,  including  the  population 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  rating  the  population  of  Florida  at  20,000,  and 
that  of  the  parts  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia  included  in  this  valley  at 
300,000,  and  it  will  give  the  population  of  1820  at  2,500,000.  The 
present  population  may  be  rated  at  4,000,000.  It  will  be  perceived  that 
this  is  an  increase,  in  more  than  a duplicate  ratio  in  ten  years. 

Some  considerable  allowance  must  be  made,  of  course,  for  the  flood 
of  immigration,  which  can  not  reasonably  be  expected  to  set  this  way, 
for  the  future  as  strongly  as  it  has  for  the  past.  Ohio,  with  the  largest 
and  most  dense  population  of  any  of  the  western  states,  has  nearly  double 
the  number  of  inhabitants,  by  the  census  of  1830,  which  she  had  by  that 
of  1820. — During  that  interval,  her  gain  by  immigration  has  scarcely 
equalled  her  loss  by  emigration ; and,  of  course,  is  simply  that  of  natural 
increase.  In  the  rapidity  of  this  increase,  we  believe,  this  state  not  only 
exceeds  any  other  in  the  west,  but  in  the  world.  It  is  the  good  natured 
jest  of  all,  who  travel  through  the  western  states,  that  however  productive 
in  other  harvests,  they  are  still  more  so  in  an  unequalled  crop  of  flaxen 
headed  children;  and  that  ‘this  is  the  noble  growth  our  realms  supply.1 
We  have  a million  more  inhabitants,  than  the  thirteen  good  old  United 
States,  when  at  the  commencement  of  the  revolutionary  war,  they  threw 


POPULATION.  131 

down  the  gauntlet  in  the  face  of  the  parent  country,  then  the  most 
powerful  empire  on  the  globe. 

Notwithstanding  the  impression,  so  generally  entertained  in  the  Atlan- 
tic country,  that  this  valley  is  universally  unhealthy,  and  notwithstanding 
the  necessary  admission,  that  fever  and  ague  is  prevalent  to  a great  and 
an  annoying  degree,  the  stubborn  facts,  above  stated,  demonstrate, 
beyond  all  possibility  of  denial,  that  no  country  is  more  propitious  to 
increase  by  natural  population.  Wherever  the  means  of  easy,  free  and 
ample  subsistence  are  provided,  it  is  in  the  nature  and  order  of  human 
things,  that  population  should  increase  rapidly.  In  such  a country, 
though  some  parts  of  it  should  prove  sickly,  perseverance  will  ultimately 
triumph  over  even  this  impediment,  the  most  formidable  of  all.  In  that 
fertile  region,  for  the  insalubrious  districts  are  almost  invariably  those  of 
the  highest  fertility,  immigrants  will  arrive,  become  sickly,  and  discour- 
aged; and,  perhaps,  return  with  an  evil  report  of  the  country.  In  the 
productive  and  sickly  sections  of  the  south,  allured  by  its  rich  products, 
and  its  exemption  from  winter,  adventurers  will  successively  arrive,  fix 
themselves,  become  sickly,  and  it  may  be,  die.  Others,  lusting  for 
gain,  and  with  that  recklessness  to  the  future,  for  wise  ends  awarded  us 
by  Providence,  and  undismayed  by  the  fate  of  those,  who  have  preceded 
them,  will  replace  them.  By  culture,  draining,  the  feeding  of  cattle,  and 
the  opening  the  country  to  the  fever-banishing  breeze,  the  atmosphere  is 
found  gradually  to  meliorate.  The  inhabitants,  taught  by  experience  and 
suffering,  come  by  degrees  to  learn  the  climate,  the  diseases,  and  preven- 
tives; and  a race  will  finally  stand,  which  will  possess  the  adaptation  to 
the  country,  which  results  from  acclimation:  and  even  these  sections  are 
found,  in  time,  to  have  a degree  of  natural  increase  of  population  with 
the  rest.  Such  has  proved  to  be  the  steady  advance  of  things  in  the 
sickliest  points  of  the  south.  The  rapidity  of  our  increase  in  numbers 
multiplies  the  difficulties  of  subsistence,  and  stimulates  and  sharpens  the 
swarming  faculties  and  propensities  in  the  parent  hive,  and  will  cause, 
that  in  due  lapse  of  time  and  progress  of  things,  every  fertile  quarter 
section  in  this  valley  will  sustain  its  family. 

Another  pleasant  circumstance  appended  to  this  view  is,  that  almost 
the  entire  population  of  the  valley  are  cultivators  of  the  soil.  The  in- 
habitants of  crowded  towns  and  villages,  the  numerous  artizans  and 
laborers  in  manufactories,  can  neither  be,  as  a mass,  so  healthy,  so  virtu- 
ous, or  happy,  as  free  cultivators  of  the  soil.  The  man,  whose  daily 
range  of  prospect  is  dusty  streets,  or  smoky  and  dead  brick  walls,  and 
whose  views  become  limited  by  habit  to  the  enclosure  of  these  walls* 
who  depends  for  his  subsistence  on  the  daily  supplies  of  the  market;  and 
whose  motives  to  action  are  elicited  by  constant  and  hourly  struggle 


132 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


and  competition  with  his  fellows ; will  have  the  advantage  in  some  points* 
over  the  secluded  tenant  of  a cabin,  or  a farm  house.  But  still,  taking 
every  thing  into  the  calculation,  we  would  choose  to  be  the  owner  of  half 
a section  of  land,  and  daily  contemplate  nature,  as  we  tilled  the  soil, 
aided  in  that  primitive  and  noble  employment  by  our  own  vigorous  chil- 
dren. The  dweller  in  towns  and  villages  may  have  more  of  the  air  and 
tone  of  society,  and  his  daughters  may  keep  nearer  to  the  changes  of 
the  fashions.  But  we  have  little  doubt,  that,  in  striking  the  balance  of 
enjoyment,  rthe  latter  will  be  found  to  be  the  happier  man,  and  more 
likely  to  have  a numerous  and  healthy  family.  The  people  of  the  West, 
with  very  small  deductions,  are  cultivators  of  the  soil.  All,  that  are 
neither  idle,  nor  unable  to  labor,  have  a rural  abundance  of  the  articles 
which  the  soil  can  furnish,  far  beyond  the  needs  of  the  country;  and  it  is 
one  of  our  most  prevalent  complaints,  that  this  abundance  is  far  beyond 
the  chances  of  profitable  sale. 

Ohio,  has,  palpably,  more  of  the  northern  propensity  to  form  villages, 
and  condense  population,  than  any  other  of  the  western  states.  Of  course, 
her  people  have  a readier  aptitude  for  an  artizan’s  life,  and  a manufac- 
turer’s condition.  We  suppose,  that  at  least  half  the  manufacturers 
of  the  West  inhabit  the  region,  of  which  Pittsburgh  and  the  state  of  Ohio 
are  the  centre.  Her  sons,  too,  have  the  New  England  aspiration  to  be- 
come scholars,  and  professional  men,  and  merchants  and  traders.  Ken- 
tucky and  Ohio  send  abroad  their  circulating  phalanxes  of  this  kind  of 
foragers,  to  compete  with  the  Yankees  for  the  professions  and  trade  of 
the  more  western  states.  In  Ohio  this  class  bears  by  far  the  greatest 
proportion  to  the  cultivators,  of  any  part  of  the  valley.  Yet  in  Ohio, 
from  the  returns  of  the  very  accurate  census  of  1820  it  appears,  that 
out  of  a population  of  nearly  600,000,  there  were  only  18,956  manu- 
facturers, and  1,459  merchants  and  traders.  Thus  it  appears,  that  nearly 
twenty-nine  out  of  thirty  of  this  whole  population  were  engaged  in 
agriculture. 

It  would  require  a separate  and  distinct  article,  if  we  were  to  trace  the 
influence  of  slavery  upon  population  and  improvement.  This  discussion 
too,  would  more  properly  fall  under  the  head  of  an  article,  presenting  a 
contrasted  view  of  the  condition  and  progress  of  the  slave  holding, 
comparing  with  the  non-slave  holding  states.  It  is  sufficient  for  our 
present  purposes  to  remark,  that  with  the  exception  of  some  districts 
that  are  particularly  sickly,  the  blacks  increase  still  more  rapidly  than 
the  whites. 

From  the  general  fertility  of  the  soil,  and  the  abundance  with  which  it 
yields  all  the  supplies  of  life;  from  the  comparative  rareness  and  small 
proportion  of  sterile,  mountainous  and  marshy  lands,  that  can  not  be  easily 


POPULATION. 


133 


brought  into  cultivation ; no  thinking  mind  can  have  failed  to  foresee? 
that  this  country  must  and  will  ultimately  sustain  a great  and  dense  pop- 
ulation of  farmers.  Taking  into  view  soil?  climate,  and  the  means  of 
easy  communication,  the  most  material  and  natural  elements  upon  which 
to  calculate,  in  regard  to  future  increase  of  population,  and  no  country 
can  be  found,  which  invites  increase  more  strongly,  than  ours.  In  half 
a century,  the  settled  parts  of  it  will,  probably,  have  become  as  healthy 
as  any  other  country.  In  that  lapse  of  time,  it  can  hardly  be  sanguine 
to  calculate,  that  by  improving  the  navigation  of  the  existing  rivers,  by 
the  numerous  canals  which  will  be  made,  in  aid  of  what  nature  has 
already  done,  in  a region  where  there  are  no  mountains,  and  few  high 
hills,  and  no  intermixture  of  refractory  granite,*  where  the  rivers,  which 
rise  almost  in  the  same  level,  interlock,  and  then  wind  away  in  opposite 
directions;  where,  from  these  circumstances,  and  the  absence  of  granite 
hills,  canals  can  be  made  with  comparative  ease;  that  the  country  will 
be  permeated  in  every  direction,  either  by  steam  boats,  or  sea  vessels 
towed  by  them,  or  by  transport  conducted  by  rail-road  power.  No  coun- 
try, it  is  generally  supposed  here,  can  be  found,  which  contains  so  great 
a proportion  of  cultivable  and  habitable  land,  compared  with  the  whole 
extent  of  its  surface. — Humboldt,  so  well  qualified  to  judge  by  compari- 
son, has  pronounced  it  the  largest  valley  in  the  world.  It  has  a less  pro- 
portion of  swamps,  sterile  plains,  and  uncultivable  mountains,  than  any 
other  region  of  the  same  extent. — -When  it  shall  have  been  inhabited  as 
long  as  Massachusetts  and  Virginia,  what  limits  can  imagination  assign 
to  its  population  and  improvement  ? 

No  one  can  fail  to  have  foreseen,  at  this  time  of  the  day,  that  the  period 
is  not  far  distant,  when  the  greater  mass  of  the  population  of  our  coun- 
try will  be  on  this  side  the  mountains.  We  would  not  desire,  in  antici- 
pation, to  vex  the  question,  where  the  centre  of  our  national  government 
will  then  be?  We  are  connected  already  with  the  Atlantic  country  by 
noble  roads.  We  shall  shortly  be  connected  with  the  Hudson,  Delaware 
and  Chesapeake  bays,  by  navigable  canals.  A rail-road  between  Balti- 
more and  the  Ohio  is  in  rapid  progress,  and  thousands  have  travelled  on 
the  first  completed  section.  Our  different  physical  conformation  of 
country,  and  the  moral  circumstances  of  our  condition,  have  assigned  to 
us,  as  we  think,  agriculture,  as  our  chief  pursuit.  Suppose  manufac- 
tures to  flourish  among  us  to  the  utmost  extent,  which  our  most  honest 
and  earnest  patriots  could  desire,  and  we  should  still,  as  we  think,  find 
ourselves  bound  by  the  ties  of  a thousand  wants,  to  the  country  north 
and  east  of  the  mountains.  The  very  difference  of  our  physical  and 
moral  character  contributes  to  form  a chain  of  mutual  wants,  holding  us  [ 
l-o  that  region  by  the  indissoluble  tie  of  mutual  interest.  At  present? 


131 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


the  passage  of  the  mountains,  formerly  estimated  by  the  Atlantic  people 
something  like  an  India  voyage,  and  not  without  its  dangers,  as  well  as 
its  difficulties,  is  no  more,  than  a trip  of  pleasure  of  two  or  three  days. 
We  shall  soon  be  able  to  sail,  at  the  writing  desk,  or  asleep,  from  New 
Orleans,  Fort  Mandan,  or  Prairie  du  Chien,  through  the  interior  forests 
to  the  beautiful  bay  of  New  York.  The  time  is  not  distant,  when  the 
travelled  citizens  of  the  other  side  the  mountains  will  not  be  willing  to 
admit,  that  he  has  not  taken  an  autumnal  or  vernal  trip  of  pleasure,  or 
observation,  from  Pittsburgh  to  New  Orleans.  The  landscape  painter 
and  the  poet  will  come  among  us,  to  study  and  admire  our  forest,  river 
and  prairie  scenery,  and  to  imbibe  new  ideas,,  from  contemplating  the- 
grandeur  and  the  freshness  of  our  nature. 

For  us,  as  a people,  we  look  over  the  mountains,  and  connect  our 
! affections  with  the  parent  country  beyond,  by  the  strong  ties  of  natal 
attachment ; for  there,  to  the  passing  generation  at  least,  was  the  place 
of  their  birth.  There  still  live  our  fathers  and  our  brethren.  There  are 
the  graves  of  our  ancestors;  and  there  are  all  the  delightful  and  never 
1 forgotten  remembrances  of  our  infancy  and  our  boyhood.  We  have 
hitherto  been  connected  to  that  country,  by  looking  to  it  exclusively  for 
! fashions,  models  and  literature.  The  connexion  will  remain,  not  as  we 
I hope,  a slavish  one;  for  duty,  interest  and  self-respect  imperiously  call 
upon  us  to  set  up  for  ourselves,  in  these  respects,  as  fast  as  possible. 
But  as  younger  members  of  the  family,  thrust  into  the  woods,  to  give 
| place  to  those,  who  had  the  rights  of  primogeniture,  and  obliged  to  find 
our  subsistence  by  cutting  down  the  trees,  we  have  as  yet  had  but  little 
leisure  to  think  of  any  thing,  beyond  the  calls  of  necessity,  and  the  cal- 
culations of  immediate  interest  and  utility.  As  soon  as  we  have  the 
leisure  for  higher  purposes,  we  shall  be  unworthy  of  our  family  alliance, 
if  we  do  not  immediately  institute  a friendly  rivalry  in  these  respects, 
which  will  be  equally  honorable  and  useful  for  each  of  the  parties.  We 
know  our  rights,  and  we  are  able  to  maintain  them.  It  is  only  the  little 
minded  and  puny,  that  allow  themselves  to  indulge  in  a causeless  and 
fretful  jealousy.  There  must  be  a real,  palpable  and  continued  purpose 
to  undervalue  us,  and  curtail  our  rights,  and  arrest  our  advancement  and 
prosperity,  before  we  would  allow  ourselves  to  remember  our  great  chain 
of  mountains,  and  our  world  by  itself.  Our  patriotism  has  been  tam- 
pered with,  more  than  once,  even  in  our  infancy.  We  came  forth  with 
honor  from  every  trial.  Every  link  of  the  golden,  and,  we  hope,  perpet- 
ual chain  of  the  union,  will  be  grasped  as  firmly  by  the  citizens  of  the 
West,  as  of  the  Atlantic.  We  flatter  ourselves,  that  we  have  had  un- 
common chances  to  note  the  scale  of  the  western  thermometer,  in  this 
respect.  We  have  every  where  seen  and  felt  a spirit,  which  has  given  us 


NATIONAL  CHARACTER. 


135 


ilie  assurance  of  conviction,  that  the  popularity  of  that  demagogue  would 
be  blasted,  and  would  wither  forever,  who  should  for  a moment  manifest 
the  remotest  incipient  wish  to  touch  the  chain  of  this  union  with  an  un- 
hallowed hand.  The  interests  and  affections  of  the  western  people  hold 
to  that,  as  strongly,  and  as  proudly,  to  say  no  more,  as  those  of  the  East. 
From  time  to  time  demagogues  will  spring  up,  and  atrocious  and  unprin- 
cipalled  editors  will  be  found,  to  meditate  any  thing, — and  to  dare  to 
inculcate,  and  write,  and  publish  what  they  meditate.  But  the  strength 
and  virtue  of  the  community  will  never  bear  them  out. 

Wherever  attempts  may  be  made  to  disaffect,  alienate  and  sever 
one  section  of  this  great  union  from  the  rest,  may  God  avert  the 
omen!  that  attempt  will  not  commence  with  us.  They  may  reproach 
us  with  being  rough,  untrained,  and  backwoods  men.  But  as  a people 
we  are  strong  for  the  union,  and  the  whole  union.  Every  true  son  of 
the  West  will  join  in  the  holiest  aspirations, £ esto  perpetual  May  it  last 
as  long  as  the  sun  and  moon  shall  endure ! 

National  Character  of  the  Western  People.  We  shall  remark 
upon  the  character  of  the  French  part  of  our  population  in  describing 
Louisiana  and  Missouri,  where  the  greater  portion  of  that  people  is  found. 
We  shall  remark  upon  the  distinctive  character  of  Kentucky,  in  giving 
the  geography  of  that  state.  We  only  wish  to  catch  here,  if  possible,  the 
slight,  but  perceptible  peculiarities  of  national  character  which  our  pecu- 
liar circumstances  and  condition  have  imposed  upon  us. 

The  people  of  this  valley  are  as  thorough  a combination  and  mixture 
of  the  people  of  all  nations,  characters,  languages,  conditions  and  opin- 
ions, as  can  well  be  imagined.  Scarcely  a state  in  the  Union,  or  a 
nation  in  Europe,  but  what  has  furnished  us  immigrants.  Philosophers 
and  noblemen  have  visited  us  from  beyond  the  seas;  some  to  study  our 
natural  history,  or  to  contemplate  a new  people  rising  from  the  freshness 
of  nature,  over  the  fertile  ruins  of  a once  submerged  world ; or  deluded 
here  by  the  pastoral  dreams  of  Rousseau,  or  Chateaubriand;  or,  in  the 
sample  of  the  savages  to  study  man  in  a state  of  nature. 

The  much  greater  proportion  of  the  immigrants  from  Europe  are  of 
the  poorer  classes,  who  come  here  from  hunger,  poverty,  oppression,  and 
the  grinding  vassalage  of  crowded  and  miserable  tenants  of  an  aristocratic 
race,  born  to  the  inheritance  of  the  soil,  and  all  the  comforts  and  hopes  of 
present  existence.  They  find  themselves  here  with  the  joy  of  shipwrecked 
mariners,  cast  on  the  untenanted  woods,  and  instantly  become  cheered 
with  the  invigorating  hope  of  being  able  to  build  up  a family  and  a for- 
tune from  new  elements.  ‘The  north  has  given  to  us,  and  the  south 
has  not  hept  bach ’ The  puritan  and  the  planter,  the  German  and  the 


136 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Irishman,  the  Briton  and  the  Frenchman  each  with  their  peculiar  prejudi- 
ces and  local  attachments,  and  the  complicated  and  inwoven  tissue  of 
sentiments,  feelings  and  thoughts,  that  country,  and  kindred,  and  home, 
indelibly  combine  with  the  web  of  our  youthful  existence,  have  here  set 
down  beside  each  other.  The  merchant,  mechanic  and  farmer,  each  with 
their  peculiar  prejudices  and  jealouses,  have  found  themselves  placed  by 
necessity  in  the  same  society.  Mr.  Owen’s  grand  engine  of  circurn- 
stances  begins  to  play  upon  them.  Men  must  cleave  to  their  kind,  and 
must  be  dependent  upon  each  other.  Pride  and  jealousy  must  give  way 
to  the  natural  yearnings  of  the  human  heart  for  society.  They  begin  to 
rub  off  mutual  prejudices.  One  takes  a step,  and  then  the  other.  They 
meet  half  way,  and  embrace  j and  the  society  thus  newly  organized  and 
constituted,  is  more  liberal,  enlarged,  unprejudiced,  and  of  course  more 
affectionate  and  pleasant,  than  a society  of  people  of  unique  birth  and 
character,  who  bring  all  their  early  prejudices,  as  a common  stock,  to  be 
transmitted  as  an  inheritance  in  perpetuity. 

The  rough,  sturdy  and  simple  habits  of  the  backwoods  men,  living  in 
that  plenty,  which  depends  only  on  God  and  nature,  being  the  pre- 
ponderating cast  of  character  in  the  western  country,  have  laid  the 
stamina  of  independent  thought  and  feeling  deep  in  the  breasts  of  this 
people.  A man  accustomed  only  to  the  fascinating,  but  hollow  inter- 
course of  the  polished  circles  in  the  Atlantic  cities,  at  first  feels  a painful 
revulsion,  when  mingled  with  this  more  simple  race.  But  he  soon  be- 
comes accustomed  to  the  new  order  of  things ; and  if  he  have  a heart 
to  admire  simplicity,  truth  and  nature,  begins  to  be  pleased  with  it.  He 
respects  a people,  where  a poor,  but  honest  man  enters  the  most  aris- 
tocratic mansion  with  a feeling  of  ease  and  equality. 

It  may  readily  be  supposed,  that  among  such  an  infinite  variety  of 
people,  so  recently  thrown  together,  and  scarcely  yet  amalgamated  into  one 
people,  and  in  a country,  where  the  institutions  are  almost  as  fresh  and  sim- 
ple as  the  log  houses,  any  very  distinctive  national  character  could  hardly 
yet  be  predicated  of  the  inhabitants.  Every  attentive  observer,  however, 
discriminates  the  immigrants  from  the  different  nations,  and  even  from 
the  different  states  of  our  own  country.  The  people  of  Ohio  and  Indiana, 
for  example,  have  a character  somewhat  distinct  from  that  of  the  other 
western  states.  That  of  the  former,  especially,  is  moulded,  as  a very 
fair  sample  of  the  New  England  and  New  Jersey  patterns.  In  the  latter 
this  character  is  blended,  not  merged  with  the  manners,  opinions  and 
dialect  of  Kentucky.  Illinois  though  a free  state,  has  a clear  preponde- 
rance of  Kentucky  nationality.  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Missouri,  the 
upper  part  of  Alabama  and  Arkansas,  have  distinct  manners  in  which 
the  nationality  of  Kentucky  is  the  ground  color.  The  country  still  more 
south,  peopled  with  large  planters  of  cotton  and  sugar  cane,  with  nume- 


NATIONAL  CHARACTER. 


137 

rous  gangs  of  slaves,  have  the  peculiar  manners,  that  have  naturally  grown 
out  of  their  condition.  On  these  states  too,  especially  on  Louisiana,  we 
begin  to  discern  the  distinct  impress  and  influence  of  French  tempera- 
ment and  manners.  These  shades  of  difference. are  very  distinctly  visible 
to  persons,  who  have  been  long  and  intimately  acquainted  with  the  people 
of  the  different  regions,  where  they  are  marked. 

But  young  as  the  country  is,  variously  constituted  and  combined, 
as  are  the  elements  of  its  population,  there  is  already  marked,  and  it  is 
every  year  more  fully  developed,  a distinctive  character  of  the  western 
people.  A traveller  from  the  Atlantic  cities,  and  used  only  to  their  man- 
ners, descending  from  Pittsburgh,  or  Wheeling,  the  Ohio  and  the  Missis- 
sippi in  a steam  boat  of  the  larger  class,  will  find  on  board,  what  may  be 
considered  fair  samples,  of  all  classes  in  our  country,  except  the  farmers. 
To  become  conversant  with  the  younger  representatives  of  the  yeomanry, 
he  must  acquaint  himself  with  the  crews  of  the  descending  flat  boats. 
Sufficiently  copious  specimens  of  the  merchants  and  traders,  the  artizans 
the  large  planters,  the  speculators,  and  last,  though  not  least,  the  ladies, 
will  be  seen  on  board  the  different  steam  boats  descending  to  New 
Orleans,  or  on  their  return  voyage.  The  manners,  so  ascertained,  will 
strike  such  a traveller  as  we  have  supposed,  with  as  much  novelty, 
distinctness,  and  we  may  add,  if  he  be  not  bigoted  and  fastidious,  with  as 
much  pleasure,  saving  the  language,  as  though  he  had  visited  a country 
beyond  the  seas.  The  dialect  is  different.  The  enunciation  is  different. 
The  peculiar  and  proverbial  colloquy  is  different.  The  figures  and  illus- 
trations, used  in  common  parlance,  are  strikingly  different.  We  regret, 
that  fidelity  to  our  picture,  that  frankness  and  truth  compel  us  to  admit, 
that  the  frequency  of  profanity  and  strange  curses  is  ordinarily  an  un- 
pleasant element  in  the  conversation.  The  speaking  is  more  rapid. 
The  manner  has  more  appearance  of  earnestness  and  abruptness.  The 
common  comparisons  and  analogies  are  drawn  from  different  views  and 
relations  of  things.  Of  course  he  is  every  moment  reminded,  that  he  is 
a stranger  among  a people,  whose  modes  of  existence  and  ways  of  think- 
ing are  of  a widely  different  character  from  those,  in  the  midst  of  which 
he  was  reared. 

Although  we  have  so  often  been  described  to  this  traveller,  by  the 
repulsive  terms  backwoods  men,  gougers,  ruffians,  demi-savages,  a 
strange  mixture,  in  the  slang  phrase,  of  the  ‘ horse  and  the  alligator,’ 
we  confidently  hazard  the  opinion,  that  when  a little  accustomed  to  the 
manners  of  the  better  class  of  people  among  us,  he  will  institute  a com- 
parison between  our  people  and  his  own,  not  unfavorable  to  us.  There 
is  evidently  more  ease  and  frankness,  more  readiness  to  meet  a wish 
to  form  an  acquaintance,  sufficient  tact,  when  to  advance,  and  how  far^ 

18 


138 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


and  where  to  pause  in  this  effort;  less  holding  back,  less  distrust,  less 
feeling  as  if  the  address  of  a stranger  were  an  insult,  or  a degradation. 
There  is  inculcated  and  practised  on  board  the  steam  boats  a courtesy  to 
ladies,  which  is  delightful  in  its  proper  extent;  but  which  is  here,  some- 
times, apt  to  overstep  the  modesty  of  nature,  in  the  affectation  of  a 
chivalrous  deference,  which  would  be  considered  misplaced,  or  ridiculous 
on  the  Atlantic  shores.  A series  of  acquaintances  are  readily  and  natur- 
ally formed  between  fellow  passengers,  in  their  long  descents  to  New 
Orleans,  very  unlike  the  cold,  constrained,  and  almost  repelling  and 
hostile  deportment  of  fellow  passengers  in  the  short  stage  and  steam 
boat  passages  in  die  Atlantic  country.  They  are  very  different  from  the 
intimacies  of  fellow  passengers  in  crossing  the  Atlantic,  and  infinitely 
more  pleasant.  Putting  out  of  the  question  ennui,  sea  sickness,  and  the 
constant  rolling  of  the  vessel,  circumstances  so  unpropitious  to  the  culti- 
vation of  pleasant  intercourse,  custom  has  prescribed  a,  state  and  distance 
on  shipboard,  which  cause,  that  cabin  passengers  often  cross  the  ocean  to- 
gether, without  acquiring  any  thing  more  than  a speaking  intimacy  at 
the  end  of  the  voyage.  Not  so  on  these  passages,  where  the  boat  glides 
steadily  and  swiftly  along  the  verge  of  the  fragrant  willows.  The  green 
shores  are  always  seen  with  the  same  coup  d?  ceil,  that  takes  in  the  magni- 
ficent and  broad  wave  of  the  Mississippi.  Refreshments  come  in  from  the 
shore.  The  passengers  every  day  have  their  promenade.  The  claims  of 
prescription  on  the  score  of  wealth,  family,  office,  and  adventitious  dis- 
tinctions of  every  sort,  are  in  a measure  laid  aside,  or  pass  for  nothing. 
The  estimation,  the  worth  and  interest  of  a person  are  naturally  tried  on 
his  simple  merits,  his  powers  of  conversation,  his  innate  civility,  his  capa- 
cities to  amuse,  and  his  good  feelings. 

The  distinctive  character  of  the  western  people  may  be  traced  in  its 
minuter  shades  to  a thousand  causes,  among  which  are  not  only  their  new 
modes  of  existence,  the  solitary  lives  which  they,  who  are  not  inhabitants 
of  towns,  lead  in  remote  and  detached  habitations,  the  greater  part  of 
the  time,  and  the  readier  aptitude  and  zest,  which  they  will  naturally  have, 
when  thus  brought  together,  as  we  have  described  above,  to  enjoy  society; 
but  it  chiefly  results  from  the  unchangeable  physical  formation  of  the 
country.  For  instance,  it  has  been  remarked,  that  the  inhabitants  of  the 
western  country,  when  thrown  upon  the  blue  water,  are  sailors  almost  at 
once.  Their  long  inland  water  courses,  at  once  the  channels  of  convey- 
ance and  communication,  place  them  in  primary  nautical  schools,  train 
them  to  familiar  acquaintance  with  all  the  methods  of  managing  and 
propelling  water  crafts,  and  naturally  conduct  their  thoughts  from  their 
interior  forests,  and  their  rural  and  secluded  abodes,  down  to  the  ocean. 
The  skill  and  facility,  thus  acquired,  in  being  familiar  with  the  move- 


NATIONAL  CHARACTER. 


139 


men  Is  of  the  canoe,  the  periogue  and  skiff,  almost  from  the  days  of  infan- 
cy, give  them  the  same  dexterity  and  daring  on  the  ocean,  when  they  are 
at  length  wafted  down  to  its  tempestuous  bosom,  with  those  who  were 
reared  on  the  shores  of  that  element.  But  an  inhabitant  of  the  Atlantic 
shore  can  have  but  a faint  conception  of  the  sublime  emotions,  with  which 
a young  man  reared  in  the  silence  and  seclusion  of  the  western  forests, 
first  beholds  the  illimitable  extent  of  the  4 broad,  flat  sea.’  Every  intelli- 
gent and  gifted  son  of  the  West  will  be  a poet  for  the  first  few  hours 
of  his  sailing  on  the  ocean,  if  sea  sickness  do  not  banish  the  visitings 
of  the  muse. 

Their  forests  and  prairies  concur  with  their  inclinations  and  abundant 
leisure,  to  give  them  the  spirit-stirring  and  adventurous  habits  of  the 
chase.  Their  early  training  to  leave  the  endearments  and  the  maternal 
nursing  of  home,  for  an  absence  of  three  or  four  months,  on  voyages  of 
constant  exposure,  and  often  of  a length  of  more  than  five  hundred 
leagues,  will  naturally  tend  to  create  a character,  widely  unlike  the 
more  shrinking,  stationary  and  regular  habits  of  the  people  of  the  older 
country.  Multitudes,  perhaps  the  majority  of  those  in  the  middle  walks 
of  life  in  the  Atlantic  country,  seldom  extend  their  travels  beyond  their 
metropolis,  or  their  chief  mart.  Every  part  of  the  middle  and  northern 
states  is  traversed  in  ail  directions  by  fine  roads,  on  which  are  continually 
passing  great  numbers  of  stage  coaches.  In  the  West,  all  this  is  very  dif- 
ferent. There  are  roads,  indeed,  some  of  which  nature,  and  but  a veiy 
few,  art,  has  rendered  tolerably  passable.  But  the  passing  on  them,  even 
in  the  most  populous  districts  is  limited.  The  passages  are  seldom  more 
than  from  village  to  village,  settlement  to  settlement,  and  for  the  most 
part  subservient  to  arriving  at  the  real  roads,  the  great  turnpikes  of  the 
West,  her  long  rivers. 

These  rivers,  which  bound  or  intersect  every  state  in  the  West,  are  of 
a character  entirely  unlike  most  of  those,  which  flow  east  of  the  moun- 
tains. They  are  narrow,  deep,  and  to  a person  used  only  to  the  rivers  of 
the  East,  and  judging  them  by  comparison  and  by  their  width,  of  an  in- 
conceivable length  of  course.  Their  depth  of  water  resulting  from  the 
narrowness  of  their  channels,  and  the  level  and  alluvial  country,  through 
which  for  the  most  part  they  flow,  render  them  almost  universally  suscep- 
tible of  steam  boat,  or  at  least  boat  navigation.  The  instance  of  a young 
man  of  enterprise  and  standing,  as  a merchant,  trader,  planter,  or  even 
farmer,  who  has  not  made  at  least  one  trip  to  New  Orleans,  is  uncommon 
From  the  upper  and  even  middle  western  states,  before  the  invention  of 
steam  boats,  it  was  a voyage  of  long  duration,  and  we  may  add,  of  more 
peril,  than  a voyage  across  the  Atlantic.  These  rivers  are  still  descended 
as  before  that  invention,  in  boats  of  every  description . In  recently 


140 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


making  the  descent  from  Pittsburgh  to  Natchez,  in  an  uncommonly  low 
stage  of  the  waters,  we  noted  between  two  and  three  hundred  descending 
boats,  of  different  descriptions,  and  of  the  larger  class.  The  greater  por- 
tion, however,  were  flat  and  keel  boats.  Almost  all  the  crews,  that 
descend  on  these  boats,  return  on  steam  boats.  An  ascending  steam 
boat  carries  from  one  to  three  hundred  passengers ; and  the  average  trip 
from  New  Orleans  to  Louisville,  or  St.  Louis,  may  be  twelve  days, 
and  to  Cincinnati  thirteen.  Every  principal  farmer,  along  the  great 
water  courses,  builds  a flat  boat  and  sends  to  New  Orleans  the  produce  of 
his  farm  in  it.  Thus  a great  proportion  of  the  males  of  the  West,  of  a 
relative  standing  and  situation  in  life  to  be  most  likely  to  impress  their 
opinions  and  manners  upon  society,  have  made  this  passage  to  New  Or- 
leans. They  have  passetLthrough  different  states  and  regions,  have  been 
more  or  less  conversant  with  men  of  different  nations,  languages  and 
manners.  They  have  experienced  that  expansion  of  mind,  which  can  not 
fail  to  be  produced  by  traversing  long  distances  of  country,  and  viewing 
different  forms  of  nature  and  society.  Each  flat  or  keel  boat,  that  has 
descended  from  Pittsburgh  or  the  Missouri,  to  New  Orleans,  could  pub- 
lish a journal  of  no  inconsiderable  interest.  The  descent,  if  in  autumn, 
has  probably  occupied  fifty  days.  Until  the  boatmen  had  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  they  must  have  been  in  some  sense  amphibious  ani- 
mals continually  getting  into  the  water,  to  work  their  boat  off  shoals  and 
sandbars.  The  remainder  of  the  descent  was  amidst  all  the  dangers  of 
sawyers,  sandbars,  snags,  storms,  points  of  islands,  wreck  heaps,  difficulty 
and  danger  of  landing,  and  a great  many  anomalous  trials  and  dangers. 
The  whole  voyage  is  a scene  of  anxiety,  exposure  and  labor. 

It  follows,  that  the  habits  of  the  whole  people  of  the  West  must  as 
necessarily  receive  a peculiar  bent  and  impulse,  as  those  of  Marblehead, 
Cape  Cod,  and  Nantucket,  in  Massachusetts.  The  influence  of  these 
causes  is  already  visibly  impressed  upon  the  manners  and  thoughts  of 
the  people.  They  are  the  manners  of  people  accustomed,  on  going  on 
board  a steam  boat,  to  see  it  fitted  up  with  a glaring  of  splendor  and 
display,  perhaps  not  always  in  the  best  taste,  but  peculiarly  calculated  to 
captivate  and  dazzle  the  youthful  eye.  They  come  to  this  crowded 
scene  of  gaiety  and  splendor,  this  little  moving  city,  from  the  solitudes 
of  forests  and  prairies,  and  remote  dwellings.  They  find  themselves 
amidst  a mass  of  people,  male  and  female,  dressed  as  much  as  their 
means  will  allow.  There  are  cards,  and  wine,  and  novels,  and  young 
and  gay  people,  and  all  conceivable  artificial  excitements,  to  stir  up  the 
youthful  appetite  for  hilarity.  When  we  consider  what  temptations  these 
long  and  necessarily  intimate  associations  present  to  minds,  often  not 
much  regulated  by  religious  discipline,  training  or  example,  to  undue 


RELIGIOUS  CHARACTER. 


141 


gaiety,  gallantry,  intoxication  and  gambling,  it  is  as  surprising,  as  it  is 
honorable  to  the  character  of  the  West,  that  these  voyages  are  generally 
terminated  in  so  much  quietness,  morality  and  friendship. 

It  is  true,  the  gay,  the  young,  dashing  and  reckless  spirits  of  the 
community  are  thus  brought  in  contact,  to  act,  and  re-act  upon  each 
other  and  society.  But  there  are  always  some  graver  spirits  on  the 
steam  boats,  whose  presence  inspires  a certain  degree  of  awe  and  re- 
straint.— A keen  sense  of  the  necessity  of  strong  and  unvarying  regula- 
tions has  created  rigid  rules,  at  least  upon  the  better  of  them,  for  regulating 
the  temporary  intercourse  on  board ; and  on  the  whole,  there  is  an  air  of 
much  more  decorum  and  quietness,  than  could  be  inferred  from  knowing 
the  circumstances  of  these  temporary  associations. 

In  tracing  the  result  of  these  effects,  we  discover,  that  the  idea  of 
distance  is  very  different  in  the  head  of  a west  country  man  from  the  same 
idea,  as  entertained  by  the  inhabitant  of  Lancaster  in  Pennsylvania,  or 
Worcester  in  Massachusetts.  The  conversation  of  the  former  indicates, 
that  his  train  of  thinking  is  modelled  by  images  drawn  from  great  distances 
on  long  rivers,  from  extensive  trips  on  steam  boats,  long  absence  from 
home,  and  familiarity  with  exposure,  and  the  habit  of  looking  danger  and 
death  in  the  face.  Were  it  not  foreign  to  the  objects  of  this  article,  a 
thousand  amusing  examples  could  be  given.  The  vocabulary  of  figures 
drawn  from  boats  and  steam  boats,  the  phrases,  metaphors,  allusions,  that 
grow  out  of  the  peculiar  modes  of  life  of  this  people,  are  at  once  amusing, 
singular  and  copious.  The  stump  speech  of  a western  aspirant  for  the 
favors  of  the  people  has  a very  appropriate  garnish  from  this  vocabulary, 
and  compared  with  that  of  an  Atlantic  demagogue,  would  finely  illustrate 
his  peculiar  modes  of  thinking. 

The  point  most  to  our  purpose  in  these  remarks  is,  to  enquire  what 
influence  this,  and  other  great  operating  causes  have  upon  the  character, 
manners  and  morals  of  the  people?  It  must  be  admitted,  that  while 
these  frequent  trips  up  and  down  the  river,  and  more  than  all  to  New 
Orleans,  give  to  the  young  people,  and  those  who  impart  authority, 
impulse  and  tone  to  fashion  and  opinion,  an  air  of  society,  ease  and 
confidence;  the  young  are  apt  at  the  same  time  to  imbibe  from  the  con- 
tagion of  example,  habits  of  extravagance,  dissipation,  and  a rooted 
attachment  to  a wandering  life. 

Religious  Character  of  the  Western  People.  An  experiment 
is  making  in  this  vast  country,  which  must  ultimately  contain  so  many 
millions  of  people,  on  the  broadest  scale  on  which  it  has  ever  been  made, 
whether  religion,  as  a national  distinction  of  character,  can  be  maintained 


142 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


without  any  legislative  aid,  or  even  recognition  by  the  government.  If 
there  be  any  reference  to  religion,  in  any  of  the  constitutions  and  enact- 
ments, in  the  western  country,  beyond  the  simple,  occasional  granting  of 
a distinct  incorporation,  it  manifests  itself  in  a guarded  jealousy  of  the 
interference  of  any  religious  feeling,  or  influence  with  the  tenor  of 
legislation.  In  most  of  the  constitutions,  ministers  of  the  gospel  are 
expressly  interdicted  from  any  office  of  profit  or  trust,  in  the  gift  of 
the  people.  In  none  of  the  enactments  are  there  any  provisions  for  the 
support  of  any  form  of  worship  whatever.  But  if  it  be  inferred  from 
this,  that  religion  occupies  little  or  no  place  in  the  thoughts  of  the  people, 
that  there  are  no  forms  of  worship,  and  few  ministers  of  the  gospel,  no 
inference  can  be  wider  from  the  fact.  It  is  the  settled  political  maxim 
of  the  West,  that  religion  is  a concern  entirely  between  the  conscience 
and  God,  and  ought  to  be  left  solely  to  his  guardianship  and  care.  The 
people  are  generally  averse  to  binding  themselves  by  any  previous  legal 
obligation  to  a pastor  for  services  stipulated  to  be  performed.  It  is  the 
general  impression,  that  he  ought  to  derive  his  support  from  voluntary 
contributions,  after  services  performed,  and  uninfluenced  by  any  antece- 
dent contract  or  understanding.  There  are  many  towns  and  villages, 
where  other  modes  prevail ; but  such  is  the  general  standing  feeling  of 
the  West. 

Hence,  except  among  the  Catholics,  there  are  very  few  settled  pastors,, 
in  the  sense  in  which  that  phrase  is  understood  in  New  England  and  the 
Atlantic  cities.  Most  of  the  ministers,  that  are  in  some  sense  perma- 
nent, discharge  pastoral  duties  not  only  in  their  individual  societies,  but 
in  a wide  district  about  them.  The  range  of  duties,  the  emolument,  the 
estimation,  and  in  fact  the  whole  condition  of  a western  pastor,  are 
widely  different  from  an  Atlantic  minister.  In  each  case,  there  are 
peculiar  immunities,  pleasures  and  inconveniences,  growing  out  of  the 
differences  of  condition.  We  do  not  undertake  to  balance  the  advanta- 
ges in  favor  of  either.  It  has  been  an  hundred  times  represented,  and 
in  every  form  of  intelligence,  in  the  eastern  religious  publications,  that 
there  were  few  preachers  in  the  country,  and  that  whole  wide  districts 
had  no  religious  instruction,  or  forms  of  worship  whatever.  We  believe, 
from  a survey,  certainly  very  general,  and  we  trust,  faithful,  that  there 
are  as  many  preachers,  in  proportion  to  the  people,  as  there  are  in  the 
Atlantic  country.  A circulating  phalanx  of  Methodists,  Baptists  and 
Cumberland  Presbyterians,  of  Atlantic  missionaries,  and  of  young  eleves 
of  the  Catholic  theological  seminaries,  from  the  redundant  mass  of 
unoccupied  ministers,  both  in  the  Protestant  and  Catholic  countries,  * 
pervades  this  great  valley  with  its  numerous  detachments,  from  Pittsburgh, 


RELIGIOUS  CHARACTER. 


143 


the  mountains,  the  lakes,  and  the  Missouri,  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  They 
all  pursue  the  interests  of  their  several  denominations  in  their  own  way, 
and  generally  in  profound  peace. 

It  is  true,  a serious  mind  can  not  fail  to  observe  with  regret,  the  want 
of  the  permanent  and  regular  moral  influence  of  settled  religious  institu- 
tions. The  regular  4 church  going  bell,’  to  our  ear,  such  a delightful 
peal  on  the  sabbath,  is  not  often  heard  in  the  western  villages  with  the 
recurrence  of  that  day ; and  there  is  something  of  tranquil  sobriety,  of 
elevated  and  just  notions  of  morals,  the  influence  of  which  is  so  imme- 
| diately  perceived  in  a country,  where  regular  worship  prevails,  that  in  the 
more  Unsettled  districts  of  this  country,  is  felt  as  a painful  privation,  But 
if  we  except  Arkansas  and  Louisiana,  there  is  every  where  else  an  abund- 
ance of  some  kind  of  preaching.  The  village  papers  on  all  sides  contain 
printed  notices,  and  written  ones  are  affixed  to  the  public  places,  notify- 
ing what  are  called  ‘ meetings.’  A traveller  in  a clerical  dress  does  not 
fail  to  be  asked,  at  the  public  houses,  where  he  stops,  if  he  is  a preacher, 
j and  if  he  wishes  to  notify  a meeting. 

There  are  stationary  preachers  in  the  towns,  particularly  in  Ohio.  But 
in  the  rural  congregations  through  the  western  country  beyond  Ohio, 

I it  is  seldom  that  a minister  is  stationary  for  more  than  two  months.  A 

ministry  of  a year  in  one  place  may  be  considered  beyond  the  common 
duration.  Nine  tenths  of  the  religious  instruction  of  the  country  is 
ji  given  by  people,  who  itinerate,  and  who  are,  with  very  few  exceptions, 

notwithstanding  all  that  has  been  said  to  the  contrary,  men  of  great  zeal 
and  sanctity.  These  earnest  men,  who  have  little  to  expect  from  pecu- 
niary support,  and  less  from  the  prescribed  reverence  and  influence,  which 
can  only  appertain  to  a stated  ministry,  find,  at  once,  that  every  thing 
depends  upon  the  cultivation  of  popular  talents.  Zeal  for  Ihe  great  cause, 
mixed,  perhaps,  imperceptibly,  with  a spice  of  earthly  ambition,  and  the 
latent  emulation  and  pride  of  our  natures,  and  other  motives,  which 
uuconsciously  influence,  more  or  less,  the  most  sincere  and  the  most 
disinterested,  the  desire  of  distinction  among  their  cotemporaries  and 
their  brethren,  and  a reaching  struggle  for  the  fascination  of  popularity, 
goad  them  on  to  study  all  the  means  and  arts  of  winning  the  people. 
Travelling  from  month  to  month  through  dark  forests,  with  such  ample 
time  and  range  for  deep  thought,  as  they  amble  slowly  on  horseback  along 
their  peregrinations,  the  men  naturally  acquire  a pensive  and  romantic 
turn  of  thought  and  expression,  as  we  think,  favorable  to  eloquence.  Hence 
H the  preaching  is  of  a highly  popular  cast,  and  its  first  aim  is  to  excite  the 
feelings. — Hence,  too,  excitements,  or  in  religious  parlance  ‘awakenings,’ 
are  common  in  all  this  region  Living  remote,  and  consigned  the  greater 
part  of  the  time,  to  the  musing  loneliness  of  their  condition  in  the  square 


144 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


clearing  of  the  forest,  or  the  prairie;  when  they  congregate  on  these 
exciting  occasions,  society  itself  is  a novelty,  and  an  excitement.  The 
people  are  naturally  more  sensitive  and  enthusiastic,  than  in  the  older 
countries.  A man  of  rude,  boisterous,  but  native  eloquence,  rises  among 
these  children  of  the  forest  and  simple  nature,  with  his  voice  pitched 
upon  the  tones,  and  his  utterance  thrilling  with  that  awful  theme,  to  which 
each  string  of  the  human  heart  every  where  responds ; and  while  the 
woods  echo  his  vehement  declamations,  his  audience  is  alternately  dis- 
solved in  tears,  awed  to  profound  feeling,  or  falling  in  spasms.  This 
country  opens  a boundless  theatre  for  strong,  earnest  and  unlettered 
eloquence;  and  the  preacher  seldom  has  extensive  influence,  or  usefulness 
who  does  not  possess  some  touch  of  this  powen 

These  excitements  have  been  prevalent,  within  the  two  or  three  past 
years,  in  the  middle  western  states;  chiefly  in  Tennessee,  and  for  the 
most  part  under  the  ministry  of  the  Cumberland  Presbyterians.  Some- 
times it  influences  a settlement,  or  a town;  and  sometimes,  as  there, 
spreads  over  a state.  The  people  assemble,  as  to  an  imposing  spectacle. 
They  pour  from  their  woods,  to  hear  the  new  preacher,  whose  fame  has 
travelled  before  him.  The  preaching  has  a scenic  effect.  It  is  a theme 
of  earnest  discussion,  reviewing,  comparison,  and  intense  interest. 

None,  but  one  who  has  seen,  can  imagine  the  interest,  excited  in  a 
district  of  country,  perhaps;  fifty  miles  in  extent,  by  the  awaited  approach 
of  the  time  for  a camp  meeting;  and  none,  but  one  who  has  seen,  can 
imagine  how  profoundly  the  preachers  have  understood  what  produces 
effect,  and  how  well  they  have  practised  upon  it.  Suppose  the  scene  to 
be,  where  the  most  extensive  excitements  and  the  most  frequent  camp 
meetings  have  been,  during  the  two  past  years,  in  one  of  the  beautiful 
and  fertile  valleys  among  the  mountains  of  Tennessee.  The  notice  has 
been  circulated  two  or  three  months.  On  the  appointed  day,  coaches, 
chaises,  wagons,  carts,  people  on  horseback,  and  multitudes  travelling 
from  a distance  on  foot,  wagons  with  provisions,  mattresses,  tents,  and 
arrangements  for  the  stay  of  a week,  are  seen  hurrying  from  every  point 
towards  the  central  spot.  It  is  in  the  midst  of  a grove  of  those  beautiful 
and  lofty  trees,  natural  to  the  vallies  of  Tennessee,  in  its  deepest  verdure, 
and  beside  a spring  branch,  for  the  requisite  supply  of  water. 

The  ambitious  and  wealthy  are  there,  because  in  this  region  opinion 
is  all-powerful;  and  they  are  there,  either  to  extend  their  influence,  or 
that  their  absence  may  not  be  noted,  to  diminish  it.  Aspirants  for  office 
are  there,  to  electioneer,  and  gain  popularity.  Vast  numbers  are  there 
from  simple  curiosity,  and  merely  to  enjoy  a spectacle.  The  young  and 
the  beautiful  are  there,  with  mixed  motives,  which  it  were  best  not 
sev  erely  to  scrutinize.  Children  are  there,  their  young  eyes  glistening 


RELIGIOUS  CHARACTER. 


145 


with  the  intense  interest  of  eager  curiosity.  The  middle  aged  fathers 
and  mothers  of  families  are  there,  with  the  sober  views  of  people,  whose 
plans  in  life  are  fixed,  and  waiting  calmly  to  hear.  Men  and  women  of 
hoary  hairs  are  there,  with  such  thoughts,  it  may  be  hoped,  as  their  years 
invite.— Such  is  the  congregation  consisting  of  thousands. 

A host  of  preachers  of  different  denominations  are  there,  some  in  the 
earnest  vigor  and  aspiring  desires  of  youth,  waiting  an  opportunity  for 
display ; others,  who  have  proclaimed  the  gospel,  as  pilgrims  of  the  cross, 
from  the  remotest  north  of  our  vast  country  to  the  shores  of  the  Mexican 
gulf,  and  ready  to  utter  the  words,  the  feelings  and  the  experience,  which 
they  have  treasured  up  in  a travelling  ministry  of  fifty  years,  and  whose 
accents,  trembling  with  age,  still  more  impressively  than  their  words,  an- 
nounce, that  they  will  soon  travel,  and  preach  no  more  on  the  earth,  are 
there.  Such  are  the  preachers. 

The  line  of  tents  is  pitched ; and  the  religious  city  grows  up  in  a few 
hours  under  the  trees,  beside  the  stream.  Lamps  are  hung  in  lines  among 
the  branches ; and  the  effect  of  their  glare  upon  the  surrounding  forest  is, 
as  of  magic.  The  scenery  of  the  most  brilliant  theatre  in  the  world  is  a 
painting  only  for  children,  compared  with  it.  Meantime  the  multitudes, 
with  the  highest  excitement  of  social  feeling  added  to  the  general  enthu- 
siasm of  expectation,  pass  from  tent  to  tent,  and  interchange  apostolic 
greetings  and  embraces,  and  talk  of  the  coming  solemnities.  Their 
coffee  and  tea  are  prepared,  and  their  supper  is  finished.  By  this  time 
the  moon,  for  they  take  thought,  to  appoint  the  meeting  at  the  proper 
time  of  the  moon,  begins  to  show  its  disk  above  the  dark  summits  of  the 
mountains ; and  a few  stars  are  seen  glimmering  through  the  intervals  of 
the  branches.  The  whole  constitutes  a temple  worthy  of  the  grandeur 
of  God.  An  old  man,  in  a dress  of  the  quaintest  simplicity,  ascends 
a platform,  wipes  the  dust  from  his  spectacles,  and  in  a voice  of  suppressed 
emotion,  gives  out  the  hymn,  of  which  the  whole  assembled  multitude 
can  recite  the  words,— and  an  air,  in  which  every  voice  can  join.  We 
should  deem  poorly  of  the  heart,  that  would  not  thrill,  as  the  song  is  heard, 
like  the  ‘sound  of  many  waters,’  echoing  among  the  hills  and  mountains. 
Such  are  the  scenes,  the  associations,  and  such  the  influence  of  external 
things  upon  a nature  so  ‘ fearfully  and  wonderfully’  constituted,  as  ours, 
that  little  effort  is  necessary  on  such  a theme  as  religion,  urged  at  such 
a place,  under  such  circumstances,  to  fill  the  heart  and  the  eyes.  The 
hoary  orator  talks  of  God,  of  eternity,  a judgment  to  come,  and  all  that 
is  impressive  wbeyond.  He  speaks  of  his  ‘experiences,’  his  toils  and 
travels,  his  persecutions  and  welcomes,  and  how  many  he  has  seen  in 
hope,  in  peace  and  triumph, gathered  to  their  fathers;  and  when  he  speaks 


19 


146 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


of  the  short  space  that  remains  to  him,  his  only  regret  is,  that  he  can  no 
more  proclaim,  in  the  silence  of  death,  the  mercies  of  his  crucified 
Redeemer. 

There  is  no  need  of  the  studied  trick  of  oratory,  to  produce  in  such 
a place  the  deepest  movements  of  the  heart.  No  wonder,  as  the  speaker 
pauses  to  dash  the  gathering  moisture  from  his  own  eye,  that  his  audi- 
ence are  dissolved  in  tears,  or  uttering  the  exclamations  of  penitence. 
Nor  is  it  cause  for  admiration,  that  many,  who  poised  themselves  on  an 
estimation  of  higher  intellect,  and  a nobler  insensibility,  than  the  crowd, 
catch  the  infectious  feeling,  and  become  women  and  children  in  their 
turn ; and  though  they  4 came  to  mock,  remain  to  pray.’ 

Notwithstanding  all,  that  has  been  said  in  derision  of  these  spectacles, 
so  common  in  this  region,  it  can  not  be  denied,  that  the  influence  on  the 
whole,  is  salutary,  and  the  general  bearing  upon  the  great  interests  of 
the  community,  good.  It  will  be  long,  before  a regular  ministry  can  be 
generally  supported,  if  ever.  In  place  of  that,  nothing  tends  so  strongly 
to  supply  the  want  of  the  influence,  resulting  from  the  constant  duties 
of  a stated  ministry,  as  the  recurrence  of  these  explosions  of  feeling, 
which  shake  the  moral  world,  and  purify  its  atmosphere,  until  the  accu- 
mulating seeds  of  moral  disease  require  a similar  lustration  again. 

Whatever  be  the  cause,  the  effect  is  certain,  that  through  the  state  of 
Tennessee,  parts  of  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Kentucky,  Ohio,  Indiana  and 
Illinois,  these  excitements  have  produced  a palpable  change  in  the  habits 
and  manners  of  the  people.  The  gambling  and  drinking  shops  are 
deserted:  and  the  people,  that  used  to  congregate  there,  now  go  to  the 
religious  meetings.  The  Methodists,  too,  have  done  great  and  incalcu- 
lable good.  They  are  generally  of  a character,  education  and  training, 
that  prepare  them  for  the  elements,  upon  which  they  are  destined  to 
operate.  They  speak  the  dialect,  understand  the  interests,  and  enter 
into  the  feelings  of  their  audience.  They  exert  a prodigious  and  incal- 
culable bearing  upon  the  rough  backwoods  men;  and  do  good,  where 
more  polished,  and  trained  ministers  would  preach  without  effect.  No 
mind,  but  His,  for  whom  they  labor,  can  know,  how  many  profane  they 
have  reclaimed,  drunkards  they  have  reformed,  and  wanderers  they  have 
brought  home  to  God. 

The  Baptists,  too,  and  the  missionaries  from  the  Atlantic  country, 
seeing  such  a wide  and  open  field  before  them,  labor  with  great  diligence 
and  earnestness,  operating  generally  upon  another  class  of  the  commu- 
nity. The  Catholics  are  both  numerous  and  zealous;  and,  perfectly 
united  in  spirit  and  interest,  form  a compact  phalanx,  and  produce  the 
effect  of  moral  union.  From  their  united  exertions  it  happens,  that  over 


PURSUITS  OF  THE  PEOPLE* 


14? 


all  this  country,  among  all  the  occasions  for  public  gatherings,  which, 
from  their  rareness  excite  the  greater  interest,  religious  meetings  are  by 
far  the  most  numerous. 

That  part  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia  west  of  the  mountains  has  a 
predominance  of  Presbyterians.  The  great  state  of  Ohio  is  made  up  of 
such  mixed  elements,  that  it  would  be  difficult  to  say,  which  of  all  the  sects 
prevails.  As  a general  characteristic,  the  people  are  strongly  inclined 
to  attend  on  some  kind  of  religious  worship.-— Presbyterians  and  Baptists 
strive  for  the  ascendency  in  Kentucky.  Methodists  and  Cumberland 
Presbyterians  are  numerous.  They,  probably,  have  the  ascendency  in 
Tennessee,  and  they  are  making  great  efforts  in  Alabama  and  Mississippi . 
Methodists  are  the  prevailing  denomination  in  Indiana,  Illinois,  Missouri, 
Arkansas,  Mississippi  and  Alabama.  Catholics  have  an  undisputed 
ascendency  in  Louisiana  and  Florida.  They  have  many  societies  in 
Missouri  and  Illinois.  They  are  prevalent  in  a portion  of  Kentucky, 
and  have  a respectable  seminary  at  Bairdstown.  Methodists,  Presbyte- 
rians and  Catholics  are  the  prevailing  denominations  of  the  West.* 

Pursuits  of  the  People.  Manufacturers,  &c.  Western  Pennsyl- 
vania is  a manufacturing  region,  and  along  with  Ohio,  is  the  New  England 
of  the  West.  The  people  bring  down  the  Alleghany,  clear  and  fine  pine 
plank;  delivering  them  along  the  whole  course  of  the  Ohio,  and  sending 
great  quantities  even  to  New  Orleans.  These  pines,  of  which  the  houses  in 
New  Orleans  are  finished,  waved  over  the  streams  of  New  York,  and  are 
despatched  in  rafts  and  flat  boats,  after  being  sawed  into  plank,  from 
Oleanne  point.  From  the  Monongahela  is  sent  the  rye  whiskey,  which 
is  so  famous  in  the  lower  country.  On  the  Youghiogheny  and  Mononga- 
hela, at  Connelsville  on  the  former,  and  Brownsville  on  the  latter,  are 
important  manufactories,  chiefly  of  iron.  Pittsburgh  has  been  called  the 
Birmingham  of  America;  though  that  honor,  is  keenly  disputed  by  her 
rival  Cincinnati.  There  are  numerous  manufacturing  towns  in  Ohio,  of 
which,  after  Cincinnati,  Zanesville  and  Steubenville  are  the  chief.  All 
this  region,  in  numerous  streams,  calculated  for  water  power,  in  a salu- 
brious climate,  in  abundance  of  pit  coal,  in  its  position,  and  the  genius 
and  habits  of  its  inhabitants,  is  naturally  adapted  to  become  a manufac- 
turing country.  Materials  for  articles  of  prime  necessity,  as  salt,  iron 
and  glass,  exist  in  the  most  ample  abundance.  Pittsburgh,  blackened 
with  the  smoke  of  pit  coal,  and  one  quarter  of  Cincinnati,  throwing  up 
columns  of  smoke  from  the  steam  factories,  may  be  considered  as  great 


*For  table  of  religious  sects*  see  Appendix,  table  No.  VI. 


148 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


manufacturing  establishments.  If  we  except  the  cordage,  bale  rope, 
bagging,  and  other  articles  of  hempen  fabric,  manufactured  in  Kentucky, 
the  chief  part  of  the  western  manufactures  originates  in  west  Pennsyl- 
vania and  Ohio.  There  are  some  indications,  that  Indiana  will  possess 
a manufacturing  spirit;  and  there  are  separate,  incipient  establishments 
of  this  kind,  more  or  less  considerable,  in  every  state,  but  Louisiana  and 
Mississippi. 

These  manufactures  consist  of  a great  variety  of  articles  of  prime 
necessity,  use  and  ornament.  The  principal  are  of  iron,  as  castings  of 
all  sorts;  and  almost  every  article  of  ironmongery,  that  is  manufactured 
in  the  world.  This  manufacture  is  carried  on  to  an  immense  extent. 

Glass  is  manufactured  in  various  places,  at  present,  it  is  supposed, 
nearly  to  an  amount,  to  supply  the  country.  Manufactures  in  woollen 
and  cotton,  in  pottery,  in  laboratories,  as  white  and  red  lead,  Prussian 
blue,  and  the  colors  generally,  the  acids  and  other  chemical  preparations, 
in  steam  power  machinery,  saddlery,  wheel  irons,  wire  drawing,  buttons, 
knitting  needles,  silver  plating,  Morrocco  leather,  articles  in  brass  and 
copper,  hats,  boots  and  shoes,  breweries,  tin,  and  other  metals,  cabinet 
work ; in  short,  manufactures  subservient  to  the  arts,  and  to  domestic 
subsistence,  are  carried  on  at  various  places  in  the  western  country  with 
great  spirit.  Ohio  has  imbibed  from  her  prototype,  New  England,  manu- 
facturing propensities;  and  we  have  heard  it  earnestly  contested,  that 
her  capabilities  for  being  a great  manufacturing  country,  were  even 
superior  to  those  of  New  England.  It  is  affirmed,  that,  taking  the  whole 
year  into  consideration,  her  climate  is  more  favorable  to  health;  and 
there  can  be  no  question,  that  in  her  abundance  of  fuel,  pit  coal,  and  iron 
and  the  greater  profusion  of  the  raw  material  of  manufactures  in  general, 
she  has  greatly  the  advantage. 

In  the  state  of  Kentucky,  hemp  is  raised  to  a considerable  extent;  and 
in  its  different  manufactures  constitutes  a material  article  in  her  exports. 
Salt  is  manufactured  through  all  the  western  country  in  sufficient  abun- 
dance for  home  consumption.  Shoes,  hats  and  clothing,  to  a considerable 
extent,  are  yet  imported  from  abroad  into  some  of  the  western  states. 
But  as  we  have  remarked,  the  far  greater  part  of  the  people  are  farmers. 
In  west  Pensylvania  and  Virginia,  in  Ohio  and  Kentucky,  in  Indiana,  Illi- 
nois, Missouri,  and  a part  of  Tennessee,  the  same  articles  are  grown,  and 
sent  abroad,  to  wit,  flour,  corn  and  the  small  grains;  pulse,  potatoes,  and 
the  other  vegetables ; fruit,  as  apples,  fresh  and  dried,  dried  peaches,  and 
other  preserved  fruits;  beef,  pork, cheese,  butter,  poultry,  venison  hams, 
live  cattle,  hogs  and  horses.  The  greater  part  of  the  flour  is  sent  from 
Ohio  and  Kentucky;  though  Indiana,  Illinois  and  Missouri  are  following 
the  example  with  great  vigor.  Wheat  is  grown  with  more  ease  in  Illinois 


PURSUITS  OF  THE  PEOPLE- 


149 


and  Missouri  than  in  the  other  states.  Ohio  has  gone  considerably  into 
the  culture  of  yellow  tobacco. — Tobacco  is  one  of  the  staples  of  Kentucky 
export.  Cattle,  hogs  and  horses  are  sent  to  New  Orleans  extensively 
from  Illinois  and  Missouri,  as  are,  also,  lead  and  peltries.  In  Arkansas, 
part  of  Tennessee,  all  Alabama  and  Mississippi,  cotton  is  the  chief  object 
of  cultivation.  Grains,  and  other  materials  of  nutriment,  are  only  raised 
in  subservience  to  this  culture.  The  cultivation  of  Louisiana,  and  a 
part  of  Florida,  is  divided  between  cotton  and  sugar. 

The  cultivation  in  all  the  states,  except  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois  is 
chiefly  performed  by  slaves,  of  whose  character,  habits  and  condition  we 
have  yet  to  treat.  The  farms  in  Ohio  and  Indiana  are  generally  of 
moderate  size,  and  the  cultivators  do  not  materially  differ  in  their  habits 
from  those  of  the  northern  Atlantic  states.  In  Kentucky,  Illinois 
and  Missouri,  they  are  more  addicted  to  what  is  called  4 cropping,’ 
that  is,  devoting  the  chief  attention  to  the  cultivation  of  one  article. 
In  all  the  states,  save  those,  that  cultivate  cotton  and  sugar,  they 
make,  on  an  average,  sixty  bushels  of  maize  to  the  acre : and  the  cultiva- 
tion consists  in  ploughing  two  or  three  times  between  the  rows,  during 
the  growing  of  the  crop.  From  eighty  to  an  hundred  bushels  are  not 
an  uncommon  crop,  and  manuring  is  scarcely  yet  thought  of  in  cul- 
tivation. The  good  lands  in  Illinois  and  in  Missouri  yield  from  twenty 
five  to  thirty  bushels  of  wheat  to  the  acre.  The  cultivation  is  on  prairie, 
or  bottom  land ; and  as  the  soil  is  friable,  loose  and  perfectly  free  from 
stones,  and  on  the  prairies  from  every  other  obstruction,  farming  is  not 
laborious  and  difficult,  as  in  hard  rough,  and  rocky  grounds.  The  ease 
and  abundance,  with  which  all  the  articles  of  the  country  are  produced,  is 
one  of  the  chief  objects  of  complaint.  The  necessary  result  is,  that  they 
are  raised  in  such  abundance,  as  to  glut  the  market  at  New  Orleans,  and 
used  often  not  to  bring  enough  to  pay  the  expenses  of  transportation. 
All  this  has  been  recently  so  changed  by  the  effects  of  our  canals,  the 
rapid  influx  of  immigration,  and  the  levelling  tendency  of  the  increas- 
ed facilities  of  transport,  that  the  price  of  western  produce  is  fast  approx- 
imating the  Atlantic  value.  A natural  result  of  this  order  of  things  will 
be,  that  the  west  will  soon  export  four  times  its  former  amount  of  flour, 
and  other  produce. 

From  the  cheapness  of  corn,  and  the  abundance  of  ‘mast,’  as  it  is 
called,  in  the  woods,  hogs,  too,  are  easily  multiplied,  far  beyond  the 
wants  of  the  people.  Pork  is  becoming  one  of  the  great  staples  of  all 
the  western  states,  except  those,  that  grow  cotton  and  sugar.  Cincinnati 
is  decidedly  the  largest  pork  market  in  the  United  States.  Prodigious 
numbers  of  swine  are  slaughtered  there,  and  the  business  of  barrelling  it, 
and  coring  bacon  for  exportation  is  one  of  the  most  important  sources  of 


150 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY » 


its  trade.  Cattle,  and  swine  when  carried  to  New  Orleans  command  a 
fail*  price.  Horses  are  an  important  and  increasing  article  of  export. 
Orchards  north  of  36°  prosper,  perhaps,  better  than  in  any  other  country ; 
and  apples  and  cider  are  already  important  articles  of  exportation,  and 
will  soon  be  more  so ; for  no  where  do  apple  trees  grow  with  more  ra- 
pidity and  beauty,  and  sooner  and  more  amply  load  themselves  with  fruit. 
Venison  and  deer  skins,  honey  and  beeswax  are  commonly  received  in 
the  country  stores,  in  pay  for  goods.  From  Missouri,  peltries,  furs  and 
lead,  from  the  Illinois  mines,  and  from  those  in  the  Missouri  mine  region,, 
are  the  chief  articles  of  present  export.  The  amount  of  export  of  these 
articles,  together  with  the  cotton  and  sugar  of  the  southern  country,  and 
the  prodigious  quantities  of  whiskey  from  all  the  western  states  will  be 
seen  by  recurrence  to  the  table  of  exports.* 

Modes  of  conveyance  to  market.  Water  carriage,  &c.  From  the 
northern  and  eastern  parts  of  this  valley,  no  inconsiderable  amount  of  the 
produce  and  articles  of  the  West  finds  its  way  to  the  eastern  country  by 
the  canals  and  on  the  lakes.  Cleveland  and  Sandusky,  on  lake  Erie,  are 
deriving  importance  from  being  places  of  shipment  from  Ohio  over  the 
lakes.  The  northern  garrisons  are  beginning  to  be  supplied  with  provi- 
sions from  Illinois  and  Missouri,  by  the  way  of  Chicago  and  lake  Michigan. 
Horses,  cattle  and  swine  to  a large  amount,  are  driven  over  the  moun- 
tains from  Ohio  and  Kentucky.  So  early  as  1813-14,  in  one  year,  four 
thousand  and  fifty  five  transport  wagons  were  numbered  from  Philadel- 
phia to  Pittsburgh.  Many  of  them  found  a return  load  of  articles  of  the 
West.  Much  of  this  transport,  which  has  vastly  increased  since  that 
time,  now  takes  place  on  the  great  Pennsylvania  canal,  which  wants  the 
completion  of  an  interval  of  no  great  distance  among  the  mountains,  to 
be  an  entire  water  communication  between  Philadelphia  and  Pittsburgh^ 
and  the  longest  continued  canal  in  the  United  States.  The  Ohio  and 
Erie  canal  is  nearly  complete,  and  greatly  adds  to  the  facility  of 
transport  from  the  west  to  the  east.  Kail  roads  will  concur  to  the  same 
result;  and  when  the  contemplated  rail-roads  and  canals  shall  be  in 
operation,  the  Western  country  will  be  placed  more  nearly  on  an  equality 
with  the  sea-board,  in  regard  to  a market. 

At  present,  however,  the  greater  part  of  the  commercial  intercourse  of 
the  country  is  yet  with  New  Orleans,  by  the  rivers  and  the  Mississippi,  in 
boats.  These  are  so  various  in  their  kinds,  and  so  curious  in  their  con- 
struction, that  it  would  be  difficult  to  reduce  them  to  specific  classes 
and  divisions.  No  form  of  water  craft  so  whimsical,  no  shape  so  out- 


*8ee  Appendix,  table  No.  VII. 


PURSUITS  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 


151 


landish,  can  well  be  imagined,  but  what,  on  descending  from  Pittsburgh 
to  New  Orleans,  it  may  some  where  be  seen  lying  to  the  shore,  or  floating 
•on  the  river.  The  New  York  canal  is  generating  monstrous  conceptions 
of  this  sort;  and  there  will  soon  be  a rivalry  between  the  East  and  the 
West,  which  can  create  the  most  ingenious  floating  river  monsters  of 
passage  and  transport. 

The  barge  is  of  the  size  of  an  Atlantic  Schooner,  with  a raised  and  out- 
landish looking  deck.  It  had  sails,  masts  and  rigging  not  unlike  a sea 
vessel,  and  carried  from  fifty  to  an  hundred  tons.  It  required  twenty-five 
or  thirty  hands  to  work  it  up  stream.  On  the  lower  courses  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, when  the  wind  did  not  serve,  and  the  waters  were  high,  it  was 
worked  up  stream  by  the  operation,  that  is  called  < warping,’ — a most 
laborious,  slow  and  difficult  mode  of  ascent,  and  in  which  six  or  eight 
miles  a day  was  good  progress.  It  consisted  in  having  two  yawls,  the 
one  in  advance  of  the  other,  carrying  out  a warp  of  some  hundred  yards 
in  length,  making  it  fast  to  a tree,  and  then  drawing  the  barge  up  to  that 
tree  by  the  warp.  When  that  warp  was  coiled,  the  yawl  in  advance  had 
another  laid,  and  so  on  alternately.  From  ninety  to  an  hundred  days 
Was  a tolerable  passage  from  New  Orleans  to  Cincinnati,  In  this  way 
the  intercourse  between  Pittsburgh,  Cincinnati,  Louisville,  Nashville, 
and  St.  Louis,  for  the  more  important  purposes  of  commerce,  was  kept 
up  with  New  Orleans.  One  need  only  read  the  journal  of  a barge  on 
such  an  ascent,  to  comprehend  the  full  value  of  the  invention  of  steam 
boats.  They  are  now  gone  into  disuse,  and  we  do  not  remember  to  have 
seen  a barge  for  some  years,  except  on  the  waters  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Ohio. 

The  keel  boat  is  of  a long,  slender  and  elegant  form,  and  generally 
carries  from  fifteen  to  thirty  tons.  Its  advantage  is  in  its  small  draft  of 
water,  and  the  lightness  of  its  construction.  It  is  still  used  on  the  Ohio 
and  upper  Mississippi  in  low  stages  of  water,  and  on  all  the  boatable 
streams  where  steam  boats  do  not  yet  run.  Its  propelling  power  is  by 
oars,  sails,  setting  poles,  the  cordelle,  and  when  the  waters  are  high,  and 
the  boat  runs  on  the  margin  of  the  bushes,  * bush-whacking,’  or  pulling  up 
by  the  bushes.  Before  the  invention  of  steam  boats,  these  boats  were 
used  in  the  proportion  of  six  to  one  at  the  present  time. 

The  ferry  flat  is  a scow-boat,  and  when  used  as  a boat  of  descent  for 
families,  has  a roof,  or  covering.  These  are  sometimes,  in  the  vernacu- 
lar phrase,  called  4 sleds.’  The  Alleghany  or  Mackinaw  skiff,  is  a covered 
skiff,  carrying  from  six  to  ten  tons ; and  is  much  used  on  the  Alleghany, 
the  Illinois,  and  the  rivers  of  the  upper  Mississippi  and  Missouri.  Periogues 
are  sometimes  hollowed  from  one  very  large  tree,  or  from  the  trunks  of  two 
trees  united,  and  fitted  with  a plank  rim  They  carry  from  one  to  three 


152 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


tons.  There  are  common  skiffs,  canoes  and  ( dug-outs,’  for  the  conve- 
nience of  crossing  the  rivers;  and  a select  company  of  a few  travellers 
often  descend  in  them  to  New  Orleans.  Hunters  and  Indians,  and 
sometimes  passengers,  make  long  journeys  of  ascent  of  the  rivers  in 
them.  Besides  these,  there  are  anomalous  water  crafts,  that  can  hardly 
be  reduced  to  any  class,  used  as  boats  of  passage  or  descent.  We  have 
seen  flat  boats,  worked  by  a wheel,  which  was  driven  by  the  cattle,  that 
were  conveying  to  the  New  Orleans  market.  There  are  horse  boats  of 
various  constructions,  used  for  the  most  part  as  ferry  boats ; but  sometimes 
as  boats  of  ascent.  Two  keel  boats  are  connected  by  a platform.  A 
pen  holds  the  horses,  which  by  circular  movement  propel  wheels.  We 
saw  United  States’  troops  ascending  the  Missouri  by  boats,  propelled 
by  tread  wheels  ; and  we  have,  more  than  once,  seen  a boat  moved 
rapidly  up  stream  by  wheels,  after  the  steam  boat  construction,  propelled 
by  a man  turning  a crank. 

But  the  boats  of  passage  and  conveyance,  that  remain  after  the  invem 
tion  of  steam  boats,  and  are  still  important  to  those  objects,  are  keel 
boats  and  flats.  The  flat  boats  are  called,  in  the  vernacular  phrase, 
c Kentucky  flats,’  or  ‘ broad  horns.’  They  are  simply  an  oblong  ark, 
with  a roof  slightly  curved  from  the  centre  to  shed  rain.  They  are  gem 
erally  about  fifteen  feet  wide,  and  from  fifty  to  eighty,  and  sometimes  an 
hundred  feet  in  length.  The  timbers  of  the  bottom  are  massive  beams ; 
and  they  are  intended  to  be  of  great  strength ; and  to  carry  a burden  of 
from  two  to  four  hundred  barrels.  Great  numbers  of  cattle,  hogs  and 
horses  are  convened  to  market  in  them.  We  have  seen  family  boats  of 
this  description,  fitted  up  for  the  descent  of  families  to  the  lower  country, 
with  a stove,  comfortable  apartments,  beds,  and  arrangements  for  com- 
modious habitancy.  We  see  in  them  ladies,  servants,  cattle,  horses, 
sheep,  dogs  and  poultry,  all  floating  on  the  same  bottom ; and  on  the  roof 
the  looms,  ploughs,  spinning  wheels  and  domestic  implements  of  the 
family. 

Much  of  the  produce  of  the  upper  country,  even  after  the  invention 
of  steam  boats,  continues  to  descend  to  New  Orleans  in  Kentucky  flats. 
They  generally  carry  three  hands ; and  perhaps  a supernumerary  fourth 
hand,  a kind  of  supercargo.  This  boat,  in  the  form  of  a parallelogram, 
lying  flat  and  dead  in  the  water,  and  with  square  timbers  below  its  bottom 
planks,  and  carrying  such  a great  weight,  runs  on  a sandbar  with  a 
strong  headway,  and  ploughs  its  timbers  into  the  sand;  and  it  is,  of 
course,  a work  of  extreme  labor  to  get  the  boat  afloat  again.  Its  form 
and  its  weight  render  it  difficult  to  give  it  a direction  with  any  power  of 
oars.  Hence,  in  the  shallow  waters,  it  often  gets  around.  When  it  has 
at  length  cleared  the  shallow  waters,  and  gained  the  heavy  current  of 


PURSUITS  OF  THE  PEOPLE. 


153 


the  Mississippi,  the  landing  such  an  unwieldly  water  craft,  in  such  a 
current,  is  a matter  of  no  little  difficulty  and  danger. 

All  the  toil,  and  danger,  and  exposure,  and  moving  accidents  of  this 
long  and  perilous  voyage,  are  hidden,  however,  from  the  inhabitants,  who 
contemplate  the  boats  floating  by  their  dwellings  on  beautiful  spring 
mornings,  when  the  verdant  forest,  the  mild  and  delicious  temperature 
of  the  air,  the  delightful  azure  of  the  sky  of  this  country,  the  fine  bottom 
on  the  one  hand,  and  the  romantic  bluff  on  the  other,  the  broad  and 
smooth  stream  rolling  calmly  down  the  forest,  and  floating  the  boat 
gently  forward,  present  delightful  images  and  associations  to  the  be- 
holders. At  this  time  there  is  no  visible  danger,  or  call  for  labor.  The 
boat  takes  care  of  itself;  and  little  do  the  beholders  imagine,  how  differ- 
ent a scene  may  be  presented  in  half  an  hour.  Meantime  one  of  the 
hands  scrapes  a violin,  and  the  others  dance.  Greetings,  or  rude  defian- 
ces, or  trials  of  wit,  or  proffers  of  love  to  the  girls  on  the  shore,  or  saucy 
messages,  are  scattered  between  them  and  the  spectators  along  the 
banks.  The  boat  glides  on,  until  it  disappears  behind  the  point  of 
wood.  At  this  moment,  perhaps,  the  bugle,  with  which  all  the  boats  are 
provided,  strikes  up  its  note  in  the  distance  over  the  water.  These  scenes, 
and  these  notes,  echoing  from  the  bluffs  of  the  beautiful  Ohio,  have  a 
charm  for  the  imagination,  which  although  heard  a thousand  times  re- 
peated, at  all  hours  and  in  all  positions,  present  the  image  of  a tempting 
and  charming  youthful  existence,  that  naturally  inspires  a wish  to  be  a 
boatman. 

No  wonder,  that  to  the  young,  who  are  reared  in  these  remote  regions, 
with  that  restless  curiosity,  which  is  fostered  by  solitude  and  silence, 
and  who  witness  scenes  like  this  so  frequently,  the  severe  and  unremit- 
ting labors  of  agriculture,  performed  directly  in  the  view  of  such  specta- 
cles, should  become  tasteless  and  irksome.  No  wonder,  that  the  young, 
along  the  banks  of  the  great  streams,  should  detest  the  labors  of  the  field, 
and  embrace  every  opportunity,  either  openly,  or,  if  minors,  covertly  to 
escape,  and  devote  themselves  to  the  pernicious  employment  of  boating. 
In  this  view  we  may  account  for  the  detestation  of  the  inhabitants,  along 
these  great  streams,  of  steam  boats,  which  are  continually  diminishing 
the  number  of  all  other  boats  and  boatmen,  and  which  have  already  with- 
drawn, probably  ten  thousand  from  that  employment.  We  have  seen, 
what  is  the  character  of  this  employment,  notwithstanding  all  its  seduc- 
tions. In  no  employment  do  the  hands  so  soon  wear  out.  It  is  compar- 
tively  but  a few  years,  since  these  waters  have  been  navigated  in  any  way. 
Yet  at  every  bend,  and  every  high  point  of  the  rivers,  where  you  go  on 
shore  for  a moment,  you  may  expect  to  see  the  narrow  mound,  and  the 
rude  mouument,  and  the  coarse  memorial  carved  on  an  adjoining  tree  by 

20 


154 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


brother  boatmen,  to  mark  the  spot,  where  an  exhausted  boatman  yielded 
his  breath  and  was  buried. 

The  bayou  at  New  Madrid  has  an  extensive  and  fine  eddy,  into  which 
boats  float,  almost  without  exertion,  and  land  in  a remarkably  fine 
harbor.  It  may  be  fairly  considered  the  central  point,  or  the  chief  merid- 
ian of  boats  in  the  Mississippi  valley.  This  bayou  generally  brings  up 
the  descending  and  ascending  boats;  and  this  is  an  excellent  point  of 
observation,  from  which  to  contemplate  their  aspect,  the  character  of  boat- 
ing and  the  descriptions  and  the  amount  of  produce  from  the  upper 
country.  You  can  here  takd  an  imaginary  voyage  to  the  falls  of  St.  An- 
thony, or  Missouri;  to  the  lead  mines  of  Rock  river,  or  to  Chichago  of  lake 
Michigan;  to  Tippicanoe  of  the  Wabash,  Orleannepoint  of  the  Allegha- 
ny, Brownsville  of  the  Monongahela,  the  Saline  of  the  Kenhawa,  or  the 
mountains,  round  whose  bases  winds  the  Tennessee;  or,  if  you  choose, 
you  may  take  the  cheap  and  rapid  journey  of  thought  along  the  courses  of 
an  hundred  other  rivers ; and  in  the  lapse  of  a few  days’  residence  in  the 
spring,  at  this  point,  you  may  see  boats,  which  have  arrived  here  from  all 
these  imagined  places.  One  hundred  boats  have  landed  here  in  a day. — 
The  boisterous  gaiety  of  the  hands,  the  congratulations  of  acquaintances, 
who  have  met  here  from  immense  distances,  the  moving  picture  of  life  on 
board  the  boats,  in  the  numerous  animals,  large  and  small,  which  they 
carry,  their  different  ladings,,  the  evidence  of  the  increasing  agriculture 
above,  and,  more  than  all,  the  immense  distances,  which  they  have  already 
traversed,  afford  a copious  fund  of  meditation.  In  one  place  there  are 
boats  loaded  with  pine  plank,  from  the  pine  forests  of  the  southwest  of 
New  York.  In  another  quarter  there  are  numerous  boats  with  the  ‘Yan- 
kee notions’  of  Ohio.  In  another  quarter  are  landed  together  the  boats  of 
‘ old  Kentucky,’  with  their  whiskey,  hemp,  tobacco,  bagging  and  bale 
rope;  with  all  the  articles  of  the  produce  of  their  soil.  From  Tennes- 
see there  are  the  same  articles,  together  with  boats  loaded  with  bales  of 
cotton.  From  Illinois  and  Missouri,  cattle,  horses,  and  the  general  pro- 
duce of  the  western  country,  together  with  peltry  and  lead  from  Missouri. 
Some  boats  are  loaded  with  corn  in  bulk  and  in  the  ear.  Others  with  barrels 
of  apples  and  potatoes,  and  great  quantities  of  dried  apples  and  peaches. 
Others  have  loads  of  cider,  that  has  been  strengthened  by  boiling,  or  freez- 
ing. Other  boats  are  loaded  with  furniture,  tools,  domestic  and  agricultural 
implements;  in  short,  the  numerous  products  of  the  ingenuity,  specula- 
tion, manufacture  and  agriculture  of  the  whole  upper  country  of  the 
West.  They  have  come  from  regions,  thousands  of  miles  apart.  They 
have  floated  to  a common  point  of  union. — The  surface  of  the  boats 
cover  some  acres.  Dunghill  fowls  are  fluttering  over  the  roofs,  as  invari- 
able appendages.  The  piercing  note  of  the  chanticleer  is  heard. — The 


PURSUITS  or  THE  PEOPLE. 


155 


cattle  low.  The  horses  trample,  as  in  their  stables.  The  swine  utter  the 
cries  of  fighting  with  each  other.  The  turkeys  gobble.  The  dogs  of  an 
hundred  regions  become  acquainted.  The  boatmen  travel  about  from 
boat  to  boat,  make  inquiries  and  acquaintances,  agree  to i lash  boats,’  as 
it  is  called,  and  form  alliances  to  yield  mutual  assistance  to  each  other  on 
the  way  to  New  Orleans.  After  an  hour  or  two  passed  in  this  way,  they 
spring  on  shore,  to  6 raise  the  wind’  in  the  village.  If  they  tarry  all  night, 
as  is  generally  the  case,  it  is  well  for  the  people  of  the  town,  if  they 
do  not  become  riotous  in  the  course  of  the  evening;  in  which  case, 
strong  measures  are  adopted,  and  the  proceedings  on  both  sides  are 
summary  and  decisive.  With  the  first  dawn  all  is  bustle  and  motion ; 
and  amidst  shouts,  and  trampling  of  cattle,  and  barking  of  dogs,  and 
crowing  of  the  dunghill  fowls,  the  fleet  is  in  a half  an  hour  all  under  way; 
and  when  the  sun  rises,  nothing  is  seen,  but  the  broad  stream  rolling  on 
as  before.  These  boats  unite  once  more  at  Natchez  and  New  Orleans; 
and  although  they  live  on  the  same  river,  it  is  improbable  that  they  will 
ever  meet  again  on  the  earth. 

In  passing  below,  we  often  see  a number  of  boats  lashed,  and  floating 
together.  In  travelling  over  the  roofs  of  the  floating  town,  you  have  a 
considerable  walk.  These  associations  have  various  objects.  Boats 
so  united,  as  is  well  known,  float  considerably  faster.  Perhaps  the 
object  is  to  barter,  and  obtain  supplies.  Perhaps  it  is  to  kill  beef,  or 
pork,  for  fresh  provisions.  Apples,  cider,  nuts,  dried  fruit,  whiskey, 
cider,  peach  brandy,  and  drams,  are  retailed ; and  the  concern  is  for  a 
while  one  of  great  merriment  and  good  will.  Unforeseen  moral  storms 
arise;  and  the  partnership,  which  began  in  a frolic,  ends  in  a quarrel. 
The  aggrieved  discharge  a few  mutual  volleys  of  the  compliments,  usu- 
ally interchanged  on  such  occasions,  unlash,  and  each  one  manages  his 
boat  in  his  own  way. 

The  order  of  things  in  the  western  country  naturally  fosters  a propensity 
for  a floating  life  on  the  water.  • The  inhabitants  will  ultimately  become 
as  famous,  as  the  Chinese,  for  having  their  habitancy  in  boats.  In  time 
of  high  waters  at  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  we  were  on  board  an  immensely 
large  flat  boat,  on  which  was  i kept  a town,’  which  had  figured  in  the 
papers,  as  a place;  that  bade  fair  to  rival  the  ancient  metropolis  of  the 
Delta  and  the  Nile. — The  tavern,  the  retail  and  dram  shops,  together 
with  the  inhabitants,  and  no  small  number  of  very  merry  customers, 
floated  on  the  same  bottom.  We  have  seen  a large  tinner’s  establishment 
floating  down  the  Mississippi.  It  was  a respectable  manufactory ; and 
the  articles  were  sold  wholesale  and  retail.  There  were  three  apart- 
ments, and  a number  of  hands.  When  they  had  mended  all  the  tin,  and 
vended  all,  that  they  could  sell  in  one  place,  they  floated  on  to  another. 


156 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


A piece  goods  store  united  with  a bookstore  is  no  uncommon  establish- 
ment. We  have  heard  of  a large  floating  blacksmith’s  establishment; 
and  of  another,  in  which  it  was  contemplated  to  work  a trip  hammer. 
Besides  the  numerous  periogues,  or  singular  looking  Spanish  and  French 
trading  retail  boats,  commonly  called  4 chicken  thieves,’  which  scour  the 
rivers  within  an  hundred  leagues  of  New  Orleans,  there  are  on  all  the 
waters  of  the  West  retail  trading  boats.  They  are  often  fitted  up  with  no 
inconsiderable  ingenuity  and  show.  The  goods  are  fancifully  arranged 
on  shelves.  The  delicate  hands  of  the  vender  would  bear  a comparison 
with  those  of  the  spruce  clerk  behind  our  city  counters.  Every  considera- 
ble landing  place  on  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi  has  in  the 
spring  a number  of  stationary  and  inhabited  boats,  lying  by  at  the  shores. 
They  are  too  often  dram  shops,  and  resorts  of  all  kinds  of  bad  company. 
A severe  inquiry  ought  to  be  instituted  at  all  these  points,  respecting  the 
inmates  and  practices  of  these  floating  mansions  of  iniquity. 

There  is  no  portion  of  the  globe,  where  the  invention  of  steam  boats 
should  be  so  highly  appreciated,  as  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  This 
invention  deserves  to  be  estimated  the  most  memorable  era  of  the  West ; 
and  the  name  of  the  inventor  ought  to  be  handed  down  with  glory  to  the 
generations  to  come.  No  triumph  of  art  over  the  obstacles  of  nature  has 
ever  been  so  complete.  But  for  this  invention,  this  valley  might  have 
sustained  a nation  of  farmers  and  planters ; and  the  comforts,  the  arts, 
refinements  and  intelligence  of  the  day*  would  have,  made  their  way  slowly 
from  New  Orleans  to  the  lakes,  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the 
Rocky  mountains.  Thousands  of  boatmen  would  have  been  slowly  and 
laboriously  warping,  and  rowing,  and  poling,  and  cordelling  their  boats,  in 
a three  months  trip  up  these  mighty  and  long  streams,  which  are  now 
ascended  by  steam  boats  in  ten  days.  It  may  be  safely  asserted,  that  in 
many  respects,  the  improvements  of  fifty  years  without  steam  boats, 
were  brought  to  this  country  in  five  years  after  their  invention.  The  dis- 
tant points  of  the  Ohio  and  the  Mississippi  used  to  be  separated  by 
distances  and  obstacles  of  transit  more  formidable,  in  the  passing,  than  the 
Atlantic.  These  points  are  now  brought  into  juxtaposition.  Distances 
on  the  rivers  are  not  indeed  annihilated ; but  they  are  diminished  to 
about  an  eighth  of  their  former  extent;  and  their  difficulties  and  dangers 
are  reduced  even  more  than  that.  All  the  advantages  of  long  rivers, 
such  as  variety  of  soil,  climate,  productions,  remain  divested  of  all  the 
disadvantages  of  distance  and  difficulty  of  ascent.  The  day  that  com- 
memorates this  invention,  should  be  a holiday  of  interest,  only  second  to 
that,  which  gave  birth  to  the  nation. 

It  is,  perhaps,  necessary  to  have  something  of  the  experience,  which 
we  have  had,  of  the  slowness,  difficulty  and  danger  of  propelling  boats 


PURSUITS  OP  THE  PEOPLE. 


157 


against  the  current  of  these  long  rivers,  fully  to  estimate  the  advantages 
of  this  invention. — We  have  ascended  the  Mississippi  in  this  way  for 
fifty  days  in  succession.  We  have  had  but  too  much  of  the  same  kind 
of  experience  on  the  other  streams.  We  considered  ten  miles  a day,  as 
good  progress.  It  is  now  refreshing,  and  it  imparts  a feeling  of  energy  and 
power  to  the  beholder,  to  see  the  large  and  beautiful  steam  boats  scud- 
ding up  the  eddies,  as  though  on  the  wing.  When  they  have  run  out  the 
eddy,  and  strike  the  current,  it  is  a still  more  noble  spectacle.  The 
foam  bursts  in  a sheet  quite  over  the  deck.  The  boat  quivers  for  a 
moment  with  the  concussion;  and  then,  as  though  she  had  collected 
energy,  and  vanquished  her  enemy,  she  resumes  her  stately  march,  and 
mounts  against  the  current  five  or  six  miles  an  hour.  We  have  travelled 
ten  days  together  between  New  Orleans  and  Louisville,  more  than  an 
hundred  miles  in  a day  against  the  stream.  The  difficulty  of  ascending 
used  to  be  the  only  one,  that  was  dreaded  in  the  anticipation  of  a voyage 
of  this  kind.  This  difficulty  has  now  disappeared,  and  the  only  one, 
that  remains,  is  to  furnish  money  for  the  trip.  Even  the  expense,  con- 
sidering the  luxury  of  the  fare,  and  accommodation,  is  more  moderate, 
than  could  be  expected.  A family  in  Pittsburgh  wishes  to  make  a social 
visit  to  a kindred  family  on  Red  river.  The  trip,  as  matters  now  stand, 
is  but  two  thousand  miles.  Servants,  baggage,  or  4 plunder,’  as  the  phrase 
is,  the  family  and  the  family  dog,  cat  and  parrot,  all  go  together.  In  twelve 
days  they  reach  the  point  proposed.  Even  the  return  is  but  a short 
voyage.  Surely  we  must  resist  strong  temptations,  if  we  do  not  become 
a social  people.  You  are  invited  to  a breakfast  at  seventy  miles  distance. 
You  go  on  board  the  passing  steam  boat,  and  are  transported,  during  the 
night,  so  as  to  go  out  in  the  morning,  and  reach  your  appointment.  The 
day  will  probably  come,  when  the  inhabitants  of  the  warm  and  sickly 
regions  of  the  lower  points  of  the  Mississippi  will  take  their  periodical 
migrations  to  the  north,  with  the  geese  and  swans,  and  with  them  return 
to  the  south  in  the  autumn. 

We  have  compared  the  most  beautiful  steam  boats  of  the  Atlantic 
waters  with  those  of  the  Mississippi ; and  we  have  seen  none,  which  in 
splendor  and  striking  effect  upon  the  eye,  and  the  luxury  and  comfort  of 
accommodation,  surpass  the  Washington,  Philadelphia,  Lady  of  the  Lake, 
Florida,  and  some  others,  on  these  waters.  We  have  been  amused  in 
observing  an  Atlantic  stranger,  who  had  heard  us  described  by  the  phrase 
4 backwoods  men,’  taking  his  first  survey  of  such  a steam  boat.  If  there 
be  any  ground  of  complaint,  it  is,  that  so  much  gorgeousness  offends 
good  taste,  and  seems  to  be  in  opposition  to  that  social  ease  and  comfort, 
which  one  would  desire  in  such  a place.  Certainly,  there  can  be  no 
comparison  between  the  comfort  of  the  passage  from  Cincinnati  to  New 


158 


MISSISSIPPI  -VALLEY. 


Orleans  in  such  a steam  boat,  and  a voyage  at  sea.  The  barren  and 
boundless  expanse  of  waters  soon  tires  upon  every  eye,  but  a seaman’s. 
And  then  there  are  storms,  and  the  necessity  of  fastening  the  tables,  and 
of  holding  to  something,  to  keep  in  bed.  There  is  the  insupportable 
nausea  of  sea  sickness,  and  there  is  danger.  Here  you  aie  always  near 
the  shore,  always  see  the  green  earth;  can  always  eat,  write  and  study 
undisturbed.  You  can  always  obtain  cream,  fowls,  vegetables,  fruit,  fresh 
meat,  and  wild  game,  in  their  season,  from  the  shore. 

A stranger  to  this  mode  of  travelling  would  find  it  difficult  to  describe 
his  impressions  upon  descending  the  Mississippi  for  the  first  time  in  one 
of  these  steam  boats,  which  we  have  named.  He  contemplates  the  pro- 
digious construction,  with  its  double  tiers  of  cabins,  and  its  separate 
establishment  for  the  ladies,  and  its  commodious  arrangements  for  the 
deck  passengers  and  the  servants.  Over  head,  about  him,  and  below  him, 
all  is  life  and  movement.  He  contemplates  the  splendor  of  the  cabin,  its 
beautiful  finishing  of  the  richest  woods,  its  rich  carpeting,  its  mirrors  and 
fine  furniture,  its  sliding  tables,  its  bar  room,  and  all  its  arrangements  for  the 
accommodation  of  a hundred  cabin  passengers.  The  fare  is  sumptuous, 
and  every  thing  in  a style  of  splendor,  order  and  quiet,  far  exceeding 
most  city  taverns.  You  read,  converse,  walk,  or  sleep,  as  you  choose. 
You  are  not  burdened  by  the  restraint  of  useless  ceremony.  The  varied 
and  verdant  scenery  shifts  about  you.  The  trees,  the  green  islands,  the 
houses  on  the  shore,  every  thing  has  an  appearance,  as  by  enchantment, 
of  moving  past  you.  The  river  fpwl,  with  their  white  and  extended  lines, 
are  wheeling  their  flight  above  you.  The  sky  is  bright.  The  river  is 
dotted  with  boats  above,  beside,  and  below  you.  You  hear  the  echo 
of  their  bugle  reverberating  from  ihe  woods.  Behind  the  wooded  point 
you  see  the  ascending  column  of  smoke,  rising  over  the  trees,  which 
announces,  that  another  steam  boat  is  approaching  you.  The  moving 
pageant  glides  through  a narrow  passage,  between  an  island,  thick  set 
with  young  cotton  woods,  so  even,  so  beautiful,  and  regular,  that  they 
seem  to  have  been  planted  for  a pleasure  ground,  and  the  main  shore. 
As  you  shoot  out  again  into  the  broad  stream,  you  come  in  view  of  a 
plantation,  with  all  its  busy  and  cheerful  accompaniments.  • At  other 
times  you  are  sweeping  along  for  many  leagues  together,  where  either 
shore  is  a boundless  and  pathless  wilderness.  A contrast  is  thus  strongly 
forced  upon  the  mind,  of  the  highest  improvement  and  the  latest  pre-emi- 
nent invention  of  art  with  the  most  lonely  aspect  of  a grand  but  desolate 
nature, — the  most  striking  and  complete  assemblage  of  splendor  and 
comfort,  the  cheerfulness  of  a floating  hotel,  which  carries,  perhaps, 
hundreds  of  guests,  with  a wild  and  uninhabited  forest,  it  may  be  an  hun- 
dred miles  in  width,  the  abode  only  of  bears,  owls  and  noxious  animals 


I 

CIVIL  HISTORY.  159 

The  Mississippi  may  be  fairly  considered,  as  the  grand  trunk  of  water 
communication,  and  the  Missouri,  Illinois,  Ohio,  White,  Arkansas  and 
Red  rivers,  the  main  arteries.  Each  of  these  again  has  its  own  system 
of  circulation.  To  the  lakes,  and  the  immense  distances  of  the  highest 
boatable  waters  of  the  Alleghany,  Monongahela,  Kenhawa,  Cumberland, 
Tennessee,  Yazoo,  Mississippi,  Missouri,  Arkansas  and  Red  rivers,  add 
communications  with  all  the  shores  and  rivers  of  the  northern  lakes,  the 
gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  the  Atlantic  sea  board  by  the  Ohio  and  Erie 
canal,  and  the  Pennsylvania  canal ; and  the  numerous  connexions  of  all 
the  western  boatable  waters  by  canals,  to  which  these  will  naturally  give 
birth,  and  we  may  safely  assert,  that  this  valley  is  a sample  entirely  by  itself 
on  our  globe  of  the  ease  and  extent  of  inland  water  communications. 
New  Orleans  can  not  have  less  than  40,000  miles  of  interior  navigation  on 
all  her  lakes,  bayous,  and  hundreds  of  boatable  streams ; without  taking 
into  view  the  added  extent  of  the  northern  lakes,  which  will  be  connected 
with  her  by  the  Ohio  carpal.  For  water  communication  she  has  no  rival 
nor  compeer;  and  she  may  be  justly  denominated  the  queen  of  rivers. 
The  whole  western  country  is  as  strongly  marked  off  from  any  other 
region  by  the  number  and  extent  of  its  navigable  waters,  as  it  is  by  the 
greater  magnitude  of  its  valley. 

We  annex  the  subjoined  table,  as  a complete  list  of  the  names  and 
the  tonnage  of  the  steam  boats  at  present  on  the  western  waters.* 

Civil  History.  Our  plan  only  admits  a very  brief  summary  of  the 
j|  more  prominent  points  of  those  events,  which  may  be  supposed  to  have 
| had  a direct  bearing  upon  the  progress  of  the  West.  It  will  touch  upon 
the  discovery  and  settlement  of  Florida,  and  the  country  on  the  Missis- 
sippi ; the  first  settlement  of  the  eastern  extremity  of  the  valley  by  the 
western  extension  of  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia  over  the  mountains;  the 
first  settlement  of  Tennessee  and  Kentucky;  those  incidents  in  the  war 
of  the  revolution,  that  occurred  in  the  West;  the  settlement  of  Ohio ; 
the  Indian  war,  which  ensued  upon  that  settlement;  the  successive 
admission  of  the  western  states  into  the  union;  the  first  use  of  steam 
boats;  the  events  of  the  late  war,  which  happened  in  the  west;  and  its 
subsequent  improvement  and  prosperity. 

The  first  discovery  and  settlement  of  the  country  west  of  the  Missis- 
I sippi  was  by  a Spanish  squadron  from  Cuba,  commanded  by  Ponce  de 
Leon,  in  1512.  Successive  Spanish  adventurers  visited  the  country, 
allured  by  the  hope  of  finding  a visionary  spring,  which  was  to  sustain 
those,  who  drank  of  it  in  perpetual  youth;  or  the  same  harvest  of  golden 


i 


*See  Appendix,  table  No.  VIII. 


1(50 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


treasures  with  their  countrymen  in  Mexico  and  Peru.  The  country, 
though  not  fertile,  abounded  in  fish  and  game,  and  with  tribes  of  fierce 
savages.  VasqUez,  Narvaez,  and  Soto  successively  visited,  and  surveyed 
the  country.  The  French  commenced  a small  settlement  near  St.  Au- 
gustine, in  1564.  It  was  cruelly  destroyed  by  the  Spaniards.  The 
establishment,  which  they  left  in  place  of  it,  was  in  turn  destroyed  by 
the  French. 

The  settlement  of  Canada  commenced  in  1608,  and  speedily  became 
a strong  and  populous  colony.  The  honor  of  having  discovered  the 
Mississippi,  is  claimed  both  by  the  Spanish  and  the  French.  Marquette 
and  Joliette,  two  French  missioners  in  1763  were  probably  the  first 
Europeans,  who  exploied  the  river.  La  Salle,  a year  or  two  afterwards, 
followed  their  track  from  Canada,  built  a vessel  called  the  Griffin  on  the 
lake,  with  which  he  crossed  those  lonely  waters;  descended  the  Missis- 
sippi ; and  by  his  more  extended  survey,  his  greater  enterprize,  his  adven- 
tures and  misfortunes,  identified  his  name  with  the  Mississippi,  as  its 
discoverer. 

The  Spanish  made  various  unsuccessful  efforts  to  form  establishments 
in  Florida.  They  renewed  those  efforts,  until  they  founded  a feeble 
colony  in  East  Florida;  and  gradually  extended  their  settlements  from 
St.  Augustine  to  Pensacola  in  West  Florida.  They  had  been  in  undis- 
turbed possession  of  that  country  more  than  fifty  years,  before  the  French 
began  to  settle  the  Illinois  country.  Not  long  afterwards,  they  de- 
scended the  Mississippi,  and  formed  settlements  at  Biloxi  and  Mobile 
in  Florida.  It  was  some  time  afterwards,  that  they  founded  St.  Genevieve 
and  St.  Louis  on  the  west  shore  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Illinois  colony 
followed  the  chase  in  close  intimacy  with  the  Indians.  They  learned 
to  cultivate  maize  from  them;  and  in  their  exceedingly  fertile  country 
soon  introduced  the  cultivation  of  wheat. 

The  first  French  settlement  on  the  lower  Mississippi,  that  acquired 
importance,  was  that  made  at  New  Orleans,  in  1717,  which  became  the 
germ  of  the  respectable  colony  of  Louisiana.  The  early  periods  of 
Florida  and  Louisiana  are  marked  only  by  the  customary  incidents  of 
commencing  establishments  in  the  American  wilderness.  Settlements  were 
commenced,  and  abandoned.  Frequent  quarrels  occurred  with  the  Indians 
made  a universal  feature  of  these,  in  common  with  all  other  similar 
beginnings.  When  France  and  Spain  were  at  war  as  happened  more 
than  once  during  these  annals,  these  remote  colonies  uniformly  felt  the 
effects.  Expeditions  against  each  other  were  fitted  out,  accompcnied  by 
all  the  Indians,  they  could  enlist  under  their  standard. 

The  first  settlers  of  Illinois,  and  Missouri  were  chiefly  hunters  from 
Canada,  addicted  to  the  woods.  Louisiana  was  peopled  by  immigrants 


CIVIL  HISTORY, 


161 


'directly  from  France,  many  of  whom  were  persons  of  rank  and  family. 
These  military  adventurers,  in  a remote  country,  and  in  want  of  wives 
were  sometimes  supplied  by  young  ladies  selected  in  the  parent  country 
without  much  discrimination,  sent  over  the  sea,  and  married  in  mass  the 
first  night  of  their  arrival. 

The  Spanish  province  of  Florida  derived  its  chief  importance  from  its 
proximity  to  Cuba.  Cooler  and  healthier  than  the  burning  climate  of 
Havanna,  it  was  considered  a retreat  from  that  city ; and  beside,  occa- 
sionally furnished  it  with  provisions.  Various  circumstances  concurred 
to  give  slavery  an  early  and  extensive  introduction  into  Louisiana. 
Agriculture,  though  among  the  last  objects  contemplated  by  the  inhabi- 
tants, was  forced  upon  them  by  circumstances.  Apparently  ignorant  of  the 
exhaustless  fertility  of  the  soil,  the  French  for  a long  time  imported  their 
provisions  from  the  parent  country,  or  the  Spanish  colonies.  Wars  and 
the  occasional  suspension  of  their  intercourse  with  France  taught  them 
the  necessity  of  securing  a less  precarious  subsistence  from  the  soil. 
Illinois  early  sent  down  flour  to  Louisiana.  The  culture  of  rice  was 
introduced  with  great  success,  to  which  were  afterwards  added  cotton 
and  sugar.  The  last  important  article  was  first  cultivated  in  1751,  from 
cane  brought  from  Hispaniola.  It  was  abandoned,  and  effectually  re- 
sumed in  1794  by  Etienne  Bore,  a planter  fron  Illinois. 

Different  enumerations  of  the  inhabitants  gave  results  as  follow.  In 
1769  the  population  of  upper  and  lower  Louisiana  was  13,538 ; and  of 
New  Orleans  3,190.  In  1785,  32,114;  New  Orleans  4,980;  in  1788, 
42,611;  New  Orleans  5,338;  in  1810,  by  the  census  taken  by  order  of 
the  American  government,  Louisiana  alone  contained  76,566;  and  New 
Orleans  24,552. 

Could  we  present  the  picture  of  the  pursuits  and  manners  of  the 
colonists  of  the  Mississippi  and  Florida,  in  the  commencing  periods  of 
their  history,  it  would  be  striking  from  its  freshness  and  simplicity.  The 
French  in  particular  were  remarkable  for  a talent  of  ingratiating  them- 
selves with  the  savages ; and  for  an  easy  amalgamation  with  them ; at 
first  from  natural  courtesy,  which  soon  became  a real  inclination  and  a 
habit.  The  soil  was  fertile,  the  climate  mild,  and  the  chase  inexhaustible. 
Their  choice  of  selection  in  a forest  or  prairie  extended  over  eight  hun- 
dred leagues ; unlike  other  European  immigrants,  who  generally  preferred 
to  settle  themselves  at  a distance  from  each  other,  for  the  sake  of  range 
for  their  domestic  animals,  the  French  manifested  propensities  both 
vagrant  and  social,  and  each  in  the  highest  degree.  Their  villages, 
though  a hundred  leagues  from  each  other,  were  built  with  such  narrow 
streets,  that  the  villagers  could  carry  on  their  voluble  conversations  across 
the  way.  It  gratified  their  national  ambition  to  maintain  a prepondera- 

21 


162 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY, 


ting  influence  among  the  savage  tribes.  The  pursuit  of  the  young  men 
was  to  ascend  the  long  rivers  for  furs  and  peltries,  and  to  negotiate 
marriages.  When  they  returned,  dances  and  copious  narratives  of  their 
adventures  and  exploits  signalized  their  holiday  of  repose.  Such  is  an 
outline  of  the  modes  of  existence  of  the  French  in  these  early  times  in 
Kaskaskias,  Cahokia,  Vincennes,  St.  Genevieve,  St.  Louis,  St.  Charles, 
the  Post  of  Arkansas,  Natchitoches,  and  Natchez. 

At  New  Orleans  there  was  always  a certain  number  of  people  of  fashion, 
a kind  of  court,  a theatre,  and  the  semblance  of  more  polished,  but  pro- 
bably less  happy  amusements.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  were  people  of 
family,  and  the  leading  men  military  characters.  The  first  settlers  of 
Louisiana  were  probably  of  higher  rank,  than  those  of  any  other  colony 
in  North  America,  if  we  except  Mexico. 

The  lower  classes  had  their  dogs  and  guns,  and  Indian  beauties ; and 
to  accommodate  their  vagrant  propensities,  there  were  rivers  of  a thou- 
sand leagues  to  ascend.  An  unexplored  and  unbounded  forest  full  of 
game  opened  sufficient  scope  to  their  imagination  and  enterprise.  It  was 
perhaps  a fortunate  trait  in  their  character,  certainly  an  amiable  one,  that 
they  were  so  easy  in  forming  associations  with  the  savages,  the  only  com- 
panions, they  could  expect  in  these  remote  deserts,  where  they  heard 
from  France  seldom  more  than  once  in  a year.  Their  descendants,  who 
inhabit  these  regions,  speak  of  their  fathers  as  a favored  race  of  mortals, 
and  of  those  times,  as  a golden  age. 

From  New  Orleans  and  Mobile  the  exports  were  considerable,  consist- 
ing of  cotton,  indigo,  peltry,  furs,  hides,  tallow,  pitch,  tar,  ship  timber 
and  other  raw  materials.  The  coast  above  New  Orleans  was  already 
beginning  to  be  that  highly  cultivated  district,  which  it  has  since  become. 
The  agriculture  and  exports  went  on  steadily  advancing,  during  all  its 
political  changes  and  transfers. 

The  settlements  of  the  Mississippi  valley  began  in  its  southwest  and 
northeast  extremities,  the  one  point  two  thousand  miles  remote  from  the 
other.  From  these  points,  the  population  gradually  extended,  until  they 
met  in  the  centre. 

Pittsburgh,  at  first  occupied  by  the  French,  and  called  Duquesne,  and 
afterwards  Fort  Pitt,  may  be  considered  the  hive,  or  parental  stock  o f 
the  Anglo  American  settlements  in  the  western  country,  which  have  out- 
numbered the  population  of  the  much  more  ancient  French  settlements  of 
Illinois  and  Louisiana,  in  the  proportion  of  fifty  to  one.  There  were  a 
few  sparse  settlements  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Monongahela, 
as  early  as  1750.  These  settlements  were  made  under  the  sanction  of 
the  English  Ohio  company,  expressly  with  the  purpose  to  restrain  the 
French  encroachments  in  that  quarter.  In  pursuance  of  their  plan 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


163 


to  connect  their  settlements  in  Canada  and  Louisiana,  they  had  estab- 
lished a fort  at  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela.  In 
1763  this  establishment  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  English, and  its  name 
was  changed  from  fort  Duquesne  to  Fort  Pitt.  The  convenience  and 
importance  of  its  position  soon  attracted  a considerable  number  of  inhab- 
itants. Red  Stone,  now  Brownsville,  began  the  settlements  on  the 
Monono’ahela,  These  two  towns  were  the  nucleus  of  the  establishments 

o 

in  West  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia. 

As  early  as  1750,  the  French  had  established  some  small  posts  on  the 
Alabama,  Tombigbee  and  Tennessee  rivers.  In  1757,  the  English  built 
fort  Loudon  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Little  Tennessee,  near  the  mouth 
of  Tellico  river.  The  object  was  to  secure  the  fertile  valley  of  the  Ten- 
nessee against  the  occupation  of  the  French,  as  an  asylum  for  American 
immigrants;  and  to  defend  the  frontier  settlements  against  the  invasions 
of  the  savages.  In  1760,  this  fort  was  taken  by  the  Cherokees;  and 
three  hundred  men,  women  and  children  were  slain,  and  all  the  anglo 
American  inhabitants  of  Tennessee  destroyed. 

In  1761  colonel  Grant  led  a strong  force  into  the  Cherokee  country, 
chastised  the  savages,  and  compelled  them  to  sue  for  peace.  From  that 
time  immigrants  from  Pennsylvania  and  Virginia  began  to  find  their  way 
into  the  country,  and  to  name  the  mountains  and  rivers.  These  hunters 
and  adventurers  broadened  the  circle  of  population,  and  gradually  pene- 
trated into  the  interior  of  East  Tennessee. 

The  first  settlement  of  Tennessee  and  Kentucky  were  nearly  cotempo- 
raneous.  The  name  of  the  famous  Daniel  Boone  is  identified  with  the 
discovery  and  settlement  of  both.  Kentucky  was  first  explored  by  Finley 
from  North  Carolina  in  1767.  Finley,  Boone,  Harrod  and  Logan  are 
among  the  conspicuous  names  of  the  hardy  primitive  adventurers  into 
this  fertile  wilderness.  Sevier,  Tipton  and  Blount  hold  the  same  rank 
among  the  precursors  in  the  settlement  of  Tennessee. 

Few  colonies  have  existed,  that  can  produce  annals  of  deeper  interest, 
than  those  which  record  the  origin  and  progress  of  these  states.  The 
patriarchal  pioneers  of  these  backwoodsmen,  were  people  of  a peculiar 
and  remarkable  order,  trained  by  circumstances  to  a character,  which 
united  force,  hardihood,  and  energy  in  an  astonishing  degree.  Opinion 
has  generally  invested  them  with  a predominance  of  rough  traits,  and 
rustic  habits  approximating  the  character  of  the  Indians.  They  were  in 
fact  as  much  distinguished  by  an  ample  basis  of  gentlemanly  character, 
and  chivalrous  notions  of  honor  and  justice,  as  for  strength,  firmness  and 
bravery. 

There  is  an  indescribable  charm  in  becoming  intimately  acquainted 
with  these  noble  founders  of  the  empire  of  the  west,  from  their  first  fix 


164 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


ing  their  families  in  the  selected  spot  in  the  forest,  through  their  conflicts 
with  the  Indians,  the  difficulties  incident  to  solitude,  distance  from  all 
social  comforts,  and  exposure  to  all  the  dangers  of  a strange  climate; 
until  their  cabins  are  replaced  by  houses,  and  their  houses  by  mansions ; 
until  their  stations  are  converted  to  villages  and  the  villages  to  towns ; 
and  until  these  sparse  beginnings  in  the  unexplored  wilderness  full  of 
savages  and  wild  beasts  become  powerful  states.  Imagination  would 
recoil  from  the  dreary  uniformity  of  these  early  annals,  in  recording'Indian 
assaults,  burnings,  murders,  and  all  the  ruthless  manifestations  of  un pity- 
ing and  unsparing  savage  vengeance,  were  not  the  picture  relieved  by  the 
reckless  heroism  of  the  undaunted  spirits,  that  put  a strong  and  cheerful 
hand  to  the  first  improvements,  every  moment  surrounded  by  these 
savages. 

Four  counties  were  constituted  by  law  in  Kentucky  in  1783.  Boons- 
borough,  Harrodsburg,  Limestone,  now  Maysville,  Louisville,  and 
Lexington  were  among  the  earliest  and  most  conspicuous  foundations  in 
Kentucky.  Knoxville  and  Nashville  sustain  the  same  relation  to  the 
early  history  of  Tennessee,  the  former  being  settled  in  1782,  and  the 
latter  in  1784.  Among  the  records  of  Indian  assault  and  revenge  tho 
severest  disaster  in  the  history  of  the  settlement  of  Kentucky  is  that  of 
the  defeat  of  the  Kentuckians  at  the  Blue  Licks  in  1782,  in  which  sixty- 
one  were  slain  and  eight  made  prisoners.  The  first  newspaper  printed 
in  Kentucky  was  printed  at  Lexington  August  1787. 

As  early  as  1785,  the  people  of  Kentucky  began  to  discuss  the  expe- 
diency of  becoming  an  independent  state.  No  little  difficulty  occurred 
in  settling  the  preliminary  arrangements,  and  obtaining  the  unqualified 
assent  of  Virginia,  the  parent  state. 

In  pursuing  measures  to  become  an  independent  state,  Tennessee 
found  more  difficulty  than  Kentucky.  Beside  the  same  opposition  from 
North  Carolina,  as  Kentucky  encountered  from  Virginia,  the  people 
were  divided  among  themselves.  A portion  of  the  inhabitants,  who 
wished  to  establish  a state  independenfof  the  consent  of  North  Carolina, 
the  parent  state,  constituted  themselves  into  a republic  called  Frankland. 
After  an  inefficient  war  of  words  with  the  authorities  of  North  Carolina, 
and  after  some  blood  had  been  spilt  in  the  cause,  the  new  republic  was 
merged  in  the  state  of  Tennessee,  which  was  admitted  into  the  union  in 
1796.  The  annals  of  East  and  West  Tennessee,  present  a dreary  series 
of  Indian  murders,  sometimes  of  individuals,  sometimes  of  whole  fami- 
lies down  to  as  late  a period,  as  three  or  four  years  after  the  establish- 
ment of  the  federal  government.  Imagination  can  scarcely  realize,  that 
in  this  great  and  powerful  state,  now  so  prominent  a member  of  the  con- 
federacy, the  Indian  war  whoop  and  the  shrieks  of  assailed  women  and 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


1G5 


children  were  heard,  and  the  blaze  of  houses  and  settlements,  which  the 
Indians  had  fired,  were  seen,  after  the  year  1790,  and  in  districts,  where 
Indians  are  now  as  seldom  seen,  as  in  Washington  or  Philadelphia.  The 
first-  Tennessee  newspaper  was  printed  at  Rogersville,  in  November 
1791.  It  was  called  the  Knoxville  Gazette. 

The  most  prominent  trait  of  character  in  the  people  of  these  two 
states  from  the  commencement  was  a sturdy  spirit  of  independence,  and 
the  most  vigilant  jealousy  of  their  rights.  These  traits  were  abundantly 
put  forth  in  their  discussions  with  their  parent  states,  touching  the 
question  of  their  separation;  in  the  guarded  manner  in  which  they 
weighed  the  extent,  the  right  and  infiueuce  of  federal  jurisdiction,  and  in 
their  extreme  suspicion,  touching  the  manner,  in  which  congress  vindi- 
cated their  claims  to  the  free  navigation  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  commencement  of  the  great  state  of  Ohio,  at  present  the  fourth  in 
point  of  size  in  the  Union,  and  completing  the  chain  of  population  be- 
tween the  eastern  and  western  divisions  of  the  settled  portion  of  this 
valley,  was  of  still  more  recent  date.  The  progress  of  this  great  state 
has  no  parallel  in  the  history  of  colonies,  in  point  of  advancement  in  na- 
tional wealth,  population,  strength  and  improvement  of  every  kind. 
Forty  years  since,  it  was  in  the  occupation  of  savages.  It  now  numbers 
a million  of  inhabitants,  a hundred  and  thirty  thousand  militia,  two  canals, 
one  over  three  hundred  miles  in  length,  one  considerable  and  rapidly 
advancing  city,  a great  number  of  towns,  and  a hundred  populous  villa- 
ges. Handsome  houses  are  springing  up  every  year.  Large  manufac- 
turing establishments,  are  constantly  arising,  emulating  the  same  order 
of  things  in  the  Atlantic  country.  A mass  of  farmers  is  spread  over  the 
whole  state,  rich  in  rural  abundance,  in  simplicity  of  manners,  and  the 
materials  of  genuine  independence.  Of  its  schools,  colleges,  manufacto- 
ries and  national  improvements,  any  state,  however  advanced  in  im- 
provement, might  be  proud.  All  this  progress  has  been  from  an  innate 
principle  of  vigor,  without  the  forcing  aid  of  speculation,  opulence,  or 
power;  and  is  a triumph  so  recently  won  from  the  forest,  that  on  all  sides 
we  still  see  the  remains  of  the  original  trees  in  the  fields. 

The  order  of  settlement  in  this  state,  as  if  fashioned  from  that  of  the 
Mississippi  valley,  commenced  almost  at  the  same  time  in  its  eastern 
and  western  extremities.  As  France  claims  the  paternity  of  the  settle- 
ments along  the  course  of  the  Mississippi,  and  North  Carolina  and  Vir- 
ginia, of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee,  Ohio  may  be  considered  the  offspring 
of  New  England  and  New  Jersey.  The  famous  wagon  which  carried  out 
the  first  settlers  from  Massachusetts  to  Ohio,  started  in  1788.  General 
Pulnam  and  Dr.  Cutler  may  be  estimated  the  pioneers  of  the  settle- 
ment of  Marietta. 


166 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


Judge  Symmes,  with  a number  of  settlers  from  New  York,  New  Jer- 
sey and  and  western  Pennsylvania  commenced  the  settlement  between 
the  twoMiamies,  as  the  point,  which  is  now  Columbia,  in  November 
1789.  Fort  Washington  was  established  on  the  present  site  of  Cincinnati 
in  the  same  year.  This  establishment  was  the  germ  of  the  town,  which 
was  originally  called  Losantiville.  Ludlow,  Filson,  Denman  and  Patter- 
son were  the  original  purchasers  of  the  town  plat.  In  1789  the  settlement 
numbered  twenty  log  cabins,  two  marriages  were  celebrated,  and  the 
first  child  was  born.  The  first  court  was  organized  in  1790,  and  the 
name  of  the  place  changed  to  Cincinnati. 

The  settlements,  thus  commenced  at  Marietta  and  Cincinnati,  rapidly 
extended  on  every  side,  until  checked  by  the  Indian  war  in  1791.  From 
that  period  commenced  the  same  gloomy  and  uniform  series  of  Indian 
massacres,  assaults  and  burnings,  that  signalized  the  beginnings  of  all 
the  American  settlements.  The  disastrous  campaign  of  General  St. 
Clair  for  a while  arrested  the  progress  of  the  settlements.  Many  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Cincinnati  were  killed  in  that  campaign,  and  many  other 
settlers  moved  for  security  into  Kentucky,  which  had  attained  a compact- 
ness of  population  to  be  fearless  of  Indian  assault.  The  glorious  cam- 
paign of  Wayne  succeeded;  and  an  end  was  put  to  this  sanguinary 
warfare  in  1795. 

From  this  time,  there  was  a rush  of  immigration  towards  the  Ohio 
valley.  The  wonderful  tale  of  western  exuberance  once  more  circulated 
with  effect  along  the  whole  range  of  the  Atlantic  country.  It  was  no 
longer  counterbalanced  by  the  dread  of  the  Indian  scalping  knife.  All 
the  great  roads  of  approach  to  the  western  country  were  crowded  with 
adventurers  directing  their  course  towards  the  land  of  promise;  and 
fleets  of  boats  were  continually  floating  them  down  the  Ohio.  The 
settlements  diverged  from  Marietta  on  the  one  hand,  and  Cincinnati  on 
the  other  towards  the  height  of  land  between  the  Ohio  and  the  lakes. 

Connecticut  Reserve  was  settled  chiefly  from  Connecticut.  The  ex- 
traordinary fertility  of  the  Scioto  valley  early  attracted  inhabitants.  The 
country  on  the  Great  Miami,  from  Cincinnati  to  Dayton,  and  thence  to 
Urbanna  soon  became  populous;  and  the  great  outline  of  the  state  of 
Ohio  rapidly  filled  with  inhabitants,  and  the  noiseless  and  powerful 
march  of  industry  transformed  the  silence  of  the  forest  to  cultivation, 
farms,  villages  and  towns. 

The  first  territorial  legislature  met  at  Cincinnati  in  1799.  Repre- 
sentatives from  Detroit  and  Kaskaskias,  eight  hundred  miles  apart,  were 
present.  The  act  of  Congress  admitting  Ohio  into  the  union,  was  passed 
in  1801 ; and  in  1803,  the  present  constitution  of  the  state  went  into 
operation. 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


167 


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It  should  have  seemed,  that  this  vast  country  of  forests  and  prairies 
in  the  interior  of  the  continent,  so  recently  and  sparsely  settled,  ought 
to  have  avoided  the  horrors  of  war.  Such  has  not  been  its  fortune. 
Beside  its  constant  exposure,  in  all  directions,  to  the  covert  ambush 
and  the  fierce  assault  of  the  savages,  its  shores  have  been  abundantly 
stained  with  the  blood  of  men  of  our  own  race,  brought  here  by  the 
cupidity  and  revenge  of  corrupt  princes,  separated  from  it  by  an  ocean ; 
and  who  received,  and  inflicted  death  in  these  remote  regions  for  causes, 
in  which  they  had  no  personal  concern. 

We  shall  present  some  of  the  more  important  military  events,  that  have 
occurred  in  the  west,  in  the  unpretending  form  of  annals. 

War  existing  between  France  and  Spain,  Pensacola  was  invaded  by 
a French  expedition,  aided  by  four  hundred  Indians,  in  1719.  Two 
vessels  of  war  invested  it  by  sea.  The  Spanish  governor  surrendered 
on  condition,  that  the  garrison  should  be  transported  to  Havanna.  It 
was  re-taken  the  same  year  by  a Spanish  fleet. 

The  general  massacre  of  the  French  at  Natchez  by  the  Indians  hap- 
pened November  1729.  Never  was  vengeance  so  complete.  The  town 
was  crowded  with  people  assembled  to  witness  a great  savage  festival. 
The  garrison  was  filled  with  warriors  introduced  without  suspicion.  At 
a given  signal  the  massacre  commenced.  Of  seven  hundred  people 
scarcely  enough  were  left  to  carry  the  tidings.  The  settlements  on  the 
Yazoo  and  Washita  shared  the  same  fate.  The  French  retaliated  this 
massacre  by  nearly  extirpating  the  whole  nation  of  the  Natchez. 

A remnant  of  this  people  took  shelter  with  the  Chickasaws,  and  were 
demanded  by  the  French  . The  Chickasaws,  in  alliance  with  the  English, 
refused  to  yield  them.  Bienville  led  a French  expedition  from  Mobile 
against  them,  which  was  aided  by  an  auxiliary  French  force  from  Illinois. 
Both  the  invading  forces  were  defeated  by  the  Chickasaws.  Another 
expedition  by  the  same  officer  with  a greater  force,  was  equally  un- 
successful. 

In  pursuance  of  their  plan,  to  surround  the  English  colonies  on  the 
Atlantic  sea  board  by  a line  of  posts  connected  by  water  communica- 
tions, from  the  gulf  of  St.  Lawrence  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  the  French, 
with  equal  energy  and  ingenuity  had  arranged  a chain  of  posts,  portages, 
roads  and  alliances  with  the  Indians,  which  kept  up  an  easy  and  unbroken 
connection  between  Canada  and  Louisiana.  It  was  drawn,  as  a bow 
string,  directly  in  the  rear  of  the  whole  English  colonial  line  of  settle- 
ments. It  was  an  important  part  of  this  chain,  to  add  to  it  a communi- 
cation between  lake  Erie  and  the  Ohio.  For  this  purpose,  the  French 
established  a fort  on  a water  of  the  Alleghany  river,  intermediate  between 
lake  Erie  and  the  Ohio.  The  connection  was  completed  by  the  erection 


168 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


of  Fort  Duquesne  at  the  point,  where  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  and 
Monongahela  forms  the  Ohio,  the  present  site  of  Pittsburgh. 

General  Braddock,  with  a considerable  body  of  regular  troops,  aided 
by  a force  of  provincials  under  General  Washington,  was  ordered  to  cross 
the  Alleghany  mountains,  and  attack  this  fort.  Obstinately  attached  to 
the  regularity  of  European  tactics,  against  the  advice  of  men  experienced 
in  Indian  warfare,  the  British  general  marched  in  the  depth  of  the  forest, 
into  an  ambush  of  French  and  Indians  concealed  among  the  trees.  A 
masked  and  murderous  fire  was  opened  upon  them  from  behind  the  trees. 
In  vain  he  charged  an  invisible  enemy  with  the  bayonet.  He  was  mortally 
wounded,  his  force  defeated,  and  the  greater  portion  slain.  Here  Gen- 
eral Washington  developed  the  first  traits  of  his  military  character.  Two 
horses  were  killed  under  him,  and  four  balls  passed  through  his  coat. 
Calm  and  self  possessed,  the  shield  of  providence  seemed  to  be  cast  over 
him.  It  was  owing  to  his  skill  and  management,  that  any  part  of  Brad- 
dock’s  force  was  saved. 

At  this  time  the  eventful  victory  of  Wolfe  upon  the  heights  of  Abraham 
settled  the  momentous  question,  which  of  the  nations,  France  or  England, 
should  have  the  ascendency  in  the  future  destinies  of  this  continent. 
Never  were  more  eventful  consequences  decided  by  the  issue  of  one 
combat. 

But  the  French,  though  subdued  in  Canada,  still  retained  the  ascend- 
ency of  their  influence  over  the  savages.  Instigated  by  them,  the  Chero- 
kees  slaughtered  the  English  settlers  and  traders  upon  the  frontiers  of 
the  Carolinas.  The  provincials,  to  the  number  of  twelve  hundred, 
marched  into  the  country  of  the  Cherokees,  and  inflicted  an  ample 
vengeance. 

The  Indians  in  their  turn  attacked  Fort  Loudon  in  Tennessee.  It 
surrendered  to  them*  and  they  violated  the  convention,  by  a ruthless  and 
indiscriminate  murder  of  men,  women  and  children.  Some  of  the  males 
were  burned  at  a slow  fire,  into  which  their  children  were  thrown ; and 
the  mothers  wrere  carried  into  a captivity  worse  than  death. 

The  war  between  Great  Britain,  France  and  Spain  closed  in  1763. 
Canada  was  ceded  to  Great  Britain,  and  Louisiana  to  Spain.  The  Span- 
ish commenced  their  rule  in  that  country  by  an  act  of  wanton  and  gratu- 
itous cruelty,  executing  six  distinguished  Louisianians,  who  had  opposed 
the  Spanish  occupation  of  the  government,  and  sending  six  others  to  the 
dungeons  of  Havanna. 

By  this  treaty  Florida  had  been  ceded  by  Spain  to  the  English.  A 
British  regiment,  descending  the  Mississippi,  to  take  possession  of  the 
ceded  territory,  was  attacked  by  the  Tunica  Indians,  near  the  site  of 
Fort  Adams ; Major  Loftus,  the  commander,  was  killed,  and  most  of  the 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


169 


regiment  slain.  This  disaster  is  commemorated  by  giving  his  name  to 

a 

the  conspicuous  heights  on  the  Mississippi,  where  he  fell. 

An  interval  of  nine  years  of  peace,  as  regarded  the  quarrels  of  the 
different  European  colonists,  succeeded.  During  this  peace,  the  western 
Indians,  if  they  did  not  share  it,  were  in  some  degree  restrained  in  the 
extent  of  their  assaults  and  ravages;  and  the  western  forests  and  prairies 
were  peopling  in  silence  by  Europeans,  or  their  descendants. 

At  the  close  of  this  interval,  commenced  the  war  of  the  American 
revolution.  The  French  and  Spanish,  in  these  remote  colonies,  were 
soon  drawn  into  the  contest.  The  Spanish,  as  the  allies  of  the  French, 
made  their  first  effort  against  the  British  Colony  of  Florida,  their  ancient 
possession. 

Galvez,  the  Spanish  governor  of  Louisiana,  assailed  Baton  Rouge  with 
two  thousand  three  hundred  men,  aided  by  battering  cannon.  The  British 
garrison  of  five  hundred  men  was  obliged  to  surrender.  Flushed  by  this 
success,  in  1780  he  fitted  out  a naval  expedition  against  Mobile,  which 
also  surrendered  to  his  forces. 

A formidable  Spanish  fleet,  with  twelve  thousand  troops  on  board,  soon 
after  sailed  from  Cuba,  to  attempt  the  recapture  of  the  whole  province 
of  Florida ; and,  although  the  fleet  experienced  the  most  signal  disasters 
from  sickness  and  storms,  Pensacola  was  taken  from  the  British,  and  the 
whole  province  was  conquered. 

Upper  Louisiana  was  little  affected  by  this  war,  until  near  its  close. 
In  1780  an  expedition  of  English  and  Indians  from  Canada  by  way  of 
the  lakes  assailed  the  peaceful  French  establishments  in  Missouri.  St. 
Louis  was  taken,  sixty  of  the  inhabitants  slain,  and  thirty  made  prisoners. 
The  French  of  that  vicinity  still  distinguish  that  disastrous  event  by  the 
era  of  Vannee  du  coup. 

They  were  delivered  from  their  invaders  by  a respectable  force  under 
the  command  of  the  gallant  American  General  Clark.  The  expedition 
under  this  veteran  commander  had  been  fitted  out  chiefly  by  Virginia,  and 
ordered  into  these  distant  regions  to  repel  the  invasion  of  the  English 
and  Indians  as  far  as  possible  from  her  frontiers,  which  were  supposed  to 
be  the  whole  western  country.  General  Clark  descended  the  Ohio  with 
a regiment  of  infantry  and  a troop  of  cavalry.  Part  of  his  force  marched 
by  land  from  Louisville,  and  in  the  endurance  of  incredible  hardships, 
advanced  through  the  swamps  and  ices  of  the  drowned  lands  of  the 
Wabash,  and  met  the  other  part  of  the  force,  that  had  made  its  way  down 
tire  Ohio  and  up  the  Wabash  by  water,  before  Vincennes,  which  was  in 
possession  of  a considerable  British  force.  That  force,  completely  sur- 
prised, surrendered  at  discretion,  and  suffered  a severe  retaliation  for 


22 


170 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


their  cruelties.  General  Clark  unkennelled  the  savages  from  their  lurk- 
ing places  in  these  quarters,  and  carried  the  American  standard  in 
triumph  to  the  Mississippi.  The  invading  forces  sent  from  Canada 
against  St.  Louis,  shrunk  from  conflict  with  the  American  General,  dis- 
persed and  made  their  way  back  as  they  could,  to  Canada. 

In  1780  on  the  mountains,  that  separate  North  Carolina  from  Tennes- 
see, was  fought  the  gallant  battle  of  King’s  Mountain,  in  which  the 
backwoods  men  of  Kentucky  and  Tennessee  had  so  glorious  a share. 
Few  actions  on  record  have  been  more  fiercely  contested.  The  British 
repeatedly  charged  the  mountaineers  with  fixed  bayonets.  Ferguson, 
the  British  commander,  was  slain.  The  enemy  left  one  hundred  and  fifty 
on  the  field;  six  hundred  and  ten  were  made  prisoners,  and  fifteen  hun- 
dred stand  of  arms  were  taken.  Only  four  hundre.d  and  forty  of  the  foe 
escaped.  Colonels  McDowell,  Cambell,  Shelby,  Sevier,  in  a word,  every 
soldier  and  officer  gained  in  that  battle  imperishable  honor.  No  victory 
could  have  had  a more  auspicious  influence  upon  the  incipient  settlements 
in  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  The  peace  of  1783  left  the  country  on 
the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  free  from  ail  other  conflicts,  but  the  unremitting 
hostility  of  the  savages. 

Relieved  from  one  form  of  apprehension,  the  western  settlers  soon 
met  another.  The  right  to  navigate  the  Mississippi,  the  great  wes- 
tern canal  of  export  and  impork  v.  as  refused  to  the  Americans  by  the 
Spanish  authorities  of  Louisiana.  This  became  a fruitful  source  of 
dispute  and  re-crimination.  The  inhabitants  of  Kentucky  and  Tennes- 
see, jealous  of  their  rights,  and  not  satisfied  with  the  efforts  of  Congress 
to  procure  them  redress,  seemed  strongly  disposed  to  take  justice  into 
their  own  hands.  There  appears  to  have  been  no  less  than  five  distinct 
parties  among  them  at  this  time. 

The  first  advocated  an  independent  government  in  the  west,  and  a 
commercial  treaty  with  Spain.  The  second  proposed  to  annex  Kentucky 
to  Louisiana.  This  party  was  fostered  by  Spanish  intrigue  and  gold. 
The  third  proposed  to  make  war  with  Spain,  and  seize  Louisiana.  A 
fourth  party  sustained  the  American  confederation,  and  proposed  to 
extort  the  free  navigation  of  the  Mississippi  by  the  menace  of  an  invasion 
of  Louisiana.  The  fifth  wished  Louisiana  to  return  under  French  sway, 
and  that  Kentucky  should  make  part  of  it. 

The  fires  of  discord  between  these  parties  were  fanned  by  the  English, 
Spanish  and  French,  according  to  their  respective  views.  But  a new 
element  of  political  influence  was  beginning  to  be  felt.  It  was  the  course, 
alike  wise,  firm  and  conciliating,  of  the  federal  government,  which  shortly 
merged  all  these  interests  in  the  overwhelming  preponderance  of  genuine 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


171 


American  loyalty.  The  Spanish  treaty  of  1795  was  the  result,  which, 
after  a series  of  altercations  and  difficulties  by  the  Spanish  commissioner, 
went  into  quiet  effect  in  1798. 

The  western  Indians  had  generally  taken  part  with  Great  Britain  in 
the  war  of  the  revolution.  Alarmed  at  the  flood  of  immigration,  which 
poured  into  the  western  country  on  the  return  of  peace,  they  still  kept 
up  the  war  on  their  own  account.  The  southern  Indians,  under 
McGdlivsay,  were  quieted  by  a treaty;  but  the  northern  Indians 
stubbornly  resisted  all  efforts  at  pacification.  General  Harmar  was  sent 
against  them  with  a considerable  force.  Some  hard  lighting  with  doubt- 
ful success  succeeded. 

Next  year  General  St.  Clair  was  sent  against  them,  with  a still  larger 
force.  The  Indians  attacked  him,  November  1792,  not  far  from  the 
Miami  villages.  A severe  and  fatal  battle  for  the  Americans  ensued. 
They  were  completely  routed,  and  more  than  six  hundred  men,  including 
thirty  eight  officers  slain.  The  wounded,  many  of  whom  died,  exceeded 
two  hundred  and  sixty.  It  was  the  severest  disaster,  which  had  befallen 
the  American  arms  in  the  west.  It  gave  new  extent  and  energy  to  the 
scalping  knife.  In  the  investigation  of  this  bloody  affair,  which  took 
place  before  Congress,  it  was  proved,  that  between  1783  and  1790,  fifteen 
hundred  inhabitants  of  Kentucky  had  been  massacred,  or  made  prisoners 
by  the  Indians ; and  an  equal  number  on  the  frontiers  of  Pennsylvania 
and  Virginia,  and  that  one  hundred  and  twenty  persons  had  been  killed, 
or  made  prisoners,  a number  of  whom  had  been  burned  at  the  stake, 
during  thirty  days,  in  which  the  Indians  were  proposing  to  make  a treaty. 

This  disaster  and  these  representations  effectually  aroused  the  people. 
General  Wayne  was  sent  against  the  Indians.  His  collected  force  ex- 
ceeded three  thousand  men.  He  attacked  the  combined  Indians,  and 
gained  a memorable  and  complete  victory.  The  fugitives  took  shelter 
under  the  guns  of  a British  fort.  General  Wayne  justly  treated  the 
commander  of  the  fort,  and  the  traders  sheltered  in  it,  who  had  obviously 
supplied  the  Indians  with  arms,  provisions  and  amunition,  with  very  little 
ceremony,  burning  their  stores  and  their  corn,  and  driving  them  to  the 
security  of  the  range  of  their  own  guns.  In  August  1792,  a general 
treaty  with  the  Indians  was  concluded,  and  the  desolating  horrors  of  Indian 
warfare  were  brought  to  an  end. 

This  peace,  so  auspicious  to  the  progress  of  the  West,  was  soon 
followed  by  internal  dissentions.  The  first  extention  of  the  federal  sway 
was  regarded  with  suspicion  in  various  parts  of  the  union.  Congress 
had  passed  a law  imposing  duties  on  spirits  distilled  in  the  United  States. 

This  law  was  peculiarly  obnoxious  to  the  people  of  west  Pennsylvania. 
A decided  and  systematic  opposition  to  government  was  organized. 


in 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY* 


Civil  processes  instituted  under  that  government  were  resisted.  The 
marshal  at  Pittsburgh  and  General  Neville,  in  whose  house  he  took 
shelter,  were  seized,  and  otherwise  treated  with  violence,  to  escape  which, 
they  made  their  retreat  down  the  Ohio. 

The  government  conducted  with  deliberate  firmness.  After  all  efforts 
at  conciliation  had  been  exhausted,  a strong  force  was  sent  over  the 
mountains  commanded  by  the  Governors  of  Virginia,  Pennsylvania  and 
New  Jersey.  The  unanimity  of  the  nation,  and  the  greatness  of  the 
force  prevented  the  effusion  of  blood.  The  insurgents  submitted  with- 
out resistance.  A few  were  arrested,  and  one  person,  wfio  had  rendered 
himself  peculiarly  obnoxious  by  his  violence,  escaped. 

The  western  country  meanwhile  continued  to  fill  with  immigrants  with 
a rapidity  unparalleled  in  the  annals  of  any  other  country.  The  wood- 
man’s axe  was  heard  in  innumerable  places  in  the  forest.  Commencing 
towns  and  villages  sprung  up  among  the  deadened  trees  on  every  side. 
The  surplus  produce  of  the  west  began  to  descend  the  Ohio  and  Missis- 
sippi, in  all  the  whimsical  varieties  of  boats,  that  float  on  those  streams. 
At  frequent  intervals  occasional  murders  of  the  people  on  the  frontiers 
continued  to  occur,  and  keep  alive  the  smothered  feelings  of  hatred  and 
revenge,  which  existed  between  the  two  races.  But  the  flood  of  immi- 
gration still  continued  to  flow  on,  unchecked  by  these  local  causes  of 
alarm. 

War  raged  again  in  Europe.  France,  Spain  and  England  preyed 
upon  our  commerce.  Spain,  beside  joining  in  the  general  plunder,  shut 
the  port  of  New  Orleans  against  us.  Twelve  regiments  were  added  to 
our  army.  Three  of  the  old  regiments  were  ordered  to  a point  near  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  and  other  demonstrations  of  a purpose  to  redress  our 
wrongs  by  force  were  made. 

Early  in  the  administration  of  Jefferson,  Spain  restored  us  the  right  of 
deposit  at  New  Orleans,  and  informed  us  at  the  same  time,  that  she  had;, 
by  a treaty  of  1801,  ceded  Louisiana  to  the  government  of  France, 
which  had  become  a republic.  A French  army  which  had  been  appointed 
avowedly  for  the  purpose  of  occupying  Louisiana,  was  blockaded  in  a 
Dutch  port  by  a British  squadron.  France  wanted  money,  more  than 
colonies,  which  she  had  no  navy  to  occupy  or  defend ; and  by  the  treaty 
of  April  1803,  in  consideration  of  fifteen  millions  of  dollars,  she  ceded 
Louisiana  to  the  United  States.  The  immense  valley  of  the  Mississippi, 
in  its  whole  extent,  became  ours,  opening  a new  era  to  the  West,  which 
we  trust  will  be  dear  to  freedom  as  long  as  the  Mississippi  shall  roll 
to  the  sea. 

The  famous  expedition  of  Burr  occurred  in  1806-7.  He  descended 
the  Mississippi  early  in  January  of  the  latter  year  with  fourteen  boats, 


civil  iiistory- 


173 


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umd  from  eighty  to  one  hundred  men.  Being  apprised,  that  his  move- 
ments were  viewed  with  suspicion,  he  gave  bonds  to  the  authorities  of 
the  Mississippi  territory,  which,  however,  he  soon  left,  and  a reward  of 
two  thousand  dollars  was  offered  for  his  apprehension.  The  professed 
object  of  this  mad  expedition  was  to  occupy  and  settle  a large  purchase 
of  lands  on  the  Washita. 

His  real  purpose,  founded  on  erroneous  views  of  the  disloyalty  of  the 
West,  was  probably,  to  detach  it  from  the  confederacy,  and  establish  an 
empire  for  himself.  Some  persons  were  arrested,  as  accomplices  with 
Burr,  among  whom  were  Tollman  and  Ogden.  Burr  himself  was  after- 
wards tried,  and  acquitted. 

The  year  1812  was  memorable,  as  the  era  of  the  first  successful  use  of 
Steam  boats  on  the  western  waters.  At  the  commencement  of  the  winter 
the  steam  boat  New  Orleans,  carrying  between  three  and  four  hundred 
tons,  descended  from  Pittsburgh  to  New  Orleans  in  two  hundred  and 
fifty-nine  hours.  The  first  experiment  was  extremely  fortunate,  and, 
comparing  this  passage  with  that  of  seventy-five  days  for  the  descent  of 
a flat  boat  from  the  same  place,  presented  the  advantages  of  steam  navi- 
gation in  strong  contrast.  Every  reflecting  person  could  easily  divine, 
what  an  immense  bearing  this  wonderful  invention  of  steam  boats  would 
have  upon  the  future  growth  and  prosperity  of  the  West.  The  census  of 
1810  gave  the  West  nearly  a million  of  inhabitants,  about  eight  times 
the  number  of  1799. 

It  has  been  seen,  that  our  commerce  had  been  plundered  by  England, 
France  and  Spain,  Our  political  relations  with  the  two  former  powers 
had  been  for  some  time  on  a precarious  footing.  It  was  a question  dis- 
cussed in  Congress  with  no  little  asperity,  on  which  of  these  powers  we 
should  make  war,  to  redress  our  wrongs.  It  was  ultimately  determined 
to  select  England,  as  having  inflicted  the  most  palpable  injuries,  and  as 
being  most  accessible  in  her  colonial  possessions.  For  some  time  her 
ancient  influence  with  the  Indians  on  our  northern  and  western  frontiers 
had  been  gathering  strength  against  us.  The  long  suppressed  flame  burst 
forth  at  length  in  the  battle  of  Tippicanoe.  At  the  close  of  1811  the 
former  scenes  of  savage  assault  and  murder  along  the  frontier  settlements 
were  renewed  with  incessant  incursions  and  the  murder  of  whole  fami- 
lies. Beside  the  usual  instigation  and  influence  of  British  traders  the 
famous  Shawnese  prophet  appealed  to  their  bloody  superstitions  to  incite 
them  to  general  league  against  us.  Generals  Harrison  and  Boyd  marched 
against  them  with  some  militia  and  a regiment  of  regular  troops.  In  thirty 
days  they  arrived  in  the  vicinity  of  the  prophet’s  town.  Soon  afterwards, 
they  weie  attacked  in  the  night  by  the  Indians.  It  was  a scene  of  confusion 
and  blood.  But  the  prompt  and  judicious  movements  of  general  Harri- 


174 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


son  and  the  gallant  charge  of  the  regular  troops,  soon  cleared  the  camp  of 
the  assailants.  In  this  hurried  and  bloody  affair  the  Americans  lost  188 
men  killed  and  wounded.  Among  the  slain  were  some  officers  of  great 
bravery  and  merit.  The  Indian  loss  was  supposed  have  been  equal. 

In  June  1812,  war  was  declared  by  the  United  States  against  Great 
Britain.  An  army  of  2500  men,  consisting  of  regulars  and  Ohio  volun- 
teers collected  at  Detroit  under  the  command  of  General  Hull.  After  a 
series  of  skirmishes  honorable  to  Colonels  Cass  and  Miller,  General  Hull 
surrendered  his  whole  force,  Detroit  and  the  territory  of  Michigan  to  the 
British  General  Brock.  Never  was  event  more  prolific  of  shame,  dis- 
grace and  disaster. 

The  Indians  were  at  once  on  the  alert  in  hostility  to  our  country  from 
the  lakes  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  Colonel  Newman  of  the  Georgia  volun 
teers  distinguished  himself  in  a desperate  and  gallant  struggle  with  the 
Seminole  Indians  on  the  Georgia  frontier. 

About  this  time  the  Creeks  and  Seminoles  assaulted  and  took  Fort 
Mimms  on  tie  Tensa  in  Mississippi.  It  was  commanded  by  Major 
Beasly  with  150  men.  Three  hundred  persons,  more  than  half  women 
and  children  were  massacred.  Never  was  savage  cruelty  more  atrocious 
and  unsparing.  But  seventeen  persons  escaped.  General  Jackson, 
nobly  sustained  by  Generals  Coffee  and  Carroll,  was  ordered  into  the 
Creek  country.  Encountering  disaffection,  desertion,  want  of  provisions, 
and  innumerable  difficulties  of  every  sort,  he  succeeded  in  defeating  and 
humbling  them  to  the  sure  submission  of  fear  and  inability  of  further  an- 
noyance. The  victories  over  the  Creeks  were  named  from  the  places, 
where  the  battles  were  fought,  Tallushatchee,  Talladega,  Emuckfaw,  and 
Tahopeka.  The  last  victory  was  most  terribly  decisive.  The  Indians 
left  557  dead;  and  only  four  men,  along  with  300  women  and  children 
were  taken  prisoners.  Humanity  recoils  from  the  contemplation  of  the 
misery  and  ruin  inflicted  upon  this  fierce  and  deluded  people.  But  it 
must  be  remembered,  that  they  had  been  incurring  this  severe  reckoning 
by  cruelties  and  murders  for  twenty  years,  crowned  with  the  horrors  of 
Fort  Mimms.  The  meed  of  unshrinking  perseverance,  the  most  cool  and 
determined  bravery,  unflinching  patriotism,  and  able  management  in  the 
prosecution  of  this  war  must  be  awarded  to  General  Jackson. 

Meanwhile,  after  the  fall  of  Detroit,  savage  vengeance  raged  with  un- 
relenting fury  along  the  whole  lake  frontier.  Various  successful  incur-' 
sions  were  made  in  retaliation,  in  which  the  Indians  in  their  turn 
experienced  deserved  chastisement.  But  the  united  forces  of  the  Brit- 
ish and  Indians,  were  successful  in  defeating  general  Winchester,  who 
was  captured  with  some  of  his  officers  in  the  early  part  of  the  action. 
After  a severe  engagement,  the  remainder  of  the  American  troops, 


CIVIL  HISTOKY, 


175 

between  five  and  six  hundred,  surrendered.  The  Indians  violated  the 
terms  of  the  surrender,  and  a general  and  horrible  massacre  ensued,  to  the 
perpetual  infamy  of  General  Proctor,  and  his  forces,  who  conducted  on 
this  occasion,  with  little  more  humanity  and  good  faith,  than  the  savages 
themselves.  This  bloody  affair  is  known  in  the  west  by  the  name  of  the 
* massacre  of  the  Raisin.’ 

During  the  memorable  siege  of  Fort  Meigs  by  the  British  and  Indians, 
the  besiegers  were  assailed  by  Colonel  Dudley  who  arrived,  commanding 
a brigade  of  Kentucky  recruits.  The  enemy  fled,  and  the  ardor  of  these 
brave  men  carried  them  too  far  in  the  pursuit.  They  fell  into  an  ambus- 
cade, and  suffered  severely.  A sortie  from  the  Fort,  intended  as  a 
diversion,  in  favor  of  the  Kentucky  force,  was  assailed  by  four  times  its 
number;  and  would  have  been  cut  off,  but  for  the  gallantry  of  lieutenant 
Gwynne,  who  opportunely  charged  the  Indians,  and  saved  the  detach- 
ment. The  siege  was  soon  after  raised.  The  American  loss,  during  the 
thirteen  days,  which  it  lasted,  was  270  killed  and  wounded. 

At  this  time  Major  Croghan  gained  imperishable  honor  by  his  intrepid 
defence  of  Fort  Stephenson.  With  only  160  men  he  was  besieged  by 
500  regulars  and  700  Indians  under  the  command  of  general  Proctor. 
After  an  unavailing  attempt  to  storm  the  Fort,  the  besiegers  decamped, 
having  lost  150  men  in  the  attempt. 

The  brilliant  and  complete  victory  of  the  gallant  Perry  over  the  Brit- 
ish fleet  on  lake  Erie  ensued,  and  gave  the  American  cause  the  inestima- 
ble advantage  of  the  complete  command  of  the  lake.  The  striking  array 
of  a British  and  American  fleet  was  seen  from  the  shores  of  Ohio,  round- 
ing to  the  shore  to  transport  the  American  troops  to  the  invasion  of  the 
Canadian  shore.  These  troops  were  landed  from  sixteen  vessels  and 
one  thousand  boats  in  perfect  order  a league  below  Malden.  It  was  an 
incident  equally  novel,  cheering  and  impressive.  Malden  and  Amherts* 
burg  were  successively  occupied.  The  savages  were  unkennelled  from 
their  dens,  where  they  had  been  retained,  and  unleashed ; and  where  they 
had  returned,  and  treasured  their  horrid  trophies  of  human  scalps. 
Scarcely  a volunteer  entered  these  odious  places,  but  had  suffered  in  his 
person,  property,  relations  or  friends  by  the  assaults  and  massacres  here 
instigated.  To  show  the  strongest  possible  contrast  to  the  deportment  of 
the  enemy  at  the  Raisin,  private  property,  houses  and  persons  were  spared, 
not  excepting  the  house  of  the  renegado,  Colonel  Elliot. 

An  engagement  followed  between  the  American  army  commanded  by 
General  Harrison,  and  the  British  and  Indians  under  General  Proctor 
and  Tecumseh.  The  American  mounted  troops  dashed  through  the  ene- 
my’s centre,  producing  the  immediate  surrender  of  472  men  and  their 
officers.  General  Proctor  escaped  by  the  speed  of  his  horse. 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


17$ 

The  Indians  contested  the  battle  with  much  more  pertinacity,  than 
their  British  allies.  The  renowned  Tecumseh  put  forth  all  his  powers; 
but  after  a fierce  contest,  the  savages  were  defeated;  and  Tecumseh 
was  slain,  it  is  commonly  reported  by  Colonel  Johnson,  in  personal 
contest. 

Among  the  singular  trophies  of  this  victory  were  several  pieces  of  brass 
cannon,  which  had  been  taken  from  Burgoyne  at  Saratoga,  surrendered 
by  General  Hull  with  Detroit,  and  now  returned  to  the  Americans  again. 
No  event  in  this  war  had  been  so  directly  auspicious  to  the  western 
country,  as  this  victory.  Michigan  was  recovered ; and  the  British  force 
in  upper  Canada  broken  down.  The  spirit  and  confidence  of  the  north- 
ern savages  were  quelled;  and  the  people  along  the  wide  western  frontier 
were  relieved  from  their  apprehensions,  and  returned  in  security  and 
peace  to  their  accustomed  habitations. 

Scarcely  had  the  Creeks  been  brought  to  terms  in  the  south,  before 
the  southern  people  were  alarmed  with  the  more  formidable  apprehensions 
of  British  invasion.  General  Jackson  marched  with  his  forces  to  Pensa- 
cola, wdiich  was  already  in  the  occupation  of  the  British..  The  British 
failed  in  an  obstinate  naval  attack  upon  Fort  Bowyer  in  Mobile  bay ; and 
were  defeated  with  the  loss  of  230  men  killed  and  wounded. 

The  British  forces  then  retired  to  Pensacola.  That  town  and  Barran- 
cas were  assaulted,  and  taken,  and  the  British  completely  dislodged  from 
all  the  posts  upon  that  shore.  From  these  achievements  General  Jackson 
marched  to  New  Orleans,  and  put  forth  all  his  energy  and  decision  in 
collecting  forces,  and  placing  Louisiana  in  the  best  possible  state  of 
defence. 

A well  contested  engagement  took  place  between  an  attack  of  British 
barges,  and  the  small  American  naval  force,  of  gun  boats  near  the  Rigo- 
let  or  pass  from  lake  Borgne  into  lake  Ponchartrain.  The  bravery  of 
the  Americans  was  never  more  honorably  conspicuous;  though  the 
American  gun  boats  were  captured  by  an  overwhelming  force.  The 
British  loss  in  the  action  far  exceeded  ours. 

The  British  army,  which  had  been  hovering  on  the  gulf  shore,  'debark- 
ed safely  at  Bayou  Bienvenu,  fifteen  miles  southeast  of  New  Orleans. 
General  Jackson  resolved  to  give  them  battle.  His  recent  recruits  from 
the  upper  country  were  promptly  on  the  field  of  battle.  Commodore 
Patterson  in  the  schooner  Caroline  opened  a destructive  fire  upon  them. 
After  a warm  action,"  necessarily  involved  in  much  confusion  from  the 
late  hour,  in  which  it  was  commenced,  and  from  the  ignorance  of  both 
forces  of  the  ground,  and  of  each  others  positions,  the  British  thrice 
assailed,  and  beaten,  retired  a mile.  Satisfied  with  the  omen,  and  this 
first  result  ot  what  the  British  had  to  expect  from  us,  and  aware  that  the 


CIVIL  HISTORY* 


177 


British  were  double  our  numbers,  General  Jackson  recalled  his  irrops  to 
their  position.  Our  loss  was  139  killed  and,  wounded,  and  74  pris- 
oners. The  killed,  wounded  and  prisoners  of  the  enemy  amounted  to 
400.  Soon  after,  we  had  the  misfortune  to  lose  the  schooner,  which 
had  so  severely  annoyed  the  British. 

Fortunately  before  the  great  battle  of  the  eighth  of  January,  the  long 
expected  reinforcement  Irom  Kentucky,  amounting  to  2250  men,  arrived 
at  our  camp.  The  eighth  of  January  dawned,  and  the  British  commenced 
upon  our  line  one  of  the  most  obstinate  attacks  on  military  record.  They 
were  defeated  with  prodigious  slaughter.  Their  killed,  wounded  and 
prisoners  exceeded  2600  men.  Although  the  British  had  been  success- 
ful in  an  attack  upon  the  American  troops  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the 
river,  compelling  the  American  force  under  General  Morgan  to  retreat, 
having  lost  their  Generals  Packingham,  Gibbs  and  Keane,  they  felt  no 
disposition  longer  to  contest  the  possession  of  a soil,  that  had  been  so  fatal 
to  them,  and  soon  after  embarked  in  their  fleet. 

It  may  well  be  supposed  that  a scene  of  exultation,  past  the  power  of 
words  to  describe,  ensued  in  the  camp,  and  in  New  Orleans.  The  brave 
troops  of  the  west  returned  to  their  homes  covered  with  imperishable 
honors,  to  hand  down  the  story  of  their  achievements  to  their  children. 

In  making  this  glorious  defence  of  the, shores  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico, 
and  in  gaining  these  victories,  General  Jackson  was  obliged  to  resort  to 
the  strong  measures  of  military  decision  and  promptness.  We  have  not 
space,  in  which  to  array  the  innumerable  difficulties,  he  had  to  encoun- 
ter from  a country,  but  recently  accustomed  to  American  rule,  peopled 
to  a considerable  degree  with  inhabitants  of  another  language  and  na- 
tion, the  want  of  arms,  the  numercial  weakness  of  his  force,  and  his 
great  distance  from  adequate  reinforcements  and  supplies.  The  brevity 
of  our  sketch  accords  with  our  inclination  in  excluding  us  from  any  dis- 
cussion of  the  necessity  of  many  of  the  measures,  to  which  he  had 
resorted ; and  from  questioning  the  grounds  of  a reaction  of  public  feel- 
ing, which  occurred  on  the  return  of  tranquillity.  His  conduct  in 
proclaiming  martial  law,  and  suspending  the  privilege  of  habeas  corpus , 
removing  some  suspected  citizens,  and  punishing  some  deserters  with 
the  last  rigor  of  martial  law,  underwent  a severe  investigation,  at  the  time, 
an  investigation  which  subsequent  circumstances  have  renewed  with  in- 
creased asperity. 

At  this  day,  however  different  may  be  the  estimate  of  the  political 
character  of  general  Jackson,  no  one  can  fail  to  do  justice  to  his  wisdom, 
bravery  and  good  conduct  in  the  prosecution  of  this  campaign.  No  one 
can  fail  to  admit,  that  the  emergencies  of  the  case  called  for  such  a 
neral,  and  that  weak  and  vacillating  measures  could  scarcely  have  failed 

23 


178 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY® 


to  have  lost  the  country.  On  the  13th  of  the  month,  peace  was  officially 
announced  in  the  camp.  On  the  24th,  General  Jackson  was  prosecuted 
for  contempt  of  court  at  the  suit  of  Judge  Hall,  and  was  cast  in  a fine  of  a 
thousand  dollars.  General  feeling  in  view  of  the  sentence  was  mani- 
fested by  the  citizens.  It  was  proposed  to  give  publicity  to  that  feeling 
by  paying  the  fine  by  voluntary  contribution.  It  was  no  sooner  meditated 
than  done.  So  numerous  were  the  citizens,  who  desired  to  contribute, 
that  the  entire  sum  was  raised  in  a few  minutes.  The  general,  under- 
standing what  was  agitated,  sought  the  marshal,  paid  the  fine,  and 
avoided  an  obligation,  which  his  feelings  would  not  allow  him  to  incur. 
Previous  to  breaking  up  his  camp,  he  issued  an  impressive  and  affec- 
tionate address  to  his  brave  companions  in  arms,  and  was  soon  on  his 
way  to  his  home.  Grateful  and  affectionate  honors  awaited  him  every 
where,  and  most  of  all  at  home,  where  he  was  welcomed  by  a reception 
from  his  fellow  citizens,  that  must  have  been  more  delightful,  than  all  his 
previous  triumphs. 

The  close  of  the  war,  as  might  be  expected  produced  a general  pacifi- 
cation of  the  savages  on  our  whole  frontier.  It  was  obvious  to  intellects 
less  vigorous  than  theirs,  that  if  they  had  the  worst  of  the  contest,  when 
aided  by  all  the  power  of  Britain  and  the  countenance  of  the  Spanish, 
they  could  have  little  hope,  of  continuing  the  contest  with  us  single 
handed.  Profound  peace  was  soon  restored  to  all  our  borders,  from  the 
northeast  to  the  southwest  frontier.  The  tide  of  immigration  which  had 
been  arrested  during  the  war,  set  more  strongly  towards  the  western 
country  for  having  been  so  long  kept  back.  Shoals  of  immigrants  were 
seen  on  all  the  great  roads  leading  in  that  direction.  Oleanne,  Pittsburgh, 
Brownsville,  Wheeling,  Nashville,  Cincinnati,  and  St.  Louis  overflowed 
with  them.  Ohio  and  Indiana  beheld  thousands  of  new  cabins  spring  up 
in  their  forests.  On  the  borders  of  the  solitary  prairies  of  Illinois  and 
Missouri,  smokes  were  seen  streaming  aloft  from  the  dwellings  of  recent 
settlers.  The  settlements  which  had  been  broken  up  during  the  war, 
were  re-peopled,  and  many  immigrants  returned  again  to  the  very  cabins, 
which  they  had  occupied  before  the  war.  Boon’s-lick  and  Salt  river,  in 
Missouri,  were  the  grand  points  of  immigration,  as  were  the  Sangama 
and  the  upper  courses  of  the  Kaskaskias,  in  Illinois.  In  the  south,  Ala- 
bama filled  with  new  habitations,  and  the  current,  not  arrested  by  the 
Mississippi,  set  over  its  banks,  to  White  river,  Arkansas,  and  Louisiana, 
west  of  that  river.  The  wandering  propensity  of  the  American  people 
carried  hundreds  even  beyond  our  territorial  limits  into  the  Spanish 
country. — Wagons,  servants,  cattle,  sheep,  swine,  horses,  and  dogs,  were 
seen  passing  with  the  settlers,  bound  to  immense  distances  up  the  long 
rivers.  To  fix  an  hundred  miles  from  another  settler  was  deemed  no  in- 


convenience, 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


179 


This  flood  of  immigrants  of  course  increased  the  amount  of  transport, 
and  gave  new  impulse  to  enterprise  of  every  sort.  Lands  rose  above  their 
value,  and  speculation  in  them  became  a raging  epidemic.  Money,  put 
in  circulation  by  the  sale  of  lands,  abounded  in  the  country.  Town 
making,  steam  boat  building, — in  short,  every  species  of  speculation  was 
carried  to  a ruinous  excess.  Mercantile  importations  filled  the  country 
with  foreign  goods.  There  were  no  reasonable  foundations  to  the  schemes 
and  no  limits  to  the  extravagance  of  the  people.  To  give  a more  fatal 
extension  and  efficacy  to  the  mania  of  speculation,  banks  were  multiplied 
in  all  the  little  towns  and  villages  of  the  West,  whose  spurious  paper,  not 
predicated  on  banking  principles,  nor  based  upon  capital,  answered  the 
turn  of  speculation,  as  long  as  the  excitement  of  confidence  lasted.  The 
consequence  of  all  this  was,  that  lands  rose  to  double  and  triple  their 
natural  value,  and  were  bought  up  by  speculators.  One  good  effect  re- 
sulted from  the  general  mischief.  Improvements,  which  would  never 
have  been  contemplated,  in  another  state -of  things,  multiplied.  Towns 
were  built  up  with  good  and  permanent  houses.  In  three  years  from  the 
close  of  the  war,  things  had  received  a new  face  along  the  great  water 
courses,  and  in  all  the  favorable  points  of  the  interior. 

New  states  and  territories  grew  out  of  this  order  of  things,  like  the 
prophet’s  gourd.  In  building  up  legislation  and  municipal  order,  the 
scramble  of  strangers  recently  brought  in  contiguity,  for  the  new  offices, 
introduced  much  bustle  and  quarrelling.  All  the  legislators  were  not 
Solons.  A great  many  forward  and  plunging  young  men,  whose  only 
qualifications  for  their  great  work,  were  vanity  and  confidence,  composed 
the  legislatures.  Of  course  a thousand  monstrous  projects  were  hatched. 
The  teaching  of  the  past  history  and  experience,  were  not  the  guides  of 
these  confident  legislators.  The  evils,  that  soon  resulted  from  such 
legislation,  gradually  worked  their  own  cure.  The  people  were  slow  to 
learn ; but  in  most  of  the  states  and  territories,  after  taking  lessons  for 
two  or  three  years,  they  did  learn ; and  returned  to  the  safe  and  ancient 
track  of  history,  example  and  experience. 

Meanwhile,  this  unnatural  state  of  things  could  not  last  long.  The 
tide  began  to  ebb,  and  things  to  settle  to  their  natural  level.  The  first 
indication  of  this  change  was,  the  failure  of  the  banks,  at  first  as  rare  oc- 
currences; but  these  failures  soon  become  so  numerous  and  common, 
that  the  paper,  except  of  the  banks  of  Louisiana,  Mississippi,  and  a very 
few  of  the  interior  banks,  became  as  useless  as  any  other  wrapping  paper. 
We  have  not  the  data  for  calculating  the  amount  of  loss  in  the  western 
country ; and  patience  and  moderation  of  feeling  would  fail  us,  in  con- 
templating the  enormous  mischiefs  of  legislative  swindling.  An  incon- 
ceivable quantity  of  paper  perished,  not  in  the  hands  of  the  speculators, 


180 


MISSISSIPPI  V ALLEY. 


and  those,  who  had  been  efficient  in  generating  it ; for  they  foresaw  the 
approaching  min,  and  passed  the  spurious  paper  away,  before  the  bubble 
of  confidence,  on  which  it  was  predicated,  burst.  It  finally  rested,  and 
perished  in  the  hands  of  farmers  and  mechanics, — the  honest  and  the 
useful  members  of  the  community,  who  had  fairly  earned  the  value  of  the 
money.  May  it  be  a perpetual  warning  to  the  legislatures  of  the  West, 
not  to  allow  demagogues  to  trifle  with  their  interests,  in  the  introduction 
of  banking  schemes  based  upon  any  other  foundation,  than  solid  capital. 
A more  enormous  engine  of  mishief  and  dishonesty  never  was  introduced 
into  a community. 

Lands  experienced  almost  a perpendicular  fall.  Immigration  was 
suspended.  Money  ceased  to  flow  into  the  country  from  that  source. 
The  depreciated  money  of  the  country  banks  was  no  longer  received  in 
payment.  The  merchants  had  sold  out  on  credit  the  immense  amount  of 
goods,  which  they  had  brought  into  the  country,  and  the  debtors  had  no 
means  of  payment  left  to  enable  them  to  make  remittances.  All  the 
specie  of  the  country  made  its  way  to  the  Atlantic  country,  to  pay  for  the 
goods,  imported  thence.  Credit  w&s  at  an  end,  and  universal  distress  pre- 
vailed. In  some  of  the  states,  after  some  experiments  of  quackery,  the 
legislatures  began  to  consult  experience,  and  desisted  from  violent  polit- 
ical remedies,  which  in  the  end  are  sure  to  aggravate  the  disease.  In 
other  legislatures,  where  they  had  not  yet  learned,  that  bills  made  by  an 
engraver,  and  signed  by  a president  and  cashier  of  a bank  with  a name, 
are  not  necessarily  money,  they  passed  laws,  whimsically  called  relief 
laws,  apparently  from  the  misery  and  confusion,  they  created,  And 
there  was  a new  deluge  of  bank  paper  in  a new  form  to  remedy  the  dis- 
tress, occasioned  by  the  failure  of  the  old.  In  Kentucky,  Illinois,  and 
Missouri,  the  legislatures  plunged  deepest  into  the  abyss  of  relief  laws. 
Loan  offices  emitted  money  on  the  faith  of  the  state,  pledged  for  its 
redemption.  It  was  soon  in  the  hands  of  speculators,  purchased  at  a 
fourth  of  its  nominal  value.  It  was  directly  ascertained,  that  the  remedy 
was  worse  than  the  disease.  This  evil  was  longest  persisted  in,  where  it 
would  have  been  supposed,  it  would  be  relinquished  first,  in  Kentucky  the 
common  mother  of  the  western  states,  opulent,  enlightened,  and  teeming 
with  men  of  education  and  intelligence.  So  it  will  ever  be,  when  the 
rash  and  presuming  legislate,  and  predicate  their  schemes  on  wild  theory, 
and  not  on  the  sure  teaching  of  age,  tried  wisdom,  experience,  and  the 
analogy  of  the  past. 

Were  we  to  descend  to  the  details  of  state  events,  and  the  charac- 
ter of  state  legislation,  volumes  would  be  necessary.  Mercantile,  mine- 
ral, and  fur  associations  were  formed  and  pursued  with  spirit.  Different 
exploring  expeditions,  ordered  by  the  government,  added  to  the  general 


CIVIL  HISTORY. 


181 


and  topographical  knowledge  of  the  country.  An  hundred  new  towns 
have  grown  to  consequence,  and  the  catalogue  of  proper  names  has  been 
ransacked  to  find  names  for  them.  Steam  boats  have  been  increased  to 
such  numbers,  that  there  are  now  more  than  two  hundred  on  our  waters. 
Our  militia  is  gradually  acquiring  efficiency  and  organization.  It  is, 
probably,  as  numerous,  in  proportion  to  our  population,  as  that  of  the 
Atlantic  states.  In  some  of  the  states,  the  system  is  lax,  or  the  laws 
badly  enforced;  for  the  militia  is  neither  regularly  organized,  trained  or 
armed.  A levy,  en  masse , in  the  state  of  Ohio  would  probably  bring  to 
the  held  more  fighting  men,  in  proportion  to  the  population,  than  in  any 
other  of  the  United  States.  Owing  to  its  recent  settlement,  few  of  the 
inhabitants  are  past  the  age  for  bearing  arms.  Males  immigrate  in  greater 
numbers,  than  females ; and  from  these  circumstances,  there  is  a large 
proportion  of  men  capable  of  bearing  arms. 

In  furnishing  a remedy  for  the  incalculable  mischief  and  misery  occa- 
sioned by  universal  want  of  confidence  in  the  local  banks,  and  bank 
paper,  the  only  currency  suited  to  the  wants  of  the  West,  no  influence 
was  felt  to  be  so  prompt  and  salutary,  as  the  establishment  of  branches 
of  the  bank  of  the  United  States  among  us.  It  would  be  easy  to  show, 
that  local  and  state  banks,  however  they  may  meet  the  necessities  of 
commerce,  when  established  in  large  commercial  towns,  with  extensive 
capital  always  promptly  convertible  into  specie,  and  however  they  may 
be  adequate  to  furnish  a sound  currency  for  a narrow  circle  in  their 
immediate  vicinity,  are  not  suited  to  the  position,  and  the  extensive, 
distant,  commercial  relations  of  the  West.  Although  this  country 
abundantly  possessed  that,  for  which  money  and  bank  paper  stand  as  the 
representatives,  our  distance  from  the  emporiums  of  commerce  on  the 
sea  board,  and  their  dear  bought  experience  of  the  former  worthlessness 
of  our  banks  forbade  reasonable  expectation,  that  our  local  paper  could 
be  received,  as  a sound  currency  beyond  the  immediate  vicinity  of  its 
issue.  In  this  establishment  was  provided  a banking  system,  much  better 
adapted  to  the  wants  of  an  interior  country,  than  of  the  maritime  capi- 
tals, enabling  the  people  to  obtain  loans  commensurate  with  their  estab- 
lished credit,  and  to  find  in  the  post  office  the  medium  of  sure  and 
prompt  remittance  of  a circulation  every  where  uniform,  and  enabling 
the  remotest  western  dealer  to  remit  to  the  most  distant  Atlantic  town, 
and  to  receive  remittances  at  his  writing  desk.  Western  travellers,  too, 
rapidly  increasing  in  numbers,  passing  to  the  remotest  points,  were 
relieved  from  the  intolerable  annoyance  of  dealing  with  a broker  at  the 
interval  of  every  hundred  miles,  and  continual  altercations  at  taverns 
and  stage  offices,  as  often  reminded,  that  a citizen  in  one  district  was  a 
stranger  in  another  of  the  same  country. 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


182 

Between  the  general  failure  of  the  western  banks  and  the  operation  of 
this  system,  western  dealers  were  driven  to  the  extremely  burdensome 
and  precarious  resource  of  specie  in  their  foreign  transactions.  Business 
and  trade  were  brought  to  a dead  pause.  Words  would  be  unavailing  to 
convey  an  idea  of  the  embarrassment  and  distress  occasioned  by  this 
order  of  things.  The  evils  were  spread  along  a course  of  two  thousand 
miles ; and  were  experienced  in  the  remote  cabins,  as  well  as  the  towns, 
and  villages  on  the  rivers.  Though  of  an  efficacy  to  create  much  misery, 
they  were  so  concealed  from  the  public  eye  and  ear,  as  to  create  little 
sympathy  or  commiseration  for  the  sufferers.  It  will  be  well  if  history 
and  remembrance  preserve  these  salutary  lessons,  as  solemn  warnings  to 
prevent  the  recurrence  of  a similar  bank  mania  for  the  future. 

The  result  of  a sound  and  uniform  currency  was  seen  in  the  restora- 
tion of  business  and  credit;  and  commerce  sprung  up,  like  a Phoenix, 
from  its  ashes.  Shapeless  and  mean  looking  villages  became  towns; 
and  the  towns  in  neatness  and  beauty  began  to  compare  with  those  in 
the  Atlantic  country.  The  best  evidence  of  the  change,  wrought  by  this 
order  of  things  is,  that  produce  and  every  species  of  vendible  property 
rose  to  double  and  triple  its  value,  during  the  season  of  general  embarrass- 
ment. Since  then,  the  progress  of  the  West  in  improvement  and  pros- 
perity has  been  as  rapid,  as  her  citizens  could  reasonably  desire. 

Immigration.  Before  entering  upon  a topographical  description  of 
the  states  and  territories,  we  deem  it  right  to  dwell  a little  on  the  circum- 
stances connected  with  emigration.  In  a country,  an  immense  proportion 
of  which  is  yet  wilderness,  containing  a hundred  thousand  log  cabins, 
and  annually  receiving  twice  that  number  of  immigrants,  a sketch  of  the 
circumstances,  under  which  they  remove,  and  make  their  beginnings  in 
the  forest,  cannot  be  without  its  interest  or  utility.  This  work,  having 
for  its  chief  object  the  physical  features  and  circumstances  of  the  West, 
seems  to  call  for  such  an  outline,  which  we  draw  entirely  from  our  own 
observation  and  experience.  Nor  will  an  intelligent  enquirer  turn  away 
from  a view  of  these  rustic  touches,  when  calling  to  mind,  that  all,  which 
any  part  of  our  country  can  show  of  elegance,  power  Tnd  improvement, 
was  cradled  in  similar  beginnings;  and  that  it  was  by  these  arts,  that  our 
whole  country  became  what  it  is;  that  the  transition  from  cabins  to  man- 
sions, and  from  settlements  to  cities  has  taken  place  under  our  own 
observation ; and  that  the  germs,  which  we  are  describing,  promise  to 
evolve  a vast  and  flourishing  empire,  to  which  imagination  may  hardly 
assign  bounds.  Still  less  will  they  be  indifferent  to  the  patriot  and  phi- 
lanthropist, if  we  furnish  evidence,  that  no  human  condition  is  more 
susceptible  of  plenty,  independence,  and  the  best  enjoyments,  which  the 


IMMIGRATION*  183 

earth  can  offer,  than  that  of  the  tenants  of  log  cabins,  who  turn  the  soil, 
which  share  never  furrowed  before. 

To  the  cabin  dwellers  themselves,  who  live  amidst  what  we  describe, 
such  sketches  may  be  gratuitous.  But  we  hope,  they  will  have  interest 
with  another  class  of  readers,  who  have  ideas  as  indistinct  of  the  modes 
and  contrivances  of  a settler  on  the  virgin  soil,  as  those  of  the  colonists 
of  the  Greeks  in  Asia  Minor,  or  the  Romans  in  Spain,  Gaul,  and  Africa. 
With  what  intense  interest  should  we  now  read  the  diary  of  one  of  the 
first  settlers  at  Plymouth,  Jamestown,  or  Mexico,  giving  the  diurnal 
details  of  his  progress  in  building,  enclosing,  and  advancing  from  the 
first  necessity  of  a shelter  from  the  elements,  to  comfort,  convenience  and 
elegance ! The  mind  delights  to  trace  mighty  streams  to  their  fountains; 
and  the  power,  improvement  and  splendor  of  states  to  the  germ  of  their 
inception.  How  few  traces,  by  which  to  gratify  this  interest,  remain. 
To  the  greater  number  of  even  western  readers  a faithful  picture  of 
the  primitive  habitations  of  the  country,  and  the  result  of  the  first  efforts 
of  agriculture  presents  a view  of  things  already  gone  by.  Our  ideas  of 
the  first  cabins  of  the  Puritans  at  Plymouth,  their  first  planting  and  garden- 
ing, their  first  social  intercourse  and  festivities,  by  which  they  solaced 
their  solitude  and  privations,  are  but  dim  and  uncertain  imaginings. 
Even  these  memorials  of  the  beginnings  of  the  French  in  Illinois  and 
Louisiana  are  fast  perishing  unrecorded  from  vision  and  memory. 

But  the  chief  utility,  which  we  hope  from  the  following  sketch,  is  to 
enable  the  reader,  who  contemplates  becoming  an  immigrant,  to  acquaint 
himself  in  advance  with  some  of  the  circumstances  of  his  undertaking, 
and  to  anticipate  what  he  may  be  called  to  do,  enjoy,  or  suffer. 

We  would  be  glad  to  furnish  him  with  some  elements,  on  which  to 
settle  the  expediency  of  immigration  in  advance;  by  showing  him  in  con- 
trast some  of  its  intrinsic  advantages  and  disadvantages.  If  a just 
balance  could  be  struck  between  the  actual  enjoyment  of  those,  who  live, 
and  die  in  the  old  settled  portions  of  the  country,  and  those,  who  emi- 
grate, and  settle  in  the  wilderness,  every  actual  immigrant  will  admit, 
that  it  would  be  far  from  being  an  abstract  discussion  of  the  nature  and 
chances  of  happiness. 

The  advantages  and  disadvantages  of  emigration  in  the  abstract  are 
partly  physical,  partly  moral.  The  inducements  to  it  arise,  with  most  of 
our  actions,  from  mixed  motives.  The  greater  part  of  the  European 
emigrants,  particularly  the  Germans,  flying  from  poverty  and  oppression, 
come  to  the  West  with  the  unmixed  motives  to  become  free  land  holders, 
and  to  purchase  cheap  and  rich  lands.  But  the  case  is  otherwise  with  the 
far  greater  portion  of  those,  who  emigrate  from  the  old  states  of  our 
own  country.  Imagination  exercises  more  influence  even  upon  minds 


184 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


the  most  uneducated,  than  we  are  ready  to  suppose.  There  is  no 
person,  about  to  place  himself  in  a remote  and  untried  position,  but  will 
find  on  examination,  that  the  new  scene,  viewed  in  anticipation,  is  in- 
vested with  a coloring  of  the  imagination,  that  has  a powerful  bearing 
upon  his  thoughts  and  determinations.  What  mind  ever  contemplated 
the  project  of  moving  from  the  old  settlements  over  the  Alleghany  moun- 
tains, and  selecting  a home  in  the  West,  without  forming  pictures  of  new 
woods  and  streams,  new  animals  and  vegetables,  new  configurations  of 
scenery,  new  aspects  of  men  and  new  forms  of  society,  novelty  in  the 
most  settled  mental  associations  with  the  phenomena  of  nature,  winds, 
clouds,  rains,  snows,  thunder,  and  all  the  accidents  ®f  climate,  new  hopes, 
in  a word,  of  chasing  down,  in  a new  and  far  country,  that  phantom  of 
our  desires,  always  pursued  in  things  without  us,  and  never  found  except 
within  us,  happiness  ? 

After  the  long  vexed  question  whether  to  remove  or  not,  is  settled, 
by  consulting  friends,  travellers  and  books,  the  next  step  is  to  select  the 
route,  and  arrange  the  preparations  for  it.  The  universality  and  cheapness 
of  steam  boat  and  canal  passage  and  transport,  have  cajsed,  that  more 
than  half  the  whole  number  of  immigrants  now  arrive  n the  West  by 
water.  This  remark  applies  to  nine  tenths  of  those  ®at  come  from 
Europe  and  the  northern  states.  They  thus  escape  much  of  the  expense, 
slowness,  inconvenience  and  danger  of  the  ancient  cumbrous  and  tire- 
some journey  in  wagons.  They  no  longer  experience  the  former 
vexations  of  incessant  altercation  with,  landlords,  mutual  charges  of 
dishonesty,  discomfort  from  new  modes  of  speech  and  reckoning  money, 
from  breaking  down  carriages  and  wearing  out  horses. 

But  the  steam  boats  and  canal  boats  have  their  disadvantages.  Cast  per- 
haps for  the  first  time  among  a mixed  company  of  strangers,  the  bashful 
mother  and  tlje  uneasy  and  curious  children  present  an  ample  specimen 
of  their  domestic  training;  and  how  much  they  have  profited  by  that 
universal  education,  about  which  every  one  talks.  But  though  they  may 
mutually  annoy,  and  be  annoyed,  their  curiosity  is  constantly  excited, 
and  gratified ; their  hunger  abundantly  appeased ; and  they  occasionally 
form  pleasant  intimacies  with  their  fellow  travellers.  If  travelling  be  a 
mode  of  enjoyment,  these  unsated  and  unhackneyed  travellers  probably 
find,  on  the  whole,  a balance  of  enjoyment  in  favor  of  the  journey  of 
immigration. 

The  chances  are  still  more  favorable  for  the  immigrants  from  Virginia, 
the  two  Carolinas  and  Georgia,  who,  from  their  habits  and  relative  posi- 
tion, still  immigrate,  after  the  ancient  fashion,  in  the  southern  wagon. 
This  is  a vehicle  almost  unknown  at  the  north,  strong,  comfortable, 
commodious,  containing  not  only  a movable  kitchen  , but  provisions  and 


IMMIGRATION. 


185 


beds.  Drawn  by  four  or  six  horses,  it  subserves  all  the  various  intentions 
of  house,  shelter  and  transport;  and  is,  in  fact,  the  southern  ship  of  the 
forests  and  prairies.  The  horses,  that  convey  the  wagon,  are  large  and 
powerful  animals,  followed  by  servants,  cattle,  sheep,  swine,  dogs,  the 
whole  forming  a primitive  caravan  not  unworthy  of  ancient  days,  and  the 
plains  of  Mamre.  The  procession  moves  on  with  power  in  its  dust, 
putting  to  shame  and  uncomfortable  feelings  of  comparison  the  northern 
family^with  their  slight  wagon,  jaded  horses  and  subdued,  though  jealous 
countenances.  Their  vehicle  stops;  and  they  scan  the  strong  southern 
hulk,  with  its  chimes  of  bells,  its  fat  black  drivers  and  its  long  train  of 
concomitants,  until  they  have  swept  by. 

Perhaps  more  than  half  the  northern  immigrants  arrive  at  present  by 
way  of  the  New  York  canal  and  lake  Erie.  If  their  destination  be  the 
upper  waters  of  the  Wabash,  they  debark  at  Sandusky,  and  continue 
their  route  without  approaching  the  Ohio.  The  greater  number  make 
their  way  from  the  lake  to  the  Ohio,  either  by  the  Erie  and  Ohio,  or  the 
Dayton  canal.  From  all  points,  except  those  west  of  the  Guyandot 
route  and  the  national  road,  when  they  arrive  at  the  Ohio,  or  its  navigable 
waters,  the  greater  number  of  the  families  ‘take  water.’  Emigrants  from 
Pennsylvania  will  henceforward  reach  the  Ohio  on  the  great  Pennsylvania 
canal,  and  will £ take  water’  at  Pittsburgh.  If  bound  to  Indiana,  Illinois 
or  Missouri,  they  build,  or  purchase  a family  boat.  Many  of  these  boats 
are  comfortably  fitted  up,  and  are  neither  inconvenient,  nor  unpleasant 
floating  houses.  Two  or  three  families  sometimes  fit  up  a large  boat  in 
partnership,  purchase  an  £ Ohio  pilot,’  a book  that  professes  to  instruct 
them  in  the  mysteries  of  navigating  the  Ohio;  and  if  the  Ohio  be  mode- 
rately high,  and  the  weather  pleasant,  this  voyage,  unattended  with  either 
difficulty  or  danger,  is  ordinarily  a trip  of  pleasure.  We  need  hardly 
add,  that  a great  number  of  the  wealthier  emigrant  families  take  passage 
in  a steam  boat. 

While  the  southerner  finds  the  autumnal  and  vernal  season  on  the  Ohio 
too  cool,  to  the  northerner  it  is  temperate  and  delightful.  When  the  first 
wreaths  of  morning  mist  are  rolled  away  from  the  stream  by  the  bright 
sun,  disclosing  the  ancient  woods,  the  hoary  bluffs,  and  the  graceful 
curves  and  windings  of  the  long  line  of  channel  above  and  below,  the 
rich  alluvial  belt  and  the  fine  orchards  on  its  shores,  the  descending  voy- 
agers must  be  destitute  of  the  common  perceptions  of  the  beautiful,  if 
they  do  not  enjoy  the  voyage,  and  find  the  Ohio,  in  the  French  phrase, 
La  belle  riviere. 

After  the  immigrants  have  arrived  at  Cincinnati,  Lexington,  Nashville, 
St.  Louis,  or  St.  Charles,  in  the  vicinity  of  the  points,  where  they  had 
anticipated  to  fix  themselves,  a preliminary  difficulty,  and  one  of 

24 


186 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


difficult  solution  is,  to  determine  to  what  quarter  to  repair.  All  the 
towns  swarm  with  speculating  companies  and  land  agents;  and  the 
chance  is,  that  the  first  inquiries  for  information  in  this  perplexity  will 
be  addressed  to  them,  or  to  persons  who  have  a common  understanding 
and  interest  with  them.  The  published  information,  too,  comes  directly 
or  indirectly  from  them,  in  furtherance  of  their  views.  One  advises  to 
the  Wabash,  and  points  on  the  map  to  the  rich  lands,  fine  mill  seats, 
• navigable  streams  and  growing  towns  in  their  vicinity.  Another  presents 
a still  more  alluring  picture  of  the  lands  in  some  part  of  Illinois,  Missouri, 
tire  region,  west  of  the  lakes,  and  the  lead  mines.  Another  tempts  him 
with  White  River,  Arkansas,  Red  River,  Opelousas,  and  Attakapas,  the 
rich  crops  of  cotton  and  sugar,  and  the  escape  from  winter,  which  they 
offer.  Still  another  company  has  its  nets  set  in  all  the  points,  where 
immigrants  congregate,  blazoning  all  the  advantages  of  Texas,  and  the 
Mexican  country.  In  Cincinnati,  more  than  in  any  other  town,  there 
are  generally  precursors  from  all  points  of  the  compass,  to  select  lands  for 
companies,  that  are  to  follow.  There  are  such  here  at  present  both  from 
Europe  and  New  England;  and  we  read  advertisements,  that  a thousand 
persons  are  shortly  to  meet  at  St.  Louis  to  form  a company  to  cross  the 
Rocky  Mountains,  with  a view  to  select  settlements  on  the  Oregon.  • 

When  this  slow  and  perplexing  process  of  balancing,  comparing  and 
fluctuating  between  the  choice  of  rivers,  districts,  climates  and  advanta- 
ges, is  fixed,  after  determination  has  vibrated  backwards  and  forwards 
according  to  the  persuasion  and  eloquence  of  the  last  adviser,  until  the 
purpose  of  the  immigrant  is  fixed,  the  northern  settler  is  generally  borne 
to  the  point  of  debarkation,  nearest  his  selected  spot,  by  water.  He 
thence  hires  the  transport  of  his  family  and  movables  to  the  spot;  though 
not  a few  northern  emigrants  move  all  the  distance  in  wagons.  The 
whole  number  from  the  north  far  exceeds  that  from  the  south.  But  they 
drop,  in  noiseless  quietness,  into  their  position,  and  the  rapidity  of  their 
progress  in  settling  a country  is  only  presented  by  the  startling  results  of 
the  census. 

The  southern  settlers  who  immigrate  to  Missouri  and  the  country  south 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  by  their  show  of  wagons,  flocks  and  numbers 
create  observation,  and  are  coqnted  quite  as  numerous,  as  they  are.  Ten 
wagons  are  often  seen  in  company.  It  is  a fair  allowance,  that  a hundred 
cattle,  beside  swine,  horses  and  sheep,  and  six  negroes  accompany  each. 
The  train,  with  the  tinkling  of  an  hundred  bells,  and  the  negroes, 
wearing  the  delighted  expression  of  a holiday  suspension  from  labor  in 
their  countenances,  forming  one  group,  and  the  family  slowly  moving 
forward,  forming  another,  as  the  whole  is  seen  advancing  along  the  plains, 
it  presents  a pleasing  and  picturesque  spectacle. 


IMMIGRANTS* 


13? 


They  make  arrangements  at  night  fall  to  halt  at  a spring,  where  there 
is  wood  and  water,  and  a green  sward  for  encampment.  The  dogs  raise 
their  accustomed  domestic  baying.  The  teams  are  unharnessed,  and  the 
cattle  and  horses  turned  loose  into  the  grass.  The  blacks  are  busy  in 
spreading  the  cheerful  table  in  the  wilderness,  and  preparing  the  supper, 
to  which  the  appetite  of  fatigue  gives  zest.  They  talk  over  the  incidents 
of  the  past  day,  and  anticipate  those  of  the  morrow.  If  wolves  and 
owls  are  heard  in  the  distance,  these  desert  sounds  serve  to  render  the 
contrast  of  their  society  and  security  more  sensible.  In  this  order  they 
plunge  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  forest  or  prairie,  until  they  have 
found  the  place  of  their  rest. 

The  position  for  a cabin  generally  selected  by  the  western  settlers  is 
a gentle  eminence  near  a spring,  or  what  is  called  a branch , central  to  a 
spacious  tract  of  fertile  land.  Such  spots  are  generally  occupied  by 
tulip  and  black  walnut  trees,  intermixed  with  the  beautiful  cornus  fiorida 
and  red  bud , the  most  striking  flowering  shrubs  of  the  western  forest. 

Springs  burst  forth  in  the  intervals  between  the  high  and  low  grounds. 
The  brilliant  red  bird  seen  flitting  among  the  shrubs,  or  perched  on  a 
tree,  in  its  mellow  whistle  seems  welcoming  the  immigrant  to  his  new 
abode.  Flocks  of  paroquets  are  glittering  among  the  trees,  and  gray 
squirrels  are  skipping  from  branch  to  branch.  The  chanticleer  rings  his 
echoing  note  among  the  woods,  and  the  domestic  sounds  and  the  baying 
of  the  dogs  produce  a strange  cheerfulness,  as  heard  in  the  midst  of  trees? 
where  no  habitation  is  seen.  Pleasing  reflections  and  happy  associations 
are  naturally  connected  with  the  contemplation  of  these  beginnings  of 
social  toil  in  the  wilderness. 

In  the  midst  of  these  solitary  and  primeval  scenes  the  patient  and  labori- 
ous father  fixes  his  family.  In  a few  days  a comfortable  cabin  and  other 
out  buildings  are  erected.  The  first  year  gives  a plentiful  crop  of  corn, 
and  common  and  sweet  potatoes,  melons,  squashes,  turnips  and  other 
garden  vegetables.  The  next  year  a field  of  wheat  is  added,  and  lines 
of  thrifty  apple  trees  show  among  the  deadened  trees.  If  the  immigrant 
possess  any  touch  of  horticultural  taste,  the  finer  kinds  of  pear,  plum, 
cherry,  peach,  nectarine  and  apricot  trees  are  found  in  the  garden.  In 
ten  years  the  log  buildings  will  all  have  disappeared,  the  shrub  and 
forest  trees  will  be  gone.  The  arcadian  aspect  of  humble  and  retired 
abundance  and  comfort  will  have  given  place  to  a brick  house,  or  a planted 
frame  house,  with  fences  and  out  buildings  very  like  those,  that  surround 
abodes  in  the  olden  countries. 

It  is  a wise  arrangement  of  providence,  that  different  minds  are  endowed 
with  different  tastes  and  predilections,  that  lead  some  to  choose  the  town, 
others  manufactures,  and  the  village  callings.  It  seems  to  us  that  no 


188 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


condition,  in  itself  considered,  promises  more  comfort,  and  tends  more 
to  virtue  and  independence,  than  that  of  these  western  yeomen,  with 
their  numerous,  healthy  and  happy  children  about  them;  with  the  ample 
abundance  of  their  granaries;  their  habitation  surrounded  by  orchards, 
the  branches  of  which  must  be  propped  to  sustain  their  fruit,  beside  their 
beautiful  streams  and  cool  beach  woods,  and  the  prospect  of  settling 
each  of  their  children  on  similar  farms  directly  around  them.  Their 
manners  may  have  something  of  the  roughness  imparted  by  living  in 
solitude  among  the  trees ; but  it  is  kindly,  hospitable,  frank,  and  associa- 
ted with  the  traits,  that  constitute  the  stability  of  our  republic.  We 
apprehend,  such  farmers  would  hardly  be  willing  to  exchange  this  plenty, 
and  this  range  of  their  simple  domains,  their  we^  filled  granaries, 
and  their  droves  of  domestic  animals  for  any  mode  of  life,  that  a town 
can  offer. 

No  order  of  things  presents  so  palpable  a view  of  the  onward  march 
of  American  institutions  as  this.  The  greater  portion  of  these  immigrants,, 
beside  their  wives,  a few  benches  and  chairs,  a bible  and  a gun,  com- 
menced with  little  more  than  their  hands.  Their  education  for  the  most 
part,  extended  no  farther  than  reading  and  writing,  and  their  aspirations 
had  never  strayed  beyond  the  desire  of  making  a farm.  But  a sense  of 
relative  consequence  is  fostered  by  their  growing  possessions,  and  by 
perceiving  towns,  counties,  offices  and  candidates  springing  up  around 
them.  One  becomes  a justice  of  peace,  another  a county  judge  and 
another  a member  of  the  legislative  assembly.  Each  one  assumes  some 
municipal  function,  pertaining  to  schools,  the  settlement  of  a minister, 
the  making  of  roads,  bridges,  and  public  works.  A sense  of  responsibility 
to  public  opinion,  self  respect,  and  a due  estimation  of  character  and 
correct  deportment  are  the  consequence. 

This  pleasant  view  of  the  commencement  and  progress  of  an  imnffi 
grant  is  the  external  one.  Unhappily  there  is  another  point  of  view, 
from  which  we  may  learn  something  what  has  been  passing  in  his  mind, 
during  this  physical  onward  progress. 

All  the  members  of  the  establishment  have  been  a hundred  times 
afflicted  with  that  gloomy  train  of  feeling,  for  which  we  have  no  better 
name,  than  home  sickness.  All  the  vivid  perceptions  of  enjoyment  of 
the  forsaken  place  are  keenly  remembered,  the  sorrows  overlooked,  or 
forgotten.  The  distant  birth  place,  the  remembrance  of  years,  that  are 
gone,  returning  to  memory  amidst  the  actual  struggles  of  forming  a new 
establishment,  an  effort  full  of  severe  labor,  living  in  a new  world, 
making  acquaintance  with  a new  nature,  competing  with  strangers, 
always  seeming  to  uneducated  people,  as  they  did  to  the  ancients,  as 
enemies,  these  contrasts  of  the  present  with  the  mellowed  visions  of 


IMMIGRATION. 


189 


memory  all  tend  to  bitterness.  We  never  understand,  liow  many  invisi- 
ble ties  of  habit  we  sever  in  leaving  our  country,  until  we  find  ourselves 
in  a strange  land.  The  old  pursuits,  and  ways  of  passing  time,  of  which 
we  took  little  note,  as  they  passed,  where  there  are  new  forms  of  society, 
new  institutions,  new  ways  of  managing  every  thing,  that  belongs  to  the 
social  edifice,  in  a word,  a complete  change  of  the  whole  circle  of  associ- 
ations feelings  and  habits,  come  over  the  mind,  like  a cloud. 

The  immigrant,  in  the  pride  of  his  remembrances,  begins  to  extol  the 
country,  he  has  left,  its  inhabitants,  laws,  institutions.  The  listener  has 
an  equal  stock  of  opposite  prejudices.  The  pride  of  the  one  wounds 
the  pride  of  the  other.  The  weakness  of  human  nature  is  never  more 
obvious,  than  in  these  meetings  of  neighbors  in  a new  country,  each  fierce 
and  loud  in  extolling  his  own  country,  and  detracting  from  all  others  in 
the  comparison.  These  narrow  and  vile  prejudices  spread  from  family 
to  family,  and  create  little  clans  political,  social,  religious,  hating,  and 
hated.  No  generous  project  for  a school,  church,  library,  or  public  insti- 
tution, on  a broad  and  equal  scale,  can  prosper,  amidst  such  an  order  of 
things.  It  is  a sufficient  reason,  that  one  clan  proposes  it,  for  another 
to  oppose  it.  All  this  springs  from  one  of  the  deepest  instincts  of  our 
nature,  a love  of  country,  which,  like  a transplanted  tree,  in  removing  has 
too  many  fibres  broken  off,  to  flourish  at  once  in  a new  soil.  The  immi- 
grant meets  with  sickness,  misfortune,  disaster.  There  are  peculiar 
strings  in  the  constitution  of  human  nature,  which  incline  him  to  repine, 
and  imagine,  that  the  same  things  would  not  have  befallen  him  in  his  former 
abode.  He  even  finds  the  vegetables,  fruits,  and  meats,  though  appa- 
rently finer,  less  savory  and  nutritive,  than  those  of  the  old  country. 
Under  the  pressure  of  such  illusions,  many  an  immigrant  has  forsaken 
his  cabin,  returned  to  his  parent  country,  found  this  mockery  of  his 
fancies  playing  at  cross  purposes  with  him,  and  showing  him  an  aban- 
doned paradise  in  the  western  woods,  and  father  land  the  country  of 
penury  and  disaster.  A second  removal,  perhaps,  instructs  him,  that 
most  of  the  causes  of  our  dissatisfaction  and  disgust,  that  we  imagine 
have  their  origin  in  external  things,  really  exist  in  the  mind. 

To  the  emigrants  from  towns  and  villages  in  the  Atlantic  country, 
though  they  may  have  thought  little  of  religious  institutions  at  home, 
the  absence  of  the  church  with  its  spire,  and  its  sounds  of  the  church- 
going bell,  of  the  village  bustle,  and  the  prating  of  the  village  tavern 
are  felt,  as  serious  privations.  The  religious  discourses  so  boisterous 
and  vehement,  and  in  a tone  and  phrase  so  different  from  the  calm  tenor 
of  what  he  used  to  hear,  at  first  produce  a painful  revulsion  not  wholly 
unmixed  with  disgust.  He  finds  no  longer  those  little  circles  of  com- 
pany, into  which  he  used  to  drop,  to  relax  a leisure  hour,  which,  it  may 


190 


MISSISSIPPI  Y ALLEY c 


be,  were  not  much  prized  in  the  enjoyment;  but  are  now  felt,  as  a serious 
want.  Nothing  shocks  him  so  much,  as  to  see  his  neighbor  sicken,  and 
die,  unsolaced  by  the  voice  of  religious  instruction  and  prayer,  and 
carried  to  his  long  home  without  funeral  services.  These  are  some  of 
the  circumstances,  that,  in  the  new  settlements,  call  up  the  tender  recol- 
lections of  a forsaken  home  to  embitter  the  present. 

These  are  the  dark  sides  of  the  picture  of  immigration.  But  there  is, 
perhaps  less  romance  in  the  American  character,  than  in  that  of  any 
other  people;  and  every  thing  in  our  institutions  tends  to  banish  the 
little,  that  remains.  We  are  a people  to  estimate  vendible  and  tangible 
realities.  Imaginary  and  unreal  sorrows  and  disgusts  gradually  yield 
before  an  estimate  of  the  value  of  abundance  and  independence.  More 
than  half  the  inhabitants  of  the  western  country  still  dwell  in  cabins;  and 
to  those  who  know,  how  much  general  contentment  with  their  lot,  moral 
and  sturdy  hardihood,  guileless  honesty,  and  blitheness  of  heart  these 
bupible  establishments  generally  contain,  they  bring  associations  of  re- 
pose jmd  abstraction  from  ambitious  and  artificial  wants,  and  present  on 
the  whole,  a balance  of  real  and  homefelt  comfort  and  enjoyment. 

The  first  business  is  to  clear  away  the  trees  from  the  spot  where  the 
house  is  to  stand.  The  general  construction  of  a west  country  cabin  is 
after  the  following  fashion.  Straight  trees  are  felled  of  a size,  that  a 
common  team  can  draw,  or  as  the  phrase  is  6 snake,’  them  to  the  intended 
spot.  The  common  form  of  a larger  cabin  is  that,  called  a 4 double  cabin ;’ 
that  is,  two  square  pens  with  an  open  space  between,  connected  by  a roof 
above  and  a floor  below,  so  as  to  form  a parallelogram  of  nearly  triple  the 
length  of  its  depth.  In  the  open  space  the  family  take  their  meals  during 
the  pleasant  weather;  and  it  serves  the  threefold  purpose  of  kitchen,  lumber 
room,  and  dining  room.  The  logs,  of  which  it  is  composed,  are  notched 
on  to  one  another,  in  the  form  of  a square.  The  roof  is  covered  with  thin 
splits  of  oak,  not  unlike  staves.  Sometimes  they  are  made  of  ash,  and 
in  the  lower  country  of  cypress,  and  they  are  called  clap  boards.  Instead 
of  being  nailed,  they  are  generally  confined  in  their  place  by  heavy  tim- 
bers, laid  at  right  angles  across  them.  This  gives  the  roof  of  a log  house 
an  unique  and  shaggy  appearance.  But  if  the  clap  boards  have  been 
carefully  prepared  from  good  timber  they  form  a roof  sufficiently  imper- 
vious to  common  rains.  The  floors  are  made  from  short  and  thick  plank, 
split  from  yellow  poplar,  cotton  wood,  black  walnut,  and  sometimes  oak. 
They  are  confined  with  wooden  pins,  and  are  technically  called  4 pun- 
cheons.’ 

The  southern  people,  and  generally  the  more  wealthy  immigrants  ad- 
vance in  the  first  instance  to  the  luxury  of  having  the  logs  hewed  on  the 
inside,  and  the  puncheon  floor  hewed,  and  planed,  in  which  case  it  be- 


IMMIGRATION* 


191 


comes  a very  comfortable  and  neat  floor.  The  next  step  is  to  build  the 
chimney,  which  is  constructed  after  the  French,  or  American  fashion. 
The  French  mode  is  a smaller  quadrangular  chimney,  laid  up  with  smaller 
splits.  The  American  fashion  is  to  make  a much  larger  aperture,  laid  up 
with  splits  of  great  size  and  weight.  In  both  forms  it  tapers  upwards, 
like  a pyramid.  The  interstices  are  filled  with  a thick  coating  of  clay, 
and  the  outside  plastered  with  clay  mortar,  prepared  with  chopped  straw, 
or  hay,  and  in  the  lower  country  with  long  moss.  The  hearth  is  made 
with  clay  mortar,  or,  where  it  can  be  found,  sand  stones,  as  the  common 
lime  stone  does  not  stand  the  fire.  The  interstices  of  the  logs  in  the 
room  are  first £ chincked ;’  that  is  to  say,  small  blocks  and  pieces  of  wood 
in  regular  forms  are  driven  between  the  intervals,  made  by  laying  the 
logs  over  each  other,  so  as  to  form  a kind  of  a coarse  lathing  to  hold  the 
mortar. 

The  doors  are  made  of  plank,  split  in  the  manner  mentioned  before, 
from  fresh  cut  timber;  and  they  are  hung  after  an  ingenious  fashion  on 
large  wooden  hinges,  and  fastened  with  a substantial  wooden  latch.  The 
windows  are  square  apertures,  cut  through  the  logs,  and  are  closed  during 
the  cooler  nights  and  the  inclement  weather  Hy  wooden  shutters.  The 
kitchen  and  the  negro  quarters,  if  the  establishment  have  slaves,  are  sepa^ 
rate  buildings,  prepared  after  the  same  fashion;  but  with  less  care,  except 
in  the  article  of  the  closeness  of  their  roofs.  The  grange,  stable  and 
corn  houses  are  all  of  similar  materials,  varied  in  their  construction  to 
answer  their  appropriate  purposes.  About  ten  buildings  of  this  sort 
make  up  the  establishment  of  a farmer  with  three  or  four  free  hands,  or 
half  a dozen  slaves. 

The  field,  in  which  the  cabin  is  built,  is  generally  a square  or  oblong 
enclosure,  of  which  the  buildings  are  the  centre,  if  the  owner  be  from  the 
south;  or  in  the  centre  of  one  side  of  the  square,  if  from  the  north.  If 
the  soil  be  not  alluvial,  a table  area  of  rich  upland,  indicated  to  be  such 
by  its  peculiar  growth  of  timber,  is  selected  for  the  spot.  Nine  tenths  of 
the  habitations  in  the  upper  western  states  are  placed  near  springs,  which 
supply  the  family  with  water.  The  settlers  on  the  prairies,  for  the  most 
part,  fix  their  habitations  in  the  edges  of  the  wood,  that  skirts  the  prairie, 
and  generally  obtain  their  water  from  wells.  The  inhabitants  of  the 
lower  country,  on  the  contrary,  except  in  the  state  of  Mississippi,  where 
springs  are  common,  chiefly  supply  themselves  with  water  from  cisterns 
filled  by  rain.  If  the  settlers  have  slaves,  the  trees  are  carefully  cleared 
away,  by  cutting  them  down  near  the  ground.  That  part  of  the  timber, 
which  cannot  be  used  either  for  rails,  or  the  construction  of  the  buildings, 
is  burned,  and  a clearing  is  thus  made  for  a considerable  space  round 
the  cabin.  In  the  remaining  portion  of  the  field,  the  trees  undergo  an 


192 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


operation,  called  by  the  northern  people  ‘ girdling,’  and  by  the  southern 
‘deadening.’  That  is,  a circle  is  cut,  two  01  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  quite  through  the  bark  of  the  tree,  so  as  completely  to  divide 
the  vessels,  which  carry  on  the  progress  of  circulation.  Some  species 
of  trees  are  so  tenacious  of  life,  as  to  throw  out  leaves,  after  having 
suffered  this  operation.  But  they  seldom  have  foliage,  after  the  first 
year.  The  smaller  trees  are  all  cut  down;  and  the  accumulated  spoils 
of  vegetable  decay  are  burned  together;  and  the  ashes  contribute  to  the 
great  fertility  of  the  virgin  soil.  If  the  field  contain  timber  for  rails,  the 
object  is  to  cut  as  much  as  possible  on  the  clearing;  thus  advancing  the 
double  purpose  of  clearing  away  the  trees,  and  preparing  the  rails,  so  as 
to  require  the  least  possible  distance  of  removal.  An  experienced  hand 
will  split  from  an  hundred  to  an  hundred  and  fifty  rails  in  a day.  Such 
is  the  convenience  of  finding  them  on  the  ground  to  be  fenced,  that 
Kentucky  planters  and  the  southern  people  generally  prefer  timbered 
land  to  prairie;  notwithstanding  the  circumstance,  so  unsightly  and  in- 
convenient to  a northern  man,  of  dead  trees,  stumps,  and  roots,  which, 
strewed  in  every  direction  over  his  field,  even  the  southern  planter  finds 
a great  preliminary  impediment  in  the  way  of  cultivation.  The  northern 
people  prefer  to  settle  on  the  prairie  land,  where  it  can  be  had  in  con- 
venient  positions. 

The  rails  are  laid  zigzag,  one  length  funning  nearly  at  right  angles  to 
the  other.  This  in  west  country  phrase,  is  c worm  fence,’  and  in  the 
northern  dialect £ Virginia  fence.’  The  rails  are  large  and  heavy,  and  to 
turn  the  wild  cattle  and  horses  of  the  country,  require  to  be  laid  ten  rails 
or  six  feet  in  height.  The  smaller  roots  and  the  underbrush  are  cleared 
from  the  ground  by  a sharp  hoe,  known  by  the  name  ‘ grubbing  hoe.  ’ 
This  implement,  with  a cross  cut  saw , a whip  saw , a hand  saw , axes , a 
broad  axe , an  adze , an  auger,  a hammer , nails , and  an  iron  tool  to  split 
clap  boards,  constitute  the  indispensable  apparatus  for  a backwoodsman. 
The  smoke  house,  spring  house,  and  other  common  appendages  of  such 
an  establishment  it  is  unnecessary  to  describe ; for  they  are  the  same  as  in 
the  establishment  of  the  farmers  in  the  middle  and  southern  Atlantic 
states. 

A peach  orchard  is  generally  the  first  object  in  raising  fruit;  because 
it  is  easily  made,  and  begins  to  bear  the  second  or  third  year.  Apple 
orchards  with  all  good  farmers  are  early  objects  of  attention.  Theculti 
vation  of  the  more  delicate  garden  fruits  is  generally  an  object  of  after 
attention,  if  at  all.  Maize  is  planted  the  first  year  without  ploughing. 
Afterwards  the  plough  becomes  necessary.  Turnips,  sweet  potatoes, 
pumpkins  and  melons  flourish  remarkably  on  the  virgin  soil.  It  is  a 
pleasant  spectacle,  to  see  with  what  luxuriance  the  apple  tree  advances, 


IMMIGRATION* 


193 


South  of  33°  the  fig  tree  is  substituted  for  the  apple  tree*  If  the  log 
buildings  were  made  of  good  and  durable  materials,  they  remain  comfort- 
able dwellings  seven  or  eight  years.  By  this  time  in  the  ordinary  prog- 
ress of  successful  farming,  the  owner  replaces  them  by  a house  of  stone, 
brick,  or  frame  work;  and  the  object  is  to  have  the  second  house  as  large, 
and  showy,  as  the  first  was  rustic  and  rude.  A volume  of  details, 
touching  the  progress  of  such  establishments,  might  be  added.  But 
this  brief,  though  faithful  outline  of  commencing  establishments  in  the 
woods  aims  to  record  an  order  of  things,  that  is  passing  away  under 
our  eyes,  and  which  will  soon  be  found  only  in  history. 

It  is  impossible  to  satisfy  the  inquiries,  that  are  constantly  making, 
particularly  by  European  emigrants,  touching  the  exact  cost  of  these 
improvements,  and  the  requisite  provisions,  cattle  and  horses,  necessary 
for  a commencement.  All  these  things  vary,  not  only  according  to 
quality  as  elsewhere,  but  according  to  nearness  or  remoteness  from  set- 
tlements, according  to  the  abundance  or  scarceness  of  the  article;  in  fact, 
are  liable  to  greater  irregularities  of  price,  than  in  the  old  settlements. 
Labor  has  found  its  level,  and  costs  nearly  the  same  in  the  new,  as  in 
the  old  states.  The  average  expense  of  log  houses  may,  perhaps,  be 
rated  at  fifty  dollars,  when  built  on  contract.  Clearing,  grubbing  and 
■enclosing  timbered  land,  so  as  to  prepare  it  for  a crop,  costs  from  six  to 
twel  ve  dollars  an  acre,  according  to  the  heaviness  and  hardness  of  the 
timber,  and  the  ease  of  splitting  rails.  The  prairie  land  has  a very  tough 
green  sward,  and  costs  three  dollars  an  acre  to  be  well  ploughed  the 
first  time.  Lands  under  good  improvement  are  generally  worth  from  six 
to  ten  dollars  an  acre  ; and  all  are  aware,  that  the  government  price  of 
wild  lands,  after  the  first  auction  sales,  is  one  dollar  and  twenty  five 
cents  an  sere. 

The  most  affectionate  counsel,  we  would  give  an  immigrant,  after  an 
acquaintance  with  all  districts  of  the  western  country  of  sixteen  years, 
and  after  having  seen,  and  felt  no  small  part  of  all,  we  have  attempted  to 
record,  would  be  to  regard  the  salubrity  of  the  spot  selected,  as  a consid- 
eration of  more  importance,  than  its  fertility,  or  vicinity  to  a market;  to 
supply,  himself  with  a good  manual  of  domestic  medicine,  if  such  a man- 
ual is  to  be  found ; still  more,  to  obtain  simple  and  precise  notions  of  the 
more  obvious  aspects  of  disease,  an  acquisition  worth  a hundred  times  its 
cost,  and  more  than  all  to  a backwoodsman;  to  have  a lancet,  and  suffi- 
cient experience  and  firmness  of  hand  to  open  a vein ; to  have  a small, 
but  well  labelled  and  well  supplied  medicine  chest  ; aud  to  be,  after  all, 
very  cautious  about  either  taking,  or  administering  its  contents,  reserv- 
ing them  for  emergencies,  and  for  a choice  of  evils;  to  depend  for  health 
on  temperance,  moderation  in  all  things,  a careful  conformity  in  food  and 

25 


194 


MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY. 


dress  to  circumstances  and  the  climate;  and  above  all,  let  him  observe  a 
rigid  and  undeviating  abstinence  from  that  loathsome  and  murderous 
western  poison,  whiskey,  which  may  be  pronounced  the  prevalent  miasm 
of  the  country.  Let  every  immigrant  learn  the  mystery,  and  provide  the 
materials  to  make  good  beer.  Let  every  immigrant  during  the  season  of 
acclimation,  especially  the  sultry  months,  take  medicine  by  way  of  pre- 
vention, twice  or  thrice,  with  abstinence  from  labor  a day  or  two  after- 
wards. Let  him  have  a Bible  for  a constant  counsellor  and  a few  good 
books  for  instruction  and  amusement.  Let  him  have  the  dignity  and 
good  sense  to  train  his  family  religiously ; and  not  to  be  blown  about  by 
every  wind  of  doctrine  in  religion,  politics  or  opinions.  Let  his  rifle 
rust,  and  let  the  game,  unless  it  come  in  his  way,  live  on.  Let  him  cul- 
tivate a garden  of  choice  fruit,  as  well  as  a fine  orchard.  Let  him  keep 
bees;  for  their  management  unites  pleasure  and ’profit.  Let  him  pre- 
pare for  silk  making  on  a small  and  gradual  scale.  Let  him  cultivate 
grapes  by  way  of  experiment.  Let  him  banish  unreal  wants;  and  learn 
the  master  secret  of  self  possession,  and  be  content  with  such  things,  as 
he  has ; aware  that  every  position  in  life  has  advantages  and  trials.  Let 
him  assure  himself  that  if  an  independent  farmer. cannot  be  happy  no  man 
can  . Let  him  magnify  his  calling,  respect  himself,  envy  no  one,  and  raise 
to  the  Author  of  all  good  constant  arpirations  of  thankfulness,  as  he 
eats  the  bread  ©f  peace  and  privacy. 


FLORIDA 


Length  550  miles.  Mean  breadth  120  miles.  Between  25  and  31°  N. 
latitude,  and  80  and  92°  W.  longitude  from  London.  Under  its  former 
owners,  it  was  separated  into  two  political  divisions,  whose  geographical 
limits  were  strongly  marked  by  nature;  to  wit,  East  and  West  Florida, 
At  the  southern  extent  of  East  Florida,  there  is  a long  and  narrow  penin- 
sula, running  a great  distance  into  the  sea,  and  marking  the  eastern 
boundary  of  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  It  extends  northwardly  to  Alabama  and 
Georgia,  east  to  Georgia,  south  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico ; and  west  to 
the  river  Appalachicola,  between  80  and  85°  W.  longitude  from  London, 
and  25  and  31°  N.  latitude.  West  Florida  extends  from  the  limits  of 
East  Florida,  with  the  same  northern  boundaries  to  the  river  Perdido, 
which  divides  it  on  the  west  from  Alabama. — This  division  has  ceased 
to  exist,  and  the  two  Flori^as  constitute  one  government  By  the  treaty 
of  cession  from  Spain,  it  has  become  an  integral  part  of  the  American 
republic,  and  will,  soon  have  a sufficient  population  to  claim  admission 
into  the  union  of  the  states. 

Climate.  This  may  be  considered  in  some  respects  a tropical  climate. 
The  northern  belt,  indeed,  which  lies  along  the  southern  limits  of  Georgia 
and  Alabama,  partakes  of  the  cooler  temperature  of  those  states,  and 
seems  to  be  beyond  the  range  of  the  proper  cultivation  of  the  Otaheite  and 
African  sugar  cane.  The  ribband  cane  will,  probably,  flourish  in  this 
division.  The  regular  range  of  the  thermometer  throughout  the  Floridas, 
fiom  June  to  the  autumnal  equinox,  is  between  84  and  88°  Fahrenheit. 
It  sometimes  rises  above  100°;  but  this  range  occurs  as  seldom,  as  in 
the  adjoining  states.  The  mercury,  probably,  ranges  lower  through  the 
summer,  than  in  the  interior  of  Alabama  and  Georgia.  Even  in  winter, 
the  influence  of  the  unclouded  and  vertical  sun  is  always  uncomfortable. 
In  the  peninsular  parts,  there  are  sometimes  slight  frosts,  but  water  never 
freezes.  The  most  delicate  orange  trees  bear  fruit  in  full  perfection,  and 
the  fiuit  is  remarkably  delicious.  There  is  generally  a sky  of  mild 
southern  breezes,  and  an  air  of  great  purity.  But  the  evening  air 


azure. 


190 


FLORIDA, 


is  particularly  humid,  and  the  dev/s  excessive-  Early  in  winter  the  rainy 
season  commences.  In  February  and  March,  there  are  thunder  storms 
by  night,  followed  by  clear  and  beautiful  days.  In  June,  the  sultry  sea- 
son commences,  and  terminates  with  the  autumnal  equinox.  But,  take 
the  climate  altogether,  there  is  not,  perhaps,  on  the  globe  a more  delight- 
ful one,  between  the  months  of  October  and  June.  The  peninsular 
parts,  being  near  the  tropics,  have  a higher  temperature,  than  West  Florida, 
which  is  occasionally  fanned  by  Canadian  breezes,  that  sweep  the  Missis- 
sippi valley. — The  peninsula  is  subject  to  tornadoes,  like  the  West  In- 
dies. On  the  Atlantic  side  of  Florida,  the  eastern,  and  in  West  Florida 
the  western  trade  winds  prevail.  But  in  West  Florida,  after  severe  thun- 
der storms,  northern  breezes  alternate  through  the  summer.  About  the 
time  of  the  autumnal  equinox,  hurricanes  and  destructive  gales  some- 
times occur.  In  the  northern  parts  the  influence  of  tire  cold  breezes 
from  the  northern  regions,  which  are  covered  with  snow,  are  sensibly 
felt;  and  then  ice  forms'on  the  northern  exposures  of  buildings.  There 
are,  in  particular  seasons,  indications  of  considerable  humidity  over  all  the 
country.  Though  there  are  never  heats  and  humidity  to  cause  sugar  and 
salt  to  melt , as  some  writers  have  asserted.  Perhaps  there  is  no  point  in 
the  Floridas,  where  humidity  is  more  manifest,  than  about  St.  Augustine; 
yet  in  Spanish  times,  the  citizens  of  Havanna  used  to  resort  there,  dur- 
ing the  sickly  months  for  health,  as  a kind  of  Montpelier,  and  perhaps  no 
southern  place  at  present  is  found  more  congenial  to  the  constitution  of 
the  people  of  the  United  States.  The  same  sudden  variations  of  tempe- 
rature are  felt  here,  especially  in  the  winter,  that  constitute  so  distinct  a 
feature  in  the  climate  of  all  the  south-western  parts  of  the  United  States. 
The  thermometer  sometimes  ranges  30°  in  a single  winter  day. — North- 
ern people  would  never  conceive,  except  by  inspection,  how  long  fires 
are  comfortable,  and  how  great  a portion  of  the  year  requires  them,  in  a 
climate,  where  rivers  never  skim  with  ice.  From  June  to  October,  the 
frequent  rains,  and  the  unremitting  heat  are  apt  to  generate  the  fevers  of 
southern  climates,  especially  in  the  vicinity  of  ponds  and  marshes.  Where 
fields  are  flooded  for  rice,  and  indigo  plantations  are  made,  it  is  invaria- 
bly sickly.  On  the  other  hand,  it  may  be  safely  asserted,  that  the  dis- 
tricts of  Florida,  remote  from  marshes,  swamps,  and  stagnant  waters,  are 
healthy.  The  ever  verdant  pine  forests  cover  a great  extent  of  this 
country,  and  these  in  the  mind  of  an  inhabitant,  of  the  south  are  ever  ss- 
sociated  with  the  idea  of  health.  At  least  two  thirds  of  this  country  are 
covered  with  this  timber. 

Productions . The  vegetable  kingdom  in  Florida  has  a greater  variety 
than  any  other  part  of  the  United  States.  In  the  comparatively  richer  soils,, 
in  the  hammock  lands,  on  the  river  courses,  and  the  richer  swamps  noth- 


FLORIDA, 


19? 


mg  can  exceed  the  luxuriance  and  grandeur  of  the  shrubs  and  trees. 
The  pine  forest  is  almost  boundless  and  inexhaustible ; and  the  pines  are 
of  an  extraordinary  height  and  beauty. — What  is  called  white  cedar  and 
cypress,  abound  in  the  vast  swamps,  and  this  timber  grows  of  great  size 
Live  oaks  are  frequent,  and  the  tree  developes  itself  here  in  full  perfection. 

Our  government  commenced  a plantation  of t this  invaluable  species  of 
tree  at  Deer  Point,  in  which,  in  the  year  1829,  upwards  of  76,000  were 
growing  in  a flourishing  condition.  The  secretary  of  the  navy  proposed 
to  abandon  the  cultivation,  thinking  that  the  country  could  never  want 
live  oak,  when  it  is  indigenous  from  St.  Marys  to  the  Sabine.  But  there 
is  reason  to  believe,  that  the  amount  of  live  oak  in  Florida  and  Louisiana 
has  been  much  overrated.  Experience -has  proved,  that  they  are  easily 
cultivated.  Groves  of  these  majestic  trees  are  often  seen  in  different 
parts  of  Florida,  open,  and  arranged  in  regular  forms  surpassing  the 
beauty  of  the  famous  parks  of  the  English  mansions;  probably  the  plan- 
tations  of  a former  generation,  of  whose  civilization  and  taste  these 
trees  are  noble  memorials.  A large,  detbched  live  oak,  seen  at  a distance 
bn  the  verge  of  a savanna,  or  on  the  shore  of  a river,  spreading  like  an 
immense  umbrella,  its  head  of  such  perfect  verdure,  and  so  beautifully 
rounded,  is  a splendid  object  on  the  landscape.  The  cabbage  palm  chcema - 
rops  palmetto , is  common.  This  superb  tree  sometimes  raises  a clear 
shaft  eighty  feet  high.  The  timber  resists  the  gulf  worm.  Hats,  baskets 
and  mats  are  manufactured  from  the  leaves.  The  young  head  at  the 
stem  is  edible  and  nutritive.  Wild  animals  feed  on  the  berries.  It  is 
not  seen  west  of  St.  Andrews  Bay.  The  deep  swamps  present  the  cus- 
tomary spectacle  of  innumerable  cypress  columns,  rising  from  immense 
buttresses,  with  interlaced  arms,  at  their  summit,  showing  the  aspect  of  a 
canopy  of  verdure  reared  upon  pillars.  On  the  hammock  lands,  the 
beautiful  dog  wood  trees  spread  their  horizontal  branches,  and  interweav- 
ing them  with  each  other,  form  a fine  deep  shade,  which  completely 
excludes  the  sun,  and  suppresses  the  growth  of  all  kinds  of  vegetation 
under  them ; presenting  in  some  places,  for  miles  together  a smooth 
shaven  lawn,  and  an  impervious  shade.  Here  is  the  beautiful  pawpaw, 
with  a stem  perfectly  straight,  smooth  and  silver  colored,  and  with  a 
conical  top  of  splendid  foliage  always  green,  and  fruit  of  the  richest  ap- 
pearance. Titi  is  a shrub  filling  the  southern  swamps,  as  the  elder  does 
at  the  north.  It  flowers  in  masses  of  white  ornamental  blossoms,  and 
singular  strings  of  covered  seeds,  that  hang  on  the  bushes  till  winter. 
Five  or  six  species  of  pine  are  found  here.  The  southern  extremity  of 
the  peninsula  of  Florida  is  very  rocky.  Instead  of  the  trees  and  shrubs, 
which  are  found  in  the  rest  of  the  country,  it  is  covered  with  Mastic, 
lignumvitsB,  gum  elemy,  ovino,  wild  fig  and  mangrove. 


198 


FLORIDA. 


There  are  many  traces  of  ruined  towers,  desolated  Indian  villages, 
indications  of  former  habitancy,  and  much  more  cultivation,  than  is  now 
seen  in  the  country.  Wherever  these  traces  of  former  population  are 
observed  are  those  groves  of  lime,  orange,  peach  and  fig  trees,  that  are 
spoken  of  by  travellers,  as  having  been  found  here  indigenous  to  the  soil. 
Wild  grape  vines  abound,  t. Myrica  odorcita , or  candle  berry  laurel  is 
common.  From  the  berries  of  this  shrub  is  prepared  an  excellent  kind 
of  wax  for  candles.  It  is  not  unlike  the  bay  berry  of  the  north,  except 
that  the  shrub  is  taller,  and  the  berries  larger.  Among  the  flowers  is  the 
magnificent  Hybiscus , which,  though  an  herbaceous  and  annual  plant, 
grows  to  the  height  of  ten  feet,  branching  regularly  in  the  form  of  a sharp 
cone,  and  is  covered  with  large,  expanded  and  crimson  flowers,  which 
unfold  in  succession  during  all  the  summer  months.  Tillandsia  usneo- 
ides , long  moss,  or  Spanish  beard  is  common  here,  and  has  the  same 
appearance  as  will  be  hereafter  described  in  Louisiana.  It  hangs  down 
in  festoons,  sometimes  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  length,  like  the  pendent  stems 
of  the  weeping  willow.  Waved  by  the  wind,  it  catches  from  branch  to 
branch,  and  sometimes  fills  the  interval  between  the  trees,  as  a curtain. 
It  has  a long  trumpet  shaped  flower,  and  seeds  so  fine,  as  to  be  hardly 
visible.  These  seeds  undoubtedly  fix  in  the  b$rk  of  the  trees;  and  this 
parasitic  plant  there  finds  its  appropriate  soil.  It  will  not  grow  on  a 
dead  tree.  Cattle,  deer  and  horses  feed  on  it,  while  it  is  fresh.  When 
properly  rotted,  and  prepared,  which  is  done  much  after  the  manner,  in 
which  hemp  is  prepared,  it  is  an  admirable  article  for  mattresses,  and 
stuffing  fbr  cushions,  saddles,  coach  seats,  and  the  like.  The  fibre  when 
properly  prepared,  is  elastic  and  incorruptible,  and  in  many  respects 
resembles  horse  hair,  both  in  appearance  and  use.  The  Spanish  and 
natives  use  it  for  horse  collars,  coarse  harnessing  and  ropes. 

The  low  savannas  are  covered,  like  the  prairies  of  the  upper  country, 
with  a prodigious  growth  of  grass  and  flowers.  In  the  swamps,  the  cane 
brakes  are  of  great  height  and  thickness,  and  the  rushes,  and  other 
meadow  plants  grow  to  an  uncommon  size.  Some  of  the  reed  canes  are 
seen  from  thirty  to  forty  feet  in  height.  The  lakes  and  creeping  bayous, 
especially  in  summer,  are  covered  with  a most  curious  growth  of  aquatic 
plants,  called  by  botanists,  pistia  stratiotes.  They  somewhat  resemble 
the  .vegetable,  commonly  called  house  leek,  and  have  a beautiful  elliptical 
leaf.  It  is  commonly,  but  not  correctly  reported  to  vegetate  on  the 
surface  of  the  water.  When  the  roots  of  thousands  of  these  plants  have 
twined  together,  so  as  to  form  a large  and  compact  surface,  the  mass  is 
often  drifted  by  the  wind,  or  current,  to  a considerable  distance.  This 
is  the  appearance,  no  doubt,  which  has  given  origin  to  the  story  of  floating 
islands  in  the  waters  of  this  country.  This  singular  and  beautiful 


FLORIDA®. 


199 


vegetation,  spreads  a verdant  plain  over  the  waters,  for  a great  extent.— 
Under  it  the  fishes  dart,  and  the  alligators  pursue  their  unwieldy  gambols, 
and  multitudes  of  water  fowls  are  seen  pattering  their  bills  among  the 
leaves.  The  herbarium,  though  exceedingly  rich,  and  diversified,  is  not 
materially  different  from  that,  to  be  described  hereafter. 

The  cultivated  vegetables  are  maize,  beans,  potatoes,  especially  sweet 
potatoes,  it  being  an  admirable  country  for  that  fine  vegetable,  pumpkins, 
melons,  rice,  and  a variety  of  esculent  roots,  particularly  a species  of 
arum , which  is  much  cultivated  in  the  maritime  parts,  and  has  a large 
turnip  shaped  root,  resembling,  when  roasted,  or  boiled,  a yam  in  taste. 

The  pistache  is  a kind  of  nut  in  pods,  growing  in  the  ground,  abund- 
antly in  sandy  lands  much  cultivated  both  by  the  Seminoles'and  Ameri- 
cans. It  is  baked  or  roasted  in  the  shell,  and  is  used  by  confectioners, 
as  a sweet  meat. 

Tobacco,  cotton,  indigo,  rice  and  the  sugar  cane  will  be  the  principal 
articles  of  culture.  The  African  and  Otaheite  cane  flourish  remarkably 
well  in  the  southern  parts,  on  the  hammock  and  rich  lands,  and  planters 
are  beginning  to  turn  their  attention  very  much  to  the  cultivation  of  this 
article.  The  coffee  tree  has  been  tried  on  the  peninsula ; and-  coffee  can 
unquestionably  be  raised  there;  but  whether  of  a kind,  or  in  quantities 
to  justify  cultivation,  has  not  yet  been  sufficiently  experimented.  The 
olive  has  been  sufficiently  tried  to  prove,  that  it  flourishes,  and  bears 
well.  A species  of  Cactus  is  common,  on  which  the  Cochineal  fly  feeds; 
and  this  will  probably  become  an  important  article  of  manufacture.  A 
species  of  cabinet  wood  of  great  beauty  grows  here,  which  they  call 
bastard  mahogany.  It  is  probably  the  Laurus  Borbonia. 

Minerals.  The  country  is  not  rich  in  this  department,  although  it  is 
affirmed,  .that  several  kinds  of  precious  stones  have  been  found  here,  as 
amethysts,  turquoises,  and  lapis  lazuli*  Ochres  of  different  colors,  pit 
coal  and  iron  ore  are  abundant.  We  have  seen  beautiful  aggregations 
of  little  circular  nodules  of  marine  petrifactions,  and  splendid  specimens 
of  coral  and  marine  shells  found  on  the  shores  of  the  gulf.  On  Musquito 
river,  there  is  a warm  mineral  spring,  pouring  out  like  many  other  springs 
of  the  country,  a vast  volume  of  water  sufficiently  large  to  fill  a basin, 
in  which  large  boats  may  float.  The  water  is0sulphureous,  and  is  esteemed 
efficacious  in  rheumatic,  and  other  affections.  It  is  remarkably  pellucid, 
and  filled  with  fishes. 

Animals . There  are  prairie  and  common  wolves,  wild  cats,  panthers, 
foxes,  rabbits,  many  beautiful  kinds  of  squirrels,  raccoons,  Mexican 
oppcssums  and  woodchucks.  The  common  brown  bear  i&.yet  seen  in 
the  swamps.  It  is  a fine -grazing  country,  and  grass  abounds  in  the  open 
pine  woods  and  savannas,  and  the  swamps  furnish  inexhaustible  supplies 


200 


FLORIDA. 


of  winter  range.  Thus  it  is  an  admirable  country  for  raising  stock.  The 
rearing  of  cattle  and  horses,  in  times  past,  has  been  the  chief  employ- 
ment of  the  small  planters.  They  number  their  cattle  by  hundreds,  and 
sometimes  by  thousands.  There  are  immense  droves  of  deer,  and  this 
is  the  paradise  of  hunters,  though  in  many  places  the  Indians  complain 
of  the  scarcity  of  game.  Wolves  sometimes  assemble  in  great  numbers, 
and  when  united  or  single,  are  always  formidable  enemies  to  the  folds 
-and  vacheries  of  the  planters.  Bears  have  been  killed  here  of  six 
hundred  pounds  weight.  The  inhabitants  esteem  their-flesh  a great 
luxury. 

Birds.  The  ornithology  of  Florida  is  probably  the  richest  in  North 
America.  There  are  here  immense  numbers  and  varieties  of  water 
fowls,  especially  during  the  winter,  and  in  the  sleeping  inlets  on  the  shores 
of  the  gulf,  on  the  bayous  and  creeks.  In  the  woods  and  stationary  through 
the  winter  are  vultures,  hawks,  rooks,  jays,  parroquets,  woodpeckers, 
pigeons,  turkeys,  herons,  cranes,  curlews,  cormorants,  pelicans,  plovers, 
blue  birds,  mocking  birds,  red  birds,  and  a great  variety  of  the  sparrow 
tribe.  The  dog  wood  groves  are  the  resort  of  vast  numbers  af  the  small 
and  singing  birds.  Among  the  remarkable  birds,  are  the  snake  birds,  a 
species  of  cormorant  of  great  beauty. 

The  robin  red  breast  stays  the  whole  year  in  Florida.  The  red  spar- 
row is  a beautiful  variety  of  the  species  found  here.  The  crane,  grus 
Pratensis.,  is  found  here  in  immense  numbers.  By  some  their  flesh  is 
valued  as  much  as  that  of  the  turkey.  The  crying  bird  is  a pelican, 
remarkable  for  singular  plumage,  and  its  harsh  cry.  The  wood  pelican 
is  nearly  three  feet  high,  and  is  seen  stalking  along  the  marshes,  with  his 
long,  crooked  beak,  resting,  like  a scythe,  upon  his  breast.  The  painted 
vulture  is  one  of  the  curious  birds  seen  on  the  Savannas,  gorging  on  the 
serpents,  frogs  and  lizzards  roasted  by  the  periodical  burning  of  the  grass 
plains.  The  great  Savanna  crane,  when  standing  erect,  is  nearly  five 
feet  high.  They  fly  in  squadrons,  and  have  a singular  uniformity  of 
flying,  and  alighting.  A striking  feature  of  this  country  is  the  number, 
variety  and  splendor  of  the  birds,  especially  those  of  the  aquatic  species. 

Fish.  The  coasts,  sounds  and  inlets  abound  in  excellont  fish;  and 
the  inland  lakes  and  rivers  are  stored  with  such  multitudes  of  them,  as 
can  not  be  adequately  conceived,  except  by  those,  who  have  seen  them. 
They  are  geuerally  of  the  same  kinds,  that  we  have  named  under  this 
head,  in  our  previous  remarks  upon  the  Mississippi  Valley. 

We  may  observe  in  general,  that  the  fish  of  this  region,  especially  on 
the  sea  coast,  are  fine.  The  fish,  here  called  the  sun-fish,  is  the  same 
with  the  trout  of  Louisiana.  It  is  an  excellent  fish,  and  no  angling  can 
exceed  it.  It  takes  the  bait  with  a spring.  What  is  a matter  of  curiosity, 


FLORIDA. 


201 


to  all  the  recent  settlers  in  the  country,  is  the  multitudes  of  fish,  that  are 
seen  at  the  mouths  of  the  immense  springs,  that  burst  forth  from  the 
ground,  of  a size  at  once  to  form  considerable  rivers.  When  the  channel 
of  these  subterranean  streams  is  struck,  by  perforating  the  earth  at  any 
distance  from  the  fountain,  the  hook,  thrown  in  at  the  perforation,  is 
eagerly  taken  by  the  fish,  and  fine  angling  may  be  had,  as  if  fishing  in  a 
well.  The  most  common  kinds  are  the  sun  fish,  cat  fish,  silver,  or  white 
bream,  and  the  black,  or  blue  bream,  stingray,  scale  flounders,  spotted 
bass,  sheep’s  head,  drum,  shad,  &c.  Oysters,  and  other  shell  fish  are 
excellent  and  abundant.  Alligators  and  alligator  gars  are  the  common 
enemies  of  the  finny  tribes,  and  they  here  feed,  and  fatten  on  the  fish. — • 
The  swamps,  lakes  and  inlets  so  abundantly  stored  with  fish,  frogs, 
insects,  and  every  kind  of  small  animals,  that  constitute  the  natural  food 
of  alligators,  would  lead  us  to  expect,  to  find  this  animal  in  great  num- 
bers. There  are  all  the  varieties  of  lizzards,  that  we  have  enumerated, 
as  belonging  to  the  western  country  in  general.  The  lakes  and  rivers 
abound  in  tortoises.  The  great,  soft  shelled  fresh  water  tortoise,  when 
of  a large  size,  has  been  found  weighing  fifty  pounds,  and  is  esteemed  by 
epicures,  delicious  food.  The  gopher  is  a curious  kind  of  land  tortoise, 
and  is  by  many  prized  for  the  table.  There  are  vast  numbers  and  varieties 
of  frogs,  and  the  music  of  the  Rana  boans , or  bull  frog  is  heard  in  con- 
cert with  the  cry  of  the  Spanish  whip-poor-will,  the/croakirig  of  tortoises, 
and  the  innumerable  peepings  and  gruntings  of  the  amphibious  animals 
and  reptiles  of  the  lakes  and  marshes. 

Serpents.  They  are  for  the  mcst  part  the  same  as  have  been  described 
already  under  this  head.  Here  is  seOn  the  ribband  snake,  of  a clear 
vermilion  color,  variegated  with  transverse  zones  of  dark  brown.  It  is 
found  about  old  buildings  and  is  harmless.  Here,  also,  is  the  chicken 
snake,  swift,  slender,  long  and  harmless.  Its  prey  is  chickens. — The 
mud  asp  is  a serpent,  that  lives  in  the  muddy  creeks,  of  a livid  color, 
and  easily  mistaken  for  an  eel.  Persons  incautiously  wading  in  the  mud 
have  been  bitten,  and  the  bite  has  proved  mortal.  The  coach  whip  snake 
inhabits  the  pine  barrens.  It  exactly  resembles  a coach  whip  with  a black 
handle,  but  is  perfectly  harmless.  The  bull  snake  is  common  on  the 
savannas.  It  is  a large,  fierce  and  venomous  looking  snake,  uttering, 
when  irritated,  a loud  hissing  noise;  but  its  bite  is  harmless.  The  coach 
whip  snake  is  common.  It  is  an  animal  of  beautiful  colors,  six  feet  long, 
and  as  slender,  as  a walking  stick. — The  glass  snake,  which  we  have 
described  elsewhere,  is  seen  here.  Red  and  black  toads  are  common. 
The  house  frog  indicates  rain,  by  being  uncommonly  noisy,  before  it 
happens.  The  little  green  garden  frog  changes  color,  like  the  camelion; 
and  its  note  exactly  imitates  the  barking  of  a puppy.  Indeed  so  great  is 

26 


202 


FLORIDA. 


the  number  and  variety  of  these  reptiles,  that  it  is  the  standing  jest,  when 
speaking  of  Florida,  to  say,  that  every  acre  will  yield  forty  bushels  of 
frogs,  and  alligators  enough  to  fence  it. 

Insects.  Incredible  numbers  of  the  small  insects,  called  ephemerae, 
cover  the  surfaces  of  the  lakes  and  rivers,  supplying  abundant  food  for 
the  birds,  frogs,  and  fishes.  Clouds  of  the  gaudiest  butterflies  hover 
among  the  shrubs  and  flowers.  Gnats  and  musquitos,  as  might  be 
expected  in  such  a country,  are  extremely  frequent  and  annoying,  especi- 
ally about  the  rice  and  indigo  plantations,  being  ordinarily  found  in 
greatest  numbers,  where  it  is  most  unhealthy.  On  the  open,  dry  savannas 
they  are  neither  so  frequent,  nor  troublesome;  and  they  decrease  in  num- 
bers, as  cultivation  advances.  The  jigger,  red  bug  and  musquito  are 
most  annoying. 

Bays , Inlets  and  Sounds.  From  the  uncommon  levelness  of  the 
country  on  the  sea  shore,  and  from  the  numerous  rivers,  that  intersect  it, 
there  is  no  part  of  the  world,  that  for  the  same  extent  has  so  many  inlets, 
sounds,  narrow  passes  of  water  between  islands,  and  communications 
of  one  point  of  the  shore  with  another,  by  an  inland  channel.  The  whole 
coast  is  almost  a continued  line  of  4,hese  sounds;  and  it  is  beyond  a 
doubt,  that  at  a comparatively  small  expense,  a canal  communicating  with 
the  sea,  in  an  hundred  places,  might  be  made  from  New  Orleans  to  the 
river  St.  Marys.  From  this  river  to  the  Sabine,  and  we  may  add,  through 
Texas,  almost  every  river,  that  enters  the  gulf  just  before  its  entrance, 
spreads  into  a broad  lake,  communicating  with  the  sea,  and  the  water  is 
partially  salt.  From  one  of  these  lakes  to  another,  there  is  often  a wide 
natural  canal,  with  from  four  to  six  feet  water.  Those  on  the  shores  of 
Florida  are  too  numerous  to  mention  with  particularity.  Perdido  bay,  divi- 
ding Alabama  fiom  Florida,  is  thirty  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  six  broad. 
Pensacola  bay  is  thirty  miles  long,  and  from  four  to  seven  wide.  It  receives 
the  rivers  Escambia,  Yellow,  Cold  water,  Black  water,  and  Cedar  creek. 
The  bay  of  Pensacola  affords  the  best  harbor  on  the  whole  gulf  shore. 
Bayou  Texas  enters  from  the  north,  a mile  above  Pensacola,  and  is  four 
miles  long,  and  a fourth  of  a mile  wide.  Bayou  Mulatto  enters  the  east  side 
of  Escambia  bay.  St.  Rosa  sound  connects  the  bays  of  Pensacola  and 
Chactawhatchee.  This  is  a charming  sheet  of  water,  forty  miles  long, 
and  from  one  and  a half  to  two  miles  wide.  A narrow  peninsula  divides 
Pensacola  bay  from  this  sound,  for  thirty  miles.  It  yields  five  feet  water 
in  its  whole  length.  Chactawhatchee  bay  is  forty  miles  long,  and  from 
seven  to  fifteen  wide.  It  receives  a number  of  creeks,  is  much  affected 
by  storms,  and  was  formerly  the  seat  of  a profitable  fishery.  St.  Andrews’ 
bay  is  protected  by  a number  of  small  islands,  receives  some  navigable 
creeks,  has  deep  water,  is  twelve  miles  long,  and  five  miles  wide.  St. 


FLORIDA® 


203 


Joseph’s  bay  is  twenty  miles  long,  and  seven  miles  wide.  Appalachicola 
is  twelve  miles  long,  and  from  four  to  six  miles  wide.  Ocklockney  is 
is  twelve  miles  long,  and  two  broad.  Appalachy  bay  is  a circular  inden- 
tation, in  which  is  the  port  of  St.  Marks,  the  nearest  point  to  Tallapassee 
the  seat  of  Government.  Histahatchee  offers  a safe  harbor  for  small 
vessels.  Vacassa  bay  is  the  eastern-most  bay  in  west  Florida. 

Rivers . The  rivers,,  that  have  courses  of  considerable  length  rise  in 
the  high  lands  of  Georgia,  Alabama  and  Mississippi.  St.  Marys  is  a 
very  considerable  stream,  that  falls  into  the  Atlantic,  by  a broad  mouth. 
It  is  for  a long  way  the  separating  line  between  Florida  and  Georgia. 

St.  Johns,  a very  considerable  river,  rises  in  the  centre  of  the  peninsula, 
and  flowing  with  a gentle  current  northwardly,  broadens  to  a wide  chan- 
nel, and  passes  through  several  kikes,  the  largest  of  which  is  St.  George, 
twenty  miles  long,  and  twelve  broad,  and  falls  into  the  sea  forty  miles 
south  of  St,  George.  It  has  been  navigated  by  the  steam  boat  George 
Washington,  the  first  that  ever  floated  on  the  waters  of  Florida.  She 
took  the  inland  passage  from  Savannah,  and  arrived  at  Jacksonville  on 
the  St.  Johns  in  thirty  four  hours.  Indian  river  has  a course  from  north 
to  south,  and  empties  into  the  gulf.  Most  of  the  rivers,  that  fall  into 
the  gulf,  have  their  sources  in  Georgia. — The  most  important  of  these  is 
Appalachicola,  which  divides  East  from  West  Florida.  It  is  formed  by 
the  junction  of  two  considerable  rivers,  that  rise  in  the  subsiding  Appal- 
achian ridges  in  Georgia,  the  Flint  and  the  Chattahochy.  It  is  the  longest, 
largest  and  most  important  river  in  Florida,  and  falls  into  Appalachy  bay. 
The  small  river,  St.  Marks,  empties  into  the  same  bay.  Escambia  is  a 
considerable  river,  and  empties  into  Pensacola  bay.  Perdido,  which 
forms  the  boundary  between  Florida  and  Alabama,  falls  into  the  gulf 
four  leagues  west  of  Pensacola  bay.  There  are,  also,  the  Nassau,  St. 
Nicholas,  Ocklockney,  Corelia,  St.  Pedro,  Charlotte,  Hillsborough,  Su- 
waney,  Vilchees,  Conecuh,  Alaqua,  Chactawhatchee,  Econfina,  Oscilla, 
Acheenahatchee,  Chatahatch.ee,  Histahatchee,  and  various  others,  which 
rise  in  Florida,  and  at  different  points  fall  into  the  gulf.  There  are  a 
great  number  of  rivers,  not  here  enumerated,  that  rise  in  the  pine  forests, 
have  considerable  courses,  and  fall  into  arms  and  inlets  of  the  gulf.  The 
country  is  as  yet  scarcely  susceptible  of  accurate  topographical  informa- 
tion, and  is  so  intersected  with  rivers,  and  accommodated  with  inlets, 
and  the  soil  is  so  level,  and  the  communications  from  one  point  to  another 
by  water  so  easy  that  there  is  no  place  in  the  territory  at  any  considera- 
ble distance  from  water  communication.  The  entrances  to  most  of  the 
rivers  have  a bar,  that  unfits  them  for  the  navigation  of  vessels  drawing 
much  water.  Most  of  these  rivers  are  susceptible  of  considerable  extent 


204 


FLORIDA. 


of  schooner  navigation,  and  they  are  generally  capable  of  stean\  boat 
navigation. 

Islands.  The  sea  islands  on  the  Florida  shore  arc  not  of  much  im- 
portance. St.  Rosa  island  is  a long  and  narrow  slip  parallel  to  the  coast, 
between  St.  Rosa  bay  and  Pensacola.  The  Tortugas  are  a group  of 
islands,  opposite  the  southern-most  point  of  East  Florida.  They  are 
covered  with  Mangrove  bushes,  and  extend  from  north-east  to  south-west. 
Anastatia  is  opposite  to  St.  Augustine,  and  divided  from  the  main  land 
by  a narrow  channel,  and  is  twenty-five  miles  in  length.  They  are  covered 
with  pine  trees  and  sand  banks,  and  have  a sterile  soil.  On  the  West 
Florida  shore  are  Hummoch,  Crooked,  St.  Vincent’s,  St.  George’s,  Dog, 
and  James’  islands. 

Curiosities.  These  consist  in  a great  many  natural  caverns,  sinking 
rivers,  great  springs  and  natural  bridges.  Among  the  caverns,  the  most 
remarkable  are  Arch  Cave,  and  Ladies  Cave.  The  first  descends 
under  a vast  lime  stone  rock,  At  a considerable  depth  in*  the  earth,  a 
cavern  opens,  one  hundred  feet  wide,  and  fifty  feet  high.  .From  this 
leads  off*  a kind  of  gothic  arch  for  a long  distance,  at  the  end  of  which 
is  a running  stream  twenty  feet  wide,  and  five  feet  deep.  Beyond  this 
is  a hajl  one  hundred  feet  long,  with  columns  and  stalactites.  ' This  cave 
has  been  explored  four  hundred  yards.  It  abounds  in  sparry  crystalliza- 
tions, The  Ladies  Cave  is  still  more  spacious.  This,  too,  has  its  galle- 
ries, chambers,  domes,  sparry  columns,  and  its  cbld  and  deep  river 
winding  through  its  dark  passages.  Two  miles  from  this  cave  is  the 
natural  bridge  over  Chapola  river.  The  Econfina  river  passes  under  a 
natural  bridge.  The  antiquities  of  West.  Florida,  as  great  roads,  cause- 
ways, forts  and  other  indications  of  former  habitancy,  are  striking  and 
inexplicable  curiosities.  None  are  more  so,  than  the  regular  and  noble 
plantations  and  avenues  of  live  oaks. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Tallahassee  a small  pond  was  recently  formed  by 
the  sinking  of  the  earth,  which  fell,  with  all  its  trees,  with  a tremendous 
crash.  The  sink  is  perpendicular,  and  fifty  feet  deep  before  we  arrive  at 
the  water,  the  depth  of  which  is  not  ascertained. 

Fountains , Lakes  and  Springs.  There  seems  to  be  over  all  this 
country,  a substratum  of  soft  stones  at  equal  depths,  which  is  cavernous, 
and  admits  numberless  subterranean  brooks  and  streams  to  have  their 
courses  far  under  the  ground.  In  places  they  burst  out  in  the  form  of 
those  vast  boiling  springs,  which  form  rivers  at  a short  distance  from 
their  outlets,  and  by  their  frequency,  their  singular  forms,  the  transpa^ 
rency  of  their  waters,  and  the  multitude  of  their  fishes,  constitute  one  of 
the  most  striking  curiosities  of  the  country.  Among  an  hundred,  which 


FLORIDA. 


205 


might  be  named,  and  which  have  created  the  vulgar  impression,  that  there 
is  every  where  a prodigious  cavern  beneath  the  surface  of  the  whole 
•country,  the  most  remarkable  is  that,  twelve  miles  from  Tallahasse,  which 
is  the  source  of  Wakulla  river. — It  is  of  a size  to  be  boatable  immediately 
below  the  fountain.  A mile  below  its  source  the  channel  becomes  so 
impeded  with  flags,  rushes  and  river  weeds,  that  a boat  can  scarcely  be 
propelled  through  them.  Suddenly  this  immense  spring  breaks  upon  the 
eye,  of  a circular  form,  and  in  extent,  like  a little  lake.  The  water  is 
almost  as  pellucid,  as  air.  It  has  been  sounded  with  a line  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  fathoms,  before  bottom  was  found.  From  its  almost 
unfathomable  depth,  from  the  serial  transparency  of  its  waters,  and  per- 
haps also  from  the  admixture  of  sulphuret  of  lime,  which  it  holds  in 
solution,  it  has  a cerulean  tinge,  like  that,  which  every  voyager  has  ad- 
mired in  the  waters  of  the  gulf.  To  a person  placed  in  a skiff,  in  the 
centre  of  this  splendid  fountain  basin,  the  appearance  of  the  mild  azure 
vault  above  and  the  transparent  depth  below,  on  which  the  floating  clouds 
and  the  blue  concave  above  are  painted,  and  repeated  with  an  indescriba- 
ble softness,  create  a kind  of  pleasing  dizziness,  and  a novel  train  of 
sensations,  among  which  the  most  distinguishable  is  a feeling,  as  if  sus- 
pended between  two  firmaments.  The  impression  only  ceases,  when  the 
boat  approaches  the  edge  of  the  basin  near  enough,  to  enable  you  to 
perceive  the  outlines  of  the  neighboring  trees  pictured  on  the  margin  of 
the  basin.  It  has  been  asserted,  that  lime  stone  water  in  its  utmost 
purity  has  less  refractive  powers  for  light,  than  free  stone  water.  The 
water,  probably,  from  the  presence  of  the  sulphuret  of  lime,  is  slightly 
nauseous  to  the  taste.  Beautiful  hammock  lands  rise  from  the  northern 
acclivity  of  this  basin.  It  was  the  site  of  the  English  factory  in  forme? 
days.  Here  resided  the  famous  Ambrister.  The  force,  which  throws 
up  this  vast  mass  of  waters  from  its  subterranean  fountains,  may  be 
imagined,  when  we  see  this  pellucid  water  swelling  up  from  the  depths, 
as  though  it  were  a cauldron  of  boiling  water.  It  is  twelve  miles  from 
St.  Marks,  and  twenty  from  the  ocean.  Mickasucke  Lake,  fifteen  miles 
north-east  from  Tallahassee,  is  twelve  miles  long.  On  its  shores  many 
of  the  old  Indian  fields  are  covered  with  peach  trees.  Lake  Jackson, 
north-west  from  Tallahassee,  is  eight  miles  long,  and  three  broad.  The 
richest  lands  in  the  country  are  on  its  borders.  Lake  lamony,  fourteen 
miles  north  of  Tallahasse,  is  eight  miles  long,  and  three  broad.  It  is 
noted  for  the  abundance  of  its  fish.  Old  Tallahasse  Lake  is  near  the  seat 
of  Government.  Chefixico’s  old  town  was  on  its  south  shore.  Inundation 
lake  is  newly  formed  by  the  inundation  of  the  Chapola.  Though  deep, 
the  forest's  are  still  standing  in  it,  and  it  is  twenty  miles  long,  and  seven 
broad. 


206 


FLORIDA. 


The  Brig  Spring  of  Chapola  throws  out  a considerable  river  from  between 
the  high  rocks  on  its  shores.  The  Chapola  river  is  almost  wholly  form- 
ed from  large  springs.  The  Big  Spring  of  Chactawatchee  is  the  chief 
source  of  that  river.  The  Waucissa  spring  discharges  a very  considera- 
ble stream. 

Savages.  The  Seminoles  were  once  a numerous  and  powerful  tribe, 
as  were  also  the  Baton  Rougq§,  or  Red  Sticks.  Their  numbers  were 
much  reduced  by  the  terrible  but  deserved  chastisement  which  they  re- 
ceived during  the  late  war.  Numerous  small  tribes,  and  divisions  of 
tribes,  and  congregated  bodies  of  refugees  from  different  foreign  tribes 
are  dispersed  in  the  forests  and  savannas  of  this  country.  They  used  to 
find  in  the  spontaneous  production  of  the  soil,  and  in  the  abundance  of 
fish  and  game,  a superfluity  of  subsistence. 

The  Indians  of  this  region  are  an  alert,  active  and  athletic  people,  fond 
of  war,  of  gay,  volatile,  and  joyous  dispositions,  and  the  merriest  of  sav- 
ages. They  have  the  common  propensity  for  intoxication  and  gambling. 
They  are  active  and  expert  hunters;  and,  by  the  sale  of  bear,  deer,  pan- 
ther and  wolf  skins,  horses  and  cattle,  bees  wax,  honey,  venison  and 
such  articles  generally,  as  are  the  fruit  of  the  chase,  they  procure  their 
clothing,  and  such  things  as  are  called  for  by  their  habits  of  life. 

Civil  divisions.  Since  the  cession  of  this  country  to  the  United 
States,  the  immigration  to  the  country  has  been  very  considerable.  The 
country  has  been  divided  into  counties,  judicial  and  military  districts; 
and  all  the  benefits  of  American  institutions  are  peaceably  diffused  over  its 
whole  surface.  The  present  number  of  inhabitants  in  both  Flondas,  is 
34,725.  They  are  as  thoroughly  mixed,  as  any  community  in  the  United 
States,  comprising  emigrants  from  all  foreign  countries,  and  from  every 
American  state ; and  among  the  creoles,  there  are  all  possible  admixtures 
of  African  and  Indian  blood.  The  greater  proportion  of  the  inhabitants 
are  very  poor,  and  too  great  a part  of  the  recent  immigrants  are  merely 
adventurers.  The  greater  number  of  the  ancient  inhabitants  lead  a kind 
of  pastoral  life,  and  subsist  by  rearing  cattle.  A few  of  the  planters  are 
opulent,  and  have  good  houses  with  piazzas,  and  every  addition  that  can 
easily  be  devised  to  court  the  breeze.  They  live  a solitary  life,  in  remote 
forests,  or  savannas.  But  abounding  in  fxsh,  cattle  and  game,  they  have 
all  the  necessaries  of  life  without  labor  or  difficulty;  and  the  unbounded 
hospitality  which  they  practise,  is  at  once  an  easy  and  delightful  virtue. 
Nothing  can  be  more  grateful  to  the  summer  traveller,  oppressed  with 
hunger,  thirst  and  heat,  and  wearied  with  the  sad  uniformity  of  the  wide 
pine  forests,  and  savannas,  than  the  cordial  though  rude  welcome,  the 
patriarchal  simplicity,  the  frank  hospitality,  and  the  surrender  of  time, 
slaves,  and  every  thing  that  the  house  affords,  to  his  comfort,  than  he  re- 


FLORIDA. 


207 


ceives  here.  Some  portions  of  this  region  have  interest  with  the  thinking 
traveller,  from  another  circumstance.  The  many  mounds,  that  are  me- 
morials of  ages  and  races  forever  lost  to  tradition  and  history,  are  here 
mixed  with  the  melancholy  ruins  of  considerable  villages,  that  rise  among 
the  orange  groves,  and  manifest,  that  there  was  once,  even  here,  a nume- 
rous population  of  civilized  beings. 

The  amusements  of  the  people  are  a compound  of  Spanish,  French 
and  American  manners. 

Florida  is  divided  into  Walton,  Escambia,  Washington,  Jackson,  Gads- 
den, Leon,  Jefferson,  Fayette,  and  some  other  new  counties. 

Comparative  advantages  of  immigration  to  Florida.  This  country 
was  in  some  points  of  view  an  invaluable  acquisition  to  the  United  States. 
It  was  necessary  to  thehounding,  and  completing  fhe  area  of  our  surface, 
that  no  foreign  power  should  possess  a territory  surrounded  by  our  own. 
It  was  necessary  for  the  possession  of  its  harbors,  and  its  immense  line  of 
coast.  It  was  invaluable  for  its  inexhaustible  supplies  of  ship  timber. 
As  an  agricultural  country,  it  must  be  confessed,  a great  part  of  it  is 
sterile.  The  level  pine  forest  lands  will  bring  one  or  two  crops  of  corn 
without  manure;  and  will,  probably  be  cultivated  to  a certain  extent  with 
indigo.  The  drier  lands  of  this  sort  are  admirable  for  sweet  potatoes, 
and  on  the  whole  better,  with  the  requisite  cultivation,  and  manuring,  for 
gardens,  than  soils,  naturally  more  fertile.  There  are  considerable  bodies 
of  excellent  land,  distributed  at  wide  intervals  over  all  the  country.  But 
a small  proportion  of  these  are,  what  are  demoninated  first  rate.  Some 
parts,  probably,  offer  equal  advantages  for  the  cultivation  of  sugar  with 
the  sugar  lands  of  Louisiana.  Cochineal,  it  is  supposed,  will  be  made  to 
advantage,  and  it  may  be,  coffee.  It  offers  superior  maritime  advantages 
of  every  sort;  abounds  in  the  materials  of  ship  building;  and  in  its  rich 
and  inexhaustible  fisheries,  and  its  supply  of  oysters,  and  sea  fowl  has  its 
own  peculiar  advantages.  The  immigrant,  who  sought  to  enrich  him- 
self by  cultivation  alone,  would,  probably,  make  his  way  to  the  richer 
soils,  west  of  the  Mississippi.  But,  if  taken  as  a whole,  it  is  more  sterile 
than  the  country  along  the  Mississippi,  it  feels  the  refreshing  coolness  of 
the  sea  breeze,  and  the  trade  winds,  and,  it  is  beyond  a doubt,  more 
healthy. — Nature  has  her  own  way  of  balancing  advantages  and  disadvan- 
tages, over  the  globe ; and  a Florida  planter  finds  sufficient  reasons,  on 
comparing  his  country  with  others,  to  be  satisfied  with  his  lot. 

Chief  Towns.  St.  Augustine  is  the  chief  town  of  East  Florida,  and 
the  most  populous  in  the  country.  It  is  situated  on  the  Atlantic  coast, 
thirty  miles  below  the  mouth  of  St.  Johns,  about  two  miles  within  the 
bar,  opposite  the  inlet,  and  at  the  neck  of  a peninsula,  in  north  latitude 
29°  45'. — The  bars  at  the  entrance  of  the  inlet  have  from  eight  to  ten  feet 


208 


FLORIDA. 


water.  The  town  is  built  of  an  oblong  form,  divided  by  four  streets,  that 
cut  each  other  at  right  angles,  fortified- by  bastions,  and  surrounded 
by  a ditch,  and  is  defended  by  a castle*  called  Fort  St.  John.  The  river 
St.  Marks,  flows  through  the  harbor,  and  divides  the  town  from  the  island. 
The  streets  are  generally  so  narrow,  as  scarcely  to  permit  two  carriages 
to  pass  each  other.  To  balance  this  inconvenience,  the  houses  have  a 
terrace  foundation,  which,  being  shaded,  renders  walking  in  the  sultry 
days  agreeable.  The  houses  are  generally  built  of  a free  stone,  peculiar 
to  the  country.  This  rock  is  obtained  from  the  adjacent  island,  and  is 
formed  of  concrete  sea  shells.  The  external  walls  are  plastered,  and 
have  a handsome  and  durable  appearance.  They  are  not  more  than  two 
stories  high,  with  thick  walls,  spacious  entries,  large  doors,  windows  and 
balconies,  and  commonly  a large  and  beautiful  garden  attached  to 
them. 

On  entering  this  ancient  looking  town  from  the  sea,  the  castle  of  Fort 
St.  Mark  has  an  imposing  effect  upon  the  eye.  It  is  a fort  forty  feet 
high,  and  in  the  modern  style  of  military  architecture.  It  commands  the 
entrance  of  the  harbor  and  is  of  a regular  quadrangular  form  with  fouf 
bastions,  a wide  ditch,  and  sixty  heavy  cannon,  and  is  capable  of  contain- 
ing one  thousand  men.  It  is  on  a point  of  land  between  the  conflux  of 
Matanzas  creek,  and  St.  Sebastian’s,  and  forms  a landscape  of  great  pic- 
turesque beauty,  with  its  interspersed  groves  of  orange  trees,  and  flower 
and  kitchen  gardens.  Although  the  soil  about  St.  Augustine  is  so  sandy 
as  to  give  it  the  appearance  of  being  sterile,  yet  it  is  far  from  being  un- 
productive. It  brings  two  crops  of  maize  in  a year;  and  garden  vegeta- 
bles grow  in  great  perfection. — The  orange  and  lemon  grow  as  if  they 
were  indigenous,  of  a greater  size,  it  is  affirmed,  than  in  Spain  or  Portu- 
gal. One  tree  has  been  found  to  produce  four  thousand  oranges.  The 
harbor  would  be  one  of  the  best,  were  it  not  for  the  bar  at  its  entrance', 
which  prevents  the  approach  of  large  vessels.  There  is  a light  house  on 
the  island,  and  some  gardens,  and  orange  and  date  trees.  From  this  island 
are  taken  taken  the  stones,  of  which  the  town  is  built,  and  here  commen- 
ces the  northern  limit  of  that  remarkable  quarry  of  stone,  that  skirts  the 
southern  shore  of  Florida.  The  population  of  St.  Augustine  now  con- 
sists of  between  4 and  5,000  inhabitants.  Near  this  town  grows  the  palm 
or  date  tree.  Its  branches  attract  notice  from  their  singular  beauty,  and 
constant  rustling,  like  aspen  leaves,  as  well  as  the  peculiarity  of  the  under 
branches,  which  serve  for  ladders,  by  which  to  ascend  the  tree.  The  fruit 
in  form  resembles  the  largest  acorn,  and  is  covered  with  a thin,  transpa- 
rent, yellowish  membrane,  containing  a soft  saccharine  pulp,  of  a some-  * 
what  vinous  flavor,  in  which  is  enclosed  an  oblong,  hard  kernel.  When 
ripe,  it  affords  an  agreeable  nourishment.  The  olive  has  already  become 


209 


FLORIDA, 

naturalized  to  the  soil.  Some  have  asserted.,'  that  cocca  trees  would 
succeed  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  peninsula. ' 

Pensacola,  fifty  miles  from  Mobile,  is  the  capital  of  West  Florida.  It 
is  situated  on  a bay  of  the  same  name,  in  north  33°  32'  and  in  longitude 
10°  18'  from  Washington.  The  shore  is  low  and  sandy;  but  the  town  is 
built  on  a gentle  ascent.  It  is,  like  St.  Augustine,  built  in  an  oblong 
form,  and  is  nearly  a mile  in  length.  Small  vessels  only  can  come  quite 
to  the  town.  But  the  bay  affords  one  of  the  most  safe  and  capacious 
harbors  in  all  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  It  has  been  selected  by  our  govern- 
ment, as  a naval  station  and  depot,  for  which  its  harbor,  and  the  advan- 
tage of  fine  ship  timber  in  the  neighborhood,  and  its  relative  position 
admirably  fit  it.  A stream  of  fresh  water  runs  through  the  town,  and  its 
market  is  well  supplied  with  beef,  garden  vegetables  and  fish.  Oysters,  tur- 
tles and  gophers  are  important  items  in  the  supplies  of  food,  and  espe- 
cially sea  fowls.  It  yvas  an  old  and  decaying  town,  when  it.  came  under 
the  American  government.  At  that  period  it  received  that  impulse  of 
increase  and  prosperity,  which  has  uniformly  been  the  result  of  coming 
under  the  American  government.  A number  of  new  and  handsome 
brick  houses  were  built.  Numerous  adventurers  flocked  to  the  place 
drawn  thither  by  its  natural  advantages,  and  its  reputation  for  uncommon 
salubrity.  In  the  fatal  autumn  of  1822,  the  yellow  fever  visited  this  placo 
in  common  with  many  other  towns  on  the  gulf.  Extreme  negligence  in 
the  police  of  the  town  is  supposed  to  have  caused  it.  Confidence  in  its 
fancied  exemption  from  that  terrible  malady  was  destroyed ; and  it  again 
declined.  It  is,  unquestionably,  a salubrious  position,  and  it  is  believed, 
that  its  natural  advantages,  added  to  those,  which  result  from  its  being  a 
naval  position,  will  restore  its  proper  degree  of  estimation  and  import- 
ance. Its  supplies  are  now  in  a considerable  degree  from  New  Orleans. 
Of  course  it  is  a place  something  more  expensive  than  that  city.  One  of 
its  inconveniences  is  a very  sandy  position ; and  the  inhabitants  are  said 
to  acquire  a general  gait,  as  if  continually  walking  in  a sand,  that  gave 
way  under  their  feet.  At  present  it  contains  a very  respectable  society, 
though  the  aspect  of  the  town  is  rather  unpleasant.  It  contains  nearly 
three  thousand  inhabitants. 

St.  Marks  is  an  inconsiderable  sea  port  nine  miles  from  T^allahasse, 
and  is  the  nearest  navigable  point  to  that  place. 

Tallahasse  has  been  selected,  as  The  seat  of  government  for  the 
territory  of  Florida.  The  reasons,  which  determined  the  governor  and 
commissioners  to  fix  on  this  place,  as  the  metropolis,  were  its  central 
' position,  fertility  of  soil,  and  thfe  reputation,  it  had  acquired  among 
the  Spanish  and  Indians  of  being  uncommonly  salubrious.  The  po- 
sition was  fixed  upon  for  the  seat  of  government  in  1824.  It  was 
divided  into  lots,  and  sold  in  1825  Five  squares  have  been  reserved  for 

27 


210 


FLORIDA. 


tlie  purpose  of  public  buildings.  The  precincts  of  the  town  encircle  a 
beautifully  undulating  country.  It  was  immediately  incorporated  as  a 
city.  In  two  years  from  the  first  building,  the  number  of  whites  and 
blacks  were  supposed  to  amount  to  800.  Some  respectable  houses  were 
built,  but  the  principal  part  of  the  habitations  are  temporary  log  buildings- 
The  forest  is  falling  on  all  sides,  and  it  is  daily  acquiring  more  and  more 
the  appearance  of  a town.  The  amount  of  the  sales  of  the  lots  was 
24,000  dollars.  That  sum  was  appropriated  for  the  erection  of  a territo- 
rial capitol.  The  materials  for  building  are  good  and  abundant.  There 
are  already  a number  of  stores,  taverns,  and  shops  of  all  the  customary 
mechanics,  with  a full  proportion  of  lawyers  and  doctors,  and  200  houses. 
A printing  press,  has  been  established,  from  which  issues  the  £ Florida 
Intelligencer.’  The  Florida  mahogony,  that  grows  in  the  vicinity,  is 
scarcely  inferior  to  that,  brought  from  Honduras.  There  are  fine  situa- 
tions for  mill  seats  in  the  vicinity,  and  great  scope  for  industry  and  enter- 
prise of  every  sort.  Post  roads  have  been  opened  to  Georgia,  St  Marks, 
St.  Augustine  and  Pensacola;  and  bridges  and  ferries  so  established,  that 
travelling  is  comparatively  safe  and  easy.  Immigrants  may  now  arrive  at 
this  plaqe  from  any  direction,  without  being  obliged  to  sleep  out  of  a 
house.  In  consequence  of  the  sudden  influx,  articles  at  first  were  very 
high.  Yet  the  neighborhood  abounds  in  game,  fish  and  waterfowl. 
Venison  and  wild  turkeys  are  constantly  offered  for  sale  by  the  Indians. 
Trout  and  sun  fish  are  taken  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  At  St.  Marks,  in 
the  neighboring  tide  waters,  sheep’s  head,  and  other  sea  fish,  and  oysters 
abound.  The  country  around  is  high  and  rolling.  This  place  is  only 
three  miles  north  of  the  elevated  chain  of  rolling  hills,  which,  for  a great 
distance,  bound  the  shores  of  the  Mexican  gulf.  Thence  to  the  sea,  the 
land  is  low  and  level,  and  abounds  in  the  long  leafed  pine.  There  are 
many  lakes  not  far  distant.  The  most  important  among  them  ar§,  Brad- 
ford’s and  Jackson’s.  The  latter  is  a clear  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
fifteen  miles  long,  and  one  and  a half  wide.  This  lake  has  risen,  within 
the  last  year,  six  or  seven  feet.  It  must  have  had  a subterranean  outlet, 
which  seems  now  partially  stopped.  It  was  but  a small  and  shallow  pond 
in  the  time  of  General  Jackson’s  campaign.  The  soil  about  this  town  is 
a mixture  of  loam,  sand  and  clay.  The  growth  in  the  dry  grounds  is  oak, 
hickory  and  pine.  But  wild  cherry,  gum,  ash,  dog  wood,  mahogony  and 
magnolia  abound.  The  climate,  as  far  as  experience  goes,  is  very  healthy. 
The  common  summer  elevation  of  the  mercury  is  not  high.  The  range 
is  between  88°  in  summer  and  24°  in  winter.  The  heat  is  moderated 
by  a sea  breeze.  The  dews  are  heavy.  Where  the  soil  is  sufficiently 
rich,  the  climate  is  adapted  to  the  sugar  cane,  and  it  will  be  a country 
for  the  growing  of  sugar.  Vessels  come  from  New  Orleans  to  St, 
Marks,  in  three  or  four  days.  The  remarkable  6 big  spring’  of  the  rivej* 
Wakulla  is  twelve  miles  distant. 


FLORIDA. 


211 


When  the  contemplated  canal  shall  have  been  completed,  and  the  rea- 
son rces  of  the  country  developed,  few  places  present  more  attractions  to 
immigrants.  Quincy  and  Magnolia  are  thriving  villages. 

Counties  and  Chief  Towns  beside  those  already  mentioned.  Alachua, 
Dell;  Duval,  Jacksonville;  Escambia,  Pensacola;  Hamilton,  Miccotown ; 
Jackson,  Marianna;  Jefferson,  Monticello;  Leon,  Tallahassee;  896  miles 
from  Washington;  Madison,  Hickstown;  Monro,  Key  West;  Moscheto, 
Tomoka ; Nassau,  Ferdinanda;  St.  Johns,  St.  Augustine , 841  from 
Washington,  292  S.  Ei  from  Tallahassee;  Walton,  Aliqua;  Washington, 
Holme's  Valley ■. 

History.  The  English  aver  that  Florida  was  discovered,  in  1497,  by 
Sebastian  Cabot.  In  1524,  the  first  effectual  settlement  was  made  in 
the  country.  In  I5$8§  an  expedition  was  undertaken  to  the  country,  by 
Pamphilo  de  Narvaez,  with  4(T0  men,  from  the  island  of  Cuba.  He  at- 
tempted to  penetrate  the  interior  of  the  country,  and  was  never  heard  of 
more.  In  1538,  the  country  was  entirely  subdued  by  Ferdinand  de  Soto* 
one  of  the  bravest  officers  in  the  Spanish  service.  But  the  savages  were 
numerous,  fierce  and  brave;  and  it  cost  the  Spanish  a long  and  bloody 
struggle  before  they  were  able  to  establish  themselves  in  the  country.  In 
1564,  the  French  began  to  establish  themselves,  and  to  form  little  settle^ 
ments  along  the  shore,  and  from  the  facility,  with  which  they  have  always 
gained  the  good  will  of  the  savages,  they  become  at  once  powerful  and 
troublesome  to  the  Spaniards.  Their  settlements  were  seldom  of  an  ag- 
ricultural character.  They  generally  took  part  with  the  natives,  and  ad- 
dicted themselves  to  hunting.  The  Spanish  sent  a fleet  against  them,  and 
destroyed  their  settlements.  In  1597,  the  French  made  severe  reprisals 
demolishing  all  the  forts,  erected  by  the  Spaniards,  and  murdering  all  the 
colonists,  whom  they  found  in  the  country.  From  this  time  the  French 
neglected  their  establishments  in  this  part  of  the  country,  and  the  Spanish 
continued  from  time  to  time,  to  make  petty  establishments  here.  In 
1586,  St.  Augustine  was  attacked  and  pillaged  by  Sir  Francis  Drake. 
In  1665,  it  was  entered,  and  plundered  by  Captain  Davis  at  the  head  of 
a body  of  bucanneers.  In  1702,  Colonel  More  at  the  head  of  500  Eng- 
lish and  700  Indians,  marched  from  Carolina  to  the  walls  of  St.  Augustine, 
and  laid  close  siege  to  it  for  three  months.  The' Spaniards,  having  sent 
a squadron  to  the  relief  of  the  garrison,  he  raised  the  siege,  and  made  a 
precipitate  retreat.  When  the  British  established  the  first  colony  in 
Georgia,  in  1733,  the  Spaniards  fecame  apprehensive  of  a new  attack 
upon  Florida,  and  not  without  reag&I;  for  in  1740,  an  expedition  was 
fitted  out  against  St.  Augustinejfy  Oglethorpe.  But  the  Spanish  com- 
mander, having  received  timely  notice  of  the  intended  attack,  made  such 
additions  to  the  strength  of  the  garrison,  and  used  such  other  artificial 
defences,  as  that  the  English  were  compelled  after  sustaining  considera- 


212 


FLORIDA o 


ble  loss  to  abandon  the  siege.  In  1763,  Florida  was  ceded  to  Great 
Britain,  in  exchange  for  Havanna,  She  received  Florida,  as  an  equiva- 
lent for  that  very  important  acquisition.  , By  the  encouragement,  which 
the  government  gave  to  agriculture,  numbers  of  colonists  poured  in  from 
every  part  of  the  British  islands,  and  from  all  the  countries  in  Europe;  and 
this  may  be  considered,  as  the  most  prosperous  period  of  the  country,  as 
regarded  its  future  prospects.— -In  the  year  1781,  while  Great  Britain  was 
exerting  all  her  powers  to  reduce  her  revolted  colonies,  a welhconcerted 
attack  by  the  Spaniards,  re-conquered  the  country,  and  brought  it  under 
its  ancient  regime,  and  it  was  guaranteed  to  them  by  the  peace  of  1783. 
It  remained  in  their  possession,  forming  one  of  the  three  governments, 
which  composed  the  captain-generalship  of  the  island  of  Cuba.  In  1810, 
the  inhabitants  of  that  part  ofWest  Florida,  which  now  composes  part  of 
the  states  of  Alabama  and  Louisiana,  in  concert  with  the  American  au- 
thorities, renounced  the  government  of  Spain,  and  attached  themselves  to 
the  United  States.  The  revolution  was  effected  without  bloodshed.  It  is 
said  that  they  hesitated  about  the  propriety  of  setting  up  an  independent 
government,  and  that  they  sent  delegates  to  our  government,  to  treat 
respecting  the  terms  of  reception.  The  country,  so  seceding,  came 
peaceably  under  our  government,  and  has  so  remained  ever  since. 

We  know  little  of  the  interior  history  of  this  country,  while  under  the 
Spanish  regime.  St.  Augustine,  Pensacola  and  St.  Marks  were  the  only 
places  of  much  importance.  The  country  supplied  Havanna  with  cattle 
and  horses ; and  furnished  an  occasional  retreat  to  the  inhabitants  of  that 
city  during  the  sickly  season.  They  had  the  customary  Spanish  engines  of 
government,  a priest,  a calaboza,  a commandant  and  a file  of  soldiers. 
History  redeems  but  little  from  the  silence  of  such  a government,  as  it 
respects  knowledge  of  the  character  and  deportment  of  the  officers,  or  the 
condition  of  the  people.  The  materials  of  such  annals,  if  any  exist,  are  in 
the  archives  at  Havanna.  Meantime  our  government  had  heavy  and  well 
grounded  claims  on  the  Spanish  government  for  spoliations  committed  on 
our  commerce.  These  claims,  as  also  settling  definitely  the  territorial  line 
of  jurisdiction  between  the  United,  States  and  New  Mexico,  made  the  basis 
of  a treaty,  by  which  the  Spanish  ceded  to  us  the  entire  country.  The 
treaty  was  made  a law  in  1820;  and  it  then  became  a territory  of  the 
United  States,  and  has  since  advanced  with  that  steady  progress  in 
population  and  prosperity,  which  has  marked  every  country,  that' has 
thus  been  added  to  our  government. 

It  is  supposed,  there  arp  seven  millions  of  acres  in  the  coffee  region  of 
Florida;  eight  millions  of  sugar  land;  and  nine  millions  of  cotton  and 
grain  land;  making  twenty-four  million  acres  of  marketable  land. 


ALABAMA 


Length,  280  miles. ( Breadth,  160  miles;  containing  46,000  square 
'miles.  Between  30°  12'  and  35°  N.  latitude ; and  between  8°  and  1 1° 
30f  W.  longitude  from  Washington.  Bounded  North  by  Tennessee;  East 
by  Georgia  ; South  by  Florida,  and  West  by  the  state  of  Mississippi. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 

Counties . Autauga,  Baldwin,  Blount,  Bibb,  Butler,  Clarke,  Conecuh, 
Covington,  Dallas,  Decatur,  Franklin,  Fayette,  Greene,  Henry,  Jackson, 
Jefferson,  Lauderdale,  Lawrence,  Limestone,  Lowndes,  Madison,  Maren- 
go, Marion,  Mobile,  Monroe,  Morgan,  Montgomery,  Perry,  Pickens, 
Pike,  Shelby,  St  Clair,  Tuscaloosa,  Washington,  Wilcox,  and  Walker. 

Population.  No  part  of  the  western  country  has  had  a more  rapid 
increase  of  population,  than  this  sta,te.  In  1800,  that  portion  of  the  present 
state  of  Mississippi,  which  is  now  Alabama,  had  only  2,000  inhabitants. 
In  1810,  it  contained  10,00.  In  1820,  it  numbered  127,000.  By  the 
census  of  1830, 199,221  free  whites  and  1 12,625  slaves.  Total,  311,846. 

This  state  rises  by  regular  belts,  or  terraces  from  the  gulf  of  Mexico. 
The  lower  belt  is  low,  level,  and  has  many  swamps  and  savannas,  and 
the  prevailing  timber  is  pine.  The  northern  belt  is  pleasantly  undulating. 
Tennessee  valley,  though  a deep  alluvial  country,  is  in  fact  high  table 
land,  and  there  are  few  table  countries,  which  excel  this  part  of  the 
state  in  fertility,  mildness  of  climate,  and  pleasantness  of  position. 
This  valley  is  separated  from  that  of  the  Alabama  by  hills  of  such  lofty 
and  precipitous  character,  as  generally  to  merit  the  name  of  mountains. 
Some  of  these  peaks  tower  3,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  gulf.  One 
chain  runs  from  Ross,  on  Tennessee  river,  between  the  Coosa  and  Black 


ALABAMA. 


^14 

Warrior,  giving  rise  to  the  head  waters  of  Cahawba.  Another  separated 
the  streams  of  the  gulf  from  those,  that  fall  into  the  Tennessee.  Another 
range  divides  between  the  waters  of  the  Black  Warrior,  and  Tombigbee. 

Rivers.  The  Chatahochy  separates  this  state  from  Georgia,  and  not 
far  below  the  limits  of  that  state,  unites  with  Flint  river,  to  form  the 
Appalachicola  of  Florida. — The  Tennessee  curves  from  the  north-east  to 
the  north-west  corner  of  the  state  near  its  northern  line.  A line  of  hills 
with  a curve,  corresponding  with  that  of  the  Tennessee,  runs  at  a distance 
of  between  fifty  and  eighty  miles  from  that  river,  gi  ving  rise  to  numerous 
streams,  that  flow  from  one  declivity  north  to  the  Tennessee,  and  from 
the  other  south,  to  the  waters  of  the  Alabama  and  Tombigbee.  Into 
Tennessee  flow  Watts’  river,  Turkey  creek,  Poplar  creek,  Occocbapa  and 
many  smaller  streams.  These  rivers  reach  the  Tennessee  either  at  the 
Muscle  Shoals,  or  near  them.  It  is  proposed  to  unite  the  waters  of  the 
Tennessee  with  the  upper  waters  of  the  Tombigbee  by  a canal,  which 
shall  cross  Bear  creek  of  the  Tennessee,  and  the  line  of  hills,  that  sepa- 
rates the  waters  of  that  river  from  those  of  Tombigbee,  and  unite  the 
the  canal  with  an  upper  and  beatable  branch  of  that  river. 

Mobile  river  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  Alabama  and  Tombigbee* 
and  is  so  called  up  to  the  point,  where  these  rivers  unite  at  Fort  Mimms. 
It  enters  Mobile  bay  by  two  mouths.  The  Alabama  is  the  eastern  branch 
of  the  Mobile,  and  is  itself  formed  from  the  junction  of  the  Coosa  and 
Tallapoosa  rivers.  The  Tallapoosa  rises  in  the  Alleghany  ridges  in 
Georgia,  where  it  is  called  Occafusky,  and  receives  a number  of  tribu- 
taries in  the  Indian  country.  It  passes  over  considerable  falls,  before  it 
gives  its  waters  to  the  Alabama. — The  Tallapoosa  rises  in  the  same 
ridges,  and  pursues  a somewhat  longer  course  to  the  south-west.  Both 
are  rapid  streams,  run  through  the  Creek  country,  and  are  not  boatable 
to  any  considerable  distance  above  their  junction. — From  this  junction 
the  Alabama  receives  a number  of  small  streams  from  the  east,  bends 
towards  the  west  and  receives  the  Cahawba.  It  is  navigable  by  sea  vessels 
to  Fort  Claiborne.  It  is  one  of  the  finest  rivers  of  the  southern  country, 
and  navigable  for  steam  boats  of  the  largest  class,  for  a great  distance. 
A number  ply  constantly  on  it.  They  transport  130,000  bales  of  cotton 
to  Mobile.  When  the  title  of  the  lands  of  the  Creek  Indians  shall  have 
become  vested  in  the  United  States,  and  the  beautiful  country  on  the 
head  waters  of  this  river  settled  by  whites,  it  is  probable,  that  Montgom- 
ery, situated  midway  between  Mobile,  and  the  highest  points  of  steam 
navigation  on  this  river,  will  become  one  of  the  most  important 
towns  in  the  state.  The  Tombigbee  rises  in  the  ridges,  that  separate 
between  its  waters  and  those  of  the  Tennessee,  in  the  northern  parts  of 
the  state ; and  receives  some  of  its  western  branches  from  a range,  that 


ALABAMA. 


215 


diverges  from  the  Tennessee  hills,  and  runs  south  along  the  middle  of  the 
state  of  Mississippi.  It  receives,  in  its  progress,  many  considerable 
streams  from  the  state  of  Mississippi  on  the  west.  It  meanders  through 
the  Indian  country,  and  a tract  purchased  by  French  immigrants.  Eighty 
miles  above  St.  Stephen’s,  it  is  swelled  by  the  accession  of  the  Black 
Warrior,  to  which  place  small  sea  vessels  ascend.  In  moderate  stages  of 
the  water,  it  affords  steam  boat  navigation  to  Tuscaloosa. — Both  these 
rivers  are  extremely  favorable  to  boat  navigation ; and  during  the  higher 
stages  of  water,  a number  of  steam  boats  are  constantly  moving  through 
the  dark  forests  and  rich  alluvions  of  these  fine  rivers.  Yellow,  Chactaw 
and  Pea  rivers  rise  in  this  state,  and  pass  into  Florida,  as  does  also  the 
Conecuh,  a considerable  river,  that  rises  in  the  interior,  and  find  its  way 
to  the  sea  through  that  country.  The  Tensa  is  a branch,  or  enlargement 
of  Mobile  river,  before  it  enters  Mobile  bay.  The  Perdido  separates  this 
state  from  Florida,  as  the  Pascagoula  on  the  west  does  from  the  state  of 
Mississippi.  Escambia  rises  near  Fort  Claiborne,  and  running  a south- 
wardly course,  unites  with  the  Conecuh,  and  forms  Escambia  bay  above 
Pensacola. 

Face  of  the  country , soil , <fyc.  The  following  was  considered  by  the 
purchasing  immigrants  a very  accurate  and  faithful  general  delineation 
of  the  qualities  of  the  soil.  It  is  chiefly  extracted  from  the  published 
accounts  of  the  United  States’  surveyor  in  that  district;  and  has  the 
advantage  of  having  been  the  result  of  actual  inspection.  The  general 
shape  of  the  state  is  that  of  a well  defined  parallelogram.  The  only 
undefined  line  is  the  southern  one.  From  this  line  another  parallelogram 
is  formed,  extending  between  Florida  and  the  state  of  Mississippi.  It 
includes  Mobile  bay.  This  was  once  part  of  West  Florida,  and  was 
necessary  to  this  state,  to  enable  it  to  communicate  with  the  gulf  of 
Mexico.  Except  the  alluvions  on  Mobile  river,  the  soil  is  generally  a 
pine  barren.  In  Mobile  bay  are  the  islands  Dauphin,  Massacre  and  Petit 
Bois.  Mobile  bay  is  a deep  and  commodious  entrance  into  the  interior. 
Dauphin  island  is  of  a triangular  shape,  and  five  miles  in  length.  The 
ship  channel  is  between  Dauphin  island,  and  Mobile  point.  There  is 
another  pass,  called  Pass  au*Heron,  which  has  but  six  feet  water  over  its 
bar.  Taking  the  state,  as  a whole,  the  northern  parts,  near  Tennessee,  are 
generally  hilly  and  precipitous.  At  the  northern  commencement  of  this 
belt,  it  is  mountainous,  and  a continuation  of  the  Alleghany  hills.  The 
central  interior  region  is  generally  waving  hills.  As  we  approach  within 
fifty  or  sixty  miles  of  Florida,  the  swamps  are,  for  the  most  part,  timber- 
ed with  cypress  and  gum  trees,  and  some  loblolly  pines ; and  the  uplands 
with  long  leafed  pine.  These  pine  swells  and  levels  have  a very  thin  soil; 
but  generally  having  a substratum  of  clay,  contain  within  themselves  a 


216 


ALABAMA. 


principle  of  fertility,  which,  when  cultivation  shall  be  advanced,  and 
population  sufficiently  compact,  will  not  fail  to  be  called  forth.  At 
present,  they  bear,  without  manuring,  two  or  three  crops  of  maize,  and 
perhaps  one  or  two  of  small  cotton.  But  in  the  present  order  of  things, 
while  there  are  sufficient  extents  of  rich  lands,  the  pine  barrens  will  be 
£ held  in  little  estimation ; and  they  probably,  include  more  than  one  half 
the  surface  of  the  state.  Among  the  pine  woods  grows  rank  grass? 
furnishing  fine  and  inexhaustible  summer  range.  The  alluvions  on  the 
Alabama  and  Tombigbee  are  generally  wide,  and  for  the  most  part  first 
rate  lands.  Some  affirm,  that  they  are  equal  to  the  lands  on  the  Missis- 
sippi. When  these  lands  came  into  the  market  in  the  land  office,  the 
rash  and  grasping  spirit  of  land  speculation  raised  them  to  an  inordinate 
price,  which  proved,  in  many  instances,  ruinous  to  the  purchasers.  In 
some  cases,  these  lands  in  a state  of  nature,  sold  as  high  as  fifty  dollars 
an  acre.  The  alluvial  soils  on  the  margins  of  the  streams  generally  are 
fertile  and  productive.  The  hammock  lands  rank  at  the  head  of  the 
second  rate  lands,  and  their  fertility  is  of  long  duration. — They  consti- 
tute an  intermediate  belt  between  the  bottoms  and  pine  ridges.  They 
generally  have  a slope,  like  a glacis.  In  the  first  rate  lands  no  pines  are 
to  be  seen.  In  second  rate  lands  pines  are  intermixed  with  dog  wood, 
hickory  and  oak.  Wherever  the  high  table  grounds  are  seen  covered 
with  oaks,  dog  wood  trees,  and  the  pawpaw  intermixed,  the  soil  is  sure 
to  be  fine.  The  French  immigrants  are  sanguine  in  the  belief,  that  the 
slopes  and  hammocks  of  this  state  would  afford  eligible  soils  and  situa- 
tions for  vineyards.  It  will  be  an  omen  for  good  for  the  country  in  gen- 
eral, and  for  this  state  in  particular,  if  they  prosper  in  attempting  to  rear 
the  vine  and  the  olive.  Experience  has  abundantly  demonstrated,  that 
the  great  bulk  of  American  farmers  are  little  disposed  to  speculative 
agriculture. — They  prefer  to  fix  their  attention  upon  com,  cotton,  tobac- 
co, beef  and  pork.  Along  the  southern  limits  of  the  state  the  soil  is 
thin,  and  the  unvarying  verdure  of  the  pine,  tires  by  its  uniformity.  On 
the  head  waters  of  the  Escambia,  and  Conecuh,  the  soil  and  climate  are 
favorable  to  the  sugar  cane ; ahd  here  are  seen  those  groves  of  orange 
trees,  of  which  travellers  have  spoken  with  so  much  delight,  affirming 
them  to  be  indigenous.  They  were,  beyond  question,  the  growth  of 
seeds  scattered  from  orange  groves,  originally  cultivated  by  Spaniards 
in  Florida. 

In  the  lower  parts  of  the  state,  as  we  approach  Florida,  the  swamps 
become  more  and  more  extensive.  Cypress  lands  are  abundant  On  the 
alluvial  grounds,  which  are  not  inundated,  is  large  and  rank  cane.  Be- 
low the  Tombigbee,  the  river  is  apt  to  inundate  the  bottoms  and  swamps, 
and  the  musquitos  are  excessively  annoying.  As  we  ascend  into  the 


ALABAMA. 


217 


Cenlral  parts  of  the  state,  the  lands  become  high  and  broken,  and  pine  is 
less  frequent.  Oak,  hickory  and  poplar  are  there  the  prevailing  growth. 

The  most  extensive  bodies  of  good  land,  and  those,  which  are  at  present 
most  populous,  are  between  the  Alabama  and  Tombigbee,  the  bottoms 
of  the  Tallapoosa  and  the  Black  W; arrior.  Passing  over  the  ridge,  that 
separates  the  waters  of  the  Conecuh  from  those  of  the  Alabama,  there 
is  an  extensive  body  of  rich  land.  On  the  head  waters  of  Lime  Stone 
creek,  there  is  also  a fine  body  of  land.  A considerable  distance  above 
the  junction  of  the  Coosa  and  Tallapoosa,  there  is  a country  of  fine 
swells  of  land,  watered  with  frequent  springs  of  pure  water.  The  land 
is  heavily  timbered  with  those  kinds  of  trees,  that  indicate  a rich  soil. — 
It  is  inhabited  by  the  Creek  Indians. 

Character  of  the  population . This  state  was  originally  a part  of 
the  Mississippi  territory.  It  has  acquired  population  with  great  rapidity, 
and  already  far  exceeds  in  numbers  the  state,  from  which  it  was  taken. 
Few  states  have  had  so  great  an  increase.  This  was  owing  in  part  to 
its  contiguity  to  Georgia,  and  its  proximity  to  the  Carolinas;  and  its 
having  fresh  and  fertile  lands,  and  yet  being  in  other  respects,  as 
regards  soil,  climate,  and  situation,  very  similar  to  those  states.  Immi- 
grants from  the  land  of  pine  and  cypress  forests,  love  to  see  these  trees 
in  the  new  regions,  to  which  they  transplant  themselves.  Public  opinion 
had  estimated  this  country,  as  more  than  commonly  healthy,  for  its 
climate.  That  part  of  it,  lying  south  of  the  Tennessee  ridge,  has  great 
facilities  of  communication  with  the  sea.  The  southern  planters  ordina- 
rily do  not  covet  a country,  which  admits  a very  dense  population.  They 
love  space,  in  which  to  move  themselves.  They  prefer  those  extensive 
pine  barrens,  in  which  there  is  such  inexhaustible  range  for  cattle,  and 
which  will  not,  for  a long  time  admit  a dense  population.  At  the  same 
time,  they  desire  at  intervals  rich  alluvial  soils  of  thick  cane  brake,  the 
proper  soil  for  cotton.  Alabama  furnished  them,  in  these  respects,  all 
they  could  wish.  It  was  much  healthier,  than  the  iharatime  parts  of 
the  Carolinas;  and  at  the  same  time  had  a soil  better  adapted  to  cotton. 
This  may  account  for  the  great  immigration  from  the  Carolinas  and 
Georgia,  and  for  that  surprising  increase  in  the  population,  which  we  have 
already  noted  in  the  table  of  civil  divisions. 

The  people  in  this  state  have  a general  character  for  order,  quietness, 
a regard  for  religion,  schools,  and  social  and  moral  institutions;  more 
decided  than  could  have  been  expected,  taking  into  view  the  recent 
origin  of  the  state. — They  speak,  and  think  of  themselves,  in  reference 
to  the  states  further  south' and  west,  with  no  small  degree  of  assumption 
in  the  comparison,  There  are  many  opulent  planters  with. large  numbers 
of  slaves;  and  they  possess  the  characteristic  hospitality  of  these  people 

28 


218 


ALABAMA. 


'-every  where.  They  have  not  formed  a character,  as  -a  state.  They  have 
Tew  religious,  literary  or  other  institutions.  But  they  are  developing  a. 
character,  which  will  lead  to  respectable  and  numerous  foundations  of 
this  kind.  Travellers  have  been  favorably  impressed  with  the  charac- 
teristics of  hospitality,  quietness  and  good  order,  which  they  generally 
witnessed.  The  people  begin  to  be  alive  to  the  vital  interests  of 
schools  and  education.  The  usual  appropriations  of  lands  for  colleges 
and  schools  have  been  made  by  congress  for  this  state.  From  the  compa- 
tively  high  price  of  lands,  these  appropriations  must  ultimately  constitute 
:<a  respectable  fund. 

i 'Seminaries . Alabama  contains  three  colleges-;  The  Catholic  college 
near  Mobile,  the  Methodist  college  at  Lagrange,  a respectable  institution, 
and  Alabama  college  at  Tuscaloosa.  This  last  is  an  amply  endowed 
institution.  One  of  the  buildings  is  magnificent.  Great  exertions  have 
been  made  to  purchase  a respectable  library  and  philosophical  apparatus, 
and  in  point  of  pofessorships  and  other  appointments  to  place  it  on  a 
Tooting  with  the  most  respectable  institutions  of  the  kind. 

Climate.  The  climate  of  this  state,  taken  together,  is  favorable  to 
health,  compared  with  the  southern  country  generally  in  the  same  paral- 
lels. The  lower  part  of  it  is  constantly  fanned,  during  the  summer 
heats,  by  the  trade  wind  breezes.  There  can  hardly  be  said  to  be  such  a 
•season,  as  winter,  and  yet  the  summers  are  not  hotter,  than  they  are  many 
degrees  more  to  the  north.  The  duration  of  the  summer  heats  is  indeed 
debilitating,  and  the  direct  rays  of  the  summer’s  sun  oppressive.  But 
strangers  from  the  north  in  the  shade,  and  in  the  current  of  air,  seldom 
suffer  from  the  heat.  In  the  northern  parts  of  the  state  still  waters  often 
freeze.  In  the  southern  parts  they  seldom  see  much  snow  or  ice.  Cattle 
'require  no  shelter  during  the  winter.  Maize  is  planted  early  in  March. 

In  the  31st  degree  of  latitude  the  thermometer  stands  in  spring  water 
at  69°  which  is  nearly  the  mean  temperature  of  the  year.  A series  of 
thermometrical  operations  for  a year  give  the  following  result.  The 
warmest  part  of  the  warmest  day  in.  April  gave  82°. — Mean  heat  of  July 
'of  the  same  year  86°.  Coldest  day  in  January  54°.  Coldest  day  in 
February  43°.  Warmest  day  in  March  85°.  Same  year  the  trees  in  the 
swamps,  where  vegetation  is  most  tardy,  were  in  full  leaf  the  2d  of  April; 
peach  blossoms  gone;  April  12th  peas  in  pod;  peaches  of  the  size  of  a 
hazlenut;  fig  trees  in  leaf;  green  peas  at  table,  May  2d;  strawberries 
ripe';  May  16th  mulberries,  dewberries,  and  whortleberries  ripe ; May  15th 
cucumbers  in  perfection;  June  29th  roasting  corn  at  table. 

J Diseases.  In  point  of  health ' this  climate  takes  its  character  from 
situation  and  local  circumstances.  The  prevailing  diseases  of  the  cooler 
months  are  those  of  the  class  termed  cachexy.  The  diseases  of  the  warm 


ALABAMA® 


219 


months  are  generally  bilious.  Where  the  powerful  southern  sun  brings 
the  swamp  miasm  into  action,  diseases  follow  of  course,  and  none  but 
negroes,  and  those  acclimated,  can  safely  reside  in  the  low  grounds  on 
the  banks  of  the  rivers,  and,  near  the  inundated  swamps. — The  yellow 
fever  has  seldom  been  seen,  except  in  Mobile.  In  the  high  land  regions, 
far  from  swamps,  creeks  and  stagnant  waters,  in  the  districts  of  hills,, 
springs,  and  pine  forests,  the  country  may  be  pronounced  salubrious, 
and  the  planters  from  the  sickly  country  generally  retire  to  such  places, 
to  spend  the  summer. 

Employment  of  the  people.  Cotton  is  the  grand  staple  of  Alabama. 
The  growing  of  this  article  has  increased  in  this  state  in  a ratio  even 
greater,  than  that  of  the  population.  Among  the  cotton  raising  states, 
this  now  takes  a very  high  rank.  Sugar,  rice  and  tobacco  are  also  cul- 
tivated. Many  of  the  people  about  Mobile  are  shepherds,  and  have 
droves  of  cattle,  numbering  from  500  to  1,000.  Swine  are  raised  with, 
great  ease,  where  they  can  be  guarded  from  their  enemies,  wolves,  panth- 
ers and  alligators.  The  small  breed  of  Indian  horses,  or  Spanish  tackies, 
as  they  are  called,  are  ugly,  but  hardy  and  strong,  and  are  better  than 
the  handsomer  horses  for  service.  The  country  trade  of  the  lower  part 
©f  Alabama  is  to  Mobile,  Blakely  and  Pensacola.  Considerable  amounts 
of  pitch,  tar,  turpentine  and  lumber  are  exported.  The  cotton  used  to 
be  carried  to  New  Orleans.  Mobile  has  become  a port  of  great  export 
for.  cotton.  This- country,  so  near  Havanna,  has  great  advantages  for 
navigation.  Sea  vessels  proceed  up  the  Alabama  to  a considerable 
distance.  The  northern  parts  of  Alabama,  situated  in  the  Tennessee 
valley,  are  compelled  to  send  their  produce  by  a very  circuitous  route, 
down  the  Tennessee,  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  where  it  arrives,  after  a 
passage  of  1,600  miles.  At  starting,  it  can  not  be  more  than  five  hun- 
dred miles  from  the  gulf.  There  is  little  hazard  in  asserting,  that  the 
intelligent  and  opulent  people,  in  the  beautiful  and  fertile  valley  of  the 
Tennessee,  will  canal  the  ridges,  that  rise  between  them  and  the  waters 
of  the  Alabama,  and  will  unite  themselves  with  the  gulf  by  that  fine  river. 

Chief  Towns.  Mobile  is  the  only  town  of  any  great  importance 
in  the  lower  part  of  the^  state.  It  Ties  on  the  west  side  of  Mobile 
bay  on  an  elevated  plain,  in  latitude  30°  40'.  It  is  situated  considerably 
above  the  overflow  of  the  river,  in  a dry  and  pleasant  situation.  Access 
to  it  is  rendered  somewhat  difficult  to  vessels  by  a swampy  island  oppo- 
site the  town.  But  when  once  they  have  entered,  they  are  perfectly 
secure  from  winds,  storms  and  enemies;  and  can  come  directly  to 
the  town'.  It  has  swampy  lands  and  stagnant  waters  back  of  it,  and  near 
it  a sterile  country  of  pine  woods.  From  these  causes,  though  it  had  been 
one  of  the  earliest  settled  towns  in  the  country,  it  never  became,  under 


220 


ALABAMA, 


the  Spanish  and  French  regime,  more  than  a military  post.  Under  the 
government  of  the  United  States,  it  has  received  a new  impulse  of  pros 
perity.  But  a few  years  since,  little  cotton  was  raised  in  the  whole 
country  connected  with  Mobile;  and  none  was  exported  directly  from 
this  place.  It  is  now  a great  shipping  port  for  cotton ; and  a large  num- 
ber of  square  rigged  vessels  take  their  freight  from  this  city.  There  is 
no  other  port,  perhaps,  in  the  United  States  of  the  same  size,  that  has  so 
large  an  amount  of  export.  > After  New  Orleans  and  Charleston,  it  is  the 
largest  cotton  port  in  the  country.  It  is  enlivened,  too,  by  the  coming 
and  departing  of  many  steam  boats,  that  ply  on  the  noble  river  above  the 
city.  In  addition  to  the  great  number  of  packet  schooners,  that  sail 
between  this  place  and  New  Orleans,  some  by  the  lake,  and  some  by  the 
Mississippi,  there  is  now  a steam  boat  communication  between  the  two 
cities,  by  the  way  of  lake  Ponchartrain,  Of  course,  except  during  the 
sickly  months,  it  is  a place  of  great  activity  and  business.  Chiefly 
destroyed,  not  long  since,  by  a destructive  fire,  it  has  been  rapidly  and 
handsomely  rebuilt  of  brick.  It  contains  2000  free  whites,  and  1500 
slaves  and  free  blacks;  total,  3,500.  The  public  buildings  are  a court 
house  and  a jail;  four  churches,  one  for  Roman  Catholics,  one  for  Epis- 
copalians, one  for  Presbyterians,  and  one  for  Methodists.  A Roman 
Catholic  college  is  erecting  at  Spring  Hill,- six  miles  from  the  city.  It 
exported,  1831,  110,000  bags  of  cotton.  It  has  the  disadvantage  of  a 
shallow  harbor,  which  is  moreover  growing  shallower  by  the  sand  depos- 
ited by  the  rivers.  The  most  fatal  impediment  to  the  advancement  of 
this  town  is  its  acknowledged  character  for  sickness.  Advantage  has 
been  taken  of  this  circumstance,  to  commence  the  town  of  Blakely,  on 
the  eastern  and  opposite  side  of  the  bay,  and  at  ten  miles  distance.  The 
site  is  free  from  contiguous  swamps.  It  stands  on  the  Tensa,  the  largest 
branch  of  the  Mobile,  which  yields  deeper  water,  and  has  a harbor  of 
easier  access,  than  Mobile.  The  situation  is  open,  high,  and  dry,  and  it 
has  cool  and  limpid  springs  of  water,  and  superior  advantages  of  commu- 
nication with  the  country  by  good  roads.  It  has  improved  considerably, 
and  its  founders  were  sanguine,  that  it  would  speedily  eclipse  Mobile, 
But  that  ancient  town  had,  what  is  called  in  the  west  country  phrase, 
c the  start,’  and  sustains  its  pre-eminence,  as  a commercial  depot,  not- 
withstanding its  frequent  and  destructive  ravages  from  yellow  fever  and 
fires.  Mobile  is  1033  miles  from  Washington,  and  226  S.  from  Tusca- 
loosa. 

St.  Stephens  is  on  the  Tombigbee  120  from  Mobile,  and  at  the  head  of 
schooner  navigation.  It  is  a considerable  village  with  stone  houses;  but 
notwithstanding  a favorable  position  in  the  midst  of  a fine  country,  wears 
the  aspect  of  decay. 


ALABAMA 9 


221 


Cahawba  has  been,  until  recently,  the  political  metropolis,  and  is  sit- 
uated at  the  junction  of  the  Cahawba  with  the  Alabama.  County  courts 
are  held  here,  and  an  office  for  the  sale  of  public  lands.  The  circum- 
stance of  its  having  been  the  metropolis  gave  it  a rapid  growth.  It  has  a 
considerable  number  of  handsome  buildings,  intermixed,  according  to 
the  common  fashion  of  new  towns,  with  a great  many  temporary  log 
buildings.  Florida,  Claiborne,  Dumfries,  Jackson,  Coffeeville,  Demopo- 
lis,  and  Columbia  are  incipient,  and  some  of  them  thriving  villages. 

Tuscaloosa  at  the  falls  of  the  Black  Warrior  is  permanently  fixed,  as 
the  political  metropolis,  and  is  a town  of  rapid  growth.  Its  situation 
500  miles  from  Mobile,  is  elevated/ level  and  beautiful.  It  contains  two 
thousand  inhabitants.  Many  of  the  buildings  are  of  brick  and  handsome. 
The  public  buildings  are  a superb  state  house,  a court  house  and  jail; 
four  churches,  one  for  Presbyterians,  one  for  Episcopalians,  one  for  Bap- 
tists, and  one  for  Methodists.  This  town  is  the  seat  of  the  new  and 
handsome  buildings  of  Alabama  college.  Beautiful  stone  for  buildings 
is  found  in  the  vicinity,  and  mineral  coal  of  the  best  quality  abounds  in 
the  banks  of  the  Black  Warrior.  Salt  works  from  water  recently  discov- 
ered are  in  successful  operation.  Tuscaloosa  is  858  miles  from  Wash- 
ington. 

Montgomery*  the  shire  town  of  the  county  of  that  name,  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Alabama,  opposite  the  Big  Bend,  two 
hundred  miles  east  of  Mobile,  and  the  same  distance  west  of  Milledge- 
ville  in  Georgia.  The  public  buildings  are  a court  house  and  jail,  one 
church  for  Presbyterians,  and  one  for  Methodists ; and  a theatre.  It  con- 
tains eight  hundred  inhabitants.  It  -is  surrounded  by  a fertile  soil,  rapidly 
settling  with  rich  planters,  chiefly  from  the  Carolinas  and  Georgia,  and 
promises  to  become  a place  of  much  commercial  importance.  Washington, 
Selma  and  Claiborne,  and  other  towns  on  the  Alabama,  are  inconsidera- 
ble villages.  Thirty  miles  higher  on  the  same  river  is  Kelleysville,  a 
thriving  village.  Eagleville  is  principally  inhabited  by  French  emigrants, 
who  calculated  to  cultivate  the  olive  and  the  vine.  Montgomery  is  859 
miles  from  Washington,  and  119  from  Tuscaloosa. 

The  beautiful  and  fertile  valley  of  Tennessee  has  a very  different 
conformation  and  its  communications,  by  a long  and  circuitous  route 
with  the  Mississippi  and  New  Orleans.  This  valley  has  a number  of  large 
and  flourishing  villages  of  its  own.  The  largest,  of  these  is  Huntsville, 
a handsome  and  thriving  town,  situated  ten  or  fifteen  miles  north  of  the 
Tennessee,  and  fifty  from  the  Muscle  Shoals.  The  country  about  it  is 
extremely  fertile.  It  is  principally  built  of  brick,  with  some  spacious, 
and  very  handsome  buildings,  a presbyterian  church,  a baptist  and 
two  methodist  places  of  worship,  a handsome  court  house,  and  other 


2*22 


ALABAMA. 


public  buildings.  One  of  those  large  and  beautiful  springs,  that  are  so 
common  in  this  region,  furnishes  the  town  with  water  by  machinery  put' 
in  motion  by  its  own  current. 

Florence  is  the  next  town  in  point  of  size,  and  in  a commercial  view 
more  important  than  the  other.  It  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  the 
Tennessee,  at  the  foot  of  the  Muscle  Shoals.  When  the  river  is  in  a 
good  stage  of  water,  steam  boats  of  the  largest  size  can  come  up  to  this- 
place.  It  has  in  this  way  a great  and  increasing  intercourse  with  New 
Orleans.  It  has  about  1,400  inhabitants,  a very  handsome  courthouse, 
and  a hotel  in  city  style.  It  has  also  a presbyterian  church. 

Tuscumbia  is  the  next  place  in  size  and  importance.  It  is  situated 
on  the  south  side  of  the  river  near  a mile  from  its  banks,  and  five  miles 
from  Florence.  It  has  several  handsome  buildings  and  a thousand  inhabi- 
tants. Russelville  is  also  a new  town  of  some  importance. 

A considerable  degree  of  munificence  has  been  manifested  by  the  peo- 
ple of  this  state,  in  their  appropriations  for  schools,  roads,  bridges,  canals 
and  other  works  of  public  utility. — An  appropriation  of  5 per  cent,  of 
of  the  net  proceeds  of  all  the  of  public  lands  in  the  state  has  been  provid- 
ed for  these  objects. — A rail  road  has  been  commenced  at  Tuscumbia, 
which  is  intended  to  connect  with  some  point  of  the  Tennessee  above 
Muscle  Shoals ; and  a convention  recently  called,  to  deliberate  upon  in- 
ternal improvements  expedient  for  the  state,  have  recommended  a rail 
roal  or  canal  communication  between  the  valley  the  Tennessee,  and. 
the  navigable  waters  of  North  Carolina.  General  Jackson’s  military  road,, 
between  lake  Ponchartrain  and  Florence  in  this  state,  runs  almost  in  a 
right  line  330  miles.  If  fully  completed,  and  kept  in  good  repair,  it  would 
be  of  the  greatest  national  utility.  There  are  two  or  three  canals  in  con- 
templation. There  is  no  point,  where  one  seems  to  be  more  called  for,, 
than  between  the  waters  of  the  Tennessee  and  Alabama. 

County  Towns.  Washington,  Centreville,  Bluntsville,  Greenville,. 
Clarksville,  Sparta,  Fayette,  Erie,  Columbia,  Bellfonte,  Elkton,  Moul- 
ton, Athens,  Lowndes,  Lindep,  Pikeville,  Somerville,  Pickensville,  Pike, 
Ashville,  Shelbyville,  Walker,  Washington,  Canton. 

Constitution  and  Laws.  They  have  the  common  features  of  those  of  the 
other  states.  The  legislative  body  is  styled 1 the  assembly.’  The  senators 
are  elected  for  a triennial,  and  the  representative  for  an  annual  term. 
The  governor  serves  two  years,  and  is  eligible  only  four  years  out  of  six. 
The  judiciary  consists  of  a supreme  and  circuit  court,  together  with  sub- 
ordinate courts  appointed  by  the  legislature.  The  judges  are  appointed 
by  the  legislature,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior.  AIL 
persons  over  twenty-one  years,  and  citizens  of  the  United  are  electors. . 


MISSISSIPPI 


This  state  is  not  far  from  300  miles  in  Average  length,  and  160  in 
-average  breadth.  Between  30°  and  34°  N.  latitude ; and  11°  and  14°  W. 
longitude  from  Washington.— -It  contains  28,000,000  acres.  Bounded 
-on  the  North  by  Tennessee;  East  by  Alabama;  South  by  the  gulf  of  Mex- 
ico and  Louisiana  ; West  by  Louisiana  and  the  Mississippi. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 

Names  of  the  Counties. — Adams,  Natchez  City,  Amite,  Jackson,  Jef- 
ferson, Lawrence,  Marion,  Monroe,  Perry*  Pike,  Warren,  Wilkinson, 
Wayne,  Yazoo, Madison. 

Population.  Free  whites'  42,176.  Slaves  32,814.  Total  97,865. 

Face  of  the  country.  There  are  a number  of  distinct  ranges  of  hills, 
of  moderate  elevation,  in  this  state,  beside  a singular  succession  of 
eminences,  that  show  conspicuously,  in  descending  the  Mississippi. 
Some  of  the  bases  of  these  hills  are  washed  by  this  river.  They  are 
the  Walnut  Hills,  Grand  Gulf,  Natchez,  White  Cliffs,  and  Loftus’ 
Heights.  In  other  places,  they  appear  near  the  river,  or  in  the  distance, 
as  at  Petite  Gulf,  Villa  Gayosa  and  Pine  Ridge.  Two  of  these  ranges 
divide  the  state  nearly  in  its  whole  extent,  and  separate  it  into  sectional 
divisions.  In  advancing  from  the  bottoms  of  the  Mississippi,  there  is 
everywhere,  at  a greater,  or  less  distance  from  the  river,  an  appearance 
of  bluffs,  which,  when  mounted,  spread  out  into  a kind  of  table  surface, 
waving  pleasantly;  but  in  many  instances,  the  richest  table  lands  have 
precipitous  benches,  which  expose  the  land,  to  what  is  technically  called 
'by  the  agriculturalists  £ washing.’  This  is  a misfortune,  to  which  the 
richest  lands  in  this  state  are  most  subjected. 


224 


MISSISSIPPI. 


Pine  Ridge  is  a singular  elevation.  It  approaches  within  a mile  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  is  a high  belt  of  pine  land,  like  an  island  in  the  midst  of 
surrounding  rich  land,  timbered  with  hard  woods.  We  know  of  no  pine 
so  near  the  Mississippi,  except  in  one  place,  in  the  county  of  Cape  Gira- 
deau  in  Missouri,  for  a distance  of  1,700  miles.  In  the  northern  section 
of  the  state,  inhabited  by  the  Cherokeejs,  and  Chactaws,  the  land  rises 
into  regular  and  pleasant  undulations.  The  soil,  is  deep,  black,  and  rich* 
presenting  in  a state  of  nature  the  singular  appearance  of  hills  covered 
with  high  cane  brake. — From  their  precipitous  character,  these  fertile  and 
pleasant  hills  are  subject  to  the  general  inconvenience  of  washing.  The 
country,  inhabited,  by  the  Chickasaws,  north-west  of  the  Yazoo  is  also 
of  a surface,  charmingly  variegated  with  swells,  and  vallies  of  great  fer-' 
tility,  and  abounding  in  fine  springs. 

The  White  Cliffs  are  just  below  Catharine’s  Creek.— Loftus’  Heights 
are  a few  miles  lower  on  the  river.  They  are  150  feet  high.  In  the 
strata  of  this  hill  are  seen  the  last  stones,  that  are  discovered  on  descend 
ing  the  Mississippi.  They  are  visible  only  in  low  stages  of  water. 
They  are  of  the  class,  commonly  called  breccia , cemented  with  pebbles 
and  other  matters  into  amass,  apparently  of  recent  formation.  There  is 
probably,  no  state  in  the  union,  and  few  countries  in  the  world  of  a mqre 
pleasantly  diversified  surface,  more  happily  distributed  into,  hills  and 
vallies,  than  the  surface  of  this  state. 

Rivers.  The  Mississippi  washes  the  western  shore  of  this  state  for  a 
distance,  following  its  meanders  of  nearly  seven  hundred  miles.  The 
right  line  of  the  Mississippi  shore  is  less  than  half  that  distance.  But 
the  river  is  here  remarkably  circuitous,  often  curving  round  seven  or 
eight  leagues,  and  almost  returning  back  on  its  course.  The  greater 
part  of  this  long  line  of  river  coast,  unfortunately,  is  inundated  swamp, 
very  thinly  inhabited,  except  by  wood  cutters  for  the  steam  boats,  and 
seldom  seen  by  any.  other,  than  people  travelling  on  the  river.  There  is 
here  and  there  a position  so  high,  as  to  be  capable  of  being  occupied,  as 
a plantation.  But  these  uncommon  elevations  soon  slope  back  to  the 
cypress  swamps. 

The  Yazoo  is  the  most  considerable  river,  whose  course  is  wholly  in 
this  state.  It  rises  in  the  Chickasaw  country,  in  latitude  34°  28',  near 
the  limits  of  Tennessee,  and  its  head  waters  almost  communicate  with 
those  of  Tombigbee.  From  its  source  it  runs  a north-west  course,  re 
ceiving  the  Busha  Yalo,  the  Tallahatchee,  Lappataba,  Buffalo  Creek,  and 
a number  of  less  considerable  streams,  and  by  a mouth  100  yards  wide, 
falls  into  the  Mississippi,  twelve  miles  above  the  Walnut  hills.  Its  course 
is  through  a high,  pleasant  and  salubrious  country,  chiefly  however, 


MISSISSIPPI, 


225 


claimed  and  inhabited  by  Indians.  They  inhabit  the  country,  by  the 
course  of  the  river  150  miles  from  its  mouth.  It  is  generally  boatable  by 
large  boats  fifty  miles;  and  in  the  higher  stages  of  the  water,  to  the  Bu» 
sha  Yalo,  the  missionary  station.  There  is  fine  building  stone  on  this 
river,  in  positions  favorable  for  conveyance  to  New  Orleans,  being  the 
nearest  to  that  city  of  any  on  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  4 backed 
up,’  as  the  phrase  is,  by  the  Mississippi,  in  high  stages  of  water,  or  inun- 
dated by  its  own  rise  for  a number  of  miles  from  its  mouth.  Twelve 
miles  above  its  mouth  are  the  Yazoo  hills,  and  four  miles  higher  the  site 
of  fort  St.  Peter,  where  was  an  ancient  French  settlement,  destroyed 
in  1729,  by  the  Yazoo  Indians,  a nation,  which  in  its  turn,  has  long  since 
since  been  extinct.  On  this  river  and  the  country  which  it  waters,  was 
the  scene  of  the  famous  Yazoo  speculation,  which  will  be  long  and  bit- 
terly remembered  by  certain  unfortunate  speculators;  and  forgotten,  as 
soon  as  may,  be  by  certain  corporate  bodies,  concerned  in  the  sale.  Big 
Black,  or  Lousa  Chitto,  40  yards  wide  afits  mouth,  enters  the  Mississippi, 
just  above  the  Grand  Gulf.  Measuring  its  meanders,  it  has  a course  of 
two  hundred  miles.  It  rises  between  the  .head  waters  of  the  Yazoo  and 
Pearl  rivers,  and  interlocks  with  the  boatable  waters  of  the  latter  stream. 
It  is  navigable,  in  moderate  stages  of  the  water,  fifty  miles. — The  hills  of 
this  river  approach  near  the  Mississippi.  At  some  distance  up  this  river, 
where  the  high  lands  appear  upon  both  sides,  some  New  England  adven- 
turers, headed  by  General  Putnam,  selected  a place  for  a town.  It  was 
in  1773,  when  this  region  was  supposed  to  appertain  to  West  Florida. 
The  soil  is  fine  and  the  situation  eligible.  There  is  stone  for  building; 
and  the  place  seems  to  have  been  judiciously  selected.  Homochitto  is  a 
large  stream,  having  half  the  comparative  length  of  Big  Black.  It  me- 
anders in  a south-west  course  to  the  Mississippi  it  is  formed  by  two 
principal  forks.  A few  miles,  before  it  enters  the  Mississippi,  it  passes 
through  a lake.  It  traverses  a fertile  and  well  settled  country  of  opulent 
planters.  Like  the  Yazoo,  it  is  inundated  for  a long  distance  above  its 
mouth. 

Bayou  Pierre,  Cole’s  Creek,  Fairchild’s  Creek,  and  St.  Catharine’s 
Creek  enters  the  Mississppi  in  succession  below  Big  Black.  They  have 
short  courses,  but  generally  a fine  soil  adjacent  to  their  waters.  On 
Bayou  Pierre  is  the  important  settlement  and  village  of  Gibson  Port. 
Buffalo  Creek  enters  the  Mississippi  a little  above  the  heights  of  fort 
Adams.  Here  at  Loftus’  Heights,  commences  a chain  of  hills,  which 
stretches  north-eastwardly  from  the  Mississippi,  and  separates  the  waters 
of  Bogue  Chitto  and  Amite  from  those  of  Homochitto  and  Buffalo.  On 
the  southern  side  of  these  ridges,  the  waters  flow  into  the  Amite  and  lake 
Ponchartrain,  and  on  the  northern  into  the  Mississippi. 


29 


226 


MISSISSIPPI. 


The  Amite  meanders  from  its  source  in  these  hills  to  the  Ibberville,  or 
Bayou  Manshac,  an  efflux  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Amite  unites  with 
this  Bayou  forty  miles  above  lake  Maurepas.  The  Amite  traverses  a 
pleasant,  productive,  and  well  settled  country,  generally  timbered  with 
hard  woods  and  having  fine  springs. 

Pearl  river  is  next  to  the  Yazoo,  the  most  important  river,  that  has  its 
whole  course  in  this  state.  It  rises  almost  in  the  centre  of  the  state,  be- 
tween the  two  parallel  ranges  of  hills,  that  divide  it  into  sections.  A 
number  of  branches  unite  to  form  the  main  river,  which  is  afterwards  in- 
creased by  the  Chunka,  and  other  streams.  It  passes  by  Monticello  and 
Jackson,  and  through  a country  generally  fertile,  healthy  and  pleasant 
until  it  touches  the  eastern  boundary  of  Louisiana,  after  which  it  receives 
the  Bogue  Lousa  and  Bogue  Chitto,  and  thence,  running  between  this 
state  and  Louisiana,  it  enters  the  rigolets  between  lake  Ponchartrain  and 
Borgne.  The  lands  watered  are  for  the  most  part  fertile,  though  it 
sometimes  traverses  the  sterile  region  of  pine  woods.  Some  legislative 
efforts  have  been  made,  to  improve  the  navigation  of  this  stream,  which 
derives  importance,  from  its  being  one  of  the  chief  points  of  communica- 
tion between  this  state,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  Pascagoula  rises 
in  latitude  33°,  and  preserves  a course  parallel  to  the  Tombigbee,  It  has 
a length  of 250  miles. — Vessels  of  considerable  draught  ascend  it  to  Leaf 
River.  It  receives  in  its  course  a great  number  of  tributary  streams,  of 
which  Chickasaw,  Leaf,  Dog  and  Tacothamba  are  the  principal.  It  has 
some  fertile  alluvions  and  hammock  lands,  but  traverses,  for  the  most  part 
a region  of  pine  country,  sterile,  but  well  watered,  healthy,  and  afford- 
ing in  its  timber,  and  its  conveniences  for  navigation,  a compensation 
for  its  want  of  fertility.  At  its  mouth,  it  broadens  into  an  open  bay,  on 
which,  at  the  town  of  its  own  name,  is  4a  retreat  of  resort  for  the  inhab- 
itants of  New  Orleans,  during  the  sickly  months. 

Islands.  Those  of  the  Mississippi  are  low  and  inundated.  The  . 
islands  in  the  gulf,  within  six  leagues  of  the  front  of  the  state,  belong  to 
it.  They- are  eight,  or  nine  in  number,  of  which  Ship  and  Horn  islands 
are  the  chief.— They  are  generally  sterile  and  covered  with  pines  and 
grass. 

Climate.  This  state,  excepting  a small  tract,  which  fronts  upon  the 
gulf,  constitutes  a belt  lying  between  the  wheat  and  the  sugar  cane  regions, 
in  other  words  the  climate  appropriate  to  cotton.  This  is  the  region, 
where,  in  the  humid  places,  the  long  moss  is  seen  attaching  itself  to  the 
tree.  The  latanier,  or  palmetto,  in  the  brightness  of  its  winter  verdure, 
gives  tropical  features  to  the  landscape. — Alligators  are  seen  in  the  stag- 
nant waters.  The  family  of  laurels  begins  to  be  more  numerous ; and 
the  Laurel  Magnolia  shows  itself  among  them.  Southern  shrubs  and 


MISSISSIPPI. 


227 


flowers  to  one,  coming  from  the  north,  present  the  aspect  of  a new  cli- 
mate. It  is  unfortunate  for  this  state,  that  its  western  front,  bordering  on 
the  Mississippi,  is  so  much  exposed  to  inundation ; and  that  from  the 
same  circumstance  most  of  the  streams,  that  enter  the  Mississippi,  are 
uninhabitable  for  some  distance  from  their  mouth.  At  present  in  de- 
scending the  river,  the  traveller  looks  in  vain,  along  this  very  extended 
front,  for  the  palpable  evidence  of  the  opulence  for  which  this  state  is  so 
deservedly  celebrated.  He  sees  a few  singular  bluffs  rising  in  succes- 
sion, sometimes  at  long  intervals,  from  a dreary  wilderness  of  inundated 
swamp.  The  river  on  this  front,  having  much  higher  inundations,  than 
lower  down,  it  may  be  long,  before  the  people  here  will  leve6  the  rich 
alluvions,  as  they  have  done  in  the  state  below.  But  when  it  is  done, 
an  immense  body  of  the  most  fertile  soil  will  be  redeemed  from  inunda- 
tion; and  the  state  will  gain  as  much  in  salubrity,  as  in  opulence.  Even 
as  it  is,  the  greater  portion  of  the  surface  of  the  state  is  waving  hills,  and 
the^ whole  amount  of  inundated  lands  is  less,  than  in  either  of  the  other 
southern  divisions  of  this  valley. 

Compared  with  Louisiana,  its  waters  have  the  same  fishes,  and  in  win- 
ter-and  spring  the  same  varieties  of  water  fowls,  and  birds  of  beautiful 
plumage  and  song;  and  its  forests  and  prairies,  for  this  state  too,  has  its 
prairies,  the  same  varieties  of  trees  and  flowering  shrubs  and  plants, 
with  very  few  exceptions,  as  that  state,  and  they  will  be  described  un- 
der the  head  of  that  state.  In  health  it  has  decidedly  the  advantage. 
In  that  state,  most  of  the  planters  cultivate  the  deep  river  and  bayou  allu- 
vions, and  stagnant  waters  are  more  abundant.  In  this  state,  where  the 
planters  are  fixed  remote  from  stagnant  waters,  which  in  such  a southern 
climate,  must  always  be  more  or  less  destructive  to  health,  and  have  ac- 
cess to  pure  spring  water,  there  is,  perhaps,  no  part  of  the  United  States, 
where  the  inhabitants  enjoy  better  health.  The  summers,  indeed,  are 
long,  and  the  heat  sustained, and  sometimes  intense;  and  during  the  last 
of  summer  and  first  of  autumn,  the  people  in  the  healthy  districts  are 
subject  to  bilious  attacks,  sometimes  slight,  and  sometimes  severe.  But 
in  return,  they  are  in  a great  measure  free  from  pulmonary  and  catarrhal 
affections,  which  are  so  common  and  fatal  in  the  more  northern  regions 
of  the  United  States.  From  the  centre  of  this  state  to  its  southern  front, 
its  climate  compares  pretty  accurately  with  that  of  south  Alabama, 
Georgia,  the  northern  belt  of  Florida, ‘and  Louisiana;  From  October  to 
June,  no  chmate  can  be  more  delightful . It  has,  indeed,  in  winter  a 
marked  advantage  over  that  of^  flie^%#gions  : just:mentioned.  It  is  some- 
what less  subject  to  the  frequent4fid  drenching  rains  of  Florida  and  Lou- 
isiana. The  people  in  general  aid  healthy,  and  in  travelling  through  the 
state,  we  see  countenances  tanned  and  browned  by  frequent  exposure 


22  8 


MISSISSIPPI. 


to  a southern  sun;  but  at  the  same  time  indicating  vigorous  and  cheerful 
health. 

Indians.  The  principal  tribes  in  this  state  are  the  Chactaws  and 
Ohickasaws.  The  numbers  of  the  former  tribe  are  rated  at  20,000,  and 
-the  latter  at  nearly  4,000.  They  are  at  present  in  a semi-savage  state, 
and  exhibit  the  interesting  spectacle  of  a people,  intermediate  between 
the  hunter’s  and  the  civilized  state,  A curious  compound  of  character 
Tesults  from  this  order  of  things.  Most  of  their  ancient  instincts  and 
^habits  may  still  be  traced  amidst  the  changes,  introduced  by  agriculture 
and  municipal  regulations.  Many  of  them  have  good  houses,  slaves, 
•enclosures  and  cattle.  They  have  ploughs,  looms  "and  blacksmiths’  shops, 
in  operation,  and  are  beginning  to  acquaint  themselves  with  the  coarser 
'mechanic  arts.  They  have  also  commenced  the  adoption  of  our  laws 
-and  modes  of  judicature.  An  Indian  denominated  squire  and  judge, 
becomes  at  once  an  important  personage,  and  these  titles  answer  instead 
-of  a cocked  hat,  a red  coat  and  a medal.  The  different  religious  denom- 
inations in  the  United  States  have  made  a great  and  persevering  effort  to 
convey  to  them  the  blessings  of  education  and  Christianity.  The  princi- 
pal missionary  station,  under  the  patronage  of  the  American  board  for 
foreign  missions,  in  this  state  is  at  Elliot,  on  the  Yalo  Busha  creek,  40 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Yazoo,  and  145  from  the  Walnut  Hills 
on  the  Mississippi.  There  are  a number  cf  subordinate  stations  con- 
nected with  this  principal  one.  Each  station  constitutes  a kind  of  reli- 
gious family  within  itself,  and  has  its  minister,  instructors,  male  and 
female,  its  farmer,  or  agricultural  overseer,  and  its  chief  artizans.  They 
are  all  supposed  to  be  religious  characters.  Schools  for  the  reception  of 
Indian  pupils  constitute  a main  part  of  their  plan,  and  on  the  wisest  pre- 
mises, they  calculate,  by  showing  in  their  own  society  and  example 
the  influence  of  Christian  order  and  discipline,  and  by  sedulous  instruc- 
tion of  children,  to  communicate  education  and  the  rudiments  of  Chris- 
tianity at  the  same  time,  by  precept  and  example ; and  by  showing  in 
their  own  well  cultivated  fields  the  best  modes  of  agriculture,  and  by 
training  their  youthful  pupils  in  the  labors  of  the  field,  at  once  to  inspire 
them  with  the  requisite  patience,  industry  and  love  of  agriculture,  to 
qualify  them  for  commencing  a new  and  an  agricultural  life.  They 
witness  a growing  attention  of  the  Indians  to  the  municipal  and  Christian 
modes  of  life  in  the  increased  number  of  their  pupils,  which,  from  the 
last  reports,  appear  to  be  very  considerable.  They  have  large  fields^ 
good  houses,  mechanic  shops,  regular  worship;  and  the  praises  of  God 
and  the  Redeemer,  in  the  sweet  and  cultivated  strains  of  church  music, 
^ resound  in  these  ancient  forests,  instead  of  the  war  and  death  song  of 
the  savages.  The  plan  and  the  whole  system  are  entirely  novel  in  the 


MISSISSIPPI. 


229 


annals  of  Christian  exertion.  It  is  a kind  of  protestant  monastic  estab- 
lishment, with  modifications  suited  to  the  more  practical  views  of  that 
church,  and  constitutes  a most  interesting  and  striking  feature  in  the 
missionary  exertions  of  the  present  day. — All  good  minds  must  be  dis- 
posed to  wish  them  every  degree  of  success.  They  have  a fine  country, 
fertile  soil,  hills,  springs,  prairies,  copses,  beautiful  scenery,  and  a mild 
climate,  which  has  hitheito  proved  as  salubrious,  as  they  could  have 
anticipated;  and  their  prospects  for  the  future  are  encouraging.  They 
are  to  a certain  degree  patronised,  and  aided  by  the  government  of  the 
United  States. 

Agriculture  and  pursuits  of  the  jpeople.  All  the  kinds  of  grains, 
fruits  and  vegetables,  that  can  be  cultivated  in  Alabama,  can  also  be 
grown  here.  The  sugar  cane  has  hitherto  been  attempted  only  on  its 
southern  frontier.  The  sweet  orange  is  raised  on  the  lower  waters  of 
Pascagoula  and  Pearl  rivers.  The  live  oak,  too,  is  only  seen  in  this  part 
of  the  state.  In  the  middle  regions,  figs,  grapes  of  all  sorts,  tobacco, 
maize,  sweet  potatoes,  rice,  indigo  squashes,  melons,  plums,  peaches 
and  various  other  vegetables  and  fruits  come  to  full  perfection.  The  castor 
bean,  or  Palma  Christi,  and  the  benne  plant  are  sometimes  raised.  In 
the  high  and  midland  regions,  it  is  affirmed,  that  apples  and  pears  arrive 
at  tolerable  perfection.  This  state,  being  on  the  southern  verge  of  the 
medial  climate,  is  a country,  where  a great  variety  of  the  articles  of  tire 
north  and  the  south  may  be  expected  to  come  to  maturity. 

Cotton  is  the  grand  staple,  and  grows  in  perfection  in  all  parts  of  the 
■state.  It  is,  perhaps,  too  exclusively  the  object  of  though!,  attention 
and  cultivation.  In  the  early  part  of  the  season  the  conversation  turns 
■upon  the  .point,  how  the  crop  stands  ; that  is,  whether  it  has  germinated, 
and  remained  in  a healthy  and  vigorous  state?  The  next  object  of  anxi- 
ety is,  whether  it  takes,  as  the  phrase  is,  4 the  rot;’  then  about  the  favora- 
bleness  of  the  season  for  picking;  then  the  state  of  the  gins,  and  the 
amount  bailed.— -The  last  and  most  interesting  of  all  is  the  price,  it  is 
likely  to  bear.  In  the  halcyon  days,  when  cotton  brought  28  and  30 
■cents  per  pound,  there  were  planters,  who  had  thirty  and  forty  thousand 
dollars  a year,  as  the  income  of  their  crop.  In  those  times  some  of  the 
planters  secured  independent  fortunes,  and  many  of  them  became  afflu- 
ent. Even  at  the  present  very  reduced  prices,  no  planters  in  the  United 
•States  have  better  incomes,  in  proportion  to  their  capital  and  hands,  than 
those  of  this  state.  The  number  of  working  hands  on  a plantation  varies 
from  20  to  200.  It  is  but  recently,  that  the  inhabitants  have  been  much 
in  habits  of  travelling  out  of  of  their  own  state.  They  are  for  the  most 
part  a plain,  simple,  industrious,  hospitable  and  respectable  people, 
accustomed  to  a retired  life  in  the  interior  of  the  country.  They  are 


230 


MISSISSIPPI. 


generally,  and  honorably,  with  some  few  exceptions,  kind  and  indulgent 
masters  to  their  slaves.  A few,  who  have  acquired  fortunes  without 
much  previous  education,  or  refinement,  and  measuring  their  own  know- 
ledge, acquirements  and  importance  only  by  their  intercourse  with  their 
slaves,  are  astonished,  when  they  go  abroad  to  find,  that  there  are  other 
requisites,  in  order  to  be  sought  after,  and  introduced  to  the  best  circles, 
than  the  possession  of  money  and  slaves. 

Attention  to  schools,  religion,  S$c.  The  same  appropriations  for  pub- 
lic works  and  for  education  are  made  in  this  state,  as  in  Alabama. 
The  benefits  of  a common  school  education  are  not  so  extensively  enjoyed 
in  any  of  the  southern  states  of  this  valley,  as  could  be  wished.  The 
whole  business  is  generally  managed  by  subscription,  and  voluntary 
association.  Where  this  is  the  case,  and  where  there  is  no  direct  inter- 
ference of  the  legislature,  to  compel  the  people  to  educate  their  children, 
many  of  the  reckless  and  inconsiderate  will  allow  them  to  grow  up  with 
out  any  education.  There  are  ample  public  funds  for  the  endowment  of 
schools ; and  there  is  a growing  sense  of  the  importance  of  schools  on  the 
public  mind.  A seminary,  entitled  6 Jefferson  college,’  is  incorporated  at 
Washington  near  Natchez.  It  ranks  with  the  academies  of  the  Atlantic 
country.  Another  institution,  called  a college, ’is  incorporated  at  Shield- 
borough,  and  there  are  flourishing  public  schools  at  Natchez,  Wood- 
ville  and  Monticello. 

Constitution.  In  every  principal  feature  the  same,  as  that  of  Alabama. 

Chief  Towns.  Monticello,  the  capital  of  Lawrence  county,  and  re- 
cently of  the  state,  is  a pleasant  and  flourishing  village  on  the  west  bank 
of  Pearl  river.  Gibson  Port,  at  the  head  of  navigation  bn  Bayou  Pierre, 
is  situated  in  the  centre  of  a rich  country,  and  is  a village  of  considera- 
ble importance.  Greenville,  Woodville  and  Winchester  are  flourishing 
villages.  Shieldsborough  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  bay  of  St. 
Louis.  It  is  swept  by  the  cool  breezes  of  the  gulf,  and,  though  it  has 
not  always  been  exempt  from  the  ravages  of  yellow  fever,  is  a famed 
resort  for  the  inhabitants  of  New  Orleans,  during  the  sickly  months. 

Jackson,  near  the  head  of  Pearl  river,  and  on  a site  lately  acquired 
from  the  Chactaw  Indians,  has  been  selected,  as  the  permanent  seat  of 
government  for  the  state.  It  is  a central,  healthy  and  pleasant  position, 
and  the  circumstance  of  its  being' the  political  metropolis,  will  soon 
cause  it  to  become  a place  of  importance. 

Warrenton,  below  the  Walnut  Hills,  is  a considerable  village  on  the 
banks  of  the  Mississippi,  from  which  are  exported  Targe  quantities  of 
cotton.  Vicksburgh,  just  below  the  commencement  of  the  Walnut  Hills, 
is  one  of  the  many  towns  in  the  western  country,  which  have  been  the 
growth  of  but  a few  years.  It  is  not  more  than  five,  or  six  years,  old, 


MISSISSIPPI* 


231 


and  it  is  now  a considerable  village,  with  a number  , of  stores,  lawyers 
and  physicians.  It  has  a printing  press  and  a journal.  Many  boats 
are  always  lying  in  the  harbor,  and  it  sends  off  a great  amount  of  cotton. 
Steam  boats  regularly  ply  between  this  place  and  New  Orleans.  It  is  a 
most  singular  position  for  a town,  on  the  shelving  declivity  of  high  hills, 
and  the  houses  are  scattered  in  groups  on  the  terraces.  • 

Natchez  is  by  far  the  largest  town  in  the  state,  and  is  incorporated  as  a 
city.  It  is  romantically  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  on 
a very  high  bluff,  280  miles  above  New  Orleans.  The  river  business  is 
transacted  at  the  division  of  the  town  which  is  called  ‘under  the  hill,’  a 
repulsive  place,  and  unhappily,  but  too  often  the  resort  of  all  that  is  vile, 
from  the  upper  and  lower  country.  Great  numbers  of  boats  are  always 
lying  here,  and  the  place  is  filled  with  boatmen,  mulattos,  houses  of  ill 
fame,  and  their  wretched  tenants,  in  short,  the  refuse  of  the  human  race. 
There  are,  however,  very  respectable  merchants  resident  ‘under  the  hill.’ 
The  upper  town  is  situated  on  the  summit  of  a bluff,  300  feet  above  the 
common  level  of  the  river,  from  which  there  is  a prospect  of  the  cultivat- 
ed margin  of  the  Mississippi  in  Concordia,  on  the  opposite  shore ; and 
the  eye  traverses  the  boundless  and  level  surfaces  of  the  cypress  swamps 
beyond.  On  the  eastern  side,  the  country  is  waving,  rich  and  beautiful; 
the  eminences  presenting  open  woods  covered  with  grape  vines,  and  here 
and  there  neat  country  houses.  The  town  itself  is  quiet;  the  streets 
broad;  some  of  the  public  buildings  handsome;  and  the  whole  has  the 
appearance  of  comfort  and  opulence.  It  is  the  principal  town  in  this 
region  for  the  shipment  of  cotton,  with  balps  of  which,  at  the  proper 
season  of  the  year,  the  streets  are  almost  barricaded.  Some  opulent 
planters  reside  here,  and  there  is  a respectable  and  polished  society. — - 
The  physicians  and  lawyers  are  distinguished  in  their  profession,  and 
there  is  no  inconsiderable  attention  to  literature.  A very  numerous 
population  from  the  contiguous  country  makes  its  purchases  here,  and 
it  is  a place  of  great  trade  for  its  size.  The  people  are  noted 
for  opulence  and  hospitality.  From  the  heights  in  this  city  they  show 
you  the  site  of  Fort  Rosalie,  the'scene  of  the  wild,  but  splendid  and  af- 
fecting romance  of  Attala.  There  is  a Presbyterian,  an  Episcopal,  a 
Roman  Catholic,  a Baptist,  and  Methodist  church  here,  and  the  people 
show  a great,  and  for  the  southern  country,  an  uncommon  attention  to 
the  ordinances  of  worship  and  religion.  The  court  house  makes  a re- 
spectable appearance.  Notwithstanding  the  cleanliness,  elevation, 
and  apparent  purity  of  the  atmosphere  of  this  town,  it  has  been  often 
visited  with  yellow  fever.  To  this  circumstance  it  is  undoubtedly 
owing,  that  its  population  does  not  advance,  as  might  be  expected,  from 
its  beautiful  position.  It  contains  not  far  from  3,000  inhabitants,— 


232 


MISSISSIPPI. 


Steam  boats  are  constantly  coming  to  this  place,  or  departing  from  it, 
and  the  arriving  and  departing  gun  is  heard  at  all  hours  of  the  day  and 
of  the  night;  and  as  they  are  seen  sweeping  along  the  majestic  river, 
they  add  greatly  to  the  grandeur  and  interest  of  the  scenery  of  this  town. 

'Washington  is  a pleasant  and  healthy  village  five  miles  in  the  interior 
from  Natchez,  and  is  a resort  as  a place  of  retirement  from  that  town, 
when  sickly.  It  is  the  seat  of  Jefferson  college,  which  is  an  institution, 
with  considerable  endowments,  that  under  its  present  respectable  teach- 
ers, promises  to  become  a seminary  of  importance. 

History.  Greater  part  of  this  state  originally  was  occupied  by  the 
Chactaws  and  other  Indians.  Their  title  has  been  chiefly  extinguished 
by  purchased  cessions  of  lands.  The  state,  by  a recent  enactment,  has 
extended  its  political  jurisdiction  over  them,  and  declared  them  subject 
to  its  laws. 

Mississippi  was  admitted  into  the  union  in  1817.  By  a recent  enact- 
ment it  has  abolished  a former  law,  which  prohibited  the  location  of  a 
Branch  Bank  of  the  United  States  in  this  State.  Near  Natchez  were 
the  central  villages  of  the  interesting  nation  of  Natchez  Indians,  now 
extinct.  Question  about  the  territorial  right  to  this  region  was  long  the 
apple  of  discord  between  the  Spanish  and  the  French,  the  Spanish  and 
English,  and  between  the  government  of  the  former,  and  that  of  the 
United  States.  Alabama  was  recently  taken  from  it. 


LOUISIANA. 


Length,  240  miles.  Breadth,  210,  containing  48,220  square  miles. 
Between  29°  and  33°  30'  N.  latitude,  and  12°  and  17°  3'  W.  longitude. 
Bounded  east  by  Mississippi  state,  and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  and  by  the 
river  Mississippi  from  31°  to  33°,  and  thence  by  the  parallel  of  31°  to 
Pearl  river ; thence  by  that  stream  to  its  mouth;  South  by  the  gulf  of 
Mexico;  West  by  the  river  Sabine,  which  separates  it  from  the  Mexican 
States,  and  following  that  river  to  the  parallel  of  32°,  thence  due  North 
to  33°,  thence  due  east  to  the  Mississippi. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS, 

Names  of  the  Parishes.  Ascension,  (parish,)  Assumption,  (do.) 
Avoyelles,  (do.)  Baton  Rouge,  (east,)  (do.)  Baton  Rouge,  (west,)  (do.) 
Claiborne,  (do.)  Concordia,  (do.)  Xbberville,  (do.)  Lafourche,  (interior,) 
(do.)  Natchitoches,  New  Orleans,  (city,)  New  Orleans,  (parish,)  Cata- 
houla, (do.)  Opelousas,  (county,)  Plaquemine,  (parish,)  Point  Coupee, 
(county,)  Rapides,  (parish,)  St.  Bernard,  (do.)  St.  Charles,  (do.)  St. 
Helena,  (do.)  St.  James,  (do.)  St.  John  Baptiste,  (do.)  St.  Tammany, 
(do.)  Washington,  (do.)  Washita,  (do.) 

Population , by  the  census  of  1830.  Free  whites,  89,191.  Slaves, 
109,631.  Total,  215,575.  The  most  populous  parts  of  the  state,  after 
New  Orleans,  are  the  coast,  Feliciana,  Attakpasas,  and  Opelousas,  and 
the  Parish  of  Rapides,  and  Natchitoches. 

In  1785,  what  is  now  the  state  of  Louisiana,  contained,  under  the 
Spanish  government,  27,283  inhabitants.  In  1810,  it  being  then  the 
Territory  of  Orleans,  under  the  American  government,  it  contained 
75,556,  of  which  34,660  were  slaves.  In  1820,  153,407.  This  shows 
a. very  rapid*  increase  in  population.  It  nearly  tripled  in  17  years,  pre- 
ceeding  1810.  It  more  than  doubled  between  1810  and  1820.  Extra- 
ordinary as  this  ratio  of  increase  is,  it  is  by  no  means  in  proportion  to 
jthat  of  many  other  of  the  western  states. 


30 


234 


LOUISIANA. 


No  state  in  the  union  has  a greater  body  of  first  rate  land ; though 
nine  tenths  of  the  good  alluvial  district,  from  the  delta  of  the  Mississippi 
to  the  mouth  of  Red  River,  is  either  annually  overflowed,  or  perpetually 
covered  with  shallow  lakes  forever  steaming  miasm  into  the  atmosphere. 
Were  the  same  labor  and  expense,  which  have  been  bestowed  in  digging 
for  gold  in  the  gold  districts  of  the  South,  applied  in  draining  and  canal- 
ling  this  vast  dismal  and  noxious  swamp,  the  avails  of  reclaimed  sugar 
and  rice  lands,  would  not  only  yield  a hundred  times  the  profit,  but  New 
Orleans  would  become  as  healthy  as  any  other  town  in  the  same  latitude, 
and  the  centre  of  a more  productive  agriculture,  and  possessing  easier 
water  communications  with  it,  than  any  other  city  in  the  world. 

The  question,  why  the  state,  which  has  waste  lands,  as  fertile  as  any  in 
the  western  country,  an  agriculture  unquestionably  the  richest,  and  un- 
rivalled advantages  of  access  to  the  sea,  and  of  internal  water  communi- 
cations, does  not  people  faster,  may  be  answered  by  the  assignment  of 
various  causes.  The  country  has  universally,  abroad,  the  reputation  of 
being  sickly,  by  impressions  founded  on  exaggerated  reports,  not  at  all 
warranted  by  facts.  New  Orleans  has  been  repeatedly  desolated,  it  is 
true,  by  the  yellow  fever;  and  public  opinion  has,  probably,  identified 
the  sickliness  of  the  whole  country  with  that  of  that  city.  It  cannot  be 
denied,  that  there  are  parts  of  this  state  which  are  intrinsically  sickly; 
and  that  there  is  much  land,  and  that  of  the  richest  character,  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  immense  marshes,  lakes,  and  stagnant  waters,  the 
contiguity  of  which  must  necessarily  be  noxious  to  health.  Neither  can 
it  be  denied,  that  a country  which  has  such  an  undue  proportion  of  slaves 
is  unfavorably  situated  for  advancing  in  population.  Another  impedi- 
ment may  be  found  in  the  difficulty  of  adjusting  the  numerous  and  con- 
flicting land  claims.  It  has  thus  happened,  that  neither  the  claimants, 
nor  congress  could  bring  them  into  market  for  want  of  adjustment. — 
Large  claims  to  the  finest  portions  of  land  in  the  state  have  not  yet  been 
adjudicated  by  Congress ; and  purchasers  have  not  felt  secure  in  the  titles 
of  the  claimants.  A country,  too,  settled  by  opulent  planters,  is  unfa- 
vorably situated  for  increase  in  population.  It  is  discouraging  to  a free- 
holder, with  his  naked  hands,  or  a small  force,  to  sit  down  beside  a planter 
with  an  hundred  working  hands.  It  is  natural,  that  the  ‘petit  paysan’ 
should  imagine  that  he  sees  contempt  in  the  deportment  of  his  wealthy 
neighbor  towards  him.  But  notwithstanding  all  these  adverse  circum- 
stances, this  state  is  making  steady  advances  in  population. 

Face  of  the  country , soil , 8$c.  Three  quarters  of  the  stcde  are  with- 
out an  elevation,  that  can  be  properly  called  a hill.  The  pine  woods 
generally  have  a surface  of  a very  particular  character,  rising  into  fine 
swells,  with  table  surfaces  on  the  summit,  and  vallies  from  30  to  40  feet 


LOUISIANA. 


235 


deep.  But  they  are  without  any  particular  range,  and  like  the  waves  of 
a high  and  regular  sea.  The  alluvial  soil  is  level,  and  the  swamps, 
which  are  the  only  inundated  alluvions,  are  dead  flats.  The  vast  prairies 
which  constitute  a large  portion  of  the  surface  of  the  state,  have,  in  a 
remarkable  degree,  all  the  distinctive  aspects  of  prairies.  To  the  eye 
they  seem  as  level  as  the  still  surface  of  a lake.  They  are,  except  the 
quaking  prairies,  higher  and  dryer  than  the  savannas  of  Florida.  A range 
of  hills  commences  in  gentle  elevations  in  Opelousas,  rises  gradually,  and 
diverges  towards  the  Sabine.  In  the  vicinity  of  Natchitoches  it  preserves 
a distance,  intermediate  between  the  Sabine  and  Red  River,  and  con- 
tinues to  increase  in  elevation  to  the  western  parts  of  the  state.  Seen 
from  the  Pine  Hills  above  Natchitoches,  they  have  in  the  distance,  the 
blue  outline  of  a range  of  mountains.  Another  line  of  hills,  not  far 
from  Alexandria,  commences  on  the  north  side  of  Red  River,  and  sepa- 
rating between  the  waters  of  that  river  and  Dudgemony,  unites  with  an- 
other line  of  hills,  that  bound  the  alluvions  of  the  Washita,  as  bluffs, 
gradually  diverging  from  that  river,  as  they  pass  beyond  the  western 
limits  of  the  state.  The  new  and  remote  parish  taken  from  Natchitoches, 
called  Claiborne,  or  Allen’s  Settlement,  is  a high  and  rolling  country. — - 
There  are  considerable  hills  beyond  the*Mississippi  alluvions,  east  of  that 
river.  But,  generally  speaking,  Louisiana  is  one  immense  plain,  divided 
into  pine  woods,  prairies,  alluvions,  swamps,  and  hickory  and  oak  lands. 

The  pine  woods  are  generally  rolling;  sometimes,  but  not  often,  level. 
They  have  almost  invariably  a poor  soil,  sufficiently  described  in  our  ac- 
count of  Florida  and  Alabama.  They  possess  the  same  character  here, 
except,  that  creeks  are  more  common,  with  more  extensive  and  somewhat 
richer  bottoms;  and  there  is,  perhaps,  a greater  proportion  of  laurels, 
oaks  and  hickories  among  the  pines.  The  greater  proportion  of  the 
prairies  is  second  rate  land.  Some  of  those  west  of  Opelousas,  and  be- 
tween Washita  and  Red  River  are  even  sterile.  Some  parts  of  the  prai- 
ries of  Opelousas  are  of  great  fertility,  and  those  of  Attakapas  still  more 
so.  As  a general  fact,  they  are  more  level  than  those  of  the  upper  coun- 
try. A large  belt  of  these  prairies,  near  the  gulf,  is  low,  marshy,  and  in 
rainy  weather  inundated.  A very  considerable  extent  of  them  has  a 
cold  clayey  soil,  with  a hard  pan  near  the  Surface.  In  other  places  the 
soil  is  of  inky  blackness,  and  disposed  in  the  hot  and  dry  season  to  crack 
in  fissures,  of  a size  to  admit  a man’s  arm. 

The  bottoms  are  generally  rich,  but  in  very  different  degrees.  Those 
of  the  Mississippi  and  Red  River,  and  the  bayous  connected  with  those 
streams,  are  more  fertile  and  productive  than  the  streams  west  of  them, 
and  between  them  and  the  Sabine.  The  fertility  of  the  richer  bottoms 
of  the  Mississippi  and  Red  River  is  sufficiently  attested  by  the  prodigious 


236 


LOUISIANA. 


growth  of  the  timber,  the  luxuriance,  size  and  rankness  of  the  cane,  and 
the  cotton,  the  tangle  of  vines  and  creepers,  the  astonishing  size  of  the 
weeds,  and  the  strength  of  vegetation  in  general.  We  have  measured  a 
fig  tree,  and  a sumach,  both  ordinarily  considered  as  shrubs,  which  were 
larger  than  a man’s  body.  The  richness  of  the  articles  of  cultivation  is 
sufficiently  well  known.  The  cotton  on  fresh  lands  of  the  richest  quality 
grows  to  the  size  of  a considerable  shrub. 

The  districts  of  Louisiana,  which  have  the  richest  soils,  are  the  follow- 
ing:—1st.  The  island  of  New  Orleans.  This  is  so  denominated  in 
geography,  and  correctly.  Not  far  below  Baton  Rouge,  a bayou,  or  efflux* 
called  Manshac,  or  Ibberville  makes  out  from  the  Mississippi,  which,  in  its 
course,  receives  other  waters,  until  swollen  to  a considerable  river,  it  falls 
into  Lake  Maurepas.  That  again  is  connected  by  a narrow  gorge  with 
Lake  Ponchartrain,  and  that  by  the  rigolets  with  Lake  Borgne  and  the 
Gulf.  The  Mississippi  insulates  it  on  the  other  side.  Consequently* 
the  island  of  New  Orleans  is  a narrow  strip  of  land,  stretching  between 
this  range  of  lakes  and  the  river.  About  one-third  of  the  average  width 
of  this  strip  is  under  cultivation.  The  other  two-thirds  are  swamp.  Its 
front  is  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Mississippi ; and  its  rear  is  this  bayou 
and  this  line  of  lakes.  The  bayo'u  Manshac,  which  completes  the  insular 
character  of  this  tract,  is  narrow,  and  is  seldom  seen  by  persons  descend- 
ing the  Mississippi.  This  tract  is  the  finest  part  of  that  rieh  country* 
called  the  coast.  The  coast  is  that  part  of  the  bottom  of  the 
Mississippi,  which  commences  with  the  first  cultivation  above  the  Balize* 
that  is  to  say,  about  40  miles  below  New  Orleans  and  150  above.  This 
belt  on  each  side  of  the  river  is  secured  by  an  embankment,  called  a 
levee,  from  6 to  8 feet  in  height,  and  sufficiently  broad,  for  the  most 
part,  to  furnish  a fine  high  way.  The  river,  in  ordinary  inundations, 
would  cover  the  greater  part  of  this  belt  from  two  to  six  feet  in  depths 
It  is  from  one  to  two  miles  in  width,  and  perhaps  a richer  tract  of  land 
of  the  same  extent  cannot  be  found  on  the  globe.  The  levee  extends 
something  higher  on  the  west  than  on  the  east  side  of  the  river.  xYbove 
the  levee  on  the  east  bank  of  the  river  are  the  parishes  of  Baton  Rouge* 
and  East  and  West  Feliciana.  The  latter  parish  received  its  name 
from  its  pleasant  surface  of  fertile  hills  and  vallies,  and  its  union  of  de- 
sirable circumstances  for  a planting  country.  This  parish  presents  a 
spectacle  very  uncommon  in  this  country,  hills  that  are  covered  with  laur- 
els and  forest  trees,  that  denote  the  richest  soil.  Here  are  some  of  the 
richest  planters  and  best  plantations  in  the  state.  Bayou  Sarah,  the  point 
of  shipment  for  this  region,  sends  great  quantities  of  cotton  to  New 
Orleans.  Some  of  the  plantations  on  this  bayou  have  from  5 to  800 
acres  under  cultivation,  worked  by  a large  number  of  hands. 


LOUISIANA. 


237 


West  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Bayous  Lafourche  and  Plaquemine,  effluxes 
Or  outlets  from  the  Mississippi,  have  the  same  conformation  of  banks, 
and  1 he  same  qualities  of  soil  with  the  parent  stream;  and,  where  not 
inundated,  are  equally  fertile.  The  sugar  cane  thrives  as  well  upon  their 
banks.  No  inconsiderable  portion  of  Attakapas  is  of  great  fertility,  as 
are  smaller  portions  of  Opelousas,  which  is,  however,  more  generally 
adapted  to  become  a grazing  country.  The  Teche,  which  meanders 
through  Opelousas  and  Attakapas  has  generally  a very  fertile  alluvion* 
the  lower  courses  of  which  are  embellished  with  'fine  plantations  of 
sugar  cane.  On  the  Atchafalaya  the  lands  are  rich,  but  too  generally 
inundated.  The  Courtableau,  running  through  Opelousas,  has  probably 
as  rich  a soil  as  is  to  be  found  in  that  parish.  Approaching  Red  River 
from  Opelousas,  by  Bayou  Boeuf,  we  find  on  that  bayou  a soil,  which 
some  consider  the  richest  cotton  land  in  Louisiana.  Bayou  Rouge  has 
also  a fine  soil,  though  it  is  as  yet  principally  in  a state  of  nature.— 
Bayou  Robert,  still  nearer  to  Red  River,  is  of  extraordinary  fertility,  and 
the  cane  brake  along  its  bank  is  of  astonishing  luxuriance.  Bayou 
Rapide,  which  gives  name  to  the  parish,  through  which  it  runs,  is  a beau- 
tiful tract  of  land ; and  the  belt  on  either  bank  is  laid  out  along  its  whole 
course  in  fine  cotton  plantations/ 

The  bottoms  of  Red  River  are  well  known  as  possessing  extraordinary 
fertility ; and  the  lower  courses  of  this  river  constitute  the  paradise  of  cotton 
planters.  The  color  of  the  soil  is  of  a darkish  red,  and  appears  to  derive 
its  great  fertility  from  a portion  of  salt  intimately  mixed  with  it,  and 
from  its  peculiar  friability.  It  derives  its  red  colour  from  red  oxide  of 
iron.  It  is  a wide  and  deep  valley,  covered,  while  in  a state  of  nature, 
with  a dark  and  heavy  forest.  Its  soil  has  been  accumulating  for  un- 
known ages  from  the  spoils  of  the  Mexican  mountains,  and  the  vast 
prairies,  through  which  it  rolls  in  its  upper  courses.  All  the  bayous  of 
Red  River,  and  they  are  numerous  almost  beyond  computation,  partake 
of  the  character  of  the  main  river. 

The  parish  of  Natchitoches  has  its  plantations  on  the  bank  of  Red 
River,  and  its  divisions;  for  the  river  runs  in  this  parish  for  a considerable 
distance  in  three  parallel  divisions.  A vast  body  of  rich  alluvial  lands, 
on  the  river  above  Natchitoches,  is  yet  covered  by  unadjudicated  claims, 
or  belongs  to  the  United  States.  The  lands  on  the  Washita  are  black, 
like  those  . on  the  Mississippi.  The  alluvions  on  the  lower  courses  of  this 
river  furnish  an  admirable  soil  for  cotton,  and  all  productions  that  require 
the  same  climate.  The  finest  lands  on  this  river  are  covered  by  the  un- 
adjudicated claims  of  the  Baron  de  Bastrop,  Maison  Rouge,  and  Winter. 
These  claims  are  of  .great  extent;  and,  the  lands,  generally  first  rate. 
These  are  the  districts  in  Louisiana  most  noted  for  possessing  first  rate 


238 


LOUISIANA* 


lands.  But  in  this  level  region,  wholly  free  from  mountains,  and  precipi- 
tous hills,  and  sterile  heaths,  there  occur  even  in  the  pine  woods  and 
the  poorest  prairies,  tracts,  that  in  other  parts  of  the  United  States  would 
be  called  comparatively  fertile 

Agriculture  and  productions.  Wheat  and  rye  do  not  flourish  here. 
The  culture  of  these  grains  has  been  attempted,  and  it  is  said  with  suc- 
cess in  Allen’s  settlement  in  the  north-west  angle  of  the  state.  But  in 
general  the  stalks  grow  too  rapidly,  and  lodge,  before  they  come  to  matu- 
rity.  Barley  and  oats  succeed  well. — The  latter  are  generally  mowed 
for  fodder  at  the  latter  end  of  April.  Maize  grows  luxuriantly  on  the 
alluvions  and  rich  lands.  But  although  this  fine  crop  has  a wonderful 
luxuriance  of  growth,  it  is  more  congenial  to  the  climates  of  Kentucky* 
Ohio,  Missouri,  and  Illinois,  or  the  cooler  climates  of  the  middle  states. 
In  the  south  it  grows  with  such  rapidity,  and  is  pushed  forward  so  fast  by 
the  soil  and  climate,  that  it  does  not  rear  a stalk  of  equal  size  and  firmness., 
with  that  attained  in  the  former  climates.— Nevertheless,  fifty,  sixty,  and 
even  seventy  bushels  to  the  acre  are  not  uncommon  crops.  Forty-five 
bushels  may  be  assumed  as  the  medium  crop  of  the  maize  lands  in  this 
state. 

The  sweet  potatoe,  convulvulus  batatas , in  the  sandy  soils  of  this  state 
attains  its  utmost  perfection.  We  have  seen  one,  which  weighed  nine 
pounds.  They"  are  of  different  species ; but  all  extremely  nutritive* 
and  raised  with  great  ease  and  abundance.  They  are  the  favorite 
food  of  the  blacks,  and  constitute  an  excellent  nutriment  for  all  classes. 
The  Irish  potatoe  is , raised  with  more  difficulty,  and  is  not  cultivated  ex- 
cept for  eating  in  the  early  part  of  the  summer  * and  for  some  cause  not 
yet  explained,  can  not  be  preserved  through  the  year. 

The  usual  garden  vegetables  are  cultivated  in  abundance;  though 
some,  as  for  instance,  cabbages  do  not  grow  as  fine,  as  at  the  north.  The 
asparagus  is  indifferent.— Onions  do  not  grow  the  first  year  to  any  size. 
Small  onions  of  the  preceding  year  are  placed  in  the  ground  for  setts. 
The  pumpkin  and  the  melon  tribe  flourish  in  this  climate.  All  the  nor- 
thern fruits  come  to  perfection,  with  the  exception  of  apples.  The  apple 
tree  covers  itself  with  blossoms  and  fruit,  which,  before  it  ripens,  begins 
to  show  a black  speck,  rots,  and  falls.  Figs  of  the  different  kinds  grow 
in  the  greatest  abundance,  and  from  descriptions  of  the  tree  in  the  east- 
ern continent,  we  should  suppose,  that  it  here  attains  its  largest  size. 
They  might  be  raised  in  great  abundance  for  exportation.  All  that  is 
necessary  for  raising  this  delicious  fruit,  is  to  put  a slip  of  the  tree  in 
ground.  It  is  astonishing,  that  such  a fruit  which  grows  almost  sponta* 
neously,  is  hardly  raised,  except  on  a few  farms,  even  for  summer 
eating. 


LOUISIANA. 


239 


Below  Point  Coupee  on  the  coast,  on  the  lower  courses  of  the  Teche, 
Lafourche,  Plaquemine,  and  along  the  whole  shore  of  the  gulf,  that  is  to 
say  in  the  region  of  the  sugar  cane,  the  orange  tree,  sweet  and  bitter, 
flourishes,  and  the  fruit  is  of  the  finest  quality.  Previous  to  1822  oranges 
were  lying  under  the  trees,  as  the  apples  at  the  north.  A severe  frost 
that  winter,  destroyed  the  trees  in  this  state  quite  to  the  ground.  The 
roots  have  thrown  out  new  trees,  which  are  again  in  a bearing  state. 
The  olive  would  undoubtedly  flourish.  It  is  believed,  that  there  are  a 
few  trees  in  bearing  in  the  state.  The  cultivated  vine,  vitis  vinifera , 
flourishes,  and  an  abundance  of  fine  fruit  is  offered  in  the  markets.  Wild 
grapes  as  the  summer,  winter,  fox,  muscadine  and  pine  wood’s  grape 
abound.  Berries  are  neither  so  common,  nor  so  good,  as  at  the  north. 
Persimons  and  pawpaws  and  a variety  of  haws  and  wild  fruit  are 
common  in  the  woods. 

It  would  carry  us  beyond  our  object,  to  describe  the  wild  and  cultivat- 
ed flowering  shrubs,  which  flourish  in  this  region  of  flowers.  The 
jessamine,  the  althea  and  rose  class  are  the  most  common.  The  multi 
flora  is  a running  vine,  which  attains  an  inconceivable  luxuriance.  Two 
or  three  summers  only  are  necessary,  completely  to  envelope  a building 
with  this  grateful  verdure,  and  these  abundant  flowers.  China,  Catalpa, 
and  sycamore  are  the  most  common  ornamental  trees.  The  abundance 
of  mulberry  trees  seems  to  invite  the  making  of  silk,  in  a climate  similar 
to  those,  where  it  is  made  in  the  greatest  quantities  in  the  old 
world. 

Agriculture  is  in  its  infancy,  and  in  a state  of  roughness  adapted  only 
to  the  labor  of  negroes ; and  has  for  its  object  only  to  obtain  the  greatest 
amount  of  the  staple  crop.  A great  number  of  rich  fruits  and  valuable 
productions,  congenial  to  such  a soil  and  climate,  have  been  en- 
tirely unattempted.  Experiments,  except  in  regard  to  the  selection  of 
the  befct  kinds  of  cotton,  and  the  best  mode  of  growing  it,  or  the  kind  of 
cane  that  is  most  productive,  have  not  been  commenced.  One  or  two 
spirited  individuals  have  recently  attempted  to  awaken  attention  to  the 
cultivation  of  the  tea  plant.  Benne,  which  yields  an  oil,  like  that  of 
olives,  succeeds  well.  Indigo  was  formerly  a prime  object  of  attention 
with  the  planters.  The  cultivation  has  been  of  late  in  a great  measure 
abandoned.  The  rice  is  remarkably  fair,  and  yields  abundantly.  There 
are  great  extents  of  land,  favorable  for  the  cultivation  of  the  upland  rice; 
and  no  limits  can  be  assigned  to  the  amount,  that  might  be  raised;  but 
the  grand  staples  being  more  profitable,  little  more  is  raised,  than  for 
home  consumption,  in  a country,  where  an  immense  extent  of  swamps 
might  be  profitably  devoted  to  that  article.  The  land  brings  tobacco  of 
the  finest  quality.  That,  which  is  cultivated  in  the  vicinity  of  Natebito- 


240 


LOUISIANA® 


ches,  is  said  to  equal  that  of  Cuba.  But  the  culture  is  not  deemed  so 
profitable,  as  that  of  the  great  staples. 

The  cotton,  cultivated  here,  is  an  annual  plant,  growing  in  the  rich 
lands  more  than  six  feet  high,  and  the  larger  stalks  of  the  size  sf  a man’s 
arm,  throwing  out  a number  of  branches,  on  which  form  large  and  beau- 
tiful whitish  yellow  blossoms.  A cotton  field  in  flower  is  a most  gaudy 
and  brilliant  spectacle.  On  the  cups  of  the  flower  form  balls,  or  coccoons, 
or  as  they  are  here  called  forms,  in  which  grow  three  or  four  elliptical 
seeds,  four  times  as  large  as  a wheat  kernel,  and  of  an  oily  consistency. 
The  cotton  is  the  down,  with  which  oily  seeds  are  generally  enveloped 
in  the  conservative  provision  of  nature.  The  planting  is  from  March 
to  the  middle  of  May,  in  drill  rows,  six  feet  apart.  Much  more  is 
planted,  than  is  expected  to  stand.  It  is  thinned  carefully,  and  ploughs 
in  the  form  of  scrapers,  are  used  to  clean  out  the  weeds.  In  September 
the  process  of  picking  commences;  and  is  renewed  two  or  three  times,  as 
successive  stages  of  forms  ripen.  The  weather  admits  of  this  operation 
with  comfort  to  the  hands,  until  the  season  calls  for  the  clearing,  and 
burning  the  old  stocks,  in  order  to  commence  ploughing  for  a new  crop. 
This  is  one  of  the  advantages,  that  it  is  crop,  which  furnishes  employment 
for  the  hands,  during  every  period  of  the  year.  The  cotton  in  the  seed 
undergoes  an  operation,  called  ginning,  by  which  the  down  is  detached 
from  the  seeds,  and  blown  away,  while  the  seeds  fall  by  their  own  weight. 
It  is  then  packed  in  bales,  which  are  pressed  and  ready  for  exportation. 

The  kinds  of  cotton  cultivated  are  Louisiana,  green  seed,  or  Tennes 
see,  and  recently  Mexican  cottpn.  The  green  seed  is  not  of  so  fine  a 
staple,  but  is  less  subject  to  the  destructive  malady,  called  the  rot.  The 
Mexican  is  both  of  a finer  staple,  yields  more,  abundantly,  and  has  not 
hitherto  suffered  Bom  rot.  It  is  getting  into  common  adoption,  and  the 
importation  of  seed  from  Tampico  and  Vera  Cruz  is  becoming  a consid- 
erable business.  Sea  island  cotton  grows  well  on  grounds,  that  have  been 
exhausted  by  the  continued  cultivation  of  the  other  kinds.  All  the  spe- 
cies exhaust  the  soil ; and  the  seeds,  which  accumulate  in  prodigious 
quantities  around  the  gins,  furnish  an  admirable  manure  for  the  exhausted 
soil.  The  rot  is  a disease,  from  which  the  balls,  that  begin  to  form  after 
flowering,  moulder  and  fall.  No  series  of  properly  conducted  experL 
ments  has  been  made,  to  ascertain  the  causes,  or  to  furnish  a remedy 
against  this  disease.  The  causes  are  inexplicable  from  any  thing  yet 
known  upon  the  subject.  In  some  seasons  it  is  much  severer  than  others. 
New  lands  are  less  subject  to  it  than  old;  and  hitherto  the  Mexican  least 
of  all  the  species. 

Sugar  cane  is  a very  rich  and  abundant  article  of  the  growth  of  Louis- 
ana,  raised  chiefly  on  the  coast,  the  shore  of  the  gulf,  the  bayous,  Teches 


LOUISIANA. 


241 


Lafourche,  and  Plaquemine,  and  some  parts  of  Attakapas,  south  of  31°. 
It  is  propagated  by  laying  cuttings  or  slips  of  the  cane,  horizontally  in 
furrows  in  the  latter  part  of  February.  The  shoots  start  from  eyes  of 
the  joints  of  the  slip.  When  grown,  it  resembles  the  rankest  broom  corn* 
or  perhaps  more  nearly  Egyptian  millet.  At  maturity  it  resembles,  ex- 
cept the  spikes  or  tassels,  that  species  of  maize,  called  at  the  north,  Caro-* 
lina  corn.  When  it  is  cut  for  the  mill,  or  expressing  the  saccharine  sap* 
they  cut  off  something  more  than  a foot  from  the  top  for  slips  for  plant- 
ing. The  rows  in  the  rich  lands  are  planted  six  foot  apart.  It  requires 
the  richest  soil,  the  vegetable  mould  of  which  should  be  at  least  a foot  deep. 
There  are  three  or  four  varieties,  or  species,  as  the  African,  the  Otaheite 
the  West  Indian,  and  the  Ribband  cane.  The  Otaheite  grows  luxuriantly* 
and  ripens  considerably  earlier  than  the  West  Indian;  but  is  said  to  con- 
tain saccharine  matter,  in  comparison  with  the  other,  only  as  two  to  three. 
The  Ribband  cane  is  a new  and  beautiful  species,  so  called  from  perpen- 
dicular and  parallel  stripes,  that  have  on  the  stalk  the  appearance  of  rib- 
bands. We  have  seen  it  of  uncommon  size  and  weight,  and  it  is  said 
to  be  highly  charged  with  saccharine  juice.  Its  grand  advantage  over  the 
other  kinds  is,  that  it  does  not  require  so  long  a season  for  ripening,  as 
either  of  the  other  kinds,  by  some  weeks.  It  can,  probably,  be  raised  two 
degrees  farther  north,  than  any  other  kind,  yet  attempted,  and  after  it 
is  cut,  it  does  not  become  spoiled  from  acidity  as  soon  as  the  other  spe- 
cies. They  are  making  trials  of  this  cane  in  Opelousas,  on  Red  river, 
and  about  Natchez.  It  is  not  unlikely,  that  it  will  naturalize  to  the  cli- 
mate, considerably  north  even  of  those  points.  Cane  is  understood  to  be 
productive  in  China,  where  the  frost  is  much  more  severe,  than  in  any 
places,  where  it  has  been  attempted  in  this  country.  When  the  habits  of 
plants,  in  undergoing  the  process  of  acclimation,  are  better  understood, 
it  may  be,  that  this  rich  species  of  cultivation  will  be  extended  to  points, 
where  it  has  not  yet  been  even  in  contemplation.  The  disadvantage  of 
the  Ribband  cane  is  that  it  has  a harder  rind,  or  bark,  than  the  other 
kinds,  and  will  require  rollers  for  grinding  it  driven  by  steam  power. 

The  sugar  cane  is  a very  hardy  plant,  not  liable  to  the  diseases  either 
of  indigo,  or  cotton.  It  is  cultivated  much  in  the  same  way  with  maize. 
It  ripens,  according  to  the  season,  it  experiences.  Rains  retard,  and 
drought  accellerates  its  maturity.  The  abundance  of  the  crop  depends 
upon  the  number  of  the  joints  that  ripen,  before  the  frost,  so  as  to  have 
the  proper  saccharine  juice  to  granulate  the  sugar.  A slight  frost  favors 
that  fermentation,  which  is  necessary  to  the  formation  of  sugar  from  the 
sap.  A severe  frost  at  once  destroys  the  vegetation  of  the  cane.  The 
cane  lies  a short  time,  after  it  is  cut,  to  favor  this  fermentation.  It  is 
then  passed  between  two  iron  cylinders,  by  which  the  cane  is  crushed, 

31 


242 


LOUISIANA. 


and  the  sap  is  forced  out  by  expression.  It  flows  into  boilers,  and  the 
process  is  simply  that  of  evaporation  by  boiling.  The  crop,  while  in 
growth,  has  great  beauty  of  appearance.  The  sap  is  so  rich  in  the  stalk 
of  the  cane,  as  to  have  almost  the  gummy  consistence  of  syrup,  and  sugar 
exists  there  as  nearly  in  a concrete  state,  as  it  can  be  in  solution.  An 
acre  properly  tended  will  yield  a hogshead  of  1,200  pounds  fora  common 
crop. 

It  was  formerly  a question  in  this  state,  which  was  the  most  profitable 
crop,  this,  or  cotton  ? From  accurate  tables,  giving  the  number  of  hands, 
the  amount  of  expenditures,  and  the  average  value  of  product  from  each, 
from  a number  of  years  in  succession,  it  appears,  that  sugar  was  the  most 
productive  crop,  even  when  cotton  bore  a much  better  price  than  at  pres- 
ent. The  cultivation  of  the  cane  is  diminishing  in  the  islands.  That  of 
cotton  seems  to  be  every  where  increasing.  There  is  a vast  amount  of 
sugar  lands,  not’  brought  into  cultivation.  We  do  not  as  yet  grow  by 
any  means  enough  for  our  own  consumption.  There  seems  to  be  every 
inducement  then,  to  extend  this  cultivation  in  Louisiana,  and  it  is  an 
omen  for  good,  that  the  planters  over  all  the  state  are  turning  their  at- 
tention to  this  species  of  culture. 

No  cultivation  in  our  country  yields  so  rich  a harvest. — But  the  work 
is  admitted  to  be  severe  for  the  hands,  requiring,  after  it  is  commenced,  to 
be  pushed  night  and  day.  It  is  deemed  a more  severe  and  wearing  task 
to  work  this  crop,  than  that  of  cotton.  It  has  been  a general  impression 
even  in  this  state,  where  the  true  state  of  the  case  ought  to  be  understood, 
that  sugar  could  not  be  made  to  profit,  unless  the  planter  had  a large  force 
and  capital,  and  could  rear  expensive  houses  and  machinery.  This  im- 
pression has  hitherto  deterred  small  planters  from  attempting  to  cultivate 
the  cane.  But  it  has  been  found  by  experience,  that  sugar  can  be  made 
to  profit  with  as  small  a capital,  as  is  required  for  commencing  a cotton 
plantation. 

Louisiana  produces  an  average  crop  annually  of  more  than  100,000 
hogsheads  of  sugar,  and  five  million  gallons  of  molasses.  Whatever  gen- 
eral views  may  be  taken  of  the  tariff,  it  cannot  but  be  admitted  on  all 
hands,  that  the  grand  result  of  this  cultivation  is  owing  to  the  protecting 
duty  on  sugar;  and  that  this  individual  branch  of  agriculture  has  become 
in  some  measure  identified  with  the  prosperity  of  the  union  in  general 
and  the  West  in  particular. 

Such  is  a sketch  of  the  agriculture  of  Louisiana.  It  is  the  most  pro- 
ductive, according  to  the  number  of  hands  employed,  and  acres  worked,  in 
the  United  States.  No  country,  perhaps,  Cuba  excepted,  with  the  same 
population,  exports  of  its  own  growth,  articles  of  more  value  than 
Louisiana. 


LOUISIANA. 


24 3 


Slaves.  As  this  states  contains  a greater  number  of  slaves,  in  propor- 
tion to  its  population,  than  any  other  in  the  western  country,  we  shall 
bring  into  one  compass  all  the  general  remarks,  which  we  shall  make, 
upon  the  aspect  and  character  of  slavery  in  the  Mississippi  valley.  It  will 
be  seen,  from  the  table  of  population,  that  considerably  more  than  one 
half  of  the  whole  population  of  this  state  are  slaves.  Formerly  they  did 
not  increase  in  this  state,  and  required  importations  from  abroad,  to  keep 
up  the  number.  But,  since  experience  and  humanity  have  dictated  more 
rational  and  humane  modes  of  managing  the  sick  and  the  children,  by  car- 
rying them  during  the  sickly  months,  to  the  same  places  of  healthy  re- 
tirement, to  which  their  masters  retire,  they  are  found  to  increase  as 
rapidly  here,  as  they  do  elsewhere.  It  is  well  known,  that  under  favorable 
circumstances,  they  are  more  prolific  than  the  whites.  Reflecting  minds 
cannot  but  view  with  apprehension  the  remote  consequences  of  this  order 
of  things^ 

It  is  not  among  the  objects  of  this  work  to  discuss  the  moral  character 
of  slavery,  or  to  contemplate  the  subject  in  any  of  its  abstract  bearings. 
We  can  pronounce,  from  what  we  consider  a thorough  knowledge  of  the 
subject,  that  the  condition  of  the  slaves  here,  the  treatment,  which  they 
receive,  and  the  character  of  their  masters  have  been  much  misrepresent- 
ed in  the  non-slave-holding  states.  . We  pretend  to  none,  but  historical 
knowledge  of  the  state  of  things,  which  has  existed  here  in  past  time. 
At  present  we  are  persuaded,  there  are  but  few  of  those  brutal  and  cruel 
masters,  which  the  greatest  portion  of  the  planters  were  formerly  suppos- 
ed to  be.  The  masters  now  study  popularity  with  their  slaves.  If  there 
must  be  the  odium  of  severity,  it  is  thrown  upon  the  overseer,  who  becomes 
a kind  of  scape  goat  to  bear  away  the  offences  of  the  master.  There  is 
now  no  part  of  the  slave-holding  country  in  the  south-west,  where  it  would 
not  be  a deep  stain  upon  the  moral  character  to  be  generally  reputed  a 
cruel  master.  In  many  plantations  no  punishment  is  inflicted  except 
after  a trial  by  a jury,  composed  of  the  fellow  servants  of  the  party  accus- 
ed. Festival  prizes  and  rewards  are  instituted,  as  stimulants  to  exertion, 
and  compensations  for  superior  accomplishments  of  labor.  They  are  gen- 
erally well  fed,  and  clothed,  and  that  not  by  an  arbitrary  award,  which 
might  vary  with  the  feelings  of  the  master;  but  by  periodical  apportion- 
ment like  the  distributed  rations  of  soldiers,  of  what  has  been  experimented 
to  be  sufficient  to  render  them  comfortable.  Considerable  attention  is 
paid  to  their  quarters,  and  most  of  them  comfortably  lodged  and  housed. 

Nor  are  they  destitute,  as  has  been  supposed,  of  any  legal  protection, 
coming  between  them  and  the  'cupidity  and  cruelty  of  their  masters. — 
The  ‘ code  noir’  of  Louisiana  is  a curious  collection  of  statutes,  drawn 
partly  from  French  and  Spanish  law  and  usage,  and  partly  from  the  cus» 


244 


LOUISIANA. 


toms  of  the  islands,  and  usages,  which  have  grown  out  of  the  peculiar 
circumstances  of  Louisiana,  while  a colony.  It  has  the  aspect,  it  must 
be  admitted,  of  being  formed  rather  for  the  advantage  of  the  master, 
than  the  servant,  for  it  prescribes  an  unlimited  homage  and  obedience  to 
the  former.  It  makes  a misdemeanor  on  his  part  towards  his  master  a 
very  different  offence,  from  a wanton  abuse  of  power  towards  the  servant. 
But  at  the  same  time,  it  defines  crimes,  that  the  master  can  commit,  in 
relation  to  the  slave,  and  prescribes  the  mode  of  trial,  and  the  kind  and 
degree  of  punishment.  It  constitutes  unnecessary  correction,  maiming, 
and  murder,  punishable  offences  in  a master.  It  is  very  minute  in  pre- 
scribing the  number  of  hours,  which  the  master  may  lawfully  exact  to  be 
employed  in  labor,  and  the  number  of  hours,  which  he  must  allow  his 
slave  for  meal  times  and  for  rest.  It  prescribes  the  time  and  extent  of 
his  holidays.  In  short  it  settles  with  minuteness  and  detail  the  whole 
circle  of  relations  between  master  and  slave,  defining  and  prescribing 
what  the  former  may,  and  may  not,  exact  of  the  latter.  Yet  after  all 
these  minute  provisions,  the  slave  finds  the  chief  alleviation  of  his  hard 
condition,  and  his  best  security  against  cruel  treatment,  and  his  most 
valid  bond  for  kind  and  proper  deportment  towards  ljim,  in  the  increasing 
light,  humanity  and  force  of  public  opinion. 

That  the  slave  is,  also,  in  the  general  circumstances  of  his  condition, 
as  happy  as  this  relation  will  admit  of  his  being,  is  an  unquestionable 
fact.  That  he  seldom  performs  as  much  labor,  or  performs  it  as  well,  as 
a free  man,  proves  all  in  regard  to  the  value  of  those  motives,  which  free- 
dom only  can  supply,  which  can  be  desired.  In  all  the  better  managed 
plantations,  the  mode  of  building  the  quarters  is  fixed.  The  arrange- 
ment of  the  little  village  has  a fashion,  by  which  it  is  settled.  Interest, 
if  not  humanity,  [has  defined  the  amount  of  food  and  rest,  necessary  for 
their  health ; and  there  is  in  a large  and  respectable  plantation  as  much 
precision  in  the  rules,  as  much  exactness  in  the  times  of  going  to  sleep, 
awakening,  going  to  labor,  and  resting  before  and  after  meals,  as  in  a 
garrison  under  military  discipline,  or  in  a ship  of  war.  A bell  gives  all 
the  signals.  Every  slave  at  the  assigned  hour  in  the  morning,  is  forth 
coming  to  his  labor,  or  his  case  is  reported,  either  as  one  of  idleness, 
obstinacy,  or  sickness,  in  which  case  he  is  sent  to  the  hospital,  and  there 
he  is  attended  by  a physician,  who  for  the  most  part,  has  a yearly  salary 
for  attending  to  all  the  sick  of  the  plantation.  The  union  of  physical 
force,  directed  by  one  will,  is  now  well  understood  to  have  a much  greater 
effect  upon  the  amount  of  labor,  which  a number  of  hands,  so  managed, 
can  bring  about,  than  the  same  force  directed  by  as  many  wills  as  there 
are  hands.  Hence  it  happens,  that  while  one  free  man,  circumstances 
being  the  same,  will  perform  more  labor  than  one  slave,  one  hundred 


LOUISIANA. 


245 


slaves  will  accomplish  more  on  one  plantation,  than  so  many  hired  free 
men,  acting  at  their  own  discretion.  Hence,  too,  it  is,  that  such  a prodi- 
gious quantity  of  cotton  and  sugar  is  made  here,  in  proportion  to  the 
number  of  laboring  hands.  All  the  process  of  agriculture  are  managed 
by  system.  Every  thing  goes  straight  forward.  There  is  no  pulling  down 
to-day  the  scheme  of  yesterday,  and  the  whole  amount  of  force  is  directed 
by  the  teaching  of  experience  to  the  best  result. 

If  we  could  lay  out  of  the  question,  the  intrinsic  evils  of  the  case,  that 
would  be  a cheering  sight,  which  is  presented  by  a large  Louisiana  plan- 
tation. The  fields  are  as  level,  and  as  regular  in  their  figures,  as  gardens. 
They  sometimes  contain  3 or  400  acres  in  one  enclosure;  and  we  have 
seen  from  a dozen  to  twenty  ploughs  all  making  their  straight  furrows 
through  a field,  a mile  in  depth,  with  a regularity,,  which,  it  would  be 
supposed,  could  only  be  obtained  by  a line.  The  plough  is  generally 
worked  Dy  a single  mule,  and  guided  by  a singe  hand,  who  cheers  the  long 
course  of  his  furrow  with  a song. 

Rivers.  East  of  the  Mississippi  fall  into  that  river  Bayou  Sarah,  and 
one  or  two  other  small  streams.  Into  the  efflux,  or  Bayou  Manshac,  or 
Ibberville,  as  it  passes  from  the  Mississippi  to  Lake  Maurepas,  fall  the 
Amite,  and  some  other  inconsiderable  streams.  The  Ticfah  fall  into 
Lake  Maurepas.  The  Tangipao  falls  into  Lake  Ponchartrain,  as  do 
Chiffuncte  and  Bonfouca.  Pearl  river  divides  between  this  state  and 
Mississippi,  and  falls  into  the  rigolets,  near  Pearlington.  None  of  them 
except  Pearl  River,  which  has  been  already  described,  have  courses  of 
more  than  70  or  80  miles,  and  they  are  navigable  by  schooners  to  a con- 
siderable distance  from  the  lake.  They  rise  in  the  state  of  Mississippi. 
Chiffuncte  affords  the  best  harbor  on  the  lake. 

The  effluxes  on  the  west  side  of  the  river,  in  ascending,  are,  first,  the 
Bayou  Lafourche;  next  Plaquemine;  and  the  last  Atchafalaya,  or  as  it 
is  universally  pronounced  Chaffalio.  Lafourche  breaks  out  from  the 
Mississippi  at  Donaldsonville,  90  miles  above  New  Orleans,  and  taking  a 
south-east  course,  finds  its  separate  channel  to  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  about 
50  miles  west  of  the  Balize.  The  Plaquemine,  still  further  up,  carries 
out  at  times  a great  and  sweeping  body  of  water  from  the  Mississippi. 
After  running  some  distance  through  a very  rich  tract  of  country,  it 
unites  with  the  Atchafalaya  in  one  broad  stream,  which,  before  it  passes 
into  the  gulf,  receives  the  Teche,  a stream  which  passes  through  the 
fertile  plains  of  Opelousas  and  Attakapas. 

The  Mississippi  pursues  a very  direct  course  through  this  state  to  the 
sea.  It  recently  cut  itself  a passage  across  the  point  of  the  bend  opposite 
the  mouth  of  Red  River,  thereby  diminishing  the  distance  between 
Natchez  and  New  Orleans  30  miles.  The  same  thing  must  shortly  occur 


246 


LOUISIANA. 


at  Tunica  Bend,  both  of  which  will  reduce  the  water  distance  between 
these  towns  from  300  to  200  miles.  By  another  ‘cut  off  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  Chickasaw  Bluffs,  the  distance  has  been  shortened  between  Natchez 
and  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  In  this  way,  nature  and  human  effort  com- 
bining, this  noble  river  in  no  great  length  of  time,  will  be  made  to  flow 
in  a right  line,  or  reach,  as  the  Mississippi  phrase  is,  to  the  gulf. 

At  a very  little  distance  below  the  mouth  of  Red  River,  the  Atchafa-. 
laya  breaks  out  from  the  west  bank  with  an  outlet,  apparently  of  the 
same  width  with  Red  River,  and  it  is  supposed,  carrying  off  from  the 
Mississippi  as  much  water,  as  Red  River  brings  in.  It  has  such  a position 
to  the  bend  of  the  Mississippi,  as  that  immense  masses  of  drift  wood  and 
timber,  passing  down  that  river,  are  swept  into  this  outlet.  This  accum- 
ulating mass  soon  meets  with  obstructions,  and  is  jammed  together  into 
a raft,  which  rises  and  falls  with  the  rising  and  falling  of  the  Bayou.  A 
considerable  vegetation  of  shrubs  and  flowering  plants  has  been  formed  on 
the  surface  of  this  floating  timber;  and  a man  might  pass  directly  over 
this  vast  mass  of  waters,  without  knowing  when  he  was  crossing  it.  The 
raft  is  eight  or  ten  miles  in  extent,  and  is  supposed  to  contain  a mass  of 
more  than  two  million  cords  of  wood  and  timber.  The  medial  width  of 
the  Bayou  is  little  more  than  200  yards.  It  has  a winding  course, 
traverses  many  points  of  the  compass,  and  receives  the  water  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi overflow  at  a different  place  in  its  course.  Its  length,  before  it 
falls  into  the  gulf,  measuring  its  meanders,  is  nearly  200  miles,  and  its 
comparative  course  130. 

The  Teche  commences  in  Opelousas,  receiving  a great  number  of 
streams,  that  rise  in  the  prairies.  It  winds  through  Opelousas  and  Atta- 
kapas,  and  meets  the  tide  at  New  Iberia,  to  which  point  it  is  navigable, 
the  Teche  having  8 feet  on  its  bar,  and  20  feet  within.  It  flows  about 
45  miles  further,  before  it  is  lost  in  the  Atchafalaya,  which  it  enters  by  a 
mouth  200  yards  wide.  It  has  a course,  computing  its  meanderings,  of 
180  or  190  miles. 

West  of  the  Teche,  are  the  Vermillion,  Courtableau,  Calcasiu,  and 
Sabine,  streams  of  considerable  importance,  beside  a very  great  number 
of  smaller  streams,  which  rise,  except  the  Sabine,  in  the  woods  on  the 
south-western  parts  of  the  state,  and  thence  emerge  into  the  prairies,  and 
unite  either  with  the  streams  above  named,  or  fall  into  the  lakes,  which 
skirt  all  this  front  of  the  state.  Indeed,  the  whole  boundary  of  Opelousas 
and  Attakapas  on  the  gulf,  is  a chain  of  lakes,  some  larger,  and  some 
smaller,  and  almost  innumerable.  The  margin  of  the  sea  shore,  for  some 
distance  back  into  the  country,  is  a dead  level,  and  below  the  tides,  which 
are  created  by  a strong  south  wind,  in  which  case  the  sea  throws  its  waters 
oyer  great  extents  of  these  marshy  plains.  When  the  rivers  reach  the 


i 


LOUISIANA. 


247 


lakes  and  the  vicinity  of  the  gulf,  they  communicate  with  the  lakes  by 
many  mouths,  and  by  each  other  with  numberless  lateral  communications; 
so  that  the  connections  of  the  lakes  and  the  streams  form  an  immense  tis- 
sue of  net  work,  and  the  numbers  of  hoatable  communications  are  only 
known  to  the  inhabitants  in  their  vicinity,  who  have  been  long,  and  inti- 
mately acquainted  with  the  country, 

We  may  remark  in  passing,  that  the  soil  on  the  Atchafalaya  is  red  like 
that  of  Red  River.  From  the  width  of  the  Bayou,  and  its  vicinity,  we  in- 
fer, that  it  was  once  the  channel  of  Red  River,  by  which  that  river 
pursued  its  own  independent  course  to  the  gulf#  without  mingling  its 
waters  with  those  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  soil  on  the  banks  of  the  Teche  is  red,  and  shows,  also,  that  it 
once  had  some  connection  with  Red  River.  Its  alluvions  have  many 
points  of  resemblance  to  those  of  that  river.  Like  them,  these  also,  are 
of  exhaustless  - fertily.  They  are  settled,  in  their  whole  extent,  until 
they  become  so  low  as  to  be  subject  to  inundation.  Except  the  coast 
above  New  Orleans,  it  presents  the  largest  and  compactest  settlement  in 
the  state.  It  is  remarked  of  this  stream,  that  it  presents  manifest  indica- 
tions of  having  once  been  the  channel  of  a much  greater  volume  of 
water,  than  it  carries  at  present.  The  channel  grows  broader  and  deeper 
beyond  the  Fusilier,  for  an  hundred  miles.  At  the  former  place  it  is  50 
yards  wride,  and  at  low  water  three  feet  deep.  When  it  enters  the  Atcha- 
falaya, its  channel  is  100  yards  wide,  and  it  has  twenty  feet  water. 
Between  the  two  points  it  has  received  no  water  to  account  for  this  en- 
largement. 

Bayou  Boeuf  and  Cocodri,  rising  near  Red  River  in  the  Pine  Hills, 
wind  through  a very  fertile  alluvion,  and  unite  in  Opelousas,  to  form  the 
Courtablean,  which  waters  the  richest  part  of  Opelousas.  Vermillion, 
Mermentau,  and  Courtableau  all  rise  near  each  other,  in  level  table  lands 
near  the  centre  of  Opelousas.  Each  of  them  have  valuable  lands  lying 
on  their  banks. 

We  can  do  no  more,  in  conformity  with  our  limits,  than  give  some  of 
the  names  of  the  more  conspicuous  bayous,  that  go  to  form  those  which 
we  have  mentioned,  and  which  wind  in  different  directions  through  the 
vast  prairies,  between  the  Atchafalaya  and  the  Sabine.  In  this  distance 
we  cross  the  Derbane,  Waushka,  Tensa,  Fusilier,  Carrion,  Cocodri  Bayou 
Cane,  Bayou  Mellet,  Petit  Anse,  Bayou  Sale,  Bayou  Nezpique,  Plaque- 
mine,  Brule,  Queue  Tortue,  Bayou  Chicot,  Bayou  Grand  Louis,  Lacasine, 
Carrion  Crow,  and  a great  number  of  streams  of  less  importance,  that  are 
properly  streams  of  the  prairies. 

Below  the  open  prairies,  there  are  a number  of  Bayous,  that  belong  to 
the  Atchafalaya,  and  the  Plaquemine;  such  as  the  Gros  Tete,  Bayon 


248 


LOUISIANA. 


Maringouin,  Bayou  Mansir,  an  efflux  from  the  Mississippi,  Grand  and 
Petit  Caillou,  Bayou  Peau  de  Chevruill,  Bayou  Large,  and  many  others. 

Near  a singular  hill  between  Opelousas  and  Avoyelles  rise  the  Bayous 
Rouge  and  Petite  Prairie.  They  run  through  a rich  soil,  and  an  im- 
mensely deep  and  heavy  forest.  Bayou  Rouge  is  a circular  hill,  rising 
from  a great  extent  of  adjacent  level  and  swampy  lands,  and  which,  but 
for  its  extent  might  be  taken  for  an  Indian  mound.  The  small  and 
wretched  remains  of  the  Tunica  tribe  of  Indians  reside  here.  This  tribe 
at  a distant  period,  was  desolated  by  a massacre,  perpetrated  on  them  by 
the  Natchez  Indians.  Here,  intermediate  between  Red  River  and  the 
gulf,  and  isolated  from  savage  and  social  man,  intercourse  with  whom 
has  been  alike  ruinous  to  them,  by  inundated  swamps  and  deep  and 
pathless  forests,  they  dwell  in  solitude. 

Before  we  proceed  to  describe  the  two  great  rivers  of  Louisiana,  Red 
River  and  the  Washita,  whose  tracts  lead  us  into  the  interior,  we  propose 
to  name  the  principal  lakes  of  Louisiana,  as  the  larger  of  them  either 
communicates  directly  with  the  gulf,  or  lie  in  its  vicinity.  Lake  Maure- 
pas,  Ponchartrain,  and  Borgne  form  an  extended  chain  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. Lake  Maurepas  is  of  a circular  form,  and  is  comparatively  small. 
It  communicates  with  lake  Ponchartrain  by  a harrow  pass.  Lake  Pon 
chartrain  is  40  miles  long  and  28  wide.  It  communicates  by  two  narrow 
passes,  called  rigolets,  with  lake  Borgne,  which  is  35  miles  long  and  12 
wide.  These  lakes,  though  navigated  by  a great  number  of  small  vessels, 
principally  schooners,  are  shallow,  except  in  a channel  through  their 
centre.  Lake  Borgne  has  seldom  more  than  six  feet  water,  except  in 
this  channel.  When  the  wind  rises,  these  shallow  lakes  are  subject  to 
what  is  called  a ground  swell,  and  their  navigation  is  dangerous. 

The  lakes  west  of  the  Mississippi,  along  the  shores  of  the  gulf,  and 
between  Red  River  and  Washita,  are  too  numerous  for  us  to  enumerate. 
A complete  catalogue,  embracing  them  all,  large  and  small,  would 
swell  the  number  to  hundreds.  The  chief  of  them  are  Barataria,  Attaka- 
pas,  Prune,  Salt  Water,  Green,  Grand,  Mermentau,  Calcasiu,  and  Sabine 
on  the  gulf,  and  Long,  Catahoola,  latt,  Saline,  Natchitoches,  Spanish, 
Black,  Bistineau,  Bodau,  Pisquota,  and  many  sfnaller  ones  between 
Washita  and  Red  River,  and  Red  River  and  the  Sabine,*  and  Concordia, 
Homochitto,  and  Providence  lakes  belonging  to  the  Mississippi.  West 
of  that  river  are  also  the  smaller  lakes,  Chittimaches,  Natchez,  Des  Islets, 
Levy,  Little  Lake,  Palourd,  Quacha,  Ronde,  St.John,  and  St.  Joseph. 
Some  of  these  lakes  are  many  miles  in  extent,  and  others  are  little  larger 
than  the  collection  of  water,  called  ponds  at  the  norih. 

That  some  of  them  are  of  recent  origin  is  proved  by  the  fact,  that  in 
the  midst  of  them  are  vast  extents  of  water,  out  of  which  rise  thousands 


LOUISIANA. 


249 


of  deep  cypress  trees,  still  standing  erect,  where  boats  pass,  and  fish  are 
taken  in  the  driest  seasons.  As  you  approach  these  lakes,  which  abound 
in  fish,  through  the  deep  forests,  which  skirt  them,  you  are  warned  of 
your  approach  to  them  by  observing  the  trees  shrouded  in  a deeper  drapery 
of  long  moss.  They  have  generally  on  their  shores  a skirt  of  rich  soil, 
resembling  an  alluvion. 

Sabine.  This  river  rises  in  Texas,  in  latitude  32°  30'  and  flows  south* 
wardly,  entering  this  state  at  its  south-west  angle,  in  the  parish  of  Natch- 
itoches. Thence  it  forms  the  dividing  line  between  Louisiana  and  the 
states  of  Mexico.  It  has  a course  of  400  miles;  and  in  high  stages  of 
its  waters,  when  the  obstructions  of  small  timber  rafts  are  cleared  out  of 
it,  is  susceptible  of  good  steam  boat  navigation,  as  high  as  the  great 
crossing  on  the  road  from  Natchitoches  to  the  Spanish  country.  In  low 
stages  of  water  it  has  but  four  feet  water  over  the  bar  at  its  mouth.— 
Like  the  other  rivers  of  this  state,  it  broadens  into  a wide  lake  before  it 
enters  the  gulf.  It  enters  it  through  a vast  and  solitary  prairie  of  un- 
common sterility,  uncheered  by  the  distant  view  of  vessels,  or  any 
traces  of  social  existence.  A few  wandering  savages  are  sometimes 
seen  diminished  to  moving  atoms.  The  wild  deer  browses  unmolested ; 
and  the  sea  fowds  scream  unterrified  by  the  report  of  the  gun.  The 
prairie  is  as  illimitable  by  the  eye,  as  the  ocean,  on  which  it  borders.— 
Its  wide  alluvion  contains  lands  only  of  second  rate  quality.  It  waters 
the  most  hilly  parts  of  the  state.  Among  those  hills  there  are  frequent 
streams,  some  lakes  and  ponds,  and  oftentimes  small  strips  of  good 
second  rate  land.  This  stream  derives  its  chief  consequence  from  its 
position,  as  the  line  of  separation  between  the  United  States  and  Mexico. 

Washita.  This  large  river  rises  in  the  Masserne  mountains,  in  the 
Territory  of  Arkansas,  in  latitude  34°.  North  Fork,  Washita  Fork,  and 
South  Fork  unite  to  form  the  main  river,  which,  after  flowing  something 
more  than  100  miles,  receives  from  the  north,  Hot  Spring  Fork.  Eight 
leagues  below,  it  receives  the  Cado,  and  the  same  distance  lower  down, 
the  Little  Missouri.  The  Saline  rises  at  no  great  distance  from  the  Hot 
Springs,  and  after  a winding  course  of  150  miles,  flows  into  the  Washita 
just  above  the  limits  of  this  state.  The  Bayou  Barthelemy  rises  ten 
leagues  south  of  the  Sabine,  and  joins  the  Washita  a league  above  Fort 
Miro.  The  Chaudron  comes  in  from  the  south,  and  the  Boeuf  and  the 
Macon  having  its  head  wraters  in  Providence  lake,  from  the  north.  The 
latter,  with  some  small  streams  united  to  it,  forms  the  Tensa.  On  the 
other  side  comes  in  Catahoola,  or  Little  River.  Of  this  river,  the 
Dugdemony  is  a principal  branch.  Little  River,  in  its  course,  passes 
through  Catahoola  lake,  and  uniting  with  the  Tensa  in  a deep  swampy 

32 


250 


LOUISIANA. 


forest,  forms  Black  River,  which,  soon  after  the  junction,  mixes  its  waters 
with  Red  River. 

The  soil  of  the  alluvions  of  Washita*  in  its  lower  courses,  is  black, 
and  extremely  fertile.  Its  upper  waters  run  through  a mountainous  region, 
the  description  of  which  naturally  falls  under  the  head  of  Arkansas 
Territory.  The  lower  waters  of  this  river  rise  in  the  Pine  Hills,  and 
have  on  their  banks  second  rate  land,  until  a short  distance  from  their 
union  with  the  main  river,  when  the  soil  becomes  of  the  same  quality 
with  that  of  the  main  river.  On  the  alluvions  and  bayous  are  already  a 
great  number  of  fine  cotton  plantations;  and  there  is  an  extent  of  rich, 
unoccupied  cotton  lands  for  a much  greater  number  still.  The  natural 
productions  of  this  river,  and  its  waters  in  this  state,  are  considered  no 
way  inferior  to  those  of  the  best  parts  of  the  Mississippi,  and  are  the 
same,  with  the  exception  of  the  sugar  cane,  which  is  not  known  to  have 
been  attempted  on  its  waters. 

Red  River.  This  is  one  of  the  most  considerable  tributaries  of  the 
Mississippi.  Its  width  of  channel,  in  its  lower  courses,  does  by  no  means 
correspond  to  its  length  of  course,  or  the  immense  mass  of  waters,  which 
it  rolls  to  its  parent  stream.  But  in  high  waters,  when  it  has  arrived 
within  3 or  400  miles  of  that  river,  it  is  often  divided  into  two  or  three 
parallel  channels,  and  a line  of  bayous  and  lakes  connected  with  it,  takes 
up  its  superabundant  waters,  and  they  are  a considerable  time  in  filling; 
and  prevent  the  river  from  displaying  its  breadth  and  amount  of  waters,  as  it 
does  in  the  high  lands  500  miles  above,  where  the  whole  river  flows  through 
high  lands  in  one  broad  stream.  It  takes  its  rise  in  a chain  of  hills  near 
Santa  Fe,  in  New  Mexico,  called,  we  know  not  by  what  authority,  the 
Caous  Mountains.  In  its  upper  courses  it  receives  Blue  River,  and 
False  Washita.  It  winds  through  a region  of  prairies,  on  which  feed 
droves  of  buffaloes,  cattle,  and  wild  horses.  In  these  regions  it  receives  a 
great  many  considerable  tributaries,  the  names  of  which  have  not  yet 
been  given.  Between  the  Pawnee  and  the  state  of  Louisiana  it  receives 
Kimichie,  Yasseux,  and  Little  River,  from  the  north.  From  the  south 
enter  the  Bois  d’Arc,  and  Little  River  of  the  south.  The  Bodcau, 
Dacheet,  Black  Lake,  and  Saline  Rivers  enter  Red  River  after  it  enters 
Louisiana.  There  are  fine  tracts  of  land  on  the  Dacheet  and  Saline. — 
Wells  are  sunk  in  a salt  plain,  near  the  Saline,  from  which  considerable 
quantities  of  sfidt  are  made.  Black  Lake  River  is  a considerable  stream, 
on  the  banks  of  which,  among  the  hills,  are  found  great  varieties  of 
petrifactions  of  every  sort.  Lake  Bistineau  communicates  with  Red 
River.  Petrifactions  abound  on  its  shores,  and  this  remote  and  romantic 
sheet  of  water  has  some  of  the  most  delightful  scenery  on  its  shores. 


LOUISIANA® 


251 


Through  the  greater  amount  of  its  course.  Red  River  winds  through 
immense  prairies  of  a red  soil  covered  with  grass  and  vines,  that  bear 
delicious  grapes.  On  its  banks  is  the  favorite  range  of  the  buffaloe,  and 
other  game,  peculiar  to  the  vast  western  oceans  of  prairies.  About 
thirty  leagues  above  Natchitoches,  commences  the  Raft,  which  is  nothing 
more  than  an  broad  swampy  expansion  of  the  alluvion  of  the  river  to 
the  width  of  20  or  30  miles.  The  river,  spreading  here  into  a vast  number 
of  channels,  frequently  shallow  of  course,  has  been  for  ages  clogging 
with  a compact  mass  of  timber,  and  fallen  trees  wafted  from  the  upper 
regions.  Between  these  masses  the  river  has  a channel,  sometimes  lost 
in  a lake,  and  found  by  following  the  outlet  of  that  lake  back  to  the  parent 
channel.  There  is  no  stage  of  the  water,  in  which  a keel  boat  with  an 
experienced  pilot  may  not  make  its  way  through  the  raft.  We  have  seen 
a considerable  steam  boat,  which  was  built  above  the  raft,  and  floated 
through  it  in  an  unfinished  state.  The  river  is  blocked  up  by  this 
immense  mass  of  timber  for  a length,  on  its  meanders,  of  between  60 
and  70  miles.  There  are  places  where  the  water  can  be  seen  in  motion 
under  the  logs.  In  other  places,  the  whole  width  of  the  river  may  be 
crossed  on  horseback,  and  boats  only  make  their  way,  in  passing  these 
places,  by  following  the  inlet  of  a lake,  and  coasting  it  to  its  outlet,  and 
thus  finding  the  channel  again.  Weeds,  flowering  shrubs,  and  small 
willows  have  taken  root  upon  the  surface  of  this  timber,  and  flourish  above 
the  waters.  But  in  all  these  places  the  courses  of  the  river,  its  outline, 
and  its  bends  are  distinctly  marked  by  a margin  of  forest  trees,  which 
grow  here  on  the  banks  in  the  same  manner,  as  they  do  where  the  channel 
is  open. 

It  is  an  impediment  of  incalculable  injury  to  the  navigation  of  this 
noble  river,  and  the  immense  extent  of  fine  country  above  it.  There  is,, 
probably,  no  part  of  the  United  States  where  the  unoccupied  lands  have 
higher  claims,  from  soil,  climate,  intermixture  of  prairies  and  timbered 
lands,  position,  and  every  inducement  to  population,  than  the  country 
between  the  Raft  and  Kimichie.  This  country  would  be  settled  with 
greater  rapidity,  were  it  not  for  the  obstruction  which  this  raft  opposes  to 
the  navigation  of  the  river.  The  state  has  made  an  effort  to  have  it 
removed.  Accurate  surveys  of  it  have  been  made,  and  the  General 
Government  has  made  an  appropriation  for  this  purpose.  The  river  above 
the  Raft  becomes  broad,  deep,  and  navigable  for  steam  boats  in  moderate 
Stages  of  the  water  1,000  miles  towards  the  mountains. 

Below  the  Raft,  as  we  have  remarked,  the  river  divides  itself  into  many 
channels,  and  fills  such  a number  of  bayous  and  lakes,  that  lie  parallel  to 
the  river,  that  the  bare  enumeration  of  their  names  would  carry  us  beyond 


252 


LOUISIANA. 


our  object.  The  valley  of  this  very  interesting  river  has  a width  of  three 
or  four  miles,  as  high  as  the  Kimichie,  or,  as  it  is  commonly  called 
Kiamesia,  nearly  a thousand  miles  from  its  mouth,  following  its  meanders. 
It  broadens,  as  it  slopes  towards  the  Mississippi,  and  has,  for  a long 
distance  from  its  mouth,  a valley  from  six  to  eighteen  miles  in  width. 
Of  all  the  broad  and  fertile  alluvions  of  the  Mississippi  streams,  no  one 
exceeds  this.  It  compares  in  many  more  points  with  the  famous  Nile, 
than  the  Mississippi,  to  which  that  river  has  so  often  been  likened, — 
Cotton  is  at  present  the  staple  article  of  the  growth  of  its  lower  course. 
Sugar  cane  is  at  this  time  in  an  extensive  scale  of  experiment,  and  will, 
probably,  hereafter  be  raised  in  abundance;  and  the  broad  and  fertile 
plains  of  this  river  as  far  as  Natchitoches,  will  be  converted  into  sugar 
plantations.  The  alluvions  of  Rapide,  Coteille,  Boeuf,  Robert,  Rigolet 
Bon  Dieu,  Aux  Cannes,  and  the  other  waters  of  the  lower  parts  of  the 
river,  in  fact  of  all  its  waters,  as  far  as  32°,  seem  to  be  peculiarly  fitted 
for  this  cultivation.  This  valley  spreads  from  east  to  west,  instead  of  north 
and  south,  like  the  Mississippi,  The  immense  masses  of  cold  water  which 
that  river  brings  down  from  the  northern  regions,  must  sensibly  affect  the 
temperature  of  the  air  on  its  banks.  In  descending  from  Red  River  to 
New  Orleans,  we  have  observed,  that  vegetation  in  the  spring  was  more 
than  a week  in  advance  of  that  on  the  Mississppi,  although  farther  to  the 
south.  We  believe,  that  cane  will  thrive  as  well  on  this  river  in  31°,  as 
it  does  on  the  Mississippi  in  30°,  All  the  chief  streams  of  the  river 
have  the  same  soil  and  character  with  the  main  river.  Indeed  the  lands 
on  Bayou  Rapide,  Robert,  and  Boeuf,  are  supposed  to  be  richer  than 
those  of  the  main  river.  It  is  considered  the  best  land  for  cotton  in  the 
United  States.  It  is  of  a reddish  tinge,  mellow,  friable,  slightly  impreg- 
nated with  salt,  and  brings  forward  in  great  luxuriance  all  the  vegetation, 
that  is  proper  to  its  climate.  Its  indigo  and  tobacco  are  considered  the 
best  in  Louisiana. 

It  is  deemed  unnecessary  to  enumerate  the  trees,  shrubs  and  vines, 
that  are  common  to  the  valley  of  this  river  and  the  Washita.  We  have 
already  included  them  in  our  general  remarks  upon  the  trees  of  the 
western  country.  We  shall  only  remark,  that  the  greater  part,  which 
belong  properly  to  the  northern  and  middle  regions  of  the  country,  are 
also  found  here.  We  except  the  chesnut,  although  the  chincapin,  a species 
of  the  chesnut,  grows  here.  It  wants  the  orange  and  the  live  oak  of  the 
more  southern  parts  of  the  state.  The  laurel  tribe  is  very  abundant,  as 
are  the  oaks  and  hickories.  In  the  eastern  division  of  Opelousas,  forty 
different  species  of  trees  have  been  found  growing  within  the  space  of  a 
few  miles.  The  live  oak  seems  to  indicate, ^that  as  we  advance  west  in  the 


LOUISIANA. 


253 


same  parallel,  the  temperature  diminishes.  In  the  western  parts  of  the 
state  it  retires  to  the  south,  and  is  no  where  found  so  far  north  as  the 
vicinity  of  Mobile. 

Islands,  East  of  the  Mississippi,  and  fronting  this  state,  there  are  a 
number  of  islands,  along  the  shore  of  the  gulf,  the  largest  of  which  is 
called  Chandeleur.  They  are  all  small,  covered  with  pine  and  sand  heaps. 
Some  of  them  are  inhabited,  and  rendered  fertile  by  the  industry  of  their 
owners.  Those  that  lie  off  the  shore  of  Lake  Borgne  are  considered 
uncommonly  healthy  ; and  some  of  the  inhabitants  survive  to  extreme  old 
age.  West  of  the  Mississippi,  the  principal  islands  along  the  gulf  shore 
are  Barataria,  the  noted  resort  of  Lafitte’s  piratical  squadron,  Thomas’, 
La  Croix,  and  Ascension  Islands.  The  soil  of  these  islands  is 
generally  of  the  richest  character.  They  are  covered  with  a dense 
forest  of  live  oaks  and  other  trees,  and  abound  in  deer,  turkeys,  and 
other  game.  Millions  of  sea  fowls,  at  the  proper  seasons,  frequent 
the  inlets  and  bays  contiguous  to  them,  and  oysters  and  fish  are  in  the 
greatest  abundance,  and  of  the  most  excellent  quality.  Thomas’  Island 
is  acquiring  reputation  as  a resort  for  health.  From  the  purity  of  the  air 
of  the  gulf,  and  the  cool  breeze  of  the  trade  winds,  and  the  opportunities 
of  sea  bathing,  and  the  refreshing  verdure  of  the  island,  it  would  be  a 
delightful  summer  residence,  were  it  not  for  the  annoyance  of  its  myriads 
of  musquitos.  As  it  is,  it  is  a charming  place  in  which  to  pass  the 
winter. 

These  islands  have  come  in  demand,  since  the  recent  discovery,  that 
their  soil  and  climate  are  peculiarly  favorable  to  the  cultivation  of  the 
sugar  cane.  They  will  soon  be  covered  with  that  kind  of  cultivation. 
Although  there  are  extensive  marshes  between  them  and  the  high  grounds 
of  Attakapas,  yet  as  these  marshes  are  situated  north  of  the  islands,  and 
as  the  summer  winds  blow  almost  invariably  from  the  south,  they  have  all 
the  chances  for  being  salubrious,  that  they  would  have,  if  they  were 
wholly  removed  from  marshes.  Thomas’  island  is  connected  with  the 
main  land  by  a cause  way.  There  is  an  astonishing  peculiarity  apper- 
taining to  this,  and  most  of  the  islands  along  this  shore.  Rising  from  the 
sea  in  the  midst  of  a marsh,  skirted  by  an  immense  prairie,  as  level  almost 
as  the  gulf,  and  elevated  but  a few  feet  above  its  surface,  the  islands  rise 
like  bluff  hills,  and  have  an  elevation  rated  differently  from  twenty  to  one 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea,  and  above  the  prairies  in  the  vicinity.  The 
singularity  of  the  appearance,  which  they  present  from  this  circumstance, 
can  only  be  readily  conceived  by  one,  who  has  seen  the  country.  To 
find  the  cause  of  this  elevation,  and  to  account  for  it  on  geological  prin- 
ciples, has  furnished  new  employment  for  geologists. 


254 


LOUISIANA. 


Beside  the  sea  islands,  there  are  many  lake  and  marsh  islands  on  thi& 
shore,  some  of  them  of  considerable  extent.  Sicily  Island,  between  Ca- 
tahoola  and  Natchez  is  not  only  a body  of  fine  soil,  but  from  its  position 
and  appearance,  presents  an  aspect  of  great  interest.  In  the  midst  of  a 
vast  swamp,  and  insulated  by  marshes  and  bayous,  and  in  the  season  of 
high  waters  by  the  overflow  of  the  Mississippi,  a large  body  of  the  richest 
alluvial  land,  entirely  above  the  highest  floods,  rises  like  a glacis  to 
bluffs  of  pine  woods,  and  we  see  their  ever  verdant  tops  waving  above  the 
vast  surrounding  morass.  On  this  island  are  some  of  the  best  planta- 
tions in  the  parish  of  Catahoola. 

Bays.  We  have  seen  that  the  shores  of  the  gulf  are  generally  low.. 
They  are  especially  so  along  the  front  of  this  state.  Vast  extents  of  marsh 
and  trembling  prairie  interpose  between  the  sea  and  the  cultivable  lands. 
The  lakes,  inlets  and  sounds  are  connected  by  an  inextricable  tissue  of 
communications  and  passes  accessible  by  vessels  and  baycraft,  are 
impossible  to  be  known  except  by  pilots,  perfectly  acquainted  with  the 
waters.  Hence  the  security  afforded  to  small  piratical  vessels,  command- 
ed by  men,  who  could  guide  them  by  sinuous  and  narrow  channels,  where 
none,  but  the  most  experienced  pilots  could  follow  them.  The  shore  is 
indented  by  numberless  small  bays,  very  few  of  them  affording  sufficient 
water  to  shelter  vessels.  Berwick’s  Bay  is  the  only  one,  that  has  any, 
considerable  extent. 

Prairies.  A very  great  proportion  of  the  surface  of  this  state  is  covered 
with  prairies.  Almost  all  these  prairies  are  connected,  and  form,  like 
the  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  a family,  through  which  the  connection  of 
of  all  the  branches  may  be  traced.  The  prairies,  that  are  included  un- 
der the  general  name  of  Attakapas,  are  the  first,  that  occur  west  of  the 
Mississippi.  The  parish  of  Attakapas  is  situated  in  these  prairies.  The 
name  implies  i man  eater?  in  the  language  of  the  savages,  who  formerly 
inhabited  it,  and  who  are  reported  to  have  been  cannibals.  It  is  an  im- 
mense plain  of  grass,  spreading  from  the  Atchafalaya  on  the  north  to  the 
gulf  on  the  south.  Being  open  to  the  gulf,  it  is  generally  fanned  by  the 
refreshing  breezes  of  that  sea.  Its  aspect  of  extreme  fertility,  its  bound- 
less plain  of  grass,  its  cheering  views,  its  dim  verdant  outline,  mingling 
with  the  blue  of  the  sky,  white  houses  seen  in  the  distance,  innu- 
merable cattle  and  horses  grazing  on  the  plain,  or  reposing  here  and 
there  under  the  shade  of  its  wooded  points  have  an  indescribable  pleasant- 
ness to  the  traveller,  who  has  been  toiling  on  his  way  through  the 
tangle,  the  swamps,  and  along  stagnant  lakes,  and  the  dark  and  deep 
forest  of  the  Mississippi  bottom.  All  at  once  he  leaves  the  stifling  air, 
the  musquitoes,  the  rank  cane,  the  annoying  nettles,  and  the  dark  brown 


LOUISIANA. 


255 


shade,  and  emerges  in  this  noble  and  cheerful  plain,  and  feels  the  cool 
and  salubrious  breeze  of  the  gulf.  At  first  he  finds  it  almost  painful  to 
dilate  that  vision,  which  has  so  long  been  confined  in  the  forest,  to  the 
contemplation  of  the  boundless  prospect,  before  him.  He  sees,  spread 
out  under  his  eye,  an  immense  tract  of  beautiful  country,  containing  in 
1820,  more  than  12,000  people,  all  subsisting  by  agriculture. 

Advancing  west,  he  passes  from  this  to  Opelousas  prairie,  still  larger 
than  the  other,  and  computed  to  contain  nearly  8,000  square  miles,  ft 
'is  divided  by  bayous,  wooded  grounds,  points  and  bends,  and  other  natural 
boundaries,  into  a number  of  prairies,  which  have  separate  names  and 
marks  of  distinction.  Taken  in  its  whole  extent,  it  is  bounded  by  the 
Attakapas  prairie  on  the  east,  pine  woods  and  hills  on  the  north,  the 
Sabine  on  the  west,  and  the  gulf  on  the  south.  The  soil,  though  in  many 
places  very  fertile,  is  in  general  less  so,  than  the  former.  It  atones  for 
that  deficiency  by  being  more  salubrious,  being  generally  deemed  the 
healthiest  region  in  the  state.  There  are  here  very  considerable  cotton 
plantations,  and  some  of  indigo  ; and  the  parish,  which  bears  its  name, 
is  one  of  the  most  populous  in  the  state.  The  people  of  the  former  are 
devoted  to  the  growth  of  the  sugar  cane.  This  is  the  centre  of  the  land 
of  shepherds.  The  greater  number  of  the  people  are  chiefly  devoted  to 
that  employment,  and  they  number  their  cattle  by  thousands. 

Bellevue  prairie  is  partly  in  Opelousas,  partly  in  Attakapas.  It 
affords,  as  its  name  imports,  a delightful  prospect.  It  is  watered  on  its 
western  limits  by  Bayou  Queue  Tortue,  Plaquemine  Brule,  Bayou 
Melet,  Prairie  Grand  Chevruil,  Laurent,  Alabama,  Wikoffs’,  Le  Melles’, 
Avoyelles’,  Merom,  or  Marom  Grand  prairie.  Calcasiu  and  Sabine 
prairies  are  names,  that  designate  the  different  forms,  shapes  and 
openings  of  this  continuous  line  of  prairies,  as  it  stretches  along  the 
settlements  from  the  Plaquemine  to  the  Sabine. 

Some  of  them,  as  Opelousas,  are  of  immense  extent.  That  of  the 
Sabine  is  boundless  to  the  vision.  Calcasiu  is  seventy  miles  long  by 
twenty  wide.  They  are  generally  so  level,  as  to  strike  the  eye  as  a perfect 
plain.  They  have,  however,  slight  swells  and  declinations,  sufficient  to 
carry  the  water  from  them.  Though  after  long  rains  they  are  extremely 
wet,  and  immense  tracts  are  covered  with  water.  They  have  a gentle 
and  imperceptible  slope  towards  the  gulf,  and  generally  terminate,  before 
they  reach  the  shore,  in  wet  marshes,  into  which,  when  the  south  wind 
blows,  the  sea  is  driven.  These  marshes  are  covered  with  a luxuriant 
growth  of  tall,  reedy  grass,  called  cane  grass.  In  various  parts  of  these 
prairies,  there  are  islands  of  timbered  lands.  They  generally  have  an  ap- 
pearance of  such  regularity  and  beauty,  that  a stranger  is  with  difficulty 


256 


LOUISIANA. 


convinced,  that  they  are  not  clumps  of  trees,  planted  out  in  circular,  square, 
or  triangular  forms  for  the  beauty  of  their  appearance.  It  would  be 
impossible  to  convey  to  one,  who  has  not  felt  it,  an  idea  of  the  effect 
produced  by  one  of  these  circular  clumps  of  trees,  seeming  a kind  of 
tower  of  verdure,  rising  from  an  ocean  of  grass.  Wherever  a bayou,  or  a 
stream  crosses  the  prairie,  it  is  marked  with  a fringe  of  timber,  which 
strikes  the  eye  of  an  observer,  like  the  lines  of  trees  in  landscape 
painting. 

At  the  points  of  these  prairies,  and  wherever  the  streams  and  bayous 
cross  them,  the  soil  is  rich.  But  they  become  of  a thinner  and  more 
sterile  soil,  as  we  advance  towards  the  Sabine.  Attakapas  is  the  first  and 
most  fertile,  and  that  of  the  Sabine  the  last  and  the  most  sterile.  On  the 
skirts  even  of  the  poorer  prairies,  near  water  courses  and  abundant  winter 
range,  there  is  a sparse  population  quite  to  the  Sabine.  The  situations 
are  generally  selected  with  a view  to  their  being  favorable  for  the  raising 
of  cattle.  There  are  a few  cotton  plantations  beyond  Opelousas  prairie. 
But  most  of  the  people  subsist  by  raising  cattle  and  horses.  Some 
years  since,  three  men  of  this  region  numbered  above  15,000  head  of 
horned  cattle,  and  2,000  horses  and  mules.  Some  of  the  situations  on 
these  lonely,  but  delightful  prairies,  have  been  selected  with  such  refer- 
ence to  beauty  and  prospect,  lhat  we  question  if  any  in  Arcadia  surpass- 
ed them.  They  raise  sheep,  the  mutton  of  which  is  excellent;  but  the 
wool  coarse.  Many  of  the  horses  are  of  the  Andalusian  and  Numidian 
breed ; and  the  cattle  sleek,  slender,  elegantly  formed,  and  spirited  in 
their  movements.  They  are  driven  to  New  Orleans  for  a market.  Many 
of  the  inhabitants  are  French,  clad  in  leather,  abounding  with  milk  and 
honey,  often  opulent,  but  clinging  to  the  simplicity  of  pastoral  life  from 
habit  and  inclination.  The  traveller  looks  round  upon  thousands  of 
cattle,  and  a rustic  abundance  of  every  thing,  appertaining  to  a shepherd’s 
life;  and  is  welcomed  with  a genuine  hospitality,  accompanied  with 
French  urbanity. 

It  has  been  observed,  that  in  advancing  towards  these  sequestered  re- 
gions the  traveller  from  New  Orleans  observes  a decrease  of  luxury  and 
refinement,  corresponding  to  his  advance  on  his  journey,  evidencing  a 
similitude  of  inverted  history.  He  travels  through  all  the  different 
stages  of  refinement,  from  the  luxury  of  that  showy  and  expensive  city, 
to  the  mansions  of  the  opulent  and  rural  planters  of  Attakapas,  the  petits 
pay  sans  beyond,  and  the  Arcadian  habitations  of  the  French  planters 
near  the  Sabine. 

Avoyelles  prairie  has  a very  narrow  front  on  Bed  river,  is  rich  and 
alluvial  in  point  of  soil,  and  of  moderate  extent,  being  seldom  more  than 


LOUISIANA. 


257 


three  or  four  miles  wide.  It  runs  back  from  Red  river  a considerable 
distance,  and  constitutes  the  parish,  the  name  of  which  it  bears.  It  is  in- 
habited by  cotton  planters  and  people  who  subsist  by  raising  cattle. 
They  are  principally  French. 

Catahoola  prairie,  on  Catahoola  or  Little  river  and  the  Washita  has  in 
many  respects  a resemblance  to  that  of  Avoyelles*  This  prairie,  togeth- 
er with  Sicily  island,  constitutes  the  chief  part  of  the  parish  of  Catahoola. 
There  are  also,  very  extensive  prairies  between  Washita  and  Red  river. 
They  spread  in  a line,  which  meanders,  like  the  course  of  the  rivers, 
through  the  wooded  country,  until  they  connect  themselves  with  the  im- 
mense grassy  plains  on  the  upper  courses  of  these  rivers.  They  are 
generally  second  or  third  rate  land,  for  the  most  part  uninhabited,  and 
many  of  them  as  yet  without  a name. 

Three  new  parishes  have  been  recently  created  by  the  legislature.  The 
parish  of  Plaquemine  is  situated  north  of  lake  Borgne,  west  of  New  Or- 
leans, and  is  bounded  on  the  southeast  by  the  gulf  of  Mexico.  The 
greater  part  of  its  surface  is  swampy.  It  produces  all  the  articles  of  cul- 
ture in  Louisiana;  but  sugar  is  the  staple. 

The  parish  of  Orleans  includes  the  city.  Chef  Menteur,  Rigolets,  Bayou 
Bienvenu,  Bayou  Gentilly  and  Bayou  St.  Johns,  are  all  in  this  parish, 
and  are  famous  in  the  history  of  the  late  war.  Lake  Ponchartrain,  lake 
Borgne, Barartaria  bay  in  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  Caminda  bay,  lake  Des  islets, 
lake  Rond,  Little  lake  and  Quacha  lake  are  in  the  limits  of  this  parish. 
Sugar,  and  after  that,  cotton  are  the  staples.  Along  the  coast  there  are 
groves  of  orange  trees,  and  the  fig  is  extensively  raised.  In  this  parish  are 
the  greater  part  of  the  defences,  that  are  intended  to  fortify  the  city  of  New 
Orleans  against  the  attack  of  a foreign  foe.  The  chief  fortifications  are 
on  those  points,  by  which  the  British  approached  the  city  during  the  late 
war.  Extensive  fortifications  of  brick  have  been  erected  at  Petits  Coquil- 
les,  Chief  Menteur  and  Bayou  Bienvenu,  the  two  former  guarding  the 
passes  of  the  Rigolets,  between  lake  Borgne  and  lake  Ponchartrain, 
and  the  latter  the  approach  from  lake  Borgne  towards  New  Orleans.  A 
great  work,  to  mount  120  cannon  is  erected  at  Plaquemine  on  the 
Mississippi.  These  works,  fall  not  far  short  of  the  expense  of  two 
million  dollars.  Fort  St.  Johns,  at  the  entrance  of  the  Bayou  St.  Johns 
into  lake  Ponchartrain,  is  well  situated  for  the  defence  of  the  pass.  It 
is  an  ancient  establishment  of  the  former  regime.  The  guns  are  of  vast 
calibre;  but  they  appear  to  be  scaled,  and  the  walls  have  a ruinous  aspect. 
These  points  of  defence  have  been  selected  with  great  judgment,  and 
have  been  fortified  with  so  much  care,  that  it  is  supposed  no  enemy  could 
ever  again  approach  the  city  by  the  same  passes,  through  which  it  was 
approached  by  the  British,  in  the  past  war.  New  Orleans,  the  key  of 
the  Mississippi  valley,  and  the  depot  of  its  agriculture  and  commerce,  is 

33 


258 


LOUISIANA. 


already  a city  of  immense  importance,  and  is  every  year  becoming  more 
so.  This  city  has  strong  natural  defences,  in  its  position  and  its  climate. 
It  is  now  strongly  defended  by  artificial  fortifications.  But,  after  all, "the 
best  defence  of  this,  and  of  all  other  cities,  is  the  vigilant  and  patriotic 
energy  of  the  masses  of  free  men,  who  can  now  by  steam  boats  be  brought 
down  to  its  defence  in  a few  days  from  the  remotest  points  of  the  west. 
It  is  not  to  be  forgotten,  that  by  the  same  conveyance,  an  enemy  might 
also  be  brought  against  it. 

Of  the  other  parishes  we  may  remark  in  general,  that  as  far  up  the  Mis- 
sissippi, as  the  parish  of  Baton  Rouge  on  the  east  side,  and  Point  Coupee 
on  the  west,  the  cultivation  of  sugar  cane  is  the  chief  pursuit.  The 
same  may  be  said  of  Plaquemine,  Lafourche  and  Attakapas-  The  staple 
article  of  the  western  parishes  beyond  is  cotton.- — The  parishes  north  of 
lake  Ponchartrain,  which  formerly  made  a part  of  Florida,  with  the  ex- 
ception of  some  few  tracts,  and  the  alluvions  of  Pearl  river  and  Bogue 
Chitto,  have  a sterile  soil.  They  raise  large  flocks  of  cattle,  and  send 
great  quantities  of  lumber  to  New  Orleans,  together  with  pitch,  tar,  tur- 
pentine, and  charcoal.  They  burn  great  quantities  of  lime  from  the  beds  of 
shells,  which  cover  whole  tracts  near  the  lakes;  and  they  send  sand  from 
the  beaches  of  the  lakes,  for  covering  the  pavements  of  New  Orleans. 
They  have,  also,  for  some  years  past,  manufactured  bricks  to  a great 
amount,  and  transported  them  across  the  lake.  They  have  a great  number 
of  schooners,  that  ply  on  the  lakes  in  this  and  other  employments.  The 
people,  engaged  in  this  extensive  business,  find  the  heavy  tolls  demanded 
on  the  canal  a great  impediment  in  the  way  of  the  profit  of  this  trade. 
The  country,  generally,  is  covered  with  open  pine  woods,  and  has  small 
tracts  of  second  rate  land  interspersed  among  them.  It  is  valuable, 
from  its  inexhaustible  supplies  of  timber,  and  wood  for  the  New  Or- 
leans market. 

Chief  Towns.  New  Orleans,  the  commercial  capital  of  the  state, 
and  the  emporium  of  western  commerce,  is  situated  on  the  ^ast  shore  of 
the  Mississippi  in  a bend  so  deep  and  sinuous,  that  the  sun  rises  to  the 
inhabitants  of  the  city  from  the  opposite  shore,  in  north  latitude  29°  57' ; 
and  in  90°  8'  west  longitude  from  Greenwich;  and  in  13°  9'  from  Wash- 
ington, 105  miles  by  the  meanders  of  the  river  from  the  Balize,  and  90 
miles  in  a direct  line;  not  far  from  1,000  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio;  and  a little  more  than  1,200  below  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri. 
It  is  nearly  intermediate  between  Boston  and  Mexico,  although  the  pas- 
sage from  New  Orleans  to  Vera  Cruz  is  much  shorter  by  sea,  than  to 
Boston.  It  consists  of  the  old  city,  propeily  so  called,  which  is  built  in 
the  form  of  a parallelogram,  of  which  the  longer  sides  are  1,320  yards  in 
length,  and  the  shorter,  or  the  depth  of  the  city  towards  the  swamp,  700 


LOUISIANA, 


259 


yards.  Above  the  city  are  the  suburbs  St.  Mary,  and  Annunciation. 
Below  the  city  are  the  suburbs  Marigny,  Daunois,  and  Declouif.  These 
are  called  Fauxbourgs.  Between  the  city  and  the  Bayou  St.  John  are 
the  villages  St.  Claude  and  St.  Johnsburg.  Whoever  will  look  at  its 
position  on  the  map,  will  see  at  once  its  unrivalled  advantages  of  position, 
for  a commercial  capital.  Accessible  quickly,  and  at  all  times  by  large 
ships  from  the  sea,  its  long  distance  above  it,  and  the  sinuosities  of  the 
river  give  it  uncommon  capabilities  of  defence  from  foreign  annoyance. 
It  has  probably  twice  as  much  extent  of  boat  navigation  above  it,  as  any 
other  city  on  the  globe.  Taking  the  length  of  all  the  tributaries  of  the 
.Mississippi,  that  are  navigable,  and  actually  navigated  by  steam  boats,  it 
is  not  extravagant  to  say,  that  the  sum  would  exceed  20,000  miles,-  and 
these  waters  penetrate  the  most  fertile  soils,  and  pass  through  the  pleas- 
antest climates.  Its  advantages  of  communication  with  the  country, 
immediately  adjacent  to  it,  have  been  overlooked,  in  comparison  with 
those  of  its  relation  to  the  upper  country.  But  even  in  these  respects  it  is 
unrivalled.  By  the  basin  of  the  canal,  and  the  Bayou  St.  John  it  commu- 
nicates with  lake  Ponchartrain,  and  the  connected  lakes;  with  the  oppo- 
site Florida  shore,  with  Mobile,  Pensacola,  and  the  whole  gul^shore,  east 
and  west.  Not  a few  vessels,  clear  from  the  basin  for  the  Atlantic  and 
Mexican  ports.  The  basin  is  scarcely  distant  a quarter  of  a mile  from 
the  ship  landing  on  the  Mississippi.  A person  on  the  basin  Wharf  can 
see  the  masts  of  the  vessels,  lying  on  the  shore  of  the  levee,  ahthyet  a vessel 
sailing  from  the  Basin,  would  have  to  sail  through  the  lakes  along  the 
gulf  shore,  and  up  the  Mississippi,  some  hundreds  of  miles,  to  arrive  at  so 
little  distance  from  her  former  position.  Even  the  commerce  and  ship- 
ping of  the  basin  would  be  sufficient  for  the  support  of  a considerable  city. 
There  is  an  incorporation,  to  connect  the  lake  with  the  Mississippi  by 
a canal,  directly  from  the  one  to  the  other.  A most  necessary  and  impor- 
tant canal  is,  also  contemplated,  for  connecting  Attakapas  with  the  city. 
Nature  has  almost  completed  the  line  of  communication.  At  present 
the  Bayous  Plaquemine  and  Lafourche  furnish  that  communication. 
Although  steam  boats  run  between  Opelousas  and  Attakapas  by  these 
routes  and  the  Teche,  yet  the  mouths  of  these  Bayous  are  liable  to  be 
choaked  with  timber,  and  the  navigation  is  generally  attended  with  some 
difficulty,  and  is  moreover  circuitous.  There  are  so  many  communica- 
tions by  water  between  New  Orleans  and  the  lower  parts  of  Louisiana, 
accessible  by  the  smaller  boats,  that  all  of  them  are  only  known  to  people, 
who  have  been  in  habits  for  a long  time,  of  exploring  them,  for  the  sake 
of  finding  new  and  shorter  routes  to  their  destination. 

Viewed  from  the  harbor  on  a sunny  day,  no  city  offers  a more  striking 
panoramic  view.  It  envelopes  the  beholder  something  in  the  form  of.  a 


260 


LOUISIANA* 


crescent.  An  area  of  many  acres  covered  with  all  the  grotesque  variety 
of  flat  boats,  keel  boats,  and  water  crafts  of  every  description,  that  have 
floated  from  all  points  of  the  valley  above,  lines  the  upper  part  of  the 
shore.  Steam  boats  rounding  to,  or  sweeping  away  cast  their  long  hori- 
zontal streams  of  smoke  behind  them.  Sloops,  schooners,  brigs,  and 
ships  occupy  the  wharves,  arranged  below  each  other,  in  the  order  of  their 
size,  showing  a forest  of  masts.  The  foreign  aspect  of  the  stuccoed 
houses  in  the  city  proper,  the  massive  buildings  of  the  Fauxbourg  St. 
Mary,  the  bustle  and  movement  on  every  side,  all  seen  at  one  view  in  the 
bright  coloring  of  the  brilliant  sun  and  sky  of  the  climate,  present  a 
splendid  spectacle. 

The  wooden  buildings,  of  which  the  city  was  formerly  in  a great  mea- 
sure composed,  have  given  place  to  buildings  of  brick.  The  city,  prop- 
erly so  called,  and  the  Fauxbourg  St.  Mary  are  compactly,  and  substan- 
tially built.  In  the  city,  the  French  and  Spanish  styles  of  building  pre- 
dominate. The  houses  are  stuccoed  externally,  and  this  stucco,  of  a 
white  or  yellow  color,  strikes  the  eye  more  pleasantly,  than  the  dull  and 
sombre  red  of  brick.  There  can  be  no  question,  but  the  American 
mode  of  building  is  more  commodious,  solid,  and  durable;  but  the  latter 
mode  has  the  preference,  in  its  general  effect  upon  the  eye.  To  an 
American  viewing  them  for  the  first  time,  there  is  something  fantastic 
and  unique  in  the  appearance  of  the  city  streets,  which  wears  a resem- 
blance to  European  French  and  Spanish  towns,  rather  than  American.. 
The  Fauxbourg  St.  Mary,  and  many  other  parts  of  the  city  are  built  after 
the  American  fashion,  and  have  nothing  in  their  appearance,  different 
from  an  Atlantic  town. 

The  city  contains  six  complete  squares;  each  square  having  a front  of 
319  feet  in  length.  Each  square  is  divided  into  12  lots.  Few  of  the 
streets,  except  Canal  street,  are  more  than  40  feet  wide.  The  names  of 
the  principal  streets  are  Levee,  Chartres,  Royal,  Burgundy,  Dauphine, 
Toulouse,  &c.  The  public  buildings  are  the  Town  House,  at  the  north- 
west corner  of  Chartres  and  St.  Peter’s  streets;  the  Hospital,  standing 
in  the  suburb  St.  Mary,  opposite  the  square,  between  Dauphine  and  Bur- 
gundy streets;  the  Cathedral  church  of  St.  Louis,  in  front  of  Orleans 
street,  upon  Chartres  street ; the  Convent  of  Ursuline  nuns,  upon  Ursuline 
street,  between  Levee  and  Chartres  streets;  the  Barracks,  upon  Garrison 
and  Levee  streets;  the  Custom  House,  in  front  of  the  square,  between 
Canal  and  Levee  streets;  the  Market  House,  upon  the  Levee,  in  front 
of  the  square,  between  St.  Anne  and  Du  Maine  streets;  Orleans  Bank, 
upon  Conti,  between  Chartres  and  Royal  streets;  Louisiana  Bank,  upon 
Royal,  between  Conti  and  St.  Louis  streets;  Planter’s  Bank,  south-west 
corner  of  Conti  and  Royal  streets;  Government  House,  north-west 

■i  < mSKUaSsM  I 


LOUISIANA. 


261 


corner  of  Levee  and  Toulouse  streets;  District  Court  of  the  United 
States,  between  Du  Maine  and  Phillippe  streets;  and  the  Water  Works 
on  Levee  street,  in  front  of  the  square,  between  Ursuline  and  St.  Philip 
streets.  A very  large  and  splendid  building  is  fitted  up  for  the  State 
Bank.  The  French  Theatre  is  in  the  city  and  the  American  in  the 
Fauxbourg  St.  Mary.  The  Presbyterian  church  is  also  in  this  Fauxbourg. 

The  Cathedral  stands  at  the  head  of  a spacious  square,  400  feet  [from 
the  river.  The  building  is  of  brick,  extending  90  feet  on  the  street,  and 
120  back  of  it.  The  roof  is  covered,  as  are  most  of  the  French  and 
Spanish  houses,  with  hollow  tile,  and  is  supported  by  ten  plastered  brick 
columns.  It  has  four  towers,  of  which  one  contains  two  bells.  It  has 
an  organ,  and  is  finished  within  with  great  massiveness  and  simplicity. 
It  is  an  imposing  fabric,  and  the  interior  seems  calculated  to  excite 
religious  feeling.  Under  its  stone  pavements  are  deposited  the  illustrious 
dead.  In  niches  and  recesses  are  the  figures  of  the  saints,  in  their  ap- 
propriate dress,  and  with  those  pale  and  unearthly  countenances,  which 
are  so  much  in  keeping  with  the  common  ideas  entertained  of  them. — 
The  walls  are  so  thick,  that  though  in  the  very  centre  of  business,  you 
hear  only  a confused  whisper  within,  and  are  almost  as  still  as  in  the 
centre  of  a forest.  You  go  but  a few  paces  from  the  crowds  that  are 
pressing  along  Levee  street,  and  from  the  rattle  of  carriages  that  are 
stationed  near  this  place,  and  you  find  yourself  in  a kind  of  vaulted 
apartment,  and  in  perfect  stillness.  The  tapers  are  burning,  and  some 
few  are  always  kneeling  within  in  silent  prayer.  Images  of  death,  of  the 
invisible  world,  and  of  eternity,  surround  you.  The  dead  sleep  under 
your  feet.  You  are  in  the  midst  of  life,  and  yet  there  reigns  here  a per- 
petual tranquility.  A new  Catholic  church  has  been  recently  erected. 

The  Presbyterian  church  is  of  brick,  and  is  a very  large  and  handsome 
building.  The  Episcopal  church  is  small,  but  light  and  neat  in  its  struc- 
ture. The  Mariner’s  church  is  a respectable  building,  not  yet  completed. 
The  prison  and  the  French  theatre  are  very  large,  and  externally  disagree- 
able buildings,  though  the  coup  d^ceil  of  the  view,  in  the  interior  of  the 
French  theatre  is  very  brilliant.  The  American  theatre,  in  the  Fauxbourg 
St.  Mary,  is  a neat  and  commodious  building.  The  Charity  Hospital, 
though  not  a very  beautiful  building,  has  a moral  beauty  of  the  highest 
order.  It  is,  probably,  one  of  the  most  efficient  and  useful  charities  in 
the  country.  New  Orleans  is  exposed  to  greater  varieties  of  human 
misery,  vice,  disease,  and  want,  than  any  other  American  town.  Here 
misery  and  disease  find  a home,  clean  apartments,  faithful  nursing,  and 
excellent  medical  attendance.  Under  this  roof  more  miserable  objects 
have  been  sheltered,  more  have  been  dismissed  cured,  and  more  have  been 
carried  to  their  long  home,  than  from  any  other  hospital  among  us. 


262 


LOUISIANA. 


The  College  is  a respectable  building,  and  has  had  ample  endowments ; 
but  has  done  little  as  yet  for  the  literature  of  the  country.  There  is  a 
convent  of  Ursuline  nuns,  who  receive  day  scholars  and  boarders  for  the 
various  branches  of  rudimental  education.  The  Female  Orphan  Asylum 
is  a most  interesting  charity,  dating  its  efficient  operations  from  the 
benevolent  donations  of  the  late  Mr.  Poydras.  It  has  commonly  70  or 
80  destitute  female  children,  under  sober  and  discreet  instructresses,  all 
plainly  and  neatly  clad,  and  constantly  occupied,  either  in  acquiring  the 
rudiments  of  education,  or  of  needle  work.  They  are  dressed  in  plain 
uniforms,  and  worship  part  of  the  Sabbath  day  in  the  Catholic,  and  part 
in  the  Protestant  church.  An  institution  of  a similar  character  for 
boys,  and  endowed  also  by  the  benevolent  Poydras,  is  now  in  operation. 

There  are  a number  of  other  charitable  institutions  in  this  city  of 
respectable  character ; and  when  the  epidemic,  yellow  fever,  visits  it,  the 
manner  in  which  the  inhabitants  bestow  charity,  nursing,  shelter,  and 
medical  aid  to  the  sick  is  worthy  of  all  praise.  A Library,  for  the  use  of 
the  poorer  reading  young  men  of  the  city,  has  been  instituted,  and  in  the 
extent  of  her  efficient  and  useful  charities,  New  Orleans  is  not  far  behind 
her  Atlantic  sisters.  There  are  fewer  churches  in  the  city,  than  in  any 
other  town  of  the  same  size  in  the  United  States.  There  are  but  three 
Catholic  places  of  worship,  one  Presbyterian,  one  Episcopalian,  a Mariners 
church,  a Baptist  and  a Methodist  place  ofworship.  Very  little^bservance 
of  the  Sabbath,  as  northern  people  estimate  it,  is  seen  in  this  city.  It  is 
well  known,  that  the  forms  of  the  Catholic  worship  do  not  forbid  amuse- 
ments on  the  Sabbath. 

No  city  in  the  United  States  contains  such  a variety  of  inhabitants  from 
every  state  in  the  Union,  and  from  every  nation  in  Europe ; and  there  are 
not  a few  from  the  Spanish  country,  and  the  islands.  There  is  an  aston- 
ishing contrast  of  manners,  language  and  complexion.  One  half  the 
population  is  black  or  colored.  The  French  population  probably  as  yet 
predominates  over  the  American.  Among  the  Americans,  the  inhabitants 
of  the  city  of  New  York  seem  to  have  the  greater  number,  and  there  is 
more  intercourse  between  New  Orleans  and  New  York,  than  any  other 
American  city.  The  intercourse  with  Plavana  and  Vera  Cruz  is  great, 
and  constantly  increasing. 

The  French  display  in  this  city,  as  elsewhere,  their  characteristic 
urbanity  and  politeness,  and  are  the  same  gay,  amiable,  dancing,  spectacle- 
loving  people,  that  they  are  found  to  be  in  every  other  place.  There  is, 
no  doubt,  much  gambling  and  dissipation  practised,  and  different  licensed 
gambling  houses  pay  a large  tax  for  their  licenses.  Much  has  been  said 
abroad  touching  the  profligacy  of  manners  and  morals  here.  Amidst 
such  a multitude,  composed  in  a great  measure  of  the  low  people  of  all 


LOUISIANA. 


263 


nations,  there  must  be  much  debauchery  and  low  vice.  But  all  the  dis- 
gusting forms  of  vice,  debauchery  and  drunkenness  am  assorted  together 
in  their  own  place.  Each  man  has  an  elective  attraction  to  men  of  his 
own  standing  and  order. 

Much  has  been  said  abroad,  in  regard  to  the  unhealtbmess  of  this  city, 
and  tl^p  danger  of  a residence  here  for  an  unacclimated  person,  has  been 
exaggerated.  This  circumstance,  more  than  all  others,  has  retarded  the 
increase  of  this  city.  Unhappily,  when  the  dog  star  is  in  the  sky,  there 
is  but  too  much  probability,  that  the  epidemic  will  sweep  the  place  with 
the  besom  of  destruction.  Hundreds  of  the  unacclimated  poor  from  the 
north,  and  more  than  all  from  Ireland,  fall  victims  to  it. 

The  supply  of  the  excellent  water  of  the  Mississippi,  by  the  water  works 
now  in  operation,  is  very  inadequate.  It  is  contemplated  to  extend  the 
means  of  supply.  No  city  in  the  Union  can  be  furnished  more  cheaply 
and  easily.  Were  the  supply  equal  to  washing  the  streets  in  every  direc- 
tion, it  would  tend  more  to  the  preservation  of  the  public  health,  in  all 
probability,  than  any  other  conservative  means  that  could  be  employed; 
and  it  is  matter  of  surprise,  that  such  a simple  and  obvious  measure  has 
not  already  been  adopted.  It  is  believed,  that  every  street,  which  has  the 
least  inclination  of  descent,  might  be  kept  clean  by  the  healthy  water  of 
the  Mississippi  at  a less  expense,  than  is  requisite  for  watering  Cincinnati. 
Very  great  improvements  have  , been  recently  made,  and  are -constantly 
making,  in  paving  the  city,  in  removing  the  wooden  sewers,  and  replacing 
them  by  those  of  stone.  The  low  places,  where  the  water  used  to  stagnate, 
are  drained,  or  filled  up.  Tracts  of  swamp  about  the  town  are  draining, 
or  filling  up;  and  this  work,  constantly  pursued,  will,  probably,  contribute 
more  to  the  salubrity  of  the  city,  than  all  the  other  efforts  to  this  end 
united. 

The  commerce  of  this  city  is  immense,  and  constantly  increasing. — 
There  have  been  counted  in  the  harbor,  1,500  flat  boats  at  a time.  Steam 
boats  are  coming  and  departing  every  hour;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
see  50  lying  in  the  harbor  at  a time.  A forest  of  masts  is  constantly  seen 
along  the  levee,  except  in  the  sultry  months.  There  are  often  5 or  6,000 
boatmen  from  the  upper  country  here;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to 
see  40  vessels  advertised  for  Liverpool  and  Havre.  No  place  in  the 
United  States  has  so  much  activity  and  bustle  of  commerce,  crowded  into 
so  small  a space  in  the  months  of  February  and  March.  During  the 
season  of  bringing  in  the  cotton  crop,  whole  streets  are  barricaded  with 
cotton  bales.  The  amount  of  domestic  exports  from  this  city  exceeds 
twelve  millions  of  dollars  a year,  being  greater  than  that  of  any  other 
city  of  the  Union,  except  New  York,  and  nearly  equalling  that.  The 
greatest  items  that  make  this  amount,  are  sugar  and  cotton. 


264 


LOUISIANA* 


It  is  believed,  that  it  will  not  be  long,  before  the  great  and  opulent  city 
of  New  Orleans  will  commence,  on  a scale  commensurate  with  her  re-* 
sources  and  enterprise,  a system  of  reclaiming  the  immense  swamps,  iit 
the  midst  of  which  she  is  placed,  by  navigable  canals. 

Notwithstanding  the  disadvantage  of  being  reported  unhealthy,  few 
towns  in  the  United  States  increase  with  greater  rapidity.  Within  the 
last  three  years,  a thousand  houses  have  been  added  to  its  buildings,  prin- 
cipally fronting  along  the  river  in  the  Fauxbourg  St.  Mary,  most  of  them 
massive  and  commodious.  The  recently  finished  rail  road  from  Rampart 
Street  to  Lake  Ponchartrain  is  not  only  in  itself  a noble  and  useful  work* 
but  has  essentially  tended  to  reclaim  from  the  swamp  a considerable 
tract  in  the  rear  of  the  city.  A Bank  has  recently  been  created,  with  a 
capital  of  4,000,000  dollars,  which*  as  the  condition  of  the  charter,  is  to 
make  a canal  from  a point  on  the  river  above  the  city  to  the  lake.  There 
are  five  Banks  in  the  city,  with  a capital  of  more  than  ten  millions  of 
dollars;  and  it  is  advancing  in  all  points  of  opulence,  ornament,  utility* 
and  comfort  in  a progress  of  honorable  competition  with  the  other  principal 
American  cities. 

The  Rail  Road  is  four  and  a half  miles  long*  perfectly  straight,  and  its 
ascent  and  descent  only  16  inches.  The  avenue  on  which  the  roadruns* 
is  150  feet  wide.  The  eye  at  either  extremity  traverses  its  whole  length. 
Standing  on  the  shore  of  the  Mississippi,  the  vessels  sailing  through  the 
Jake  are  seen  at  the  end  of  the  avenue  of  trees,  through  which  the  road 
is  cut.  An  artificial  harbor  and  breakwater  are  constructing  on  the  lake 
at  the  extremity  of  the  road. 

The  facilities  of  getting  a passage  from  this  city  either  to  Europe, 
Mexico,  the  Atlantic  cities,  or  the  interior,  are  very  great.  You 
need  seldom  remain  many  days  without  an  opportunity  to  embark  in  any 
direction.  Steam  boats  are  constantly  advertising  for  Louisville,  and  all 
the  different  points  on  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  Ohio;  and  a 
passage  in  the  beautiful  steam  boats,  that  now  ply  on  these  waters,  is  both 
rapid,  cheap,  and  delightful. 

The  market  ordinarily  is  cheap  and  abundant ; and  by  seizing  the  oppor- 
tunities, the  articles  of  life  may  be  had  as  cheap  as  in  any  other  town 
in  the  United  States.  Corn,  potatoes,  pork,  and  flour  are  sometimes 
so  low,  as  scarcely  to  pay  the  cost  of  transport  from  the  upper  country. 
The  productions  of  all  climes  find  their  way  hither;  and  for  fruits  and 
vegetables,  few  places  can  exceed  it.  On  a pleasant  March  morning, 
perhaps  half  the  city  is  seen  in  the  market.  The  crowd  covers  half  a mile  in 
extent.  The  negroes,  mulattoes,  French,  Spanish,  and  Germans  are  all 
crying  their  several  articles  in  their  several  tongues.  In  the  midst  of  a 
confusion  of  languages,  like  that  of  Babel,  ‘un  picalion,  un  picalion 


LOUISIANA: 


265 


is  the  most  distinguishable  tune.  The  census  of  1830  gives  this  city 
48,456  inhabitants;  but  there  are  times  in  the  year,  when  it  contains 
perhaps  60,000. 

This  city  necessarily  exercises  a very  great  moral  influence  over  all  the 
'western  country.  There  is  no  distinguished  merchant,  planter,  or 
farmer,  in  the  Mississippi  valley,  but  what  has  made  at  least  one  trip  to 
this  place.  Here  they  witness  acting  at  the  French  and  American  theatres., 
Here  they  go  to  inspect,  if  not  to  take  part  in  the  pursuits  of  the  ‘roulette, 
and  temple  of  fortune.’  Here  they  come  from  the  remote  and  isolated 
points  of  the  west  to  see  the  ‘ city  lions?  and  learn  the  ways  of  men  in 
great  towns ; and  they  necessarily  carry  back  an  impression,  from  what 
they  have  seen  and  heard.  It  is  of  inconceivable  importance  to  the 
western  country,  that  New  Orleans  should  be  enlightened,  moral,  and 
religious.  It  has  a numerous  and  respectable  corps  of  professional  men, 
and  issues  a considerable  number  of  well  edited  papers. 

The  police  of  the  city  is  at  once  mild  and  energetic.  Notwithstanding 
the  multifarious  character  of  the  people,  collected  from  every  country 
and  climate,  notwithstanding  the  multitude  of  boatmen  and  sailors,  not- 
withstanding the  mass  of  people,  that  rushes  along  its  streets,  is  of  the 
most  incongruous  materials,  there  are  fewer  broils  and  quarrels  here,  than 
in  almost  any  other  city.  The  municipal  and  criminal  courts  are 
prompt  in  administering  justice;  and  larcenies  and  broils  are  effectually 
punished  without  any  just  grounds  of  complaint  about  the  ‘law’s  delay.’ 
On  the  whole  the  morals  of  those  people,  who  profess  to  have  any  degree 
of  self-respect,  are  not  behind  those  of  the  other  cities  of  the  Union. 

New  Orleans  is  1203  miles  from  Washington,  832  from  St.  Louis, 
1634  from  Boston,  and  1428  from  New  York. 

Donaldsonville,  on  the  west  side  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  efflux  of 
Lafourche,  90  miles  above  New  Orleans,  has  a number  of  houses,  and  has 
been  selected  by  the  Legislature,  as  the  place  for  the  future  political  cap.- 
ital  of  the  state.  Baton  Rouge  is  on  the  east  side  of  the  Mississippi, 
140  miles  above  New  Orleans.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  last  bluff 
that  is  seen  on  descending  the  river.  The  site  is  30  or  40  feet  above  the 
highest  overflow  of  the  river.  This  bluff  rises  from  the  river  by  a gentle 
and  gradual  swell.  The  United  States  barracks  here  are  built  in  a line 
style,  and  are  supposed  to  be  among  the  handsomest  and  most  commodious 
of  that  kind  of  works.  From  the  esplanade  the  prospect  is  delightful, 
including  a great  extent  of  the  coast,  with  its  handsomest  houses  an(£ 
rich  cultivation  below,  and  commanding  an  extensive  view  over  the  back 
country  at  the  east.  The  village  is  tolerably  compact,  and  has  a number 
of  neat  houses.  The  town  itself,  especially  in  the  months  when  the 
greatest  verdure  prevails,  when  seen  from  a steam  boat  in  the  riverr  rising 

34 


266 


LOUISIANA® 


with  such  a fine  swell  from  the  brinks,  and  with  its  singularly  shaped 
French  and  Spanish  houses,  and  its  green  squares,  looks  like  a finely 
painted  landscape.  Its  population  is  rated  at  1,200. 

St.  Francisville  is  a considerable  village,  situated  on  the  eastern  shore 
of  the  river,  and  on  a bluff  a mile  from  its  banks;  is  160  miles  above  New 
Orleans.  It  is  a thriving  village  of  nearly  the  same  size  with  E ton 
Rouge.  A weekly  p per  is  printed  here,  and  Bayou  Sarah,  by  which  the 
town  communicates  with  the  Mississippi,  is  a noted  stopping  place  for 
descending  boats,  and  great  quantities  of  cotton  are  shipped  from  it.— 
At  a considerable  distance  west  of  this  town  is  Jackson,  in  a healthy 
position  in  the  Pine  Woods,  which  is  the  seat  of  an  incipient  college. 

On  the  opposite  shore  is  Point  Coupee,  a wealthy  French  settlement. 
Here  the  levee  commences,  and  extends  thence  to  New  Orleans.  Here 
lived  and  died  Mr.  Poydras,  celebrated  for  his  wealth  and  benevolence. 
He  endowed,  as  we  have  remarked,  asylums  in  New  Orleans,  and  left 
many  other  charitable  donations;  and  among  others,  the  proceeds  of  a 
very  considerable  property  to  be  distributed  in  marriage  portions  to  a 
number  of  poor  girls  in  the  parish  of  Point  Coupee,  and  in  the  adjoining 
parishes. 

Galveztown  is  situated  on  Bayou  Manshac,  or  Ibberville,  not  far  from 
where  it  enters  lake  Ponchartrain.  At  the  mouth  of  the  Tangipp<o  is  the 
village  of  Springfield.  Madisonvdle  is  a small  village  on  the  Chiffuncte, 
two  miles  from  the  north  shore  of  lake  Ponchartrain.  It  is  a place  of 
considerable  summer  resort  from  New  Orleans,  during  the  sickly  months* 
There  are  a number  of  handsome  houses  of  accommodation  for  such  per- 
sons. A navy  yard  was  attempted  by  the  government  on  this  river,  a few 
miles  above  this  village.  Covington  is  a considerable  village,  seven  miles 
above,  on  the  Bogue  Falaya,  a branch  of  the  Chiffuncte.  It  is  the  seat 
of  justice  for  the  parish  of  St.  Tammany,  and  is  the  head  of  schooner 
navigation  on  the  river.  Considerable  cotton  is  shipped  from  this  place. 
General  Jackson’s  Road,  reaching  from  lake  Ponchartrain  to  Nashville, 
passes  through  this  place.  Like  Madisonvdle,  it  is  a place  of  resort  for 
the  citizens  of  New  Orleans  during  the  sickly  season.  Opelousas,  the 
seat  of  justice  for  the  parish  of  that  name,  is  a rising  village  in  the  midst 
of  a respectable  and  compact  settlement,  270  miles  northwest  from  New 
Orleans.  A weekly  gazette  is  issued  from  this  place.  St.  Martinsville, 
on  the  west  side  of  the  Teche,  is  surrounded  by  a settlement  of  opulent 
planters.  New  Iberia  is  also  on  the  west  side  of  the  Teche,  and  being  at 
the  head  of  schooner  navigation,  in  a rich  and  flourishing  country,  must 
eventu  lly  become  a place  of  importance. 

Alex  ndrie,  on  Red  River,  70  miles  from  the  Mississippi,  and  150 
from  the  mouth  of  the  river  by  its  meanders,  is  situated  on  the  south  bank 


LOUISIANA. 


of  the  river,  a half  a mile  below  the  f 11,  at  the  mouth  of  Bayou  Rapide. 
It  is  central  to  the  rich  cotton  planting  country  of  B ycus  Rapide, 
Robert,  and  Boeuf.  It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  parish,  has  a Bank, 
issues  a weekly  paper,  has  a number  of  stores,  and  respectable  attornies 
and  physicians  The  site  of  the  town  is  a beautiful  plain,  and  tne  village 
is  embosomed  in  China  and  other  ornamental  trees.  Vast  quantities  of 
cotton  are  exported  from  this  place. 

Natchitoches  is  80  miles  above  Alexandria,  by  the  meanders  of  the 
river,  and  something  more  than  60  by  And.  The  river  is  here  divided 
into  two  parallel  br;  nches,  and  the  town  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
southern  branch.  It  is  the  last  town  of  any  size,  towards  the  south- 
western frontier  of  the  United  States,  and  is  nearly  50  miles  east  of  the 
Sabine,  to  which  there  is  a good  road  from  this  place.  The  Spanish 
trade,  for  a considerable  distance  into  the  interior  of  the  Mexican  States, 
centres  here;  and  it  is  the  great  thorough-fare  for  people  going  to,  and 
returning  from  those  states.  The  trade  from  them  is  chiefly  in  bars  of 
silver,  and  horses  and  mules.  We  send  them  in  return,  manufactured 
goods,  groceries,  spirits  and  tobacco.  It  is  a very  old  town,  having  been 
established  an  hundred  years  ago.  There  are  many  French  and  Spanish 
houses,  and  a considerable  number  of  Spaniards  still  inhabit  it.-*- 
It  is  a village  considerably  larger  than  Alexandria.  The  population  is 
American,  French,  and  Spanish;  and  has  a sprinkling  of  Indian  with  it; 
and  there  is  a singular  mixture  of  all  these  races  visible  in  the  common 
people.  There  are  many  respectable  families  here;  and  the  opulent 
planters  have  houses  in  the  town,  for  the  sake  of  society.  The  people 
are  excessively  fond  of  balls  and  dancing.  It  has  a pleasant  society, 
and  a weekly  newspaper,  in  French  and  English.  The  relations  of  this 
place  with  the  immense  country  on  the  river  above,  and  with  the  interior 
of  the  Spanish  country,  must  necessarily  beex'ended.  It  is  at  present  a 
growing  place,  and  will  one  diy  become  the  largest  town  in  this  country, 
except  New  Orleans.  It  is  beautifully  situated  on  the  shore  of  the  river, 
and  extends  back  to  the  pine  blufis,  on  which  there  are  already  some 
handsome  houses.  It  is  at  the  head  of  steam  boat  navigation.  This 
place  has  experienced  the  successive  regimes  of  the  savages,  the  Spanish, 
French,  and  Americans,  and  has  had  its  war  dances,  fandangoes, 
French  balls,  and  American  frolics.  The  traces  of  the  ancient  grave 
yard  are  almost  erased.  Indians,  Spanish,  French,  Americans,  Catholics 
and  Protestants,  lie  here  in  mingled  confusion.  Two  or  three  leagues 
west  of  this  town  is  the  ancient  Spanish  town  of  Adayes.  We  can 
see  no  where  in  the  United  States  so  fair  a sample  of  an  ancient 
Spanish  town,  as  this.  The  houses  are  of  the  construction  of  an 
hupdred  years  ago.  A little  old  church,  with  three  or  four  fc>ell£«  some 


268 


LOUISIANA*- 


of  them  cracked,  and  some  coarse  paintings  give  the  church  an  air,  in 
keeping  with  the  town.  The  inhabitants  are  all  Spanish.  Beyond  thi 
4s  the  deep  gully,  called  the  Rio  Hondo,  which  marked  the  limits  of  the 
Spanish  claims  east  of  the  Sabine.  Half  way  between  Natchitoches  and 
the  Sabine  is  Cantonment  Jessup,  where  are  stationed  two  companies  of 
United  States’  soldiers.  The  station  is  lonely,  but  pleasant  and  healthful. 
The  water  from  the  esplanade  runs  from  its  western  slope  into  the  Sabine, 
and  from  the  other  into  Red  River. 

This  region  being  the  last  point  towards  the  Mexican  country,  it  is  not 
strange,  that  it  should  be  the  resort  of  desperate  and  wicked  adventurers, 
who  fly  from  debt,  poverty,  the  laws  and  a guilty  conscience.  Many 
lawless  characters  centre  in  it. 

On  Bayou  Boeuf  there  is  a small  village  called  Cheneyville.  The 
town  of  Monroe  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  parish  of  Washita,  and  is 
situated  on  that  river,  as  is  also  Harrisonville,  the  seat  of  justice  for 
the  parish  of  Catahoola.  Monroe  is  about  80  miles  north  of  Alexandria, 
in  the  centre  of  a rich  cotton  country,  and  has  a weekly  gazette. 

Roads  and  Canals.  We  have  already  mentioned  the  canal  Carondelet, 
which  connects  the  city  of  New  Orleans  with  lake  Ponchartrain  by  the 
bayou  St.  John.  It  is  two  miles  long  and  perfectly  straight.  Where  it  ter- 
minates at  the  north  of  the  city,  there  is  a convenient  basin,  excavated 
entirely  by  art,  and  sufficiently  large  to  hold  a great  number  of  vessels. 
It  was  dug  at  a great  expense.  Immense  labor  and  expense  were  necessary  to 
render  the  Bayou  navigable,  and  especially  its  outlet  to  the  lake,  or  what 
is  called  ‘the  pickets where  a formerly  impassable  bar  has  been  deepened, 
and  prevented  from  forming  again  by  the  waves  and  the  currents,  by  piles 
driven  into  the  sand,  and  extended  a considerable  distance  into  the  lake. 
A provision  in  the  charter  of  this  corporation  allows  them  to  extend  the 
canal  to  the  Mississippi.  It  is  proposed  to  connect  the  Mississippi,  by 
Attakapas,  by  a canal,  and  there  is  no  country  in  the  world,  where  nature 
has  done  more  towards  forming  natural  canals,  which  a little  labor  and 
expense  would  complete  by  artificial  extensions.  A great  number  of 
Bayous  only  need  to  have  the  timber  cleared  out  of  them,  to  be  navigable 
by  steam  boats. 

There  are  a corporation  and  funds  provided  for  rendering  Bayou  Boeuf 
navigable  by  steam  boats  to  Red  River.  It  would  require  no  great  arti- 
ficial labor  to  connect  this  Bayou  with  the  Teche,  and  furnish  steam  boat 
navigation  through  Opelousas.  The  country  is  so  level,  and  the  water 
courses  so  interlocked  by  nature,  that  little  more  is  necessary  for  this,  in 
most  instances,  than  the  digging  a broad  and  navigable  ditch.  At  the 
same  time,  that  transport  is  thus  rendered  easy,  the  country  is  drained, 
swamps  are  reclaimed,  and  health  is  as  much  subserved,  as  utility- 


LOUISIANA. 


269 

When  this  state  shall  once  have  imbibed  the  spirit  and  feeling  of  the 
northern  and  middle  states  upon  this  subject,  almost  every  cotton  planter 
in  the  country  will  be  able  to  ship  his  cotton  on  board  a steam  boat  directly 
from  his  gin.  The  country  being  level,  the  roads,  that  generally  run  on 
the  margins  of  the  rivers  and  bayous,  are  for  the  most  part  good.  When 
the  roads  diverge  to  any  distance  from  the  bayous  and  rivers,  they  soon 
touch  the  swampy  soil,  and  in  wet  weather  are  intolerably  deep,  muddy, 
and  heavy. 

Constitution  and  Laws . The  Constitution  varies  little  from  that  of 
the  other  western  states.  The  state  senators  are  elected  for  four  years, 
one-fourth  vacating  their  seats  annually.  They  must  possess  an  estate 
of  1,000  dollars  in  the  parish,  for  which  they  are  chosen.  The  represen- 
tatives have  a biennial  term,  and  must  possess  500  dollars  worth  of  prop- 
erty in  the  parish  to  be  eligible.  The  governor  is  chosen  for  four  years; 
and  is  ineligible  for  the  succeeding  term.  His  duties  are  the  same  as  in 
the  other  states,  and  his  salary  7,000  dollars  a year.  The  j udiciary  powers 
are  vested  in  a supreme  and  circuit  court,  together  with  a municipal  court 
called  the  parish  court.  The  salaries  are  ample.  The  elective  franchise 
belongs  to  every  free  white  men  of  twenty-one  years  and  upwards,  who 
has  had  a residence  of  six  months  in  the  parish,  and  who  has  paid  taxes. 

The  code  of  laws  adopted  by  this  state  is  not  what  is  called  the  ‘common 
law,’  which  is  the  rule  of  judicial  proceedings  in  all  the  other  states,  but 
the  civil  law , adopted  with  some  modifications  from  the  judicial  canons 
of  France  and  Spain.  So  much  of  the  common  law  is  interwoven  with 
it  as  has  been  adopted  by  express  statute,  and  the  criminal  code  is  for  the 
most  part  regulated  by  it.  All  the  laws  of  the  civil  code  purport  to  be 
written,  and  they  are  principally  selected  from  that  stupendous  mass  of 
legal  maxims  and  edicts,  called  the  Justinian  code.  Parishes  in  this 
state  nearly  correspond  to  counties  in  the  other  states;  and  the  parish 
judge  under  the  civil  code,  and  according  to  the  judicial  arrangements  of 
this  state,  is  one  of  the  most  responsible  and  important  judicial  function 
aries. 

It  would  be  rather  amusing  than  useful  to  go  into  much  detail,  respect- 
ing the  modes  of  administering  justice  under  the  French  and  Spanish 
regime.  The  commandant,  or  governor-general,  was  at  the  head  of  the 
judiciary  and  military  departments.  His  code  was  the  Roman  law,  or  that 
of  the  Indies;  and  he  represented  the  king.  The  department  of  finance 
was  administered  by  an  officer,  called  the  intendant  general.  The  office 
of  procureur  general  was  one  of  high  consequence;  and  had  an  analogy 
to  that  of  our  prosecuting  attornies.  But  of  all  the  tribunals  of  the 
Spanish  in  their  colonies,  the  most  important  and  popular  was  the  cabildo 
Teh  cabildos  awarded  the  decisions  in  common  civil  suits,  and  were  i 


LOUISIANA. 


270 

kind  of  general  conservators  of  the  peace.  Subordinate  ministers  of  justice 
to  them  were  alcaides , regidors,  syndics , end  registers.  Subordinate  to 
the  department  of  finance  were  the  contadors , treasurer,  inteventor,  auditor 
and  assessor.  Most  of  these  offices  were  venal,  or  acquired  by  purchase. 
The  processes  were  simple,  but  rigorous,  and  summary;  and  many  of 
their  maxims  of  law  were  founded  in  the  highest  wisdom  and  equity. 
From  whatever  cause  it  happened,  the  yoke  of  their  government  always 
sat  easy  on  the  neck  of  the  Anglo-Americans,  who  lived  under  it,  and 
still  speak  of  Spanish  times  as  the  golden  age.  Crimes  were  rare. — 
The  forefathers  of  the  present  race  of  Creoles  were  a mild  aid  peaceable 
race,  as  are  their  descendents  at  the  present  day.  The  ancient  inhabitants 
attached  more  importance  to  a criminal  prosecution,  and  felt  more  keenly 
the  shame  of  conviction,  than  the  inhabitants  of  the  present  day. — 
Summary  justice,  the  terror  of  the  Mexican  mines,  or  the  dungeons  of 
Havanna  had  their  share  in  producing  this  spirit  of  submissive  quietness 
and  subordination.  The  penal  1 ws  were  not  more  sanguinary,  than  those 
of  most  of  the  states  of  our  Union.  Only  four  crimes  were  declared 
capital.  Persons  sentenced  to  death,  for  the  commission  of  those  crimes, 
often  remained  long  in  the  prisons  of  Cuba,  either  through  the  lenity 
or  caution  of  the  officers  of  justice.  The  code,  under  which  Governor 
O’Reilly  administered  justice,  is  a most  singular  specimen  cf  jurispru- 
dence. Among  tire  most  frequent  crimes  against  which  it  provides, 
are  crimes  of  lust  commited  by  priests,  or  professed  religious,  and  the 
heaviest  punishments  those  annexed  to  those  crimes.  There  are  enum- 
erated some  amusing  cases,  in  which  pecuniary  mulcts  are  substituted 
for  corporeal  punishment,  in  instances  of  conviction  for  these  crimes. 

Character.  If  any  distinct  national  character  can  be  predicated  of  the 
people  of  this  state,  it  will  apply  with  the  same  shades  of  difference  to  all 
the  people  of  the  south-western  states.  We  consider  the  creoles  generally 
a mild  and  amiable  people,  with  less  energy  and  less  irascibility,  than  the 
immigrants  trom  the  other  states.  The  descendants  of  the  French  have  all 
the  peculiar  and  distinctive  marks  of  that  people  in  all  countries.  They 
possess  mild  vivacity,  and  show  rather  the  ingenuity  of  successful  imita- 
tion, than  the  boldness  and  hardihood  of  inventive  minds.  The  parents 
of  the  present  race  were  insulated  from  the  rest  of  the  world ; were 
plunged  in  the  woods;  had  no  object  of  ambition;  no  political  career 
before  them ; and  they  were  content  to  hunt,  make  voyages  in  their  canoes ; 
and  smoke  and  traffic  with  the  savages.  Many  of  them  knew  neither 
to  read,  nor  to  write.  It  is  otherwise  with  their  descendants.  They  are 
generally  born  to  fortunes;  have  a career  before  them,  and  are  early 
taught  to  perceive  the  necessity  of  being  educated;  and  the  children  of 
the  French  are  now  as  generally  instructed,  as  those  of  the  Americans 


LOUISIANA,  271 

They  are  Fond  of  shows,  the  theatre,  b 11s  and  assemblies;  are  extremely 
polite;  and  generally  more  sober  and  moral,  than  the  Americans.  The 
women  are  remarkable  for  becoming  excellent  wives  and  mothers;  and 
are  extremely  domestic  and  economical  in  their  habits.  Many  of  the 
more  weal  hy  planters  cross  the  sea  to  spend  the  summer,  and  to  edu- 
cate their  children  in  France.  The  American  planters  are  generally 
high  minded,  iracsible,  social  and  generous;  much  addicted  to  the  sports 
of  the  turf  and  the  gambling  table.  They  are  fond  of  hunting  and  keep- 
ing large  packs  of  dogs.  Having  overseers  for  the  most  part  over  their 
plantations,  they  have  much  leisure  time  on  their  hands,  and  are  too  apt 
to  become  dissipated.  There  is  a rising  spirit  of  literature,  and  a dispo- 
sition to  read  among  them,  which  will  innocently,  if  not  usefully,  and  hap- 
pily employ  many  of  the  hours,  that  used  to  be  spent  around  the  gambling 
table.  The  people  generally  are  averse  to  care,  deep  thinking,  and 
profound  impressions;  and  are  volatile,  gay,  benevolent,  easily  excited 
to  joy  or  sorrow;  and  the  common  maxim  in  a sickly  climate,  where  life 
is  precarious,  is  i a short  life  and  a merry  one?  There  is  a prevalent 
and  fatal  propensity  to  decide  quarrels  and  even  trivial  disputes  by  duels; 
and  many  wanton  and  fatal  duels  occur,  as  one  of  the  deepest  stains  upon 
the  moral  character  of  this  people.  In  many  respects  no  people  are 
more  amiable.  They  carry  the  duties  of  hospitality  to  great  lengths,  and 
extend  the  kindness  of  consanguinity  almost  as  far,  as  the  Scotch 
are  said  to  do.  The  luxury  of  the  table  is  carried  to  great  extent 
They  are  ample  in  their  supply  of  wines;  though  claret  is  generally 
drunk.  In  drinking,  the  guests  universally  raise  their  glasses,  and 
touch  them  together  instead  of  a health. 

No  state  in  the  Union  has  made  more  ample  and  munificent  appropria- 
tions, according  to  its  numbers,  for  the  advancement  of  common  school 
education.  For  this  purpose  eight  hundred  dollars  are  annually  appro- 
priated in  every  parish  in  the  state.  But  the  act  of  appropriation  is 
darkly  worded.  The  application  of  appropriations  is  indistinctly  defined; 
and  it  is  much  to  be  feared,  that  the  generous  purpose  of  the  laws  has 
not  yet  produced  the  fruits  that  were  intended  to  grow  from  it.  There 
are  in  the  state  many  professional  characters  of  high  respectability.  So- 
cial libraries  are  introduced  into  many  of  the  villages.  The  improving 
spirit  of  the  age  is  doing  much  for  them.  The  rapid  communication  by 
steam  boats  brings  the  luxuries,  comforts  and  improvements  of  society 
immediately  to  their  doors,  and  long  with  them  more  refinement,  a 
higher  order  of  thought,  and  better  tone  of  feeling.  The  influence  of  this 
course  of  things  upon  h moral  habits  of  the  p.  nters  is  very  perceptible, 
in  introducing  more  liberal  pleasures,  more  innocent  modes  of  spending 


272 


LOUISIANA. 


their  time,  and  especially,  and  above  all,  more  enlightened  humanity  and 
policy,  in  their  ways  of  managing  their  slaves. 

Religion.  The  catholic  is  the  predominant  religion  of  Louisiana.  There 
are  catholic  churches  in  all  the  considerable  villages.  But  there  is,  pro- 
bably, less  protestant  worship,  in  proportion  to  the  numbers,  than  in  any 
other  state  in  the  Union.  We  know  of  but  one  presbyterian  church  in 
the  state,*  and  that  is  in  New  Orleans.  The  baptists  have  some  societies; 
and  the  methodists  have  labored  here  with  the  same  zeal,  as  in  other 
places.  They  have  a number  of  societies,  and  some  very  respectable 
members  in  the  state.. 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY 


Greatest  length,  500  miles.  Medial  length,  300.  Breadth  240.  It 
contains  more  than  50,000  square  miles.  Between  33°  and  36°  30'  N. 
latitude;  and  13°  and  23°  W.  longitude  from  Washington.  Bounded 
North  by  Missouri  and  the  territory  beyond ; East  by  the  Mississippi, 
which  separates  it  from  Tennessee  and  Mississippi.— South  by  Louisiana 
and  the  Mexican  states.  West  by  those  states.  It  was  erected  into  a 
territorial  government  in  1819,  and  contains  25,667  whites,  and  4678 
blacks,  total  30,383.  The  limits  of  this  great  region  are  strongly  defined 
by  physical  and  geographical  lines.  These  lines  are  for  the  most  part 
large  rivers,  and  the  ocean  of  prairies  beyond. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 


Counties . 

Chief  Towns, 

Distance  from  Acropolis . 

Arkansas, 

Arkansas  Post, 

136 

Chicot, 

Villemont, 

184 

Clark, 

Clark  C.  H. 

87 

Conway, 

Harrisonburgh, 

40 

Crawford, 

Crawford  C.  H. 

136 

Crittenden, 

Greenock, 

168 

Hempstead, 

Hempstead  C.  H 

130 

Independence, 

Batesville, 

102 

Izard, 

Izard  C.  H. 

172 

La  Fayette, 

La  Fayette  C.  H. 

182 

Lawrence, 

Jackson, 

152 

Miller, 

Miller  C.  H. 

228 

Monroe, 

Jacob’s  Staff, 

84 

Phillips, 

Helena, 

124 

Pope, 

Scotia, 

81 

Pulaski, 

Little  Rock,  or  Acropolis, 

St.  Francis, 

Franklin, 

Sevier, 

Paraclifta, 

168 

TJnion, 

Corea  Fabre, 

Warm  Spring, 
Washington, 

Warm  Spring, 

60 

35 


274 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


Acropolis  is  1068  miles  from  Washington,  522  from  New  Orleans* 
and  397  from  St.  Louis. 

Face  of  the  country.  In  this  view  Arkansas  is  an  epitome  of  the 
World.  For  some  distance  up  the  waters  of  Arkansas  and  White  Rivers, 
the  country  is  an  extensive  heavily  timbered  and  deeply  inundated  swamp. 
Near  the  St.  Francis  hills  and  at  Point  Chico,  the  eastern  front  along  the 
Mississippi  is  above  the  overflow.  The  remainder  of  the  eastern  line  is 
a continued  and  monotonous  flooded  forest.  It  has  large  and  level  prairie 
plains.  It  possesses  a great  extent  of  rocky  and  sterile  ridges,  and  no 
inconsiderable  surface  covered  with  mountains.  Perhaps  no  section  of 
our  country  is  more  diversified,  in  regard  to  its  surface.  Its  northern 
line  is  intersected  by  a range  of  hills,  which  are  commonly  denominated 
‘ The  Black  Mountains ,’  a line  of  elevations  running  from  Black  River 
to  the  western  extremity  of  the  territory,  and  separating  between  the 
waters  of  White  River  and  Arkansas.  There  are  ranges  of  hills,  that 
have  the  name  of  mountains,  which  separate  the  waters  of  Arkansas 
from  those  of  Washita.  Near  the  Warm  Springs  these  ridges  spring  up 
into  elevated  peaks,  which  in  the  eye  of  a visitor  at  the  Springs,  from  the 
level  country  of  Louisiana,  have  the  aspect  of  lofty  mountains.  At  the 
south-western  extremity  of  the  territory,  thfere  are  three  parallel  ranges 
of  hills,  that  divide  the  waters  of  Red  River  from  those  of  Washita. — 
There  are,  also,  many  detached  hills  and  flint  knobs.  On  some  of  these 
is  found  the  whortleberry  ‘vaccinium’  of  the  north  in  great  perfection  and 
abundance.  These  hills  exhibit  red  cedars  and  Savines,  such  as  grow  on 
hills  of  a similar  appearance  on  the  Atlantic  shore.  In  the  central  parts 
of  the  territory,  and  intermediate  between  Arkansas  and  Washita  rivers, 
on  the  waters  of  the  latter,  is  that  singular  detached  elevation,  called 
‘Mount  Prairie.’  On  the  waters  of  White  River  and  St.  Francis,  the 
country  generally  is  rolling.  But,  take  the  extent  of  the  territory  to- 
gether, it  is  either  very  level  or  very  hilly.  In  some  places  the  hills  rise 
at  once  from  level  prairies  and  plains.  A very  considerable  portion  of 
the  country  is  broken  land,  and  unfit  for  cultivation.  A great  part  of 
the  ‘barrens’  of  this  state  are  what  their  name  imports.  There  are  four 
considerable  detached  bodies  of  good  upland.  But  it  may  be  assumed  as 
a general  fact,  that  the  high  prairies  and  timbered  lands  are  sterile.  That 
part  of  the  course  of  the  Washita,  which  runs  in  this  territory,  has 
narrow,  though  in  some  places  rich  bottoms.  Here  are  cane  brakes, 
birch,  maple,  holly,  and  muscadine  grape  vines.  The  tender  soil  on  the 
banks  is  often  torn  away  by  the  sweeping  and  rapid  course  of  the  full 
river.  Rugged  hills,  covered  with  stinted  pines  and  cedars  come  in  close 
to  the  river;  and  the  valley  is  so  deep,  and  its  boundaries  so  abrupt,  that 
the  sun  is  seen  but  a few  hours  in  the  day. 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


275 


There  is  a large  tract  of  country,  on  the  upper  waters  of  White  River, 
which  has  sometimes  been  denominated  New  Kentucky,  either  from  its 
being  fertile,  rolling,  and  abundant  in  lime  stone  springs;  or  from  its 
being  more  congenial  to  the  staple  products  of  Kentucky,  than  the  coun- 
try lower  down.  It  is  sheltered  on  the  north  by  mountains.  The  fertile 
tracts  are  vallies  embosomed  between  high  hills ; and  the  productions  of  the 
north  and  the  south  for  the  most  part  succeed  in  this  soil.  It  has  one 
great  inconvenience.  The  streams,  that  run  along  its  precipitous  hills, 
receive  the  waters  of  the  powerful  showers  that  occasionally  fall,  and  pour 
these  waters  from  an  hundred  shelving  declivities  into  the  streams. — • 
They  have  been  known  to  rise  40  feet  in  perpendicular  height,  in  a few 
hours.  The  standing  corn  and  cotton  is  submerged ; and  the  hope  of  the 
year  destroyed. 

Rive?'s.  Red  River  has  the  greater  part  of  its  whole  length  of  course 
in  this  territory.  There  is  no  other  river,  of  equal  length  and  importance 
in  our  country,  about  whose  sources  and  upper  waters  so  little  is  known 
with  exactness  and  certainty,  as  this.  It  rises  at  the  bases  of  a line  of 
spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  called  the  Caous  mountains  near  Santa  Fe. 
Blue  River  and  Fausse  Ouachitta  rise  near  the  sources  of  the  main 
river,  and  join  it  3 or  400  miles  from  its  head  spring.  There  are  a number 
of  considerable  nameless  tributary  streams  below  these  principal  branches. 
Some  of  them  have  courses  of  between  1 and  200  miles.  The  Pawnees 
are  the  principal  inhabitants  on  this  undescribed  part  of  the  river.  Below 
their  towns  and  the  limits  of  Louisiana  come  in  Kimichie,  near  which  is 
situated  the  United  States’  garrison;  Vasseux,  and  Little  River  of  the 
north;  and  on  the  other  side,  Bois  d’Arc  and  Little  River  of  the  south. 
The  south  bank  of  this  river  for  a long  distance  is  the  boundary  between 
the  United  States  and  the  province  of  Texas.  Every  traveller  has  re- 
marked, that  this  river  at  the  Kimichie,  nearly  a thousand  miles  from  its 
mouth,  is  a broader,  and  apparently  a larger  stream  than  at  the  point,  where 
it  mingles  its  waters  with  the  Washita.  The  reason  is,  that  in  the  hilly 
region  of  the  prairies  it  rolls  along  in  one  channel  a broad  river,  not  pouring 
its  surplus  waters  into  bayous  or  lakes.  After  it  enters  Louisiana,  its 
whole  course,  as  we  have  already  remarked,  is  chequered  on  either  hand 
with  numberless  bayous  and  lakes.  We  have  already  mentioned,  that 
its  waters  are  red,  turbid,  and  unpotable,  from  the  impregnation  of  salt 
mixed  with  it.  Above  the  raft,  it  is  a fine  stream  for  steam  boat  naviga- 
tion. The  country  on  the  American  side  is  diversified  with  prairies, 
woodlands,  hills  and  vallies,  with  a red  colored  soil.  This  region  is 
healthy  and  pleasant.  It  is  affirmed,  that  it  produces  good  wheat,  and 
even  productive  apple  orchards.  From  the  abundance  of  peccan  and 


276 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


other  nut  bearing  trees,  it  is  a fine  country  for  swine,  and  opens  inviting 
prospects  to  immigrants. 

Washita  rises  in  mountainous  prairies,  intermediate  between  Arkansas 
and  Red  River,  not  far  from  34°.  The  Fourche  Caddo,  Little  Missouri, 
and  Saline  rise  at  no  great  distance  from  the  sources  of  the  principal 
stream.  It  runs  through  a country,  generally  sterile  and  mountainous. 
Pine,  and  that  species  of  oak  known  in  those  regions  by  the  name  of  pin 
oak,  and  generally  denoting  an  inferior  soil,  are  the  most  common  kinds 
of  timber.  In  the  richer  and  alluvial  tracts  are  found  the  trees,  common 
to  that  latitude.  That  beautiful  kind,  called  Bois  d?Arc , is  here  found 
in  greater  abundance,  than  any  where  else  in  our  country.  In  high 
stages  of  the  water,  it  is  navigable  by  steam  boats,  within  a few  miles  of 
the  Hot  Springs,  that  is  to  say,  a distance  from  its  mouth  of  nearly  600 
miles.  An  hundred  salines,  some  of  which  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  salt,  are  found  near  the  river.  Its  bottoms  are  very  fertile,  after  it 
enters  Louisiana.  When  it  unites  itself  with  Red  River,  it  strikes  the 
eye,  as  the  larger  one  of  the  two.  It  has  a course  of  nearly  eight'hundred 
miles. 

The  principal  river  of  this  territory,  whence  it  derives  its  name,  and 
the  next  largest  western  tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  after  the  Missouri, 
is  the  Arkansas.  The  extent  of  this  mighty  stream,  which  is  said  to 
meander  a long  distance  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  is  commonly  given  at 
2,500  miles.  This  is  probably  an  extravagant  calculation.  It  is  believed 
that  its  distance  from  a point,  where  it  has  a volume  of  waters  to  entitle 
it  to  the  name  of  river,  to  its  entrance  into  the  Mississippi,  measuring  its 
curves,  is  about  2,000  miles.  In  summer  it  pours  a broad  and  deep 
stream  from  the  mountains  upon  the  arid,  bare,  and  sandy  plains.  The 
sand  and  the  dry  surrounding  atmosphere  so  drink  up  the  water,  that  in  the 
dry  season  it  may  be  crossed,  many  hundred  miles  below  the  mountains, 
without  wading  as  high  as  the  knees.  The  tributary  streams  are  far  from 
being  so  well  known,  as  to  render  them  susceptible  of  an  accurate  de- 
scription. The  chief  of  them  are  the  Verdigris,  Negracka,  Canadian 
Fork,  Grand  River,  Six  Bull,  &c.  Some  of  them  are  remarkable  for 
being  impregnated  with  salt  to  such  a degree,  that  we  have  tasted  the 
waters  of  the  main  river  so  salt,  as  to  be  unpotable.  The  whole  alluvial 
earth  along  the  banks  is  so  strongly  impregnated  with  salt,  that  the 
cattle  sometimes  kill  themselves  by  eating  it.  For  a distance  of  many 
hundred  miles  from  its  mouth,  it  receives  no  tributaries  of  any  length  of 
course,  owing  to  the  configuration  of  the  country  through  which  it  passes, 
and  to  the  vicinity  of  Red  River  and  Washita  on  one  side,  and  the  Yellow 
Stone.,  Kansas,  and  Osage  on  the  other.  When  it  has  arrived  within  400 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


277 


miles  of  the  Mississippi,  it  begins  to  assume  the  character  of  Red  River, 
in  the  numbers  of  its  bayous  and  lakes.  The  belt  of  high  land,  between 
the  river  and  the  cypress  swamps,  is  by  no  means  so  wide,  as  that  on  the 
other  river.  The  alluvial  soil  is  of  the  same  color  and  qualities,  though 
it  is  not  generally  so  fertile.  It  has  a broader  channel,  and  generally  a 
narrower  valley.  Wehelieve  that  it  does  not  carry  so  much  water;  and 
the  rapidity  of  its  ordinary  current  is  less.  When  it  is  full,  its  waters 
have  a still  deeper  color.  Its  curves,  that  is  to  say,  its  points  and  bends 
are  broader  and  deeper.  It  surpasses  the  Mississippi,  or  any  river  of  the 
west,  in  the  perfect  regularity  of  these,  and  in  the  uniformity  and  beauty 
of  the  young  cotton  wood  groves  that  spring  up  on  the  ^convex  sand  bars. 
In  other  respects,  it  has  a surprising  resemblance  to  Red  River.  Arkansas 
has  decidedly  the  advantage  in  the  extent  of  its  navigation.  In  the  spring 
floods,  steam  boats  can  ascend  it  nearly  to  the  mountains.  The  first 
30  or  40  miles  of  its  course  is  through  a heavy,  inundated  forest,  with 
very  little  land  sufficiently  above  the  floods,  to  admit  of  cultivation. 
Forty  or  fifty  miles  of  the  course  of  the  river  above  the  Post,  Bluffs, 
crowned  with  pine,  come  in  to  the  river.  Between  that  distance  and  the 
Post,  only  a narrow  belt  along  the  river  is  above  the  overflow;  and  even 
through  this  belt  the  river  has  torn  great  numbers  of  crevasses , through 
which  in  high  floods  its  waters  escape  into  the  swamps.  Directly  beyond 
these  belts  are  gum  trees,  and  other  vegetation  denoting  swampy  soil. 
Beyond  these  are  vast  cypress  swamps ; and  in  all  its  course  from  the 
bluffs  to  the  mouth,  like  Red  river,  it  has  its  net-work  checquering  of 
bayous  and  lakes.  The  lakes,  on  the  subsidence  of  the  river,  are  covered, 
with  the  vast  leaves  of  the  Nymphea  Nelumbo.  The  Bayous,  when  filled 
with  the  river  waters  have  the  same  curves  as  the  river;  and  while  the 
river  is  full,  the  same  color;  and,  until  we  observe  their  want  of  current, 
might  easily  be,  as  they  have  a thousand  times  been,  mistaken  for  the 
river  itself. 

White  River  has  its  sources  in  the  ridge  called  the  Black  Moun- 
tains, which  divides  its  waters  from  those  of  the  Arkansas.  Its  northern 
and  eastern  branches  almost  interlock  with  the  western  ones  of  the  Osage 
Maramec,  and  St.  Francis.  The  western  branches  rise,  and  run  a long 
distance  in  Missouri.  It  enters  this  territory,  at  its  north-western  angle, 
and  receives  the  very  considerable  tribute  of  Black  River,  Thomas’  Fork, 
Red  River,  Spring  Biver  Strawberry,  and  other  streams,  which  run  through 
a pleasant,  healthy  and  fertile  country,  abounding  in  pure  springs  and 
brooks,  and  furnishing  great  numbers  of  mill  seats.  Spring  River  is  re- 
remarkable  for  being  formed,  as  its  name  imports,  by  the  junction  of  nu- 
merous large  springs,  that  gush  out  of  the  ground  near  each  other,  which 
form  a stream,  at  once  wide,  and  boatable  abounding  in  fish,  and,  from 
its  never  freezing  near  these  springs  in  the  winter,  being  visited  by 


278 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


great  numbers  of  water  fowls.  Below  the  junction  of  the  western  branch, 
the  main  river  receives  Red  River  Eaa  Cachee,Big  Creek,  and  some  others. 
It  is  called  in  its  Indian  appellation  by  a name  denoting  White  river, 
from  the  transparency  of  its  waters,  compared  with  those  of  Arkansas 
and  the  Mississippi.  It  is  uncommonly  circuitous  in  its  course,  winding 
three  or  four  hundred  miles  to  make  one  hundred  in  direct  advance  to- 
wards its  debouche.  It  meets  the  inundation  of  the  Mississippi  a great 
distance  from  it  month,  and  makes  the  remainder  of  its  course  through  a 
deep  swamp. 

About  seven  miles  Rom  its  mouth  is  -a  lateral  bayou,  apparently  of  the 
width  of  the  river  itself,  which  runs  out  of  the  river  almost  at  right  angles 
to  its  course.  This  bayou  flows,  through  a deep  and  inundated  forest 
six  or  seven  miles,  and  unites  with  the  Arkansas.  It  is  not  boatable  in 
the  latter  part  of  the  summer;  but  in  moderate  stages  of  the  water  is  uni- 
versally used  by  boats  descending  the  Mississippi,  and  intending  to 
ascend  the  Arkansas,  in  order  to  reach  that  stream.  It  strikes  that 
river  thirty  miles  above  its  mouth.  In  this  bayou  the  current  sets 
from  one  river  to  the  other,  according  as  the  flood  of  one  prepon- 
derates over  that  of  the  other.  It  is  three  hundred  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth.  Its  reputed  boatable  length  is  1,200  miles;  and  its  course  is  so 
sinuous,  that  in  this  length  it  only  makes  five  hundred  miles  of  direct 
distance.  Its  upper  and  middle  courses  are  through  a delightful  country 
of  hills  and  vallies,  rich  alluvions  and  pure  mountain  streams,  abound- 
ing in  lime-stone,  gypsum,  stone-coal,  and  iron  ore.  The  soil  in  many 
places  compares  with  the  best  parts  of  the  western  country.  From  its 
abundant  timber,  its  useful  fossils  and  earths,  its  mill  streams,  salubrity 
and  facilities  for  a manufacturing  region,  it  will  probably,  one  day  be- 
come the  seat  of  the  manufacturers  of  this  country.  Its  sheltering  line 
of  mountains  on  the  north,  and  its  frequent  and  precipitous  hills  secure 
it  from  the  influence  of  the  sharper  air  of  the  Missouri  country  above ; 
and  cause,  that  in  many  places,  on  the  bottoms  of  this  river  and  its  tribu- 
taries, cotton  is  successfully  cultivated,  as  a crop. 

St.  Francis  rises  in  Missouri.  It  is  formed  from  two  main  branches, 
which  form  their  junction  just  within  the  northern  limits  of  this  territory. 
The  eastern  branch  has  its  source  below  Cape  Girardeau,  and  but  a few 
yards  from  the  bluff  banks  of  the  Mississippi.  It  receives  the  White  Water 
from  the  German  settlement,  in  the  county  of  Cape  Girardeau  in 
Missouri,  and  creeps  for  a great  distance  through  what  is  called 
the  £ Big  Swamp ’ between  Cape  Girardeau  and  the  mouth  of  the  St, 
Francis.  In  this  course  it  passes  within  ten  or  twelve  miles  from 
New  Madrid.  From  this  point  to  the  mouth  of  the  river,  a distance  of 
about  300  miles,  it  used  to  be  boatable  by  large  keel  boats;  and,  as  its 
current  was  much  gentler  than  that  of  the  Mississippi,  which,  in  this  dis- 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY* 


279 


tance,  is  peculiarly  swift  and  difficult  of  ascent,  boats  for  New  Madrid 
used  to  enter  the  mcuth  of  the  St.  Francis,  and  work  up  that  river  to  a 
portage,  about  twelve  miles  back  of  that  place,  and  thence  cart  their 
goods  to  that  town.  The  great  earthquake  of  1811  and ’12  completely 
obstructed  the  channel,  and  inundated  its  waters  over  the  banks  to 
find-their  way  in  wide  plashes  through  the  swamp.  A vast  number  of 
lakes  and  irreclaimable  sunken  swamps,  along  the  valley  of  this  river, 
were  created  at  the  same  time.  It  is  navigable  in  high  waters  nearly 
200  miles.  There  is  a respectable  settlement  about  seventy  miles  up  this 
river.— Its  waters,  notwithstanding  it  passes  through  such  an  extensive 
country  of  swamps,  are  remarkably  pellucid.  It  abounds  in  fine  fish; 
and  we  have  no  where,  except  in  Louisiana,  seen  finer  sport  for  the  an- 
gler, than  in  the  St.  Francis.  In  the  high  lands  on  the  banks  of  this  river, 
there  are  many  delightful  and  healthy  positions  for  farmers,  who  desire 
such  a medial  climate.  It  has  the  disadvantage  of  being  intermediate 
between  the  wheat  and  the  cotton  country;  but  it  is  believed,  that  it 
would  be  an  admirable  country  for  the  vine,  and  the  silk  worm.  It  is 
remarkable,  that  this  river  is  the  northern  limit  of  the  muscadine  grape 
in  its  natural  state.  There  are  a number  of  inconsiderable  tributaries  to 
the  Arkansas,  and  streams,  that  have  short  courses,  and  empty  into  the 
Mississippi  on  the  Arkansas  shore,  that  are  not  here  enumerated. 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  territory  of  Arkansas  is  the  northern  limit 
of  the  cotton  growing  country.  The  rich  lands  on  the  Arkansas  bring 
cotton  of  the  same  staple  and  luxuriance,  as  those  of  Red  River;  but? 
having  a season  somewhat  shorter,  it  can  not  ripen  so  well.  Neverthe- 
less the  planters  assert,  that  even  here  they  can  raise  more  than  their 
hands  can  ‘ pick  out,’  as  the  phrase  is;  consequently  they  affirm,  that 
they  lose  nothing  by  the  shortness  of  their  season.  We  have  seen  as  large 
cotton  growing  at  Bairdstown  on  the  Arkansas,  as  we  have  seen  in  any 
other  place.  Cotton  becomes  an  uncertain  crop  north  of  the  river  St. 
Francis.  As  we  ascend  the  Arkansas  towards  the  high  table  prairies, 
the  temperature  diminishes  more  rapidly,  than  would  be  indicated  by  the 
latitude;  and  cotton  ceases  to  be  a sure  crop  beyond  34°  in  that  direc- 
tion. It  is  at  present  the  staple  article  of  cultivation.  The  rich  lands 
bring  fine  maize,  sweet  potatoes,  and  the  vegetables  generally  of  Missis- 
sippi and  Louisiana.  In  the  high  country  above  34°  wheat  does  well. 
Rye  and  Barley  will  thrive  almost  in  any  parts  of  the  country.  Mulber- 
ry abounds;  and  on  the  bases  of  the  precipitous  hills  of  White  river,  we 
would  suppose,  would  be  the  happiest  soy. . and  climate  for  the  vine. 
Muscadine  and  pine  wood^s  grapes  abound;  * as  do  pawpaws  and  per- 
simons.  Figs  are  raised,  but  with  difficulty  ; and  the  tree  is  often  killed 
to  the  ground  by  the  frost.  Peaches  are  raised  in  great  excellence  and 


280 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


abundance.  Apple  orchards  do  well  at  Mount  Prairie,  and  in  the  open 
and  high  lands  above  Peccan  Point  on  Red  River;  and  no  doubt,  will 
thrive  in  all  the  higher  and  more  northern  regions  of  this  territory.  In  the 
lower  and  more  settled  parts  of  it  they  have  no  where  succeeded  well. 
Chickasaw  and  prairie  plumbs  grow  in  abundance;  and  the  woods  and 
prairies  abound  in  native  fruits  and  berries. 

The  soil  is  of  all  qualities  from  the  best  to  the  most  sterile.  The  set- 
tlement of  Point  Chico,  on  the  Mississippi,  has  a soil  of  the  best  quality ; 
and  is  noted  for  the  productiveness  of  its  cotton  plantations.  The  bot- 
toms of  the  Arkansas  are  not  generally  as  rich,  as  those  of  Red  river. 
The  belt  of  cultivated  land  below  the  Post  of  Arkansas,  called  ‘the  coast,’ 
does,  indeed,  somewhat  resemble  the  delightful  country  so  called  above 
New  Orleans  in  appearance.  The  resemblance  ceases  here.  It  has  a 
soil  of  but  moderate  richness;  and  needs  manuring  to  produce  large  cot- 
ton, or  Indian  corn.  To  one  emerging  from  the  inundated  and  mephitic 
swamps  below,  this  line  of  open,  contiguous  plantations,  dotted  with 
beautiful  clumps  of  the  fine  trees  of  this  climate,  and  French  habitations, 
which  generally  have  a very  picturesque  appearance,  and  this  tract,  called 
1 the  coast, ’ has  a charming  appearance.  There  is  a great  extent  of  cot- 
ton lands  of  the  first  quality  in  the  country  along  the  river,  above  the 
Post,  in  the  ‘ Quawpaw  purchase.’  The  country  five  or  six  hundred  miles 
up  the  Arkansas,  where  the  American  garrison  used  to  be,  and  that, 
where  it  now  is,  and  the  country,  where  the  Arkansas  mission  is  settled, 
have  large  prairies  interspered  with  forest  bottoms,  and  great  extents  of 
excellent  soil.  There  is  much  fine  country  in  this  territory  above  Peccan 
Point  on  Red  river.  Mount  Prairie,  which  rises,  like  a prodigious  Indian 
mound,  from  the  subjacent  plains,  may  be  reckoned  among  the  striking 
spectacles  of  the  country.  It  is  tenor  twelve  miles  in  diameter;  and  is 
situated  on  the  waters  of  the  Washita.  It  has  a soil  of  great  fertility,  and 
of  the  blackness  of  ink;  rather  exposed,  however,  to  ‘bake,’  as  the 
phrase  is,  in  the  hot  and  dry  weather.  They  obtain  water  from  wells, 
which  require  to  be  dug  of  very  great  depth.  In  the  whole  depth 
vast  quantities  of  sea  shells  appear.  In  a state  of  pulverization  they  are 
mixed  with  the  soil,  communicating  a mawkish  and  unpleasant  taste  to 
the  water,  and  very  great  fertility  to  the  soil.  On  White  River  are  some 
of  the  finest  lands  and  the  healthiest  sites  for  planters  in  this  country. 
In  short  this  territory  possesses  great  bodies  of  the  best  soil.  There  are 
vast  tracts,  too  of  precipitous  knobs,  sterile  ridges,  sandy  or  muddy  prai- 
ries, and  miserable  barrens.  The  country  on  the  Mississippi,  between 
White  River  and  St.  Francis,  is  in  many  places  above  the  overflow,  and  of 
the  highest  fertility.  Wappanocka  bottom,  opposite  Memphis,  is  an  un- 
commonly high,  rich  and  extensive  bottom.  The  soil  of  the  St  Francis 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


281 


is  very  fertile;  and  is  covered  with  a heavy  growth  of  beech,  generally  de- 
noting a rich  soil;  but  the  hills  are  so  precipitous,  and  exposed  to  wash 
as  hardly  to  be  susceptible  of  cultivation.  On  the  whole,  this  territory 
has  a sufficiency  of  excellent  lands,  to  become  a rich  and  populous  state. 
In  its  eastern  front,  and  near  the  Mississippi  and  the  Arkansas,  it  is  ex- 
posed to  excessive  annoyance  from  its  myriads  of  musquitos. 

Climate  and  Salubrity.  This  climate  is  a compound  of  that  of 
Missouri  and  Louisiana.  Until  we  advance  200  miles  west  of  the 
Mississippi,  in  its  humidity  it  more  nearly  resembles  the  latter.  The 
season,  in  point  of  the  forwardness  of  vegetation  in  the  spring,  is5 
also,  much  more  like  that  of  Louisiana.  The  season  of  planting  is  three 
weeks  later,  than  on  the  coast  above  New  Orleans ; arid  is  more  than 
that  in  advance  of  the  climate  of  Missouri. — -The  distribution  of  rain  is 
extremely  unequal.  We  witnessed  drenching  rains  and  thunder  every 
day,  for  thirty-six  days  in  succession.  At  other  times,  it  is  remarkable, 
for  having  long  droughts.  Planting  of  corn  commences  by  the  middle 
of  March,  and  cotton  by  the  firs  t of  April.  By  this  time  the  forests  of 
Arkansas  are  in  full  leaf;  and  the  shores  of  no  river  show  a deeper  tangle 
of  vines  near  the  soil,  and  of  noble  forest  trees  above. 

The  shores  of  Arkansas,  as  far  up  as  Little  Rock,  are  decidedly  un- 
healthy. Great  tracts  on  all  sides  are  covered  with  sleeping  lakes  and 
stagnant  bayous.  The  country  is  a dead  level.  The  falling  waters  of 
the  rains  cannot  be  drained  off.  In  the  commencement  of  summer  they 
are  exposed  to  the  intense  ardors  of  the  sun.  Sickness  is  the  natural  re- 
sult. On  the  vast  prairie,  which  commences  just  above  the  Post,  and 
extends  ninety  miles  up  the  country,  it  is  more  healthy ; and  there  is  less 
annoyance  from  the  musquitos.  This  long  sweep  of  country  is  tho- 
roughly ventillated.  But  the  air,  in  the  timbered  bottoms,  is  close,  and 
unelastic;  and  the  musquitos  are  excessively  troublesome.  There  is 
but  too  often  an  abundant  visitation  of  bilious  and  remittent  fevers  in  the 
latter  part  of  summer  and  the  first  of  autumn.  Farther  up  the  country 
and  on  the  open  prairies,  it  is  as  healthy,  as  in  any  other  country  in  the 
same  climate.  It  is  a very  absurd  idea,  that  a country  of  the  extensive- 
ness of  this  should  all  be  alike  sickly.  In  this  territory  there  are  many 
positions,  but  a few  miles  apart,  one  of  which  may  be  as  sickly  as  the 
shores  of  Surinam,  and  the  other  as  healthy  as  any  country  in  America. 

Settlements.  The  chief  settlements  on  this  river  are  at  Point  Chico, 
on  the  banks  of  the  Arkansas,  at  Mount  Prairie,  at  Peccan  Point,  on  Red 
River,  and  at  Mulberry,  600  miles  up  the  river,  between  the  mouth  of  White 
and  St.  Francis  rivers;  and  the  White  River,  and  St.  Francis  settlements. 
They  are,  as  most  of  the  settlements  in  the  southern  countries  are,  from 

36 


282 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY* 


the  configuration  of  the  country,  in  isolated  and  detached  situations^ 
generally  with  great  extents  of  unsettled  country  intervening. 

Chief  Towns.  The  Post  is  a small  village  on  the  north  bank  of  the 
Arkansas,  about  fifty  miles  above  its  mouth.  The  position  is  a kind  of 
bluff  bottom,  on  a fine  bend  of  the  river.  The  soil  is  poor,  but  the  situ- 
ation pleasant.  The  overflow  of  White  River  approaches  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  Arkansas;  and  the  swamps  of  both  rivers  can  be 
seen  from  the  court  house  below  the  village  at  the  same  time.  Directly 
above  the  village  a bayou  is  occasionally  inundated.  The  descent  of  the 
bench,  on  which  the  village  is  situated,  to  this  bayou,  is  marked  with 
some  of  those  striking  red  pillars  of  earth,  where  the  lighter  soil  has  been 
washed  away,  and  left  these  singular  columns  of  clay  standing.  The 
same  appearances  are  seen  elsewhere  on  the  Arkansas.  The  inhabitants 
of  the  Post  and  its  vicinity  are  chiefly  the  remains,  or  the  descendants,  of 
the  first  settlers;  and  they  are  for  the  most  part  of  French  extract.  The 
population  cannot  exceed  six  hundred  in  the  village  and  the  country 
round  it.  Acropolis  the  seat  of  government  is  at  a point  about  300 
miles  by  the  course  of  the  rive^  and  little  more  than  half  the  distance 
by  land  above  the  Post.  It  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river,  on  a very 
high  stone  bluff, ludicrously  called  Little  Rock,  from  the  prodigious  masses 
of  stone  about  it.  The  situation  is  healthy,  and  pleasant,  and  the  circum- 
stance of  its  being  the  metropolis,  has  created  a considerable  village. 
There  are  a number  of  incipient  villages,  in  the  places  where  the  county 
courts  are  held,  in  other  parts  of  the  territory ; but  none,  that  merit  the  name 
of  town,  if  we  except  the  growing  village  .above  the  mouth  of  White  River. 
From  this  place  outfits  are  made  by  boats,  preparing  to  ascend  White  River 
and  the  Arkansas.  It  is  also  noted  as  a steam  boat  landing. 

Among  the  curiosities  of  this  country  may  be  mentioned  the  vast 
masses  of  sea  shells,  that  are  found  dispersed  over  different  tracts 
of  it.  They  are  generally  found  in  points  'remote  from  lime-stone; 
and  answer  a valuable  purpose  to  the  inhabitants,  who  collect  and 
burn  them  for  lime.  Far  above  the  political  limits  of  the  territory, 
and  towards  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas,  is  the  sublime  elevation, 
which  we  hope  will  always  retain  the  name  of  Pike’s  mountain.  The 
prairies  are  bounded  in  that  direction  by  the  stupendous  ridges  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains.  There  are  very  considerable  mountains  near  the 
Warm  Springs.  These  springs  are  among  the  most  interesting  curiosi- 
ties of  the  country.  They  are  in  great  numbers.  One  of  them  emits  a 
vast  quantity  of  water.  The  ordinary  temperature  is  that  of  boiling  water. 
When  the  season  is  dry,  and  the  volume  of  water  emitted  somewhat  dimi- 
nished, the  temperature  of  the  water  increases.  The  waters  are  remarka- 
bly limpid,  and  pure;  and  are  used  by  the  people, who  resort  therefor  health, 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


283 


for  culinary  purposes.  They  have  been  analyzed,  and  exhibit  no  mineral 
properties  beyond  common  spring  water.  Their  efficacy  then,  for  they 
are  undoubtedly  efficacious  to  many  invalids,  that  resort  there,  results 
from  the  shade  of  adjacent  mountains,  and  from  the  cool  and  oxygenated 
mountain  breeze;  the  conveniences  of  warm  and  tepid  bathing;  the  novel- 
ty of  fresh  mountain  scenery;  and  the  necessity  of  temperance  imposed 
by  the  poverty  of  the  country,  and  the  difficulty  of  procuring  supplies. 
The  cases,  in  which  the  waters  are  supposed  to  be  efficacious,  are  those 
of  rheumatic  affections,  general  debility,  dispepsia,  and  cutaneous  com- 
plaints. The  common  supposition,  that  they  are  injurious  in  pulmonary 
complaints,  seems  to  be  wholly  unfounded.  It  is  a great  and  increasing 
resort  for  invalids  from  the  lower  country,  Arkansas,  and  the  different  ad- 
joining regions.  During  the  spring  floods  of  the  Washita,  a steam  boat 
can  approach  within  thirty  miles  of  them.  At  no  great  distance  from 
them  is  a strong  sulphur  spring,  remarkable  for  its  coldness.  In  the  wild 
and  mountain  scenery  of  this  lonely  region,  there  is  much  grandeur  and 
novelty,  to  fix  the  curiosity  of  the  lover  of  nature.  There  are  no  houses  of 
accommodation,  but  temporary  sheds.  The  visitants  spend  their  time  in 
walking,  hunting,  and  playing  cards.  Two  miles  from  the  springs  is  the 
famous  quarry  of  stone,  called  oil-stone.  Stones  from  this  quarry  are 
already  extensively  known,  and  used  in  the  western  country,  for  the  same 
purposes  as  tbe  Turkey  oil  stones.  The  point  of  possession  of  this  exten- 
sive and  valuable  quarry  is  a matter  in  litigation. 

The  mountains  in  the  vicinity  of  these  springs  are  probably  volcanic. 
The  inhabitants  affirm,  that  they  have  heard  noises  in  the  neighborhood  of 
the  mountains,  like  those  which  attend  volcanic  eruptions.  There  are 
many  volcanic  appearances  about  them;  though  none  of  recent  eruption. 
Messrs  Hunter  and  Dunbar  explored  this  country,  and  published  a detail- 
ed account  of  its  geological  formation.  It  exhibits  many  mineral  appear- 
ances; though  no  ores,  but  those  of  iron,  have  been  detected. 

Indians.  The  Quawpaws,  intermixed  with  many  fugitive  Chactaw 
Indians,  reside  on  the  Arkansas  not  far  above  the  Post.  That  portion  of 
the  Cherokee  nation,  which  has  immigrated  west  of  the  Mississippi,  has 
its  chief  settlements  on  the  Arkansas.  Beyond  this  territory  on  White 
Diver  are  congregated  the  Shawnese  and  Delawares,  that  have  emigrated 
from  Ohio  and  Missouri.  Above  the  Cherokees,  on  the  Arkansas,  are 
the  Osages;  and  still  higher  the  Pawnees.  In  the  vast  waste  of  prairies 
that  interposes  between  this  territory  and  the  Docky  Mountains,  roam 
different  tribes  of  Indians,  among  which  are  often  seen  the  Indians  from 
the  Mexican  country,  who  come  here  to  hunt  the  buffalo. 

History.  This  territory  was  erected  out  of  that  of  Missouri,  in  1819; 
and  soon  passed  into  what  is  called  the  second  grade  of  territorial  gov- 


284 


ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


ernment.  Many  of  the  recent  settlers  were  turbulent  and  unmanageable 
spirits. — There  seems  to  be  a strong  tendency  in  American  laws  and  in™ 
stitutions  to  create  docility  and  habits  of  peace.  The  laws  are  adminis- 
tered among  these  people,  strangers  to  the  country  and  to  each  other,, 
as  quietly  in  most  instances,  as  they  are  in  the  more  populous  and  regu- 
lated regions.  The  inhabitants  about  the  Post  were  settlers  of  the  country 
in  Spanish  times.  Many  anecdotes  of  great  interest  might  be  given  of  in- 
dividuals of  Spanish  and  Indians,  under  the  Spanish  regime.  But  they 
are  necessarily  excluded  from  the  limits  of  this  work.  The  Spanish  and 
French  at  early  dates  in  the  history  of  this  country,  had  establishments  on 
the  Arkansas;  and  they  had  a settlement  at  the  Post,  more  than  a half 
a century  ago.  No  settlement  from  its  commencement  down  to  this  day 
has  been  marked  with  fewer  incidents.- 


MISSOURI, 


Length,  270.— -Breadth,  220  miles.  It  contains  60,000  square  miles, 
and  38,000,000  acres.  Between  36°,  and  40°  30' N.  latitude,  and  be- 
tween 11°  17'  and  17°  30'  W.  longitude.  Bounded  north  and  west  by 
the  Missouri  Territory;  east  and  north-east  by  the  Mississippi,  which 
separates  it  from  Illinois.  South-east  by  the  Mississippi,  which  separates 
it  from  Kentucky  and  Tennessee.  South  by  Arkansas  Territory. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 

Counties . County  Towns . Distances  from  Jefferson 


Boone, 

Columbia, 

56 

Callaway, 

Fulton, 

32 

Cape  Girardeau, 

Jackson, 

208 

Chariton, 

Chariton, 

79 

Clay, 

Liberty, 

190 

Cole, 

Jefferson  City, 

Cooper, 

Booneville, 

51 

Crawford, 

Little  Piney, 

97 

Franklin, 

Union, 

79 

Gasconade, 

Gasconade, 

47 

Howard, 

Fayette, 

65 

Jackson, 

Independence, 

177 

Jefferson, 

Herculaneum, 

164 

La  Fayette, 

Lexington, 

138 

Lincoln, 

Troy, 

97 

Madison, 

Fredericktown, 

170 

Marion, 

Palmyra, 

190 

Montgomery, 

Lewistown, 

67 

New  Madrid, 

New  Madrid, 

278 

Perry, 

Perryville> 

187 

286 


MISSOURI, 


Pike, 

Bowling  Green, 

132 

Ralls, 

New  London, 

167 

Randolph, 

Randolph, 

96 

Ray, 

Richmond, 

149 

St.  Charles, 

St.  Charles, 

123 

St.  Francis, 

Farmington, 

152 

St.  Genevieve, 

St.  Genevieve, 

168 

St.  Louis, 

St.  Louis, 

134 

Saline, 

Walnut  Farm, 

85 

Scott, 

Benton, 

236 

Washington, 

Potosi, 

127 

Wayne, 

Greenville, 

110 

The  census  for  1830  gives  its  population,  Whites,  112,065.  Slaves, 
24,820.  Total,  137,427. 

Face  of  the  country.  A large  extent  of  this  great  state,  in  its  south- 
east angle,  commencing  above  New  Madrid,  and  extending  down  the 
great  swamp,  and  through  the  alluvial  region,  a considerable  distance 
hack  from  the  Mississippi,  is  low,  swampy,  full  of  lake's,  and  in 
many  places  subject  to  be  inundated.  Beyond  that  region,  which  is 
aenerally  marked  by  a bold  line  of  rolling  and  fertile  high  lands,  the 
country  gradually  swells  into  high  flint  knobs,  still  rising  beyond  that 
region  to  the  mountainous  country  of  the  lead  mines.  This  country 
extends  to  the  Osage  and  its  tributaries.  Beyond  this,  the  country  is 
broken  and  hilly;  until  we  open  upon  the  boundless  belt  of  prairies,  which 
spreads  beyond  the  western  limits  of  this  state.  The  best  portion,  and 
the  most  inhabited  parts  of  the  state  are  between  the  Missouri  and  the 
Mississippi.  This  vast  tract  is  no  where  mountainous.  It  contains  great 
tracts  of  alluvial  and  high  prairies.  It  is  for  the  most  part  a surface, 
delightfully  rolling  and  variegated.  There  is  no  part  of  the  globe,  in  a 
state  of  nature,  where  greater  extents  of  country  can  be  traversed  more 
easily,  and  in  any  direction  by  carriages  of  any  description. 

Soil.  One  specific  difference  between  the  soil  of  this  country  and 
that  bordering  on  the  Ohio,  is,  that  the  land  here  contains  a greater  pro- 
portion of  sand,  is  more  loamy  and  friable,  and"  the  soil  not  so  stiff.  There 
are  tracts  all  over  this  country,  where  we  find  the  clayey  soils  of  Ohio 
and  Kentucky.  But  they  are  small.  The  roads  generally  run  where 
the  falling  rain  and  snow  are  so  readily  absorbed,  even  in  the  winter,  that 
the  people  are  not  troubled  with  the  deep  and  almost  impassable  roads, 
that  we  find  in  those  states.  The  rich  uplands  are  of  a darkish  gray  color ; 
with  the  exception  of  the  great  tract  about  the  lead  mines,  where  the 
soil  of  decomposed  pyrite  is  reddish,  and  of  a color  brighter  than  Spanish 
brown.  The  poorer  uplands  are  generally  covered  with  white  oak,  and 


MISSOURI. 


287 


that  small  species  of  oak  denominated  pin  oak,  It  is  usually  a stiffer 
and  more  clayey  soil  than  the  other;  and  of  a light  yellow  color.  There 
are  two  extensive  tracts  of  that  fine  kind  of  timbered  upland  alluvion , 
which  constitutes  the  finest  central  portions  of  Kentucky.  The  one  is 
15  or  20  miles  in  extent.  It  is  south-west  of  the  mine  country,  and  is 
called  Bellevue  Settlement,  The  other  tract  is  much  larger,  and  is  called 
Boone's  Lick  Settlement.  There  are  smaller  extents  of  this  kind  of  land 
spread  over  all  the  state.  In  a state  of  nature  it  strikes  the  eye  delight- 
fully. The  surface  rolls  gently  and  almost  imperceptibly.  It  has  the 
same  trees  and  shrubs  and  the  grand  vegetation,  that  designate  the  rich 
alluvions;  and  at  the  same  time  it  has  the  diversified  surface,  and  the 
associated  ideas  of  health,  and  springs  of  water,  that  are  naturally  con- 
nected with  the  notion  of  uplands.  These  lands  are  timbered  with  the 
same  trees  as  the  alluvions.  Like  those,  they  are  surmounted  with  grape 
vines,  and  free  from  under  brush.  The  pawpaw,  persimon,  and  wild 
cherry  tree,  all  denoting  rich  soils,  abound  in  these  regions;  and  are 
nearly  as  fertile  as  the  bottoms  of  the  Missouri  or  the  Mississippi. 

The  prairies,  are  generally  level  and  of  an  intermediate  character  be- 
tween the  richer  and  poorer  uplands.  The  alluvial  prairies  are  univer- 
sally rich,  and  nearly  as  fertile  as  the  bottoms.  Some  tracts  of  the  upland 
prairies  are  rich.  There  are  scarcely  any  lands  in  this  state  sufficiently 
level  for  cultivation,  that  have  not  fertility  enough  to  bring  good  crops  of 
corn  without  manure;  and  in  many  instances  the  poorer  lands  are  better 
for  wheat,  than  the  richer.  The  bottoms  of  all  the  water  courses  are  rich. 
There  is  a specific  difference  in  the  soils  of  the  two  wide  alluvial  belts, 
along  the  two  great  rivers  of  this  state.  The  bottoms  of  the  Missouri 
are  generally  loamy,  with  a large  proportion  of  sand.  But  even  where 
the  proportion  of  sand  seems  in  excess,  the  soil  is  of  the  richest  character; 
and  at  first  more  productive  than  that  of  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Inter- 
mixed with  the  glaize,  or  earth  of  a greasy  and  adhesive  feeling,  is  a 
(Considerable  proportion  of  marie  or  dissolved  lime,  which  communicates 
to  the  soil,  which  is  compounded  in  no  small  share,  with  dissolved  vegetable 
matter,  an  astonishing  fertility. 

The  lands  of  the  Upper  Mississippi  bottoms  are  blacker,  more  clayey, 
less  marly  and  sandy,  and  if  not  so  immediately  fertile,  are  more  inex- 
haustible; and  better  fitted  to  sustain  the  high  heats  and  the  drought  of 
summer.  The  bottoms  of  the  smaller  streams  partake  of  the  character  of 
the  region  through  which  they  flow;  and  are  composed  of  more  or  less 
sand,  marl,  or  clay,  according  as  the  hills,  acclivities,  or  soils,  along 
which  they  flow,  have  more  or  less  of  these  ingredients.  On  the  whole, 
the  good  lands  of  this  country  generally  have  a great  degree  of  fertility. 
The  vegetable  mould  is  friable,  tender  and  deep;  and  in  many  instances 


288 


MISSOURI. 


the  soils  thrown  from  the  bottom  of  the  deepest  wells,  appear  no  less  fer- 
tile, than  that  on  the  surface  The  rank  and  abundant  vegetation  every 
where  indicates  the  prolific  character  of  nature  working  at  the  root.  On 
the  richer  prairies  and  bottoms,  tall  and  coarse  grass,  and  weeds  resem* 
bling  hemp,  rise  up  of  such  a thickness,  size,  and  height,  as  almost  to  make 
it  impracticable  to  travel  on  horseback.  The  leaves  of  the  trees  and 
shrubs,  by  their  unusual  size  and  verdure,  every  where  indicate  the  prolific 
vigor  and  power  of  nature.  The  Upper  Mississippi  is  skirted  with  a 
prairie,  commencing  ten  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  ex- 
tending along  the  west  bank  of  the  river  60  or  70  miles,  with  an  average 
width  of  between  four  and  five  miles.  The  uplands  on  the  Upper  Mis- 
sissippi are  also  extremely  rich;  but  interspersed  with  round  flint  knobs, 
which  often  rise  in  regular  cones  2 or  300  feet  high.  There  are  large 
tracts  of  poor  land,  in  the  south-west  division  of  the  state,  covered  with 
yellow  pine,  bald  and  rocky  hills,  and  even  moving  sands.  In  fact,  this 
state  abounds  with  the  strongest  contrasts  of  soil  from  the  best  to  the 
worst ; and  there  are  very  extensive  tracts  of  each. 

Productions.  Hitherto  wheat  and  com  have  been  the  staples  of  this 
country.  The  warmth  and  looseness  of  the  soil,  the  large  proportions  of 
dissolved  limestone  in  it,  and  even  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  render 
it  an  admirable  country  for  wheat.  The  season  of  the  year  in  which 
wheat  matures,  is  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  culture  of  this  rich  grain. 
This  period  is  warm  and  dry,  and  seldom  has  any  rains,  except  transient 
showers.  The  wheat,  however,  receives  such  an  impulse  from  the  spring 
rains,  that  it  matures,  and  fills,  even  during  the  severest  droughts.  Twenty- 
five  bushels  to  an  acre  is  an  average  crop  • though  it  sometimes  rises  as  high 
as  thirty.  Rye,  barley  and  oats,  though  not  extensively  cultivated,  succeed 
equally  well.  Com  is  also  cultivated  in  the  highest  perfection.  The 
intense  heats  of  summer  agree  with  it. . It  throws  such  deep  and  strong 
toots  into  the  soil,  that  it  soon  shelters  them,  by  its  shade,  from  the  burn- 
ing ardors  of  the  sun;  and  the  crop  has  never  been  known  to  fail  from 
drought.  From  50  to  75  bushels  to  the  acre  is  an  average  crop;  although 
a hundred  are  often  raised.  The  droughts  are  often  severe,  yet  such  is 
the  depth  and  looseness  of  the  soil,  that  La  crop  matures.  Flax  is 
raised  in  considerable  quantities,  and  no  country  will  produce  better 
hemp.  Its  defect  is,  that  it  grows  too  coarse  and  rank.  Tobacco  has 
become  an  article  of  extensive  culture,  and  its  quality  is  excellent,  as  the 
yield  is  most  abundant.  Cotton  is  raised  in  the  warm  prairies  back  of 
New  Madrid.  It  yields  a tolerable  crop.  Sweet  and  Irish  potatoes  suc- 
ceed sufficiently  well.  This  state  has  lands  already  fit  for  the  plough,  suf- 
ficient to  produce  wheat  enough  for  the  whole  U.  S.  Prairies  of  hundreds 
of  thousands  of  acres  of  first  rate  wheat  lands  covered  with  grass,  and 


MISSOURI. 


289 


perfectly  free  from  shrubs  and  bushes,  invite  the  plough;  and  if  the 
country  were  cultivated  to  a proper  extent,  it  might  be  the  granary  of  the 
world. 

Cultivated  grasses  have  not  yet  succeeded  as  well  as  the  other  articles 
of  culture.  The  only  kind,  yet  experimented  to  any  considerable  degree, 
is  timothy;  and  this  requires  a close  and  wet  soil,  which  is  a very  un- 
common one  in  Missouri.  It  appears  to  possess  in  the  highest  degree, 
the  requisites  for  the  use  of  plaster.  Abundant  crops  of  red  clover  might 
be  made,  by  this  manure.  Plaster  is  found  of  the  best  quality,  and  in 
inexhaustible  quantities,  on  the  waters  of  the  Missouri.  From  analogy 
and  the  character  of  the  natural  grasses,  we  infer  that  St.  Foin,  and  the 
coarser  and  more  succulent  grasses  will  flourish  abundantly  in  this  deep 
and  rich  soil.  Turnips  and  bulbous  rooted  vegetables  grow  to  a great 
size.  Pumpkins,  squashes,  and  melpiis,  are  raised  no  where  in  greater 
abundance.  At  present  the  fodder  provided  for  the  stable  in  winter,  is 
chiefly  corn,  its  leaves  and -husks,  and,  what' as  called  prairie  This 

is  a coarse  and  tall  grass,  covering  the  prairies  in  the  greatest  abundance. 
In  the  early  stages  of  its  growth,  it  resembles  young  wheat ; and  in  this 
state  furnishes  a succulent  and  rich  feed  for  cattle.  They  have  been 
seen,  when  running  in  wheat  fields,  where  the  young  wheat  covered  the 
ground,  to  choose  the  prairie  grass  on  the  margins  of  the  fields  in  prefer- 
ence to  the  wheat.  It  is  impossible  to  imagine  better  butter  than  is  made 
while  the  grass  is  in  this  stage.  Cattle  and  horses,  that  have  lived  un- 
sheltered and  without  fodder  through  the  winter  and  in  the  spring  scarcely 
able  to  mount  the  hills,  through  leanness  and  weakness,  when  feeding  on 
this  grass,  are  transformed  to  a healthy  and  sleek  appearance,  as  if  by  a 
charm.  But  as  the,  summer  advances  it  becomes  tough  and  wiry.  By 
a strange  mistake,  this  grass  is  not  mowed  until  after  the  autumnal 
frosts.  Of  course  it  is  then  a harsh  and  coarse  fodder.  Were  it  cut 
before  it  has  thrown  out  its  seeds,  and  become  wiry,  it  would  be 
equally  valuable,  and  perhaps  superior  to  timothy.  It  creates  an  extremely 
tough  sward,  but  is  soon  killed  by  being  close  fed.  An  abundant  crop  of 
coarse,  and  tall  weeds  takes  its  place. 

In  the  meadows,  bottoms,  and  wet  prairies,  are  observed  a great  variety 
of  grasses,  most  of  them  nondescripts.  Some,  no  doubt,  would  be  found 
worthy  of  cultivation,  and  the  rather  so,  as  they  are  naturalized  to  the 
soil  and  climate.  Above  all  countries,  this  is  the  land  of  flowers.  In 
the  season  every  prairie  is  an  immense  flower  garden.  In  the  early  stages 
of  spring,  rises  a generation  of  flowers,  whose  prevalent  tint  is  peach- 
blow.  The  next  is  a deeper  red.  Then  succeeds  the  yellow,  and  to  the 
latest  period  of  autumn,  the  prairies  exhibit  a brilliant  golden  hue. 

37 


290 


MISSOURI, 


This  state  spreads  a wide  belt,  on  which  are  found  many  trees  and 
shrubs,  different  from  those  common  in  the  more  southern  parts  of  the 
valley.  They  differ,  also,  from  those  in  the  same  latitudes  on  the  Ohio. 
Crab  apple  trees,  pawpaws,  and  persimons,  are  abundant.  We  have  no 
where  seen  such  quantities  of  red  and  yellow  prairie  plums.  Wild  hops 
cover  whole  prairies.  Peccans,  hazlenuts,  and  nuts  of  the  different  tribes 
of  the  hickories,  are  found  in  great  abundance.  There  are  three  species 
of  the  vine  common  in  all  parts  of  the  country.  The  first  is  the  J une 
grape,  that  ripens  in  that  month.  It  is  small,  sweet,  and  uncommon;  not 
being  found  except  in  untrodden  islands  in  the  rivers,  or  remote  places 
beyond  the  reach  of  domestic  animals.  The  French  formerly  made  a 
pleasant  wine  from  it.  It  ought  to  be  more  known.  The  summer  grape 
is  small,  purple,  and  a tolerably  rich  fruit  in  the  month  of  October. — - 
When  carefully  dried  in  the  sun,  these  grapes  are  not  much  inferior  to 
raisins.  When  ripe,  they  are  too  dry  to  make  wine.  The  winter  grape 
is  small,  austere,  and  sour.  When  matured  by  the  winter  frosts,  it  be- 
comes tolerably  pleasant. 

From  the  temperature  of  the  climate,  the  warmth  and  looseness  of  the 
soil,  and  more  than  all  the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere,  we  would  suppose 
this  country  as  favorable  for  the  cultivation  of  the  vine,  as  any  other  in 
the  United  States.  The  atmosphere  is  drier  here  than  in  Ohio,  Kentucky, 
and  Indiana.  The  fault  of  the  fruit  there,  is  to  grow,  too  abundant  and 
succulent.  The  few  attempts,  that  have  been  made  to  cultivate  the  vine 
here,  warrant  the  conclusion,  that  one  day  the  southern  exposures  of  the 
gentle  eminences  will  be  covered  with  vines.  All  the  fruits  of  the 
northern  and  middle  states  thrive  in  an  uncommon  degree.  The  apple 
tree  attains  its  utmost  developement  and  beauty.  An  inhabitant  from 
the  northern  states  is  struck  with  surprise,  to  see  this  tree  in  three 
years  from  the  time  of  its  transplanting,  and  as  soon  as  it  attains  the  size 
of  a man’s  wrist,  loading  itself  with  fruit.  Peach  trees  break  down  from 
the  weight  of  their  fruit.  Pear  trees,  apricots,  and  nectarines,  though 
they  have  been  introduced  in  but  few  instances,  prosper.  This  seems  to 
be  the  native  country  of  fruit  trees.  Few  attempts  have  yet  been  made 
to  inoculate  and  engraft  good  kinds  of  fruit  trees,  and  every  thing  in  most 
instances,  has  been  left  to  nature.  Apples  are  already  abundant  in  the 
older  settlements.  Barley  yields  a fine  crop;  and  it  is  hoped,  that  not 
many  years  will  elapse,  before  beer  and  porter,  drinks  so  proper  for  this 
hot  climate,  will  take  the  place  of  that  murderer  both  of  soul  and  body, 
whiskey.  The  mulberry  tree  is  common  in  the  woods  ; and  this  is,  un- 
doubtedly, among  the  best  of  the  middle  climates  for  breeding  the  silk 
worm,  and  making  silk.  In  short,  every  production  of  the  northern  and 


MISSOURI. 


291 


middle  states  thrives  here.  The  heats  of  summer  and  the  dryness  of  the 
atmosphere  peculiarly  fit  this  soil  for  the  cultivation  of  the  medicinal 
plants,  rhubarb,  palma  christi,  and  the  poppy. 

Animals.  Bears,  wolves,  and  panthers,  are  as  common,  as  in  the  more 
southern  regions.  The  prairie  wolf,  the  most  mischievous  of  the  species, 
is  but  too  frequent.  Buffaloes  and  elk  are  only  found  in  the  prairies 
beyond  the  limits  of  this  state.  Deer,  as  the  Indians  retire,  and  as  cul- 
tivation becomes  more  common,  are  seen  to  increase  in  numbers.  They 
are  so  frequently  noted,  from  four  to  twenty  in  a drove,  even  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  the  populous  villages,  as  to  be  no  objects  of  curi- 
osity. That  large  and  mischievous  species  of  the  mole,  called  gopher,  is 
extremely  annoying  on  the  prairies  and  barrens.  It  is  seldom  seen  on 
the  timbered  bottoms.  These  animals  live  in  communities,  in  the  vicinity 
of  which  they  raise  thousands  of  eminences.  They  form  these  eminences 
by  removing  the  earth  from  their  holes,  by  a pouch  with  which  nature  has 
furnished  them,  on  each  side  of  their  mouth.  They  are  extremely  mis- 
chievous in  corn  and  potatoe  fields,*  and  in  gardens  they  prey  upon  all 
kinds  of  bulbous  roots.  Their  bite  is  said  to  be  poisonous.  The  prairie 
dog  begins  to  be  seen  in  the  western  extremities  of  this  state. 

Battle  snakes,  copper  heads,  and  ground  vipers  are  found  in  the  unset- 
tled regions;  and  especially  near  the  flint  knobs  and  ledgy  hills.  The 
small  and  pernicious  rattle  snakes,  called  snappers,  live  in  great  numbers 
in  particular  places  on  the  prairies.  Poisonous  reptiles  are  not  so  com- 
mon, as  in  unsettled  regions  of  the  same  latitude,  where  the  country  is 
generally  timbered.  Burning  the  prairies  undoubtedly  destroys  multi- 
tudes of  them.  The  ponds,  lakes,  and  rivers,  during  the  spring  and 
autumn,  and  during  the  migrating  season  of  water  fowls,  are  literally 
covered  with  swans,  pelicans,  cranes,  geese,  brants  and  ducks,  of  all  the 
tribes  and  varieties.  Many  of  these  fowls  rear  their  young  on  the  islands 
and  sandbars  of  the  large  rivers.  In  the  autumn  multitudes  of  them 
are  killed  for  their  quills,  feathers,  and  flesh.  The  birds  called  quails  in 
New  England,  and  partridges  here,  are  numerous,  as  is  also  a bird,  some- 
what larger  than  a domestic  hen,  called  the  prairie-hen.  In  the  autumns 
of  some  seasons  they  are  seen  hovering  over  the  corn  fields  in  flocks  of 
hundreds.  They  are  easily  taken,  and  when  fat  are  fine  for  the  table. 
There  are  two  larger  and  still  more  beautiful  species  of  the  grouse  tribe, 
found  far  up  the  Missouri.  Turtle  doves  are  always  numerous,  as  in 
some  seasons  are  the  wild  pigeons.  Singing  birds  are  not  so  common  as 
in  the  country  farther  south;  or  the  more  settled  and  cultivated  regions  of 
the  north.  It  is  a striking  fact,  that  they  beeome  more  common  in  any 
region,  as  cultivation  advances.  The  robin  red  breast  is  seen  in  flocks  in 
the  autumn,  but  does  not  rear  its  young  here.  The  magpie,  or  French 


292 


MISSOURI. 


black  bird,  that -is  so  frequently  heard  chattering  its  notes  in  the  meadows 
of  New  England  in  spring,  has  only  been  observed  here  since  the  country 
has  begun  to  be  peopled  and  cultivated.  The  red  bird,  or  Virginia 
nightingale,  rears  its  young,  and  spends  the  winter  here,  and  on  a mild 
day  in  winter  its  mild  whistle  is  delightful  in  the  deep  forests.  The  blue 
bird  is  heard  in  all  the  mild  days  of  winter.  The  beautiful  parroquet 
frequents  the  sycamore  bottoms,  and  poorly  compensates  by  the  extreme 
beauty  of  its  plumage  for  the  injury  it  does  the  orchards. 

The  domestic  animals  are  the  same,  as  elsewhere  in  the  United  States. 
The  wide  prairies  every  where  covered  with  grass,  invite  the  raising  of 
cattle.  Many  of  the  farmers  possess  great  droves;  and  they  may  be 
multiplied  to  an  indefinite  extent.  The  cattle  are  fine,  and  the  beef  good. 
When  the  same  attention  is  here  bestowed  upon  rearing  the  best  kind  of 
horses,  that  is  given  to  the  subject  by  the  Pennsylvania  farmer,  that  noble 
animal  will  be  raised  in  the  utmost  perfection.  Sheep  prosper,  nor  does 
the  fleece  degenerate.  North  of  40°,  on  the  prairies  between  the  Missouri 
and  Mississippi,  shepherds  will  one  day  find  their  homes,  and  their  sheep 
will  yield  the  finest  and  best  wool.  At  present  the  wolf  is  a fatal  enemy 
to  them;  and  the  number  of  weeds  that  bear  burs  is  so  great,  that  their 
fleeces  become  matted  and  tangled  with  them;  and,  in  detaching,  the 
staple  of  the  fleece  is  injured.  Swine  are  raised  with  greater  facility, 
than  in  Ohio.  Hickory  and  acorn  bearing  trees  are  more  abundant  than 
in  that  state.  On  the  whole,  for  rearing  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses,  this 
state  and  Illinois  have  advantages,  over  any  other  of  the  western  states. 

Agriculture.  There  is  no  country,  in  which  a farm  is  made  with  less 
difficulty,  or  where  tillage  is  more  easy.  A great'  proportion  of  the  land 
is  fit  for  the  plough  The  soil  is  easy  to  work.  The  greatest  obstacle  in 
the  way  of  present  farming  is  the  want  of  good  fencing  materials.  Stones 
are  seldom  to  be  found,  and  no  where,  except  in  quarries  and  ledges;  and 
when  found,  they  are  not  used  for  the  purpose  of  fencing.  Unless  forests 
are  planted,  there  will  soon  be  an  absolute  want  of  a sufficiency  of  any 
kind  of  timber  for  fencing.  The  substitute  ought  to  be  found  in  hedges. 
Whenever  the  farmers  of  this  country  understand  their  true  interests, 
they  will  immediately  commence  the  planting  of  hedges.  The  subject 
has  as  yet  engaged  the  contemplation  of  only  a few  intelligent  ^husband- 
men.  They  have  thought  that  the  native  gooseberry,  which  here  grows 
wild,  and  of  a tangled  luxuriance,  unknown  in  the  country  east  of  the 
Alleghanies,  would  be  sufficiently  thorny  and  impenetrable  for  a hedge. 
Others  have  recommended  the  thorny  locust,  or  acacia , the  crab  apple 
tree,  the  privet,  a most  beautiful  shrub  of  the  laurel  class,  used  in  the 
middle  states  to  form  borders  and  walks.  There  seems  no  good  reason, 
why  the  British  hawthorn,  or  the  Columbian  thorn  should  not  be  adopted 


MISSOII  HI* 


293 


For  this  purpose.  It  would  grow  here  more  rapidly,  than  in  Pennsylvania 
and  Delaware,  where  it  sooh  becomes  a fence  sufficient  to  turn  cattle. 
The  beauty  of  a wheat  field  in  full  verdure  in  autumn,  in  contrast  with 
the  brown  of  the  prairies  is  a striking  feature  in  the  cultivated  landscape. 
It  would  be  more  so,  when  its  outline  was  skirted  with  a living  and  ver- 
dant hedge.  The  planting  of  the  Alleghany  white  pine  and  the  chesnut 
ought  also  to  be  objects  of  immediate  attention.  The  scarcity  of  wood 
and  timber  imperiously  calls  upon  those,  who  have  any  thought  for  the 
generations  to  come,  to  attend  to  this  sort  of  improvement. 

Houses , fyc.  But  a few  years  since,  a house  of  better  structure,  than 
a temporary  log  cabin  was  a rare  object.  The  ease  of  obtaining  subsist- 
ence was  so  great,  and  there  was  for  a considerable  time  so  little  emula- 
tion among  the  people,  that  they  hardly  consulted  comfort,  much  less 
ornament.  Most  of  the  first  settlers  were  backwoodsmen,  used  to 
the  hardships  of  a laborious  life.  Indolent,  and  satisfied  with  the  supply 
of  the  most  common  wants  of  nature,  they  lived  in  open  and  miserable 
habitations  which  neither  excluded  the  rain,  heat,  or  cold.  It  was  a long 
time,  before  the  country  had  mills,  and  the  materials  for  building  bore  a 
high  price.  Sites  for  water  mills  are  not  common.  But  such  have  been 
found.  Mills  on  the  principle  of  the  inclined  plane,  and  steam  mills  have 
been  commenced.  Good  houses  have  been  reared,  not  only  in  the  towns 
and  villages,  but  in  the  country.  Log  cabins  and  log  houses  are  disap- 
pearing in  all  directions,  and  better  houses  are  taking  their  place.  Rival- 
ry and  emulation  have  been  inspired;  and  the  people  have  been  often 
tempted  to  build  more  showy  houses  than  were  requisite  either  for  com- 
fort, or  conformity  to  the  circumstances  of  the  builder.  Brick  and  stone 
houses,  have  been  generally  preferred. 

Climate. . Soon  after  we  descend  below  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  the 
climate  begins  to  verge  towards  a southern  one.  This  state  occupies  a 
medial  position,  and  has  a temperature  intermediate  between  that  of  New 
York  and  Louisiana.  From  the  circumstance,  that  the  valley  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi spreads  like  an  immense  inclined  plane,  towards  the  gulf  of 
Mexico,  it  results,  that  north  and  south  winds  alternate  through  this 
valley.  This  fact  applies  most  strongly  to  the  immediate  valley  of  the 
Mississippi.  As  the  prevailing  winds  blow  either  up,  or  down  the  valley, 
the  changes  are  great  and  sudden.  When  the  breeze  for  any  length  of 
time  descends  the  Misssissippi  the  weather  becomes  cold ; and  if  the 
same  direction  of  the  wind  continues  for  successive  days,  and  it  be 
winter,  the  Missouri  and  the  Mississippi  are  frozen,  and  the  mercury  falls 
below  zero.  After  this  wind  has  prevailed  for  a length  of  time,  the  op- 
posite wind  gets  the  ascendency  again;  and  it  is  not  uncommon  to  have 
days,  when  one  can  sit  at  the  open  window,  with  comfort,  in  January. 


294 


MISSOURI, 


Hence  the  climate  is  extremely  fickle  and  variable.  The  transitions  are 
so  rapid,  as  not  only  to  be  uncomfortable,  but  to  have  an  unfavorable  ef- 
fect upon  the  constitution.  But  the  country  is  always  exempt  from 
those  damp,  and  if  it  be  winter,  piercing  north-east  breezes,  that  prevail  so 
much  on  the  Atlantic  shore. 

The  winter  commences  about  Christmas,  and  is  frequently  so  severe,  as 
to  bridge  the  mighty  current  of  the  Missouri  so  firmly,  that  it  may  be 
passed  for  many  weeks  with  loaded  teams.  In  the  winter  of  1818,  this 
was  the  case  for  nine  weeks.  During  this  period,  however,  there  are 
often  truly  warm  days,  with  a sky  perfectly  brilliant,  and  destitute  of  that 
leaden  hue,  which  it  has  at  the  same  period  on  the  Atlantic  shore.  Snow 
seldom  falls  more  than  six  inches  deep;  and  generally  does  no  more  than 
cover  the  ground,  disappearing  after  two  or  three  days.  Its  severity 
ceases  with  February.  Through  the  months  of  March  and  April,  there  are 
frequent  summer  days,  and  the  trees  sometimes  blossom  in  the  former 
month.  But  it  seldom  happens,  that  there  are  not  alternations  of  cold 
even  into  May.  On  the  whole,  instead  of  the  climate  becoming  more 
mild,  as  we  advance  west  on  the  same  parallel,  it  is  believed,  that  the 
reverse  is  the  case.  The  greater  part  of  the  summer  is  intensely  hot. 
The  country  is  bare  and  open  to  the  full  influence  of  the  sun.  The  soil, 
moreover,  is  of  a warm  and  sandy  texture ; strongly  imbibing  the  sun’s 
rays.  The  sky  for  the  greater  part  of  the  summer  is  brilliant  and  cloud- 
less. All  these  circumstances  concur  to  give  this  country  a warm  sum- 
mer. Nevertheless  the  openness  of  the  country,  and  its  freedom  from 
mountains  which  impede  the  course  of  the  winds,  always  creates  more  or 
less  of  a breeze,  which  tempers  the  heat.,  and  renders  it  more  endurable. 

Another  circumstance,  which  distinguishes  this  climate  from  most 
others  on  our  continent,  is  its  extreme  dryness  and  purity.  Evaporation 
takes  place  with  great  rapidity.  It  differs  in  this  respect  from  the  wood- 
ed valley  of  the  Ohio,  and  still  more  from  that  of  the  Mississippi  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  Polished  steel,  in  the  southern  parts  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi valley,  contracts  rust  in  a few  hours,  and  the  dews  are  like  rains. 
The  three  years,  1816,  ’17  and ’18,  gave  an  average  of  only  fifty  cloudy 
days  in  the  season,  and  not  more  than  twenty-five  that  were  rainy.  The 
average  amount  of  rain,  that  falls  in  Missouri,  does  not  exceed  eighteen 
inches  a year.  There  are  exceptions,  however,  as  in  the  year  1811, common- 
ly called  by  the  French  Vannee  des  eaux , in  which  year  it  was  thought, 
there  fell  more  than  forty  inches.  The  two  great  rivers  that  year  filled  their 
bottoms,  in  some  places,  quite  to  the  bluffs;  and  their  courses  were  often 
five  or  six  miles  wide.  The  Missouri  country  may  be  pronounced,  in 
the  general  a dry  one.  The  steady  rains  are  from  the  south-west.  The 
long  rains  that  occur  in  the  Atlantic  country  without  thunder,  seldom 


MISSOURI. 


295 


happen  here.  The  summer  rains  are  generally  thunder  showers.  They 
rise  near  the  courses  of  the  great  rivers,  and  appear  to  be  supplied  by 
evaporation  from  them.  The  lightning  is  vivid,  and  the  thunder  loud 
and  frequent.  The  autumn  of  Missouri,  in  common  with  the  whole 
Mississippi  valley,  is  serene  temperate  and  delightful. 

Such  is  the  general  aspect  of  the  climate.  But  in  a country  so  large, 
and  open,  seasons  sometimes  occur  very  wide  from  this  general  character. 
The  uniformity  of  the  autumns  is  indeed  almost  invariable.  But  the 
general  character  of  this  climate  is,  that  less  reliance  can  be  placed  upon 
the  analogy  of  the  past,  as  a clue  to  the  future,  than  on  almost  any  other, 
of  which  we  have  read. 

Salubrity  of  the  country.  When  it  was  first  settled  by  the  Americans, 
there  were  some  years  of  extraordinary  mortality,  which  acquired  for  the 
country  a character  of  sickliness.  A part  of  this  fatality  may  be  fairly 
attributed  to  the  circumstance,  that  the  immigrants  were  unsheltered,  ex- 
cept by  miserable  hovels ; and  that  there  were  few  mills  to  supply  the 
people  with  bread.  The  diet  was  changed.  The  modes  of  life  were 
changed.  The  people  were  imprudent  and  exposed.  The  season  was 
uncommonly  rainy.  On  the  level  lands  and  in  the  hollows  rested 
immense  quantities  of  stagnant  water,  which  escaped  only  by  the  evapo- 
ration of  a powerful  sun.  One  or  two  sickly  seasons  have  occurred  since. 
In  the  neighborhood  of  inundated  bottoms,  where  waters  escape  during 
the  floods  from  the  rivers,  and  are  retained  in  the  gullies  and  ponds  in 
the  vicinity  of  small  lakes,  and  stagnant  waters,  the  effect  is  the  same 
here,  as  elsewhere;  with  the  added  inconvenience,  that  the  heats  of  sum- 
mer, and  the  powerful  evaporation,  consequent  upon  the  heat  and  dry- 
ness of  the  atmosphere,  increase  the  noxious  activity  of  the  causes  of 
disease.  Whenever  an  unacclimated  family  fixes  itself  in  the  vicinity  of 
such  collections  of  water,  it  may  calculate  upon  sickness.  Intermitting 
fevers  are  the  consequence  of  inhaling  the  miasm  of  swamps  and  decay- 
ing vegetation,  the  change  of  temperature  from  the  coolness  of  the  night 
to  the  heats  of  day,  exposure  to  the  heavy  dews,  and  various  other  mixed 
causes.  Intermittents  are  the  most  common  diseases  of  the  country. 
The  tendency  of  all  complaints  in  the  summer  is  to  assume  a bilious 
type.  Bilious  fevers  are  apt  to  prevail  in  the  autumn.  In  some  seasons 
they  are  endemic  in  particular  districts.  They  sometimes  take  the  form 
of  continued  fevers,  and  are  then  dangerous.  More  frequently  they  are 
remittents,  and  when  properly  managed,  yield  readily  to  medicine.  If 
the  attendance  of  a judicious  physician  is  early  and  constant,  they  are  sel- 
dom fatal.  Pleurisy  and  lung  fevers  sometimes  prevail  in  the  winter. 
Pulmonic  complaints  attended  with  cough  and  terminating  in  consump- 
tion, notwithstanding  the  inconstancy  of  the  weather,  are  uncommon. 


296 


MISSOURI. 


There  is  no  doubt,  that  increase  of  population  and  cultivation  by  draining 
stagnant  waters,  and  removing  the  redundant  vegetation,  directly  tends 
to  increase  the  salubrity  of  a new  country.  In  process  of  time  this  must 
become  a healthy  country.  It  can  not  be  accounted  a sickly  one  at  pres- 
ent. Except  in  deep  bottoms,  and  unfavorable  situations,  the  chances  of 
life  and  health  are  as  favorable  here,  as  in  most  countries,  which  are  re- 
puted healthy. 

Scenery , Roads,  Sfc.  The  hills,  or,  as  they  are  called,  the  Ozark 
mountains  of  the  mine  country,  are  sufficiently  precipitous  and  grand,  to 
add  the  sublimity  of  mountain  seenery  to  the  prospect.  In  the  bottoms 
and  along  the  mountain  streams  contrary  to  the  common  assertion  in 
books,  the  soil  has  uncommon  fertility:  and  we  have  not  witnessed  scenery 
of  a character  more  solitary,  wild  and  beautiful,  than  in  the  mine  country. 
Along  all  the  considerable  water  courses  there  are  those  bluffs,  that  in 
the  western  country  mark  the  alluvial  outline  of  streams.  In  some  places, 
especially  on  the  Upper  Mississippi,  they  swell  to  high  hills,  which  run 
out  at  right  angles  from  the  river,  and  seem  like  mountainous  waves  of 
the  sea,  suddenly  arrested  and  fixed.  Compared  with  the  northern  states, 
and  these  partial  exceptions  aside,  the  habitable  part  of  Missouri  is  one 
vast  plain.  We  have  already  described  the  prairies  of  the  west.  All  know, 
that  the  name  is  a French  one,  importing  a meadow.  Those,  who  have 
not  seen  a prairie  may  easily  form  a conception  of  one.  Yet  the  grandest 
objects  of  nature  will  not  excite  more  surprize  in  the  mind  of  a traveller 
from  the  Atlantic  states,  than  the  first  view  pf  a prairie.  Riding  day 
after  day,  through  forests,  where  the  small  improvements  made  in  the 
wilderness  scarcely  interrupt  the  unbroken  continuity  of  woods,  he  opens 
at  once  upon  the  view  of  a boundless  horizon.  He  beholds  outstretched 
under  his  eye  a perfectly  level  plain,  of  the  most  soft  and  beautifnl  ver- 
dure, covered  with  flowers  of  every  scent  and  hue.  Here  and  there  in 
the  skirts  of  the  prairies,  and  often  in  their  centre  are  clumps  of  oaks  pec- 
cans  and  black  walnuts  disposed  in  forms  so  regular,  and  generally 
circular,  as  can  not  fail  to  fill  the  eye  of  an  admirer  of  the  ancient  style 
of  gardening.  He  is  unprepared  for  a view  in  such  strong  contrast  with 
the  dark  and  lonely  forests.  It  is  impossible  to  eonvey  by  description 
the  impression,  which  these  views  create.  In  the  vast  prairies,  or  on  the 
verge  of  the  bluffs,  that  overlook  them,  taking  into  view  the  verdant 
ocean  of  grass,  the  vast  rivers  rolling  their  mighty  masses  of  waters  through 
the  dark  forests,  the  romantic  hills  stretching  away  in  the  distance ; and 
here  and  there  a cabin,  or  a house  throwing  up  its  column  of  smoke,  and 
the  cattle,  horses  and  sheep,  sleeping  about  it,  this  coyntry  furnishes 
enchanting  landscapes  for  the  pencil. 


MISSOURI* 


297 


There  are  as  yet  few  roads,  that  are  wrought.  Nature  has  been  more 
indulgent  to  this  country,  in  this  respect,  than  perhaps  to  any  other.  It 
is  neither  a boundless  sandy  plain,  nor  a tame  and  level  prairie ; but  a 
diversified  surface  of  gentle  hills  and  easy  slopes.  Wherever  the  current 
of  passing  has  marked  a road,  it  is  generally  a good  one.  If  a person  in 
a carriage  is  dissatisfied  with  the  beaten  one,  he  selects  one  for  himself, 
and  can  travel  with  ease,  in  most  instances,  through  the  untrodden  forest. 
The  roads  are  passable  at  all  times  of  the  year;  and  seldom  muddy  more 
than  two  or  three  days  in  succession.  This  circumstance  eminently 
distinguishes  this  country  from  that  on  the  Ohio. 

Minerals , Fossils , Sfc.  The  Rocky  Mountains,  which  are  a continua- 
tion of  the  mineral  mountains  of  New  Mexico,  so  abundant  in  the  precious 
metals,  probably  contain  them  too.  Travellers,  who  have  ascended  the 
Missouri  to  its  sources,  say  that  gold  dust  is  mingled  with  its  sands,  at 
the  mouth  of  the  Roche  Jaune,  or  Yellow  Stone.  Fossil  coal  is  found 
in  great  abundance  along  the  Missouri.  It  abounds  near  St.  Charles  and 
St.  Louis.  The  extent  of  the  veins,  and  the  quality  of  the  coal  have  not 
been  much  tested.  In  a region  so  bare  of  wood,  these  internal  provisions 
for  that  deficiency  will  one  day  be  thoroughly  explored,  and  found  to 
constitute  one  of  its  essential  resources.  Most  beautiful  specimens  of 
plaster  are  brought,  from  the  Platte.  Immense  bodies  of  iron  are  found 
in  Bellevpe,  on  Big  River  and  its  waters,  and  in  various  points  back  of 
Herculaneum,  and  on  the  St.  Francis  and  Black  Rivers;  and  iron  ore  is 
indicated  in  all  points  of  this  state.  Manganese,  zinc,  antimony,  and 
cobalt  are  dug  along  with  lead  ore  in  the  lead  mines.  Red  and  white 
chalk,  flint,  ochres  of  different  colors,  common  salt,  nitre,  steatite,  marl, 
plumbago,  porphyry,  jasper,  chalcedony,  ponderous  barytes,  and  pumice 
stone  are  found  in  the  country.  It  is  affirmed,  that  cinnabar,  or  the  red 
ores  of  mercury,  are  found  here.  Marble  and  blue  lime  stone  abound; 
and  the  lime  made  from  it  is  of  the  best  quality.  Porcelain  clay  of  the 
finest  quality  abounds  near  Cape  Girardeau.  Along  the  banks  of  the 
Missouri,  in  many  places,  the  bluffs  are  composed  of  thin,  smooth,  and 
perfectly  regular  strata  of  rock,  apparently  composed  of  iron  and  lime 
stone.  They  resemble  slate,  and  it  is  believed  would  answer  the  same 
purpose  for  covering  houses.  The  hint  knobs  are  curiosities.  They 
abound  in  the  south-west  part  of  the  state,  and  along  the  Upper  Missis- 
sippi. They  are  frequently  in  the  shape  of  cones,  rising  300  feet  with  a 
base  often  less  than  a mile  in  diameter.  They  are  composed  of  siliceous 
masses  of  stone,  among  which  are  thousands  of  fl.eche,  or  arrow  stones, 
which  serve  the  Indians  for  gun  flints.  Pumice  stones  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful specimens  are  often  seen  floating  on  the  Missouri.  The  Indian  pipe 
stone,  so  abundant  on  the  river  St.  Peter,  is  said  to  be  found  in  this  state. 

38 


298 


MISSOURI 


It  is  of  a beautiful  dark  red  color,  and  receives  a polish  equal  to  alabaster, 
Pyrite  of  copper  is  found  dispersed  over  the  country  in  various  places. 
The  river  Ciiivre  was  so  named  by  the  French,  from  supposing,  that  its 
banks  abounded  in  copper  ore.  Masses  of  pure,  malleable  copper, 
weighing  from  three  to  ten  pounds,  are  shown  as  native  curiosities. — 
Splendid  specimens  of  crystal  are  often  discovered. 

But  the  mineral,  for  which  this  region  is  more  particularly  noted,  is 
that  of  lead.  Lead  ore  is  dug  in  various  parts  of  the  state ; and  there  is 
no  doubt,  but  it  may  be  found  every  where  in  a line  of  hills,  reaching 
from  the  Illinois  lead  mines,  near  Rock  River,  quite  across  the  Missouri. 
These  mines  will  more  properly  be  described  under  the  head  of  the 
state  of  Illinois.  In  speaking  of  the  lead  mines  of  Missouri,  we  shall 
confine  ourselves  to  those  which  are  in  the  county  of  Washington  and 
the  region  contiguous.  This  district  extends  nearly  an  hundred  miles  in 
length,  and  forty  miles  in  width  j though  discoveries,  as  they  are  called, 
are  constantly  making  in  the  regions  adjoining,  in  the  one  direction  quite 
to  the  Missouri,  and  in  the  other  to  White  River.  But  the  principal 
‘diggings’  are  included  in  an  extent  of  fifteen  miles  in  one  direction  and 
thirty  in  the  other.  The  centre  of  this  district  is  from  50  to  70  miles 
south-west  from  St.  Louis,  and  little  more  than  half  that  distance  from 
Herculaneum  on  the  Mississippi,  and  from  30  to  50  from  St.  Genevieve. 
The  lead  is  principally  wagoned  from  the  mines  to  both  places,  to  be 
thence  transported  down  the  Mississippi,  and  up  the  Ohio.  A great 
number  of  wagons  are  constantly  employed  in  this  occupation.  This 
tract  is  abundantly  watered  by  Big  River  and  its  branches.  No  part  of 
the  country  west  of  the  Mississippi  is  watered  by  a greater  number  of 
clear  and  full  mountain  streams.  These  streams  are  branches  of  Big 
River,  which  is  itself  one  of  the  principal  branches  of  the  Maramec. 
The  hills,  or  mountains  lie  in  alternate  ridges.  Some  are  sterile ; and 
some  have  a rich  and  productive  soil.  The  vallies  between  them  are 
almost  uniformly  fertile.  The  declivity  of  one  ridge  is  covered  with 
masses  of  crystalized  spar  of  every  form  and  size.  This  is  called  ‘min- 
eral blossom.’  Most  beautiful  samples  may  be  easily  selected  from  this 
infinite  variety.  It  is  the  custom  not  to  dig  where  it  lies  on  the  surface. 
The  ore  is  sought  where  this  spar  is  found  about  two  feet  below  the  surface. 
The  earth  is  of  a bright  colour  between  red  and  yellow,  and  the  ore  is 
generally  found  imbedded  in  rock  and  hard  gravel. 

It  is  remarkable,  that  although  a vast  extent  has  been  dug  over,  through 
all  this  district,  nothing  like  a continued  vein  has  yet  been  found.  At  a 
depth  of  nearly  80  feet,  to  which  Mr.  Austin  sunk  a shaft,  a vein  was  found, 
which  seemed  to  have  more  resemblance  to  those  continued  veins,  or  mat- 
rices of  ore,  where,  in  the  language  of  mineralogists,  the  ore  is  in  situ? 


MISSOURI® 


299 


or  in  place.  But  the  water  came  in  upon  this  digging,  and  it  was  aban 
doned.  Of  all  the  immense  amounts  of  lead,  that  have  been  smelted 
here,  the  ore  has  hitherto  been  found  in  detached  masses,  not  in  situ;  and 
apparently  transported  there  by  some  inexplicable  and  prodigious  changes 
that  have  changed  the  structure  of  the  earth  in  all  this  region.  These 
masses  are  found  with  every  degree  of  dip  to  the  horizon,  and  from  two 
to  twenty  feet  below  the  surface.  The  operative  miners  lease  a certain 
tract  of  land,  which  is  staked  out  to  them.  They  fall  to  digging  upon  this 
spot.  Sometimes  a single  man  will  dig  a ton  of  ore  in  a day ; and  again 
he  will  dig  a week  without  lighting  upon  a single  pound.  The  digging 
itself  is  a species  of  gambling;  and  there  are  few  miners  who  are  not 
steadily  addicted  to  this  practice.  Immorality  is  naturally  inspired  by 
the  pursuit,  so  like  gambling  itself;  and  by  all  that  is  seen,  or  felt  in 
example.  Few  attempts  have  yet  been  made  to  mine  upon  scientific 
principles.  Adventurers  go  as  fancy  directs  them.  There  are  creeds  of 
mineralogy  peculiar  to  these  wild  people;  and  not  a few  believe  implicitly 
in  bletonism,or  the  mysteries  of  the  divining  rod.  Some,  who  have  long 
resided  here,  and  observed  keenly,  and  noted  the  circumstances  that 
usually  accompany  the  finding  of  ore,  have  acquired  a great  fund  of 
practical  knowledge  upon  the  subject.  Discoveries  are  continually 
making,  and  the  adventurers  flock  from  one  place  to  another,  according 
as  the  fame  of  recent  success  has  blazoned  it.  The  names  of  the  prin- 
cipal diggings  are  as  follow : Barton,  Shibboleth,  Lebaum’s,  Old  Mines, 
Bryan’s,  Pratt’s,  Robbins’,  Astraddle,  La  Motte,  a Joe,  Renault’s,  New 
Diggings,  Liberty,  Canon’s,  Silver’s,  A.  Martin,  &c.  The  business  of 
digging  has  increased,  and  diminished,  many  times,  according  to  the 
changing  circumstances  of  the  country.  Fifty  diggings  are  occupied. 
Something  more  than  3,000,000  pounds  are  annually  smelted,  giving- 
employment  to  nearly  1,200  hands.  The  ore  is  principally  of  that  class 
called  galena , and  is  very  rich,  yielding  from  75  to  80  per  cent.  So  much 
lead  remains  in  the  slag,  that  there  are  people  who  purchase  it,  to  smelt 
it  anew.  A considerable  portion  of  arsenic  is  driven  from  the  lead  while 
it  is  smelting.  The  fumes  of  the  smelting  masses  of  ore  are  poisonous; 
and  cattle  die  from  licking  the  slag  that  is  thrown  out.  In  digging  the 
lead  ore,  zinc,  calamine,  and  manganese  are  dug  with  it,  and  are  thrown 
by  as  useless.  Barytes  is  also  common  among  the  lead  ore.  Its  great 
specific  gravity,  its  whiteness,  and  susceptibility  of  being  ground  to  an 
impalpable  powder,  render  it  a valuable  addition  to  white  lead.  The 
quality  of  the  paint  is  supposed  to  be  improved  by  the  addition.  The 
manufacture  of  red  lead  has  been  attempted.  But  the  making  of  white 
lead,  or  even  sheet  lead  has  not  been  carried  to  any  extent  . Shot  towers 


300 


MISSOURI. 


are  erected  at  Herculaneum  and  at  other  places;  and  great  quantities  are 
exported.  The  mine  country  is  remarkable  for  its  salubrity,  the  number 
of  its  sites  for  water  mills,  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  and  the  enterprise  of  its 
farmers.  No  part  of  the  country,  west  of  the  Mississippi,  so  earnestly 
invites  manufactures,  especially  those  of  lead.  Those  of  iron  have  been 
commenced  on  a large  scale.  These  mines,  if  worked  to  the  extent  of 
which  they  are  capable,  would  not  only  supply  lead  enough  for  the  United 
States,  but  for  the  world.  The  country  where  the  diggings  have  been 
made,  exhibits  a curious  spectacle.  Coarse  and  dilapidated  air  furnaces, 
immense  piles  of  slags,  and  all  the  accompaniments  of  smelting,  show 
in  how  many  deserted  places  these  operations  have  been  performed.  The 
earth  thrown  up  in  the  diggings  contains  portions  of  oxided  minerals, 
and  acquires  in  the  air  a brilliant  reddish  hue  ; and  the  numberless  excav- 
ations have  the  appearance  of  being  graves  for  giants.  It  is  an  hundred 
years  since  the  French  began  to  dig  lead  ore  in  this  region.  Salt  is  made 
in  large  quantities  at  Boone’s  Lick,  near  St.  Genevieve,  and  Herculaneum, 
Rivers.  This  state  takes-  its  name  from  the  Missouri,  which 
empties  into  the  Mississippi  on  its  eastern  limit.  This  is  by  far  the 
largest  tributary  of  the  Mississippi,  bringing  down  more  water  than  the 
Upper  Mississippi  itself.  In  fact,  it  is  a longer  river  than  the  Mississippi, 
from  its  farthest  source  to  the  Mexican  gulf.  There  are  many  circum- 
stances which  render  it  one  of  the  most  interesting  rivers;  and  it  is  clearly 
the  longest  tributary  stream  on  the  globe.  Many  have  thought  that  from 
its  length,  the  amount  of  its  waters,  and  the  circumstance  of  its  commu- 
nicating its  own  character,  in  every  respect,  to  the  Mississippi  below  the 
junction,  it  ought  to  have  been  considered  the  main  river,  and  to  have 
continued  to  bear  its  own  name  to  the  sea.  In  opposition  to  this  claim, 
we  remark,  that  the  valley  of  the  Missouri  seems,  in  the  grand  scale  of 
conformation,  to  be  secondary  to  the  Mississippi.  The  Missouri  has  not 
the  general  direction  of  that  river,  which  it  joins  nearly  at  right  angles. 
The  valley  of  the  Mississippi  is  wider  than  that  of  the  Missouri,  and  the 
the  riyer  is  broader.  The  course  of  the  river,  and  the  direction  of  the 
valley  are  the  same,  above  and  below  the  junction  of  the  Missouri. — 
From  these,  and  many  other  considerations,  the  '‘father  of  wateis’  seems 
fairly  entitled  to  his  name. 

The  Missouri  has  a course  of  between  4 and  500  miles  in  this  state, 
and  the  whole  of  the  remainder  in  the  territory  of  Missouri.  It  seems 
proper,  therefore,  that  we  should  give  a general  description  of  this  river, 
as  belonging  to  this  state.  Its  prodigious  length  of  course,  its  uncommon 
turbidness,  its  impetuous  and  wild  character,  and  the  singular  country 
through  which  it  runs,  impart  to  it  a natural  grandeur  belonging  to  the 


MISSOURI* 


301 


sublime.  We  have  never  crossed  it,  without  experiencing  a feeling  of 
that  sort ; nor  without  a stretch  of  the  imagination,  to  trace  it  along  its 
immense  distances,  through  its  distant  regions  to  the  lonely  and  stupen- 
dous mountain's  from  which  it  springs. 

It  rises  in  the  Rocky  Mountains,  nearly  in  the  same  parallel  with  the 
Mississippi.  The  most  authentic  information  of  the  sources  of  this 
mighty  river,  is  from  its  first  intrepid  American  discoverers,  Lewis  and 
Clarke.  What  may  properly  be  called  the  Missouri,  seems  to  be  formed 
by  three  considerable  branches,  which  unite  not  far  from  the  bases  of  the 
principal  ranges  of  the  mountains.  To  the  northern  they  gave  the  name 
of  Jefferson,  to  the  middle,  Gallatin,  and  to  the  southern,  Madison  — 
Each  of  these  branches  fork  again  into  a number  of  small  mountain 
streams.  It  is  but  a short  distance  from  some  of  these  to  the  head  waters 
of  the  Columbia,  on  the  other  side  of  the  mountains.  A person  may 
drink  from  the  spring  sources  of  each,  without  travelling  more  than  a 
mile.  After  this  junction,  the  river  continues  a considerable  distance  to 
be  still  a foaming  mountain  torrent.  It  then  spreads  into  a broad  and 
comparatively  gentle  stream  full  of  islands.  Precipitous  peaks  of  black- 
ish rock  frown  over  the  river,  in  perpendicular  elevations  of  1,000  feet. 
The  mountains,  whose  bases  it  sweeps,  are  covered  with  terebinthines, 
such  as  pines,  cedars,  and  firs ; and  mountain  sheep  are  seen  bounding  on 
their  summits,  where  they  are  apparently  inaccessible.  In  this  dis- 
tance the  mountains  have  an  aspect  of  inexpressible  loneliness  and 
grandeur. 

The  river  then  becomes  almost  a continued  cataract  for  a distance  of 
about  17  miles.  In  this  distance  its  perpendicular  descent  is  362  feet. 
The  first  fall  is  98  feet,*  the  second,  19;  the  third,  47;  the  fourth  26. 
It  continues  rapid  for  a long  distance  beyond.  Not  far  below  these  falls, 
enters  Maria’s  River  from  the  north.  This  is  a very  considerable  stream. 
Still  farther  down  on  the  opposite  side,  enter  Dearborn  and  Fancy,  each 
about  150  yards  wide.  Manoles  100,  Big  Horn  100,  Muscle  Shell  100, 
Big  Dry  400,  Dry  100,  Porcupine  112;  all  these  enter  from  the  south 
side.  Below  these  enters  the  Roche  Jaune  or  Yellow  Stone,  probably 
the  largest  tributary  of  the  Missouri.  It  rises  in  the  same  ranges  of 
mountains  with  the  main  river,  and  has  many  points  of  resemblance  to  it. 
It  enters  from  the  south  by  a mouth  850  yards  wide.  It  is  a broad, 
deep, and  sweeping  river;  and  at  its  junction  appears  the  largest  of  the 
two.  Its  course  is  commonly  calculated  at  1,600  miles.  But  the  sizes 
and  lengths  of  all  these  tributaries  are  probably  overrated.  Its  shores, 
for  a long  distance  above  its  entrance,  are  heavily  timbered,  and  its 
bottoms  wide,  and  of  the  finest  soil.  Its  entrance  is  deemed  to  be  1,880 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri;  and  was  selected  by  the  govern- 
ment, as  an  eligible  situation  for  a military  post,  and  an  extensive  settle- 


302 


MISSOURI. 


ment.  White  bears,  elk,  and  mountain  sheep  are  the  principal  animals 
seen  along  this  part  of  the  river. 

At  the  point  of  junction  with  the  Yellow  Stone,  the  Missouri  has  wide 
and  fine  bottoms.  Unfortunately,  its  banks  are  for  the  most  part  destitute 
of  timber,  and  this  for  a long  series  of  years  will  prevent  its  capacity  for 
habitancy.  White  earth  river  from  the  north  is  a small  stream.  Goose 
River,  300  yards  wide,  comes  in  from  the  south  side.  Little  Missouri  is 
shallow  and  rapid,  and  is  about  130  yards  wide.  Knife  River  comes  in 
from  the  south  side,  just  above  the  Mandan  villages.  Cannon  ball  River 
enters  from  the  south  side,  and  is  140  yards  wide.  Winnipenhu,  south 
side.  Sewarserna,  south  side.  Chienne  is  represented  to  be  boatable 
nearly  800  miles,  and  enters  from  the  south  side,  by  a mouth  400  yards 
wide;  Tyber’s  River  enters  from  the  same  side.  White  River,  boatable 
000  miles  south  side,  is  a very  beautiful  stream,  and  has  a mouth  300 
yards  wide.  Poncas,  south  side.  Qui-Courre,  a fine  stream  with  a 
short  course,  south  side,  and  Riviere,  a Jaque , a noted  resort  for  traders 
and  trappers;  White  Stone;  Big  Sioux,  and  Floyd’s  Rivers.  La  Platte 
enters  from  the  south,  and  has  a longer  course,  than  any  other  river  of  the 
Missouri.  It  rises  in  the  same  ranges  of  mountains  with  the  parent 
stream,  and  measured  by  its  meanders,  is  supposed  to  have  a course  of 
2,000  miles,  before  it  joins  that  river.  It  is  nearly  a mile  in  width  as  its 
entrance;  but  is,  at  its  name  imports  shallow, and  not  boatable  except  at 
its  highest  flood.  Nodawa,  north  side.  Little  Platte  north  side.  Kansas, 
is  a large  tributary  from  the  south,  has  a course  of  1,200  miles;  and  is 
boatable  most  of  the  distance.  Blue  Water,  and  two  or  three  small  streams 
below,  come  in  on  the  south  side.  Grand  river  is  a large,  long  and  deep 
stream,  boatable  for  a great  distance,  and  enters  on  the  north  side.  The 
Charatons,  come  in  on  the  same  side.  The  La  Mine  enters  on  the  south 
side.  Bonne  Femme  andManitou,  enter  on  the  north' side,  and  Salt  river 
on  the  south. 

The  Osage,  which  enters  on  the  south  side,  is  a large,  and  very  impor 
tant  stream  of  the  Missouri,  boatable  660  miles,  and  interlocks  with  the 
waters  of  the  Arkansas.  Three  or  four  inconsiderable  streams  enter  on 
the  opposite  side,  as  Miry,  Otter  and- Cedar  rivers.  On  the  south  side  en 
ters  the  Gasconade,  boatable  for  sixty-six  miles,  and  is  important  for  hav 
ing  on  its  banks  extensive  pine  forests,  from  which  the  great  supply  of 
plank  and  timber,  of  that  kind  is  brought  to  St.  Charles  and  St.  Louis, 
On  the  south  side,  below  the  Gasconade  are  a number  of  inconsiderable 
rivers,  as  Buffalo,  St.  John’s,  Wood  River,  and  Bonhomme;  and  on  the 
other  side,  the  Charette,  Femme  Osage,  and  one  or  two  other  small 
branches,  before  it  precipitates  itself  into  the  Mississippi. 

The  bottoms  of  this  river  have  a character,  very  distinguishable  from 
those  of  the  Upper  Missisippi  They  are  higher  not  so  wet,  more  sandy 


MISSOURI. 


303 


with  trees  which  are  not  so  large,  but  taller  and  straighten  Its  alluvions 
something  narrower;  that  is  to  say,  having  for  the  first  live  hundred 
miles  a medial  width  of  something  more  than  four  miles.  Its  bluffs, 
like  those  of  the  other  river,  are  generally  lime  stone,  but  not  so  perpen- 
dicular; and  have  more  tendency  to  run  into  the  mamelle  form.  The 
bottoms  abound  with  deer,  turkeys  and  small  game.  The  river  seldom 
overflows  any  part  of  its  banks,  in  this  distance.  It  is  little  inclined  to  be 
swampy.  There  are  much  fewer  lakes,  bayous,  and  small  ponds,  than 
along  the  Mississippi.  Prairies  are  scarcely  seen  on  the  banks  of  the 
river,  within  the  distance  of  the  first  four  hundred  miles  of  its  course. 
They  are  heavily  timbered,  and  yet  from  the  softness  of  the  wood,  easily 
cleared.  The  water,  though  uncommonly  turbid  with  a whitish  earth, 
which  it  holds  in  suspension,  soon  and  easily  settles,  and  is  then  remark- 
ably pure,  pleasant  and  healthy.  The  river  is  so  rapid  and  sweeping  in 
its  course,  and  its  bed  is  composed  of  such  masses  of  sand,  that  it  is  con- 
tinually shifting  its  sand  bars.  A chart  of  the  river,  as  it  runs  this  year, 
gives  little  ground  for  calculation  in  navigating  it  the  next.  It  has  nu- 
merous islands,  and  generally  near  them  is  the  most  difficult  to  be  stem- 
med. Still  more  than  the  Mississippi  below  its  mouth,  it  tears  up  in  one 
place,  and  deposits  in  another;  and  makes  more  powerful  and  frequent 
changes  in  its  channel,  than  any  other  western  river. 

Its  bottoms  are  considerably  settled  for  a distance  of  four  hundred 
miles  above  its  mouth.  That  of  Charaton  is  the  highest  compact  settle- 
ment. But  the  largest  and  most  populous  settlement  in  the  state  is  that 
called  Boone’s  Lick  or  Franklin  county.  Indeed,  there  are  American 
settlers,  here  and  there,  on  the  bottoms,  above  Platte,  and  far  beyond  the 
limits  of  the  state  of  Missouri.  Above  the  Platte  the  open  and  prairie 
character  of  the  country  begins  to  develope.  The  prairies  come  quite  in 
to  the  banks  of  the  river;  and  stretch  from  it  indefinitely,  in  naked  grass 
plains,  where  the  traveller  may  wander  for  days,  without  seeing  either 
wood  or  water.  The  6 Council  Bluffs’  are  an  important  military  station, 
about  six  hundred  miles  up  the  Missouri.  Beyond  this  point  commen- 
ces a country  of  great  interest  and  grandeur  and  denominated,  by  way  of 
eminence,  the  Upper  Missouri.  The  country  is  composed  of  vast  and  al- 
most boundless  grass  plains,  through  which  stretch  the  Platte,  the  Yellow 
Stone,  and  the  other  rivers  of  this  ocean  of  grass.  The  savages  of  this 
region  have  a peculiar  physiognomy  and  modes  of  life.  It  is  a country, 
where  commence  new  tribes  of  plants.  It  is  the  home  of  buffaloes,  elk, 
white  bears,  antelopes  and  mountain  sheep.  Sometimes  the  river  washes 
the  bases  of  the  dark  hill  of  a friable  and  crumbling  soil.  Here  are  found, 
as  Lewis  and  Clark,  and  other  respectable  travellers  relate,  large  and  sin- 
gular petrifactions,  both  animal  and  vegetable  On  the  top  of  one  of 


304 


MISSOURI. 


these  hills  they  found  the  petrified  skeleton  of  a huge  fish,  forty  five  feet 
in  length.  The  herds  of  the  gregarious  animals,  particularly  the  buffaloes, 
are  innumerable.  Such  is  the  general  character  of  the  country,  until  we 
come  in  contact  with  the  spurs  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

As  far  as  the  limits  of  the  state,  this  river  is  capable  of  supporting  a 
dense  population,  for  a considerable  distance  from  its  banks.  Above 
those  limits  it  is  generally  too  destitute  of  wood,  to  become  habitable  by 
any  other  people,  than  hunters  and  shepherds.  All  the  great  tributaries 
of  this  river  are  copies,  more,  or  less  exact,  of  the  parent  stream.  One 
general  remark  applies  to  the  whole  country.  The  rivers  have  narrow 
margins  of  fertility.  The  country  as  it  recedes  from  the  river,  becomes 
more  and  more  arid,  sandy  and  destitute  of  water,  until  it  approximates 
in  character  the  sandy  deserts  of  Arabia. 

The  Osage,  is  one  of  the  principal  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  in  this 
state.  It  comes  in  on  the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  one  hundred  and 
thirty  miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi.  At  its  mouth  it  is 
nearly  four  hundred  yards  wide.  Its  general  course  is  from  south  to 
north;  and  the  best  cotton  country  in  the  state  of  Missouri  is  on  its  head 
waters.  Its  principal  branches  are  Mary’s,  Big  Bone,  Yungar,  Potatoe, 
and  Grand  Fork  rivers.  Yungar  is  nearly  as  large,  as  the  parent  stream; 
and  is  navigable  for  small  crafts,  except  at  its  grand  cascade,  for  nearly 
an  hundred  miles.  The  cascade  is  a great  cataract  of  ninety  feet  fall. 
When  the  river  is  full,  the  roar  is  heard  far  through  the  desert.  It  is  a fine 
country,  through  which  the  river  runs.  The  banks  are  timbered,  and 
abound  with  game,  particularly  bears.  An  interesting  missionary  station 
is  situated  on  its  waters.  This  station  is  under  the  care  of  the  4 Ameri" 
can  Board  of  Foreign  Missions,’  and  has  many  Indian  children  in  its 
school;  and  it  is  in  a flourishing  condition.  The  Maramec  is  a beautiful 
river,  which  runs  through  the  mineral  region, -and  enters  the  Mississippi 
eighteen  miles  below  St.  Louis.  It  is  between  two  and  three  hundred 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth ; and  beatable  in  time  of  high  waters  200  miles. 
Big  river,  Bourbon,  and  Negro  Fork  are  branches  of  this  river,  which  in 
their  turn  are  fed  by  numerous  mountain  streams.  Bonhomme  is  an  in- 
considerable. stream,  and  enters  the  Missouri  twenty-eight  miles  above  its 
mouth.  We  have  already  named  the  Gasconade,  so  important  to  this 
country  from  the  supplies  of  pine  plank  and  lumber,  with  which  it  fur- 
nishes the  country  below  it.  There  is  a great  number  of  considerable 
streams,  which  enters  the  Missouri  and  the  Mississippi  from  the  south, 
whose  names  we  have  already  mentioned.  The  principal  are  the  swash- 
ing, Gabourie,  Saline  and  Apple  Creek.  St  Francis  and  White  River 
with  their  numerous  branches  rise  in  this  state.  Above  St.  Louis  on  the 
eastern  limits  of  the  state,  a number  of  considerable  rivers  enter  the 


MISSOURI. 


305 


Upper  Mississippi*  as  Dardenne,  Cuivre,  Salt  River,  and  Two  Rivers.— 
Of  these,  Salt  River  is  the  most  considerable,  having  a boatable  course  of 
40  or  50  miles.  This  river  waters  as  fine  a tract  of  country  as  any  in  the 
stale.  The  lands  are  also  excellent  about  Two  Rivers.  There  are  fifty 
other  streams  in  the  state  that,  in  the  winter  carry  considerable  water,  and 
in  summer  become  dry.  This  circumstance,  common  to  the  smaller 
streams  over  all  the  west,  is  peculiarly  so  here,  where  the  intense  ardor  of 
the  summer’s  sun,  the  sandy  nature  of  the  soil,  the  unfrequency  of  sum- 
mer rains, the  dryness  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  untimbered  and  open  face  of 
the  country,  all  conspire  to  dry  up  all  streams,  but  those  that  are  supplied 
by  perennial  springs,  or  by  continued  ranges  of  high  hills.  From  this 
cause,  and  from  the  levelness  of  the  general  face  of  the  country,  mill 
seats,  commanding  a lasting  water  power,  are  uncommon.  It  is  well 
known,  that  western  husbandmen  universally  prefer  a spring  to  a well, 
where  they  can  obtain  the  one  or  the  other.  It  is  considered  an  essential 
requisite,  in  the  capability  of  a tract  of  land  to  be  settled,  that  it  should 
have  a spring  on  it.  There  are,  however,  large  tracts  of  the  richest  land 
in  this  state  so  level,  as  to  be  incapable  of  springs ; and  here  the  farmers 
are  obliged  to  resort  to  wells. 

Game,  fyc.  The  hunter  will  find  in  no  country  a finer  field  for  his 
pursuits.  In  the  unsettled  parts  bears  are  still  sufficiently  common  to  be 
hunted,  as  an  employment.  The  oil  of  the  bear  is  an  article  of  extensive 
culinary  use.  Deer  are,  in  some  places,  almost  as  numerous. as  the  do- 
mestic cattle.  Wild  turkeys  furnish  admirable  sport  to  the  gunner.  In 
the  last  of  autumn  and  the  first  of  winter,  prairie  hens  are  seen  in  flocks. 
Partridges  are  frequent  all  the  year.  Squirrels,  ground-hogs,  wood-chucks, 
and  raccoons  abound.  Wolves,  panthers,  and  wild  cats  are  but  too  com- 
mon. In  all  the  considerable  rivers  fish  are  abundant.  But  they  are 
generally  large,  coarse,  and  of  an  inferior  quality. 

Chief  Towns.  St.  Louis  is  the  commercial  capital  of  Missouri,  and 
the  largest  town  west  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  situated  18  miles  below 
the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  between  30  and  40  below  the  mouth  of 
Illinois,  and  nearly  200  above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  Nature  seldom 
offers  a more  delightful  site  for  a town.  In  many  respects,  it  resembles 
that  of  Albany  in  New  York.  It  is  on  a kind  of  second  bottom,  that 
rises  gently  from  the  water  to  a second  bank.  The  ascent  to  this  is  not 
at  all  precipitous.  Having  surmounted  this  bank,  an  extensive  plain 
opens  to  view.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town,  this  plain  is  cov- 
ered with  bushes  and  shrub  oaks.  Beyond  is  an  extensive  belt  of  grassy 
plain,  or  naked  prairie.  The  timber  within  nine  or  ten  miles  has  been  cut 
away  for  fuel.  In  summer  the  eye  reposes  with  pleasure  upon  this  sweep 
of  verdure,  bounded  on  the  verge  of  the  horizon  with  forests.  But  in 

39 


306 


MISSOURI, 


winter  the  prospect  is  bleak  and  desolate.  The  eye  always  dwells  with 
delight  upon  the  level  bottom  and  the  noble  forest  upon  the  opposite 
shore  of  the  river.  In  1814  there  were  but  few  American  houses  in  the 
place.  There  were  a few  stone  houses  covered  with  plaster.  The  cir- 
cular stone  forts  beyond  the  town,  white  with  plaster,  and  the  hoariness 
of  age,  together  with  the  whiteness  of  the  houses  in  general,  from  the 
French  fashion  of  annual  white-washing,  gave  the  town  a romantic  and 
imposing  appearance,  when  seen  from  a distance.  With  the  exception  of 
two  or  three  aristocratic  establishments,  when  contemplated  near  at  hand, 
the  houses  were  mean,  frail,  and  uncomfortable  establishments.  The 
streets  were  narrow  and  dirty,  and  it  was  in  fact  a disagreeable  town  — 
A new  impulse  was  given  to  the  town  by  American  laws,  enterprize  and 
occupancy.  Most  of  the  houses  that  have  been  added  within  the  last  ten 
years,  have  been  of  brick  or  stone.  Some  of  the  public  buildings  are 
handsome.  There  are  two  respectable  protestant  churches.  The  catholic 
cathedral  was  intended  to  be  a magnificent  structure.  It  is  not  yet  com- 
pleted. A spacious  town  house  is  a great  ornament  to  the  city.  The  town 
has  extended  itself  along  the  hill,  and  some  of  the  best  houses  are  on  that 
delightful  elevation.  The  houses,  in  1820,  were  reckoned  at  more  than 
600.  By  the  census  of  1830  it  contained  2,503  free  males;  1,889  free 
females;  1,668  slaves;  287  free  persons  of  color.  Total  6,694.  The 
town  was  then  stationary,  or  perhaps  retrograde.  But  since  that  time  the 
lead  business  has  been  reanimated  by  a protecting  duty  upon  foreign  lead. 
The  fur  trade  has  received  a new  impulse.  The  town  has  recovered  from 
the  shock  caused  by  the  failure  of  its  Banks.  It  has  at  present  a branch 
of  the  United  States  Bank.  A healthy  circulation  has  been  restored, 
and  the  town  is  now  rapidly  increasing  in  business  and  population.  In 
the  year  1818,  100  houses  were  added  to  the  place.  The  principal  street 
is  more  than  a mile  in  length.  Three  or  four  gazettes  are  printed  here. 
There  is  an  Academy,  a Catholic  seminary,  and  a number  of  respectable 
schools.  The  French  have  communicated  to  the  people  a taste  for  gar- 
dening; and  there  are  a number  of  very  handsome  gardens  in  and  about 
the  town.  Very  few  towns  in  the  United  States,  or  the  world,  have  a 
more  mixed  population.  Among  the  original  inhabitants,  there  is  no  in- 
considerable sprinkling  of  Indian  blood.  The  American  population 
predominates  over  the  French;  and  is  made  up  of  immigrants  from  all 
the  states.  It  is  a central  point  in  the  Mississippi  valley  for  immigrants, 
and  adventurers  of  every  character.  Making  due  allowance  for  this  cir- 
cumstance, the  people  are  generally  quiet  and  descent  in  their  manners. 
Many  adventurers  come  here,  and  find  themselves  in  a position  to  claim 
a standing  in  society,  which  they  have  not  been  accustomed  to  possess. 
Hence  the  occasions  for  broils,  from  supposed  neglect,  contempt,  or 


MISSOURI. 


307 


questioning  of  character  are  numerous,-  and  fatal  rencontres,  denominated 
^affairs  of  honor,’  are  a bloody  stain  upofl  the  character  of  the  place. — 
There  is  a Presbyterian,  Baptist,  Methodist,  and  Catholic  Society  in  the 
town;  and  the  institutions  oT religion  are  beginning  to  have  considerable 
effect  upon  the  manners  and  moral  character  of  the  people.  Whoever 
observes  the  position  of  this  town  on  the  map,  will  see,  #Kat  it  is  very 
favorably  situated  to  become  a town  of  supply  of  merchandise  to  a vast 
tract  of  country.  In  the  centre  of  the  Mississippi  valley*  commanding 
the  trade  of  the  Missouri,  the  Upper  Mississippi,  and  the  Illinois,  the 
capital  of  a very  extensive  fur  trade,  and  the  depot  for  as  rich  lead  mines 
as  are  in  the  world,  it  must  necessarily  become  a large  town.  It  has  one 
obvious  advantage  over  any  town  on  the  Ohio.  Steam  boats  can  corfte 
to  St.  Louis  from  New  Orleans,  at  the  lowest  stage's  of  the  water.  It  is 
very  common  for  travellers  from  the  Atlantic  country,  who  are  bound  in 
the  autumn  to  New  Orleans,  to  take  passage  from  Cincinnati  across  the 
country  to  St.  Louis,  in  order  to  avail  themselves  of  the  advantage  of  a 
direct  passage  to  New  Orleans  in  a steam  boat.  The  lowness  of  the 
water  in  the  Ohio,  and  the  difficulty  of  passing  over  the  falls  at  Louisville, 
render  a direct  steam  boat  passage  from  Cincinnati  to  New  Orleans,  at 
that  season  of  the  year,  an  uncommon  occurrence,  A great  number  of 
keel  boats,  and  river  crafts  of  all  descriptions,  bound  to  all  points  of  the 
beatable  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  are  seen  at  all  seasons  lying  in  the 
harbor  at  St.  Louis.  Miners,  trappers,  hunters,  adventurers,  immigrants, 
and  people  of  all  characters  and  languages,  with  all  kinds  of  views  and 
objects,  meet  here,  and  in  pursuit  of  their  various  projects,  scatter  hence  to 
the  remotest  points  of  the  valley.  The  moral  character  of  this  town,  so 
rapidly  approaching  the  rank  and  consequence  of  a city,  is  rising.  It 
still  furnishes  a temporary  home  to  desperate  and  abandoned  characters, 
who  hope,  in  crossing  the  Mississippi,  to  fly  beyond  law  and  conscience. 
The  character  of  the  permanent  inhabitants  is  respectable.  Good  regu- 
lations of  every  sort  are  advancing.  The  Sabbath  is  respected;  and  a 
wholesome  police  is  establishing.  Such  a stream  of  immigrants  is  con- 
tinually pouring  in,  and  the  people  have  so  learned  the  habit  of  distrust, 
that  hospitality  to  strangers  is  not  a characteristic  of  the  people. 

St.  Genevieve  is  situated  at  the  upper  extremity  of  a beautiful  alluvial 
prairie,  about  a mile  west  of  the  Mississippi.  It  is  built  on  the  Gabourie,  a 
small  creek  which  is  occasionally  boatable.  The  town  contains  a Catholic 
church,  some  neat  French  houses,  a great  many  indifferent  ones  and  but  few 
American  establishments.  The  situation  of  the  village  is  happy.  Much 
lead  is  brought  here  for  exportation ; and  yet  the  town  does  not  appear  to 
thrive,  not  possessing  more  inhabitants  than  it  did  30  years  ago.  The 
present  number  is  about  1,500.  The  prairie  below  the  town  is  of  extreme 


MISSOURI, 


30$ 

'fertility,  containing  6,000  acres,  fenced  and  cultivated  in  common.  On 
the  hill,  west  of  the  town,  is  a handsome  building  erected  for  an  academy. 
From  this  place  is  a magnificent  view  of  the  village,  the  bluffs  above,  the 
prairie  below,  and  the  Mississippi  sweeping  along  in  the  distance.  The 
Catholic  worship  is  the  prevailing  one;  and  the  inhabitants  are  principally 
French. 

Jackson,  the  county  town  of  Cape  Girardeau  county,  twelve  miles 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  is  a respectable  village,  containing  100  houses, 
some  of  them  handsomely  built  of  brick.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  one  of 
the  most  populous  and  thriving  counties  in  the  state. 

Cape  Girardeau  is  on  a beautiful  bluff  on  the  Mississippi,  50  miles 
above  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio.  It  has  a fine  harbor  for  boats,  and  com- 
mands a noble  view  of  the  river  above  and  below.  It  exhibits  symptoms 
of  decay.  About  this  town,  that  beautiful  tree,  called  yellow  poplar,  or 
tulipifera  liriodendron,  attains  its  utmost  developement.  Potosi  is  the 
county  town  of  Washington,  and  the  centre  of  the  mine  district.  It  is 
situated  in  a pleasant  valley,  surrounded  by  hills,  65  miles  south-west 
from  St.  Louis,  and  45  west  from  St.  Genevieve.  St.  Michael  is  an  old 
French  village  among  the  mines.  There  are  a number  of  other  small 
villages  in  the  mine  district.  Herculaneum  is  situated  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  30  miles  below  St.  Louis,  on  a narrow  alluvial  plain, 
hemmed  in  on  all  sides,  but  the  river,  by  high  and  romantic  bluffs,  ren- 
dered still  more  imposing  by  a number  of  shot  towers  placed  on  their 
summits.  This  is  the  chief  place  of  deposit  for  the  lead  of  the  lead  mines. 
New  Madrid  is  situated  on  the  Mississippi,  50  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio.  This  small  village  was  once  much  more  considerable  than  it  now 
is.  It  is  memorable  for  the  romantic  history  of  its  origin  under  General 
Morgan  in  the  times  of  the  Spanish  regime,  and  for  the  terrible  earth- 
quakes which  it  experienced  in  1811  and  1812,  These  earthquakes  were 
more  severe  than  any  on  the  records  of  our  part  of  the  continent.  The 
western  country  was  shook  in  every  direction.  Thousands  of  acres  were 
sunk,  and  multitudes  of  lakes  and  ponds  were  created.  The  church 
yard  of  this  village,  with  all  its  sleeping  tenants,  was  precipitated  into 
the  river.  The  trees  lashed  together,  were  thrown  down,  or  benfc  in 
every  direction.  The  earth  burst,  in  what  were  called  sand  blows. — 
Earth,  sand,  and  water  were  thrown  up  to  great  heights  in  the  air.  The 
river  was  dammed  up,  and  flowed  backwards.  Birds  descended  from  the 
air,  and  took  shelter  in  the  bosoms  of  people  that  were  passing.  The 
whole  country  was  inundated.  A great  number  of  boats,  passing  on  the 
river,  were  sunk.  One  or  two,  that  were  fastened  to  islands,  were  sunk 
with  the  islands.  The  country  was  but  sparsely  peopled,  and  most  of 
the  buildings,  fortunately,  were  cabins,  or  of  logs;  and  from  these  cir- 


MISSOURI. 


309 


eumstances,  few  people  perished.  No  country  can  recount  a history  of 
earthquakes,  attended  with  more  terrific  circumstances  of  commotion  in 
the  elements,  and  threatening  more  exterminating  war  with  man  and 
nature,  than  this.  The  thriving  country  about  this  village  was  desolated ; 
and  as  the  earthquakes  continued  in  gentler  shocks,  and  have  not  ceased 
even  to  this  time,  there  seemed  to  be  good  reason  for  abandoning  the 
country.  The  people  are  becoming  more  assured  with  respect  to  the 
future,  and  New  Madrid  is  gradually  emerging  from  its  prostration. 

There  is  a large  and  fine  tract  of  alluvial  ano  prairie  country  fyack  of 
this  village.  The  Big  Prairie,  about  twelve  miles  distant,  is  a charming 
spot  for  farmers.  But  from  the  number  of  lakes,  created  by  the  earth- 
quakes, and  from  the  extent  of  the  swampy  and  inundated  country  in  its 
vicinity,  the  country  about  New  Madrid  has  the  reputation  of  being  un- 
healthy. A bayou,  that  enters  the  river  just  above  the  village,  creates  a 
great  eddy  and  an  admirable  harbor;  and  New  Madrid  is  next  to  Natchez, 
the  most  noted  landing  place  for  boats  on  the  Mississippi  above  N.  Orleans. 

St.  Charles  on  the  Missouri  is  a pleasant  village  of  about  1,200  inhab- 
itants. There  is  one  long  street,  on  which  are  a number  of  handsome 
brick  buildings.  It  is  situated  twenty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri,  and  the  same  distance  north-west  of  St.  Louis.  The  banks  be- 
tween the  village  and  the  river  are  of  solid  lime  stone;  and  above  the 
village  we  ascend  by  amoderate  acclivity  to  a beautiful  plateau  of  great  ex- 
tent. These  bluffs  command  a noble  view  of  the  Missouri  and  its  islands- 
Back  of  the  village  is  a large  extent  of  level  country,  covered  with  liazle 
copses,  yielding  abundance  of  wild  hops,  grapes  and  prairie  plums.  Two 
miles  below  the  town,  opens  the  beautiful  Point  Prairie.  We  know  of  no 
place  in  the  western  country,  that  has  a more  interesting  country  adjoin- 
ing it,  than  this  village.  There  is  a protestant  and  a catholic  church 
here.  It  was  for  a number  of  years  the  political  metropolis  of  the  state. 
There  are  fine  farms  in  the  vicinity,  and  the  inhabitants  are  noted  for 
their  sober  and  orderly  habits.  About  one  third  of  them  are  French. 
Carondelet  is  a small  French  village,  six  miles  below  St.  Louis.  Many 
of  the  garden  vegetables,  sold  in  St.  Louis  market,  are  raised  here.  Troy 
Louisianaville  and  Petersburg  are  small  villages  on  the  Upper  Mississippi 
and  its  waters.  Jefferson,  a new  town  above  the  mouth  of  the  Osage  on 
the  south  side  of  the  Missouri,  since  the  seat  of  government  was  removed 
there,  has  become  the  position  of  the  public  buildings;  but  not  being  a 
fortunate  selection,  has  not  greatly  prospered.  Franklin  is  situated  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Missouri,  150  miles  by  land  above  St.  Louis,  and 
more  than  200  by  the  river.  It  is  estimated  to  contain  over  200  houses; 
and  about  one  thousand  two  hundred  inhabitants.  It  is  surrounded 
by  the  largest  body  of  rich  land  in  the  state;  and  is  the  centre 


310 


MISSOURI, 


of  a populous  region  of  rich  and  respectable  farmers.  Boonville,  opposite 
Franklin,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Missouri,  was  originally  settled  by 
Col.  Boone,  the  patriarch  of  Kentucky.  Charaton  is  a small  village  at 
the  mouth  of  a river  of  the  same  name.  Bluffton  is  a village  upon  the 
same  side  of  the  river,  and  still  higher  on  it,  being  in  fact,  but  a little  dis- 
tance within  the  western  territorial  limits  of  the  state. 

Constitution , haws , Sfc.  This  state  adopted  her  constitution, and  was 
admitted  into  the  union  in  1820.  In  its  general  features  it  resembles 
those  of  the  other  slates.  The  senators  are  elected  foi*  four  years,  and 
the  representatives  for  two.  The  governor  is  elected  for  four  years. 
The  judiciary  is  vested  in  a supreme  court,  a chancellor’s  court,  and  cir- 
cuit, and  other  subordinate  courts,  the  judges  of  which  hold  their  offices, 
during  good  behaviour.  Every  free  citizen,  who  has  resided  a year  in 
the  stale,  and  the  last  three  months  preceding  the  election,  in  the  dis- 
trict, is  entitled  to  his  vote  in  that  district.  It  is  well  known,  that  the 
article  which  allowed  slavery,  in  the  constitution,  was  long  and  bitterly 
contested  in  the  national  legislature. 

Manners , S$c.  The  same  provisions  are  made  for  education,  as  in 
most  of  the  other  western  states.  In  the  towns  and  villages  there  are 
respectable  schools;  and  the  people  generally  are  impressed  with  the 
importance  and  necessity  of  educating  their  children.  But  there  are 
too  many  rude  and  ignorant  people  here,  as  in  all  the  western  country, 
who  affirm  that  they  have  been  enabled  to  go  through  life  comfortably, 
without  education;  and  that  their  children  are  as  able  to  do  so,  as  they 
were.  There  are  schools,  dignified  with  the  name  of  academies,  in  dif- 
ferent parts  of  the  state.  The  Catholics  have  two  or  three  establish- 
ments of  religious , who  receive  young  ladies  for  instruction.  There  is  a 
theological  school  of  some  distinction  in  the  barrens  below  St.  Genevieve 
for  the  preparation  of  Catholic  eleves  for  the  ministry.  In  St.  Louis  society 
exhibits  the  same  aspect  as  in  other  towns  of  a like  size  in  the  United 
States.  It  must  be  admitted  that  in  the  interior  there  is  a perceptible 
shade  of  the  roughness  of  people,  who  are  far  removed  from  the  bosom 
of  society.  The  roughness  of  the  backwoodsmen  is  often,  however, 
accompanied  with  an  open  hospitality,  an  honest  simplicity,  a genuine 
kindness  of  heart,  which  render  a residence  among  them  quite  as  pleasant, 
as  in  those  regions,  where  observance,  and  public  opinion  have  created  a 
greater  degree  of  apparent  refinement.  It  might  be  expected,  that  a 
country  almost  boundless,  with  few  barriers  of  law,  or  local  limits  of 
habitancy  and  property,  an  extent  of  nearly  1,000  leagues  towards  the 
Western  Sea,  would  be  the  natural  resort  of  wild  and  adventurous  spirits, 
whose  object  was,  as  they  often  express  it,  to  fly  ‘ beyond  Sabbath .’  It  is 
so  in  fact.  But  there  is  more  order  and  quietness,  regulated  society,  and 


MISSOURI* 


311 


correct  public  opinion*  than  in  such  a state  of  things  we  should  have  a 
right  to  expect.  There  is  an  increasing  number  of  religious  societies* 
among  which  the  Methodists  are  the  most  numerous.  The  Presbyterians 
and  Baptists  have  also  many  congregations  and  churches.  The  Cumber- 
land Presbyterians  are  making  considerable  progress.  The  French  and 
Irish  people  are  for  the  most  part  Catholics.  The  number  of  Catholic 
congregations,  probably,  exceeds  that  of  any  particular  denomination  of 
the  Protestants.  The  spirit  of  religious  tolerance  prevails  to  an  excellent 
degree.  Neighbors  and  relatives  worship  in  churches  of  different  de- 
nominations, without  disturbing  the  intercourse  of  common  life. 

The  French  of  this  country  have  their  characteristic  national  manners, 
and  are  the  same  gay  and  happy  people.  Those  among  them,  that  have 
standing,  wealth,  and  education,  show  no  other  differences  of  character 
from  the  same  classes  of  other  nations,  except  such  as  result  from  their 
national  temperament  and  manners.  The  poorer  French  have  an  unique 
and  peculiar  character.  They  were  born  in  the  woods,  or  at  least  far 
from  society.  They  have  been  accustomed  from  infancy  rather  to  the 
life  of  huntsmen,  trappers,  and  boatmen,  than  of  husbandmen.  They 
generally  make  indifferent  farmers.  Their  cabin  indeed  shows  well  at  a 
distance;  and  the  mud  daubing  is  carefully  white  washed.  They  have 
gardens  neatly  laid  out,  and  kept  clean  of  weeds.  Beyond  this  the  es- 
tablishments of  the  petits  paysans  are  generally  sterile  and  comfortless. 
Their  ancestors  were  accustomed  to  continual  intercourse  with  the  savages, 
and  in  habits  of  travelling  many  hundred  leagues  from  their  habitations 
in  canoes,  or  on  the  banks  of  the  streams,  to  hunt,  procure  furs  and  honey, 
or  to  traffic  with  the  Indians.  They  were  accustomed  to  the  prompt  and 
despotic  mandate  of  a commandant.  They  were  prepared  to  entertain 
but  very  inadequate  ideas  of  the  inestimable  value  of  the  mild,  but  pro- 
tracted dispensation  of  justice  in  our  courts.  They  regarded  our  laws 
as  a bottomless  gulf;  and  had,  for  a long  time  after  they  came  under  our 
government,  a salutary  dread  of  a proces , which  had  a happy  influence, 
to  deter  them  from  litigation.  Familiarity  with  our  decisions  has  gradu- 
ally lessened  this  dread ; and  when  they  once  acquire  a passion  for  litiga- 
tion, they  are  more  keen  in  pursuit  of  their  object,  than  the  Americans. 
It  is  an  unpleasant  reflection,  that  while  we  have  given  them  political 
consideration,  and  learned  them  the  value  of  land,  and  the  necessity  of 
cultivation,  the  comforts  of  municipal  life,  and  the  importance  of  educa- 
tion, we  have  also  communicated  to  them  a passion  for  litigation,  and  a 
fondness  for  ardent  spirits.  They  are  intermarrying  and  amalgamating 
with  the  Anglo-Americans.  But  even  yet,  on  entering  a village,  com- 
posed of  equal  divisions  of  French  and  American  population,  the  French 
are  seen,  as  a distinct  people,  by  their  stature,  gait,  complexion,  houses, 


312 


MISSOURI. 


and  the  appearance  of  their  children.  They  are  smaller  in  stature; 
have  a different  costume,  walk  quicker^  have  more  meagre  forms,  and 
more  tanned  and  sallow  complexions.  They  bow  with  more  grace — are 
more  fluent  in  conversation,  and  these  are  almost  universal  traits.  The 
Kentuckian,  who  lives  beside  them,  is  heavier,  has  a rounder  and  fuller 
face,  a more  clear  and  ruddy  complexion,  bows  less  gracefully,  or  perhaps 
not  at  all.  He  pays  no  compliments.  But  we  place  greater  reliance 
upon  his  word  and  the  sincerity  of  his  friendship.  The  wives  of 
the  French  of  this  class  are  accustomed  to  more  drudgery  and  submis- 
sion, than  those  of  their  American  neighbors,  and  there  is  a much  nearer 
assimilation  to  Indian  thoughts  and  habits,  than  there  is  in  our  people. 
They  are  slow  in  adopting  our  improvements  in  dress,  agriculture,  and 
all  that  concerns  their  domestic  establishment.  They  are  strongly  at- 
tached to  the  ways  of  their  forefathers;  and  are  generally  bigotted  Cath- 
olics. They  have  the  national  gaitie  du  coeur , the  French  enviable 
cheerfulness  under  all  circumstances.  They  are  generally  temperate  and 
sober;  and  from  their  manner  of  life  better  calculated  to  endure  the  ex- 
tremes of  heat  and  cold,  than  the  Americans.  They  support  the  vicissi- 
tudes of  climate  better;  and  are  not  so  much  exposed  to  diseases  of  the 
country.  They  make  excellent  boatsmen,  huntsmen,  and  coureurs  du 
bois.  Their  fondness  for  conversation  and  traccaserie  prevents  their 
living  in  detached  and  solitary  houses,  like  the  Americans,  and  they  gen- 
erally fix  themselves  in  compact  villages. 

The  Catholic  worship  has  the  same  hold  of  their  affections,  which  it 
had  of  the  hearts  of  their  forefathers,  two  centuries  ago.  Their  venera- 
tion for  their  priests  is  unlimited;  and  the  latter  dare  rely  upon  a credu- 
lity, which,  in  other  Catholic  countries,  has  long  since  passed  away. — 
For  instance,  they  had,  not  many  years  since,  processions  to  pray  the 
Mississippi  down,  when  it  threatened  a desolating  inundation,  and  to 
banish  the  locusts  by  the  intercession  of  the  saints.  So  firmly  are  they 
fixed  in  their  religious  opinions,  that  they  are  apt  to  regard  protestant 
efforts  to  convert  them,  not  as  arrogant  only,  but  impious.  To  all  attempts 
which  protestant  missionaries  have  made,  to  change  them  to  our  faith, 
they  find  a reply,  but  too  unanswerable,  in  the  dissipated  and  immoral 
life  of  their  protestant  neighbors. 

History.  The  general  annals  of  Upper  Louisiana  have  already  been 
given.  St.  Louis  was  founded  in  1764,  by  Pierre  Laclade,  Maxan  and 
company.  The  principal  inhabitants  were  from  Canada.  It  was  con- 
ceived to  be  a favorable  point  for  concentrating  the  fur  and  Indian  trade 
of  the  upper  and  lower  Missouri  and  Mississippi.  Among  the  first  and 
most  respectable  settlers,  was  M.  Choteau,  a name  still  respectable  in  the 
country.  In  1776,  this  village  received  a large  accession  of  inhabitants 


MISSOURI. 


313 


from  the  opposite  shore  of  the  Mississippi,  of  people,  who  preferred  the 
regime  of  Spain  to  England.  Hunting,  trapping,  and  trading  with  the 
Indians,  was  the  great  business  of  the  country.  Spain  expended  great 
sums  of  money  in  the  country,  and  drew  little  or  nothing  from  it.— 
Those  who  chose  to  immigrate  there,  could  obtain  a settlement  right  of 
640  acres  for  a trifling  douceur  to  the  commandant,  and,  provided  they 
yielded  a decent  observance  to  the  existing  institutions  of  the  country, 
the  Spanish  yoke  sat  very  lightly  on  their  shoulders.  There  were  few 
countries  in  which  the  people  lived  more  happily,  and  to  their  own  minds, 
than  this,  until  the  attack  from  Michilimackinack,  called  in  the  annals  of 
French  tradition,  Vannee  du  coup.  After  that  attack,  St.  Louis  was  for- 
tified with  those  circular  stone  bastions,  that  at  present  give  the  town 
such  a picturesque  appearance  in  the  distance.  From  St.  Louis  the 
French  hive  swarmed  to  Carondelet,  St.  Ferdinand,  St.  Charles,  Mine  a 
Burton,  St.  Michael’s,  Cote  sans  dessein,  and  French  trading  and  hunting 
establishments  were  made  almost  to  the  bases  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  country  continued  gradually  to  settle,  until,  as  has  been  related,  it 
passed  under  the  American  government.  The  proudest  eulogium  that  ever 
was  uttered  upon  that  government,  was  the  immediate  rise  in  the  value  of 
lands,  consequent  upon  this  transaction.  French  people,  who  were  in  the 
habit  of  complaining  of  this  transfer,  and  of  our  laws,  were  not  the 
less  willing  to  take  advantage  of  the  immediate  and  triple  value,  which 
their  lands  acquired.  The  settlement  rights,  which  had  been  acquired 
under  the  Spanish  regime  almost  for  asking,  became  at  once  a competent 
fortune  to  their  owners.  Immigration  was  discouraged  by  the  sickly  sea- 
son of  1811,  commonly  called  the  ‘year  of  waters.’  The  late  war,  too, 
effectually  repressed  the  increase  of  the  country.  Many  settlements,  as 
that  of  Boone’s  Lick,  and  Salt  River  were  broken  up.  The  French  seemed 
in  many  instances  rather  disposed  to  take  part  with  the  Indians.  But  in 
the  progress  of  the  war,  the  indiscriminate  savage  appetite  for  slaughter 
finally  impelled  the  savages  to  commit  murders  in  the  French  villages ; and 
this  circumstance  induced  a hearty  co-operation  with  the  other  population 
in  punishing  savage  aggressions.  There  had  been  a great  number  of 
murders  committed  upon  the  inhabitants  of  the  remote  and  unprotected 
settlements.  A considerable  force,  denominated  ‘rangers,’  was  raised  in 
the  territory.  They  marched  promptly  into  the  Indian  country,  and 
conducted  gallantly  j and  although  they  had  few  opportunities  of  distin- 
guishing themselves,  by  coming  in  actual  contact  with  the  enemy,  this  ex- 
pedition had  a great  effect  in  aweing  and  repressing  the  savage  marauders 
on  the  frontiers. 

The  tide  of  immigration,  which  had  been  arrested  during  the  war,  set 
with  greater  strength  towards  this  country,  on  the  return  of  peace.  The 

40 


314 


MISSOURI. 


mass  of  immigrants  was  constantly  accumulating,  until  the  year  1817, 
when  it  seems  to  have  reached  its  height.  An  hundred  persons  have  been 
numbered  in  a day  passing  through  St.  Charles,  either  to  Boone’s  Lick,  or 
Salt  River. 

Up  to  this  time  the  march  of  improvement  in  Missouri  was  rapid.  The 
face  of  the  country  was  visibly  changing  under  the  eye.  St.  Louis  was 
built  up  with  houses,  which  would  not  have  disgraced  Philadelphia.  St. 
Charles,  and  the  villages  generally,  began  to  be  re-built  of  brick.  Fine 
houses  arose  in  the  country.  Tread  mills  and  steam  mills  were  erected. 
Schools  were  established ; and  important  manufactories  were  either  com- 
menced, or  in  prospect.  The  rage  for  speculation  in  lands  became  a 
mania , which  affected  the  country.  The  militia  made  progress  in  organi- 
zation. The  population  was  supposed  to  amount  to  60,000. 

A sudden  change,  operating  re-action  with  more  or  less  force  through 
the  whole  United  States  was  visible  here  about  the  year  1817 ; and  went 
on  increasing  four  or  five  years.  It  resulted  from  the  sudden  reduction 
of  prices  in  the  Atlantic  country ; the  pressure  of  the  times ; and  the 
sudden  failure  of  the  numerous  Banks  of  the  western  country. 

There  was,  probably,  no  part  of  the  United  States  more  severely  pressed 
than  Missouri  and  Illinois.  Improvements  of  every  sort  not  only  came  to 
a dead  pause;  but  seemed  to  retrograde.  A great  number  of  immigrants 
had  been  sick,  on  removing  to  this  new  climate.  Clothes,  and  those  gro- 
ceries, that  from  habitual  use,  had  become  necessaries,  could  not  be  pro- 
cured. Even  wealthy  people  felt  the  distress  of  the  times;  for  there  was 
not  sufficient  money  to  keep  up  a circulating  medium.  They  falsely  im- 
puted these  evils  of  circumstances  and  the  times  to  this  particular  section 
of  the  country.  Many  of  them  packed  up  their  moveables;  collected 
their  cattle;  left  their  farms  unsold;  and  returned  to  the  countries  whence 
they  had  emigrated. 

Others  deemed,  that  a part  of  these  evils  resulted  from  their  being  in  a 
territorial  government.  It  appeared  by  the  census,  that  the  state  had 
more  inhabitants  than  were  required  by  the  Constitution,  to  form  a state. 
Delegates  were  accordingly  chosen,  in  1819,  for  this  purpose.  The  great 
object  in  the  canvass,  that  preceded  the  election,  was  to  prevent  any  per- 
son from  being  returned,  who  was  adverse  to  its  becoming  a slave-holding 
state.  The  slave  question  was  discussed  with  an  asperity,  that  might 
naturally  be  expected  to  result  from  the  character  of  the  inhabitants,  and 
the  magnitude  of  the  interests  involved  in  the  question.  By  a very  large 
majority,  the  allowance  to  hold  slaves  was  incorporated  in  the  provisions 
of  the  Constitution.  It  also  contained  an  article  interdicting  ministers  of 
the  gospel  from  being  eligible  to  any  office  in  the  state.  We  need  not 
repeat,  that  the  asperity  with  which  the  slave  question  was  discussed  was 


MISSOURI. 


315 


transferred  to  the  national  legislature,  and  was  canvassed  there  with  more 
bitterness,  than  even  here.  But  the  provision  finally  prevailed,  and  this 
state  was  admitted,  in  1820,  into  the  Union,  with  the  privilege  of  holding 
slaves. 

No  political  event  of  a striking  character  has  since  occurred.  This 
state  continued  to  labor  under  its  pecuniary  embarrassments  for  some 
years.  But  a sound  circulation  of  money  was  gradually  restored.  A 
duty  placed  upon  imported  lead  gave  activity  to  the  working  of  the  mines 
The  fur  trade  resumed  its  former  activity.  The  steam  boat  system  of 
freight  and  transport  had  a bearing  peculiarly  favorable  upon  this  state, 
which  has  such  a great  length  of  coast  washed  by  the  Mississippi,  and 
accessible  by  that  species  of  vessels  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  except 
when  the  Mississippi  is  impeded  by  ice.  About  the  year  1824,  it  could 
be  discovered,  that  the  order  of  prosperity  was  advancing  anew.*  The 
towns,  especially  St.  Louis,  began  to  improve.  The  tide  of  immigration 
once  more  set  towards  Missouri.  It  has  every  prospect  of  becoming  a 
wealthy,  populous  and  powerful  state. 

The  legislature  has  recently  incorporated  the  Missouri  Insurance  Co. 
capital  100,000  dollars,  and  the  privilege  to  increase  it  to  400,000;  the  St. 
Louis  Marine  Rail  Way  Co. ; the  St.  Louis  Hospital,:  and  the  St.  Louis 
Waterworks.  The  water  is  to  be  raised  by  steam  from  the  Mississippi 
and  distributed  over  the  city. 

In  other  parts  of  the  state,  there  is  the  Boone’s  Lick  Manufacturing 
Company,  near  Fayette;  and  the  Lexington  Steam  Saw  Mill  Company  in 
La  Fayette  county.  There  is  an  Iron  Foundry  establishment  on  a re- 
spectable scale  in  St.  Louis  ; and  one  or  two  large  establishments  at  Belle- 
vue, in  the  mine  country,  that  smelt  their  own  iron  from  mines  in  the  im- 
mediate vicinity.  The  legislature  has  passed  an  enactment  to  sell  all  the 
lands  appropriated  to  the  interests  of  education,  and  apply  the  fund 
thence  arising  to  the  same  purpose.  There  are  twelve  colleges,  academies 
and  seminaries,  incorporated  by  law. 


ILLINOIS. 


Length,  350  miles. — Breadth  180.  Between  37°  and  42°  30'  N. 
latitude,  and  10°  20'  and  14°  21'  W.  longitude.  It  contains  50,000  square 
miles,  and  nearly  40,000,000  acres.  Bounded  on  the  north  by  the 
North-Western  Territory.  East  by  lake  Michigan,  Indiana,  and  the  river 
Wabash.  South  by  the  Ohio,  which  separates  it  from  Kentucky;  and 
west,  in  its  whole  extent,  by  the  Mississippi,  which  separates  it  from 
Missouri,  and  ’ the  Missouri  Territory. 


Counties . 

County  Towns . 

Distances  from  Vandalia . 

Adams, 

Quincy, 

193  miles. 

Alexander. 

America, 

181 

Bond, 

Greenville, 

20 

Calhoun, 

Gilead, 

126 

Clark, 

Clark  C.  H, 

134 

Clay, 

Maysville, 

46 

Clinton, 

Carlyle, 

30 

Cole,. 

Cole  C.  H. 

Cook, 

Chicago, 

Crawford, 

Palestine, 

118 

Edgar, 

Paris, 

106 

Edwards, 

Albion, 

92 

Fayette, 

Vandalia, 

Franklin, 

Frankfort, 

102 

Fulton, 

Fulton, 

133 

Gallatin, 

Equality, 

137 

Greene, 

Carrollton, 

106 

Hamilton, 

McLeansbro’, 

93 

ILLINOIS 


317 


Hancock, 

Henry, 

Jackson, 

Brownsville, 

127 

Jefferson, 

Mount  Vernon, 

65 

Jo  Daviess, 

Galena, 

326 

Johnson, 

Vienna, 

167 

Knox, 

Knox  C.  H. 

188 

La  Salle, 

Ottowa, 

Lawrence, 

Lawrenceville, 

84 

McLean, 

Bloomington, 

Macon, 

Decatur, 

70 

Macoupin, 

Carlinville, 

95 

Madison, 

Edwardsville, 

55 

Marion, 

Salem, 

26 

McDonough, 

Macomb, 

Mercer, 

Monroe, 

Waterloo, 

99 

Montgomery, 

Hillsboro’, 

28 

Morgan, 

Jacksonville, 

115 

Peoria, 

Peoria, 

43 

Perry, 

Pinckneyville, 

129 

Pike, 

Atlas, 

148 

Pope, 

Golconda, 

160 

Putnam, 

Ilenepin,^ 

Randolph, 

Kaskaskia, 

59 

St.  Clair, 

Belleville, 

71 

Sangamon, 

Springfield, 

79 

Schuyler, 

Rushville, 

172 

Shelby, 

Sheibyville, 

40 

Tazewell, 

Mackinaw, 

149 

Union, 

Jonesboro’, 

154 

Vermillion, 

Danville, 

150 

Wabash, 

Mount  Carmel, 

109 

Warner, 

Warren, 

Washington, 

Nashville, 

Wayne, 

Fairfield, 

69 

White, 

Vandalia  is  781  miles  from  Washington,  75  from  St.  Louis,  288  from 
Nashville,  862  from  New  Orleans,  970  from  New  York,  and  320  from 
Cincinnati. 

The  census  of  1830  gives  the  population  of  Illinois  as  follows - 
Whites,  155,176.  Slaves,  746.  Total,  157,575, 


318 


ILLINOIS. 


Face  of  the  country.  Next  to  Louisiana  and  Delaware,  this  is  the  most 
level  state  in  the  Union.  Although  north-west  of  Shawneetown  there  is 
a range  of  hills,  which  some  have  chosen  to  denominate  mountains. — 
There  are  considerable  elevations  along  the  Illinois;  and  the  bluffs  of  the 
Mississippi  in  some  places  might  almost  pass  for  mountains.  In  the 
mineral  regions,  in  the  north-west  angle  of  the  state,  there  are  high  hills. 
But  the  far  greater  proportion  of  the  state  is  either  distributed  in  vast 
plains,  or  in  barrens,  that  are  gently  rolling.  We  may  travel  on  the  wide 
prairies  for  days  without  encountering  an  elevation,  that  is  worthy  to  be 
called  a hill.  In  no  part  of  the  peopled  divisions  of  the  United  States  are 
there  such  great  sections  of  prairie  country.  One  prairie,  with  very  little 
interruption,  spreads  from  the  shores  of  the  Mississippi  to  those  of  lake 
Michigan.  These  prairies,  more  distinctly  than  in  the  countries  west  of 
the  Mississippi  are  divided  into  wet  and  dry,  alluvial  and  rolling  prairies. 
The  wet  and  flat  prairies  seem  once  to  have  been  timbered  morasses. 
They  contain  peat,  and  other  fossil  indications,  logs,  and  the  bones  of 
animals  some  feet  below  the  soil,  that  probably,  when  the  trees  and  the 
animals  fell,  were  on  the  surface.  These  prairies  constitute  the  sources 
of  many  of  the  rivers.  The  alluvial  prairies  are  high  and  dry;  of  a rich 
black  loam,  and  an  exceedingly  fertile  soil ; and  covered  with  a coarse 
grass  of  incredible  size  and  height.  The  high  and  rolling  prairies  are 
sometimes  chequered  with  groves  of  sparse  trees.  The  quality  of  their 
soil  seldom  exceeds  second  rate,  and  they  abound  with  springs.  Grape 
vines  are  abundant ; and  they  furnish  an  inexhaustible  summer  range  for 
cattle. 

This  vast  extent  of  level  plains  is  an  injury.  There  is  often  not  suf- 
ficient inclination  to  carry  off  the  water  that  falls  in  rains.  Even  the  high 
prairies,  when  they  happen  to  be  of  a stiff  soil,  are  too  wet  for  cultivation. 
During  the  heats  of  summer  these  lands  discharge  their  waters  by  evap- 
oration rendered  still  more  noxious  by  the  vast  quantities  of  vegetation, 
which  have  been  steeping  in  them.  Hence  it  happens,  that  these  beauti- 
ful countries  to  the  eye,  where  every  thing  promises  health,  as  well  as 
abundance,  are  sometimes  sickly. 

On  the  route  from  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis,  the  great  road  passes  through 
this  state,  in  its  whole  extent  of  width.  More  than  one  hundred  miles  of 
it  is  high,  dry,  and  rich  prairie.  In  all  this  distance  the  margins  of  the 
streams  are  almost  the  only  places  where  timbered  land  is  found ; and  the 
streams  have  only  narrow  skirts  of  wood.  The  largest  prairie  is  ‘Grand 
Prairie.’  The  first  stratum  of  soil  in  this  wide  extent  of  country,  is  a 
black,  friable,  and  sandy  loam,  from  two  to  five  feet  in  thickness.  The 
next  is  a red  clay,  mixed  with  fine  sand,  and  from  five  to  ten  feet  in  thick* 
ness.  The  third  is  a hard  blue  clay  of  a beautiful  appearance,  and  a 


ILLINOIS. 


319 


greasy  feeling,  mixed  with  pebbles,  and  when  exposed  to  the  air,  emitting 
a foetid  smell.  In  this  stratum  the  water  of  the  wells  is  found;  which  is 
disagreeable,  if  not  unhealthy.  The  soil  is  of  the  first  quality.  In  the 
season  of  flowers  the  eye,  and  all  the  senses  receive  the  highest  gratifica- 
tion. In  the  time  of  strawberries,  thousands  of  acres  are  reddened  with 
the  finest  quality  of  this  delicious  fruit.  But  this  country,  which  strikes 
the  eye  delightfully,  and  has  millions  of  acres  that  invite  the  plough, 
wants  timber  for  building,  fencing,  and  fuel.  It  wants  good  water;  and 
in  too  many  instances  the  inhabitants  want  health.  Most  of  these  evils 
will  be  remedied  by  the  expedients  of  cultivation.  Forests  may  soon  be 
raised  upon  the  prairies.  Coal  and  peat  may  be  discovered  for  fuel. — 
Hedges  and  ditches  may  fence  it;  and  pure  water  may  be  found  by  carry- 
ing the  wells  below  the  stratum  of  earth,  that  is  supposed  to  impart  the 
sulphureous  and  disagreeable  taste  which  it  possesses. 

Between  Carlisle  and  St.  Louis,  an  extent  of  50  miles,  we  meet  with 
woods,  streams, hills,  lime-stone  ledges,  and  a rolling  country;  although 
we  cross  an  occasional  prairie  quite  to  the  American  bottom.  On  the 
north  of  this  road,  and  between  it  and  the  Illinois,  the  surface  is  generally 
more  irregular.  Considerable  of  the  country  may  be  termed  broken. 
The  hills  abound  with  stone  coal.  A range  of  hills  commences  at  the 
bluffs,  that  bound  the  American  bottom,  near  Kaskaskia ; and  stretches 
north-eastwardly  through  the  state,  towards  lake  Michigan.  A noble 
lime  stone  bluff  breaks  off,  almost  at  right  angles  to  this  chain,  and  stretches 
along  the  margin  of  the  American  bottom  to  the  point  nearly  opposite 
the  Missouri,  This  bluff  has,  in  many  places,  a regular  front  of  perpen- 
dicular lime  stone,  not  unfrequently  300  feet  high.  Another  line  of 
river  bluffs  commences  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  and  reaches 
the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  Opposite  Portage  des  Sioux,  these  bluffs  shoot 
up  into  detached  points  and  pinnacles,  which,  with  the  hoary  color  of  the 
rocks,  have  at  a distance,  the  appearance  of  the  ancient  spires  and  towers 
of  a town.  This  chain  of  bluffs  marks  the  limits  of  the  alluvion  of  the 
Illinois.  As  along  the  Mississippi,  the  face  of  this  grand  wall  of  nature 
is  frequently  perpendicular.  When  the  limits  of  the  alluvion  are  marked 
on  one  side  by  this  wall,  on  the  opposite  side  they  are  bounded  by  a suc- 
cession of  singular  hills,  parallel  to  each  other,  called  by  the  French 
‘mamelles.’  What  is  singular  is,  that  a beautiful  prairie  is  seen  on  that 
side,  which  is  bounded  by  the  perpendicular  bluffs;  and  a thick,  tangled 
and  heavily  timbered  bottom  on  the  side  of  the  river,  that  is  marked  with 
these  mamelles.  When  the  prairie  is  found  on  the  right  or  left  of  the 
river,  so  are  all  these  accompaniments ; and  they  regularly  alternate, 
being  found  first  on  one  side,  and  then  on  the  other. 

The  £ American  bottom,’  commences  not  far  below  Kaskaskia,  and 
stretches  along  the  eastern  shore  of  the  Mississippi  80  miles;  terminating 


ILLINOIS. 


320 

a little  distance  below  the  point,  which  is  opposite  the  mouth  of  the 
Missouri.  It  is  from  three  to  six  miles  wide,  and  divided  into  two  belts. 
The  first,  bordering  the  Mississippi,  is  a heavily  timbered  bottom.  The 
next  reaching  the  foot  of  the  perpendicular  bluffs,  is  prairie  of  the  richest 
quality,  covered,  in  the  season,  with  grass  and  flowers.  Parts  of  this 
tract  have  been  in  cultivation  with  the  exhausting  crop  of  maize  one 
hundred  years,  without  apparently  producing  the  slightest  exhaustion 
of  the  soil.  No  description  will  convey  an  adequate  idea  of  the  power 
of  vegetation,  and  the  rank  luxuriance  with  which  it  operates  along  this 
plain  of  exhaustless  fertility.  Unhappily  here,  as  almost  universally, 
nature  has  compensated  the  prodigality  of  her  gifts  on  the  one  hand,  by 
counterbalancing  disadvantages  on  the  other.  Wherever  her  bounties  are 
offered  with  little  labor,  and  in  such  abundance  as  here,  men  will  be  found. 
But  in  the  autumn  you  will  enter  few  houses  in  the  whole  distance,  where 
some  of  the  members  of  the  family  are  not  sick. 

A bottom  similar  to  this,  alternately  on  the  right  and  left  bank  of  the 
Illinois,  marks  its  course  almost  from  its  mouth  to  its  source.  It  is  in  the 
same  manner  bounded  by  bluffs.  The  same  line  of  hills  marks  a belt 
beyond  its  bluffs.  In  short  this  configuration  of  the  country  designates 
the  outlines  of  all  the  rivers  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  Each  of  the 
great  rivers  has  some  distinctive  signs  impressed  upon  its  bluffs  and  hills. 

The  military  bounty  lands  in  Illinois  are  laid  off  in  the  delta  of  the 
Illinois  and  Mississippi.  Their  shape  is  that  of  a curvilinear  triangle. 
More  than  five  million  acres  have  been  surveyed,  to  meet  the  appropria- 
tion of  three  millions  and  a half  acres,  which  were  assigned  by  congress, 
as  a bounty  for  soldiers.  These  lands  embrace  all  the  varieties  of  soil, 
found  in  any  part  of  the  Mississippi  valley.  There  are  rich  bottoms,  in- 
undated swamps,  grassy  prairies,  timbered  alluvions,  perpendicular  bluffs, 
‘mamelle’  and  river  hills,  barrens,  and  all  qualities  of  soil  from  the  best  to 
the  worst.  Some  portions  may  be  affirmed  healthy ; but  such  is  not  their 
general  character.  A great  share  is  of  first  rate  quality,  as  regards  fertility. 
The  lower  portion  next  the  Mississippi,  where  the  two  rivers,  for  a long 
distance,  are  near  each  other,  seldom  diverging  more  than  eight  miles,  is 
generally  of  extraordinary  fertility ; but  sometimes  inundated,  and  too 
often  unhealthy.  As  we  ascend  the  Illinois,  and  the  .two  rivers  diverge, 
the  character  of  the  country  becomes  more  diversified,  less  subject  to  in- 
undation, more  happily  sprinkled  with  hill,  dale,  copse,  and  prairie.  The 
north-eastern  division  of  this  tract  is  in  general  a fine  country. 

It  would  lead  to  a particularity  beyond  our  object,  to  go  into  a detailed 
description  of  all  the  bodies  of  excellent  land  in  this  state.  For  not  only 
here,  but  over  all  the  western  country,  the  lands  seem  to  be  distributed 
in  bodies,  either  of  rich  or  sterile,  level  or  broken  lands.  On  Rock  River, 
the  Illinois,  the  Kaskaskia,  Embarras,  between  the  Big  and  Little  Wabash, 


ILLINOIS. 


321 


on  the  Parassaw,  the  Macoupin,  the  Sangamon,  and  on  ail  the  consider 
able  streams  of  this  state,  there  are  very  large  bodies  of  first  rate  lands. 
The  Grand  Prairie,  the  Mound  Prairie,  the  prairie  upon  which  the  Marine 
Settlement  is  fixed,  and  that  occupied  by  the  society  of  Christians  from 
New  England,  are  all  exceedingly  rich  tracts. 

The  Sangamon,  in  particular,  is  an  Arcadian  region,  in  which  nature 
has  delighted  to  bring  together  her  happiest  combinations  of  landscape. 
It  is  generally  a level  country.  The  prairies  are  not  so  extensive,  as  to 
be  incapable  of  settlement  from  want  of  timber.  The  Sangamon  itself 
is  a fine  boatable  water  of  the  Illinois,  entering  it  on  the  south  side,  140 
miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois.  All  the  waters  that  enter  this 
beautiful  river,  have  sandy  and  pebbly  bottoms,  and  pure  and  transparent 
waters.  There  is  a happy  proportion  of  timbered  and  prairie  lands.  The 
soil  is  of  great  fertility.  The  climate  is  not  very  different  from  that  of 
New  York,  and  the  latitude  about  the  same.  The  summer  range  for  cat- 
tle is  inexhaustible.  The  growth  of  forest  trees  is  similar  to  that  of  the 
rich  lands  in  the  western  country  in  general.  The  proportion  of  locust, 
black  walnut,  and  peccan  trees,  that-  indicate  the  richest  soils,  is  great. 
Iron  and  copper  ore,  salt  springs,  gypsum,  and  stone  coal  are  abundant. 
All  who  have  visited  this  fine  tract  of  country,  admire  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape,  which  nature  has  here  painted  in  primeval  freshness.  So 
beautiful  a tract  of  country  was  early  selected  by  immigrants  from  New 
England,  New  York,  and  North  Carolina.  More  than  200  families  had 
fixed  themselves  here,  before  it  was  surveyed.  It  now  constitutes  a num- 
ber of  populous  counties,  and  is  thickly  settled  by  thriving  farmers.  The 
first  settlement  of  Greene  county,  one  of  the  most  populous,  was  in  1817 ; 
and  the  first  sale  of  lands  in  1821.  It  has  now  7,854  inhabitants,  and 
1,207  militia. 

A body  of  lands,  perhaps  equally  extensive  and  fine  with  that  on  the 
Sangamon,  lies  along  the  course  of  the  Kaskaskia,  or  Okau.  This  river 
has  a long  course  through  the  central  parts  of  the  state,  and  a country 
happily  diversified  with  hill,  vale,  prairie,  and  forest.  The  streams  that 
fall  into  it,  have  sufficient  fall  to  be  favorable  for  the  site  of  mills.  The 
best  settled  parts  of  the  state  are  watered  by  this  river.  On  its  banks  is 
Kaskaskia,  formerly  the  seat  of  government,  and  Vandalia,  at  present  the 
metropolis. 

Although  there  are  extensive  bodies  of  sterile  and  broken  lands  in 
Illinois,  yet  take  the  whole  of  its  wide  surface  together,  it  contains  a 
greater  proportion  of  first  rate  land,  than  any  state  in  the  Union ; and 
probably  as  great  in  proportion  to  its  extent,  as  any  country  on  the  globe. 
One  of  the  inconveniences  appended  to  this  extent  of  rich  country,  is  too 
great  a proportion  of  prairies,  with  which  two-thirds  of  the  surface  are 

41 


322 


ILLINOIS, 


covered.  But  the  prevalence  of  coal  and  peat,  and  the  ease  and  rapidity 
with  which  forest  trees  may  be  raised,  will  render  even  the  extensive 
prairies  habitable. 

Rivers.  It  is  only  necessary  to  look  on  the  map  of  this  state,  to  see 
what  astonishing  advantages  for  inland  navigation  nature  has  given  it. 
On  its  northern  extent,  it  has  for  a great  distance  the  waters  of  lake 
Michigan,  and  the  boatable  streams  that  empty  into  it ; and  by  this  vast 
body  of  waters,  a communication  is  opened  with  the  northern  fronts  of 
Indiana  and  Ohio;  with  New  York  and  Canada.  On  the  north-west 
frontier  it  has  Rock  River,  a long,  beautiful  and  boatable  river  of  the 
Mississippi.  On  the  whole  western  front  it  is  washed  by  the  Mississippi; 
and  on  its  northern  by  the  Ohio.  On  the  east  it  is  bounded  by  the  Wa- 
bash. Through  its  centre,  winds,  in  one  direction,  the  Illinois,  connect- 
ing the  Mississippi  with  lake  Michigan  by  the  Plein  and  Kankakee,  a 
river,  excepting  a short  distance  of  shoals,  almost  as  uniformly  boatable 
as  a canal ; and  in  another  direction,  the  beautiful  Kaskaskia  winds 
through  the  state.  Besides  these,  there  are  great  numbers  of  boatable 
streams,  penetrating  the  state  in  every  direction.  Such  is  the  intersec- 
tion of  this  state  by  these  waters,  that  no  settlement  in  it  is  far  from  a 
point  of  boatable  communication,  either  with  lake  Michigan,  the  Missis- 
sippi, or  the  Ohio.  It  may  be  added,  that  when  the  state  shall  have  been 
inhabited  as  it  will  be,  as  no  country  affords  greater  facilities  for  making 
canals,  from  the  friability  of  the  soil,  its  levelness,  and  the  proximity  of 
the  sources  of  the  boatable  waters  to  each  other,  canals  will  complete  the 
chain  of  communications,  and  transport  will  be  almost  as  entirely  by 
water  in  Illinois,  as  it  now  is  in  Holland  or  China.  At  present  the  state 
is  supposed  to  have  4,000  miles  of  boatable  waters  in  her  limits. 

The  Illinois,  which  gives  name  to  the  state,  may  be  considered  the 
most  important  river,  whose  whole  course  is  in  it.  It  rises  in  the  north- 
eastern parts  of  the  state,  not  more  than  35  miles  from  the  south-western 
extremity  of  lake  Michigan,  and  interlocking  by  a morass  with  the  river 
Chicago,  which  empties  into  that  lake.  Its  two  main  head  branches  are 
Plein  and  Kankakee.  Thirty  miles  from  the  junction  of  these  rivers, 
enters  Fox  River,  from  the  north.  Between  this  and  the  Vermillion, 
enter  two  or  three  inconsiderable  rivers.  The  Vermillion  is  a considera- 
ble stream,  which  enters  the  Illinois  from  the  South,  260  miles  above  the 
Mississippi.  Not  far  below  this  river,  and  two  hundred  and  ten  miles  above 
the  Mississippi,  commences  Peoria  lake,  which  is  no  more  than  an  en- 
largement of  the  river,  two  miles  wide,  on  an  average,  and  twenty  miles 
in  length.  Such  is  the  depth  and  regularity  of  the  bottom,  that  it  has  no 
perceptible  current  whatever.  It  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water,  with  ro- 
mantic shores,  generally  bounded  by  prairies;  and  no  waters  in  the  world 


ILLINOIS. 


323 


furnish  finer  sport  for  the  angler.  M’Kee’s  and  Red  Rud  enter  not  far 
from  this  point.  Crow-Meadow  River  almost  interlocks,  at  its  source, 
with  the  Vermillion  of  the  Wabash.  Two  or  three  inconsiderable  streams 
enter  the  river  from  the  north,  not  far  from  the  lower  extremity  of  Peoria 
lake.  Still  lower  down  enters  from  the  south  Michilimackinack,  a very 
considerable  stream,  boatable  nearly  an  hundred  miles  from  the  river  into 
the  interior.  Below  this  enter  Spoon  and  Crooked  Rivers.  Still  lower 
down  on  the  same  side  enters  the  Sangamon  by  a mouth  100  yards  wide; 
and  is  boatable  140  miles.  From  its  position,  and  the  excellence  of  its 
lands,  it  is  one  of  the  most  important  rivers  of  the  state.  Chariton,  Otter, 
Apple,  and  Macoupin  rivers  are  all  considerable  streams,  that  water  fine 
tracts  of  country. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  Illinois,  the  rivers  that  enter  on  that  shore, 
have  their  courses,  for  the  most  part,  in  mountainous  bluffs,  which  often 
approach  near  the  river.  For  a great  distance  above  its  mouth,  the  river 
is  almost  as  straight  as  a canal ; has  in  summer  scarcely  a perceptible 
current,  and  the  waters,  though  transparent,  have  a marshy  taste  to  a de- 
gree to  be  almost  unpotable.  The  river  is  wide  and  deep;  and  for  the 
greater  part  of  its  width,  is  filled  with  aquatic  weeds,  to  such  a degree, 
that  no  person  could  swim  among  them.  Only  a few  yards  width,  in  the 
centre  of  the  stream,  is  free  from  them.  It  enters  the  Mississippi,  through 
a deep  forest,  by  a mouth  400  yards  wide.  Perhaps  no  river  of  the 
western  country  has  so  fine  a boatable  navigation,  for  such  a great  dis- 
tance, or  waters  a richer  and  more  luxuriant  tract  of  country.  On  the 
banks  of  this  river  the  first  French  immigrants  from  Canada  fixed  them- 
selves ; and  here  was  the  scenery  on  which  they  founded  their  extravagant 
paintings  of  the  western  country.  By  a moderate  amount  of  labor  and 
expense,  this  river  might  be  united  with  the  Chicago  of  lake  Michigan. 
Appropriations  have  already  been  made  by  the  state  for  the  canal,  that  is 
intended  to  effectuate  this  purpose.  We  have  already  remarked,  that  at 
certain  seasons  of  the  year,  boats  of  five  tons  burden  already  pass  through 
the  morass,  from  one  extremity  of  which  the  waters  are  discharged  into 
the  Chicago  of  lake  Michigan ; and  from  the  other  into  the  Plein  of  the 
Illinois;  thus  furnishing  a natural  communication  between  two  rivers, 
whose  outlets  are  so  wide  and  opposite  from  each  other.  Indeed,  by  the 
most  obvious  appearances,  along  the  Illinois  and  some  of  its  waters;  as 
the  Plein  for  example,  it  is  manifest,  that  lake  Michigan  once  discharged 
at  least  a part  of  its  surplus  waters  into  the  Mississippi.  This,  too,  may 
explain  the  obvious  appearance  in  that  lake,  of  being  now  many  feet  lower 
than  once  it  was.  This  fact  is  palpably  marked  every  where  along  the 
rocky  shores  of  the  lake. 


324 


ILLINOIS. 


Rock  River  is  one  of  the  most  clear  and  beautiful  tributaries  of  the 
Mississippi.  It  has  its  source  beyond  the  northern  limits  of  the  state,  in 
a ridge  of  hills,  that  separates  between  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  and 
lake  Michigan.  On  its  waters  are  extensive  and  rich  lead  mines.  Its 
general  course  is  south-west,  and  it  enters  the  Mississippi  not  far  above 
the  commencement  of  the  military  bounty  lands.  Opposite  the  mouth  of 
this  river,  in  the  Mississippi,  is  the  beautiful  island,  called  from  the  name 
of  the  river,  on  which  is  a military  station  of  the  United  States,  presenting 
one  of  the  most  beautiful  prospects  on  the  whole  range  of  the  Mississippi. 

Kaskaskia  River  rises  in  the  interior  of  the  state,  nearly  interlocking 
with  the  waters  of  lake  Michigan.  It  has  a course,  in  a south-west 
direction,  of  between  2 and  300  miles,  greater  part  of  which  is,  in  high 
stages  of  water,  boatable.  It  runs  through  a fine  and  settled  country,  and 
empties  into  the  Mississippi  a few  miles  below  the  town  of  the  same  name. 
In  its  long  course  it  interlocks  with  the  waters  of  Sangamon,  St.  Mary, 
Big  Muddy,  Little  and  Great  Wabash.  It  receives  a great  number  of 
tributaries,  among  which  the  most  considerable  are  Crooked,  Horse, 
Prairie,  Long,  Silver,  Sugar,  and  Shoal  creeks.  Its  lower  course  is  known 
to  the  French  people  by  the  name  of  Okau. 

Little  Wabash  rises  40  miles  south-east  of  the  Kaskaskia;  and  runs  in 
a southerly  direction  130  miles,  emptying  into  the  main  Wabash,  a few 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  It  is  80  yards  wide  at  its  mouth, 
and  susceptible  of  a long  navigation,  when  the  timber  shall  have  been 
removed  from  its  bed,  and  some  of  its  sand  bars  dug  down.  An  appro- 
priation has  been  made  by  the  legislature  for  this  purpose.  It  waters  a 
rich  country,  abounding  in  small  streams.  Fox  River  is  no  more  than  a 
bayou  of  the  Wabash.  Embarras,  Macontin,  St.  Germain,  Tortue, 
Brouette,  Dachette,  Erablier,  Rejoicing,  and  Tippicance  are  all  consider- 
able streams  of  this  state,  which  enter  into  the  Wabash.  Most  of  them 
have  their  sources  in  low  prairies,  or  marshy  lakes.  They  abound  in  fish 
and  water  fowl.  Tippicanoe  receives  its  name  from  a kind  of  pike,  called 
Piccanau,  by  the  savages,  which  abounds  in  this  river.  It  is  famous  for 
the  bloody  battle  fought  on  its  banks,  between  our  troops  under  General 
Harrison,  and  the  savages,  at  the  commencement  of  the  late  war.  As  the 
Wabash  belongs,  in  a great  measure,  to  Indiana,  we  shall  reserve  a further 
description  of  it  for  that  state.  Henderson  is  a considerable  river  entering 
the  Mississippi  240  miles  above  St.  Louis. 

Parassaw  enters  the  Mississippi  between  Portage  des  Sioux  and  the 
mouth  of  the  Illinois.  It  has  been  but  recently  inhabited.  It  runs  through 
a fine  tract  of  land.  A considerable  body  of  Irish  Catholics  have  fixed 
themselves  on  this  creek.  It  has  a course  of  nearly  fifty  miles.  Some 


ILLINOIS* 


325 


little  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri,  enters  into  the  Mississippi, 
Wood  Creek,  which  has  a course  of  30  or  40  miles ; and  has  a number  of 
mills  erected  on  it.  Cahokia  Creek  has  a considerable  length  of  course 
in  the  American  bottom ; and  enters  the  Missisippi  not  far  below  St.  Louis. 
Big  Muddy,  called  by  the  French  A vase , or  Au  Van,  enters  the  Mississippi 
32  miles  below  the  mouth  of  Kaskaskia.  It  is  a deep,  slow  stream,  car- 
rying a great  body  of  water  considering  its  width,  which  is  not  more  than 
70  yards.  It  is  boatable  150  miles.  It  flows  through  a low  and  level 
country,  and  some  parts  of  its  alluvion  are  subject  to  inundation.  Near 
its  banks  are  found  immense  banks  of  stone  coal.  St.  Mary’s  is  an  incon- 
siderable stream  that  empties  into  the  Mississippi  a league  and  a half 
below  the  Kaskaskia. 

The  following  rivers  of  this  state  empty  into  the  Ohio.  The  Saline 
unites  its  waters  with  that  river,  30  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Wa- 
bash. It  is  navigable  to  the  United  States  Saline,  back  of  Shawneetown, 
20  miles  from  its  mouth.  Grand  Pierre,  Lush  Creek,  and  Big  Bay  are 
inconsiderable  streams,  that  are  useful  as  furnishing  sites  for  mills.  Cash 
is  a considerable  stream,  boatable  50  miles,  and  is  50  yards  wide  at  its 
mouth.  It  enters  the  Ohio  five  miles  above  its  mouth. 

Minerals.  In  the  north-west  angle  of  this  state,  and  in  the  adjacent 
territories  are  found  the  richest  veins  of  lead  ore,  probably,  in  the  world. 
The  mine  country,  like  that  in  Missouri,  is  found  to  be  more  extensive,  in 
proportion  as  more  researches  are  made.  Specimens  of  native  malleable 
copper  are  shown,  weighing  from  one  to  three  pounds.  They  were  found 
in  a hilly  region,  at  a considerable  distance  east  of  the  Mississippi ; and 
the  finder  represented  the  region  where  they  were  found,  as  having  the 
marks  of  volcanic  explosion  about  it.  Gypsum  and  mineral  coal  are 
abundant  in  this  state;  as  are  also  Salines;  though  we  know  of  but  one 
place  in  the  state  where  salt  is  extensively  made.  Immense  quantities  of 
this  necessary  article  are  manufactured  at  the  Saline  back  of  Shawneetown  . 

Climate.  This  state,  in  general,  has  the  same  climate  with  Missouri, 
being  much  more  nearly  assimilated  in  this  respect  to  that  state,  than  to 
Indiana,  or  Ohio.  But  being  something  Lower  and  more  level,  than  the 
Missouri  country,  and  more  subject  to  inundation,  it  is  probably,  more 
humid;  and  at  its  north-eastern  extremity,  where  it  feels  the  bleak  and 
desolating  gale  of  the  lakes,  it  is  more  cold,  and  has  a more  uncomfortable 
air  in  the  winter.  It  embraces  between  five  and  six  degrees  of  latitude. 
The  southern  parts  will  bring  cotton,  in  favorable  years,  for  domestic  use. 
While  the  climate  of  the  northern  parts  is  not  much  unlike  that  of  New 
York  and  Albany.  The  productions  are  the  same,  as  those  of  the  adjoin- 
ing state  of  Missouri. 


326 


ILLINOIS. 


Agriculture  and  Manufactures.  This  state,  having  a vast  extent  of  the 
most  fertile  soil,  must  of  course  raise  with  the  greatest  ease,  all  the 
articles  to  which  her  soil  and  climate  are  favorable,  in  an  amount  far  be- 
yond her  consumption.  By  her  long  line  of  coast  on  the  Mississippi, 
which  is  never  hindered  from  being  navigable,  by  the  lowness  of  the  waters, 
she  has  facilities  for  conveying  her  articles  to  market,  which  the  states 
situated  on  the  Ohio  have  not.  From  her  immense  prairies,  and  bound- 
less summer  range  for  cattle,  she  has  advantages  for  raising  cattle  and 
horses,  over  the  other  western  states.  Her  prairies  yield  a variety  of  good 
fodder.  In  the  eastern  districts  in  the  vicinity  of  French,  Indian.,  or 
American  habitancy,  wherever  the  natural  prairie  grass  is  ‘killed  out,’  as 
the  phrase  is,  a fine  species  of  spear  grass,  called  blue  grass,  naturally 
takes  place  of  it.  The  eastern  parts  of  this  state  more  easily  clothe 
themselves  with  a fine  and  verdant  turf,  than  the  more  sandy  soils  of  Mis- 
souri. These  circumstances  indicate  this  to  be  naturally  a grazing  state. 
It  already  sends  great  numbers  of  fine  cattle  and  horses  to  New  Orleans. 
Most  of  the  clothing  of  the  people  is  manufactured  in  the  domestic  way. 
The  coarser  kinds  of  manufactures  are  found  at  home.  The  number  of 
artizans,  by  the  census  of  1820,  exceeded  a thousand. 

Chief  Towns.  Vandalia  has  been  selected  as  the  political  metropolis  of 
this  state.  It  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a high  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia  river, 
in  the  centre  of  a rich  and  thriving  country.  It  was  founded  but  a few 
years  since.  But  respectable  houses  for  the  accommodation  of  the  gov- 
ernment and  the  courts  have  already  been  erected.  Many  handsome  brick 
buildings  have  arisen.  A weekly  gazette  is  issued,  and  it  exhibits  the 
aspect  of  a respectable  village,  having  from  80  to  100  houses. 

Edwardsville,  on  Cahokia  Creek,  20  miles  north-east  from  St.  Louis, 
is  a county  town,  and  a village  of  considerable  consequence.  Until 
within  a few  years,  it  was  the  seat  of  government,  which  had  been  trans- 
ferred from  Kaskaskia  to  that  place. 

Belleville  is  in  the  centre  of  Turkey  Hill  Settlement,  18  miles  south 
east  of  St.  Louis,  and  a few  miles  east  of  the  American  Bottom.  It  is  a 
flourishing  village  in  the  midst  of  a compact  settlement  and  most  excel- 
lent lands. 

Alton  is  a new  village,  a little  above  the  mouth  of  the  Missouri.  In 
four  years  from  its  commencement  it  contained  100  houses,  and  a respec- 
table boarding  school  Many  of  the  people  were  immigrants  from  New 
York.  From  the  favorableness  of  its  position,  and  from  the  apparent 
healthiness  of  its  situation,  it  bids  fair  to  become  a town  of  consequence, 

Carrollton,  the  county  town  of  Greene  county,  has  a street  of  sub- 
stantial brick  houses,  and  600  inhabitants. 


ILLINOIS® 


327 


Carlisle  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Kaskaskia,  on  the  great 
road  from  Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis.  The  road  from  Shawneetown  to  St 
Louis,  also  passes  through  this  place.  Boats  of  burthen,  in  good  stages 
of  water,  can  ascend  the  river  to  this  place.  There  are  few  positions  in 
the  state,  more  central  to  the  resources  of  the  country. 

Cahokia,  on  the  creek  of  that  name,  is  situated  in  the  American  bottom, 
a few  miles  below  St.  Louis.  It  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  villages  in 
the  country.  Its  inhabitants  are  chiefly  French;  and  it  is  a village  of 
considerable  extent. 

Prairie  da  Rocker , 12  miles  above  Kaskaskia,  is  a French  village  in  the 
American  Bottom,  situated  near  a most  beautiful  lime-stone  bluff.  It  is 
nearly  the  size  of  the  former  village. 

Kaskaskia  is  situated  on  an  extensive  plain,  not  far  from  the  commence- 
ment of  the  American  Bottom,  11  miles  from  the  mouth  of  the  river,  on 
which  it  stands,  and  six  miles  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  Mississippi. 
This  town  was  one  of  the  first  establishments  made  by  the  French  in  the 
valley  of  the  Mississippi ; and  is  a place,  whose  origin  dates  farther  back 
than  Philadelphia.  It  once  was  a place  of  great  importance,  containing 
7,000  inhabitants.  At  present  it  numbers  160  houses  and  1,000  inhabit- 
ants. A more  beautiful  situation  for  a town  can  hardly  be  imagined. 
It  is  in  the  centre  of  gently  sloping  basin,  on  a fine  navigable  stream,  and 
in  the  midst  of  a country  proverbial  for  its  fertility.  It  is  the  seat  of 
justice  for  its  county — has  a bank,  a printing  office,  a Catholic  church, 
and  a Land  Office. 

Albion  is  situated  near  Bon  Pas  Creek,  and  is  the  centre  of  what  is 
called  ‘the  Marine  Settlement, ’ formed  by  Mr.  Birkbeck,  Flower,  and 
other  English  immigrants.  There  are  many  wealthy  farmers  in  this 
vicinity,  that  were  once  mariners. 

Galena  was  first  settled  in  1826.  It  was  originated  by  the  extensive 
and  rich  lead  mines  in  its  vicinity,  and  was  an  outpost  of  between  3 and 
400  miles  advance  into  the  wilderness,  north-west  of  St.  Louis.  The 
population  now  amounts  to  near  1,000  inhabitants.  There  are  42  stores 
and  warehouses,  with  an  injurious  excess  of  groceries,  and  about  250 
dwelling  houses.  There  is  a weekly  journal,  and  the  usual  concomitants 
of  a county  seat.  Fifty  steam  boat  arrivals  are  the  annual  average  for  the 
two  pest  years;  and  about  ten  million  pounds  of  lead  are  annually  ex- 
ported from  this  place.  The  population  in  the  vicinity  is  estimated  at 
10,000.  It  is  300  miles  north  north-west  from  Vandalia,  and  about  350 
from  St.  Louis. 

Shawneetown  is  situated  on  the  Ohio,  9 miles  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Wabash  The  great  United  States  Saline,  situated  12  miles  back  of  this 


328 


ILLINOIS* 


town,  contributes  to  give  it  consequence.  It  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  its 
county,  has  a Bank  with  a large  capital,  and  a Land  Office.  Galconda  and 
America  are  inconsiderable  villages  on  the  Ohio.  America,  from  its 
position,  it  should  seem,  must  become  one  day  of  consequence.  It  is  a 
point  to  which  large  steam  boats  can  ascend  from  below,  to  wait  for  the 
smaller  boats,  that  ascend  the  Ohio  in  low  stages  of  the  water.  Oxford, 
Carmi,  Palmyra  and  Palestine  are  commencing  villages  on  different  waters 
of  the  Wabash. 

Diseases , S$c.  The  climate  is  so  nearly  the  same  with  that  of  Missouri, 
which  we  have  already  described  with  some  particularity,  that  we  need 
add  but  little  in  this  place.  It  is  generally  lower,  more  extensively 
watered,  and  something  more  humid  than  its  sister  state,  opposite  the 
Mississippi.  Its  diseases  are  similar,  though  we  think  it  more  subject  to 
intermittent  and  remittent  fevers. 

In  this  state,  as  well  as  that,  in  the  extensive  and  rich  bottoms,  the  cows 
are  subject  to  a terrible  and  inexplicable,  or  at  least  as  yet,  unexplained 
disease,  called  milk  sickness.  It  occurs  most  frequently  in  autumn,  and 
about  that  period  of  autumn,  when  the  first  severe  frosts  happen.  From 
this  circumstance,  and  the  fact  that  the  cattle  are  then  driven  by  necessity 
to  pasture  upon  the  succulent  vines  and  herbage  of  the  forest,  that  remain 
unhurt  by  the  frost,  it  is  generally  supposed  to  be  occasioned  by  the  eating 
of  some  poisonous  vegetable.  The  animal  affected  with  it  becomes  ap- 
parently weary  and  faint,  and  can  travel  but  a little  distance  without  fall- 
ing. It  seems  languid  and  stupid,  and  so  continues  to  droop  until  it  dies. 
At  this  time,  and  under  the  influence  of  this  sickness,  the  milk  of  the  cows 
taken  in  any  quantity,  seems  to  produce  the  same  disease  in  men,  or  what- 
ever animals  swallow  it.  The  persons  are  subject  to  extreme  nausea, 
faintness,  vertigo,  recklessness  and  death.  There  are,  probably,  many 
supposed  cases  of  this  disease,  that  have  an  entirely  different  origin. — 
Some  have  questioned  if  it  be  not  altogether  a fabulous  disease.  We 
have  no  doubt  upon  the  subject.  We  have  conversed  with  so  many  who 
have  had  it,  and  have  recovered,  and  have  heard  of  so  many  deaths,  that 
were  well  attested  to  have  arisen  from  this  cause,  that  we  have  no  more 
doubt  of  its  having  affected  men,  than  animals.  It  has  been  a subject  of 
earnest  local  disputation  among  farmers  and  physicians  where  it  occurs, 
and  has  recently  been  discovered  to  be  occasioned  by  a luxuriant  poison 
vine,  which  grows  four  feet  in  height,  and  is  abundant  in  the  richest 
bottoms. 

Roads,  Public  Improvements,  Seminaries , £$c.  Beside  the  higher 
schools,  called  Academies,  which  have  beeircommenced  in  different  parts 
of  the  state,  Rock  Spring  Theological  School  is  a respectable  Baptist 


ILLINOIS. 


32& 

endowment  in  the  Turkey  Hills  Settlement,  17  miles  east  of  St.  Louis, 
and  on  the  great  road  from  that  place  to  Vincennes.  It  is  intended  to 
contain  a High  School,  an  Academy  and  Theological  Department.  The 
expenses  of  a student  are  not  over  50  dollars  a year.  It  has  50  students. 

Illinois  College  situated  at  Jacksonville,  was  founded  in  1829,  and  has 
a fund  of  13,000  dollars.  It  has  from  twenty  to  thirty  students. 

The  soil  in  this  state,  as  we  have  remarked  of  Missouri,  in  general  is 
favorable  to  roads.  The  low  and  clayey  prairies  are  exceptions.  But 
there  are  vast  extents  of  country  where  nature  has  furnished  as  good 
roads  as  could  be  desired.  Some  of  the  ferries  are  difficult  to  cross  in 
rainy  periods,  from  the  the  muddiness  of  the  approaches  to  them.  There 
are  considerable  portions  of  the  country  where  the  roads  are  very  deep 
and  heavy  in  the  winter.  The  rivers  furnish  most  of  the  communica- 
tions for  transport.  In  no  part  of  the  United  States  would  it  be  easier  to 
make  canals  for  the  rest.  One  between  the  Chicago  and  Des  Plaines,  as 
we  have  seen,  has  been  contemplated.  The  general  government  has 
appiopriated  100,000  acres  of  land  to  aid  the  project.  At  this  time, 
when  canals  are  so  generally  in  contemplation,  other  routes  for  canals 
have  been  surveyed.  The  same  provisions  for  schools  have  been  made 
here,  as  in  the  other  western  states.  In  addition  to  a thirty-sixth  of  the 
whole  of  public  lands,  three  per  cent,  on  all  the  sales  of  public  lands  are 
added  to  the  school  fund.  It  is  contemplated  to  establish  an  University. 
One- sixth  part  of  the  school  funds,  and  two  entire  townships  have  been 
appropriated  for  this  purpose.  There  is,  in  many  places,  a great  need  of 
primary  schools ; though  the  people  display  a growing  sense  of  the  vital 
importance  of  education  to  the  well  being  of  the  state.  In  the  more  pop- 
ulous and  opulent  villages,  schools  are  on  the  same  footing,  as  in  the  other 
places  similarly  situated,  in  the  United  States. 

Constitution  and  Laws.  The  constitution  of  this  state  was  adopted  in 
1818.  The  representatives  and  senators  are  chosen  biennially;  the  gov- 
ernor and  lieutenant  governor  for  four  years.  The  judiciary  is  vested  in 
a supreme  court,  and  such  other  subordinate  courts  as  the  legislature  may 
see  fit  to  establish.  The  supreme  court  consists  of  a chief  justice  and 
three  associate  justices,  who  hold  their  offices  for  a given  time.  All  free 
white  males,  who  have  resided  six  months  in  the  state,  are  qualified  to 
vote,  and  they  give  in  their  votes  at  elections  viva  voce. 

History.  The  early  history  of  this  country  has  necessarily  been  an- 
ticipated in  the  general  history  of  Louisiana.  Here  were  the  first  French 
establishments  which  were  made  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  Some 
of  the  French  villages  date  back  considerably  beyond  an  hundred  years. 
This  colony  was  known  for  a long  period  in  the  French  history  by  the 
name  of  the  Illinois.  They  often  furnished  aid  from  this  colony  to 

42 


330 


ILLINOIS 


Louisiana  in  her  wars  with  the  Spanish  and  Indians.  There  was  a time 
when  the  Illinois  colony  furnished,  chiefly  from  the  country  about  Kas- 
kaskia,  great  quantities  of  flour  and  provisions  to  the  colony  of  Louisiana. 
During  the  revolutionary  war  these  French  colonies  were  quiet  for  the 
greater  part  of  the  time.  We  have  already  related  the  fate  of  the  expe- 
dition from  Michilimackinack  against  St.  Louis.  In  the  subsequent 
Indian  wars,  this  region  was  the  theatre  of  many  a gallant  exploit  of  our 
partizan  warriors.  We  have  already  mentioned  the  brilliant  action  of 
Gen.  Clark,  in  capturing  a British  general,  and  detachment  at  Vincennes. 
This  country  suffered  much  from  the  savages  during  the  late  war.  Having 
an  immense  extent  of  frontier,  contiguous  to  the  lakes  and  to  savage 
tribes,  that  were  under  British  influence,  and  steadily  hostile  to  us;  this 
was  to  be  naturally  expected.  We  have  already  narrated  the  bloody 
tragedy,  that  ensued  upon  the  evacuation  of  Fort  Chicago.  Many 
frontier  settlements  were  broken  up,  and  many  individual  murders  were 
committed  by  the  Indians.  It  would  only  be  a repetition  of  those  horrible 
narratives,  that  belong  to  every  frontier  country,  similarly  situated,  when 
assailed  by  the  savages,  to  give  a detailed  account  of  them.  The  principal 
theatre  of  the  operations  of  the  rangers  was  in  this  state.  Those  opera- 
tions had  a great  effect  to  repress  the  incursions  of  the  savages.  A great 
alarm  excited  by  the  savages  near  Rock  River,  has  recently  been  dispelled 
by  marching  a considerable  body  of  troops  there. 

A considerable  number  of  Sacs  and  Foxes  still  inhabit  the  banks  of 
Rock  River,  or  its  waters.  The  Kaskaskia,  Cahokias,  Peorias,  Pianka- 
shaws,  Mascontins,  Delawares,  and  Shawnese,  are  chiefly  extinct  tribes, 
or  have  emigrated  from  this  region.  Chippeways  and  Pottawattomies 
are  still  seen  in  the  limits  of  this  state,  as  occasional  hunters  or  vagrants 
among  the  people.  But  by  different  treaties  the  Indians  have  ceded  the 
greater  part  of  their  territorial  claims  to  lands.  The  country  has  expe- 
rienced, until  recently,  almost  entire  freedom  from  their  depredations 
since  the  war;  and  has  rapidly  advanced  in  population  and  improvement. 
For  a series  of  years,  in  every  autumn,  long  lines  of  teams  might  be  seen 
moving  towards  Sangamon  or  Mauvaise  terre , the  grand  points  of  attrac- 
tion to  immigrants.  Nearly  the  same  order  of  events  occurred  here,  as 
in  Missouri,  in  relation  to  the  pecuniary  embarrassments  of  the  people, 
after  the  war.  The  same  expedients  of  4 relief  laivsj  and  loan  office 
banking  paper  were  adopted,  with  precisely  the  same  results.  The  history 
of  events  in  Missouri  will  answer  for  that  of  Illinois,  with  very  little 
variation.  Illinois  has  adopted  a constitution,  which  does  not  admit  in- 
voluntary servitude,  or  the  tenure  by  which  masters  hold  slaves.  Some 
unsuccessful  efforts  were  made  by  the  immigrants  from  the  slave  holding 
states,  to  have  their  constitution  amended,  to  admit  of  slavery.  The 


ILLINOIS. 


331 


question  was  casually  agitated  in  the  papers,  and  a convention  for  the 
purpose  was  proposed.  But  the  modeiation  and  good  sense  of  the  people 
allowed  this  irritating  investigation  to  sleep  undisturbed.  This  great 
state,  with  unoccupied  and  fertile  soil,  to  support  millions  of  agricultural 
people  in  affluence,  must  ultimately  become  populous  and  powerful. 

Curiosities.  Rock  Fort  is  a projection  from  the  left  bank  of  the  river 
Illinois.  Its  base  is  washed  on  three  sides  by  the  Illinois,  which  here  flows 
rapidly  over  a rocky  bed.  Broken  masses  of  rock  are  seen  above  the 
surface  of  the  water.  The  judgment  of  the  beholder  would  give  the 
height  of  this  cliff  at  250  feet.  The  actual  measurement  might,  however 
fall  short  of  this.  Its  perpendicular  sides,  arising  from  the  river,  are 
inaccessible.  It  is  connected  with  a chain  of  hills,  that  extend  up  the 
Illinois  by  a narrow  ledge,  the  only  ascent  to  which  is  by  a winding  and 
precipitous  path.  This  rock  has  on  its  top  a level  surface,  three-fourths 
of  an  acre  in  extent;  and  covered  by  a soil  several  feet  in  depth,  which 
has  thrown  up  a growth  of  young  trees.  These  form,  as  they  receive 
their  peculiar  tints  from  the  seasons,  a verdant,  or  gorgeous,  and  parti- 
colored crown,  for  this  battlement  of  nature’s  creation.  The  advantages, 
which  it  affords,  as  an  impregnable  retreat,  induced  a band  of  Illinois 
Indians,  who  sought  a refuge  from  the  fury  of  the  Pottawattomies,  with 
whom  they  were  at  war,  to  intrench  themselves  here.  They  repulsed  all 
the  assaults  of  their  beseigers,  and  would  have  remained  masters  of  their 
high  tower,  but  for  the  impossibility  of  longer  obtaining  supplies  of  water. 
They  had  been  used  to  attaching  vessels  to  ropes  of  bark,  and  dropping 
them  into  the  river  from  an  overhanging  point.  Their  enemies  stationed 
themselves  in  canoes  at  the  base  of  the  cliff,  and  cut  off  the  ropes  as  fast 
as  they  were  let  down.  The  consequence  of  this  was  a surrender,  and  the 
entire  extirpation  of  the  band.  An  intrenchment  corresponding  to  the 
edge  of  the  precipice,  is  distinctly  visible,  and  fragments  of  antique  pot- 
tery, and  other  curious  remains  of  the  vanished  race,  are  strewn  around. 
From  this  elevated  point,  the  Illinois  may  be  traced  as  it  winds  through 
deep  and  solitary  forests,  or  outspread  plains,  onward  to  the  Mississippi, 
until  it  disappears  from  the  vision  in  the  distance.  In  the  opposite 
direction,  a prairie  stretches  out,  and  blends  with  the  horizon.  At  the 
foot  of  Rock  Fort,  on  the  land  side,  the  eye  reposes  on  a verdant  carpet, 
enamelled  with  flowers  of  surpassing  beauty.  To  relieve  the  uniformity, 
from  which  even  this  beautiful  view  would  suffer,  the  forest  boundary  of 
the  opposite  side  of  the  prairie,  presents  its  gracefully  curved  line,  and 
offers,  from  the  noble  size  of  the  trees,  and  the  thickness  and  depth  of 
verdure  of  their  foliage,  That  boundless  contiguity  of  shade,’  sought  after 
by  the  poet. 


532 


ILLINOIS. 


‘The  Cave  in  Rock,’  or  ‘House  of  Nature,’  below  Shawneetown,  is 
pointed  out  to  passengers  on  the  Ohio,  as  a great  curiosity ; and  its  front 
is  marked  with  the  names  of  its  visitors.  Above  and  below  it  are  high 
perpendicular  lime  stone  bluffs,  surmounted  with  cedars,  above  which  are 
sailing  in  the  blue,  eagles,  birds  of  prey,  or  aquatic  fowls.  The  entrance 
to  the  cave  is  just  above  high  water  mark.  It  has  an  arched  roof  25  or  30 
feet  high,  and  extends  back  120  feet.  It  has  occasionally  afforded  a tem- 
porary winter  asylum  to  families,  descending  the  river.  The  immense 
prairies,  and  the  numberless  sink  holes  of  this  state  are  curiosities,  no  way 
different  from  the  same  spectacles  in  Missouri. 


TENNESSEE 


Medial  length,  400  miles;  medial  breadth  120.  Between  35°  and 
36°  36'  N.  latitude,  and  4°  30'  and  10°  W.  longitude.  Bounded  east  by 
North  Carolina;  south  by  Georgia,  Alabama  and  Mississippi;  west  by 
the  river  Mississippi.  It  was  originally  included  in  the  state  of  North 
Carolina,  from  which  it  was  separated,  and  admitted  into  the  Union  in 
1796. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 


Counties. 

County  Towns. 

Distances  from 

Anderson, 

Clinton, 

195 

Bedford, 

Shelbyville, 

52 

Bledsoe, 

Pikeville, 

109 

Blount, 

Marysville, 

197 

Campbell, 

Jacksboro’, 

543 

Carroll, 

Huntingdon, 

109 

Carter, 

Elizabethton, 

116 

Claiborne, 

Tazewell, 

243 

Cooke, 

Newport, 

247 

Davidson, 

Nashville, 

Dickson, 

Charlotteville, 

% 

Dyer, 

Dyersburgh, 

168 

Fayette, 

Somerville, 

184 

Fentress, 

Jamestown, 

131 

Franklin, 

Winchester, 

82 

Gibson, 

Trenton, 

139 

Giles, 

Pulaski, 

77 

Grainger, 

Rutledge, 

232 

Greene, 

Greenville, 

273 

Hardiman, 

Bolivar, 

158 

334 


TENNESSEE, 


Hamilton? 

Hamilton  C.  H 

14 & 

Hardin, 

Savannah, 

112 

Hawkins, 

Rogersville, 

264 

Haywood, 

Brownsville, 

175 

Henderson, 

Lexington, 

130 

Henry, 

Paris, 

108 

Hickman, 

Vernon, 

66 

Humphries, 

Reynoldsburgh, 

78 

Jackson, 

Gainesboro’, 

79 

Jefferson, 

Dundridge, 

229 

Knox, 

Knoxville, 

199 

Lawrence, 

Lawrenceburgh, 

75 

Lincoln, 

Fayetteville, 

73 

McMinn, 

Athens, 

153 

McNairy, 

Purdy, 

128 

Madison, 

Jackson, 

147 

Marion, 

Jasper, 

114 

Maury, 

Columbia, 

42 

Monroe, 

Madisonviile, 

168 

Montgomery, 

Clarksville, 

46 

Morgan, 

Morgan  C.  H. 

161 

Overton, 

Monroe, 

109 

Obion, 

Troy, 

161 

Perry, 

Shannonville, 

114 

Rhea, 

Washington, 

129 

Roane, 

Kingston, 

159 

Robertson, 

Springfield, 

25 

Rutherford, 

Murfreesboro’, 

33 

Sevier, 

Sevier  C.  H. 

225 

Shelby, 

Memphis, 

224 

Smith, 

Carthage, 

52 

Stewart^ 

Dover, 

81 

Sullivan, 

Blountsville, 

306 

Sumner, 

Gallatin, 

25 

Tipton, 

Covington, 

197 

Warren, 

McMinnville, 

74 

Washington, 

Jonesboro’, 

298 

Wayne, 

Waynesboro’, 

92 

Weakly, 

Dresden, 

132 

White, 

Sparta, 

92 

Williamson, 

Franklin, 

18 

Wilson, 

Lebanon, 

31 

TENNESSEE. 


335 


Nashville  is  714  miles  from  Washington  ; 594  from  New  Orleans; 
297  from  Cincinnati ; 288  from  Indianapolis,  and  993  from  New  York. 

The  census  of  1830  gives  the  population  of  this  state  as  follows: — • 
Whites,  537,930;  Slaves,  142,379.  Total  684,822. 

Face  of  the  country.  In  this  respect  this  state  is  more  diversified  than 
any  other  in  the  western  country.  The  Cumberland  Mountains  range 
through  it  in  an  oblique  direction,  dividing  it  into  two  distinct  sections, 
called  East  and  West  Tennessee.  In  East  Tennessee  the  Alleghanies 
branch  out  into  a great  number  of  ridges.  Among  these  the  most  lofty 
are  Cumberland,  and  Laurel  Ridge.  Stone,  Yellow,  Iron,  Bald,  and 
Unaka  are  different  peaks  of  a continued  chain.  Welling’s  and  Copper 
Ridge,  and  Clinch,  Powell’s  and  Bay’s  Mountains  are  at  the  north-east  of 
the  state.  It  is  singular,  that  all  these  mountains  have  a dip  towards  the 
west,  apparently  surpassing  that  of  their  eastern  declivity.  Mountains 
and  hills  occupy  a very  great  proportion  of  the  state.  There  can  be 
nothing  grand  and  imposing  in  scenery,  nothing  striking  and  picturesque 
in  cascades  and  precipitous  declivities  of  mountains,  covered  with  wood; 
nothing  romantic  and  delightful  in  deep  and  sheltered  vallies,  through 
which  wind  clear  streams,  which  is  not  found  in  this  state.  Even  the 
summits  of  some  of  the  mountains  exhibit  plateaus  of  considerable 
extent,  which  admit  of  good  roads,  and  are  cultivated  and  inhabited. 
The  mountains  and  hills  subside,  as  they  approach  the  Ohio  and  Missis 
sippi.  On  the  vallies  of  the  small  creeks  and  streams  are  many  pleasant 
plantations,  in  situations  beautiful,  and  yet  so  lonely  that  they  seem  lost 
among  the  mountains.  These  vallies  are  rich,  beyond  any  of  the  same 
description  elsewhere  in  the  western  country.  The  alluvions  of  the 
great  streams  of  Tennessee  and  Cumberland  differ  little  from  those  of  the 
other  great  streams  of  the  West.  As  great  a proportion  of  the  cultivable 
land  in  Tennessee  is  first  rate,  as  in  any  other  of  the  western  states. — 
The  soil  in  East  Tennessee  has  uncommon  proportions  of  dissolved  lime, 
and  nitrate  of  lime  mixed  with  it,  which  give  it  a great  share  of  fertility. 
The  descending  strata  in  West  Tennessee  appear  to  be  arranged  in  the 
following  order : first,  loamy  soil,  or  mixtures  of  clay  and  sand ; next, 
yellow  clay;  thirdly,  a mixture  of  red  sand  and  red  clay;  and  lastly,  a 
sand,  as  white  as  is  seen  on  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic.  In  the  southern 
parts  of  the  state  are  immense  banks  of  oyster  shells,  of  a size,  that  in 
some  instances,  the  half  of  a single  shell  weighs  two  pounds.  They  are 
found  on  high  table  grounds,  far  from  the  Mississippi,  or  any  water  course, 
and  at  a still  greater  distance  from  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

Earths , Fossils , and  Salts.  Beautiful  white,  grey,  and  red  marbles 
are  found  in  this  state.  Inexhaustible  quarries  of  gypsum,  of  the  finest 
quality,  abound  in  East  Tennessee,  in  positions  favorable  to  be  transported 


336 


TENNESSEE. 


by  the  beatable  waters  of  the  Holston.  Burr  mill  stones  are  quarried 
from  some  of  the  Cumberland  mountains.  Beautiful  specimens  of  rock 
crystals  are  sometimes  discovered.  One  or  two  mines  of  lead  have  been 
worked ; and  iron  ore  is  no  where  more  abundant.  Salt  springs  abound 
in  the  country;  though  few  of  them  are  of  a strength  to  justify  their  being 
worked.  Nitrous  earth  is  very  abundant;  and  any  quantity,  required  in 
the  arts,  might  be  made  from  the  earth  of  the  salt  petre  caves,  which 
abound  in  this  state. 

These  caves  are  among  the  most  astonishing  curiosities.  One  of  them 
was  descended  400  feet  below  the  surface ; and  on  the  smooth  lime  stone  at 
the  bottom  was  found  a stream  of  pure  water,  sufficient  to  turn  a mill. 
A cave,  on  an  elevated  peak  of  Cumberland  Mountain,  has  a perpendicular 
descent,  the  bottom  of  which  has  not  yet  been  sounded.  Caves,  in 
comparison  with  which,  the  one  so  celebrated  at  Antiparos  is  but  a slight 
excavation,  are  common  in  this  region  of  subterranean  wonders.  The 
circumstance  of  their  frequency  prevents  their  being  explored.  Were 
there  fewer  in  number,  we  might  amuse  our  readers  with  accurate  descrip- 
tions of  the  noblest  caves  in  the  world.  As  it  is,  little  more  of  them  is 
known,  than  that  they  abound  with  nitrous  earth;  that  they  spring  up 
with  vaulted  roofs,  or  run  along,  for  miles,  in  regular  oblong  excavations. 
A cave,  which  may  be  descended  some  hundred  feet,  and  traced  a mile 
in  length,  is  scarcely  pointed  out  to  the  traveller,  as  an  object  worthy  of 
particular  notice.  The  most  remarkable  of  these  subterranean  wonders 
has  been  traced  ten  miles. 

Climate  and  Productions.  The  climate  of  this  medial  region,  between 
the  northern  and  southern  extremities  of  the  country,  is  delightful. — 
Tennessee  has  a much  milder  temperature  than  Kentucky.  In  West 
Tennessee  great  quantities  of  cotton  are  raised ; and  the  growing  of  that 
article  is  the  staple  of  agriculture.  Snows,  however,  of  some  depth  are 
frequent  in  the  winter.  But  the  summers,  especially  in  the  more  elevated 
regions,  are  mild ; and  have  not  the  sustained  ardors  of  the  same  season 
in  Florida  aiufflLouisiana.  Apples,  pears,  and  plums,  which  are  properly 
northern  fruits,  are  raised  in  great  perfection.  The  season  of  planting 
for  maize,  in  the  central  parts  of  the  state,  is  early  in  April.  In  elevated 
and  favorable  positions,  no  part  of  the  United  States  is  healthier.  In  the 
low  vallies  where  stagnant  waters  abound,  and  on  the  alluvions  of  the 
great  rivers,  it  is  sickly. 

Almost  all  the  forest  trees  of  the  western  country  are  found  within  the 
limits  of  this  state.  The  laurel  tribes  are  not  common.  Juniper,  red 
cedar,  and  savine  are  seen  on  the  numberless  summits  and  declivities  of 
the  mountains.  Cotton,  indigo,  corn,  whiskey,  horses,  cattle,  flour,  gun 
powder,  salt  petre,  poultry,  bacon,  lard,  butter,  apples,  pork,  coarse  linen, 


Tennessee. 


337 

tobacco,  and  various  other  articles  constitute  the  loading  of  boats,  that 
Come  down  the  Cumberland  and  the  Tennessee ; and  these  articles  are 
produced  in  great  abundance.  Cotton,  of  a certain  quality,  is  known  by 
the  name  of  Tennessee  cotton,  in  all  places  where  American  commerce 
has  reached.  In  sheltered  situations  figs  might  be  raised  in  perfection. 
The  present  cutlets  of  the  commerce  of  the  state  are  the  Cumberland  and 
Tennessee  rivers.  The  southern  divisions  of  this  state  are  so  much 
nearer  the  gulf  of  Mexico  by  the  Alabama  that  there  can  be  no  doubt, 
that  the  enlightened  and  enterprising  people  will,  before  long,  make 
canals,  which  shall  connect  the  waters  of  the  Tennessee  with  those  of  the 
Alabama  and  Mobile;  and  thus  shorten  the  very  circuitous  present 
communications  of  this  state  with  the  gulf  of  Mexico  to  one  third  of 
their  present  distance. 

Rivers.  We  have  already  described  the  Tennessee,  and  its  principal 
branches,  under  the  head  of  Alabama.  It  may  not  be  amiss  to  repeat, 

that  it  rises  in  the  Alleghany  mountains,  traverses  East  Tennessee,  and 
almost  the  whole  northern  limit  of  Alabama,  enters  Tennessee,  and 
crosses  nearly  the  whole  width  of  it  into  Kentucky,  and  thence  empties 
into  the  Ohio.  Its  whole  course,  from  its  fountains  to  that  river,  is  longer 
than  that  of  the  Ohio  from  Pittsburgh  to  its  mouth,  being  by  its  meanders, 
nearly  1,200  miles.  It  is  by  far  the  largest  tributary  of  the  Ohio;  and 
it  is  a question,  if  it  do  not  furnish  as  much  water  as  the  main  river.  It 
is  susceptible  of  boat  navigation  for  at  least  a thousand  miles.  It  enters 
the  Ohio  thirteen  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Cumberland,  and  fifty- 
seven  above  that  of  the  Ohio.  Its  head  branches  in  East  Tennessee  are 
Holston,  Nolachucky,  French  Broad,  Tellico,  Richland,  Clinch,  Big 
Emery,  and  Hiwassee  rivers.  In  its  whole  progress,  it  is  continually 
receiving  rivers,  that  have  longer  or  shorter  courses  among  the  mountains. 
The  principal  of  these  are  Powell’s,  Sequalchee,  Elk  and  Duck  rivers. 

The  Cumberland  rises  in  the  Cumberland  mountains,  in  the  south-east 
part  of  Kentucky,  through  which  it  has  a course  of  nearly  200  miles.  It 
has  a circuit  in  Tennessee  of  250  miles;  and  joins  the  Ohio  in  the  state  of 
Kentucky.  Its  principal  branches,  in  this  state  are  Obed’s  river,  Carey’s 
Fork,  Stone’s,  Harpeth,  and  Red  rivers.  Most  of  the  tributaries  of  this 
and  Tennessee  rivers  rise  in  the  mountains,  and  are  too  shallow  for  boat 
navigation,  except  in  the  time  of  floods.  Occasional  floods  occur  at  all 
seasons  of  the  year,  in  which  flat  boats  can  be  floated  down  to  the  main 
river,  to  await  the  stage  of  water,  when  that,  also,  shall  be  navigable  to 
New  Orleans.  Obian,  Forked  Deer,  Big  Hatchee  and  Wolf  rivers,  enter 
the  Mississippi  on  the  western  boundary  of  the  state.  These  rivers  form 
important  boatable  communications  from  the  interior  of  that  large  and  fine 
district  of  country,  4 the  Jackson  purchase,’  with  the  Mississippi.  It 

43 


838 


TENNESSEE. 


would  form  but  a barren  catalogue  of  barbarous  words*  to  give  the  names 
of  all  the  rivers,  large  and  small,  that  water  this  state.  No  part  of  the 
western  country  is  better  watered.  It  is  a country  of  hills  and  mountains, 
and  mountain  streams,  and  beautiful  vallies. 

The  Jackson  purchase  in  the  west  part  of  Tennessee  has  not  been  settled 
more  than  13  years,*  but  its  fertility  and  prosperity  are  indicated  by  the 
fact,  that  there  are  already  15  or  16  counties  in  it. 

Agriculture , Produce  and  Manufactures.  Cotton  is  the  staple  article 
of  growth.  But  the  soil  and  climate  rear  all  the  products  ofKentucky,  in 
abundance;  and  as  neither  in  the  staple  of  the  cotton,  or  its  amount,  can 
they  compete  with  the  more  southern  states,  and  taking  into  view  the 
great  depression  of  the  price  of  that  article,  it  is  hoped,  that  the  hardy 
and  intelligent  farmers  of  this  great  state  will  turn  their  attention  to  some 
other  articles  of  cultivation,  particularly  the  silk  mulberry,  the  vine,  and 
the  raising  of  bees,  for  which  the  soil  and  climate  seem  to  be  admirably 
fitted.  Wheat,  rye,  barley,  spelts,  oats,  Indian  corn,  all  the  fruits  of  the 
United  States,  with  the  exception  of  oranges,  grow  luxuriantly  here.  In 
East  Tennessee,  considerable  attention  is  paid  to  raising  cattle  and  horses, 
which  are  driven  over  the  mountains  to  the  Atlantic  country  for  sale.  In 
1820,  the  number  of  persons  employed  in  agriculture  was  109,919;  and 
in  manufactures  7,860.  The  amount  of  articles  manufactured  was 
estimated  at  between  four  and  five  millions  of  dollars.  The  principal 
articles  were  iron,  hemp,  cotton  and  cordage.  The  exportsdrave  hitherto 
been  through  New  Orleans.  Some  of  the  articles  are  sent  to  the  head 
waters  of  the  Ohio,  and  recently  some  have  been  wagoned  across  the 
ridges  to  the  waters  of  the  Alabama,  and  have  found  their  way  to  the  gulf 
by  Mobile.  Over  a thousand  persons  are  employed  in  conducting  the 
commerce  of  the  state. 

Chief  Towns.  Murfreesborough  was  until  recently  the  political 
metropolis  of  the  state.  It  is  situated  on  Stone’s  river,  thirty-two  miles 
south-east  from  Nashville;  and  contains  about  fourteen  hundred  inhab- 
itants. It  is  ^central  to  the  two  great  divisions  of  the  state,  and  is 
surrounded  by  a delightful  and  thriving  country. 

Nashville  is  the  present  capital  of  the  state,  and  the  largest  town  in  it. 
It  is  very  pleasantly  situated  on  the  south  shore  of  the  Cumberland, 
adjacent  to  fine  bluffs.  Steam  boats  can  ordinarily  ascend  to  this  place ? 
as  long  as  they  can  descend  from  the  mouth  of  the  Cumberland  to  that 
of  the  Ohio.  It  is  a place,  that  will  be  often  visited,  as  a resort  for  the 
people  of  the  lower  country,  during  the  sultry  months.  Scarcely  any 
town  in  the  western  country,  has  advanced  with  more  rapid  strides. 

The  legislature  has  rescinded  a law  forbidding  the  introduction  of  any 
branch  of  the  bank  of  the  United  States  into  this  state.  A branch  of  that 


TENNESSEE. 


339 


bank  has  been  fixed  here,  and  has  greatly  favoured  the  growth  of  the  town. 
A splendid  hotel,  which  had  been  burnt,  has  been  rebuilt  in  more  than  its 
former  beauty.  The  town  is  adorned  with  one  of  the  largest  and 
handsomest  market  houses  in  the  western  country.  It  is  the  seat  of  the 
university  of  Nashville,  which,  in  regard  to  its  professorships,  library, 
chemical  and  philosophical  apparatus,  the  estimation  of  its  president,  and 
the  actual  fruits  of  its  utility,  has  taken  a high  place  among  western  insti- 
tutions of  the  kind.  It  has  a number  of  churches,  a lyceum,  and  many 
handsome  private  dwellings.  It  issues  four  or  five  gazettes,  which  rank 
among  the  most  respectable  in  the  West.  The  citizens  in  general,  evince 
an  encouraging  interest  in  the  advancement  of  science,  literature  and 
taste.  Few  towns  impart  more  pleasant  impressions  of  general  hospitality 
and  urbanity  to  strangers.  It  contains  5,111  inhabitants.  It  is  714  miles 
south-west  from  Washington;  594  north-east  from  New  Orleans;  294 
south-west  from  Cincinnati;  288  south  from  Indianapolis,  and  937  south- 
west from  New  York. 

Knoxville,  the  chief  town  of  East  Tennessee,  is  situated  on  Holston 
river,  four  miles  below  its  junction  with  French  Broad.  It  contains  about 
3,000  inhabitants ; has  growing  manufactures,  a respectable  seminary  of 
learning,  and  is  a pleasant  and  thriving  place.  Knoxville  college  in  this 
town,  is  one  of  the  oldest  seminaries  in  the  state.  Beside  this  and  Nash- 
ville university,  there  is  Greenville  college,  incorporated  in  1794,  with 
from  30  to  40  students,  and  the  theological  institution  at  Marysville  in 
East  Tennessee.  It  has  a library  of  5,500  volumes;  is  under  Presby- 
terian supervision,  containing  in  the  theological  and  academical 
departments,  55  students. 

The  following  are  considerable  villages,  containing  from  500  to  1,500 
inhabitants.  Blountsville,  Rogersville,  and  Rutledge  on  Holston  river. 
Tazewell,  Grantsborough  and  Kingston,  on  Clinch  river;  Jonesborough, 
Greenville,  Newport,  Dandridge,  Sevierville  on  French  Broad  and  its 
waters;  Marysville,  Washington,  Pikeville,  Madison,  Winchester,  Fayette- 
ville, Pulaski,  Shelbyville,  Columbia,  Vernon  and  Reynoldsburg  on  the 
Tennessee  and  its  waters.  Montgomery,  Monroe,  Sparta,  Carthage, 
Gallatin,  Lebanon,  M’Minnville,  Jefferson,  Franklin,  Haysborough, 
Charlotte,  Springfield,  Clarksville  on  the  Cumberland  and  its  waters. 
One  of  the  most  terrible  storms  recorded  in  the  annals  of  our  country, 
occurred  in  May,  1830,  in  a district  of  which  Carthage  and  Shelbyville, 
were  the  centre.  It  was  a mingled  tempest  of  wind,  thunder,  lightning 
and  rain.  Trees,  houses,  and  every  thing  on  the  surface  were  prostrated. 
Five  persons  were  killed,  and  many  wounded ; and  property  destroyed  to 
the  value  of  80,000  dollars.  Memphis  occupies  the  former  site  of  Fort 
Pickering.  It  stands  on  one  of  the  noblest  bluffs  of  the  Mississippi, 


340 


TENNESSEE. 


proudly  elevated  above  that  river,  and  its  fine  opposite  bottoms.  A 
beautiful  rolling  country  surrounds  it  in  the  rear.  A remnant  of  the  tribe 
of  the  Chickasaws  resides  near  it.  The  original  inhabitants  of  this  village 
were  chiefly  of  mixed  blood.  Since  it  has  taken  such  an  imposing  name 
it  has  made  considerable  progress,  and  from  its  intermediate  position  be- 
tween the  upper  and  lower  country,  and  from  its  being  the  point  of  general 
traverse  from  Tennessee  to  the  vast  regions  on  the  Arkansas,  Washita, 
and  Red  River,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  that  it  will  ultimately  become  a 
considerable  place.  It  is  one  of  the  places  on  the  Mississippi,  which 
passing  steam  boats  generally  honor  with  the  discharge  of  their  cannon, 
as  they  ascend  the  river  by  it.  At  no  great  distance  back  of  this  town,  is 
Nashoba,  the  seat  of  the  grand  experiment  of  Miss  Frances  Wright,  in 
her  attempts  to  educate  and  emancipate  slaves. 

Natural  Curiosities . This  would  easily  swell  to  a copious  article. 

We  have  already  touched  on  the  singular  configuration  of  the  lime  stone 
substrata  of  this  country,  from  which  it  results,  that  there  are  numberless 
extensive  cavities  in  the  earth.  Some  have  supposed  that  these  hollows 
are  extended  under  the  greater  part  of  the  surface  of  the  state.  Springs, 
and  even  considerable  streams  of  water  flow  in  them,  and  have  subterran- 
eous courses.  Caves  have  been  explored  at  great  depths  for  an  extent  of 
ten  miles.  They  abound  in  singular  chambers,  prodigious  vaulted  apart- 
ments, and  many  of  them,  when  faintly  illumined  with  the  torches  of  the 
visitants,  have  a gloomy  grandeur,  which  no  description  could  reach. 
The  bones  of  animals,  and  in  some  instances,  human  skeletons  have  been 
found  in  them.  The  earth  of  these  caves  is  impregnated  strongly  with 
nitrate  of  lime,  from  which  any  quantity  of  gun  powder  might  be  made. 

On  some  spurs  of  the  Cumberland  Mountains,  called  the  Enchanted 
Mountains,  are  marked  in  the  solid  limestone,  footsteps  of  men,  horses, 
and  other  animals,  as  fresh  as  though  recently  made,  and  as  distinct  as 
though  impressed  upon  clay  mortar.  The  tracts  often  indicate,  that  the 
feet  which  made  them,  had  slidden,  as  would  be  the  case  in  descending 
declivities  in  soft  clay.  They  are  precisely  of  the  same  class  with  the 
impress  of  two  human  feet  found  in  a block  of  solid  limestone,  quarried 
at  St.  Louis  on  the  margin  of  the  Mississippi.  The  manner  in  which 
they  were  produced  is  entirely  inexplicable. 

Tennessee  is  abundant  in  petrifactions  and  organic  remains.  Near  the 
southern  boundary  of  the  state  are  three  trees  entirely  petrified.  One  is 
a cypress,  four  feet  in  diameter.  The  other  is  a sycamore,  and  the  third 
is  a hickory.  They  were  brought  to  light  by  the  falling  in  of  the  south 
bank  of  the  Tennessee.  A nest  of  eggs  of  the  wild  turkey  were  dug 
up  in  a state  of  petrifaction.  Prodigious  claws,  teeth,  and  other  bones  of 
animals  are  found  near  the  salines.  A tooth  was  recently  in  the  posses- 


TENNESSEE. 


341 


sion  of  Jeremiah  Brown,  Esq.  which  Judge  Haywood  affirms,  measured  a 
number  of  feet  in  length,  and  at  the  insertion  of  the  jaw  was  eight  inches 
broad.  At  a sulphur  spring  12  miles  from  Reynoldsburgh,  was  found  a 
tusk  of  such  enormous  dimensions,  as  that  it  was  supposed  to  weigh  from 
1 to  200  pounds.  It  is  shining,  yellow,  and  perfectly  retains  the  original 
conformation.  Near  it  were  found  other  bones,  supposed  to  belong  to 
the  same  huge  animal.  It  is  calculated,  from  the  appearance  and  size  of 
the  bones,  that  the  animal,  when  living,  must  have  been  20  feet  high. 
Logs  and  coal,  both  pit  and  charcoal  are  often  dug  up  in  this  state,  at 
depths  from  60  to  100  feet  below  the  surface.  Jugs,  vases,  and  idols  of 
moulded  clay  have  been  found  in  so  many  places,  as  hardly  to  be  deemed 
curiosities.  Walls  of  faced  stone,  and  even  walled  wells  have  been  found 
in  so  many  places,  and  under  such  circumstances,  and  at  such  depths,  as 
to  preclude  the  idea  of  their  having  been  made  by  the  whites  of  the 
present  day,  or  the  past  generation.  In  this  state,  as  well  as  in  Missouri, 
burying  grounds  have  been  found,  where  the  skeletons  seem  all  to  have 
been  pigmies.  The  graves  in  which  the  bodies  were  deposited,  are  sel- 
dom more  than  two  feet,  or  two  feet  and  a half  in  length.  To  obviate 
the  objection,  that  these  are  all  bodies  of  children,  it  is  affirmed  that 
these  skulls  are  found  to  possess  the  dentes  sapientioe  and  must  have  be- 
longed to  persons  of  mature  age. 

There  are  many  beautiful  cascades  in  Tennessee.  One  of  the  most  strik- 
ing is  that,  known  by  the  name  of  the  ‘falling  water?  The  cascade  is  8 
miles  above  its  junction  with  the  Caney  Fork,  and  nearly  50  from  Car- 
thage. For  some  distance  above,  the  river  is  a continual  cataract,  having 
fallen,  in  a little  distance,  150  feet.  The  Tail,’  or  perpendicular  leap,  is 
200  feet,  or  as  some  measure  it,  150  feet.  The  width  of  the  sheet  is  80 
feet,  and  the  noise  is  deafening.  Taylor’s  Creek  fall  is  somewhat  greater 
than  this.  It  is  differently  estimated  from  200  to  250.  The  descent  to  the 
foot  of  the  rock  is  difficult  and  dangerous : but  the  grandeur  of  the  spectacle 
richly  compensates  the  hazard.  The  spectator  finds  himself  almost  shut 
out  from  the  view  of  the  sky,  by  an  overhanging  cliff,  between  3 and  400 
feet  high.  The  stream  before  him,  falling  from  the  last  rock  in  sheets  of 
foam,  almost  deafens  him  with  the  noise.  A considerable  breeze  is  created 
by  the  fall,  and  the  mist  is  driven  from  the  falling  spray  like  rain.  Twenty 
yards  below  this,  on  the  south  side,  is  the  most  beautiful  cascade  of  which 
the  imagination  can  conceive.  A creek  six  or  eight  feet  wide,  falls  from 
the  summit  of  an  overhanging  rock,  a distance  of  at  least  300  feet.  The 
water,  in  its  descent,  is  divided  into  a thousand  little  streams,  which  are 
often  driven  by  the  wind,  in  showers  of  rain,  for  a number  of  yards 
distance. 


342 


TENNESSEE. 


Much  discussion  has  ensued,  and  much  useless  learning  been  thrown 
away,  touching  some  silver  and  copper  coins,  found  some  years  since,  at  a 
little  distance  below  the  surface,  near  Fayetteville,  in  this  state.  One  of 
the  silver  coins  purports  to  be  of  Antonius  and  the  other  of  Commodus. 
The  earth  under  which  the  copper  coins  were  found,  was  covered  with 
trees,  which  could  not  be  less  than  400  years  old.  There  can  be  no  doubt 
that  such  coins  were  found;  and  there  seems  some  difficulty  in  supposing 
them  to  have  been  deposited,  merely  to  play  upon  the  credulity  of  some 
virtuoso.  But,  as  such  deceptions  have  been  known  to  be  practised,  in 
some  instances,  we  offer  it  as  a possible  solution. 

The  paintings,  that  are  found  on  some  high,  and  apparently  inaccessible 
rocks,  in  this  state,  have  been  mentioned  as  curiosities,  ever  since  it  has 
been  visited  by  white  men.  The  figures  are  of  the  sun,  moon,  animals, 
and  serpents;  and  are  out  of  question  the  work  of  former  races  of  men. 
The  colors  are  presented  as  fresh  as  though  recently  done,  and  the  delin- 
eations in  some  instances  are  vivid  and  ingenious. 

A curious  appearance,  so  common  to  the  people  of  the  country,  as  no 
longer  to  strike  them  with  wonder,  is  the  immensely  deep  channels,  in 
which  many  of  the  streams  of  this  country  run.  Descending  many  of 
them,  that  are  large  enough  to  be  boatable,  the  astonished  voyager  looks 
up,  and  sees  himself  borne  along  a river  running  at  the  base  of  perpen- 
dicular lime  stone  walls,  sometimes  3 or  400  feet  high.  The  view  is  still 
more  grand  and  surprising,  when  the  spectator  looks  down  from  above, 
and  sees  the  dark  waters  rolling  at  such  prodigious  depths  below  him,  in  a 
regular  excavation,  that  seems  to  have  been  hewn  from  the  solid  lime- 
stone, on  purpose  to  receive  the  river. 

Constitution.  This  has  no  essential  difference  of  feature  from  that  of 
the  other  western  states.  In  the  legislature  the  number  of  representatives 
bears  a given  proportion  to  the  number  of  taxable  inhabitants,  and  the 
number  of  senators  must  never  be  more  than  one-half,  or  less  than  one-third 
of  the  number  of  representatives.  To  be  eligible,  as  members  of  either 
house,  the  person  must  have  resided  three  years  in  the  state,  and  one  in  the 
county;  and  be  possessed  of  200  acres  of  land.  The  governor  is  elected 
for  two  years,  and  is  eligible  six  years  out  of  eight.  He  must  be  25  years 
of  age ; must  have  resided  in  the  state  four  years,  and  must  possess  500 
acres  of  land,  to  be  eligible  to  that  office.  The  judiciary  is  divided  into 
courts  of  law  and  equity.  The  legislature  appoints  the  judges,  to  hold 
their  office  during  good  behaviour.  All  free  men  21  years  of  age,  and 
who  have  resided  in  the  county  six  months  preceding  the  election,  possess 
the  elective  franchise. 

Schools.  There  are  four  institutions  in  the  state,  which  bear  the  name 
of  colleges;  one  at  Nashville,  one  at  Knoxville,  one  at  Marysville,  and 
Kremer  Collge,  since  changed  to  the  name  of  Jefferson.  The  Cumber- 


TENNESSEE. 


343 


land  Presbyterians  are  making  great  efforts  to  rear  a theological  institu- 
tion, in  which  to  train  young  men  for  their  worship.  The  college  at 
Nashville  has  already  yielded  most  efficient  aid  to  the  literature  of  the 
state.  Academies  and  common  schools  are  increasing,  and  the  people 
seem  to  be  awakening  to  a sense  of  the  importance  of  education  to  the 
preservation  of  our  republican  institutions. 

History.  Tennessee  asserts  claims,  along  with  Kentucky,  to  be  the 
common  mother  of  the  western  states.  She  fills  a large  and  conspicuous 
place  in  the  early  annals  of  the  West.  No  state  suffered  more  terribly  in 
its  commencement,  from  the  savages.  None  evinced  a deeper  stake  in 
the  early  altercations  with  Spain,  touching  the  right  of  navigating  the 
Mississippi.  Her  fierce  disputes  with  the  mother  state,  North  Carolina, 
and  the  intestine  broils,  which  gave  origin  to  the  short  lived  republic  of 
Frankland,  while  she  made  arrangements  to  become  an  independent 
state,  have  already  been  recorded.  She  has  already  sent  abroad  thousands 
of  her  sons,  to  people  the  states  of  Missouri,  Illinois,  Mississippi, 
Louisiana,  and  Florida,  Arkansas,  and  even  Texas  in  the  Mexican  country. 
Yet  the  census  of  1830  has  presented  her  in  the  commanding  attitude  of 
numbering  nearly  700,000  inhabitants,  being  the  second  most  populous 
of  the  western  states.  This  result  creates  the  more  surprize,  in  as  much  as 
every  one  conversant  with  the  states  and  territories  beyond,  knows  how 
largely  emigrants  from  this  state  have  contributed  to  their  settlement,* 
and  as  this  is  the  only  one  of  the  slave  states  which  has  shown  an  increase 
commensurate  with  the  free  states. 

The  legislature  of  this  state  has  evinced  a spirit  of  munificence  and 
enterprize,  in  regard  to  literature  and  public  institutions  highly  creditable. 
It  has  recently  appropriated  25,000  dollars  for  the  erection  of  a peniten- 
tiary, and  150,000  dollars  for  internal  improvements.  It  deems,  that  by 
an  easy  improvement  of  the  navigation  of  the  Tennessee  and  Holston 
rivers,  the  state  will  save  150,000  dollars  annually,  in  the  transport  of  the 
single  article  of  salt. 

Tennessee  has  availed  herself  of  her  influence  of  seniority  and  impor- 
tance in  the  west,  by  leaving  a respectable  impress  of  her  character  on  the 
states  and  territories  beyond  her.  No  state  shared  a prouder  part  in  the 
late  war.  She  has  already  given  a President  to  the  Union.  Her  march 
since  she  became  a state,  has  been  almost  uniformly  patriotic  and  prosper- 
ous, and  she  has  already  attained  to  a high  relative  rank  in  the  general 
confederacy. 


KENTUCKY. 


Medial  length,  400  miles.  Medial  breadth,  150  miles:  contains 
40,000  square  miles.  Bounded  north  by  the  river  Ohio,  which  separates 
it  from  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois;  east  by  Virginia;  south  by  Tennessee; 
and  west  by  the  Mississippi,  which  separates  it  from  Missouri. 


Counties . 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 

County  Towns.  Distances  from  Frankfort, 

Adair, 

Columbia, 

91  miles. 

Allen, 

Scottsville, 

151 

Anderson, 

Lawrenceburgh, 

12 

Barren  7 

Glasgow, 

126 

Bath, 

Owingsville, 

73 

Boone, 

Burlington, 

72 

Bourbon, 

Paris, 

43 

Bracken, 

Augusta, 

73 

Brackenridge, 

Hardinsburgh, 

118 

Bullitt, 

Shepherdsville, 

74 

Butler, 

Morgantown, 

141 

Caldwell, 

Princeton, 

229 

Callaway, 

Wadesboro’, 

262 

Campbell, 

Newport, 

99 

Casey, 

Liberty, 

66 

Christian, 

Hopkinsville, 

206 

Clark, 

Winchester, 

45 

Clay, 

Manchester, 

115 

Cumberland, 

Burkesville, 

119 

Daviess, 

Owensboro’, 

150 

Edmonson, 

Brownsville, 

138 

Estill, 

Irvine, 

71 

KENTUCKY, 


345 


Fayette, 

Lexington, 

25 

Fleming, 

Flemingburgn, 

79 

Floyd, 

Prestonburgb, 

142 

Franklin, 

Frankfort, 

Gallatin, 

Port  William, 

57 

Garrard, 

Lancaster, 

52 

Grant, 

Williamstown, 

44 

Graves, 

Mayfield, 

284 

Grayson, 

Litchfield, 

110 

Greene, 

Greensburgh, 

90 

Greenup, 

Greenup  C.  H. 

132 

Hancock, 

Hawsville, 

130 

Hardin, 

Elizabethtown, 

SO 

Harland, 

Harlan  C.  H. 

168 

Harrison, 

Cynthiana,. 

38 

Hart, 

Munfordsville, 

105 

Henderson, 

Henderson, 

ISO 

Henry, 

Newcastle, 

37 

Hickman, 

Clinton, 

308 

Hopkins, 

Madison  ville, 

200 

Jefferson, 

Louisville, 

52 

Jessamine, 

Nicholasville, 

37 

Knox, 

Barboursville  C.  H. 

122 

Laurel, 

Hazel  Patch, 

102 

Lawrence, 

Louisa, 

127 

Lewis , 

Clarksburgh, 

96 

Lincoln, 

Stanford, 

51 

Livingston , 

Salem, 

245 

Logan, 

Russellville, 

171 

McCracken, 

Wilmington, 

289 

Madison, 

Richmond, 

50 

Mason, 

Washington, 

63 

Mead 

Brandenburgh , 

90 

Mercer, 

Harrodsburgh, 

30 

Monroe, 

Tompkinsville, 

144 

Montgomery, 

Mount  Sterling, 

60 

Morgan, 

West  Liberty, 

107 

Muhlenburgh, 

Greenville  C.  H„ 

177 

Nelson, 

Bardstown, 

55 

Nicholas, 

Carlisle, 

58 

44 


346 


KENTUCKY. 


Ohio, 

Hartford, 

154 

Oldham, 

Westport , 

44 

Owen, 

Owenton , 

28 

Pendleton, 

Falmouth, 

60 

Perry, 

Perry  C.  H. 

148 

Pike, 

Piketon, 

165 

Pulaski, 

Somerset, 

85 

Rock  Castle, 

Mount  Vernon, 

73 

Russell, 

Jamestown, 

109 

Scott, 

Georgetown, 

17 

Shelby, 

Shelbyville, 

,21 

Simpson, 

Franklin, 

1,65 

Spencer, 

Taylorsville, 

35 

Todd, 

Elkton, 

186 

Trigg, 

Cadiz, 

226 

Union, 

Morganfield, 

205 

Warren, 

Bowling  Green, 

145 

Washington, 

Springfield, 

50 

Wayne, 

Monticello, 

110 

Whitely, 

Whitely  C.  H. 

130 

Woodford, 

Versailles, 

13 

The  census  of  1830  gives  the  population  of  this  state  as  follows:— 
Whites,  518,678  ; Slaves,  165,350.  Total,  688,844. 

From  the  eastern  limit  of  this  state,  where  it  bounds  on  Virginia,  to  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio,  is  between  6 and  700  miles.  In  this  whole  distance, 
the  northern  limit  of  the  state  is  on  the  Ohio.  Thence  it  bounds  on  the 
Mississippi  between  40  and  50  miles.  Almost  the  whole  of  the  state, 
therefore,  in  its  configuration,  belongs  to  the  valley  of  the  Ohio.  The 
eastern  and  southern  front  of  the  state  touches  upon  the  Alleghany 
mountains,  whose  spurs  descend,  for  a considerable  distance,  into  it. — 
Beyond  the  lower  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Tennessee,  the  Kentucky 
shore  slopes  to  the  Mississippi.  The  rivers  Tennessee,  Cumberland,  and 
Kentucky  have  broad  and  deep  vallies.  The  valley  of  Green  River,  and 
that  in  the  central  parts  of  the  state  are  noted  for  their  extent,  beauty, 
and  fertility.  But,  though  Kentucky  has  been  generally  estimated  ta 
possess  larger  bodies  of  fertile  land,  than  any  other  western  state,  and 
although  nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  great  valley,  of  which 
Lexington  is  the  centre,  yet  there  are  in  Kentucky  large  sterile  tracts, 
and  much  land  too  mountainous,  or  too  poor  for  cultivation.  The  centre 
of  the  state  is  delightfully  rolling.  A tract  of  country,  nearly  100  miles  in 
one  direction  and  50  in  the  other,  is  found  here,  which  for  beauty  of 


KENTUCKY. 


347 


surface,  amenity  of  landscape,  the  delightful  aspect  of  its  open  groves, 
and  the  extreme  fertility  of  its  soil,  exceeds  perhaps  any  other  tract  of 
country  of  the  same  extent.  Under  this  great  extent,  at  a depth  of  from 
three  to  ten  feet  is  a substratum  or  floor  of  limestone.  So  much  dissolved 
lime  is  mixed  with  the  soil,  as  to  impart  to  it  a warm  and  forcing  quality, 
which  imparts,  when  the  earth  is  sufficiently  moist,  an  inexpressible 
freshness  and  vigor  to  the  vegetation.  Through  this  beautiful  country 
meander  the  Little  Sandy,  Licking,  Kentucky  and  Salt  Rivers,  and  their 
numerous  branches.  In  it  there  are  few  precipitous  hills.  Much  of  the 
soil  is  of  that  character,  technically  known  by  the  name  £ mulatto  land? 
The  woods  have  a charming  aspect,  as  though  they  were  promiscuously 
arranged  for  a pleasure  ground.  Grape  vines  of  prodigious  size  climb 
the  trees,  and  spread  their  umbrageous  leaves  over  all  the  other  verdure. 
Black  walnut,  black  cherry,  honey  locust,  buck  eye,  pawpaw,  sugar  tree, 
mulberry,  elm,  ash,  hawthorn,  coffee  tree,  and  the  grand  yellow  poplar, 
trees  which  indicate  the  richest  soil,  are  every  where  abundant.  In  the 
first  periods  of  the  settlement  of  the  country,  if  was  covered  with  a thick 
cane  brake,  that  has  disappeared,  and  has  been  replaced  by  a beautiful 
grass  sward  of  a peculiar  cast  even  in  the  forest.  In  the  early  periods  of 
spring,  along  with  the  purple  and  redundant  flowers  of  the  red  bud,  and 
the  beautiful  white  blossoms  of  the  dog  wood,  there  is  an  abundance  of 
that 'beautiful  plant,  the  May  apple,  the  rich  verdure  of  which  has  an  in- 
describable effect  upon  the  eye.  The  trees  generally  are  not  large,  but 
tail,  straight,  and  taper ; and  have  the  aspect  of  having  been  transplanted 
to  the  places  which  they  occupy.  Innumerable  branches  wind  among 
these  copses  • and  in  the  declivites  burst  out  springs  of  pure  lime  stone 
water. 

That  part  of  the  state,  which'  borders  on  Tennessee  and  Virginia,  re- 
sembles the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Alleghanies  in  Tennessee.  The 
landscape  painter  might  come  here,  and  find,  that  nature  had  transcended 
any  mental  conceptions  of  the  beau  ideal  of  scenery.  The  numerous 
mountain  branches  wind  round  the  bases  of  the  small  table  hills,  cutting 
down  deep  and  almost  frightful  gullies,  and  forming  ‘caves,’  as  they  are 
called  by  the  people,  or  gulfs,  covered  with  the  shade  of  immensely  large 
poplars,  often  eight  feet  in  diameter.  Such  a tree  will  throw  into  the  air 
a column  of  an  hundred  feet  shaft.  No  words  would  convey  adequate 
ideas  of  the  lonely  beauty  of  some  of  these  secluded  spots. 

Between  the  Rolling  Fork  of  Salt  river  and  Green  river  is  a very  ex- 
tensive tract,  called  ‘barrens.’  The  soil  is  generally  good,  though  not  of 
the  first  quality.  But  the  country,  sparsely  shaded  with  trees,  is  covered 
with  grass  like  a prairie,  and  affords  a fine  range  for  cattle.  Between  Green 


348 


KENTUCKY. 


and  Cumberland  rivers  is  a still  larger  tract  of ‘barrens.’  Spread  over  this 
district  is  an  immense  number  of  knobs,  covered  with  shrubby  and  post 
oaks.  In  the  year  1800,  the  legislature  made  a gratuitous  grant  of  400 
acres  of  this  land  to  every  man,  who  chose  to  become  an  actual  settler. 
A great  many  occupants  were  found  on  these  conditions.  The  country 
proved  to  be  uncommonly  healthy.  So  much  of  the  land  was  incapable 
of  clearing  and  cultivation  from  a variety  of  causes,  that  the  range  will 
probably  remain  unimpaired  for  a long  time.  Game  abounds.  Swine 
are  raised  with  the  greatest  ease.  Enough  land  is  capable  of  cultivation, 
to  supply  all  the  needs  of  the  settlers.  Many  farmers  on  this  soil  make 
fine  tobacco.  These  lands  have  come  into  reputation;  and  they  who 
received  their  farms  as  a free  gift,  are  now  living  comfortably  and  rearing 
respectable  families  in  rustic  independence. 

For  variety  of  hill  and  dale,  for  the  excellence  of  the  soil,  yielding  in 
abundance,  all  that  is  necessary  for  comfortable  subsistence,  for  amenity 
of  landscape,  beauty  of  forest,  the  number  of  clear  streams  and  fine 
rivers,  health,  and  the  finest  developement  of  the  human  form,  and  patri- 
archial  simplicity  of  rural  opulence,  we  question  if  any  country  can  be 
found  surpassing  Kentucky.  We  have  heard  the  hoary  ‘residenters,’  the 
compatriots  of  Daniel  Boone,  speak  of  it  as  it  appeared  to  them,  when 
they  first  emigrated  from  their  native  Virginia  and  North  Carolina.  It  was 
in  the  spring  when  they  arrived.  The  only  paths  among  the  beautiful 
groves,  were  those  which  the  buffaloes  and  bears  had  broken  through  the 
cane  brakes.  The  wilderness  displayed  one  extended  tuft  of  blossoms. 
A man  stationed  near  one  of  these  paths,  could  kill  game  enough,  with  a 
proportion  of  turkeys  and  other  large  birds,  in  an  hour,  to  supply  the 
wants  of  a month.  There  can  be  no  wonder  that  hunters,  men  who  had 
been  reared  among  the  comparatively  sterile  hills  of  Virginia  and  North 
Carolina,  men  who  loved  to  range  mountain  streams,  and  sheltered  glades, 
should  have  fancied  this  a terrestrial  paradise.  The  beautiful  configuration 
of  the  soil  remains  The  whole  state  is  studded  with  plantations.  The 
buffaloes,  bears,  Indians,  and  the  cane  brake,  the  wild,  and  much  of  the 
naturally  beautiful  of  the  country  is  no  more.  The  aged  settlers  look  back 
to  the  period  of  this  first  settlement  as  a golden  age.  To  them  the  earth 
seems  to  have  been  cursed  with  natural  and  moral  degeneracy,  deformity 
and  sterility,  in  consequence  of  having  been  settled.  This  is  one  of  the 
solutions  to  account  for  that  restless  desire  to  leave  the  settled  country, 
and  to  emigrate  to  new  regions,  which  so  strongly  marks  many  of  the  old 
settlers. 

Rivers.  The  Ohio  washes  a long  extent  of  the  northern  frontier;  and 
the  Mississippi  a considerable  distance  of  the  south-western  shore.  The 


KENTUCKY. 


349 


former  river  we  propose  to  describe  under  the  head  of  the  state  of  Ohio ; 
and  the  latter  has  already  been  described.  Most  of  the  rivers  of  this  state 
rise  in  its  southern  limits,  and  flow  northwardly  into  the  Ohio.  The  state 
may  be  considered  as  one  vast  plateau,  or  glacis,  sloping  from  the  Alle- 
ghany hills  to  the  Ohio. 

Big  Sandy  rises  in  the  Alleghany  Mountains  near  the  heads  of  Cum- 
berland and  Clinch,  and  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  state  for 
nearly  200  miles.  Forty  miles  before  its  entrance  into  the  Ohio,  it 
divides  into  two  branches,  the  North-East  and  the  South  Forks.  It  is 
navigable  to  the  Ouascioto  Mountains.  At  its  entrance  into  the  Ohio  it 
is  200  yards  broad.  In  its  progress  it  receives  a great  number  of  large 
creeks,  among  which  are  Shelby,  Bear,  Turtle,  Bartle’s,  Paint  and  Blane’s, 
all  of  which  run  east,  or  north-east.  Between  Sandy  and  Licking  the 
following  creeks  and  streams  enter  the  Ohio,  being  from  20  to  70  miles 
long,  and  from  50  to  12  yards  wide  at  their  mouth.  Little  Sandy  enters 
22  miles  below  Big  Sandy;  and  the  following  creeks  enter  the  Ohio  at 
moderate  distances,  not  exceeding  22,  and  not  falling  short  of  2 or  3 
miles  from  each  other;  viz : Tiger’s  Creek,  Conoconeque,  Salt  Lick  Creek, 
Sycamore,  Crooked  Creek,  Cabin  Creek,  Brook  Creek,  Lime  Stone,  and 
Bracken. 

Licking  River  rises  in  the  north-east  corner  of  the  state  almost  inter- 

o 

locking  with  the  head  waters  of  Cumberland  River.  It  seeks  the  Ohio 
by  a north-western  course;  and  meets  it  at  Newport,  opposite  Cincinnati. 
It  has  a sinuous  course  of  200  miles.  In  dry  summers  the  water  almost 
disappears  from  the  channel.  When  the  streams  are  full,  in  the  winter 
and  spring  many  flat  boats  descend  it  from  a distance  of  70  or  80  miles 
from  its  mouth.  It  waters  a rich  and  well  settled  country. 

Kentucky  is  an  important  stream,  and  gives  name  to  the  state.  It  rises 
in  the  south-east  parts  of  it,  interlocking  with  the  head  waters  of  Licking 
and  Cumberland.  By  a north-west  course,  it  finds  the  Ohio  at  Port 
William,  77  miles  above  Louisville.  It  is  150  yards  wide  at  its  mouth, 
and  navigable  150  miles.  It  has  a rapid  current,  and  high  banks.  Great 
part  of  its  length  it  flows  in  a deep  chasm,  cut  from  perpendicular  banks 
of  lime  stone.  Nothing  can  be  more  singular  than  the  sensation  arising 
from  floating  down  this  stream  and  looking  up  this  high  parapet  at  the 
sun  and  the  sky  from  this  dark  chasm.  Elkhorn,  a beautiful  stream  that 
enters  Kentucky  River  ten  miles  below  Frankfort,  has  two  forks.  The 
first  heads  near  Lexington,  and  the  second  near  Georgetown.  These 
branches  water  Scott  and  Fayette  counties,  and  are  well  calculated  for 
driving  mills  of  all  kinds.  Dick’s  River  is  a branch  of  Kentucky.  It 
has  a course  of  50  miles,  and  is  50  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  Its  current, 
like  that  of  the  parent  stream,  is  rapid;  and  its  course  confined  by  preci- 


350 


KENTUCKY. 


pices  of  lime  stone,  down  which  the  astonished  spectator  looks  often  300 
feet,  before  the  eye  catches  the  dark  stream  rolling  below.  Salt  River 
rises  in  Mercer  county  from  three  head  sources,  and  enters  the  Ohio  20 
miles  below  Louisville.  It  is  boatable  150  miles,  and  is  150  yards  wide 
at  its  mouth.  It  passes  through  Jefferson,  Greenup,  Washington,  and 
Mercer  counties. 

Green  River  rises  in  Lincoln  county.  It  enters  the  Ohio,  200  miles 
below  Louisville,  50  miles  above  the  mouth  of  Cumberland.  It  is  boat- 
able  200  miles,  and  200  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  It  receives,  in  its 
progress,  a great  number  of  tributaries,  among  which  are  Great  Barren, 
Little  Barren,  Rough  River,  and  Panther’s  Creek.  It  is  one  of  the  most 
important  rivers  in  the  state,  and  has  a great  length  of  boatable  water. 

Cumberland  river  rises  in  the  south-east  comer  of  this  state,  interlock- 
ing with  the  south  fork  of  Big  Sandy.  We  have  already  partially  described 
this  river;  but  as  it  belongs  as  much  to  this  state,  as  Tennessee,  we  add? 
that  it  runs  eighty  miles  in  this  state;  then  crosses  into  Tennessee;  runs 
forty  miles  in  that  state ; and  makes  a curve,  by  which  it  returns  into 
this  state  again.  It  once  more  enters  that  state,  after  a course  of  fifty 
miles  in  this.  It  winds  200  miles  through  Tennessee;  passes  by 
Nashville,  and  once  more  enters  this  state.  It  unites  with  the  Ohio  by 
a mouth  300  yards  in  width;  and  is  navigable  by  steam  boats  of  the  first 
class  to  Nashville;  and  by  keel  boats,  in  moderate  stages  of  the  water, 
300  miles  farther.  It  is  a broad,  deep,  and  beautiful  river,  and  uncom- 
monly favorable  to  navigation.  Trade  Water,  and  Red  River  are  its  prin- 
cipal branches,  in  Kentucky.  The  one  is  70,  and  the  other  50  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth.  The  Tennessee,  of  which  we  have  already  given  a 
description,  enters  the  Ohio  in  this  state;  and  runs  in  it  seventy-five  miles. 
Kaskinompas  River  rises  near  the  Tennessee,  and  running  a western 
course,  enters  the  Mississippi,  half  way  between  the  mouth  of  Ohio 
and  New  Madrid. 

Minerals  and  Mineral  Waters.  The  state  is  all  of  secondary 
formation.  Lime  stone  aiid  marble,  of  the  most  beautiful  species, 
abound.  Coal  appears  in  some  places,  especially  along  the  Ohio.  Iron 
ore  is  in  the  greatest  abundance;  and  is  wrought  to  a considerable  extent. 
Lead,  and  copperas,  and  aluminous  earths  are  found.  There  are  a 
number  of  salt  springs  in  the  state,  from  which  great  quantities  of  salt 
used  to  be  made.  But  salt  is  made  so  much  cheaper,  and  more  abundant- 
ly at  the  Kenhawa  works,  that  this  state  imports  chiefly  from  that  place. 

In  Cumberland  county,  in  boring  for  salt  water,  at  the  depth  of  180 
feet  a fountain  of  Petroleum,  or  what  is  there  called  mineral  oil,  was 
struck.  When  the  auger  was  withdrawn,  the  oil  was  thrown  up  in  a 
continued  stream  more  than  twelve  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  earth. 


KENTUCKY. 


351 


Although  the  quantity  somewhat  abated,  after  the  discharge  of  the  first 
few  minutes,  during  which  it  was  supposed  to  emit  75  gallons  a minute, 
it  still  continued  to  flow  in  a stream,  that  made  its  way  to  the  Cumberland, 
for  a long  distance  covering  the  surface  with  its  oily  pellicle.  It  is  so 
penetrating,  as  to  be  difficult  to  confine  in  any  wooden  vessel.  It  ignites 
freely,  produces  a flame  as  brilliant  as  gas  light,  for  which  it  might 
become  a cheap  and  abundant  substitute. 

The  Olympian  Springs,  47  miles  east  of  Lexington,  are  in  a romantic 
situation.  They  consist  of  a number  of  springs  of  different  medicinal 
qualities,  partly  sulphureous,  and  partly  chalybeate,  and  are  a place  of  great 
resort.  Big  Bone  Lick  is  20  miles  below  Cincinnati  on  the  Kentucky 
side  of  the  river,  and  not  far  from  it.  The  waters  are  impregnated  with 
sulphuretted  hydrogen  gas,  and  have  a peculiarly  favourable  effect,  in 
dropsical  cases,  and  affections  of  the  liver.  The  huge  organic  remains  of 
animals,  called  by  the  name  mammoth,  were  found  in  great  numbers  in 
digging  near  this  lick.  There  are  great  numbers  of  mineral  springs,  of 
different  qualities  in  different  parts  of  the  state.  But  the  medicinal 
spring,  which  is  far  the  most  frequented  of  any,  is  that  near  Harrodsburg. 
The  water  has  a slight  sweetish  and  styptic  taste.  It  contains  sulphate 
of  magnesia,  and  other  mineral  impregnations.  There  are  fine  accom- 
modations for  invalids.  The  situation  is  healthy  and  delightful;  and  in 
the  summer  it  has  become  a great  and  fashionable  resort  for  invalids  from 
this  and  the  neighboring  states.  The  waters  are  salutary  in  affections  of 
the  liver,  and  dyspeptic  and  chronic  complaints ; and  this  is,  probably, 
one  of  the  few  springs  where  the  waters  are  really  a salutary  and  efficient 
remedy  for  the  cases,  to  which  they  are  suited. 

Agriculture  and  Produce.  Kentucky,  from  her  first  settlement,  has 
had  the  reputation  of  being  among  the  most  fertile  of  the  western  states 
The  astonishing  productiveness  of  her  good  lands,  the  extent  of  her  cul- 
tivation, the  multitude  of  flat  boats,  which  she  loads  for  New  Orleans’ 
market,  and  the  great  quantities  of  produce,  which  she  now  sends  off  by 
steam  boats  justify  the  conclusion.  All  the  grains,  pulses  and  fruits,  of 
the  temperate  climates,  she  raises  in  the  greatest  abundance.  Her  wheat 
is  of  the  finest  kind;  and  there  is  no  part  of  the  western  country  where 
maize  is  raised  with  greater  ease  and  abundance.  Garden  vegetables  of 
all  kinds  succeed.  Grapes,  of  the  cultivated  kinds,  are  raised  for  table 
fruit,  in  many  places;  and  there  are  considerable  numbers  of  vineyards, 
where  wine  is  made.  Cotton  is  not  raised,  except  for  domestic  use. 
Hemp  and  tobacco  are  the  staples  of  the  state.  Both  are  raised  in  the 
greatest  perfection.  In  1820,  the  number  of  persons  employed  in  agri- 
culture, was  132,60  and  of  manufactures,  110,779;  and  of  persons 


352 


KENTUCKY. 


employed  in  commerce,  1,607.  The  products  of  agriculture  and  man- 
ufactures have  since  increased  nearly  in  the  ratio  of  the  increasing  popu- 
lation. 

The  present  exports  are  chiefly  to  New  Orleans;  though  a considerable 
quantity  of  produce  and  manufactures  ascends  the  Ohio  to  Pittsburgh. 
It  is  not  uncommon  for  the  growers  of  the  produce  of  this  state,  on 
arriving  at  New  Orleans,  to  ship,  on  their  own  account,  to  the  Atlantic 
States,  to  Vera  Cruz,  and  the  West  Indies.  Besides  the  articles  men- 
tioned above,  she  sends  off  immense  quantities  of  flour,  lard,  butter, 
cheese,  pork,  beef,  Indian  corn  and  meal,  whiskey,  cider,  cider  royal,  fruit, 
both  fresh  and  dried,  and  various  kinds  of  domestic  manufactures. 

Horses  are  raised  in  great  numbers,  and  of  the  noblest  kinds.  A 
handsome  horse  is  the  highest  pride  of  a Kentuckian,  and  common  farmers 
own  from  ten  to  fifty.  Great  numbers  are  carried  over  the  mountains  to 
the  Atlantic  states;  and  the  principal  supply  of  saddle  and  carriage 
horses  in  the  lower  country  is  drawn  from  Kentucky,  or  the  other 
western  states.  The  horses  are  carried  down  in  flat  boats.  Great  droves 
of  cattle  are  also  driven  from  this  state,  over  the  mountains,  to  Virginia 
and  Pennsylvania. 

In  1828  the  value  of  the  cattle,  horses,  and  swine,  driven  out  of  the 
state,  numbered  and  valued  at  one  point  of  passage,  the  Cumberland 
Ford,  was  a million  dollars.  The  returns  of  the  value  of  exports,  agri- 
cultural and  manufactured,  in  1829,  wanted  a number  of  counties  of 
comprising  the  whole  state;  but  this  partial  return  gave  2,780,000 
dollars. 

Chief  Towns.  Frankfort,  the  political  metropolis  of  the  state,  is  sit- 
uated on  the  north  bank  of  the  Kentucky,  60  miles  above  its  entrance 
into  the  Ohio.  The  environs,  of  the  beautiful  plain,  on  which  the  town 
is  built,  are  remarkable  for  their  romantic  and  splendid  scenery.  The 
river  divides  the  town  into  Frankfort  and  South  Frankfort,  \vhich  are 
connected  by  a bridge  across  the  Kentucky,  which  here  flows  between 
banks  4 or  500  feet  in  height.  Both  divisions  contain  about  2,000  in- 
habitants. The  State  House  is  entirely  of  marble,  with  a front  presenting 
a portico  supported  by  Ionic  columns,  the  whole  having  an  aspect  of 
magnificence.  It  contains  the  customary  legislative  halls,  and  apart- 
ments for  the  Court  of  Appeals,  and  the  Federal  Court.  The  stair  way 
under  the  vault  of  the  dome  has  been  much  admired.  The  penitentiary 
usually  contains  over  100  convicts,  and  is  one  of  the  few  establishments 
of  the  kind  in  the  United  States  the  income  from  which  exceeds  the  ex- 
penses. Its  other  public  buildings  are  three  churches,  an  academy,  and 
county  Court  House.  It  has  a number  of  respectable  manufacturing 


KENTUCKY. 


353 


establishments,  among  which  are  three  manufactories  of  cotton  bagging, 
a rope  walk,  a cotton  factory,  two  large  warehouses,  and  the  usual  number 
of  corresponding  establishments.  It  is  at  the  head  of  steam  boat  navi- 
gation, having  three  or  four  steam  boats  in  regular  employ,  when  the 
stage  of  water  in  the  river  admits ; and  is  a place  of  considerable  com- 
mercial enterprize.  The  public  inns  are  on  a respectable  footing ; and  it 
is  a place  of  much  show  and  gaiety.  The  houses  in  particular  are  singu- 
larly neat,  many  of  them  being  built  of  the  beautiful  marble  furnished 
by  the  banks  of  the  river.  Sea  vessels  have  been  built  here,  and  floated 
to  New  Orleans.  It  is  situated  212  miles  from  Nashville;  806  from  New 
Orleans ; 20  north-west  from  Lexington ; 149  from  Indianopolis ; 252  from 
Vandalia;  550  from  Washington;  321  from  St.  Louis;  and  85  from  Cin- 
cinnati. 

Lexington,  the  commercial  capital  of  the  state,  and  one  of  its  most 
ancient  towns,  received  its  name  from  some  hunters,  who  were  encamped 
under  the  shade  of  the  original  forest,  where  it  is  built,  and  who,  receiv- 
ing the  first  intelligence  of  Lexington  battle  in  Massachusetts,  named  the 
town  after  that,  where  commenced  the  great  struggle  of  American  inde- 
pendence. It  was  for  a long  time  the  political  metropolis  of  the  state, 
and  the  most  important  town  in  the  West. 

Transylvania  University  has  fair  claims  to  precedence  among  western 
collegiate  institutions.  Its  chief  edifice  was  burnt  two  years  since,  but 
is  now  replaced  by  a handsome  and  more  commodious  one.  It  has  twelve 
professors  and  tutors,  and  in  the  academical,  medical,  and  law  classes, 
376  students.  The  buildings  for  the  medical  department  are  large  and 
commodious;  and  its  library  contains  4,560  volumes  of  standard  works  in 
medicine.  All  the  libraries  connected  with  the  University  number  14,100 
volumes.  The  lav/  school  has  25  pupils;  and  the  medical  class  211, 
from  all  the  southern  and  western  states.  The  reputation  of  its  profes- 
sors has  given  it  a deservedly  high  standing. 

The  Rev.  Mr.  Peers  is  at  the  head  of  a school  gaining  great  reputation, 
as  being  the  only  one  known  in  the  United  States,  the  pupils  of  which 
are  professedly  guided  in  their  whole  discipline,  with  reference  to  the 
physical,  organic  and  moral  laws  of  our  being.  The  Female  Academy, 
under  the  care  of  Rev.  Mr.  Woods  is  in  high  repute,  and  has  100  pupils. 
There  are  various  other  schools  which  concur  with  these  to  vindicate  the 
high  literary  estimation  of  this  city. 

The  other  public  edifices  are  as  follows:  a handsome  and  spacious 
Court  House,  a large  Masonic  Hall,  and  eleven  churches,  in  which  all 
the  denominations  of  Christianity  are  represented.  The  State  Lunatic 
Asylum  is  a spacious  and  very  commodious  building,  containing,  on  an 
average,  90  deranged  patients,  under  the  guidance  and  efficient  care  of 

45 


354 


KENTUCKY. 


physicians,  surgeons,  and  nurses.  The  United  States  Branch  Bank  has 
a large  banking  house,  in  which  business  in  the  way  of  discount  and 
negotiation  of  bills,  is  annually  transacted  to  the  amount  of  $1,700,000. 
The  chief  manufactures  are  those  of  cotton  bagging,  and  various  kinds 
of  cordage,  particularly  bale  rope.  Of  the  former  were  manufactured  in 
1830,  1,000,000  yards;  and  of  the  latter  2,000,000  pounds.  There  are 
three  factories  for  spinning  and  weaving  wool,  and  five  or  six  for  cotton; 
and  one  large  and  several  smaller  machine-making  factories.  In  the 
woollen  factories  are  manufactured  handsome  carpets. 

The  town  buildings  in  general  are  handsome,  and  some  are  magnificent. 
Few  towns  in  the  West,  or  elsewhere,  are  more  delightfully  situated.  Its 
environs  have  a singular  softness  and  amenity  of  landscape,  and  the  town 
wears  an  air  of  neatness,  opulence,  and  repose,  indicating  leisure  and 
studiousness,  rather  than  the  bustle  of  business  and  commerce.  It  is 
situated  in  the  centre  of  a proverbially  rich  and  beautiful  country.  The 
frequency  of  handsome  villas  and  ornamented  rural  mansions,  impart  the 
impression  of  vicinity  to  an  opulent  metropolis.  A beautiful  branch  of 
the  Elkhorn  runs  through  the  city,  and  supplies  it  with  water.  The  main 
street  is  a mile  and  a quarter  in  length,  and  80  feet  wide;  well  paved, 
and  the  principal  roads  leading  from  it  to  the  country  are  McAdamized 
to  some  distance.  In  the  centre  of  the  town  is  the  public  square,  sur- 
rounded by  handsome  buildings.  In  this  square  is  the  market  house, 
which  is  amply  supplied  with  all  the  products  of  the  state.  The  inhabit- 
ants  are  cheerful,  intelligent,  conversable,  and  noted  for  their  hospitality 
to  strangers.  The  professional  men  are  distinguished  for  their  attain- 
ments in  their  several  walks,  and  many  distinguished  and  eminent  men 
have  had  their  origin  here.  The  University  with  its  professors  and  stu- 
dents, and  the  numerous  distinguished  strangers  that  are  visiting  here, 
during  the  summer  months,  add  to  the  attractions  of  the  city.  The  people 
are  addicted  to  giving  parties ; and  the  tone  of  society  is  fashionable  and 
pleasant.  Strangers,  in  general,  are  much  pleased  with  a temporary 
sojourn  in  this  city,  which  conveys  high  ideas  of  the  refinement  and  taste 
of  the  country.  There  are  now  much  larger  towns  in  the  West;  but 
none  presenting  more  beauty  and  intelligence.  The  stranger,  on  finding 
himself  in  the  midst  of  its  polished  and  interesting  society,  cannot  but  be 
carried  back  by  the  strong  contrast  to  the  time,  when  the  patriarchial 
hunters  of  Kentucky,  reclining  on  their  buffaloe  robes  around  their  even- 
ing fires,  canopied  by  the  lofty  trees  and  the  stars,  gave  it  the  name  it 
bears,  by  patriotic  acclamation. 

The  number  of  inhabitants  is  6,104.  It  is  situated  25  miles  south-east 
of  Frankfort;  257  north-east  from  Nashville;  80  south  from  Cincinnati : 
and  526  south-west  from  Washington. 


KENTUCKY. 


355 


Louisville,  at  the  falls  of  the  Ohio,  in  a commercial  point  of  view,  is 
far  the  most  important  town  in  the  state.  The  main  street  is  nearly  a mile 
in  length,  and  is  as  noble,  as  compact,  and  has  as  much  the  air  of  a maratime 
town,  as  any  street  in  the  western  country.  It  is  situated  on  an  extensive 
sloping  plain,  below  the  mouth  of  Beargrass,  about  a quarter  of  a mile 
above  the  principal  declivity  of  the  falls.  The  three  principal  streets  run 
parallel  with  the  river,  and  command  fine  views  of  the  villages  and  the 
beautiful  country  on  the  opposite  shore. 

The  public  buildings  are  a court  house,  jail,  poor  house,  and  work 
house,  powder  magazine,  marine  hospital,  city  school  house,  eight  churches 
for  the  prevalent  denominations  of  the  country,  Washington  Hall,  Co- 
lumbian inn,  and  other  respectable  hotels,  City  Hall,  United  States  Branch 
Bank,  house  of  Fire  and  Marine  Insurance  Company,  Iron  Foundry, 
Jefferson  Cotton  Factory,  five  Steam  Mills,  Union  Hall,  and  Theatre. 

The  Marine  Hospital  is  a conspicuous  and  showy  building.  The  free 
Public  School  House  is  a noble  edifice,  taking  into  view  its  object.  It 
was  commenced  in  1829,  as  a kind  of  model  school  for  a general  system 
of  Free  Schools;  and  was  built  at  an  expense  of  7,500  dollars.  It  is 
intended  to  accommodate  7 or  800  pupils. 

The  position  of  this  city  is  38p  18'  N.  and  5°  42'  W.  from  Washington. 
It  contained  in  1800, 600  inhabitants;  1810,1,350;  1820,4,012;  1830, 
10,336,  having  more  than  doubled  its  population  within  the  last  10  years. 

The  greatest  fall  in  the  Ohio  is  just  below  this  city.  In  high  stages  of 
water,  the  rocks  and  shallows  are  all  covered,  and  boats  pass  without  per- 
ceiving them.  But  this  stage  of  water  does  not  occur,  on  an  average, 
more  than  two  months  in  a year,  rendering  it  necessary  at  all  other  times, 
that  boats  from  the  lower  country  should  stop  here.  The  falls  equally 
arrested  boats  from  above.  Consequently  freights  intended  for  the  coun- 
try above  were  required,  at  a great  expense  of  time,  delay  and  factorage, 
to  be  unloaded,  transported  by  land  round  the  falls,  and  reloaded  in  boats 
above.  Large  steam  boats  from  New  Orleans,  though  belonging  to  the 
upper  country,  were  obliged  to  lie  by  through  the  summer  at  Portland. 

To  remedy  these  inconveniencies,  the  Louisville  and  Portland  Canal 
round  the  falls  has  been  completed.  It  overcomes  the  ascent  of  22  feet 
by  five  locks.  The  first  steam  boat  that  passed  through  the  canal,  was 
the  Uncas,  Dec.  21,  1829. 

It  is  two  miles  in  length,  and  the  excavation  40  feet  in  depth.  A part 
of  this  depth  is  cut  from  solid  lime  stone.  It  is  on  a scale  to  admit  steam 
boats  and  vessels  of  the  largest  size.  From  the  nature  of  the  country, 
and  the  great  difference  between  the  highest  and  lowest  stage  of  the 
water,  amounting  to  nearly  60  feet,  it  is  necessarily  a work  of  great 
magnitude,  having  cost  more  than  any  other  similar  extent  of  canal  work 


356 


KENTUCKY, 


in  the  United  States.  There  are  various  opinions,  in  reference  to  the 
bearing  of  this  work  upon  the  future  prosperity  of  Louisville.  Great 
part  of  the  important  and  lucrative  business  of  factorage  will  be  superseded  ; 
and  as  boats  can  ascend  from  Louisville  to  Cincinnati,  with  at  least  as 
great  a draft  of  water  as  is  allowed  by  the  depth  of  the  water  from 
Louisville  to  the  mouth  of  the  Ohio,  most  of  the  boats  from  the  Missis- 
sippi, that  used  to  be  arrested  at  the  falls,  will  pass  on  to  the  country 
above.  But  other  bearings  of  utility  to  this  place,  not  yet  contemplated, 
will  probably  grow  out  of  the  increased  activity,  given  by  the  canal  to 
business  and  commerce.  No  axiom  is  better  established  than  that  every 
part  of  the  country,  so  connected  as  the  whole  coast  of  Ohio,  flourishes 
and  increases  with  the  growth  of  every  other  part.  If  the  country  above 
and  below,  be  flourishing,  so  also  will  be  Louisville.  Besides,  this  im- 
portant town  has  intrinsic  resources,  which  will  not  fail  to  make  it  a great 
place.  More  steam  boats  are  up  in  New  Orleans  for  it  than  any  other; 
and  except  during  the  season  of  ice,  or  of  extremely  low  water,  there  sel- 
dom elapses  a week,  without  an  arrival  from  New  Orleans.  The  gun  of 
the  arriving  or  departing  steam  boats  is  heard  at  every  hour  of  the  day 
and  the  night ; and  no  person  has  an  adequate  idea  of  the  business  and 
bustle  of  Louisville,  until  he  has  arrived  at  the  town.  The  country  of 
which  this  town  is  the  county  seat,  is  one  of  the  most  fertile,  and  best 
settled  in  the  state.  The  town  was  formerly  subject  to  frequent  attacks 
of  endemic  sickness,  in  the  summer  and  autumn,  owing  to  stagnant 
waters  in  its  vicinity.  The  ponds  and  marshes  have  been  in  a great 
measure  drained ; and  the  health  of  the  town  has  improved  in  conse- 
quence. It  has  been  for  some  years  nearly  as  healthy  as  any  other  town 
in  the  same  latitude  on  the  Ohio. 

It  is  52  miles  north  of  Frankfort;  150  south-west  by  water,  and  140 
by  the  mail  route  from  Cincinnati;  51  west  from  Lexington ; and  662 
west  from  Washington. 

Maysville,  the  next  town  in  Kentucky,  in  point  of  commercial  import- 
ance, to  Louisville,  is  situated  just  below  the  mouth  of  Lime  Stone 
Creek,  275  miles  by  land,  and  500  by  water,  below  Pittsburgh.  It  has  a 
fine  harbor  for  boats,  and  is  situated  on  a narrow  bottom  on  the  verge  of  a 
chain  of  high  hills.  There  are  three  streets  running  parallel  with 
the  river ; and  four  streets  crossing  them  at  right  angles.  The  houses 
are  about  500  in  number;  and  the  inhabitants  about  4,000.  This  place 
has  the  usual  number  of  stores  and  manufactories.  Glass  and  some  other 
articles  are  manufactured  to  a considerable  extent.  It  has  a market  house, 
court  house,  three  houses  for  public  worship,  and  some  other  public 
buildings.  What  has  given  particular  importance  to  Maysville,  is  its 
being  the  principal  place  of  importation  for  the  north-east  part  of  the  state. 


KENTUCKY. 


357 


The  greater  part  of  the  goods  for  Kentucky  from  Philadelphia  and  the 
eastern  cities,  are  landed  here,  and  distributed  hence  over  the  state.  It 
is  a thriving,  active  town,  and  a number  of  steam  boats  have  been  built 
here. 

Washington,  three  miles  south  of  this  place,  is  a considerable  village, 
in  the  centre  of  a fertile  and  well  peopled  country.  It  has  three  par- 
allel streets,  two  houses  for  public  worship,  a court  house,  jail,  two  semi- 
naries of  learning  a post  and  printing  office,  the  customary  stores  and 
mechanic  shops,  and  a branch  of  the  Kentucky  bank. 

Paris,  the  chief  town  of  Bourbon  county,  is  situated  on  a fine  hill,  on 
Stoner  fork  of  Licking  river,  at  the  mouth  of  Houston  creek.  There 
are  a number  of  important  manufactures  here.  Some  of  the  houses  have 
the  appearance  of  magnificence.  It  is  central  to  a delightful  and  populous 
country,  and  is  entirely  an  interior  town,  twenty  miles  east  of  Lexington, 
60  miles  south-east  of  Newport,  opposite  Cincinnati,  and  in  north  latitude 
38°  18'.  The  scenery  of  no  place  in  the  western  country  surpasses  that 
on  the  road  between  this  place  and  Lexington. 

Georgetown,  the  county  town  of  Scott  county,  is  surrounded  by  that 
fine  and  rich  country  in  the  centre  of  this  state,  of  which  travellers  have 
spoken  in  terms  of  so  much  praise.  Royal  spring,  a branch  of  Elkhorn, 
runs  through  the  town.  It  has  a number  of  considerable  manufacturing 
establishments,  genteel  houses,  and  some  public  buildings,  among  them 
a church,  printing  office,  post  office,  and  rope  walk.  It  is  fourteen  miles 
north  of  Lexington,  on  the  road  to  Cincinnati. 

Harrodsburg  is  a pretty  village  on  both  sides  of  Salt  River,  which  turns 
a number  of  miles.  It  contains  ninety  houses,  with  the  customary  stores, 
a church  and  post  office.  Danville,  thirty-three  miles  south-west  from 
Lexington,  is  an  important  village,  containing  between  2 and  300  houses, 
and  all  the  usual  appendages  of  a town  of  that  size.  Stamford,  10  miles 
south-east  from  Danville,  contains  120  houses.  Somerset,  twelve  miles 
south-east  of  Stamford,  contains  nearly  100  houses.  Monticello,  be- 
tween Cumberland  River  and  the  state  of  Tennessee,  situated  on  a ridge 
of  hills,  contains  something  more  than  sixty  houses ; and  is  in  the  vicinity 
of  the  noted  nitre  caves.  Lead  ore  has  been  found  in  its  vicinity. 

Versailles,  the  chief  town  of  Woodford  county,  contains  over  100  houses, 
and  is  situated  on  a creek,  which  discharges  into  the  Kentucky  River. 
It  is  thirteen  miles  south-west  from  Lexington,  and  surrounded  by  the 
same  beautiful  country,  which  is  adjacent  to  that  place.  Shelbyville,  on 
Brasheare’s  creek,  twelve  miles  above  its  junction  with  Salt  River,  is  a 
considerable  village.  Augusta,  twenty-four  miles  below  Maysville  on 
the  Ohio,  has  80  houses,  and  900  inhabitants.  Augusta  College  is  a 
seminary  of  rising  importance,  under  the  care  of  the  Methodist  Church. 


358 


KENTUCKY. 


The  college  buildings  consist  of  one  spacious  edifice,  80  feet  by  40,  and 
two  boarding  houses.  It  has  an  average  of  137  students.  The  village  is 
pleasant  and  uncommonly  healthy.  The  president  has  deserved  reputa- 
tion, and  this  institution  promises  great  utility  to  the  community. 

Newport,  opposite  to  Cincinnati,  is  the  county  town  for  Campbell 
county,  and  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Licking.  It  has  a charming 
prospect  of  Cincinnati,  and  the  surrounding  country,  and  from  that 
town,  seems  a pleasure  ground  dotted  with  houses.  Few  places  can  show- 
more  pleasing  scenery.  It  has  a spacious  arsenal,  containing  arms,  and 
munitions  of  war  for  the  United  States,  and  some  other  public  buildings, 
jail,  market  house,  post  office,  school  house,  and  an  academy.  Bagging, 
cordage,  and  tobacco  are  manufactured  here. 

Covington,  situated  below  Newport,  and  on  the  opposite  side  of 
Licking,  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity.  The  streets  are  intended  to 
be  continuations  of  those  of  Cincinnati.  Liberal  donations  are  made 
for  the  erection  of  public  buildings.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  beauty  of  a 
panoramic  view  of  these  towns,  from  the  hills  north  of  Cincinnati.  The 
Ohio,  in  the  distance,  seems  but  a rivulet,  and  these  towns  are  so  con- 
nected by  the  eye,  as  to  seem  to  make  a part  of  Cincinnati.  These 
places  of  course  are  connected  with  Cincinnati  in  business;  and  only 
want  a bridge  across  the  Ohio,  or  a tunnel  under  it,  actually  to  make  a 
part  of  Cincinnati.  In  this  place  are  respectable  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments, particularly  of  cotton. 

Cynthiana,  the  county  town  for  Harrison  county,  stands  on  the  north- 
east bank  of  the  south  fork  of  Licking,  twenty-six  miles  north-east  from 
Lexington,  and  thirty-four  in  the  same  direction  from  Frankfort.  It  con- 
tains more  than  100  houses;  and  a number  of  respectable  public  buildings. 
It  is  on  a wide  and  fertile  bottom,  in  the  midst  of  a rich  and  populous 
settlement.  There  are  a great  number  of  water  mills  near  the  town. 

Port  William  the  county  town  of  Gallatin  county,  stands  on  the  right 
shore  of  the  Kentucky,  a little  above  its  entrance  into  the  Ohio,  It 
contains  sixty  or  seventy  houses.  But  although  its  position  is  fine,  at 
the  outlet  of  this  noble  river,  and  adjacent  to  a charming  country,  it  has 
not  flourished  according  to  the  expectations  of  its  inhabitants.  This  may 
be  owing  to  the  circumstance,  that  the  Delta  on  which  it  is  situated,  has 
been  sometimes  inundated. 

Russellville,  the  county  town  of  Logan  county,  is  an  interior  town, 
intermediate  between  Green  and  Cumberland  Rivers ; and  thirty-five  miles 
distant  from  each.  It  contains  a seminary,  denominated  a college;  and  a 
number  of  respectable  public  buildings,  together  with  160  private  houses. 
It  is  180  miles  south-west  from  Frankfort,  and  thirty-five  south  of 
Louisville.  It.  is  in  the  vicinity  of  the  extensive  prairies  and  barrens. 


KENTUCKY. 


359 


that  appear  in  this  part  of  the  country.  Salt  licks  abound  near  the  town. 
Many  of  the  adjacent  prairies  are  of  great  beauty. 

There  are  forty  or  fifty  more  considerable  villages  in  this  state,  all 
indicated  in  the  tabular  view  of  the  county  towns  of  this  state.  It  would 
be  but  tiresome  repetition  to  describe  them  with  any  degree  of  particularity. 
The  names  of  the  principal  ones  follow,  together  with  the  rivers  on  which 
they  are  situated.  Catletsburg,  at  the  outlet  of  Big  Sandy.  Clarksburg, 
on  the  Ohio,  forty-eight  miles  below  Catletsburg.  Yellow  Banks, 
Henderson,  Morganfield,  and  Smithland,  are  on  the  Ohio,  below  Louis- 
ville. The  last  named  town  is  at  the  mouth  of  Cumberland  River. 
Columbia  is  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  eleven  miles  below  the 
mouth  of  the  Ohio.  Prestonburg  is  on  the  west  branch  of  Big  Sandy, 
near  the  Cumberland  mountains.  The  following  towns  are  on  Licking: 
Olympian  Springs,  Mount  Sterling,  Millersburg,  Marysville,  and  Fal- 
mouth. On  the  Kentucky  and  its  waters,  besides  those  already  enumerated, 
are  Mount  Vernon,  Stamford,  Lancaster,  Richmond,  Winchester, 
Nicholasville,  Harrodsburg  and  Laurensburg.  On  Salt  River  and  its 
waters,  are  Springfield,  Bealsburg,  Shelbyville,  Middletown,  and  Shep- 
herds ville.  Bardstown  is  an  important  village,  with  a beautiful  view  of 
adjacent  hills,  and  mountains.  On  Green  River  and  its  waters,  are 
Casey  ville,  Columbia,  Greensburg,  Summersville,  Monroe,  Glasgow, 
Scottsville,  Bowling  Green,  Morgantown,  Litchfield  Hardensburg, 
Hartford,  Greenville,  and  Madisonville.  On  Cumberland  River,  Bar- 
boursville,  Burkville,  Hopkinsville,  Princeton,  and  Centreville.  Some  of 
these  villages  have  churches.  Some  of  them  are  county  towns ; and  in  a 
country,  where  the  whole  scene  is  shifting  under  the  eye  of  the  beholder ; 
some  of  them,  no  doubt,  are  more  important,  than  some  of  those,  which 
we  have  particularly  noticed  in  description.  Other  villages  may  have 
become  important,  that  have  not  yet  been  described;  and  there  are 
villages  deemed  of  consequence,  at  least,  in  their  immediate  vicinity, 
which  are  not  here  named. 

Education.  Beside  the  collegiate  institutions  already  mentioned,  there 
is  Georgetown  College,  a Baptist  Seminary  recently  commenced  at 
Georgetown,  and  Cumberland  College  at  Princetown.  This  is  an  insti- 
tution for  the  Cumberland  Presbyterians;  the  students,  on  an  average, 
are  120.  It  is  respectable  for  its  library  and  endowments,  and  adopts  the 
manual  labor  system.  Centre  College  at  Danville,  is  under  the  care  of 
the  Presbyterian  church.  Its  buildings  and  endowments,  are  already 
ample,  and  are  increasing.  It  promises  to  become  an  important  institution. 

In  the  pleasant  village  of  Bardstown,  is  a highly  respectable  Catholic 
Seminary,  being  the  most  important  one  which  that  church  possesses  in 
the  western  country.  One  object  of  this  institution  is  to  have  theological 


360 


KENTUCKY. 


students  for  the  Catholic  ministry.  In  the  college  and  theological  school 
are  230  students.  A number  of  persons  of  both  sexes,  and  the  different 
religious  orders  of  that  church,  reside  here,  and  are  devoted  to  teaching 
and  acts  of  charity. 

There  are  other  seminaries,  the  names  and  positions  of  which  we  have 
not  been  able  to  obtain.  But  we  give  instead  a most  important  document, 
touching  the  state  of  general  education  in  Kentucky.  We  regret  that  it 
is  the  only  one  furnished  by  the  census  of  1830,  of  sufficient  accuracy 
and  universality  to  qualify  it  for  admission  to  this  work.  It  may  stand  in 
some  degree,  as  a sample  of  the  condition  of  general  education  in  the 
states,  where  free  schools  are  not  yet  adopted.  The  system  has  one 
obvious  advantage  over  that  of  New  England.  The  teachers,  for  the  most 
part,  are  trained  to  their  profession,  and  consider  it  not  an  incidental  but 
a perpetual  pursuit.  They  acquire  an  experience,  talent  of  government, 
and  power  of  self  possession,  which  cannot  be  expected  from  those  who 
adopt  the  profession  only  as  an  expedient,  and  for  a season.  It  differs  in 
another  respect  from  that  of  New-England.  There  the  greater  number 


of  pupils  attend  school  in  winter;  and  here  in  the  summer. 


Name  of  County. 

Number 

of 

Schools. 

Children 

at 

School. 

No.  in  co 
between 
5 and  15 

Number 
not  at 
School. 

Average 
size  of 
Schools. 

Population  of 
County. 

Adair, 

13 

292 

1820 

1528 

22 

Allen, 

12 

286 

1642 

1356 

24 

Anderson, 

9 

302 

946 

644 

38 

Barren, 

24 

644 

3222 

2578 

27 

Bath, 

15 

453 

2002 

1549 

30 

Boone, 

19 

599 

1955 

1356 

31 

Bourbon, 

48 

1246 

3019 

1773 

26 

Bracken, 

Brackenridge, 

Bullitt, 

12 

325 

1587 

1262 

27 

16 

400 

1715 

1315 

25 

Butler, 

Calloway, 

7 

158 

768 

610 

22 

11 

245 

1382 

1137 

22 

Campbell, 

17 

453 

2616 

2165 

21 

Casey, 

6 

126 

1154 

1023 

21 

Caldwell, 

16 

453 

1833 

1380 

28 

Christian, 

20 

624 

2334 

1710 

31 

Clarke, 

21 

810 

2423 

1613 

40 

Clay, 

3 

51 

959 

908 

17 

Cumberland, 

9 

241 

2005 

1764 

27 

Daviess, 

9 

229 

1069 

840 

25 

Edmondson, 

Estill, 

Fayette,* 

2 

62 

727 

665 

31 

*39 

1122 

2925 

1803 

29 

Fleming, 

28 

870 

3870 

3000 

31 

Floyd, 

6 

151 

1307 

1156 

25 

Franklin, 

* Out  of  Lexington. 

16 

485 

1629 

1144 

30 

KENTUCKY, 


361 


Name  of  County. 

Number 

Children 

No. in  co 

Number 

Average 

Population  of  each 

of 

at 

between 

not  at 

size  of 

County. 

Schools. 

School, 

5 and  15 

School. 

Schools. 

Gallatin, 

14 

: 394 

: 1618 

l 122  4 

: 28 

Garrard, 

20 

i 459 

1 2301 

1842 

! 23 

Grant, 

9 

i 296 

; 816 

; 520 

' 33 

Graves, 

4 

102 

645 

543 

: 25 

Grayson, 

8 

! 252 

1080 

828 

i 31 

Greene, 

14 

: 329 

2358 

2529 

23 

Greenup, 

9 

> 270 

1541 

1271 

30 

Hancock, 

3 

: 86 

327 

' 241 

29 

Hardin, 

23 

693 

3234 

2541 

30 

Harlan, 

3 

64 

841 

777 

21 

Harrison, 

24 

835 

3000 

2165 

34 

Hart, 

6 

155 

1372 

1217 

26 

Henderson, 

12 

243 

1153 

910 

20 

Henry, 

53 

606 

2521 

1 1915 

26 

Hickman, 

5 

127 

1269 

1142 

25 

Hopkins, 

13 

260 

1587 

1327 

20 

Jefferson, 

Jessamine, 

IS 

520 

1789 

1269 

29 

Kngx, 

4 

113 

1104 

991 

28 

Laurel, 

2 

41 

582 

541 

20 

Lawrence, 

9 

179 

1124 

945 

19 

Lewis, 

9 

242 

1365 

1123 

27 

Lincoln, 

24 

537 

2028 

1491 

22 

Livingston, 

Logan, 

16 

390 

2331 

1941 

23 

Mason, 

39 

1180 

3080 

1900 

30 

Madison, 

33 

1054 

3446 

2392 

32 

Mercer, 

Meade, 

8 

226 

896 

640 

32 

McCracken, 

39 

1043 

3441 

2398 

28 

Monroe, 

7 

252 

1483 

1231 

36 

Montgomery, 

15 

551 

2146 

1595 

36 

Morgan, 

00 

000 

893 

893 

Muhienburgh, 

12 

258 

1248 

990 

21 

Nelson, 

23 

807 

2873 

2066 

85 

Nicholas, 

16 

612 

2180 

1568 

38 

Ohio, 

7 

168 

1121 

953 

24 

Oldham, 

17 

446 

1984 

1538 

26 

Owen, 

12 

299 

1468 

1169 

25 

Pendleton, 

8 

318 

1026 

708 

39 

Perry, 

3 

52 

992 

940 

17 

Pike, 

3 

53 

785 

732 

17 

Pulaski, 

23 

589 

2438 

1879 

25 

Rockcastle, 

7 

145 

784 

639 

21 

Russell, 

1 

28 

926 

898 

28 

Scott, 

18 

690 

2525 

1835 

38 

Shelby, 

43 

1125 

3704 

2579 

26 

Simpson, 

12 

393 

1418 

1025 

33 

Spencer, 

12 

282 

1544 

1262 

23 

46 


362 


KENTUCKY. 


Name  of  County. 

Number 

of 

Schools. 

Children 

at 

School. 

No. in  co. 
between 
5 and  15 

Number 
not  at 
School. 

Average 
size  of 
Schools. 

Population  oif  each 
County. 

Todd, 

16 

363 

1471 

1108 

22 

Trigg, 

13 

318 

1294 

976 

24 

Union, 

8 

252 

923 

691 

31 

Warren, 

13 

405 

2291 

1886 

31 

Washington, 

34 

907 

4119 

3212 

26 

W ayne, 

9 

307 

2350 

2043 

34 

Whitely, 

7 

195 

1086 

891 

28 

Woodford, 

23 

666 

1812 

1146 

29 

Total,  11311  31834|  1391421 107328, 


Name  of  County. 

| 

Am’t.  now 
paid  for 
education. 

Average 
price  of 
tuition. 

Cost  of  educa-  i 
ting  all  at 
this  rate. 

Average  in. 

come  of  s 
Teachers. 

Pay  of  Teachers^ 
upposing  40  pupil 
to  a School. 

Adair, 

2259 

$7  75cts. 

$14105 

$173 

$310 

Allen, 

2178 

7 50 

10170 

181 

300 

Anderson, 

2480 

8 20 

7757 

275 

328 

Barren, 

5608 

8 40 

27064 

275 

336 

Bath, 

3281 

7 25 

44514 

219 

290 

Boone, 

5136 

8 57 

16754 

270 

342 

Bourbon, 

12134 

9 73 

29377 

253 

389 

Bracken. 

2360 

7 25 

11505 

197 

290 

Brackenridge, 

Bullitt, 

3452 

8 63 

14800 

216 

345 

Butler, 

1289 

8 15 

6259 

184 

326 

Calloway, 

2084 

8 51 

11760 

190 

340 

Campbell, 

3188 

7 03 

18390 

187 

281 

Casey, 

872 

6 92 

7985 

145 

276 

Caldwell, 

4276 

9 46 

17330 

267 

378 

Christian, 

6093 

9 76 

22779 

304 

390 

Clarke, 

6383 

7 88 

19093 

304 

315 

Clay, 

540 

10  59 

10155 

120 

423 

Cumberland, 

2044 

8 48 

17002 

227 

339 

Daviess , 

2140 

9 34 

9984 

238 

373 

Edmondson, 

Estill, 

744 

12  00 

8724 

372 

480 

Fayette, 

11467 

10  22 

29893 

300 

408 

Fleming, 

6192 

7 12 

27554 

221 

284 

Floyd, 

1208 

8 00 

10456 

201 

320 

Franklin, 

Gallatin, 

4632 

9 56 

15573 

289 

382 

3167 

8 03 

12992 

226 

321 

Garrard, 

3945 

8 59 

19765 

197 

353 

Grant, 

2105 

7 11 

5801 

234 

284 

Graves, 

Grayson, 

1020 

10  00 

6450 

255 

400 

2140 

8 49 

9169 

267 

339 

Greene, 

3314 

10  07 

28780 

237 

402 

Greenup, 

2418 

8 95 

13791 

268 

352 

Hancock, 

814 

9 48 

3093 

271 

378 

Hardin, 

6372 

9 19 

29720 

277 

367 

KENTUCKY, 


363 


Name  of  County. 

Ain’t,  now 
paid  for 
education. 

Average 
price  of 
tuition. 

Cost  of  educat- 
ing all  at  this 
rate. 

Average 
income  of 
Teachers. 

Pay  of  Teachers, 
supposing  40  pupils 
to  a School. 

Harlan, 

$642 

$10  OSes 

$8435 

$214 

$401 

Harrison, 

7373 

8 82 

26460 

307 

352 

Hart, 

1381 

8 90 

12210 

230 

356 

Henderson, 

2896 

11  09 

12786 

241 

443 

Henry, 

4557 

7 51 

18932 

198 

300 

Hickman, 

1112 

8 75 

11103 

222 

350 

Hopkins, 

Jefferson, 

2240 

8 62 

13679 

172 

344 

Jessamine, 

4416 

8 49 

15188 

452 

339 

Knox, 

1038 

9 18 

10134 

259 

367 

Laurel, 

328 

8 00 

4656, 

164 

320 

Lawrence, 

1346 

7 52 

8452 

149 

300 

Lewis, 

1686 

6 97 

9515 

187 

278 

Lincoln, 

Livingston, 

4896 

9 11 

18475 

203 

364 

Logan, 

5046 

12  91 

30093 

315 

516 

Mason, 

11089 

9 57 

29475 

284 

382 

Madison, 

McCracken, 

8197 

7 77 

% 

26775 

248 

310 

Meade, 

1984 

7 75 

6944 

248 

310 

Mercer, 

9737 

9 33 

32104 

250 

: 373 

Monroe, 

1976 

7 84 

11626 

282 1 

313 

Montgomery, 

Morgan, 

4251 

7 71 

16545 

283 

308 

Muhlenburgh, 

1900 

7 36 

9185 

156 

294 

Nelson, 

8320 

10  31 

29610 

362 

412 

Nicholas, 

4435 

.7  26 

15826 

277 

290 

Ohio, 

1485 

8 84 

9909 

212 

353 

Oldham, 

3689 

8 27 

16407 

217 

I 330 

Owen, 

2108 

7 05 

10348 

175 

282 

Pendleton, 

2379 

7 48 

7674 

297 

299 

Perry, 

498 

9 58 

9503 

162 

383 

Pike, 

464 

8 75 

6868 

155 

350 

Pulaski, 

4038 

6 74 

16432 

175 

269 

Rock  Castle, 

1200 

8 28 

6491 

177 

331 

Russell, 

224 

8 00 

7408 

224 

320 

Scott, 

7288 

10  56 

26664 

404 

422 

Shelby, 

8852 

7 86 

29113 

206 

314 

Simpson, 

3613 

9 19 

13031 

301 

367 

Spencer, 

2176 

7 71 

11904 

181 

308 

Todd, 

3724 

10  25 

15077 

233 

410 

Trigg, 

3053 

9 81 

12694 

228 

392 

Union, 

2470 

9 80 

9045 

308 

392 

Warren, 

3112 

7 68 

17594 

239 

307 

Washington, 

8551 

9 42 

38800 

251 

376 

Wayne, 

2650 

8 63 

20380 

294 

345 

Whitely, 

1433 

7 35 

7882 

204 

294 

Woodford, 

7378 

11  08 

20036 

321 

443 

Total,  278592  1200052 


364 


KENTUCKY. 


Curiosities , | fyc.  Among  the  antiquities  of  this  state  are  great  numbers 
of  those  Indian  mounds,  that  are  found  over  all  the  western  country. 
When  this  country  was  first  discovered,  great  numbers  of  human  bodies 
in  a state  of  entire  preservation  were  found  in  a cave  near  Lexington.  The 
pioneers  of  the  settlements  in  this  country  did  not  attach  much  conse- 
quence to  skeletons ; and  none  of  them  remain.  The  bodies  that  were  found 
inthe  Saltpetre  cave,  have  been  examined  by  thousands.  They  were 
considerably  smaller  than  the  men  of  our  times.  The  teeth  and  nails  did 
not  seem  to  intimate  the  shrinking  of  the  flesh  from  them,  in  the  desic- 
cating process,  by  which  they  had  been  preserved.  The  teeth  were 
separated  by  considerable  intervals ; and  were  long,  white,  and  sharp. 

In  an  ancient  mound  on  Caney  Fork  of  Cumberland  River,  four  feet 
below  the  surface,  a vessel  was  found,  of  which  it  would  be  difficult  to 
convey  an  adequate  idea,  without  an  engraving.  It  consisted  of  three 
heads,  joined  together  at  the  back  part  of  them  near  the  top,  by  a stem,  or 
handle,  which  rises  above  the  heads  about  three  inches.  The  stem  is 
hollow,  six  inches  in  circumference  at  the  top,  increasing  in  size,  as  it 
descends.  These  heads  are  all  of  the  same  dimensions,  being  about  four 
inches  from  the  apex  to  the  chin.  The  face  at  the  eyes  is  three  inches 
broad,  decreasing  in  breadth  all  the  way  to  the  chin.  Most  persons  have 
supposed,  that  they  are  fac  similes  of  thp  Tartar  countenance.  They  do 
not  so  strike  us.  Neither  does  their  model  appear  to  have  been  any  thing 
like  the  present  Indian  countenance.  The  faces  are  remarkable  for  their 
fullness,  and  evince  no  inconsiderable  skill  in  the  moulder.  It  is  of  the 
common  earthen  fabric,  of  the  pottery  generally  found  about  the  mounds. 

In  another  mound,  within  twenty  miles  of  Lexington,  were  found  nine 
very  large  and  beautiful  marine  shells  of  the  murex  class,  and  perfectly 
similar  in  their  general  contour  to  those,  called  conch  shells.  They  have 
all  the  freshness  of  those  found  on  the  shores  of  the  sea.  This  state,  like 
Tennessee,  abounds  in  lime  stone  caves,  of  an  extent  and  grandeur,  to 
which  the  famous  cave  at  Antiparos  will  hold  no  comparison. 

There  are  numberless  caves,  sinks  and  precipices,  that  in  any  other 
country  would  be  regarded,  as  curiosities.  They  are  sources  of  wealth 
in  many  instances  to  their  proprietors.  No  earth,  in  any  country  has 
been  found  more  strongly  impregnated  with  nitre.  It  is  affirmed,  that  fifty 
pounds  of  crude  nitre  have  been  extracted  from  an  hundred  pounds  of  the 
earth.  Luring  the  late  war,  400,000  pounds  a year  were  manufactured 
from  this  earth  in  this  state ; and  probably  as  great  an  amount  of  gun 
powder.  We  have  already  mentioned,  as  striking  curiosities,  the  prodigious 
depths,  in  which  many  of  the  rivers  in  this  state  run,  which  are  worn 
through  strata  of  solid  lime  stone.  The  caves,  the  sink  holes,  the  gulfs, 
and  the  deeply  excavated  beds  of  the  rivers,  afford  a continual  source  of 


KENTUCKY. 


305 


curiosity  and  astonishment  to  travellers,  who  are  not  thoroughly  used  to 
this  country. 

Character , Manners , £$c.  The  people  of  this  state  have  a character 
as  strongly  marked  by  nationality,  as  those  of  any  state  of  the  union.  It 
is  a character  extremely  difficult  to  describe,  although  all  the  shades  of 
it  are  strongly  marked  to  the  eye  of  a person,  who  has  been  long  acquainted 
with  them.  They  are  not  only  unique  in  their  manners,  but  in  their 
origin.  They  are  scions  from  a noble  stock,  the  descendants  from  affluent 
and  respectable  planters  from  Virginia  and  North  Carolina.  They  are  in 
that  condition  in  life,  which  is,  perhaps,  best  calculated  to  develope  high 
mindedness  and  self  respect.  They  have  a distinct  and  striking  moral 
physiognomy,  an  enthusiasm,  a vivacity  and  ardor  of  character,  courage, 
frankness  and  generosity,  that  have  been  developed  with  the  peculiar 
circumstances,  under  which  they  have  been  placed.  They  have  a delight- 
ful frankness  of  hospitality,  which  renders  a sojourn  among  them 
exceedingly  pleasant  to  a stranger.  Their  language,  the  very  amusing 
dialect  of  the  common  people,  their  opinions  and  modes  of  thinking,  from 
various  circumstances,  have  been  very  extensively  communicated,  and 
impressed  upon  the  general  character  of  the  people  of  the  West.  Their 
bravery  has  been  evinced  in  field  and  forest  from  Louisiana  to  Canada. 
Their  enthusiasm  of  character  is  very  observable,  in  the  ardor  with  which 
all  classes  of  people  express  themselves,  in  reference  to  their  favorite 
views  and  opinions.  All  their  feelings  tend  to  extremes.  It  is  not  alto- 
gether in  burlesque,  that  they  are  described  as  boastful,  and  accustomed 
to  assume  to  themselves  the  pride  of  having  the  best  horse,  dog,  gun,  wife, 
statesmen,  and  country.  Their  fearless  ardor  and  frankness  and  self- 
confidence,  become  to  their  young  men,  in  other  parts  of  the  West,  in 
competition  for  place  and  precedence  as  a good  star.  When  a Kentuck- 
ian presents  himself  in  another  state,  as  a candidate  for  an  office,  in  com- 
petition with  a candidate  from  another  state,  other  circumstances  being 
equal,  the  Kentuckian  carries  it. — Wherever  the  Kentuckian  travels  he 
earnestly  and  affectionately  remembers  his  native  hills  and  plains  His 
thoughts  as  incessantly  turn  towards  home,  as  those  of  the  Swiss.  He 
invokes  the  genius  of  his  country  in  trouble,  danger,  and  solitude.  It  is 
to  him  the  home  of  plenty,  beauty,  greatness  and  every  thing  that  he  de- 
sires, or  respects.  This  nationality  never  deserts  him.  No  country  will 
bear  a comparison  with  his  country;  no  people  with  his  people.  The 
English  are  said  to  go  into  battle  with  a song  about  roast  beef  in  their 
mouths.  When  the  Kentuckian  encounters  dangers  of  battle,  or  any 
kind,  when  he  is  even  on  board  a foundering  ship,  his  last  exclamation  is, 

6 hurrah  for  old  Kentucky.’ 


366 


KENTUCKY, 


Religion.  The  prevailing  denominations  are  baptists,  presbyterians,  meth- 
odists,  Cumberland  presbyterians  and  seceders.  The  people  manifest  their 
excitable  and  ardent  character  upon  this  as  upon  all  other  subjects.  They 
have  an  insatiable  curiosity  to  hear  new  preachers,  and  an  extreme  eager- 
ness for  novelty.  Religious  excitements  are  common,  and  carried  to  the 
highest  point  of  emotion.  Religion,  in  some  form,  seems  to  be  generally 
respected;  and  there  is  scarcely  a village,  or  a populous  settlement  in  the 
state,  that  has  not  one,  or  more,  favorite  preachers.  It  would  be  difficult 
to  say,  which  is  the  predominant  denomination,  that  of  the  baptists,  meth- 
odists,  or  presbyterians.  But  notwithstanding  the  marked  enthusiasm  of 
the  character  of  this  people,  notwithstanding  they  are  much  addicted  to 
bitter  political  disputation,  notwithstanding  all  the  collisions  from  op- 
posing parties  and  clans,  as  a state,  the  people  have  uniformly  distinguish- 
ed themselves  for  religious  order,  quiet  and  tolerance. 

Constitution , Government , 6$c.  The  legislative  power  is  divided  as 
usual.  The  senators  are  elected  for  four  years  and  the  representatives  for 
one.  A person  to  be  eligible  as  a senator,  must  be  thirty -five  years  of 
age,  a citizen  of  the  United  States,  must  have  resided  six  years  in  the 
state,  and  one  year  in  the  district  for  which  he  is  chosen.  A representa- 
tive must  be  twenty-four  years  of  age,  a citizen  of  the  United  States, 
must  have  resided  in  the  state  two  years,  and  in  the  district  one.  The 
governer  is  elected  for  four  years,  and  is  eligible  four  years  out  of  eleven. 
He  must  be  thirty  years  of  age,  a citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  must 
have  resided  in  the  state  two  years,  and  in  the  district  one.  He  has  a 
qualified  negative  upon  the  proceedings  of  the  assembly,  has  a pardoning 
power,  and  makes  appointments  with  the  consent  of  the  senate.  The 
judiciary  consists  in  a supreme  court,  and  in  such  inferior  courts  as  the 
assembly  may  appoint,  and  the  judges  retain  their  offices  during  good 
behaviour.  Every  free  white  male  citizen  of  the  age  of  twenty-one, 
who  has  resided  in  the  state  two  years,  or  one  year  in  the  distrct  is 
entitled  to  the  elective  franchise. 


INDIANA 


Length,  250.  Breadth,  150  miles.  Between  37°  47'  and  41° 
50'  N.  latitude,  and  7°  45'  and  11°  W.  longitude.  Bounded  north  by 
Michigan  Territory  and  lake.  West  by  the  state  of  Illinois.  South  by 
the  Ohio,  which  divides  it  from  Kentucky;  East  by  the  state  of  Ohio. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 


Counties . 

Chief  Towns . 

Allen, 

Port  Wayne, 

Bartholomew, 

Columbus, 

Boone, 

Carroll, 

Delphi, 

Cass, 

Logansport, 

Clark, 

Charlestown, 

Clay, 

Bowling  Green, 

Clinton, 

Crawford, 

Fredonia, 

Daviess, 

W ashington, 

Dearborn, 

Lawrenceburgh, 

Delaware,  . 

Decatur, 

Greensburgh, 

Dubois, 

Barbersville, 

Elkhart, 

Fayette, 

Conners  ville, 

Floyd, 

New  Albany, 

Fountain, 

Covington, 

Franklin, 

Brookville, 

Gibson, 

Princeton, 

Greene, 

Bloomfield, 

Grant, 

368 


INDIANA, 


Hamilton, 

Hancock, 

Nobles  ville, 

Harrison, 

Corydon, 

Henry, 

New  Castle, 

Hendricks, 

Danville, 

Jackson, 

Brownstown, 

Jefferson, 

Madison, 

Jennings, 

Vernon, 

Johnson, 

Franklin, 

Knox, 

Vincennes, 

Lawrence,, 

Bedford, 

Madison, 

Andersontown, 

Marion, 

Indianapolis, 

Martin, 

Mount  Pleasant, 

Monroe, 

Bloomington, 

Montgomery, 

Crawfordsville, 

Morgan, 

Martinsville, 

Orange , 

Pavli, 

Owen, 

Spencer, 

Parke, 

Rockville, 

Perry, 

Rome, 

Pike, 

Petersburgh, 

Posey, 

Mt.  Vernon  & Harmony, 

Putnam, 

Green  Castle, 

Randolph, 

Winchester, 

Ripley, 

Versailles, 

Rush* 

Rushville, 

Scott, 

Lexington, 

Shelby, 

Shelbyville, 

Spencer, 

St.  Joseph, 

Rockport, 

Sullivan, 

Merom, 

Switzerland, 

Vevay, 

Tippicanoe, 

Lafayette, 

Union , 

Liberty, 

Vanderburgh, 

Evansville, 

Vermillion, 

Newport, 

Vigo, 

Terrehaute, 

Wabash, 

Warren, 

Warrich, 

Booneville, 

Washington, 

Salem, 

Wayne, 

Centreville  & Richmond 

INDIANA. 


369 


The  whole  of  this  state  belongs  to  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  or  lake 
Michigan.  It  is  the  first  of  the  states,  in  advancing  from  the  west,  east, 
and  north,  where  nature  seems  to  have  divided  the  surface  between  prairie 
and  wood  land.  The  greater  proportion  of  this  state  is  a timbered 
country.  Here,  too,  we  first  find  the  number  and  manners  of  northern 
people  predominating  among  the  immigrants.  Here  we  first  discover,  in 
most  places,  a clear  ascendency  of  New  England  dialect,  manners,  and 
population.  Here,  too,  we  note  the  natural  tendency  of  this  order  of 
things,  and  this  class  of  immigrants  rapidly,  and  yet  silently  filling  the 
country  with  inhabitants.  Missouri  and  Illinois  have  occupied  a greater 
space  in  public  estimation,  in  newspaper  description,  and  in  general 
notoriety.  The  immigration  to  these  states  have  been  with  four  or  six 
horse  wagons,  large  droves  of  cattle,  considerable  numbers  of  negroes, 
and  composed  of  immigrants,  who  had  name,  and  were  heads  of  families, 
when  they  removed,  and  whose  immigration  was  accompanied  with  a 
certain  degree  of  eclat.  The  acquisition  of  a few  families  was  attended 
with  circumstances,  which  gave  it  public  notoriety.  The  settling  of  this 
state  has  been  generally  of  a different  character,  and  for  the  most  part  of 
young  men,  either  unmarried  or  without  families.  It  has  been  noiseless 
and  unnoticed.  But  the  difference  of  the  result  strikes  us  with  surprise. 
While  the  population  of  neither  of  these  states  has  reached  150,000,  the 
population  of  this  state,  at  this  time,  is  supposed  to  exceed  400,000, 
though  the  total  given  by  the  census  is  344,000, — of  these  65,359  are 
free  white  male  inhabitants  over  21  years.  The  number  of  voters  in 
1825,  was  36,977,  and  of  paupers  217. 

Face  of  the  Country , Soil , S$c.  The  south  front  is  skirted  with  the 
usual  belt  of  river  hills,  bluffs  and  knobs,  known  by  the  name  of  ‘Ohio 
hills.’  They  occupy  a greater  or  less  distance  from  the  river;  some- 
times leaving  between  it  and  their  base  a bottom  of  two  or  three  miles  in 
width;  and  sometimes,  and  for  no  inconsiderable  length  of  the  southern 
boundary,  they  tower  directly  from  the  waters  of  the  Ohio,  and  have  a 
thousand  aspects  of  grandeur  and  beauty,  often  rising  higher  than  300 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  The  eye  of  the  southern  traveller, 
ascending  the  Ohio,  which  has  been  used  to  rest  on  bottoms  boundless  to 
vision,  on  swamps,  and  regions  without  a rock  or  a hill  in  the  scenery, 
never  tires,  in  surveying  these  beautiful  bluffs,  especially  in  the  spring, 
when  their  declivities  are  crimsoned  with  the  red  bud,  or  whitened  with 
the  brilliant  blossoms  of  the  dog  wood,  or  rendered  verdant  with  the 
beautiful  May  apple. 

A range  of  knobs,  stretching  from  the  Ohio  to  White  River  of  the  Wa- 
bash, forms  the  limits  of  the  table  lands,  that  separate  the  waters  of  the 

47 


370 


INDIANA. 


Ohio  from  those  of  White  River.  North  of  the  Wabash,  between  Tippi- 
canoe  and  Ouitanon,  the  Wabash  hills  are  precipitous,  and  a considerable 
extent  of  conn  try  is  rough  and  broken.  There  are  in  different  parts  of 
the  state,  large  extents  of  country,  that  may  be  pronounced  hilly.  Such 
is  the  south  front  of  the  state  to  a considerable  distance  from  the  Ohio. 
There  are  not  such  extensive  plains  in  this  state,  as  in  Illinois.  Nor  are 
there  any  hills  to  vie  with  those  back  of  Shawneetown.  But  with  some 
few  exceptions,  the  greater  proportion  of  this  state  may  be  pronounced 
one  vast  level.  To  particularize  the  level  tracts  would  be  to  describe 
three  fifths  of  the  state.  The  prairies  here,  as  elsewhere,  are  uniformly 
level.  The  wide  extent  of  country,  watered  by  White  River,  is  generally 
level.  The  prairies  have  the  usual  distinction  of  high  and  low,  swampy 
and  alluvial.  For  a wide  extent  on  the  north  front  of  the  state,  between 
the  Wabash  and  lake  Michigan  the  country  is  generally  an  extended 
plain,  alternately  prairie  and  timbered  land,  with  a great  proportion  of 
swampy  lands,  and  small  lakes  and  ponds.  The  prairies  are  no  ways  dif- 
ferent from  those  of  Illinois;  alike  rich,  level,  and  covered  with  grass  and 
flowering  plants.  Some  like  those  of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  are  broader 
than  can  be  measured  by  the  eye.  Their  divisions  are  marked  off  where 
ever  streams  cross  them  by  belts  of  timbered  land.  All  the  rivers  of  this 
state  have  remarkably  wide  alluvions.  Every  traveller  has  spoken  with 
admiration  of  the  beauty  and  fertility  of  the  prairies  along  the  course  of 
the  Wabash,  particularly  of  those  in  the  vicinity  of  Fort  Harrison.  Com- 
petent judges  prefer  the  prairies  on  this  part  of  the  river,  both  for  beauty 
and  fertilty  to  those  of  the  Illinois,  and  the  Upper  Mississippi.  Perhaps 
no  part  of  the  western  world  can  show  greater  extents  of  rich  land  in  one 
body,  than  that  portion  of  White  River  country,  of  which  Indianapolis  is 
the  centre.  Judging  of  Indiana,  from  travelling  through  the  south  front 
from  12  to  20  miles  from  the  Ohio, we  should  not,  probably,  compare  it  with 
Ohio  or  Illinois.  But  now,  when  the  greater  part  of  the  territory  is  pur- 
chased of  the  Indians,  and  all  is  surveyed,  and  well  understood,  it  is  found 
that  this  state  possesses  as  large  a proportion  of  first  rate  lands,  as  any  in 
the  western  country.  With  some  few  exceptions  of  wide  prairies,  the 
divisions  of  timbered  and  prairie  lands  are  more  happily  balanced,  than  in 
other  parts  of  the  western  country.  Many  rich  prairies  are  long  and  nar- 
row, so  that  the  whole  can  be  taken  up,  and  timber  be  easily  accessible  by 
all  the  settlers.  There  are  hundreds  of  prairies  only  large  enough  for  a few 
farms.  Even  in  the  large  prairies  are  those  beautiful  islands  of  timbered 
land,  which  form  such  a striking  feature  in  the  western  prairies.  The 
great  extents  of  fertile  land,  the  happy  distribution  of  rivers  and  springs 
may  be  one  cause  of  the  unexampled  rapidity,  with  which  this  state  has 


INDIANA. 


371 


peopled.  Another  reason  may  be,  that  being  a non-slaveholding  state, 
and  next  in  position  beyond  Ohio,  it  was  happily  situated  to  arrest  the 
tide  of  immigration,  that  set  beyond  Ohio,  after  that  state  was  filled. 

We  add  a few  remarks  in  a single  view,  upon  the  qualities  of  the  soil, 
on  the  several  rivers,  and  near  the  towns,  which  we  shall  describe.  The 
forest  trees,  shrubs,  plants  and  grasses  do  not  materially  differ  from  those 
of  Illinois  and  Missouri.  There  is  one  specific  difference,  that  should  be 
noted.  There  is  a much  greater  proportion  of  beech  timber,  which  in- 
creases so  much,  as  we  advance  east,  than  in  Ohio,  it  is  clearly  the  princi- 
pal kind  of  timber.  This  state  is  equally  fertile  in  corn,  rye,  oats,  barley, 
wheat  and  the  cereal  gramina  in  general.  Vast  extents  of  the  richer  prai- 
ries and  bottoms  are  too  rich  for  wheat,  until  the  natural  wild  luxuriance 
in  the  soil  has  been  reduced  by  cropping.  Upland  rice  has  been  attempt- 
ed with  success.  Some  of  the  warm  and  sheltered  vallies  have  yielded, 
in  favorable  years,  considerable  crops  of  cotton.  No  country  can  exceed 
this  in  its  adaptedness  for  rearing  the  finest  fruits  and  fruit  bearing  shrubs. 
Wild  berries  in  many  places  are  abundant;  and  on  some  of  the  prairies 
the  strawberries  are  large  and  fine.  It  is  affirmed  that  in  the  .northern 
parts  in  the  low  prairies  whole  tracts  are  covered  with  the  beautiful  fowl- 
meadow  grass  poa  pratensis , of  the  north.  It  is  a certain  fact,  that 
wherever  the  Indians  or  the  French  have  inhabited  long  enough  to  destroy 
the  natural  prairie  grass,  which,  it  is  well  known,  is  soon  eradicated,  by 
being  pastured  by  the  domestic  animals,  that  surround  a farmer’s  barn, 
this  grass  is  replaced  by  the  blue  grass  of  the  western  country,  which  fur- 
nishes not  only  a beautiful  sward,  but  covers  the  earth  with  a mat  of  rich 
fodder,  not  unlike  the  second  crop,  which  is  cut  in  the  northern  states,  as 
the  most  valuable  kind  of  hay.  For  all  the  objects  of  farming,  and  raising 
grain,  flour,  hemp,  tobacco,  cattle,  sheep,  swine,  horses  and  generally  the 
articles  of  the  northern  and  middle  states,  immigrants  could  not  desire  a 
better  country,  than  may  be  found  in  Indiana.  In  the  rich  bottoms  in  the 
southern  parts,  the  reed  cane,  and  uncommonly  large  ginseng  are  abun- 
dant. 

Climate , S$c.  Little  need  be  said  upon  this  head,  for  this  state, 
situated  in  nearly  the  same  parallels  with  Illinois  and  Missouri,  has  much 
the  same  temperature.  That  part  of  it  which  is  contiguous  to  lake 
Michigan,  is  more  subject  to  copious  rains;  and  being  otherwise  low  and 
marshy,  much  of  the  land  is  too  wet  for  cultivation.  Some  have  described 
the  country  and  climate  near  lake  Michigan  as  productive  and  delightful. 
For  a considerable  distance  from  the  lake,  sand  heaps  covered  with  a 
few  stinted  junipers,  and  swept  by  the  gales  of  the  lake,  give  no  promise 
of  a fine  country  or  climate.  But  beyond  the  influence  of  the  lake 


37*2 


INDIANA. 


breeze,  the  climate  is  cool,  mild  and  temperate.  The  state,  in  general, 
is  somewhat  less  exposed  to  the  extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  than  Illinois. 

In  point  of  salubrity,  we  can  do  no  more  than  repeat  the  remarks, 
which  have  so  often  been  found  applicable  to  the  western  country  in 
general,  and  which  from  the  nature  of  things  must  apply  to  all  countries. 
The  high  and  rolling  regions  of  this  state  are  as  healthy  as  the  same 
kinds  of  land  in  the  other  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  wet  prairies, 
swampy  lands,  and  tracts  contiguous  to  small  lakes  and  ponds,  and  inun- 
dated bottoms,  intersected  by  bayous,  generate  fever  and  ague,  and 
autumnal  fevers,  and  impart  a bilious  tendency  to  all  the  disorders  of  the 
country.  The  beautiful  prairies  above  Vincennes,  on  the  Wabash,  in  the 
neighborhood  of  Fort  Harrison  and  Tippicanoe,  are  found  to  have  some 
balance  against  their  fertility,  beauty  of  appearance,  and  the  ease  with 
which  they  are  cultivated,  in  their  insalubrity.  That  the  settlers  in 
general,  have  found  this  state,  taken  as  a whole,  favorable  to  health,  the 
astonishing  increase  of  the  population  bears  ample  testimony. 

The  winters  are  mild,  compared  with  those  of  New  England  or  Penn- 
sylvania. Winter  commences  in  its  severity  about  Christmas,  and  lasts 
seldom  more  than  six  weeks.  During  this  time  in  most  seasons,  the 
rivers,  that  have  not  very  rapid  currents,  are  frozen.  Though  winters 
occur,  in  which  the  Wabash  cannot  be  crossed  upon  the  ice.  About  the 
middle  of  February,  the  severity  of  winter  is  past.  In  the  northern  parts 
of  the  state,  snow  sometimes,  though  rarely,  falls  a foot  and  a half  in 
depth.  In  the  middle  and  southern  parts,  it  seldom  falls  more  than  six 
inches.  Peach  trees  are  generally  in  blossom  early  in  March.  The 
forests  begin  to  be  green  from  the  5th  to  the  15th  of  April.  Vast  num- 
bers of  flowering  shrubs  are  in  full  flower,  before  they  are  in  leaf,  which 
gives  an  inexpressible  charm  to  the  early  appearance  of  spring.  Vegeta- 
tion is  liable  to  be  injured  both  by  early  and  late  frosts. 

Rivers.  The  southern  shore  of  this  state  is  washed  by  the  Ohio,  from 
the  mouth  of  the  Big  Miami  to  that  of  the  Wabash,  a distance  of  nearly 
500  miles,  by  the  meanders  of  the  river.  We  reserve  a description  of 
this  noble  stream  for  our  account  of  the  state  of  Ohio.  Between  the 
Miami  and  the  Wabash,  the  following  considerable  streams,  together 
with  many  small  ones,  enter  the  Ohio.  Tanner’s  Creek  falls  in  two 
miles  below  Lawrenceburgh,  and  has  a course  of  30  miles.  Loughery’s 
Creek  enters  11  miles  below  the  Miami,  and  is  40  miles  in  length. 
Indian  Creek,  called  by  the  Swiss,  in  remembrance  of  a stream  in  their 
native  country,  Venoge,  bounds  the  Swiss  settlements  on  the  south,  and 
enters  the  Ohio  eight  miles  below  the  point  opposite  to  Kentucky  River. 
Wyandot,  Big  Blue,  Little  Blue,  Anderson’s  River,  Pigeon  and  Beaver 


INDIANA. 


373 


Creeks  enter  in  the  order  in  which  we  have  mentioned  them,  as  we  descend 
the  Ohio.  In  descending  this  distance,  we  discover  the  deep  chasm  through 
the  banks  of  the  Ohio,  where  a great  many  smaller  streams  enter.  Many 
of  these  streams,  at  some  distance  from  the  Ohio,  afford  mill  seats.  We 
may  therefore  remark,  that  the  south  front  of  Indiana  is  well  watered. 

' The  Wabash  is  the  chief  river  of  this  state;  and  after  the  Tennessee 
one  of  the  most  considerable  tributaries  of  the  Ohio.  It  glides  through 
the  central  parts  of  the  state,  and  by  its  extensive  branches  waters  a vast 
extent  of  it.  One  of  the  main  branches  heads  near  Fort  St.  Mary’s,  in 
Darke  county,  Ohfb.  The  next  considerable  branch  called  Little  River, 
heads  seven  miles  south  of  Fort  Wayne,  and  enters  the  Wabash,  eighty 
miles  below  St.  Mary ’s  Portage.  The  next  is  Massassineway,  which 
also  heads  in  Ohio,  between  Forts  Greenville  and  Recovery ; and  joins  it  a 
league  and  a half  below  the  mouth  of  Little  River.  Eel  River,  another 
branch,  rises  in  ponds  and  lakes,  eighteen  miles  west  of  Fort  Wayne,  and 
joins  the  Wabash,  eight  miles  below  the  mouth  of  the  Massassineway. 
Rejoicing,  Mascontin,  Ouitanon,  and  Deche  are  inconsiderable  tributaries. 

White  River  enters  the  Wabash  from  the  eastern  side,  sixteen  miles 
below  Vincennes.  It  is  the  most  considerable  tributary  of  the  Wabash; 
and  one  of  the  most  important  rivers  in  the  state.  It  waters  a great  extent 
of  very  fertile  country,  in  a lateral  direction  to  the  main  stream.  Its 
headwaters  interlock  with  the  waters  of  the  Miami.  Its  principal  tribu- 
taries are  Driftwood  Branch,  Muddy  Fork,  and  Tea-kettle  Branch. 

Little  River,  St.  Mary’s,  Rock  River,  and  Pomme,  are  inconsiderable 
tributaries,  that  enter  from  the  eastern  side.  It  receives  a great  number 
of  considerable  tributaries  from  the  west.  Richard’s  Creek  and  Rock 
River  enter  above  Tippicanoe.  This  stream  has  acquired  lasting  fame 
by  the  bloody  action  which  was  fought  upon  its  banks,  between  the  United 
States’  troops,  under  General  Harrison,  and  the  Wabash  savages  in 
November,  1811.  It  originates  from  many  branches  in  ponds  and  lakes, 
which,  like  that  at  the  source  of  the  Plein  of  the  Illinois,  discharge  at 
one  extremity  into  the  waters  of  the  Wabash,  and  at  the  other  into  the 
Maumee  of  the  lakes.  Before  the  battle  of  Tippicanoe  the  Indians  had 
fields  in  high  cultivation  along  the  banks  of  this  river.  Below  this  river 
from  the  west,  enter  in  succession,  Pine,  Redwood,  Rejoicing,  Little 
Vermillion,  Erabliere,  Da chette  and  Brouette  Rivers,  which  are  inconsid- 
erable streams,  that  head  in  the  state  of  Illinois. 

White  Water  is  a branch  of  the  Big  Miami,  and  a very  interesting  river. 
It  rises  near  Fort  Greenville,  in  Ohio.  Not  far  from  its  source  it  crosses 
into  this  state,  and  in  its  devious  course,  waters  a large  extent  of  fertile 
country.  The  West  Fork  unites  with  it  at  Brookville,  30  miles  above  its 
entrance  into  the  Miami.  This  beautiful  stream  is  supposed  to  water 


374 


INDIANA. 


nearly  a million  acres  of  land.  It  abounds  in  fine  fish,  and  surpasses  the 
other  rivers  of  the  country  in  the  unusual  transparency  of  waters.  It  has 
its  sources  in  copious  hill  springs,  and  its  waters  are  uncommonly  cold. 
The  people  in  its  vicinity  have  an  idea  that  its  waters  are  too  much  want- 
ing in  specific  gravity,  or  too  little  buoyant,  for  ordinary  swimmers  to 
trust  themselves  to  bathe  in  it. 

The  northern  front  of  the  state,  bordering  on  the  territory  of  Michigan, 
and  the  lake  of  that  name,  is  watered  copiously  by  rivers,  that  empty  into 
that  lake  and  lake  Erie.  The  principal  of  these  are  the  St.  Joseph  of  the 
Maumee  of  the  lakes,  and  its  numerous  branches,  the  river  Raisin  of  lake 
Erie,  Black  River  of  lake  Michigan  with  its  numerous  branches;  Chemin, 
Big  and  Little  Kenomic,  all  of  that  lake,  and  Theakiki,  Kickapoo,  Plein, 
and  the  Vermillion  of  Illinois.  These  numerous  rivers  generally  have 
short  courses,  and  carry  large  volumes  of  water.  Most  of  them  originate 
in  ponds  and  lakes,  of  which  an  hundred  exist  along  the  northern  frontier. 
Many  have  the  peculiar  character  of  such  waters  in  this  region,  that  is 
to  say,  a position  on  an  elevated  plateau,  from  one  extremity  of  which 
the  waters  discharge  into  the  lakes,  and  from  the  other  into  the  waters  of 
the  Mississippi. 

Although  this  state  has  not  so  great  an  extent  of  inland  navigation  as 
Illinois,  the  amount  of  that  navigation  is  very  great.  Many  of  its  waters 
interlock  with  those  of  the  Illinois.  It  possesses  the  whole  extent  of  the 
noble  Wabash,  and  White  River,  and  its  numerous  boatable  branches. 
By  these  large  marshy  ponds,  which  at  once  discharge  into  lake  Michigan 
and  Erie  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  gulf  of  Mexico  on  the  other,  with  a 
small  expense  of  money  and  labor,  the  lakes  will  be  united  by  canals  with 
the  Ohio  and  Illinois.  A navigable  canal  already  connects  the  White 
Water  by  the  Big  Miami  with  the  Ohio,  at  Cincinnati.  This  state  so 
rapidly  becoming  populous,  is  the  younger  sister  of  Ohio,  and  will  soon 
dispute  the  point  of  population  and  importance.  It  will  ere  long  emulate 
the  enterprise,  the  canals  and  great  public  works  of  its  model.  By  the 
lakes  the  northern  frontier  is  already  connected  with  Canada  and  New 
York.  The  whole  extent  of  the  inland  navigation  may  be  fairly  rated  at 
5,000  miles. 

Chief  Towns.  Character  of  the  country  in  which  they  are  situated. 
The  tabular  view  of  county  towns  presents  the  names  of  the  most  con- 
siderable villages  in  this  state.  To  mention,  in  detail,  all  that  have  really 
attained  some  degree  of  consequence,  would  only  furnish  a barren  cata- 
logue of  names.  We  will  mention  the  chief  of  those  on  the  Ohio,  in 
descending  order,  beginning  with  Lawrenceburgb,  on  the  south-eastern 
angle  of  the  state. 


INDIANA. 


375 


This  town,  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Dearborn,  stands  on 
the  north  bank  of  the  Ohio,  23  miles  below  Cincinnati,  and  two  miles 
below  the  Big  Miami,  the  eastern  limit  of  the  state.  It  is  in  the  centre  of 
a rich  bottom.  The  ancient  village  was  built  on  the  first  bottom,  which 
was  frequently  exposed  to  inundation.  It  was  not  uncommon  for  the 
water  to  rise  four  or  five  feet  above  the  foundations  of  the  houses,  in 
which  case  the  inhabitants  removed  to  the  upper  story,  and  drove  their 
domestic  animals  to  the  hills.  Visits  and  tea  parties  were  projected  in  the 
inundated  town,  and  the  vehicle^  of  transport  skiffs  and  periogues.  The 
period  of  the  flood,  from  ancient  custom,  and  the  suspension  of  all  the 
customary  pursuits,  became  a time  of  carnival.  The  floods,  instead  of 
creating  disease,  wash  the  surface  of  the  earth,  carry  off  vegetable  and 
animal  matter,  and  are  supposed  to  be  rather  conducive  to  health  than 
otherwise.  The  old  town,  built  on  the  first  bank,  had  been  stationary  for 
many  years.  New  Lawrenceburgh  has  been  recently  built  on  the  second 
bank,  and  on  elevated  ground,  formed  by  the  bank  of  Tanner’s  Creek. 
Since  the  commencement  of  this  town  few  places  have  made  more  rapid 
progress.  Many  of  the  new  houses  are  handsome ; and  some  of  them 
make  a handsome  show  from  the  river.  Its  position,  in  relation  to  the 
river,  the  rich  adjacent  country,  and  the  Big  Miami,  is  highly  eligible. 
It  has  a number  of  respectable  commencing  manufactories,  and  promises 
to  be  a large  town.  It  contains  1,000  inhabitants. 

Aurora  is  a new  village,  at  the  mouth  of  Hogan  Creek,  four  miles 
below,  on  the  Ohio.  It  contains  between  60  and  70  dwellings.  Rising 
Sun,  13  miles  below  Lawrenceburgh,  occupies  a beautiful  position  on  the 
Ohio,  and  is  a village  something  larger  than  Aurora. 

Vevay,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Switzerland  county,  is  situated  8 miles 
above  the  point,  opposite  the  mouth  of  Kentucky  River,  and  45  miles 
below  Cincinnati.  It  contains  between  2 and  300  houses,  a court  house, 
jail,  academy,  printing  office,  from  which  issues  a weekly  journal,  a branch 
of  the  Bank  of  Indiana,  and  some  other  public  buildings.  This  inter- 
esting town  was  commenced  in  1804,  by  30  Swiss  families,  to  whom  the 
United  States  made  a grant,  under  favorable  stipulations,  of  a considera- 
ble tract  of  land,  to  patronize  the  cultivation  of  the  vine.  The  patriarch 
of  this  colony  was  a Swiss  gentleman,  of  the  name  of  J.  J.  Dufour, 
who  continued  an  intelligent  friend  to  the  town.  The  colony  soon 
received  considerable  accessions  from  the  mountains  of  Switzerland. 
In  grateful  remembrance  of  their  native  hills,  and  to  create  in  the  bosom 
of  their  adopted  country  tender  associations  with  their  ancient  country, 
they  named  their  stream  Venoge,  and  their  tow?n  Vevay.  Messrs.  Dufour, 
Morerod,  Bettens,  Siebenthal,  and  others,  commenced  the  cultivation  of 
the  grape  on  a large  scale.  This  cultivation  has  gone  on  steadily  in- 


376 


INDIANA. 


creasing.  An  hundred  experiments  have  been  since  commenced  in  dif- 
ferent points  of  the  West.  But  this  still  remains  the  largest  vineyard  in 
the  United  States.  We  have  witnessed  nothing  in  our  country,  in  the 
department  of  gardening  and  cultivation,  which  can  compare  with  the 
richness  of  this  vineyard,  in  the  autumn,  when  the  clusters  are  in 
maturity.  Words  feebly  paint  such  a spectacle.  The  horn  of  plenty 
seems  to  have  been  emptied  in  the  production  of  this  rich  fruit.  We 
principally  remarked  the  blue  or  Cape  grape  and  the  Madeira  grape. 
The  wine  of  the  former  has  been  preferred  to  the  Claret  of  Bordeaux. 
The  fruit  -tends  to  become  too  succulent  and  abundant.  It  is  now  sup- 
posed that  some  of  our  native  grapes,  will  more  easily  acclimate,  and 
make  a better  wine.  These  amiable  and  industrious  people  are  constantly 
profiting  by  experience.  This  species  of  agriculture  already  yields  them 
a better  profit  than  any  other  practised  in  our  country.  They  are  every 
year  improving  on  the  vintage  of  the  past.  They  are  the  simple  and 
interesting  inhabitants  that  we  might  expect,  from  the  prepossessions 
of  early  reading,  to  find  from  the  vine  clad  hills  of  Switzerland.  They 
are  mostly  protestants,  and  happily  compound  the  vivacity  of  the  French 
with  the  industry  of  the  Germans.  Like  the  former  they  love  gaiety 
and  dancing.  Like  the  latter  they  easily  fall  in  with  the  spirit  of  our 
institutions,  love  our  country  and  its  laws,  intermarry  with  our  people,  and 
are  in  all  respects  a most  amiable  people.  There  is  a considerable  num- 
ber of  professional  men  in  Vevay,  a public  library,  a literary  society,  and 
many  of  the  comforts  and  improvements  of  a town.  Mr.  Dufour  has 
distinguished  himself  by  agricultural  publications,  particularly  upon  the 
culture  of  the  vine.  This  industrious  people  have  created  some  manu- 
factures, peculiar  to  themselves,  particularly  that  of  straw  bonnets.  The 
position  of  the  town  is  fortunate,  in  relation  to  the  back  country,  and  the 
other  interior  large  towns. 

Madison,  the  most  populous,  and  one  of  the  pleasantest  and  most 
thriving  towns  in  the  state;  is  situated  on  the  Ohio, nearly  equi- distant 
between  Louisville  and  Cincinnati,  and  was  commenced  in  1811.  In 
1829  between  40  and  50  brick  buildings,  many  of  them  three  stories, 
were  added  to  the  town;  and  the  promise  of  future  progress  is  equally 
great.  Its  position  on  the  Ohio  is  peculiarly  favorable,  it  being  the  point 
of  the  river  nearest  to  Indianapolis,  84  miles  from  it,  and  the  landing 
place  for  the  imports  from  the  Ohio  to  a number  of  the  newly  settled  and 
thriving  counties.  Besides  churches  and  public  buildings,  it  has  25  dry 
good’s  stores,  many  of  them  transacting  an  extensive  business.  A line 
of  stages  passes  through  it.  It  has  two  printing  offices,  and  issues  a 
respectable  weekly  gazette.  It  has  an  insurance  company,  and  expects  a 
branch  of  the  United  States  Bank.  It  does  a large  business  in  exports  of 


INDIANA. 


377 


the  produce  of  the  country,  and  is  particularly  noted  for  the  quantity  of 
pork  barrelled  here.  It  contains  2,000  inhabitants. 

New  London,  ten  miles  lower  on  the  river,  and  Charlestown,  29  miles 
lower,  and  two  miles  back  from  the  Ohio,  are  small  villages.  The  land 
about  the  latter  town  was  a grant  of  gratitude  from  Virginia  to  the  brave 
General  Clark  and  his  soldiers,  for  their  achievements  at  the  close  of  the 
revolutionary  war. 

Jeffersonville  is  situated  just  above  the  falls  of  Ohio.  The  town  of 
Louisville  on  the  opposite  shore,  and  the  beautiful  and  rich  country 
beyond,  together  with  the  broad  and  rapid  river*,  forming  whitening  sheets 
and  cascades  from  shore  to  shore,  the  display  of  steam  boats,  added  to  the 
high  banks,  the  neat  village,  and  the  noble  woods  on  the  north  bank,  unite 
to  render  the  scenery  of  this  village  uncommonly  rich  and  diversified. 
It  is  a considerable  and  handsome  village  with  some  houses,  that  have  a 
show  of  magnificence.  It  has  a land  office,  a post  office,  a printing  office, 
and  some  other  public  buildings.  It  was  contemplated  to  canal  the  falls 
on  this  side  of  the  river;  and  a company  with  a large  capital  was  incor- 
porated by  the  legislature.  In  1819,  the  work  was  commenced,  but  has 
not  been  prosecuted  with  the  success  that  was  hoped.  The  completion 
of  the  canal  on  the  opposite  side  will,  probably,  merge  this  project,  by 
rendering  it  useless.  One  of  the  principal  chutes  of  the  river,  in  low 
water,  is  near  this  shore;  and  experienced  pilots,  appointed  by  the  state, 
are  always  in  readiness  to  conduct  boats  over  the  falls.  Clarksville  is  a 
small  village  just  below  this  place. 

New  Albany,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Floyd  county,  is  four  and  a half 
miles  below  Jeffersonville.  The  front  street  is  three  quarters  of  a mile  in 
length,  and  makes  a respectable  appearance  from  the  river.  Many  steam 
boats,  that  cannot  pass  the  falls,  are  laid  up  for  repair  at  this  place,  dur- 
ing the  summer.  It  has  a convenient  ship  yard  for  building  steam  boats, 
and  is  a thriving  and  busy  village,  containing  1,900  inhabitants. 

Fredonia,  Leavenworth,  Rockport,  and  Evansville  occur,  as  we  descend 
the  Ohio.  The  last  is  a village  of  some  consequence.  It  is  the  landing 
place  for  immigrants,  descending  the  Ohio,  for  the  Wabash.  It  is  at  the 
mouth  of  Big  Pigeon  Creek,  54  miles  south  of  Vincennes,  and  45  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Wabash.  Being  about  half  way  between  the  falls  of 
Ohio  and  the  mouth,  it  is  a noted  stopping  place  for  steam  boats. 

Corydon,  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Harrison,  was  for  a con- 
siderable time  the  political  metropolis  of  this  state.  It  is  distant  23 
miles  from  Jeffersonville,  and  13  from  the  Ohio,  and  is  situated  in  the 
forks  of  Indian  Creek.  North  of  the  town,  spreads  an  extensive  region 
of  barrens,  full  of  sink  holes  and  lime  stone  caves. 


48 


37S 


INDIANA. 


Salem,  on  a small  branch  of  Blue  River,  34  miles  north  of  Corydon, 
is  a flourishing  county  town,  containing  more  than  100  houses. — 
Brownstown,  Paoli,  and  Washington,  are  inferior  county  towns.  The 
following  towns  are  on  the  Wabash  as  we  descend  the  river.  Above 
Tippicanoe  is  the  old  French  post  of  Ouitanon,  at  the  head  of  boatable 
navigation  on  the  river,  in  the  centre  of  what  was  recently  the  country  of 
the  savages.  Its  origin  dates  back  nearly  one  hundred  years.  The  in- 
habitants are  a mixture  of  French  and  Indian  blood.  Merom  is  on  a high 
bluff  of  the  Wabash,  opposite  La  Motte  Prairie,  in  Illinois,  and  is  in  the 
centre  of  rich  and  beautiful  prairies.  It  has  peopled  with  great  rapidity. 
Terre  Haute  is  situated  two  miles  below  Fort  Harrison,  as  its  name  im- 
ports, on  a high  bank  of  the  Wabash.  It  is  a growing  and  important 
village.  Shaker  Town,  1.5  miles  above  Vincennes,  contains  a community 
of  the  industrious  people  called  Shakers,  and  exhibits  the  marks  of  order 
and  neatness,  that  so  universally  characterize  this  people. 

Vincennes  is,  after  Kaskaskia,  the  oldest  place  in  the  western  world. 
It  was  settled  in  1735  by  French  emigrants,  from  Canada.  They  fixed 
themselves  here  in  a beautiful,  rich,  and  isolated  spot,  in  the  midst  of  the 
deserts.  For  an  age  they  had  little  intercourse  with  any  other  people  than 
savages.  Their  interests,  pursuits  and  feelings  were  identified  with  them. 
Their  descendants  are  reclaimed  from  their  savage  propensities;  and 
have  the  characteristic  vivacity  and  politeness  of  the  French  people.  It 
is  150  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash;  and  54  from  the  nearest 
point  of  the  Ohio.  It  has  improved  rapidly  of  late;  and  contains  300 
houses,  a brick  court  house  and  hotel,  a jail,  a respectable  building  for  an 
Academy,  a Roman  Catholic  and  a Presbyterian  church,  land  office,  post 
office,  two  printing  offices,  from  one  of  which  is  issued  a respectable 
gazette,  a bank,  and  some  other  public  buildings,  and  1,500  inhabitants. 
It  is  situated  contiguous  to  a beautiful  prairie,  5,000  acres  of  which  are 
cultivated  as  a common  field,  after  the  ancient  French  customs.  It  was 
for  a long  time  the  seat  of  the  territorial  government,  and  still  has  as 
much  trade  as  any  other  place  in  the  state.  The  plat  of  the  town  is  level, 
and  laid  off  with  regularity.  The  houses  have  extensive  gardens,  crowded 
after  the  French  fashion  with  fruit  trees.  It  is  accessible,  for  the  greater 
part  of  the  year,  by  steam  boats;  and  is  a place  of  extensive  supply  of 
merchandise  to  the  interior  of  the  state.  Volney,  who  visited  this  place 
not  long  after  the  establishment  of  the  Federal  Government,  gives  a 
graphic  and  faithful  account  of  the  appearance  of  this  place,  and  the 
adjoining  country,  the  French  inhabitants  and  their  manners.  At  the 
same  time  he  presents  a revolting  picture  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
Americans  had  treated  them.  Perhaps  he  had  not  learned  that  Vincennes 


INDIANA. 


379 


had  been  for  a long  time  a nest  of  savages,  from  which  they  fitted  out 
their  murderous  expeditions ; and  that  it  was  natural  that  the  Kentuckians 
who  had  suffered  much  from  them,  should  retaliate  upon  the  people  who 
had  harbored  them.  He  represents  them,  subsequently,  to  have  been 
cheated  out  of  their  lands  by  the  Americans,  and  their  ignorance  so 
profound,  that  little  more  than  half  their  number  could  read  or  write; 
and  he  avers  that  he  could  instantly  distinguish  them,  when  mixed  with 
the  Americans,  by  their  meagre  and  tanned  faces,  and  their  look  of  poverty 
and  desolation.  However  just  this  picture  may  have  been  in  1796,  it  is 
reversed  now.  Most  of  the  inhabitants  have  an  air  of  ease  and  affluence; 
and  Vincennes  furnishes  a pleasant  and  respectable  society. 

Harmony  is  fifty-four  miles  below  Vincennes,  and  something  more  than 
one  hundred  by  water  above  the  mouth  of  the  Wabash  on  the  east  bank 
of  the  river,  18  miles  from  the  nearest  point  of  the  Ohio,  on  a rich  and 
heavily  timbered  plateau,  or  second  bottom.  It  is  high,  "healthy,  has  a 
fertile  soil,  and  is  in  the  vicinity  of  small  and  rich  prairies,  and  is  a 
pleasant  and  well  chosen  position.  It  was  first  set'led  in  1814,  by  a re- 
ligious sect  of  Germans,  denominated  Harmonites.  They  were  emigrants 
from  Germany,  and  settled  first  on  Beaver  Creek  in  Pennsylvania.  They 
moved  in  a body,  consisting  of  800  souls,  to  this  place.  Their  spiritual 
and  temporal  leader  was  George  Rapp,  and  all  the  lands  and  possessions 
were  held  in  his  name.  Their  society  seems  to  have  been  a kind  of  inter- 
mediate sect  between  the  Shakers  and  Moravians.  They  held  their 
property  in  common.  Their  regulations  were  extremely  strict  and  severe. 
In  their  order,  industry,  neatness,  and  perfect  subordination,  they  resem- 
bled the  Shakers.  They  soon  erected  from  80  to  100  large  and  substantial 
buildings.  Their  lands  were  laid  off  with  the  most  perfect  regularity, 
and  were  as  right  angled  and  square  as  compass  could  make  ‘them. 
They  were  wonderfully  successful  here,  as  they  had  been  in  other  places, 
in  converting  a wilderness  into  a garden  in  a short  time.  They  had  even 
the  luxury  of  a botanic  garden  and  a green  house.  Their  great  house  of 
assembly,  with  its  wings  and  appendages,  was  nearly  100  feet  square. 
Here  they  lived,  and  labored  in  common,  and  in  profound  peace.  But 
from  some  cause,  their  eyes  were  turned  from  the  rich  fields  and  the  wide 
prairies,  and  the  more  southern  and  temperate  climate  of  the  Wabash 
towards  Beaver  Creek,  the  place  where  they  had  first  settled.  While 
they  were  under  the  influence  of  these  yearnings,  the  leader  of  a new 
sect  came  upon  them.  This  was  no  other  than  Robert  Owen  of  New 
Lanark,  in  Scotland,  a professed  philosopher  of  a new  school,  who  advo- 
cated new  principles,  and  took  new  views  of  society.  Redenominated 
his  theory,  ‘The  Social  System.’  He  was  opulent,  and  disposed  to  make 
a grand  experiment  of  his  principles  on  the  prairies  of  the  Wabash,  and 


380 


INDIANA. 


purchased  the  land  and  village  of  Mr.  Rapp,  for  190,000  dollars.  In  a 
short  time  there  were  admitted  to  the  new  establishment  from  seven  to 
eight  hundred  persons.  They  danced  all  together,  one  night  in  every  week, 
and  had  a concert  of  music  in  another.  The  Sabbath  was  occupied  in  the 
delivery  and  hearing  of  philosophical  lectures.  Two  of  Mr.  Owen’s  sons, 
and  Mr.  M’Clure  joined  him  from  Scotland . The  society  at  New  Harmony, 
as  the  place  was  called,  excited  a great  deal  of  remark  in  every  part  of  the 
United  States.  Great  numbers  of  distinguished  men  in  all  the  walks  of 
life  wrote  to  the  society,  making  enquiries,  respecting  its  prospects,  and 
rules;  and  expressing  a desire,  at  some  future  time  to  join  it.  Mr.  Owen 
remained  at  New  Harmony,  little  more  than  a year ; in  which  time  he  made  a 
voyage  to  Europe.  The  fourth  of  July,  1826,  he  promulgated  his  famous 
declaration  of 4 mental  independence.’  The  society  had  begun  to  moulder 
before  this  time.  He  has  left  New  Harmony,  and  4 the  social  system’  is 
abandoned.  It  is  to  be  hoped,  that  this  beautiful  village,  which  has  been 
the  theatre  of  such  singular  and  opposite  experiments,  will  again  flourish. 

Brookville  is  a decaying  village,  in  the  forks  of  the  beautiful  White 
Water.  It  was  noted  for  the  number  and  enterprize  of  its  mechanics  and 
manufacturers.  A number  of  its  public  and  private  buildings  are  of  brick, 
and  respectable.  It  has  grist  mills,  saw  mills,  carding  machines,  a 
printing  office  and  numbers  of  the  common  mechanic  shops,  where  the 
usual  articles  of  city  manufacture  are  made. 

The  surrounding  country  is  finely  timbered  and  watered.  The  soil  is 
rich  and  productive;  and  has  acquired  reputation  for  the  excellence  of  its 
tobacco.  From  some  cause,  notwithstanding  all  these  advantages,  it  has 
declined.  The  number  of  houses  exceeds  one  hundred. 

Harrison  is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  White  Water,  eight  miles 
from  its  mouth,  eighteen  north-east  of  Brookville,  and  in  the  centre  of 
an  excellent  body  of  land.  The  village  is  divided  between  the  jurisdic- 
tion of  Ohio  and  Indiana.  In  the  rich  and  extensive  bottoms,  that 
surround  this  village,  are  found  great  numbers  of  Indian  mounds.  They 
contain  quantities  of  human  bones,  in  all  stages  of  decay.  Indian  axes, 
vases,  and  implements  of  war  and  domestic  use,  abound  in  them.  In 
the  bottom  of  most  of  them  are  found  brands,  coal  and  ashes ; indications, 
from  which  antiquarians  have  inferred,  that  they  were  places ‘of  sacrifice, 
and  that  the  victims  were  human. 

Richmond  is  a thriving  town  of  1,500  inhabitants. 

Indianapolis  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  White  River,  in  the  centre 
of  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  fertile  bodies  of  land  in  the  western 
world ; nearly  central  to  the  state,  and  at  a point  accessible  by  steam  boats, 
in  common  stages  of  the  Wabash.  No  river  in  America  according  to  its 
size  and  extent,  waters  greater  bodies  of  fertile  land,  than  White  River. 


INDIANA. 


381 


The  country  is  settling  about  this  town  with  unexampled  rapidity.  But 
a few  years  since,  it  was  a solid  and  deep  forest,  where  the  surprised 
traveller  now  sees  the  buildings  of  a metropolis,  compact  streets  and  squares 
of  brick  buildings,  respectable  public  buildings,  manufactories,  mechanic 
shops,  printing  offices,  business  and  bustle.  Such  is  the  present  aspect 
of  Indianapolis,  which  contains  two  hundred  houses,  and  1,200  inhabit- 
ants. It  will,  probably,  become  one  of  the  largest  towns  between 
Cincinnati  and  the  Mississippi. 

In  the  recently  settled  parts  of  the  state,  have  sprung  up  a number  of 
new  towns,  with  compact  streets  and  handsome  houses,  within  four  or 
five  years.  The  most  considerable  of  these  are  Logansport,  Terre  Haute, 
Rockville,  Crawfords ville,  and  La  Fayette.  This  last  town  is  now  the 
head  of  navigation  on  the  Wabash.  At  the  point  designated  by  the 
commissioners  for  the  termination  of  the  Wabash  and  Erie  canal,  66  miles 
below  La  Fayette,  is  the  famous  battle  ground  of  Tippicanoe  at  the  mouth 
of  that  river.  It  exhibits  the  most  beautiful  scenery.  The  breast-works 
of  the  American  army  are  still  visible.  The  hottest  point  of  the  fight  is 
indicated  by  the  masses  of  bones  of  the  horses  that  were  killed.  General 
Tipton,  who  at  the  age  of  eighteen  years  distinguished  himself  in  that 
battle,  is  the  present  owner  of  the  site,  and  has  enclosed  it  with  a view  to 
consecrating  the  memory  of  that  event. 

The  increase  of  population  in  this  state,  since  the  year  1820,  has  been 
unexampled,  even  in  the  annals  of  western  progress.  The  inhabitants 
then  amounted  to  147,000.  The  census  of  1830  gives  it  344,000  This 
census  did  not  include  any  but  resident  persons.  Great  numbers  of 
immigrants  were  in  the  state  at  the  time  it  was  taken,  and  were  not 
included  in  it.  The  tide  of  immigration  was  stronger  at  no  period,  than 
last  autumn.  The  number  of  inhabitants  at  this  time,  exceeds  400,000. 

The  principal  influx  of  this  population  has  been  to  the  country  on  the 
Upper  Wabash,  forming  the  counties  of  Warren,  Fountain,  Tippicanoe, 
Madison,  Hancock,  Clay,  Caroll,  Cass,  Clinton,  and  Boone.  These 
counties  send  four  Senators  and  eight  representatives  to  the  General 
Assembly.  The  inhabitants  are  distinguished  for  their  progress  in  making 
farms  and  towns,  and  their  intelligence  and  respectability.  Nearly  half 
the  counties  have  been  constituted  within  the  last  five  years. 

The  soil  of  the  Upper  Wabash  is  of  the  richest  quality,  being  black, 
deep,  friable  and  extremely  productive.  Over  the  whole  extent  we  meet 
with  fertile  and  beautifully  undulating  prairies.  Unlike  those  farther 
west,  some  of  them  have  small  hills  of  considerable  elevation  with 
groves  on  their  summits,  presenting  delightful  prospects  to  the  eye. 
The  productiveness  of  these  prairies  is  surprising.  The  face  of  the 
country  is  undergoing  an  astonishing  change,  which  seems  the  work  of 


382 


INDIANA. 


enchantment.  Three  or  four  years  ago  it  had  only  been  trodden  by 
savages  or  the  animals  of  the  wilderness.  We  now  see  not  only 
luxuriant  forests,  numerous  flocks,  herds  and  commencing  orchards,  and 
gardens,  but  neat  and* substantial  brick  houses. 

In  consequence  of  the  great  change  produced  by  the  opening  of  the 
New  York  canal,  and  the  canal  connecting  Lake  Erie  with  Ontario,  the 
north  front  of  Indiana  along  Lake  Michigan,  which,  a few  years  since, 
was  regarded  as  a kind  of  terminating  point  of  habitancy  in  the  desert, 
has  begun  to  be  viewed  as  a maratime  shore,  and  the  most  important  front 
of  the  state. 

Navigable  waters.  Their  extent  has  been  rated  at  2,500  miles.  We 
have  given  an  estimate  of  twice  that  amount.  When  we  take  into  view 
the  whole  northern  lakes,  and  all  their  shores,  traversed  at  present  by 
steam  boats,  this  estimate  will  be  found  moderate.  The  boatable 
waters,  beside  the  lakes,  consist  of  the  long  extent  of  the  Ohio,  washing 
the  southern  shore,  the  Wabash  and  its  waters,  Petoka,  Blue  River,  St. 
Joseph,  White  Water,  Rocky  River,  Pomme,  Massisineway,  Eel  River, 
Little  River,  Panther  Creek,  Elkhorn,  St.  Joseph  of  Lake  Michigan,  Great 
and  Little  Kenomic,  Chemin,  Chicago,  Kickapoo,  Theakiki,  part  of  Fox, 
Plein  and  Illinois.  The  distance  from  Chicago,  to  New  Orleans  is  1680, 
and  to  Buffalo  800  miles. 

In  regard  to  the  facility  of  communication  between  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi,  and  the  lakes,  we  have  already  noted  the  great  number  of  lakes 
and  ponds,  that  from  one  extremity  communicate  with  those  rivers;  and 
from  the  other,  with  Lake  Erie  and  Michigan.  More  than  20  of  these 
portages  have  been  practised.  Among  the  first,  we  name  that  between 
St.  Marys,  and  Little  River  of  the  Wabash.  By  this  the  French  formerly 
communicated  with  their  posts  on  the  Wabash.  The  second  is  a short 
portage,  between  Chicago  and  the  Kickapoo  of  the  Illinois.  In  high 
spring  waters,  boats  pass  by  this  route  from  the  lake  to  the  river.  The 
third  is  the  distance  of  a league  between  the  north  branch  of  the  Big 
Miami,  and  the  south  branch  of  the  Maumee.  By  this  communication 
canoes  have  passed  from  the  Ohio  to  Lake  Erie.  Another  communication 
is  a kind  of  natural  canal  at  Loramier’s  Fort,  connecting  the  Miami  and 
the  Maumee,  which  is  practicable  for  boats  in  high  waters.  There  is 
another  similar  connection  between  Hudson  River  of  Lake  Erie,  and 
Grand  River  of  Lake  Michigan.  The  Muskingum  of  the  Ohio  commu- 
nicates in  spring  floods' with  the  Cuyahoga  of  Lake  Erie.  There  is  a 
portage  of  four  miles,  between  the  St.  Joseph  of  Lake  Michigan,  and 
Theakiki,  of  two  miles  between  the  Theakiki  and  the  great  Kenomic, 
of  half  a mile  between  the  Great  and  Little  Kenomic;  of  three  miles 
between  Chicago  and  Plein,  and  numerous  other  communications 


INDIANA. 


383 


between  the  livers  of  the  Wabash  and  Lake  Michigan,  too  numerous  to 
mention. 

The  river  Chicago  empties  into  Lake  Michigan,  near  the  territorial 
limits  of  Indiana  and  Illinois.  Its  harbor  is  the  south-western  extremity 
of  that  lake.  Fort  Dearborn,  where  the  bloody  tragedy  of  September, 
1815,  was  enacted  by  the  Indians,  in  the  massacre  of  its  garrison,  was, 
until  recently,  a military  post  of  the  United  States.  It  has  lately  been 
abandoned.  At  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  the  only  harbor  on  the  lake 
for  a great  distance;  and  when  ever  a canal  shall  unite  the  Illinois  with 
the  lake,  it  will  become  a place  of  great  commercial  importance. 

Indians.  Until  recently,  they  owned  the  greater  part  of  the  fertile 
lands  in  this  state.  Most  of  these  lands  have  lately  been  purchased  of 
them  by  treaty.  The  names  of  the  tribes,  as  they  used  to  be,  convey  little 
idea  of  their  present  position  and  numbers.  Great  numbers  have 
emigrated  far  to  the  west,  on  White  River  and  Arkansas.  Others  have 
strayed  into  Canada,  or  towards  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and  their 
deserted  places  are  rapidly  filling  with  the  habitations  of  white  men. 
Their  names,  as  they  used  to  be,  are  Mascontins,  Piankashaws,  Kicka- 
poos,  Delawares,  Miamies,  Shawnees,  Weeas,  Ouitanons,  Eel  Rivers  and 
Pottawattomies.  Their  present  numbers  can  not  exceed  four  or  five 
thousand  souls.  It  is  an  unquestionable  evidence  of  the  fertility  of  the 
country  in  the  interior  of  Indiana,  that  it  was  once  the  seat  of  the  most 
dense  Indian  population  in  the  western  country.  The  Indians  invariably 
fixed  in  greatest  numbers,  where  the  soil  was  fertile,  the  country  healthy, 
and  the  means  of  transport  on  water  courses  easy  and  extensive.  Such 
countries  abounded  in  fish  and  game,  and  such  was  the  country  in 
question.  The  Indians  in  this  country  were  invaded,  in  1791,  by  Gen. 
Wilkinson.  He  destroyed  their  principal  town.  It  contained  120  houses, 
eighty  of  which  were  roofed  with  shingles.  The  gardens  and  improve- 
ments about  it  were  delightful.  There  was  a tavern  with  cellars,  bar, 
public  and  private  rooms ; and  the  whole  indicated  no  small  degree  of 
order  and  civilization.  The  prophet’s  town,  destroyed  by  Gen.  Harrison 
in  November,  1811,  was  a considerable  place.  The  Miamies  possess  a 
reservation  near  Logan’s  Fort,  of  36  miles  square  of  land,  of  the  finest 
quality.  Their  numbers  are  1,150.  Beside  their  rich  lands,  they  have 
an  annuity  of 25,000  dollars,  which,  with  their  possessions,  render  them 
wealthy.  Near  the  Kankakee  Ponds  north  of  the  Wabash,  reside  the 
Pottawattomies,  who  are  more  numerous  than  the  Miamies.  These 
Indians,  in  1826  ceded  lands  to  the  United  States,  for  the  purpose  of 
causing  a road  to  be  constructed  from  Lake  Michigan  by  way  of  Indian- 
apolis to  the  Ohio.  Congress  confirmed  the  grant,  and  the  road  has 
been  laid  out,  and  rendered  passable. 


384 


INDIANA. 


Game  and  Fish.  The  interior  and  northern  parts  of*  this 'state  are 
abundantly  stocked  with  game.  Bears,  and  especially  deer,  are  common. 
Wild  turkeys  have  been  supposed  by  some,  to  abound  as  much  on  the 
waters  of  White  River,  as  they  do  in  the  settled  regions.  Hundreds  are 
sometimes  driven  from  one  corn  field.  Prairie  hens,  partridges  and 
grouse  abound  on  the  prairies,  and  in  some  seasons,  wild  pigeons  are  seen 
here  in  countless  numbers.  Where  they  roost,  the  limbs  of  the  trees  are 
broken  off  in  all  directions  by  their  numbers.  Venomous  snakes  and 
noxious  reptiles  are  sometimes  seen,  especially  in  the. vicinity  of  ledges  of 
rocks.  The  rattle  snake  and  the  copper  head  are  the  most  numerous 
and  dangerous.  The  streams,  and  especially  those  that  communicate 
with  Lake  Michigan,  are  abundant  in  fish  of  the  best  qualities.-  The 
number  and  excellence  of  the  fish,  and  the  ease,  with  which  they  are  taken, 
are  circumstances  of  real  importance  and  advantage  to  the  first  settlers, 
and  help  to  sustain  them,  until  they  are  enabled  to  subsist  by  the  avails 
of  cultivation. 

Minerals  and  Fossils.  There  are  salt  springs  in  different  parts  of  the 
state.  We  do  not  know,  that  any  of  them  are  worked  to  much  extent. 
The  salt  has  hitherto  been  chiefly  brought  from  the  United  States’  Saline, 
back  of  Shawneetown,  or  from  the  Salines  of  Kenhawa.  Stone  coal  of 
the  best  quality  is  found  in  various  places.  Native  copper  has  been 
discovered  in  small  masses,  in  the  northern  parts  of  the  state.  Iron  ore 
is  also  found  in  some  places.  But  in  general  it  is  a country  too  level  to 
be  a mineral  one.  Although  from  the  first  settlement  of  the  country,  it 
has  been  asserted,  that  there  is  a silver  mine  near  Ouitanon. 

Antiquities.  This  state  once  possessed  a numerous  Indian  population. 
Their  mounds,  sepulchres,  ruined  villages,  the  sward  of  blue  grass,  which 
indicates  in  times  nearer,  or  remote,  the  position  of  an  Indian  village, 
their  implements  of  war  and  agriculture,  dug  up  by  the  spade,  or  turned 
up  by  the  plough,  strike  us  on  all  sides,  as  we  travel  through  this  state. 
They  can  not  but  excite  deep  and  serious  thoughts  in  a reflecting  mind. 
French  traditions  relate,  that  an  exterminating  battle  took  place  in  a spot, 
which  is  now  designated  by  two  or  three  small  mounds,  near  where  Fort 
Harrison  now  stands.  The  battle  was  fought  between  the  Indians  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  of  the  Wabash.  The  prize  of  conquest  was  the  lands, 
which  were  adjacent  to  the  field  of  battle.  A thousand  warriors  fought 
on  each  side.  The  contest  commenced  with  the  sun,  and  was  fought  with 
all  the  barbarity  and  desperation  of  Indian  bravery.  The  Wabash 
warriors  were  victorious  with  seven  survivors ; and  the  vanquished  came 
off  with  only  five. 

Curiosities . Like  Alabama  and  Tennessee,  this  state  abounds  with 
subterranean  wonders,  in  the  form  of  caves.  Many  have  been  explored. 


INDIANA. 


385 


and  some  of  them  have  been  described.  One  of  them  is  extensively 
known  in  the  western  country  by  the  name  of 1 the  Epsom  salts  cave? 

It  is  not  very  far  from  Jeffersonville.  When  first  discovered,  the  salts 
were  represented  as  being  some  inches  deep  on  the  floor.  The  interior  of 
this  cave  possesses  the  usual  domes  and  chambers  of  extensive  caverns, 
through  which  the  visitant  gropes  a distance  of  a mile  and  a quarter  to  the 
* pillar,’  which  is  a splendid  column,  15  feet  in  diameter,  and  25  feet 
high,  regularly  reeded  from  top  to  bottom.  Near  it  are  smaller  pillars  of 
the  same  appearance. 

The  salt  in  question  is  sometimes  found  in  lumps  varying  from  one  to 
ten  pounds.  The  floor  and  walls  are  covered  with  it  in  the  form  of  a 
frost,  which  when  removed,  is  speedily  reproduced.  The  earth  yields 
from  four  to  20  pounds  to  the  bushel;  and  the  product  is  said  to  be  of  the 
best  quality.  Nitre  is  also  found  in  the  cave  in  great  abundance,  and 
sulphate  of  lime,  or  plaister  of  paris. 

Roads  and  Canals.  We  have  seen  that  the  state  has  laid  out  and 
rendered  passable  a road  from  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Ohio  The 
national  road  is  laid  out,  and  some  part  of  it  made  through  the  state  from 
east  to  west,  passing  through  Indianopolis.  The  common  roads  are  in 
good  passable  condition  during  the  summer.  But  in  winter,  and 
especially  during  rainy  weather,  they  are  excessively  deep  and  heavy. 
Regular  ferries  are  now  established  across  the  the  rivers  at  all  the  import- 
ant points  of  travel  The  project  of  a rail  road  from  the  Ohio  to  Lake 
Michigan  has  been  discussed.  None  of  the  western  states,  from  the 
the  configuration,  to  which  we  have  adverted,  possess  greater  facilities  of 
making  canals;  as  great  numbers  of  the  small  lakes  communicate  at 
present  with  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  from  one  extremity,  and  with  Lake 
Michigan  from  the  other,  and  require  only,  that  the  communications 
should  be  deepened  to  become  natural  canals. 

A canal  has  been  projected  by  the  state,  after  a long  discussion  of 
two  or  three  legislative  sessions,  entitled  the  Wabash  and  Erie  Canal.  It 
is  intended  to  connect  by  the  Big  Miami,  and  the  Dayton  Canal,  with 
Lake  Erie.  Funds  have  been  provided  for  making  it;  but,  owing  to 
some  division  of  opinion  respecting  the  comparative  utility  of  canals  and 
rail  roads,  the  excavation  has  not  yet  been  commenced. 

Seminaries.  Indiana  College  at  Bloomington,  commenced  in  1828. 
As  early  as  1804,  the  then  territorial  government  of  Indiana  incorporated 
what  was  called  the  university  of  Vincennes.  A brick  building  was 
erected,  and  the  university  figured  for  some  years  in  the  statutes  of 
legislation.  When  the  territory  became  a state,  a township  of  land  to  be 
selected  by  the  president  of  the  United  States,  was  appropriated  to  this 
institution,  in  addition  to  the  township  already  owned.  The  new  town- 

49 


386 


INDIANA. 


ship  was  selected  by  the  president,  near  Bloomington.  The  original 
title  of  the  college  was  changed,  and  the  brick  edifice  sold.  It  then  took 
the  name  of  Indiana  College.  In  1829  it  received  an  efficient  organiza- 
tion under  a learned  president,  with  two  professors  aud  a tutor.  The 
number  of  students  is  about  60.  The  seat  of  the  college  is  a delightful 
village  central  to  a healthful  and  fertile  country.  A thorough  classical 
education  is  imparted  at  an  expense  as  moderate,  as  in  any  other  similar 
seminary  in  the  union. 

Hanover  Academy  was  established  at  Hanover,  six  miles  below  Madison 
on  the  Ohio,  in  1827.  It  is  chiefly  intended  as  a Presbyterian  theological 
school,  and  is  under  the  care  of  the  Presbytery  of  Indiana.  It  has  an 
endowment  in  land,  and  the  system  of  manual  labor  is  contemplated.  It 
is  intended  that  the  expenses  of  board  and  tuition  shall  be  but  thirty 
dollars  a year.  It  has  22  students,  18  of  whom  are  preparing  for  the 
ministry.  Some  other  institutions  of  education  exist,  called  academies; 
and  high  schools  are  in  contemplation  in  different  parts  of  this  rapidly 
advancing  state. 

A historical  society  has  recently  been  formed,  the  object  of  which,  is  to 
investigate  the  antiquities  of  the  country,  and  preserve  the  materials  for 
the  annals  and  history  of  the  state.  A respectable  library  has  already 
been  collected,  and  the  society  bids  fair  to  be  efficient  in  furnishing 
documents  of  practical  utility  in  furthering  its  objects. 

That  spirit  of  regard  for  schools,  religious  societies  and  institutions, 
connected  with  them,  which  has  so  honorably  distinguished  the  commenc- 
ing legislation  of  Ohio,  has  displayed  itself  in  this  state.  There  are 
districts,  no  doubt,  where  people  have  but  just  made  beginnings,  and  are 
more  anxious  about  carrying  on  the  first  operations  of  making  a new 
establishment,  than  educating  their  children.  But  it  ought  to  be  recorded 
to  the  honor  of  the  people,  that  among  the  .first  public  works  in  an  incip- 
ient village,  is  a school  house,  and  among  the  first  associations,  that  for 
establishing  a school.  Schools  are  established  in  all  the  considerable  towns 
and  villages  in  the  state.  In  many  of  the  more  compact  there  is  a reading 
room,  and  a social  library.  The  spirit  of  enquiry,  resulting  from  our  free 
institutions,  is  pervading  the  country,  and  a thirst  for  all  kinds  of  infor- 
mation is  universal.  This  state  will  soon  take  a high  place  among  her 
sister  states,  in  point  of  population.  It  is  hoped  that  her  advance  in 
intellectual  improvement,  and  social  and  religious  institutions  will  be  in 
corresponding  proportion. 

Constitution  and  Government.  This  state  was  admitted  into  the  Union 
in  1816.  The  constitution  does  not  differ  essentially  from  that  of  the 
other  western  states.  Where  it  does  differ,  it  is  in  having  a more  popular 
form  than  the  rest.  The  governor  is  elected  for  three  years;  and  is 


INDIANA. 


387 


eligible  six  years  out  of  nine.  The  judiciary  is  composed  of  a supreme 
and  circuit  courts. 

The  judges  of  the  supreme  court  are  appointed  by  the  governor,  and 
have  appellate  jurisdiction.  The  circuit  courls  are  to  be  held  by  one 
judge  and  two  associates — the  former  to  be  appointed  by  the  legislature, 
and  the  latter  by  the  people ; all  to  be  held  for  the  term  of  seven  years. 
All  free  white  males,  of  twenty-one  years  and  upwards,  of  the  United 
States,  are  admitted  to  the  elective  franchise. 

History.  The  country  on  the  Wabash  was  early  visited  by  French 
traders,  or  hunters  from  Canada.  The  settlement  of  Vincennes,  dates 
back  as  far  as  1702.  The  first  settlement  was  composed  of  soldiers  of 
Louis  XIV.  They  were,  for  more  than  an  age  almost  separated  from  the 
rest  of  mankind;  and  had,  in  many  respects,  assimilated  with  the  savages, 
with  whom  they  intermarried.  In  the  time  of  the  American  revolution, 
they  manifested  a disposition  so  unequivocally  favorable  to  it,  that  the 
general  government  ceded  to  them  a tract  of  land  about  Vincennes,  at  the 
close  of  that  war.  The  sparse  population  in  this  then  wilderness,  suffered 
severely  from  the  savages,  until  the  peace,  which  Was  restored  by  the 
treaty  at  Greenville.  The  Indians  still  owned  the  greater  portion  of  the 
territorial  surface.  In  the  year  181 1,  in  consequence  of  their  depredations 
and  murders,  a military  force  was  sent  against  them;  and  they  were  defea- 
ted, and  compelled  to  sue  for  peace.  The  bloody  battle  of  Tippicanoe  has 
already  been  mentioned.  Since  the  peace  they  have  been  quiet,  and  have 
ceded  the  greater  part  of  their  lands  to  the  United  States.  In  1801,  Indi- 
ana was  erected  into  a territorial  government.  During  the  late  war  the 
tide  of  immigration  was  almost  completely  arrested.  Many  of  the  settle- 
ments were  broken  up  by  the  savages.  Immediately  on  the  termination 
of  that  war,  the  tide  set  strongly  again,  through  Ohio,  to  this  state;  and 
population  poured  in  upon  the  woods  and  prairies.  It  has  since  been 
filling  up  with  almost  unexampled  rapidity.  It  suffered  severely 
along  with  the  other  western  states  by  the  change  of  times,  that  ocurred 
after  the  close  of  the  war.  The  same  foolish,  or  iniquitous  system 
of  spurious  banks,  or  relief  lairs,  w as  adopted  here  as  in  the  state  farther 
west;  and  with  the  same  results.  The  bank  of  New  Lexington  was  a 
notorious  scheme  of  iniquity;  and  was  one  of  the  first  bubbles,  that  burst 
in  this  young  community.  Though  the  people  did  not  immediately  take 
warning,  they  were  among  the  first,  that  discarded  all  the  ridiculous 
temporizing  expedients  of  relief,  and  restored  a sound  circulation. 

If  we  could  prevent  a scenic  map  of  this  state, exhibiting  its  present  con- 
dition, it  would  present  us  a gr  and  and  interesting  view  of  deep  forests, 
wide  and  flowering  prairies,  dotted  with  thousands  of  log  cabins;  and  in 
the  villages,  brick  houses  rising  beside  them.  We  should  see  chasms  cut 


388 


INDIANA. 


out  of  the  forests  in  all  directions.  We  should  note  thousands  of  dead 
trees  surrounding  the  incipient  establishments.  On  the  edges  of  the  prai- 
ries, we  should  remark  cabins,  or  houses,  sending  up  their  smokes.  We 
should  see  vast  droves  of  cattle,  ruminating  in  the  vicinity  of  these  estab- 
lishments in  the  shade.  There  would  be  a singular  blending  of  nature 
and  art;  and  to  give  interest  to  the  scene,  the  bark  hovels  of  the  Indians, 
in  many  places,  would  remain  intermixed  with  the  habitations  of  the 
whites.  But  the  most  pleasing  part  of  the  picture  would  be  to  see  inde- 
pendent and  respectable  yeoman  presiding  over  these  great  changes.  The 
young  children  would  be  seen  playing  about  the  rustic  establishments; 
full  fed  and  happy,  sure  presages  of  the  numbers , healthfulness  and  inde- 
pendence of  the  coming  generation. 

The  revenue  of  the  state  for  1831  is  103,432  dollars;  the  expenditure 
is  37,765.  Deduct  the  canal  and  Indianopolis  fund  28,164 ; and  there 
will  remain  a balance  in  the  treasury  in  favor  of  the  state.. 


OHIO 


Length,  210  miles.  Mean  breadth,  200  miles,  containing  40,000 
square  miles,  and  25,000,000  acres.  Between  38°  30'  and  41°  19'  N. 
latitude;  and  between  3° 31'  and  7°  41'  West  from  Washington.  Bounded 
on  the  North  by  the  territory  of  Michigan,  and  Lake  Erie;  East  by 
Pennsylvania,  South-east  by  Virginia,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the 
Ohio;  South  by  the  Ohio,  which  separates  it  from  Virginia  and  Kentucky; 
and  West  by  Indiana, 


Counties . 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 
County  Towns . 

Distances  from  Columbus . 

Adams, 

West  Union, 

101  miles. 

Allen, 

Wassahkonnetta, 

110 

Ashtabula, 

Jefferson, 

191 

Athens, 

Athens, 

73 

Belmont, 

St.  Clairsville, 

124 

Brown, 

Georgetown, 

104 

Butler, 

Hamilton, 

101 

Champaign, 

Urbana, 

50 

Clarke, 

, Springfield, 

43 

Clermont, 

Batavia, 

109 

Clinton, 

Wilmington, 

67 

Columbiana, 

NewXisbon, 

152 

Coshocton, 

Coshocton, 

84 

Crawford, 

Bu  cyrus, 

69 

Cuyahoga, 

Cleaveland, 

138 

Drake, 

Greenville, 

103 

Delaware, 

Delaware, 

23 

Fairfield, 

Lancaster, 

28 

OHIO. 


Fayette, 

Washington,  C.  H, 

4& 

Franklin, 

Columbus, 

Gallia, 

Galliopolis, 

108 

Geauga, 

Claridon, 

157 

Greene> 

Xenia, 

57 

Guernsey, 

Cambridge, 

S3 

Hamilton, 

Cincinnati, 

112 

Hancock, 

Findlay, 

114 

Hardin, 

Hardy, 

66 

Harrison, 

Cadiz, 

124 

Henry, 

Damascus, 

161 

Highland, 

Hillsboro, 

74 

Hocking, 

Logan, 

47 

Holmes, 

Millersburgh, 

80 

Huron, 

Norwalk, 

113 

Jackson, 

Jackson,  C.  H. 

74 

Jefferson, 

Steubenville, 

149 

Knox, 

Mount  Vernon, 

45 

Lawrence, 

Burlington, 

135 

Licking, 

Newark, 

S4 

Logan, 

Bellefontaine,. 

62 

Lorain, 

Elysia, 

130 

Madison, 

London, 

27 

Marion, 

Marion, 

47 

Medina, 

Medina,  C.  IL 

111 

Meigs, 

Chester, 

94 

Mercer 

Saint  Mary’s, 

111 

Miami, 

Troy, 

78 

Monroe, 

Woodsfield, 

140 

Montgomery, 

Dayton, 

66 

Morgan, 

McConnelsville', 

70 

Muskingum, 

Zanesville, 

59 

Paulding,- 

Perry, 

Somerset, 

46 

Pickaway, 

Circleville, 

26 

Pike, 

Piketon, 

65 

Portage, 

Ravenna, 

127 

Preble, 

Eaton, 

92 

Putnam, 

Sugar  Grove, 

143 

Richland, 

Mansfield, 

71 

Ross, 

Chillicothe, 

45 

Sandusky* 

Lower  Sandusky', 

103 

•OHIO. 


391 


Scioto, 

Portsmouth, 

91 

Seneca, 

Tiffin, 

85 

Shelby, 

Sidney, 

86 

Stark, 

Canton, 

116 

Trumbull, 

Warren, 

157 

Tuscarawas, 

New  Philadelphia, 

107 

Union, 

Marysville, 

37 

Van  Wert, 

Wiltshire, 

146 

Warren, 

Lebanon, 

83 

Washington, 

Marietta, 

108 

Wayne, 

W ooster. 

86 

Williams, 

Defiance, 

175 

Wood, 

Perrysburgh, 

135 

The  census  of 

1830,  gives  the  population 

of  this  state  as  follows: 

whites,  928,093.  Other  persons;  9,586.  Total,  937,679. 

Face  of  the  country.  There  is,  probably,  no  where  in  the  world  a body 
of  land,  of  the  same  extent,  of  which  a greater  proportion  is  susceptible 
of  cultivation.  It  may  be  considered  a surface  of  table  land,  sloping  in 
one  direction  towards  the  Ohio,  and  in  the  other,  towards  Lake  Erie.  The 
northern  belt  has  great  tracts  of  wet  and  marshy  soil.  They  are,  however, 
excellent,  and  in  positions  that  render  them  easy  to  be  drained.  They 
are  covered  with  forests,  and  when  cleared,  and  drained,  will  not  make 
the  least  valuable  parts  of  the  state.  There  are  extensive  bodies  of  lands 
heavily  timbered  in  a state  of  nature,  which  are  as  level  as  prairies.  The 
most  fertile  part  of  the  state  is  between  the  two  Miamies.  On  the  upper 
courses  of  the  Miamies,  Muskingum  and  Scioto,  are  rich  and  extensive 
prairies,  divided  into  wet  and  dry  prairies,  of  which  the  latter  only  are  at 
present  susceptible  of  cultivation.  The  forest  trees  are  the  same  as  in 
Kentucky  and  Indiana,  except,  that  the  peccan  tree,  which  is  common  on 
the  waters  of  the  Wabash,  is  not  often  found  here.  The  forests  are  deep,  but 
in  the  richest  soils,  the  trees  are  rather  distinguishable  for  their  straight- 
ness, than  their  size..  A considerable  part  of  the  eastern  and  south- 
eastern divisions  is  hilly;  in  some  places  rising  into  fine  cultivable 
swells;  and  in  other  places  into  hills,  too  broken  and  precipitous  to  admit 
cultivation.  The  most  marshy  parts  are  found  on  the  table  lands,  the 
highest  in  the  state.  But  nine-tenths  of  the  surface  are  suscep- 
tible of  cultivation,  and  are  already,  or  are  rapidly  becoming  a thickly 
settled  country  of  moderate  sized  freeholds.  One  remark  may  convey  a 
general  idea  of  the  forest.  It  is,  as  in  Indiana  and  Illinois,  composed 
almost  entirely  of  deciduous  trees,  with  few  evergreens,  or  terebinthine 
trees,  if  we  except  some  few  cypress  trees.  On  its  whole  wide  surface, 
is  scarcely  any  land  so  hilly,  sterile,  or  marshy,  as,  with  moderate  labor, 


392 


OHIO. 


may  not  be  subdued,  drained  and  cultivated.  The  whole  region  seems  to 
have  invited  a hardy  and  numerous  body  of  freeholders  to  select  themselves 
moderate,  and  nearly  equal  sized  farms,  and  to  intersperse  them  over  its 
surface.  In  respect  to  the  smallness  of  the  farms,  the  number,  equality, 
and  compactness  of  the  population,  not  confined,  as  farther  west,  to 
the  water  courses,  but  diffused  over  the  whole  state,  it  compares  very 
accurately  with  New  England. 

To  an  eye  that  could  contemplate  the  whole  region  from  an  elevated 
point,  it  would  even  yet  exhibit  a great  proportion  of  unbroken  forest, 
only  here  and  there  chequered  with  farms.  Yet  in  the  county 
towns,  and  better  settled  districts,  any  spectacle,  that  collects  the  multi- 
tude, a training,  an  ordination,  an  election,  or  the  commencement  of  any 
great  public  work,  causes  a rush  from  the  woods  and  the  forests,  which, 
like  the  tenanted  trees  of  the  poets  in  the  olden  time,  seem  to  have  given 
birth  for  the  occasion  to  crowds  of  men,  women  and  children,  pouring 
towards  the  point  of  attraction.  There  are  vast  tracts  of  country  that 
are  actually  alluvial,  and  in  fact  the  greater  part  has  an  alluvial  aspect,  as 
though  it  had  not  long  since  emerged  from  the  waters. 

It  has  been  asserted,  and  commonly  believed,  that  springs  dry  up,  and 
fail,  as  a new  country  becomes  settled. 

Many  of  the  oldest  and  most  intelligent  settlers,  resolutely  deny  the 
assertion,  and  affirm  the  direct  contrary ; declaring,  that  the  streams  in 
general  are  more  flush  in  the  cleared  and  settled  country,  than  they  were 
when  it  was  an  unbroken  forest.  In  proof,  they  point  out  many  streams, 
which  then  became  dry  in  summer,  and  now  yield  sufficient  water  to  turn 
mills,  through  the  season.  This  is  one  of  those  disputable,  points  which 
is  apt  to  be  settled  differently  according  to  the  experience  and  opinions  of 
the  party.  It  certainly  involves  one  of  the  most  interesting  questions  in 
relation  to  the  influence  of  cultivation  upon  climate,  a question  which 
ought  to  have  been  more  elucidated  by  the  settling  of  the  western  country, 
than  any  other;  but  which  has  hitherto  been  discussed  in  a desultory  and 
unsatisfying  manner.  Forests  are  supposed  to  condense  vapors,  and 
attract  clouds.  Clearing  them  away  gives  more  free  scope  to  the  winds, 
and  tends  to  equalize  atmospheric  action.  Cultivation  renders  the 
surface  of  the  soil  more  compact,  and  retentive  of  moisture;  and  we 
incline  to  the  opinion,  that  the  western  ’streams  are  fuller  and  more 
lasting,  since  the  cutting  down  of  the  forests,  and  that  the  Ohio  and 
Mississippi  carry  more  water,  than  formerly.  But  the  experience  of 
almost  every  old  settler  warrants  the  fact,  that  innumerable  springs  have 
failed  since  the  cutting  down  of  the  forests,  that  shaded  the  hills,  whence 
they  sprung.  This  partial  result  may,  however,  be  more  than  counter- 


OHIO. 


393 


balanced  by  a general  change  in  atmospheric  action,  consequent  upon 
opening  vast  surfaces  of  the  forest  to  the  influence  of  the  sun  and  air. 

The  forest  of  this  state  is  generally  deep  and  heavy.  The  prevalent 
kinds  of  trees  are,  the  different  species  of  oak,  white,  red  and  black,  burr 
and  overcup,*  three  or  four  species  of  ash,  white,  blue  and  black;  yellow 
and  white  poplar;  all  the  different  species  of  hickories,  especially  black 
and  white  walnut ; three  species  of  elm,  hackberry,  buck-eye,  linn,  and 
coffee  tree.  White  maple  is  common,  and  sugar  maple  of  great  beauty, 
almost  universal.  Beech,  however,  is  the  most  common  timber.  The 
undergrowth  is  spicebush,  dogwood,  iron  wood,  horn  beam,  black  haw, 
pawpaw,  different  species  of  thorn,  and  wild  plum. 

Unimproved  land  rates  from  two  to  eight  dollars  per  acre,  according 
to  situation  and  quality ; improved  land,  from  five  to  twenty  dollars, 
according  to  the  improvement,  situation  and  quality. 

Agricultural  productions.  Every  production  common  to  the  climate 
is  raised  here  in  great  abundance.  Without  having  the  appearance  of  be» 
ing  as  rich,  as  the  lands  in  some  parts  of  Illinois  and  Missouri,  the  soil,  in 
this  part  of  the  Mississippi  valley,  is  found  by  experiment  to  be  remarka- 
bly productive.  To  be  able  to  judge  of  the  extent  and  power  of  vegeta- 
tion, one  must  reside  in  the  state  through  the  summer,  and  observe  with 
what  luxuriance  and  rapidity  the  vegetable  creation  is  pushed  on,  how 
rapidly  the  vines,  grain,  and  fruits  grow,  and  what  a depth  of  verdure  the 
forest  assumes.  Indian  com  is  the  staple  of  the  grains,  and  is  no  where 
raised  more  easily,  or  in  greater  abundance.  On  rich  alluvial  soils  110 
bushels  have  been  produced  from  an  acre;  though  fifty  may  be  consider- 
ed an  average  crop.  The  state  generally  has  a fine  soil  for  wheat.  Rye, 
barley,  oats,  spelts,  buckwheat,  and  all  the  grains  are  raised  in  great 
abundance  and  perfection.  Melons,  squashes,  pumpkins,  the  pulses,  gar- 
den vegetables,  both  bulbous  and  tap  rooted,  as  potatoes,  onions,  beets,  car- 
rots, parsnips,  and  generally  garden  and  culinary  vegetables  are  raised  in 
great  perfection.  The  soil,  being  more  stiff,  clayey,  and  fitted  to  retain 
moisture,  than  the  soils  farther  west,  makes  the  best  gardens.  We  have 
no  where  seen  so  fine  asparagus  in  the  west,  as  in  the  markets  of  this 
state.  Fruits  of  all  kinds  are  raised  in  the  greatest  profusion;  and  apples 
are  as  plenty  in  the  cultivated  parts  of  the  state,  as  in  any  part  of  the 
Atlantic  country.  The  markets  are  amply  supplied  with  pears,  peaches? 
plums,  cherries,  gooseberries,  strawberries,  and  cultivated  grapes.  In  a 
few  years  this  state  will  take  place  of  any  in  the  Union,  in  the  abundance 
and  excellence  of  its  fruits  of  all  kinds.  From  the  fulness  and  richness 
of  the  clusters  of  cultivated  grapes,  it  is  clear,  that  this  ought  to  be  a 
country  of  vineyards.  The  Germans  have  already  made  a few  establish- 

50 


394 


OHIO, 


ments  of  the  kind,  with  entire  success.  Apricots,  nectarines,  and  quinces* 
succeed;  and  this  state  is  the  appropriate  empire  of  Pomona.  Re- 
cently, tobacco  has  been  added  to  the  articles  cultivated.  The  quality 
and  flavor  are  such  as  to  warrant  the  expectation,  that  it  will  shortly  be  a 
principal  article  of  export.  Yellow  tobacco,  which  bears  a price  so  much 
higher,  than  any  other  kind,  has  been  found  to  prosper  remarkably.  Hemp 
is  an  article  of  cultivation  in  some  parts  of  the  state.  Agricultural  im- 
provement, however,  proceeds  with  slow  pace.  The  people,  generally, 
are  not  at  all  given  to  experiment;  and  continue  to  farm  in  the  old  and 
beaten  routine.  No  part  of  the  western  country  calls  more  imperiously 
for  agricultural  improvement;  for  this  state  begins  to  be  thickly  settled, 
and  naturally  to  invite  efforts  to  improve  the  cultivation.  Intelligent  and 
patriotic  men  are  making  great  exertions  to  introduce  the  cultivation  of 
the  vine,  and  mulberry;  that  wine  and  silk  may  be  added  to  the  articles  of 
production.  These  states,  that  are  so  far  from  a foreign  market,  and 
whose  bulky  articles  are  so  expensive  in  transportation,  ought  to  use  eve- 
ry exertion  to  introduce  a cultivation,  that  would  have  more  value  in  a 
smaller  compass.  Besides  trees,  shrubs,  and  vines,  this  state  produces  a 
great  abundance  of  indigenous  productions,  that  are  useful  in  medicine. 
We  may  mention  actea  racemosa , squaw  root,  Virginia  snake  root,  In- 
dian turnip,  ginseng,  which  is  dug  in  considerable  quantities,  as  an  arti- 
cle of  commerce,  Colombo,  lobelia,  valerian,  blood  root,  or  sanguinaria 
canadensis , and  various  other  herbaceous  medicinal  plants. 

Rivers.  Under  this  head  we  shall  describe  the  noble  and  beautiful 
river,  that  gives  name  to  the  state.  If  the  Mississippi  has  more  grandeur, 
the  Ohio  has  clearly  more  beauty.  If  the  Mississippi  rolls  along  its  angry 
and  sweeping  waters  with  more  majesty,  the  Ohio  far  exceeds  it  in  its  calm, 
unbroken  course,  which  seldom  endangers  the  boats  on  its  bosom,  except 
there  be  mismanagement,  or  storms.  No  river  in  the  world  rolls  for  the 
same  distance  such  an  uniform,  smooth  and  peaceful  current.  Its  bluffs 
and  bottoms  have  a singular  configuration  of  amenity,  or  grandeur. 
Sometimes  lofty  bluffs,  300  feet  in  height,  impend  the  river  and  cast  their 
grand  shadows  into  the  transparent  waters.  On  the  other  side  are  fine 
bottoms,  generally  above  the  overflow,  and  covered  with  beautiful  forest 
trees,  among  which  rises  the  venerable  sycamore,  the  king  of  the  forests; 
and  throws  its  white  arms  over  the  other  trees.  Whoever  has  descended 
this  noble  river  in  spring,  when  its  banks  are  full,  and  the  beautiful  red 
bud,  and  cornus  Florida , deck  the  declivities  of  the  bluffs,  and  are  seen 
at  intervals  in  the  bottoms;  or  in  the  autumn,  when  the  leaves  are  all 
turning  yellow,  will  readily  allow  the  appropriateness  of  the  French  name 
‘ la  belle  riviere.’ 


OHIO. 


395 


It  is  a river  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Alleghany  and  Monongahela 
at  Pittsburgh.  The  highest  sources  of  the  Alleghany  river,  are  in  Potter 
county,  Pennsylvania,  twelve  miles  to  the  eastward  of  Coudersport,  where 
they  interlock  with  the  head  waters  of  Genessee  river,  and  the  east  and 
west  branches  of  the  Susquehannah.  From  Coudersport  it  holds  a north- 
westwardly course  twenty  miles,  during  which  it  is  augmented  by  several 
streams,  and  then  enters  the  state  of  New  York.  Three  miles  above  the 
New  York  line,  it  receives  Orway  Creek,  a considerable  stream  from  the 
east,  and  five  miles  farther,  Oil  Creek  from  the  north ; and  then  passes  the 
settlement  of  Hamilton.  It  thence  holds  a west  course  fifteen  miles,  and 
receives  the  Tunuanguanta  Creek  from  the  south.  Here  it  bends  to  the 
north  seven  miles,  and  receives  Greatvalley  Creek  from  the  north.  It 
thence  bends  to  the  southwest,  and  after  a course  of  twenty-five  miles, 
passes  again  into  the  state  of  Pennsylvania,  and  winding  southwest  re- 
ceives the  Connewongo  from  the  north,  at  the  town  of  Warren.  It  thence 
holds  a west  course  seven  miles,  and  receives  the  waters  of  Brokenstraw 
Creek,  from  the  west.  It  thence  curves  southwest  thirty  miles,  and  re- 
ceives the  Teonista,  from  the  east.  Twenty  miles  farther  west,  it  receives 
Oil  Creek  from  the  north;  and  seven  miles  farther  French  Creek,  from  the 
north  west.  By  this  stream  it  has  a communication  with  Lake  Erie.  It 
now  assumes  a south-east  course,  and  thirty  miles  farther  receives  the 
waters  of  Toby’s  Creek,  an  important  stream,  which  extends  100  miles 
into  the  interior  of  Pennsylvania.  Retaining  the  same  course  thirty  miles, 
it  receives  Red  Bank  and  Mahoning  Creeks.  Passing  Kittanning  and 
Crooked  Creek,  twenty-four  miles  farther,  it  receives  the  waters  of  the 
Kiskiminitas. 

This  river  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Conemaugh  and  Loyalhanna 
Rivers,  which  rise  near  the  Alleghany  mountains,  100  miles  distant,, 
Below  this  point  the  Alleghany  continues  a south-west  course,  about 
thirty-five  miles,  and  reaches  Pittsburgh,  where  it  unites  with  the 
Monongahela.  The  former  river,  though  it  has  not  a volume  apparently 
wider  than  the  other,  is  by  far  the  most  important  tributary  of  the  Ohio. 
It  has  a swift  sweeping  and  rapid  current;  and  often  a rocky  bottom, 
whence  huge  rocks  rise  to  the  surface  of  the  water.  When  it  is  full  in 
the  spring,  flat  and  keel  boats  descend  it  rapidly,  and  without  danger. 
It  has  been  navigated  by  steam  boats;  but  is  one  of  the  most  difficult 
currents  to  stem,  which  that  kind  of  boats  has  yet  attempted  to  vanquish. 

Monongahela  River,  the  other  important  branch  of  the  Ohio,  rises  in 
Virginia,  seventy  miles  north-west  of  Morgantown.  Twelve  miles  north 
of  Morgantown,  it  passes  into  Pennsylvania;  and  a few  miles  farther 
receives  the  wraters  of  Cheat  River  from  the  east.  Seventy  miles  farther 
it  receives  the  waters  of  the  Youghiogeny  River,  or  as  it  is  commonly 


396 


OHIO, 


called  the  Yough,  the  most  important  branch  of  the  Monongahela^ 
rising  near  the  upper  waters  of  the  Potomac,  separated  only  by  a spur  of 
the  mountains.  From  the  western  declivity  of  these  mountains,  both 
this  and  the  main  river  receive  a great  accession  of  mountain  streams. 
The  united  stream  has  now  become  broad  and  majestic.  It  flows  in  a 
north-west  course  to  Pittsburgh,  and  where  it  unites  with  the  Alleghany, 
is  more  than  400  yards  wide.  The  Ohio  at  the  junction  is  something 
more  than  600  yards  wide,  and  immediately  assumes  that  broad,  placid 
and  beautiful  aspect,  which  it  maintains  to  its  junction  with  the  Mississip- 
pi. The  Monongahela  traverses  a rich  and  well  settled  country,  noted 
for  its  whiskey,  flour,  iron  and  manufactures.  The  banks  are  often  bold 
and  high  bluffs,  and  in  some  places  the  country  is  hilly.  In  good  stages 
of  the  water,  it  is  boatable  by  large  boats  100  miles  from  its  mouth. 
There  are  few  more  rural,  picturesqe,  and  delightful  tracts  of  country  in 
the  United  States,  than  that  on  this  river. 

The  Ohio,  from  its  commencement,  affords  most  delightful  prospects. 
Rivers  of  romantic  and  beautiful  character  come  in,  almost  at  equal 
distances,  as  lateral  canals.  Its  bottoms  are  of  extraordinary  depth  and 
fertility;  generally  high  and  dry,  and  for  the  most  part  healthy;  while  the 
configuration  of  the  country  on  the  banks  has  all  that  grandeur,  softness, 
or  variety,  still  changing  and  recurring  in  such  combinations,  as  are 
requisite  to  destroy  a monotonous  effect.  For  thirty  miles  below  Pitts- 
burgh its  course  is  north-west.  It  then  slowly  turns  to  the  west  south-west, 
and  pursues  that  general  direction  500  miles.  Thence  south-west  170 
miles.  Thence  westward  280  miles.  Thence  south-west  170  miles, 
through  that  low  and  swampy  country,  in  which  it  finds  the  Mississippi. 
Between  Pittsburgh  and  the  mouth,  it  is  diversified  with  100  considerable 
islands,  besides  a greater  number  of  tow-heads,  and  sand  bars,  which  in 
low  stages  of  the  water,  greatly  impede  navigation.  Some  of  these 
islands  are  of  exquisite  beauty,  and  afford  most  lovely  situations  for 
retired  farms.  The  passages  between  them,  and  the  sand  bars  at  their 
head  are  among  the  difficulties  of  the  navigation  of  this  river.  The  order 
of  the  entrance  of  the  creeks  and  rivers,  as  we  descend,  is  as  follows : 
Chartier’s  Creek,  4 miles  below  Pittsburgh,  from  the  south.  Big  Beaver, 
30  miles,  from  the  north.  Little  Beaver,  42  miles  below,  from  the  north. 
Mill  Creek,  43,  from  the  south.  Big  Yellow  Creek  54  miles,  from  the 
north.  Crookton’s  Run,  62,  from  the  north.  King’s  Creek,  66,  from 
the  south.  Wills’  Creek,  71,  from  the  north.  Harman’s  Creek,  72,  from 
the  south.  One  mile  below  this  creek  is  the  large  and  flourishing  town  of 
Steubenville.  Indian  Cross  Creek,  75  miles,  north.  Virginia  Cross 
Creek,  76  miles,  south.  Indian  Short  Creek,  87  miles.  Virginia  Short 
Creek,  opposite  on  the  south.  Wheeling  Creek,  96  miles,  south.  Just 


OHIO. 


397 


above  this  creek  is  the  commercial  and  important  town  of  Wheeling. 
McMahon’s  Creek,  south,  100  miles.  Little  Grave  Creek,  south,  108- 
Big  Grave  Creek,  north.  Fish  Creek,  south,  123.  Fishing  Creek, 
south,  137.  Stony  Creek,  north,  162.  Little  Muskingum,  north,  179. 
Muskingum,  north,  183.  At  the  mouth  of  this  river  is  the  considerable 
town  of  Marietta.  Little  Kenhawa,  south,  197.  Little  Hockhocking, 
north,  204.  Big  Hockhocking,  north,  210.  Shade  River,  north,  221. 
Little  Sandy,  south,  227.  Big  Sandy,  south,  231.  Great  Kenhawa, 
south,  283.  On  this  large  and  important  stream  are  the  most  extensive 
salt  works  in  the  western  country.  Little  Guyandotte,  south,  307.  Big 
Guyandotte,  south,  327.  Great  Sandy,  south,  341.  Little  Sandy, 
south,  364.  Little  Scioto,  north,  380.  Big  Scioto,  north,  390.  This 
is  a very  important  river  of  Ohio.  On  its  banks  are  extremely  rich  lands. 
The  political  metropolis,  Columbus,  is  situated  on  it.  A little  above  its 
mouth  is  the  considerable  village  of  Portsmouth.  The  great  Erie  Canal 
is  to  enter  the  Ohio,  near  the  mouth  of  this  river.  The  former  capital  of 
Ohio,  Chillicothe,  is  also  on  its  banks.  Turkey  Creek,  north,  395. 
Coneconeque,  south,  404.  Stout’s  Run,  north,  418.  Brush  Creek, 
south,  421.  Sycamore  Creek,  south,  424.  Crooked  Creek,  south,  444. 
Lime  Stone  Creek,  south,  452.  Just  below  this  creek  is  the  large  and 
important  town  of  Maysville,  one  of  the  oldest  and  most  accustomed 
landings  on  the  Ohio.  Eagle  Creek,  north,  462.  Straight  Creek,  north, 
468.  Bracken  Creek,  south,  472.  Bull  Skin  Creek,  north,  479.  Bear 
Creek,  north,  488.  Big  Indian  Creek,  north,  492.  Muddy  Creek,  north, 
503.  Little  Miami  River,  north,  516.  Crawfish  Creek,  north,  519. 
Deer  Creek,  north,  523.  Licking  River,  south,  524.  This  is  an  im- 
portant river  of  Kentucky,  entering  the  Ohio  between  Newport  and 
Covington,  and  opposite  Cincinnati.  Mill  Creek,  north,  526.  Great 
Miami,  north,  551.  Laughery’s  Creek,  north,  562.  Gunpowder  Creek, 
south,  575.  Big  Bone  Lick  Creek,  south,  583.  Kentucky  River,  south, 
629.  Six  miles  above  this,  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  Vevay,  and  the 
beautiful  Swiss  vineyards.  Little  Kentucky  River,  south,  628.  Bear 
Grass  Creek,  south,  706.  Just  below  this  creek  is  the  important  and 
commercial  town  of  Louisville,  and  the  only  considerable  impediment  in 
the  navigation  of  the  Ohio  from  its  commencement  to  its  mouth.  This 
impediment  is  a ledge  of  rocks,  extending  across  the  Ohio,  constituting  a 
considerable  extent  of  rapids,  called  ‘the  Falls  of  Ohio.’  A canal  round 
these  falls,  on  the  Kentucky  side  of  the  river,  a work  of  immense  mag- 
nitude and  utility,  is  completed.  Salt  River,  south , 730.  Falling  Spring, 
south,  751.  Indian,  or  Wyandot  Creek.,  north,  775.  Big  Blue  River, 
north,  792.  Hardin’s  Creek,  south,  818.  Anderson’s  River,  north,  851. 
Blackford  Creek,  south,  864.  Green  River,  south,  925.  This  is  an  im~ 


398 


OHIO. 


portant  river  of  Kentucky.  Pigeon  Creek,  north,  935.  Highland  Creek, 
south,  993.  Wabash,  north,  1,003.  This  is  a large,  beautiful,  and 
important  river  of  Indiana.  Saline  River,  north,  1,021.  Not  far  above 
this  creek  is  Shawneetown,  a considerable  village  of  Illinois.  Great 
quantities  of  salt  are  manufactured  on  this  creek.  Grand  Pierre  Creek, 
north,  1,049.  Cumberland  River,  south,  1,071.  This  is  a very  import- 
ant river  of  Tennessee  and  Kentucky.  Tennessee,  south,  1,084.  This 
is  by  far  the  largest,  and  most  important  tributary  of  the  Ohio.  It  waters 
considerable  extents  of  Alabama,  Tennessee  and  Kentucky.  Cash  River, 
north,  1,120.  Mouth  of  the  Ohio,  1,132. 

It  should  be  observed,  that  the  distances,  as  noted  by  the  present  steam 
boat  navigators,  make  the  whole  distance  from  Pittsburgh  to  the  mouth, 
fall  short  of  1,000  miles.  It  is  true,  the  distances  have  seemed  much 
shorter,  since  they  have  been  measured  by  the  rapid  course  of  the  steam 
boats.  But  we  apprehend,  when  measured  by  the  convex  side  of  the 
bends  of  the  river,  the  former  measurement  will  be  found  nearer  the  exact 
truth,  than  the  latter.  We  may  add,  that  we  have  not  included  in  the 
above  enumeration  more  than  half  the  number  of  breaks  through  the 
banks  of  the  Ohio,  by  the  entrance  of  creeks.  We  have  mentioned, 
however,  the  greater  number  of  those,  that  preserve  running  water 
through  the  summer.  Of  the  above,  the  following  are  important  rivers, 
and  all  navigable,  in  moderate  or  high  stages  of  water,  by  steam  boats 
for  considerable  distances,  viz:  Muskingum,  Great  Kenhawa,  Big- 

Sandy,  Scioto,  Great  Miami,  Kentucky,  Green,  Wabash,  Cumberland  and 
Tennessee.  The  three  last  are  important  in  the  order  of  their  standing. 
The  Ohio  at  Pittsburgh  is  600  yards  wide.  At  Cincinnati,  which  may 
be  considered  its  mean  width,  it  is  not  much  more.  Below  the  Cumber- 
land its  average  width  is  1,000  yards.  Its  valley  is  deep,  and  heavily 
timbered,  and  has  no  where  the  slightest  indication  of  prairie.  It 
varies  from  two  to  ten  miles  in  width.  It  is  bounded  in  its  whole  course 
by  bluffs,  sometimes  towering  sublimely  from  the  shores  of  the  river,  and 
sometimes  receding  two  or  three  miles.  Beyond  the  immediate  verge  of 
the  bottom  is  a singular  line  of  hills,  more  or  less  precipitous,  stretching 
from  five  to  ten  miles  from  the  banks.  They  are  known  on  the  Ohio  by 
the  familiar  appellation  of  the  ‘Ohio  hills.’  Different  estimates  have  been 
made  of  the  rapidity  of  its  current.  This  rapidity  being  continually 
varying,  it  would  be  difficult  to  assign  any  very  exact  estimate.  It  is 
found,  according  to  the  different  stages' of  the  water,  to  vary  between  one 
and  three  miles.  In  the  lowest  stages  of  the  water  in  the  autumn,  a 
floating  substance  would,  probably,  not  advance  a mile  an  hour.  It  is 
subject  to  extreme  elevations  and  depressions.  The  average  range 
between  high  and  low  water,  is  fifty  feet.  Its  lowest  stage  is  in  Septem- 


OHIO. 


399 


her;  and  its  highest  in  March.  But  it  is  subject  to  sudden  and  very 
considerable  rises  through  the  year.  It  has  been  known  to  rise  twelve 
feet  in  a night.  When  these  sudden  elevations  take  place,  at  the  breaking 
up  of  the  ice,  a scene  of  desolation  sometimes  occurs;  and  boats  and 
every  thing  in  its  course  are  carried  away  by  the  accumulated  power  of 
the  ice  and  the  water.  Its  average  descent  in  a mile,  is  not  far  from  six 
inches.  At  Cincinnati,  the  surface  of  the  river  at  low  water,  is  supposed 
to  be  130  feet  below  the  level  of  Lake  Erie;  and  430  above  that  of  the 
tide  water  of  the  Atlantic.  Between  Pittsburgh  and  the  mouth,  it  makes 
three  and  a half  degrees  of  southing  in  latitude.  The  average  time  of 
the  suspension  of  its  navigation  by  ice,  is  five  weeks.  One  half  of  the 
remainder  of  the  year,  on  an  average  it  is  navigable  by  large  steam  boats 
in  its  whole  course.  The  other  half  it  can  be  navigated  easily  only  by 
steam  boats  of  a small  draft  of  water.  Since  the  Louisville  and  Portland 
Canal  has  been  completed,  steam  boats  of  small  draft  can  descend  at  all 
times  from  Pittsburgh  to  the  Mississippi.  Flat  and  keel  boats  descend 
the  river  at  all  seasons;  but  in  periods  of  low  water  with  frequent  ground- 
ings on  the  sand  bars,  and  the  necessity  of  often  unloading  to  get  the 
boat  off.  It  would  be  difficult  to  decide  when  the  Ohio  has  the  most 
beautiful  appearance,  in  the  spring,  when  it  rolls  along  between  full  banks, 
or  in  the  autumn,  when  between  the  ripples  it  is  calm  and  still,  with  broad 
and  clean  sand  bars ; or  in  the  ripples,  where  its  transparent  waters  glide 
rapidly  over  the  pebbly  and  shelly  bottom,  showing  every  thing,  as  through 
the  transparency  of  air.  The  Ohio,  and  ail  its  tributaries  cannot  have 
less  than  5,000  miles  of  boatable  waters;  and  taking  all  circumstances 
into  consideration,  few  rivers  in  the  world  can  vie  with  it  either  in  utility, 
or  beauty. 

The  Great  Miami  is  the  next  largest  and  most  interesting  river  of  this 
state.  It  rises  between  40°  and  41°  N.  latitude,  and  interlocks  with  the 
Massissineway  of  the  Wabash,  and  the  St.  Mary’s  and  Au  Glaize,  branches 
of  the  Maumee,  and  the  Scioto.  It  flows  in  a strong,  but  generally  smooth 
and  unbroken  current,  and  has  a valley  of  uncommon  width  and  fertility, 
though  sometimes  subject  to  inundation.  From  the  west  it  receives 
Loramie’s  Creek,  which  enters  it  100  miles  above  its  mouth;  and  Still 
Water,  50  miles  below,  and  White  Water,  7 miles  above  its  junction  with 
the  Ohio.  Its  principal  eastern  branch  is  Mad  River,  which  rises  in  the 
northern  part  of  Logan  county,  traversing  that  county  and  Clark,  and 
the  north-west  corner  of  Green  county.  Its  general  direction  is  south- 
west: and  the'  country  through  which  it  runs  is  singularly  fertile  and 
beautiful.  The  length  of  its  course  is  something  more  than  50  miles. 
It  enters  the  Miami  just  above  the  town  of  Dayton,  and  receives  its  name 


400 


OHIO. 


from  its  furious  and  broken  current.  The  chief  branches  of  Mad  River 
are  East  Fork  and  King’s  Creek. 

Little  Miami  rises  in  the  south-west  corner  of  Madison  county,  and  in 
a south-west  direction  traverses  Clark,  Green,  Warren  and  Hamilton 
counties;  and  joins  the  Ohio  seven  miles  above  Cincinnati,  [t  is  not  of 
much  importance  as  a navigable  stream;  but  from  the  fertility  of  the  lands 
on  its  borders,  and  its  numerous  mill  seats,  it  is  a river  of  great  utility. 
There  are  nearly  50  mills  on  it;  some  of  them  paper  mills,  and  other  mills  of 
importance.  Its  principal  branches  are  East  Branch,  Shawnee,  Obannon, 
Turtle,  Todd’s  Fork,  Csesar’s  and  Massie’s  Creeks  on  the  eastern  side,* 
and  Goose  and  Beaver  Creek  on  the  west.  An  hundred  miles  from  its 
mouth,  it  has  singular  rapids,  where  the  river  in  no  great  distance  falls 
200  feet.  The  stream  is  here  compressed  to  ten  yards  in  width.  The 
country  between  the  Great  and  Little  Miami  is  generally  finely  watered, 
healthy,  pleasant  and  fertile ; and  may  be  considered  the  garden  of  the 
state.  Its  commercial  intercourse  is  with  Cincinnati. 

In  advancing  towards  the  east  from  the  Little  Miami,  we  cross  Big 
Indian  Creek,  White  Oak,  Straight,  Eagle,  Bull  Skin,  Brush,  and  Turkey 
Creeks.  The  Scioto  is  a considerable  river  of  the  Ohio ; and  has  its 
whole  course  in  this  state.  It  rises  in  a morass  north  of  Logan  county. 
Its  general  direction  is  south-east,  and  its  whole  course  little  short  of  200 
miles.  It  enters  the  Ohio  by  a mouth  150  yards  wide,  and  is  navigable, 
in  good  stages  of  the  water,  130  miles.  Its  principal  branches  are  Whet- 
stone, Big  Walnut,  Lower  Walnut,  and  Salt  Creeks,  from  the  east,  and 
Paint,  Deer,  Darby,  Mill  and  Baker’s  Creeks,  from  the  west.  Not  far 
above  Columbus,  on  the  bank,  is  an  inexhaustible  quarry  of  free  stone,  or 
marble,  of  a beautiful  grayish  color.  There  are  rich  and  beautiful  prai- 
ries on  this  river;  and  its  valley  is  uncommonly  wide  and  fertile.  When 
it  was  first  settled  it  proved  to  be  extremely  sickly.  In  the  progress  of 
cultivation  that  character  has  passed  away;  and  the  Scioto  country  is  now 
among  the  most  fertile,  eligible,  and  pleasant  parts  of  the  state.  Colum- 
bus, the  political  capital  of  the  state,  and  Chillicothe,  which  was  until 
recently  so,  are  on  this  river;  and  there  are  many  pleasant  villages,  and 
much  well  settled  country  on  it  and  its  waters. 

The  country  between  the  Scioto  and  the  Muskingum  is  watered  by  the 
Great  Hockhocking  and  its  waters.  It  enters  the  Ohio  150  miles  above 
the  mouth  of  the  Scioto,  and  is  navigable  for  boats  to  Athens,  40  miles 
from  its  mouth.  It  has  a deep  and  still,  but  narrow  channel.  Near  its 
source,  7 miles  north  of  Lancaster,  is  a romantic  cascade  of  40  feet 
perpendicular.  It  has  a number  of  mills  erected  on  it.  Its  chief  tribu- 
taries are  Rush,  Sunday,  Monday,  Margaret’s  and  Federal  Creeks. 


OHIO. 


401 


The  Muskingum  rises  near  the  sources  of  the  Cuyahoga,  of  lake  Erie 
in  the  southern  part  of  Connecticut  Reserve.  Its  course  is  remarkably 
sinuous;  but  its  general  direction  is  southwardly.  It  traverses  Stark, 
Tuscarawas,  Coshocton,  Muskingum,  Morgan  and  Washington  counties, 
and  enters  the  Ohio  at  Marietta,  by  a mouth  250  yards  wide.  It  is 
boatable,  in  good  stages  of  the  water,  to  Coshocton,  100  miles  by  the 
course  of  the  river.  Small  crafts  ascend  it  to  a portage  of  one  mile  to 
the  boatable  waters  of  Cuyahoga  of  lake  Erie.  There  are  considerable 
falls  in  the  river  at  Zanesville,  which  afford  sites  for  many  mill  seats. 
Some  parts  of  the  course  of  the  Muskingum  are  through  a hilly  country. 
The  principal  branches  are  Licking,  White  Woman’s,  Willis’,  Wolf,  Coal, 
Olive,  Green,  Meigs,  Salt,  Jonathan,  Wakatomka,  Still  Water,  Sugar, 
Coneter,  Nimishillen,  and  Indian  Creeks.  Above  Coshocton  the  river 
itself  is  generally  called  Tuscarawas.  In  the  intervals  of  the  precipitous 
country  along  this  river,  the  lands  are  fine;  and  the  country  is  remarkable 
for  health. 

Several  considerable  creeks  enter  the  Ohio,  between  the  Muskingum 
and  the  Pennsylvania  line,  such  as  Pawpaw,  Little  Muskingum,  Indian, 
Wheeling,  Captina,  Stony,  and  Sunfish.  These  are  the  principal  rivers 
that  enter  the  Ohio  and  its  waters.  But  the  table  lands  of  this  state  have 
a general  inclination  either  to  the  Ohio,  or  to  lake  Erie;  and  a number 
of  considerable  rivers  run  from  the  northern  belt  of  this  table  land  into 
lake  Erie.  The  principal  of  these  is  the  Maumee. 

The  Maumee  rises  in  the  north-eastern  angle  of  the  state  of  Indiana; 
and  flows  in  a north-eastern  direction  across  the  north-western  borders  of 
the  state  of  Ohio  into  the  western  extremity  of  lake  Erie.  It  is  navigable 
33  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  navigation  is  there  obstructed  by  shoals 
and  rapids.  It  is  a broad,  deep  stream,  with  an  average  width  from  150  to 
200  yards,  and  is  formed  by  the  confluence  of  the  St.  Joseph’s,  St.  Mary’s 
and  the  Great  and  Little  Au  Glaize.  This  important  river  has  a course 
of  100  miles.  Fort  Meigs,  a fortification  of  much  note  in  the  late  war, 
is  on  this  river.  It  has  a valuable  fishery,  and  its  banks,  in  the  season  of 
vegetation,  are  remarkable  for  the  luxuriance  of  their  verdure.  The  St. 
Joseph’s  of  this  rivet*  heads  in  Indiana,  is  a considerable  stream,  and 
boatable  50  miles.  The  St.  Mary’s,  another  of  its  branches,  has  a long 
course  of  boatable  navigation.  The  Au  Glaize  is  a considerable  stream, 
that  passes  through  the  Indian  country,  and  falls  into  the  Maumee  at 
Fort  Winchester,  50  miles  below  Fort  Wayne.  Touissaint  River  enters 
the  lake  20  miles  east  of  the  Maumee.  It  may  rather  be  considered  an 
arm  of  the  lake  than  a river.  It  rises  in  the  prairie,  has  no  perceptible 
current,  and  is  choked  with  wild  rice,  aquatic  plants,  and  grass.  In 
summer  it  abounds  with  wild  fowls.  Otters  and  muskrats  are  trapped 

51 


402 


OHIO. 


in  great  numbers  by  the  Indians  on  it.  Portage  is  an  inconsiderable  river 
heading  not  far  from  Urbana.  Like  most  of  the  rivers,  that  rise  in  these 
level  lands,  and  fall  into  the  lake,  it  has  very  little  current,  and  is  150 
yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 

The  Sandusky  rises  in  the  western  limits  of  Richland  county,  and 
runs  in  a general  north-west,  direction,  90  miles  to  the  lake.  It  is  more 
rapid  than  the  other  lake  streams;  but  yet  affords  good  navigation.  Its 
chief  branches  are  Tyemochtee,  Honey,  and  Wolf  Creeks.  Between 
this  river  and  the  Scioto,  is  a portage  of  only  four  miles.  It  has  been 
proposed  to  canal  this  portage.  There  are  fine  bodies  of  land  on  the 
banks  of  this  stream.  Huron  falls  into  the  lake  by  a mouth  50  yards 
wide.  Its  comparative  course  is  30  miles.  Rocky  River  is  a stream  of 
considerable  importance.  The  lands  on  its  banks  are  fine,  and  it  has  a 
rich  and  thriving  settlement. 

Cuyahoga  rises  in  the  central  parts  of  Geauga  county,  and  passes 
through  Portage  and  Cuyahoga  counties,  entering  the  lake  at  Cleaveland. 
Its  whole  course  is  60  miles,  greater  part  of  which  distance  it  is  boatable. 
Above  where  it  is  boatable  it  has  valuable  mill  seats.  Cleaveland,  which 
has  become  a place  of  importance,  is  at  its  mouth. 

Chagrin,  Grand,  Ashtabula,  and  Coneaught  are  considerable  streams, 
that  rise  near  the  lake,  run  northwardly,  and  fall  into  it.  Ohio  is  the 
country  of  hills  and  vales,  delightfully  irrigated  with  springs,  brooks,  and 
rivers  of  every  class  and  size.  There  are  more  than  an  hundred  streams 
not  here  enumerated,  which,  for  seven  months  in  the  year,  carry  a consid- 
erable mass  of  waters.  A remark,  applicable  to  the  whole  western  coun- 
try, applies  to  this  state,  that  a great  number  of  considerable  streams 
during  the  winter  months,  disappear  before  the  evaporating  ardors  of  the 
summer’s  sun. 

Minerals , and  Mineral  Springs.  In  the  eastern  and  north-eastern 
divisions  of  this  state,  on  the  Muskingum,  Hockhocking  and  Scioto,  min- 
eral coal  abounds,  and  it  has  an  extensive  and  rich  coal  region.  It  is  in  the 
greatest  abundance,  and  of  the  best  quality.  It  so  happens,  that  in  the 
same  region  are  found  the  greatest  bodies  of  iron  ore.  Nature  Seems  to 
have  furnished  the  industrious  people  of  this  state  with  every  possible 
facility  for  important  and  staple  manufactures.  Limestone,  marble,  and 
free  stone,  in  strata  easy  to  quarry,  near  the  surface,  and  admirably  adapt- 
ed to  building  and  public  works,  abound.  The  useful  earths  and  fossils 
are  in  abundance.  Specimens  of  gypsum  are  procured  from  Sandusky 
bay.  Salt  springs  are  common.  In  some  the  water  contains  almost  as 
much  salt  as  that  of  the  sea.  The  most  important  manufactures  of  this 
article  are  in  Muskingum,  Morgan,  Jackson,  and  Gallia  counties.  Nearly 
hal  a million  bushels  are  manufactured  in  the  state.  Those  springs 


OHIO. 


403 


whose  waters  are  drunk  as  medicinal,  are  most  of  them  more  or  less  im- 
pregnated with  muriate  of  soda. 

The  Yellow  Springs,  the  most  accustomed  watering  place,  after  Har 
rodsburgh  Springs,  in  the  western  country,  are  situated  near  the  falls  of 
the  Miami,  63  miles  from  Cincinnati,  and  18  from  Dayton,  intermediate 
between  the  pretty  towns  of  Xenia  and  Springfield,  and  on  the  height  of 
the  table  land  of  the  state.  The  elevated  position,  the  grand  and  roman- 
tic scenery,  and  the  cool  and  salubrious  air  probably  contribute  as  much 
to  the  restoration  of  invalids,  as  the  waters,  which  are,  however,  strongly 
charged  with  iron  in  solution.  The  hotel  displays  a front  with  a collon- 
ade  of  200  feet,  with  a number  of  beautiful  cottages  parallel  with  the 
main  building.  The  clearing  is  cut  out  of  the  solid  mass  of  forest,  leaving 
trees  and  openings,  as  beauty  of  scenery  and  shade  require.  From  this 
elevation,  and  these  sumptuous  erections  of  art,  the  eye  sweeps  the  an- 
cient forests,  over  Indiana,  towards  the  Ohio  and  the  lakes,  arrested  only 
by  the  horizon.  The  falls  of  the  Little  Miami,  Pompey’s  Pillar,  the  Blue 
Hole,  and  many  other  romantic  spectacles  in  this  region  of  grand  and 
mountain  scenery  impart  to  this  watering  place  all  the  charms  that  the 
lover  of  nature  would  require;  and  heighten  the  contrast  of  the  luxury  of 
the  accommodations  provided  for  visitants.  Lovers  of  the  picturesque 
affirm,  that  neither  the  Bedford  Springs  of  Pennsylvania,  nor  the  watering 
places  of  the  mountains  of  Virginia,  surpass  this  place  in  grandeur,  or 
equal  it  in  amenity  of  prospect. 

Climate.  Climate  here  remarkably  corresponds  to  latitude.  Other 
elements,  that  operate  upon  the  result  are  elevation  and  proximity  to 
waters,  or  distance  from  them.  The  climate,  for  instance,  along  the 
immediate  valley  of  the  Ohio  is  more  equable  and  temperate,  than  in  the 
middle  and  table  lands  of  the  state;  and  the  difference  greater,  than  can 
be  attributed  merely  to  difference  of  latitude.  The  central  parts  of  the 
state  are  in  the  same  latitude  with  Philadelphia.  The  mean  temperature 
of  the  year  at  Philadelphia  was  found  to  be  53°.  In  the  same  year  the 
mean  temperature  of  Ohio  was  55°.  As  we  recede  from  the  Ohio  the 
temperature  diminishes  in  a greater  ratio  than  that  of  the  latitude.  The 
prevalent  and  warm  winds  are  those  that  blow  from  the  gulf,  and  up  the 
. valley  of  the  Mississippi.  The  cold  breezes  come  charged  with  the  cold 
of  Canada  and  the  lakes.  In  that  part  of  the  state  that  slopes  to  the 
south,  the  snow  neither  falls  deep,  nor  lies  long.  But  in  Connecticut 
Reserve,  and  in  the  points  that  slope  towards  the  lakes,  they  have  deep 
and  durable  snows;  and  sleighing  and  sledding  are  practicable  a consid- 
erable length  of  time.  It  is  a great  inconvenience  in  this  climate,  that 
during  the  winter  months  the  transitions  from  w^arm  to  cold,  and  the  re- 
verse are  frequent  and  violent.  Thaws  and  frosts  are  the  result,  and  the 


404 


OHIO1. 


soil,  being  deep  and  clayey,  the  travelling  is  muddy  and  uncomfortable^ 
The  winters  are  sometimes  considerably  severe,  and  the  Ohio  has  been 
crossed  at  Cincinnati  for  nine  weeks.  Oftentimes  they  are  mild,  and  can 
scarcely  be  said  to  be  more  than  a prolongation  of  autumn  and  spring. 
Winter  seldom  commences  in  severity  until  Christmas,  and  its  severity  is- 
generally  mitigated  early  rn  February.  Vegetation,  which  is  the  most 
certain  and  accurate  thermometer,  indicates  a temperature  of  greater 
mildness  in  the  season,  than  in  the  corresponding  latitudes  in  the  Atlantic. 
The  heat  of  the  summer  in  the  Ohio  valley  is  uniformly  oppressive,  but 
does  not  commence  early,  nor  continue  late  in  the  season.  The  heat  of 
summer  abates  as  early  in  the  autumn,  as  in  the  more  northern  latitudes 
in  the  Atlantic  country.  The  autumns  are  almost  uniformly  temperate,, 
dry,  and  beautiful;  and  nothing  can  exceed  them  for  health  and  pleasant  - 
ness. No  where  in  the  world  is  the  grand  autumnal  painting  of  the 
forests  in  the  decay  of  vegetation,  seen  in  more  beauty  than  in  the  beech 
forests  of  Ohio.  The  richness  of  the  fading  colours,  and  the  effect  of  the 
mingling  hues,  baffles  all  description.  A great  farming  community  like 
that  of  Ohio,  could  scarcely  desire  a better  climate  for  themselves,  their 
cattle  and  stock  of  all  kinds ; or  one,  in  which  -a  man  can  work  abroad 
with  comfort  a greater  number  of  days  in  the  year. 

Antiquities.  We  have  space  to  add  but  little  upon  this  subject.  The 
most  remarkable  are  at  Worthington,  Granville,  Athens,  Marietta,  Galli- 
opolis,  Paint  Creek,  Circleville,  and  on  the  Little  Miami.  The  domestic 
utensils,  pottery,  vases  and  trinkets  of  the  inhabitants,  who,  probably, 
reared  them,  are  found  in  and  about  the  mounds.  The  instruments  of 
their  warfare  are  discovered,  too,  and  give  clear  indications  that  they  cul- 
tivated the  horrid  art  of  shedding  human  blood.  Most  of  the  human 
bones,  which  are  dug  in  great  quantities  from  the  mounds,  moulder  on 
exposure  to  the  air.  The  skulls  in  most  instances  remain,  and  great 
numbers  are  shown  in  the  museums.  They  evidence  a surprising  variety 
in  the  retreat  of  the  facial  angle  of  the  skulls.  It  is  affirmed,  that  marks 
of  iron  tools  are  found  upon  the  wood  dug  up  from  considerable  depths^, 
below  the  surface  of  the  prairies.  A sword  is  preserved,  as  a curiosity, 
which  is  said  to  have  been  enclosed  in  the  wood  of  the  roots  of  a tree 
which  could  not  have  been  less  than  500  years  old.  We  have  not  seen 
this  sword;  but  we  have  seen  a diminutive  iron  horse  shoe,  dug  up  at  a 
depth  of  25  feet  below  the  surface,  in  graduating  the  street  near  the 
mansion  of  Judge  Burnet,  in  Cincinnati.  It  was  smal'er  than  the  kind 
of  shoe,  required  for  the  smallest  kind  of  asses.  A number  of  the  nails 
were  in  it,  and  the  erosion  by  rust  was  such  as  might  be  expected  to 
result  from  the  oxidation  of  500  years.  Many  of  the  mounds  are  com- 
posed of  different  earths  from  that,  which  is  found  in  their  vicinity.  It 


OHIO. 


405 


is  the  most  inexplicable  of  all  the  mysterious  circumstances  connected 
with  these  mounds,  that  the  material  of  these  immense  structures,  some  of 
which  would  require  the  labor  of  a thousand  men  for  some  time  in  the 
erection,  should  have  been  brought  from  a distance.  There  is  no  conceiv- 
able motive  why  the  earth,  on  which  the  mounds  rest,  should  not  have 
subserved  all  purposes,  that  we  can  imagine  the  builders  to  have  had  in 
view.  We  know  with  what  scrupulous  care  the  Jews  throw  a little  of 
the  earth  of  the  holy  land  into  the  graves  of  their  friends.  Possibly  this 
transfer  of  earth  for  the  mounds,  from,  a distance,  may  have  reference  to 
affecting  remembrances,  like  those  of  the  Jews.  We  have  elsewhere 
described  the  most  remarkable  mounds  at  Circleville.  Engravings  of  its 
form  may  be  seen  in  books,  that  treat  professedly  upon  this  subject. 

Population.  By  the  census  of  1S20  there  were  130,460  men,  over  18 
years,  capable  of  bearing  arms.  At  the  same  time  110,991  persons  were 
engaged  in  agriculture;  18,956  in  manufactures,  and  1,459  in  commerce 
or  merchandize.  There  were  3,495  foreigners,  not  naturalized.  No 
colony  in  history  has  ever  shown  a greater  natural  increase  in  papulation. 
No  country  can  show  a greater  number  of  young  children,  in  proportion 
to  the  whole  number  of  the  inhabitants.  Among  the  obvious  causes  of 
this  great  increase  may  be  mentioned  the  circumstance  of  there  being 
no  slavery  allowed  in  Ohio.  The  climate  is,  unquestionably,  healthy. 
The  state  is  divided  into  moderately  sized  freeholds.  Most  of  the  people 
are  engaged  in  the  healthy  and  vigorous  pursuits  of  agriculture.  The 
soil  yields,  in  the  greatest  profusion,  all  that  is  necessary  for  healthy  and 
comfortable  subsistence.  Whatever  be  the  cause,  the  multitudes  of 
children,  that  are  seen  about  the  farm  houses  in  the  country,  and  that  fill 
the  streets  of  the  villages  and  "towns,  do  not  fail  to  excite  the  remark  of 
every  passing  traveller. 

Religion.  In  our  table  of  religious  denominations,  see  appendix,  we 
have  given  general  views  of  the  comparative  numbers  of  the  different 
religious  denominations.  There  are  numbers  of  all  the  known  existing 
sects.  But  the  Presbyterians  and  Methodists  are  the  prevalent  denomin. 
ations.  The  Shakers  and  Tunkers  have  establishments  in  this 
state.  German  Lutherans  exist  in  considerable  numbers.  Most  people 
are  desirous  of  being  thought  to  belong  to  some  religious  denomination- 
It  is  affrme  i by  a gentleman,  well  known  for  his  researches  into  the  anti" 
qu't'es  of  this  state,  that  there  is  a greater  number  of  professors  of 
rel  gion,  in  proportion  to  the  whole  number  of  the  people,  than  in  any 
state  in  the  Union.  There  are  a vast  number  of  religious  societies;  but 
th  ere  is  not  a great  number,  that  have  regularly  established  pastors. 
The  custom  of  itenerating  preaching,  as  a supply,  is  very  prevalent.  The 
people  are  generally  a quiet,  orderly,  peaceable,  moral  and  industrious 
race.  Suicide,  excesses,  murders  in  affray,  and  instances  of  deliberate 


406 


OHIO. 


and  atrocious  cruelty,  are  rare ; and  the  general  moral  character  of  the 
people  is  highly  respectable. 

In  a country  so  fresh,  much  taste  for  embellishment  or  improvement  in 
the  fine  arts,  cannot  be  reasonably  expected.  From  New  England  and 
New  Jersey  this  state  inherits  a passion  for  sacred  music;  and  societies 
for  the  promotion  of  this  delightful  science  are  common.  A vast  number 
of  New  England  music  masters  find  annual  employment  in  their  vocation. 
There  appears,  also,  to  be  a general  taste  for  instrumental  music;  as  .is 
manifested  in  seeing  in  great  numbers  of  the  farm  houses  and  cabins* 
rude  harps  and  other  home  manufactured  instruments  of  music.  In 
passing  the  detached  dwellings  of  the  Ohio  farmers  in  the  winter  evenings, 
we  generally  hear  the  interior  cheered  with  some  kind  of  music.  A taste 
for  ornament,  and  those  arts,  which  embellish  society  and  existence,  is 
evidently  increasing.  On  anniversaries,  the  people  are  addicted  to  show, 
parade  and  splendor.  There  is  a fondness  for  a large  and  stately  house. 
Gardening  is  studied  in  many  places;  and  Cincinnati  shows  a number  of 
gardens,  that  will  vie  with  almost  any  in  the  United  States.  An  idea  of 
the  means  of  diffusing  information  may  be  gathered  from  the  fact,  that 
more  than  80  newspapers  are  printed  in  the  state,  and  that  it  has  504 
post  offices. 

Trade  and  Manufactures . This  state,  more  populous  than  any  other 
in  the  West,  and  possessing  in  many  respects  manufacturing  capabilities, 
has  taken  precedence  of  all  the  rest  in  manufactures.  Cotton  yarn,  cloth 
and  woollen  goods,  are  already  manufactured  to  a considerable  extent. 
Cincinnati  contains  a great  mass  of  intelligent  and  enterprising  manu- 
facturers. Steubenville,  Zanesville,  Chillicotbe,  Dayton,  and  many  other 
of  the  young  and  rising  towns  are  commencing  manufactures  with  great 
spirit.  In  1810,  the  manufactures  of  the  state  amounted  to  nearly  two 
millions  of  dollars.  At  present  they  must  amount  to  triple  that  sum. 
From  a single  township  175  tons  of  cheese  worth  20,000  dollars  was 
exported  in  one  year.  The  whole  amount  of  taxable  property  is  rated 
at  sixty-two  million  dollars. 

Colleges  and  Seminaries.  In  a laudable  zeal  to  advance  science  and 
education,  it  is  a question,  if  this  and  the  other  western  states  have  not 
been  too  fond  of  multiplying  colleges,  or  small  institutions  so  called, 
built  upon  principles  naturally  tending  to  rouse  a spirit  of  unworthy  emu- 
lation, to  the  neglect  of  respectable  common  schools,  efficient  high 
schools,  and  one  or  two  universities  with  endowments,  library,  apparatus 
and  professorships  to  furnish  to  the  means  of  a finished  classical  educa- 
tion, yet  a desideratum  in  the  western  country.  While  the  most  enlight- 
ened nations  in  Europe  are  content  with  three  or  four  universities,  we 
have  at  least  50  colleges  in  the  western  country. 


OHIO. 


407 


Ohio,  preceding  all  her  sister  states  in  the  manifestation  of  an  enlight- 
ened zeal  to  advance  education,  has  not  been  behind  them  in  chartering 
colleges. 

Miami  university  is  situated  in  Oxford,  near  the  western  extremity  of 
Ohio,  and  40  miles  north-west  from  Cincinnati.  It  has  an  academical 
department  and  a preparatory  school.  It  has  one  spacious  building,  and 
others  appropriated  to  boarders,  a competent  number  of  professors,  and 
about  80  students  in  all  the  departments.  The  position  is  healthy,  and 
tuition  cheap.  It  has  consequently  became  a considerable  resort  of 
students  from  other  states.  The  annual  income  of  its  funds  is  about 
2,500  dollars. 

Ohio  university  at  Athens  has  respectable  endowments  and  buildings 
and  ordinarily  a number  of  students  not  much  inferior  to  that  of  the 
Miami  institution.  Its  endowments  consist  of  two  townships  of  land. 

Kenyon  college  at  Gambier,  an  episcopal  institution,  has  arisen  in  the 
midst  of  what  was  recently  a orest  in  the  central  parts  of  the  state  It 
has  one  magnificent  building,  and  others  of  less  magnitude  with  ample 
funds  and  endowments,  amounting  to  50,000  dollars  and  140  students. 

The  Western  Reserve  college  at  Hudson  has  been  recently  established 
in  the  north-eastern  division  of  the  state.  Connected  with  it  is  an 
academy,  in  which  are  30  students.  The  manual  labor  plan  is  in  exper- 
iment here. 

Franklin  college  at  New  Athens  is  in  successful  operation.  A commo- 
dious building  sufficient  to  accommodate  140  students  has  just  been 
completed. 

The  Worthington  Reformed  Medical  College  at  Worthington  has 
a considerable  number  of  medical  students.  Two  rival  medical 
colleges  at  Cincinnati  have  recently  been  merged  in  one,  which  has  one 
spacious  building,  and  another  of  equal  beauty  and  extent  erecting.  In 
buildings,  library,  apparatus  and  professorships  it  is  highly  respectable, 
and  has  had  on  an  average  100  medical  students. 

The  Lane  Theological  seminary  has  recently  been  organized,  two  miles 
distant  from  Cincinnati.  It  is  under  the  care  of  the  Presbyterian  churchy 
and  has  been  endowed  with  funds  estimated  at  30,000  dollars.  The 
position  is  healthy  and  delightful,  and  the  number  of  the  students  in- 
creasing. 

There  are  15  or  20  academies,  and  as  each  session  of  the  legislature 
incorporates  new  ones,  we  cannot  be  precise  in  imparting  information 
upon  this  subject.  An  academical  institute  of  some  celebrity  exists  at 
Marietta.  An  academy,  not  long  since  incorporated  at  Urbana,  has  a 
large  number  of  pupils.  There  are  academies  at  Barton,  New  Lisbon, 


40S 


OHIO. 


Steubenville,  Cadiz,  Union,  Galliopolis,  Chillicothe,  and  Dayton.  A 
very  respectable  High  School  has  recently  been  organized  at  Cincinnati. 

The  first  introduction  of  the  New  IJpgland  system  of  common  schools 
in  the  western  country  was  in  Ohio,  and  dates  in  1825.  By  different 
amendatory  enactments  it  has  acquired  a degree  of  form  and  consistency, 
and  the  thoughts  and  usages  of  the  people  are  growing  to  a gradual 
adaptation  to  it.  The  example,  it  is  hoped,  will  be  followed  by  the  other 
western  states  and  the  foundation  laid  for  unspeakable  blessings  to  the 
generations  to  come.  By  this  act  the  trustees  of  every  incorporated 
township  are  required  to  divide  it  into  a suitable  number  of  school  districts? 
the  prudential  concerns  of  which  are  to  be  managed  by  three  school 
directors,  a clerk  and  treasurer.  The  funds  for  this  vast  system  arise 
from  various  sources  besides  the  easy  tax  of  one  mill  upon  a dollar, 
constituting  a large  and  growing  revenue.  It  was  at  first  found  discord- 
ant with  the  habits  and  likings  of  portions  of  the  population.  This 
odium  of  prejudice  is  wearing  away,  and  the  system  is  going  into  efficient 
and  noiseless  operation.  In  Cincinnati  alone  it  has  provided  instruction 
for  3,000  children,  in  well  organized  schools,  many  of  whom,  but  for  this 
provision,  would  probably  have  grown  into  life  without  a common  school 
education.  A general  interest  in  literature  is  making  visible  progress  in 
this  great  state. 

An  asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb  has  been  established  at  Columbus, 
which  promises  much  to  that  suffering  class  of  the  population. 

Chief  Towns.  This  state  possesses  over  100  considerable  villages. 
Of  many  we  have  space  but  for  little  more  than  the  names. 

Cincinnati,  the  chief  town  of  this  state,  and  next  to  New  Orleans  of 
the  western  country,  is  situated  on  the  north  shore  of  the  Ohio,  nearly  in 
the  south-west  angle  of  the  state.  Its  position  is  a beautiful  vale  12 
miles  in  circumference,  created  by  an  elliptical  sweep  of  Ohio  hills. 
Those  of  them,  that  have  not  been  laid  bare  by  the  unsparing  axe,  are 
beautifully  wooded  to  their  summits;  and  by  the  swell  and  indentation 
of  their  waving  outline  present  the  most  graceful  and  charming  forms. 
From  the  summit  of  any  of  these  hills,  the  town  spreads  a panoramic  map 
of  exquisite  painting.  The  eye  traces  every  street,  with  its  smokes, 
fixtures  and  moving  life,  from  which  all  the  roughness  of  inception,  softened 
by  distance,  disappears.  The  noble  establishments,  the  handsome 
mansions,  the  extending  masses  of  buildings,  the  numerous  manufactures 
propelling  their  columns  of  black  smoke  aloft,  the  boat  yards,  the  bustling 
inhabitants  with  the  hundred  teams  and  drays,  the  Ohio  winding  along 
the  southern  limit,  and  itself  enlivened  by  passing  crafts,  and  stately 
steam  boats,  rounding  to  the  shore,  or  departing  from  it,  the  villages 
of  Newport  and  Covington  with  their  showy  houses  and  manufactures 


OHIO. 


409 


bn  the  Kentucky  bank  of  the  Ohio,  taken  together,  offer  such  a picture 
Of  beauty,  wealth,  progress  and  fresh  advance,  as  few  landscapes  in  any 
country  can  surpass.  Its  first  settlement  was  in  1789,  but  it  was  not 
until  1808,  that  a considerable  part  of  the  present  town  plot  that  surrounded 
Fort  Washington,  and  belonged  to  the  government,  was  sold  in  lots. 

A more  elegible  position  for  a town  can  scarcely  be  imagined.  The 
chief  area  consists  of  two  parallel  plains,  the  one  elevated  60  feet  above 
the  other,  and  descending  to  it  by  a gentle  and  graduated  slope,  affording 
admirable  facilities  for  washing  the  town  by  every  considerable  rain,  and 
sloping  it  to  the  eye  in  the  graceful  form  of  an  amphitheatre,  and  at  the 
same  time  furnishing  it  with  every  pleasing  variety  of  site  for  building. 
One  of  the  chief  beauties  of  this  city  is  obvious  to  every  eye,  which, 
however,  we  have  not  seen  recorded.  The  streets  crossing  each  other  at 
right  angles,  and  being  straight  and  uninterrupted,  present  vistas  bounded 
by  the  wooded  acclivities  of  the  surrounding  hills.  By  a well  known 
optical  illusion,  these  swelling  hill-sides,  seen  through  a vista,  narrowing  in 
apparent  width,  in  proportion  to  its  distance  from  the  eye,  fill  the  angle 
of  vision,  and  preclude  the  perception  of  any  distance  between  the  termi- 
nation of  the  street  and  the  commencement  of  the  hills.  In  consequence, 
through  whatever  street  the  beholder  looks,  it  seems  to  be  closed  by  a 
gate  of  verdure,  and  to  terminate  in  a forest. 

Seven  of  the  streets  are  66  feet  wide,  and  396  apart,  intersected  by 
streets  of  the  same  width  and  distance  at  right  angles.  One  entire  square, 
and  the  fraction  of  another,  are  reserved  in  central  parts  of  the  city  for. 
public  buildings.  The  city  buildings  cover  an  irregular  area  nearest  the 
form  of  a parallelagram.  The  central  parts  are  compactly  built  with 
houses  and  stores,  that  would  ornament  any  town.  The  most  showy 
quarters  are  Main,  Broadway,  and  Fourth  street  westward  from  its  inter- 
section with  Main.  Pearl  street  nearly  completed,  leading  from  the 
lower  Market  to  Walnut  street,  is  composed  of  uniform  buildings,  termi- 
nated by  a magnificent  Hotel,  five  stories  high,  and  will  add  greatly  to 
the  beauty  of  that  part  of  the  city.  The  public  buildings  are  a Court 
house,  jail,  four  market  houses,  one  of  them  500  feet  in  length,  the  Bazaar, 
U.  S.  Branch  Bank,  the  Cincinnati  College,  the  Catholic  Athenaeum,  the 
Medical  College,  for  which  a second  spacious  and  commodious  building  is 
erecting,  the  Mechanics  Institute,  Theatre,  and  a second  one  erecting,  two 
Museums,  the  Hospital  and  Lunatic  Asylum,  and  the  Woodward  High 
School  in  the  progress  of  erection.  Some  other  public  'buildings  are  in 
contemplation. 

Beside  these,  there  are  24  churches,  great  and  small.  Of  these  the 
Second  Presbyterian  church  is  the  handsomest,  the  exterior  being  of 
agreeable  architecture,  and  the  interior*  decidedly  beautiful.  The  Unita- 

52 


410 


OHIO 


rian  church  is  a singularly  neat  one.  The  interior  of  the  Catholic 
church  is  striking.  The  first  and  third  Presyterian  churches  are  spacious 
buildings,  as  the  new  Methodist  church  will  be,  when  completed.  A very 
neat  Baptist  church  is  nearly  completed.  Some  of  the  other  churches 
make  a respectable  appearance. 

There  are  many  fine  blocks  of  stores  on  Front  and  Main  streets, 
and  the  eye  is  arrested  by  many  beautiful  private  habitations.  Architec- 
tural taste  is  daily  becoming  more  enlightened  and  agreeable.  The  dull 
red  of  the  brick  walls  is  giving  way  to  more  pleasing  shades  between 
white  and  green ; and  a beautiful  stucco  imitating  marble  and  granite  is 
getting  into  fashion.  The  number  of  substantial  buildings  added  annu- 
ally to  the  city  for  three  years  past  averages  450. 

It  has  already  become  a great  manufacturing  town,  and  is  constantly 
becoming  more  so.  Our  limits  preclude  details;  but  all  the  substantial 
manufactures  known  in  our  country  are  carried  on  to  a greater  or  less- 
extent.  The  manufactures  in  iron  are  very  great,  particularly  in  the 
article  of  heavy  castings,  and  all  sorts  of  machinery  driven  by  steam. 
Of  such  establishments  there  are  9 or  10,  and  some  pf  them  on  a great 
.scale.  The  next  most  extensve  article  is  cabinet  work.  Steam  boat 
building  is  a great  item.  Hatting  is  pursued  to  a great  extent.  It  is 
believed,  that  the  city  contains  at  least  40  different  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments driven  by  steam  power.  Being  the  importing  and  exporting 
depot  for  more  than  a million  inhabitants,  this  city  transacts  an  immense 
business  particularly,  in  the  retailing  and  manufacturing  line.  The 
imports,  in  which  dry  goods  are  the  principal  item,  exceed  five  million 
dollars.  The  amount  of  exports,  consisting  of  the  various  articles  of 
produce,  of  which  pork  is  the  chief,  and  of  manufactures,  of  which  iron 
articles  and  cabinet  furniture  are  the  chief,  probably  exceed  the  imports. 
No  town  of  its  size  in  the  U.  S.  produces  a more  respectable  show  of  all 
the  different  classes  of  mechanics,  arranged  under  their  respective 
standards  on  the  fourth  of  July.  One  hundred  and  eleven  steam  boats 
have  been  built  here,  at  the  rate  of  about  15  a year  for  the  last  three 
years.  The  city  revenue  of  1831  was  35,231  dollars,  and  the  expendL 
tures  33,858. 

There  are  two  banks,  a branch  of  the  U.  S.  bank,  capital  1,200,000, 
and  the  Commercial  bank,  capital  500,000.  Beside  these  there  is  a 
Savings  bank.  There  are  three  Insurance  Companies  belonging  to  the 
city,  and  two  breaches  of  insurance  companies  at  Hartford,  Connecticut. 
The  water  company  supplies  the  city  with  water  from  the  Ohio,  raised 
by  steam  power  to  reservoirs  158  feet  above  low  water  mark  on  the  side 
of  one  of  the  Ohio  hills;  whence  it  is  distributed  over  the  town,  at  an 
average  expense  of  8 dollars  a year  for  a common  family’s  supply.  The 


OHIO. 


411 


city  famishes  three  daily  gazettes,  two  semi-weekly,  six  weekly,  of  which 
four  are  religious;  two  semi-monthly,  one  monthly  magazine,  and  one 
monthly  agricultural  paper,  and  one  quarterly  journal  of  medicine,  mak- 
ing in  all  16  periodicals.  Thirty-two  mails  arrive  in  a week,  and  the  post 
office  annual  receipts  amount  to  16,250  dollars 

There  are  two  fire  companies,  and  34  charitable  societies,  the  means* 
intelligence,  and  charity  of  which,  if  merged  in  one  society,  would 
probably  achieve  more  good  than  the  thirty-four.  There  are  25  religious 
societies,  in  which  most  of  the  religious  opinions  of  Christendom  are 
represented,  and  whose  mutual  watchfulness  of  each  other  educes  con- 
cord from  jealousy,  by  hindering  the  hurtful  predominance  of  any  one  of 
them,  and  enabling  each  to  pursue  its  respective  interests  unmolested  and 
in  peace. 

The  population  in  1826  was  16,230;  in  1829  24,408;  in  1830  26,515; 
and  by  a very  accurate  enumeratidn  in  1831,  28,014,  with  a floating  pop- 
ulation not  included  of  1,500,  making  the  total  at  this  time  more  than 
.30,000. 

Though  the  imperfect  filling  out  of  the  magnificent  plan  of  the  city, 
the  cumbering  of  the  streets  with  timber,  stone,  bricks  and  mortar,  and 
the  inconvenience  of  actual  building  present  an  image  of  crudeness 
and  immaturity,  it  needs  little  spirit  of  prophecy  to  predict  from  the  past 
to  the  future,  that  this  city,  which  will  be  shortly  central  to  more  than  two 
millions  of  inhabitants,  which  presents  the  greatest  variety  of  models  in 
the  theories  and  imaginings  of  strangers  from  all  parts  of  the  werid,  which 
evolves  the  germs  of  emulation  and  rivalry  to  a fault,  and  which  abounds 
in  provisions,  natural  wealth,  fuel,  and  all  the  materials  of  building,  and 
which  is  moreover  a healthy  town,  will,  in  the  course  of  a few  years,  vie 
in  beauty  and  population,  with  the  first  towns  in  the  Union. 

Cincinnati  has  been  called,  somewhat  to  the  discomposure  of  the  sis- 
terly feelings  of  Pittsburgh  and  Louisville,  the  ‘Queen  of  the  West.9 
Most  young  immigrants,  who  possess,  or  imagine  that  they  possess  a 
latent  copiousness  of  speech,  on  first  joining  themselves  to  the  citizens, 
woo  their  queen  by  an  incense  of  puffing,  vaunting  her  charms,  beauty, 
and  bounty  in  solid  columns.  She,  like  other  queens  and  beauties,  re- 
gards them  by  turning  an  ear  long  since  sated  and  deaf  with  flattery. 
W e know  not,  but  she  may  be  equally  callous  to  the  short  chapter  of  her 
faults — for  faults  she  has.  In  this  town,  as  in  New  Orleans,  there  are 
but  two  chief  avenues  to  distinction;  the  one  wealth;  the  other  the  talent 
of  gaining  popular  favor.  The  charities,  which  are  only  nursed  where 
the  people  are  of  one  race,  have  been  born,  baptized,  reared,  intermarried, 
and  had  their  whole  lot  of  human  vicissitudes  cast  together,  cannot  be 
supposed  to  put  forth  such  abundant  fruit,  where  society  is  continually 


OHIO. 


112 

shifting  by  the  unremitting  accession  of  strangers;  where  the  morbid 
appetite  of  novelty  fosters  fickleness,  and  precludes  the  chance  of  matured 
friendship,  mellowed  by  thorough  acquaintance  and  ancient  ties.  Deep 
and  enduring  remembrance  of  the  passing  guest  is  dispelled  by  the  heart- 
less and  hackneyed  welcome  prepared  for  the  coming  one. 

Concurrence  in  broad  views  for  the  advancement  of  literature,  or  the  great 
interests  of  humanity  cannot  be  expected  in  a city  composed  of  a popula- 
tion collected  from  so  many  different  countries,  and  transplanting  with 
them  amass  of  inveterate  prejudices.  A noble  foundation  of  the  present 
generation  and  the  generations  to  come,  in  order  to  be  reared  by  the  moral 
omnipotence  of  union  and  hearty  concurrence  must  here  achieve  the  im- 
possible success  of  uniting  a score  of  religious  sects,  as  many  political 
ones,  and  the  antipathies  of  national  and  sectional  jealousies. 

Hence,  while  the  existing  generation  talks,  and  writes  much  about 
improvements  in  science  and  literature,  it  must  be  a more  fortunate  gen- 
eration, in  which  wealth  and  the  humbler  arts  of  popularity  are  less  esti- 
mated, and  talents  and  merit  more,  which  can  expect  to  reap  the  fruits  of 
high  mental  cultivation,  or  cultivate  literature  to  any  considerable  extent. 

Of  competition  in  all  the  walks,  this  town  has  as  much  as  any  other,  and 
of  emulation  and  rivalry,  an  ample  share.  But  thesed  ra whacks,  the  almost 
inevitable  results  of  its  circumstances  notwithstanding,  no  town  in  the 
United  States  is  advancing  in  beauty  and  population  with  so  much 
rapidity,  or  promises  such  a sustained  progress  for  twenty  years  to  come. 

The  cif.y  contains  a great  number  of  excellent  schools,  in  which  the 
standing  and  improvement  of  the  pupils  will  compare  with  the  same  cir 
cumstances  in  any  other  town  in  the  Union.  Besides  private  schools  too 
numerous  to  be  named,  there  are  27  teachers  of  the  public  free  schools, 
in  which  2,700  children  receive  instruction.  There  is  as  great  a number 
of  clergymen,  physicians,  and  lawyers,  in  proportion  to  the  population,  as 
in  any  other  town. 

Cincinnati  is  in  latitude  39°  6'  30"  N.,  and  in  longitude  7°  24'  45° 
W.  from  Washington;  by  the  course  of  the  river  455  miles  from  Pitts- 
burgh, 405  from  the  Mississippi,  1 12  from  Columbus,  200  from  Sandusky, 
120  from  Indianapolis,  85  from  Frankfort,  680  from  Natchez,  270  from 
Nashville,  860  from  New  Orleans.,  350  from  St.  Louis,  105  from  Louis- 
ville, 518  from  Baltimore,  and  850  from  New  York  by  the  way  of  the 
Erie  and  New  York  Canal. 

Columbus  is  the  political  metropolis  of  the  state,  and  very  nearly  the 
geographical  centre  of  it.  It  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Scioto 
River,  in  the  centre  of  Franklin  county,  and  occupies  a beautiful  slope? 
ust  below  the  confluence  of  Whetstone  River,  with  the  Scioto.  It  was  a 
compact  forest  in  1812.  It  now  has  a number  of  respectable  schools,  a 


A 


OHIO. 


413 


classical  seminary,  the  customary  number  of  stores,  a bank,  four  printing 
offices,  a commodious  brick  market  house,  a state  house,  a building  for  the 
public  offices,  a penitentiary,  and  an  asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb.  The 
State  House  is  75  by  50  feet.  The  top  of  the  cupola  is  108  feet  high. 
Around  it  are  railed  walks,  from  which  the  whole  town  is  visible  as  from  a 
map.  It  commands  a delightful  landscape  over  a country  charmingly 
variegated,  as  extensive  as  the  eye  can  reach.  The  village  of  Franklinton, 
a mile  to  the  west,  and  the  winding  Scioto,  are  comprehended  in  this  view. 
The  building,  that  contains  the  public  offices,  is  100  by  25  feet.  In  a 
line  with  it  and  the  State  House,  is  the  handsome  Court  House  for  the 
Federal  Court.  These  buildings  are  all  on  the  public  square,  an  area  of 
ten  acres,  reserved  for  public  use,  in  the  centre  of  the  town.  The  peni- 
tentiary is  in  the  south-west  angle  of  the  town,  and  enclosed  with  a high 
stone  wail.  Immediately  below  the  penitentiary  is  a lateral  canal, 
on  which  canal  boats  have  already  floated  to  the  town,  connecting  this 
town  with  the  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal  eleven  miles  south.  This  will 
greatly  add  to  the  resources  of  the  town.  There  are  three  churches,  of 
which  the  Presbyterian  church  is  spacious,  being  50  by  50  feet.  The 
professional  men  are,  ten  lawyers,  five  regular  physicians,  and  five  of  the 
growing  denomination  called  steam  doctors.  The  number  of  houses  is 
330,  and  of  inhabitants  2,437.  Manufactures  have  commenced,  and  its 
relations  to  the  canal  will  give  a new  impetus  to  their  growth.  The  circum- 
stance of  its  being  the  political  metropolis  of  its  great  state  attaches  to 
it  a distinguished  and  polite  society.  It  is  a striking  example  of  the  cre- 
ation, no  longer  uncommon  in  the  western  country,  of  a town,  that  has 
grown  to  importance  in  a few  years  from  the  solid  forest. 

It  is  in  N.  latitude  39°  57'  and  6°  W-  longitude.  Columbus  is  396 
miles  from  Washington,  551  from  New  York,  477  from  Philadelphia,  755 
from  Boston,  429  from  Baltimore,  991  from  New  Orleans,  and  397  from 
Nashville.  Columbus  is  112  miles  from  Cincinnati. 

Steubenville,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Jefferson  county,  is  situated  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Ohio.  It  was  laid  out  with  great  regularity  in  1798, 
and  is  in  the  centre  of  a rich  and  populous  country.  The  town  was  in- 
corporated in  1805,  with  city  privileges.  It  contains  three  churches,  an 
academy,  a handsome  market  house,  a woollen  factory,  a steam  paper  mill, 
a flour  mill,  and  cotton  factory.  A manufacturing  spirit  is  increasing, 
and  new  establishments  are  in  progress  and  in  contemplation.  It  has 
two  printing  offices,  two  banks,  27  mercantile  stores,  18  public  inns,  an 
air  foundry,  and  other  mechanical  establishments.  In  1820  it  contained 
2,479  inhabitants,  and  now  contains  nearly  3,000.  It  is  distant  38  miles 
south-west  from  Pittsburgh;  25 north-east  from  8t.  Clairsville,  and  150 
north-east  from  Columbus;  N,  latitude  40°  25',  W.  longitude  3°  40'. 


<C" 


414  omo.  „ 

*v 

Zanesville,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Muskingum  county,  is  situated  on 
the  cast  hank  of  Muskingum  River,  just  below  the  falls.  On  these  falls 
are  a number  of  manufacturing  mills  driven  by  water  power,  among 
which  are  several  flouring  and  saw  mills,  an  oil  mill,  a rolling  mill,  a nail 
machine,  two  glass  houses,  a woollen  factory,  and  three  printing  offices. 
Two  handsome  bridges  across  the  Muskingum  connect  the"  town  with 
West  Zanesville  and  Putnam,  so  as  to  identify  them  with  the  town. 
Taken  altogether  the  inhabitants  amount  to  more  than  4,000.  It  contains 
beside,  a handsome  court  house,  21  mercantile  stores,  a Presbyterian, 
Baptist,  Catholic,  and  a Methodist  church,  and  317  dwelling  houses, 
some  of  which  make  a show  of  splendor.  Zanesville  is  beginning  to 
manufacture  largely  in  iron,  and  promises  to  become  one  of  the  principal 
manufacturing  towns  in  Ohio.  It  is  situated  in  N.  latitude 40°  W.  longi- 
tude 5°  2',  80  miles  westerly  from  Wheeling  in  Virginia,  61  north-westerly 
from  Marietta,  70  north  from  Chillicothe,  and  58  east  from  Columbus. 

Chillicothe,  the  county  town  of  Ross  county,  is  handsomely  situated 
on  a level  alluvial  plain  on  the  west  bank  of  Scioto,  45  miles  in  a right 
line  from  its  entrance  into  the  Ohio.  The  town  is  bounded  on  the  north 
by  the  Scioto,  and  on  the  south,  at  the  distance  of  three  quarters  of  a mile, 
by  Paint  Creek.  The  principal  streets  run  parallel  with  the  course  of 
the  Scioto.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity,  the  principal  streets 
crossing  each  other  at  right  angles  It  was  laid  off  in  1796,  and  contains 
2,827  inhabitants.  It  contains  two  printing  offices,  a bank,  20  mercan- 
tile stores,  and  two  medical  stores.  It  has  also  four  cotton  spinning  fac- 
tories, a rope  walk,  an  oil  mill,  a fulling  mill,  several  saw  mills,  a paper 
mill,  and  a number  of  flouring  mills,  including  one  of  steam  power? 
either  in  the  town  or  in  the  immediate  vicinity. 

The  Presbyterians,  Methodists,  and  Seceders,  have  each  a church.  It 
has  also  an  academy,  court  house,  jail,  and  a stone  market  house.  From 
the  summit  of  a hill,  rising  abruptly  on  the  south-west  side  of  the  town, 
is  a most  delightful  view  of  the  town  and  circumjacent  country,  inter- 
spersed alternately  with  woods  and  lawns,  through  which  the  Scioto  pur- 
sues a winding  course  to  the  Ohio.  This  town  is  in  the  centre  of  the 
beautiful  and  fertile  Scioto  country.  The  situation  is  favorable,  and 
every  way  delightful;  but  yet  it  did  not  flourish,  until  the  Grand  Canal 
was  cut  through  the  town,  since  which  it  has  received  a new  impulse 
towards  prosperity,  promising  that  it  will  attain  the  importance  to  which 
its  fortunate  position  entitles  it. 

In  the  midst  of  this  town  formerly  stood  one  of  the  most  interesting 
mounds  of  the  cone  shaped  form.  In  leveling  it  for  the  purpose  of  build- 
ing lots,  great  quantities  of  human  bones  were  found  in  it.  Chillicothe 


# 


OHIO, 


415 


is  55  miles  south  of  Columbus,  75  north-east  from  Maysville  in  Kentucky, 
and  93  north-east  from  Cincinnati.  N.  latitude  89°  20',  W.  longitude 
5°  53k 

Marietta,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Washington  county,  is  beautifully 
situated  a little  above  the  mouth  of  Muskingum  River.  It  contains  two 
churches,  an  academy,  the  public  county  buildings,  two  printing  offices,  a 
bank,  20  stores,  about  90  houses,  and  the  whole  township  1,914  inhabit- 
ants. The  people  are  noted  for  their  industry  and  sobriety,  and  the 
politeness  and  urbanity  of  their  manners. 

Ships  were  formerly  built  here;  but  from  some  cause  the  business  has 
been  discontinued.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile  around  the  town,  and 
it  has  many  advantages  of  position.  But  it  has  not  flourished  like  some 
other  towns.  One  cause  may  be,  that  it  has  experienced  more  than  once 
inundations  of  the  river,  in  some  of  which  the  water  has  risen  in  the 
principal  streets  eight  or  ten  feet.  Great  numbers  of  buildings,  barns 
and  cattle  were  swept  away.  It  has  also  experienced  severe  sickness. 
But  its  extraordinary  fertility,  and  its  natural  advantages  will  cause  it  to 
become  a large  town.  It  was  one  of  the  first  settled  towns  in  the  state, 
and  was  originally  laid  out  by  the  Ohio  Company,  in  1787.  In  the  fol- 
lowing spring,  it  was  settled  by  eight  families.  The  first  settlers  were 
from  New  England.  Among  the  founders  of  this  establishment  was 
General  Putnam,  whose  name  and  character  are  recorded  in  the  annals  of 
the  state.  It  is  315  miles  from  Washington,  93  from  Chiilicothe,  186 
from  Cincinnati,  and  109  south-eastwardly  from  Columbus.  N.  latitude 
39°  25',  W.  longitude  4°  28'. 

Lancaster,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Fairfield  county,  situated  nearly  in 
the  centre  of  it,  is  entirely  an  inland  place.  It  is  near  the  source  of 
Hockhocking  River,  on  the  road  from  Zanesville  to  Chiilicothe.  It  is  a 
large,  handsome,  and  well  built  village.  A considerable  number  of  its 
inhabitants  are  Germans.  It  contains  250  houses,  and  1,535  inhabitants. 
It  has  a number  of  public  buildings,  as  a court  house,  town  house,  ma- 
sonic hall,  an  academy,  several  respectable  schools,  4 churches,  12  stores, 
a bank,  and  two  printing  offices,  from  each  of  which  are  issued  two 
weekly  papers,  in  the  English  and  German  languages.  It  is  a place  of 
great  mechanical  enterprize  and  industry,  and  connected,  as  it  is,  by  a 
lateral  cut,  with  the  great  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal,  it  will  no  longer  suffer 
from  the  inconvenience  of  its  inland  position,  and  will  become  a place  of 
importance.  It  is  central  to  a large  and  populous  country,  and  is  situated 
28  miles  south  of  Columbus,  and  36  south-westerly  from  Zanesville. 

New  Lisbon,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Columbiana,  is  situated  on  a 
branch  of  the  Little  Beaver,  14  miles  from  the  Ohio.  It  contains  a 
court  house,  jail,  bank,  two  churches,  six  public  houses,  nine  stores,  and 


416 


OHIO. 


in  the  township,  2,183  inhabitants.  It  has  four  merchant,  and  four  saw 
mills,  a paper  mill,  two  woollen  factories,  a fulling  mill  and  carding  ma- 
chine. It  is  situated  56  miles  north-westerly  from  Pittsburgh,  and  160 
north-easterly  from  Columbus.  N.  latitude  40°  46',  W.  longitude  3° 
52'. 

Galliopolis  is  the  chief  town  of  Gallia  county.  It  has  a court  house, 
jail,  two  churches,  academy,  three  steam  mills,  a printing  office,  80  houses, 
and  12  stores.  It  was  originally  settled  by  French  immigrants.  They 
had  been  deceived  by  speculators;  and  suffered  severely  by  bilious  fevers, 
in  becoming  acclimated.  Some  left  in  discouragement,  many  died,  and 
the  number  of  the  original  French  settlers  is  small. 

St.  Clairsville  is  an  inland  town,  the  county  town  of  Belmont  county, 
and  is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  surrounded  by  hilly,  but  fertile  lands. 
It  has  a court  house,  jail,  market  house,  printing  office,  a bank,  15  stores, 
and  800  inhabitants.  It  is  on  the  great  road  from  Wheeling  to  Cincinnati, 
and  distant  11  miles  west  from  the  former  place. 

Portsmouth,  the  chief  town  of  Scioto  county,  is  situated  on  the  eastern 
bank  of  the  Scioto,  just  above  its  junction  with  the  Ohio.  A great 
amount  of  commission  business  for  the  Scioto  country  is  done  here ; and 
the  position  for  internal  commerce  with  the  state  is  exceedingly  advan- 
tageous-. There  is  a bank,  court  house,  jail,  printing  office,  18  stores,  a 
book  store,  four  commission  stores,  one  druggist,  20  mechanical  estab- 
lishments, two  churches,  a steam  mill,  a market  house,  and  1,063  inhab- 
itants. The  great  Ohio  Canal  here  communicates  with  the  Ohio,  which 
must  at  once  render  this  town  a place  of  great  consequence.  It  is  45 
miles  south  of  Chillicothe,  and  90  in  the  same  direction  from  Columbus. 
N.  latitude  38°  48',  W.  longitude  5°  53'. 

Circleville,  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Scioto,  is  the  county  town  of  Pick- 
away county.  In  the  limits  of  the  town  are  two  Indian  mounds,  the  one 
square  and  the  other  circular.  The  town  derives  its  name  from  being 
chiefly  built  in  the  limits  of  the  circular  mound.  These  mounds  are 
among  the  most  interesting  in  the  western  country,  and  are  described 
elsewhere.  The  town  contains  a handsome  court  house,  a printing  office* 
market  house,  10  stores,  and  various  mechanic  shops.  The  rich  Picka- 
way plains  or  prairies  are  near  this  place.  The  adjacent  wooded  lands  of 
Lower  Walnut  Creek  are  equally  rich ; and  this  town,  central  to  such 
extents  of  fertile  soil,  must  become  of  importance.  The  Ohio  Canal 
passes,  and  here  crosses  the  Scioto  by  the  largest  aqueduct  on  the  line  of 
the  canal.  It  has  recently  exhibited  a rapid  progress,  and  contains  1,100 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  twenty  miles  south  of  Columbus,  nineteen 
north  of  Chillicothe,  and  twenty  miles  west  of  Lancaster.  N.  latitude 
39°  26',  W.  longitude  5°  53'. 


OHIO, 


417 


Urbana  is  the  county  town  of  Champaigne  county,  near  Mad  River. 
It  contains  a court  house,  jail,  printing  office,  a Methodist  and  Presby- 
terian church,  a market  house,  9 stores,  120  houses,  and  1,003  inhabit- 
ants. It  is  distant  43  miles  north-west  from  Columbus.  N.  latitude 
40°  3',  W.  longitude  6°  4'. 

Xenia,  the  county  town  of  Green  county,  is  situated  on  Shawnee 
Creek,  and  contains  a court  house,  jail,  three  churches,  two  printing 
offices,  10  stores,  and  919  inhabitants.  It  is  distant  56  miles  south-west 
from  Columbus, 

Dayton,  the  chief  town  of  Montgomery  county,  is  charmingly  situated 
on  the  eastern  bank  of  the  Great  Miami,  just  below  the  confluence  of 
Mad  River,  near  where  the  Miami  Canal  connects  with  the  Miami.  The 
waters  of  Mad  River  are  artificially  conducted  from  that  river  to  the  Miami, 
so  as  to  afford  a great  number  of  mill  seats. 

It  contains  235  houses,  and  135  shops  and  stores,  total  370;  four 
churches,  a court  house,  a market  house,  and  jail.  In  1810  the  popula- 
tion was  383;  in  1820  1,139;  in  1830  2,934.  The  population  of  the 
township  is  6,583.  In  1828  70  buildings  were  erected,  and  probably  a 
greater  number  last  year.  No  town  in  the  state  affords  more  extensive 
water  privileges,  which  are  partly  occupied  by  a number  of  saw  mills, 
grist  mills,  cotton  factories,  and  various  sorts  of  machinery  moved  by 
water. 

The  striking  increase  of  its  prosperity  is  owing  to  its  being  the  termin- 
ating point  of  the  Miami  Canal,  connecting  it  with  Cincinnati.  It  is 
central  to  a rich  and  populous  agricultural  country,  the  trade  of  which  this 
town  commands.  It  is  expected  that  the  canal  will  be  continued  to  lake 
Erie.  It  is  situated  68  miles  south-west  from  Columbus,  and  52  by  land, 
and  67  by  the  canal  from  Cincinnati.  N.  latitude  39°  46'. 

Lebanon  is  the  county  town  for  Warren  county.  It  is  between  two 
small  branches  of  Turtle  Creek.  It  has  the  usual  public  buildings,  two 
churches  of  brick,  and  a jail  of  stone,  two  market  houses,  a bank,  a 
printing  office,  and  a respectable  social  library.  The  surrounding  country 
has  fine  land.  It  contained  in  1820,  1,079  inhabitants.  It  is  distant  80 
miles  south-westerly  from  Columbus;  and  30  miles  north-easterly  from 
Cincinnati.  N.  latitude  39°  25' , W.  longitude  7°  5'. 

Athens  is  the  county  town  of  Athens  county.  It  is  situated  on  an 
elevated  bluff  in  a bend  of  the  Hockhocking,  in  a position  equally  beau- 
tiful and  healthy.  In  this  village  is  located  the  Ohio  University.  There 
is  already  erected  for  the  accommodation  of  this  institution  a handsome 
edifice  three  stories  high.  The  funds,  the  library,  and  philosophical  ap- 
paratus are  respectable;  and  it  promises  to  be  an  institution  of  great 
utility  to  the  interests  of  the  literature  of  the  state.  The  town  contains 

53 


418 


OHIO. 


40  houses,  a number  of  stores,  a court  house,  a jail,  and  has  several 
mills  on  the  river  in  its  vicinity,  and  750  inhabitants.  It  is  73  miles  south- 
east from  Columbus,  41  westerly  from  Marietta,  and  52  east  from  Chilli- 
cothe.  N.  latitude  39°  23',  W.  longitude  5°  5'. 

Cleaveland,  situated  on  the  southern  shore  of  lake  Erie,  is  the  county 
town  of  Cuyahoga  county.  Its  position  is  at  the  mouth  of  Cuyahoga 
River.  During  the  late  war,  it  was  a depot  of  provisions;  and  a place 
where  many  boats,  and  lake  crafts  were  built;  and  it  is  a noted  point  of 
embarkation  on  the  lake.  It  is  a growing  place,  having  four  churches, 
a court  house,  jail,  an  academy,  180  houses,  40  stores,  9 groceries,  6 
taverns,  and  1,200  inhabitants.  It  is  distant  130  miles  westward  from 
Pittsburgh,  and  150  north-easterly  from  Columbus.  N.  latitude  41°  31', 
W.  longitude  4°  44'.  The  great  Ohio  Canal  here  connects  with  the  lake, 
and  passes  through  the  central  parts  of  Ohio,  preserving  for  some  distance 
a course  parallel  to  the  Scioto ; and  finally  connecting  with  the  Ohio  near 
the  mouth  of  that  river.  This  town,  intermediate  between  Buffalo  and 
Cincinnati,  and  the  depot  of  the  vast  amounts  of  merchandise  destined 
east  and  west,  will  not  fail  soon  to  become  an  important  town. 

Sandusky,  in  Huron  county,  on  the  southern  shore  of  Sandusky  Bay,  is 
one  of  the  most  important  ports  on  Lake  Erie.  Its  area  rises  gradually 
from  the  lake,  of  which,  its  passing  sails,  and  the  surrounding  country  it 
commands  a charming  view.  Though  a new  place  it  has  ten  stores,  a 
printing  office,  the  usual  number  of  mechanic  establishments,  public 
houses,  a ship  yard,  a rope  walk  and  9 wharves.  This  is  one  of  the  chief 
points  of  landing  and  embarkation  between  the  Mississipi  valley  and  New 
York,  Buffalo  and  Detroit.  In  1828,  1,319,823  dollars  worth  of  mer- 
chandise was  landed  here.  In  1830  there  were  over  500  arrivals  at  this 
port,  and  about  2,000  wagons  dispatched  with  dry  goods  and  groceries 
for  all  points  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  country  below.  A turnpike, 
now  constructing  will  connect  this  town  with  Columbus.  It  is  distant 
70  miles  south  from  Detroit,  230  south-west  from  Buffalo,  60  west  from 
Cleaveland,  and  106  north  from  Columbus.  N.  latitude  41°  27'.  The 
principal  harbors  on  Lake  Erie,  are  Put-in  Bay,  Maumee  Bay,  Fair  Port, 
and  Ashtabula  Creek. 

Ashtabula,  a post  town  of  Ashtabula  county,  is  situated  two  miles  from 
the  entrance  of  Ashtabula  River  into  the  lake,  and  has  a post  office, 
tavern,  two  churches,  a weekly  newspaper,  and  five  stores.  A turnpike 
connects  it  with  Warren,  the  seat  of  justice  for  Trumbull  county.  A 
sloop  loaded  with  a certain  kind  of  boards  for  clock  making,  departed 
from  this  place  down  the  lake,  the  New-York  canal,  the  Hudson  and 


OHIO 


419 


Long-Island  Sound,  and  arrived  after  a passage  of  25  days  at  New- Haven, 
Connecticut.  A Schooner,  burthen  49  tons,  departed  from  Huron 
county  and  arrived  at  New-York. 

Baltimore,  in  Fairfield  county,  25  miles  south-east  from  Columbus,  is 
situated  on  the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal,  and  has  grown  to  be  a respectable 
village  within  the  three  past  years.  It  already  contains  200  houses,  six 
stores,  a great  number  of  mechanic  establishments,  and  500  inhab- 
itants. 

Massillon,  in  Stark  county,  on  the  east  branch  of  Tuscarawas,  was  laid 
out  in  1828,  and  grew  into  immediate  consequence  from  being  for  a 
considerable  time  the  termination  of  the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal.  It 
contains  a printing  office,  eight  stores,  two  merchant  flour  mills,  four 
ware  houses,  and  a woollen  factory.  It  is  111  miles  north-east  from 
Columbus. 

Newark  is  the  county  town  of  Licking  county.  It  is  the  present  termi- 
nation of  the  Ohio  and  Erie  canal,  176  miles  distant  from  its  outlet  in 
lake  Erie.  It  contains  250  houses,  10  stores,  five  taverns,  two  printing 
offices,  two  ware  houses,  a market  house,  a church,  and  the  usual  county 
buildings.  It  is  33  miles  north  of  Columbus. 

Canton,  the  county  town  for  Stark  county,  contains  200  dwelling 
houses,  215  families,  1496  inhabitants;  two  printing  offices,  two  churches, 
six  schools,  five  ministers,  15  stores,  and  the  usual  number  of  mechanic 
shops.  It  is  120  miles  north-east  of  Columbus 

Warren,  New  Philadelphia,  Wooster,  Mansfield,  Coshocton,  Somerset, 
Delaware,  Worthington,  Franklinton,  Hillsboro,  Piketon,  Springfield, 
Pickaway,  Troy,  Eaton,  Hamilton,  and  NewT  Richmond,  are  most  of  them 
county  towns,  and  some  of  them  will  compare  in  size  with  those  we  have 
mentioned, 

Fifty  other  incipient  villages  might  be  named,  which  are  rapidly 
growing  to  consequence,  and  which,  seen  by  the  traveller,  excite  surprize, 
that  he  has  not  heard  them  named.  Such  is  the  march  of  town  making 
and  population,  that  the  scene  is  shifting  under  the  eye,  and  the  descrip- 
tion of  towns  and  villages,  that  is  accurate  this  year,  may  be  wide  from 
accuracy  the  next.  Another  inconvenience  results  from  this  order  of 
things.  Towns  are  originated  in  such  numbers  and  rapidity,  as  to  have 
outgrown  the  invention  of  the  founders.  For  example,  there  are  19 
townships  of  the  name  of  Jefferson,  and  24  of  the  name  of  Washington. 
Other  names  of  places  are  repeated  from  four  to  ten  times.  While  this 
circumstance  is  unfavorable  to  the  right  direction  of  missives  sent  by 
mail,  it  argues  strongly  the  matter  of  fact  character  of  the  people,  who 
can  make  fields,  towns,  mills,  and  legislators,  easier  than  the  latter 
can  task  their  invention  for  names. 


420 


OHIO. 


The  following  military  positions  occur  so  often  in  the  history  of  thi&? 
state,  that  we  deem  it  important  to  give  their  relative  position.  Fort 
Defiance  is  situated  at  the  junction  of  Au  Glaize  and  Maumee  rivers,  50 
miles  south-west  of  Fort  Meigs.  Fort  Loramie  is  on  the  head  waters 
of  the  Big  Miami,  and  one  of  the  boundary  positions  referred  to  in  the 
Greenville  treaty.  Fort  Meigs  was  erected  in  1813,  on  the  south-eastern 
bank  of  the  Maumee,  a few  miles  from  its  mouth,  at  the  lower  rapids  of 
the  river;  distant  southerly  from  Detroit,  70  miles.  It  is  noted  for  the 
siege,  which  it  sustained  from  the  British  and  Indians  in  April  and  May? 
1813.  Fort  Recovery  was  established  by  general  Wayne.  The  disas- 
trous defeat  of  our  troops  commanded  by  general  St.  Clair,  by  the 
Indians,  occurred  here,  in  1795.  It  is  situated  23  miles  northwardly  of 
Fort  Loramie.  Fort  Greenville  is  one  of  the  most  noted  points  in  the 
history  of  Ohio;  and  was  one  of  the  first  fortifications  erected  in  the  country* 
It  is  in  the  present  limits  of  Darke  county,  and  a few  miles  east  of  the  western 
limits  of  this  state.  Here,  in  1795,  was  concluded  the  celebrated  treaty 
of  general  Wayne  with  the  savages,  after  his  memorable  victory  over  them. 
From  this  treaty,  the  country  began  to  increase  in  population. 

Roads  and  Canals.  The  common  public  roads,  as  might  be  inferred, 
are  too  numerous  to  be  named.  The  country  being  level,  they  seldom 
have  the  inconvenience  of  being  hilly;  but  the  soil  being  deep  and  loamy, 
and  most  of  them  little  wrought,  in  wet  weather  and  in  winter  they 
are  exceedingly  bad.  There  are  five  considerable  turnpikes,  beside  many 
shorter  ones.  The  length  of  the  first  is  16  miles;  of  the  second  48;  of 
the  third  51 ; of  the  fourth  108.  This  connects  Sandusky  with  Columbus? 
and  is  not  yet  complete.  The  fifth  is  the  McAdamized  road  leading  from 
Cincinnati  to  the  interior,  of  which  the  first  division  only  is  completed. 
The  national  road  is  completed  30  or  40  miles  west  from  the  Ohio;  and 
is  McAdamized  in  the  best  manner. 

The  grand  canal,  connecting  Lake  Erie  and  the  Ohio,  passes  nearly 
through  the  centre  of  the  state,  from  Cleaveland  on  the  lake  to  Ports- 
mouth on  the  Ohio.  The  whole  distance  is  308  miles  Lateral  cuts 
are  made,  or  making,  amounting  to  40  miles  more.  The  canal  is  of  the 
same  depth,  and  dimensions  and  construction  with  the  great  New-York 
canal.  It  is  nearly  completed,  and  will  be  in  full  operation  in  1832. 
This  wonderful  work  of  uniting  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  and  Atlan- 
tic has  already  imparted  a new  aspect  to  the  country,  through  which  it 
passes,  and  has  in  many  places  quadrupled  the  value  of  the  land  near  its 
course. 

The  Miami  canal,  67  miles  in  length,  connects  Cincinnati  with  Dayton. 
To  this  a considerable  lateral  cut  is  expected  to  be  made  from  Lebanon. 
Others  are  in  contemplation.  These  noble  and  beautiful  modes  of  trans- 


OHIO. 


421 


port  will  soon  supersede  the  draught  of  beasts  of  burden  on  deep  and 
muddy  roads,  in  all  practicable  directions.  The  cost  of  these  canals  will 
be  between  three  and  four  millions  of  dollars. 

Surveys  have  been  made,  and  grants  of  land  from  the  General  Gov- 
ernment obtained  for  continuing  the  Dayton  Canal  to  Lake  Erie. 

Militia.  Few  descriptions  of  the  inhabitants  are  exempted  from  mili- 
tary duty.  The  militia  of  this  state  is  principally  composed  of  hardy 
agriculturists,  and  exceeds  150,000  men. 

Penitentiary.  This  establishment,  at  Columbus,  is  a humane  and 
efficient  one.  Of  the  great  numbers,  who  have  been  confined  here 
nearly  half  have  been  pardoned  out. 

Government.  ‘The  legislative  authority  is  vested  in  a Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives,  both  of  which,  collectively,  are  styled  the 
General  Assembly  of  Ohio.  The  members  of  both  branches  are  elected 
by  counties,  or  districts  composed  of  counties,  according  to  population. 
The  representatives  are  chosen  for  one  year;  and  for  eligibility  a man 
must  be  at  least  25  years  of  age,  have  resided  in  the  state  at  least  one 
year,  and  paid  a tax.  Their  number  must  never  exceed  72  nor  be  less 
than  36.  The  Senate  is  composed  of  members  elected  for  two  years, 
who  must  not  exceed  one  half,  nor  fall  short  of  one-third  of  the  number  in 
the  House  of  Representatives.  The  present  numbers  are  33  Senators, 
and  69  Representatives.  A Senator  must  be  at  least  30  years  of  age, 
and  have  resided  two  years  in  the  district  from  which  he  is  chosen.  The 
General  Assembly  has  the  sole  power  of  enacting  all  the  state  laws ; the 
assent  or  signature  of  the  Governor  not  being  necessary  in  any  case  what- 
ever. 

‘The  judiciary  system  comprises  three  several  grades  of  courts,  viz: 
The  Supreme  Court,  Courts  of  Common  Pleas,  and  Justice’s  Courts. 
The  justices  of  the  peace  are  chosen  triennially  by  the  people  themselves, 
in  each  township  respectively.  They  are  conservators  of  the  peace 
throughout  the  country;  but  have  no  civil  jurisdiction  out  of  their  town- 
ships. The  state  is  divided  into  nine  judicial  circuits  for  Courts  of 
Common  Pleas,  in  each  of  which  is  a presiding  judge,  styled  President; 
and  in  each  county  of  which  the  district  is  composed,  three  associate 
judges,  all  elected  by  the  legislature,  for  7 years.  These  courts  are  held 
three  times  a year  in  each  county.  The  Supreme  Court  consists  of  four 
judges,  who  hold  a court  once  a year  in  each  county  throughout  the  state. 
They  are  likewise  chosen  by  the  legislature  for  seven  years. 

‘The  supreme  executive  authority  is  vested  in  a Governor  chosen 
biennially  by  the  people.  He  must  be  30  years  of  age,  and  have  resided 
in  the  state  at  least  four  years.  He  is  commander-in-chief  of  the  militia, 
and  commissions  all  officers  in  the  state,  both  civil  and  military.  In  case 


422 


OHIO. 


of  disability,  ov  vacancy  in  his  place,  the  Speaker  of  the  Senate  acts  as 
Governor,  until  the  next  succeeding  regular  election.  The  qualifications 
of  a freeman  are  the  age  of  21,  resident  in  the  state,  and  the  payment 
of  a tax.’ 

In  whatever  aspect  we  contemplate  this  wonderful  state,  the  mind  is 
affected  with  surprise  and  pleasure.  We  experience  surprise,  for  the 
history  of  colonies  affords  no  similar  example  of  a colony  of  equal  num- 
bers, improvement  and  prosperity  so  rapidly  springing  from  a solid  forest 
wilderness,  with  no  adventitious  aid,  except  the  fertility  of  its  lands,  the 
freedom  of  its  institutions,  and  the  enterprising  character  of  the  American 
people.  The  real  lover  of  freedom,  who  firmly  believes  in  the  strength 
and  perpetuity  of  our  institutions,  contemplates  the  prospect  with  un- 
mingled pleasure.  Ohio,  all  things  considered,  and  her  character  and 
institutions  carefully  analyzed,  is  the  most  completely  democratic  com- 
munity with  which  we  are  acquainted.  Here,  if  the  enemies  of  demo- 
cracy were  to  be  credited,  ought  to  be  found  the  most  revolting  effects  of 
ferocity  and  misrule.  Insurrection  and  anarchy  and  lawless  violence 
should  be  the  order  of  things.  This  state,  on  the  contrary,  is  making 
great  exertions  to  diffuse  general  education;  and  there  is  not,  perhaps,  in 
the  world,  a more  peaceable  and  orderly  community,  or  one  where  the 
people  are  more  entirely  obedient  to  the  laws. 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA 


That  part  of  Pennsylvania  watered  by  the  Ohio  and  its  branches,  is 
situated  west  of  the  great  dividing  ridge  of  the  Allbghanies,  that  separates 
the  waters  of  the  Atlantic  from  those  of  the  Ohio.  Among  these  ridges 
the  principal  are  Peter’s  Mountain,  Tuscarora  Mountain,  Sideling  Hill, 
Jack’s  Mountain,  and  Bald  Eagle  Ridge.  West  of  these  is  the  Great 
Alleghany  Ridge,  which  separates  between  the  eastern  and  western 
waters.  The  base  of  this  ridge  is  1,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
and  the  elevation  of  the  mountain  above  the  base  is  from  1,000  to  1,500 
feet.  About  one-third  of  tile  surface  of  Pennsylvania  is  west  of  these 
mountains,  and  watered  by  the  Ohio  and  its  waters.  The  face  of  the 
country  generally  is  hilly,  rolling,  and  in  some  places  mountainous. 
Except  in  the  regions  about  Lake  Erie,  very  little  of  West  Pennsylvania 
can  be  called  level.  West  Pennsylvania  contains  considerably  more  than 
200,000  inhabitants. 

There  is  a college  at  Cannonsburgh,  in  an  elevated  and  pleasant  siua- 
tion.  It  is  an  institution  of  considerable  importance,  but  too  near  the 
college  at  Washington  to  admit  the  supposition,  that  both  the  institutions 
can  flourish.  The  college  edifice  makes  a respectable  appearance. 
The  college  at  Washington  is  situated  in  that  pleasant  village,  in  the 
centre  of  a populous  and  thriving  country.  It  has  a collegiate  founda- 
tion, considerable  funds  and  endowments,  and  has  graduated  between 
20  and  30  students  in  some  years. 

The  system  of  common  schools  in  West  Pennsylvania  does  not  mate- 
rially differ  from  that  east  of  the  mountains.  There  is  less  inequality 
of  condition  among  the  people,  and  the  modes  of  conducting  schools  are 
more  similar  to  those  of  New  England. 


424 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA. 


The  inhabitants  are  generally  a hardy,  robust,  and  industrious  race; 
in  their  habits,  pursuits,  and  modes  of  tiunking-as  well  as  their  persons, 
much  resembling  the  people  of  New  England,  The  climate,  though 
something  milder,  is  not  much  unlike  that  of  Connecticut.  The  people, 
like  those  of  New  England,  are  generally  addicted  to  habits  of  religious 
worship,  and  to  connecting  themselves  to  some  religious  society.  Their 
trade  is  with  Pittsburgh,  or  Canada,  and  New  York,  by  the  way  of  Lake 
Erie.  Beside  the  county  towns,  West  Pennsylvania  contains  the  following 
considerable  villages.  Connelsville,  on  the  east  side  of  the  Youghiogeny, 
noted  for  the  important  mills  and  manufactories  in  its  neighborhood, 
contains  800  inhabitants. 

Brownsville  is  situated  on  the  east  side  of  the  Monongahela  River. 
The  great  national  road  passes  through  it.  It  is  surrounded  with  fine 
orchards  and  fields,  in  a rich,  picturesque,  and  romantic  country,  and  has 
some  fine  stone  buildings  in  and  about  it,  and  about  1,200  inhabitants. 
Bridgeport  is  a village  opposite  to  Brownsville.  Cannonsburgh  is  on  the 
west  side  of  Chartier’s  Creek,  8 miles  north  of  Washington.  It  is  sur- 
rounded by  a hilly,  but  fertile  country.  Erie,  beautifully  situated  on  the 
south  side  of  Lake  Erie,  is  a thriving  village.  It  is  a stopping  place  for 
steam  boats  that  pass  up  the  lake,  and  used  to  be  called  Presq’  Isle.  It 
is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Erie  county,  and  in  N.  latitude  42°  21',  120 
miles  north  of  Pittsburgh.  A portage  from  the  lake  to  the  navigable 
waters  of  the  Alleghany  River,  commences  here.  The  distance  is  15 
miles;  and  the  two  places  are  connected  by  a turnpike.  Immense  quan- 
tities of  salt  used  to  be  transported  over  this  portage.  It  was  brought 
from  the  Great  Saline  in  New  York,  and  was  sent  down  the  Ohio,  for  the 
supply  of  the  country  on  its  waters.  But  salt  is  now  made  so  cheaply 
and  abundantly  ton  the  Ohio  and  its  waters,  that  this  trade  is  in  a great 
measure  suspended.  A great  deal  of  trade,  however,  still  passes  this 
way,  both  that  of  articles  for  New  York  from  the  western  country,  and  of 
articles  sent  from  New  York  to  the  western  country.  In  the  year  1809, 
52,000  barrels  of  salt  were  sent  across  this  turnpike  to  Pittsburgh. 

Waterford  is  situated  on  the  north  bank  of  French  Creek,  a considera 
ble  river  of  the  Alleghany ; and  is  the  place  where  the  portage  from  Erie 
terminates.  It  is  a village  of  considerable  business,  and  has  a post  office, 
a number  of  stores,  inns,  and  commission  warehouses,  and  is  15  miles 
south  of  Erie.  Meadville  is  near  French  Creek,  and  has  several  stores, 
inns,  and  public  buildings,  a post  office  and  printing  office,  two  churches, 
and  a college,  under  the  care  of  the  Rev.  Mr.  Alden.  Dr.  Bently,  late  of 
Salem,  Massachusetts,  bequeathed  a very  considerable  library  to  this 
college.  Franklin,  Kittanning,  and  Freeport  are  inconsiderable  villages 
between  this  place  and  Pittsburgh.  A considerable  tract  of  country  in 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA, 


425 


the  south-West  angle  of  New- York  is  watered  by  the  head  waters  of  the 
Alleghany.  In  New-York  principally,  and  along  the  upper  courses  of 
the  Alleghany  are  found  |jbse  deep  and  noble  pine  forests,  whence  are 
carried  the  boards  anoYumbcr,  which  supply  the  greater  part  of  the 
demand  for  this  article  in  all  the  western  country,  and  quite  to  New 
Orleans.  Nearly  30,000,000  feet  of  plank  descend  the  Alleghany  annu- 
ally In  return,  keel  boats  carry  back  whiskey,  iron,  castings,  cider, 
apples,  bacon,  and  many  other  domestic  articles.  The  brig  Dean,  and 
the  Sally  Ross,  and  several  other  vessels  of  bur  then  have  been  launched 
on  the  Alleghany,  and  have  descended  thence  to  New  Orleans.  The 
Alleghany  is  400  yards  wide  at  its  mouth.  Among  the  natural  curios- 
ities in  this  region  is  Oil  Creek,  which  enters  into  the  Alleghany.  The 
spring  source  of  this  creek  yields  great  quantities  of  bituminous,  or  unc- 
tuous matter,  like  petroleum;  and  probably  is  that  substance.  It  is 
taken  internally,  as  a medicine;  and  the  rheumatic  find  relief, by  bathing 
the  joints  affected  with  that  complaint,  with  this  oil.  Many  people  at 
Pittsburgh  keep  this  oil  in  bottles,  and  attach  much  confidence  to  it,  as 
containing  some  mysterious  efficacy. 

All  parts  of  the  western  country  seem  admirably  accommodated 
the  one  to  the  other;  the  one  part  supplying  what  the1  other  wanted. 
The  country  on  the  Alleghany  is  much  of  it  broken,  sterile,  and  not 
calculated  to  become  a rich  farming  country.  It  contains  inexhaustible 
supplies  of  the  finest  lumber;  and  innumerable  mill  seats.  Pittsburgh, 
and  the  country  below  it,  can  amply  supply  all  the  wants  of  this  region, 
as  regards  produce,  manufactures  and  articles  of  iron  fabric.  In  return, 
mills  with  wafer-power,  are  very  uncommon  about  Pittsburgh,  and  the 
adjacent  country  naturally  calls  for  the  lumber  of  the  Alleghany.  Steam 
boats  have  recently  ascended  this  river  almost  to  its  source. 

In  describing  the  Alleghany  and  its  waters,  we  have  named  the  prin- 
cipal streams  from  Pennsylvania  and  New-York,  that  swell  that  fine 
river.  There  is  one  creek,  that  we  have  not  mentioned;  a tributary  of 
the  Alleghany,  that  deserves  mention  were  it  only  for  the  name,  Muhul- 
buctitum. 

Economy,  the  present  seat  of  Mr.  Rapp’s  establishment,  formerly  at 
New  Harmony,  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Ohio,  18  miles  below 
Pittsburgh.  It  contains  many  factories,  a large  church,  a commodious 
hotel,  a museum  containing  a music  room  and  dining  hall,  all  laid  out 
with  the  utmost  neatness  and  regularity,  and  850  inhabitants.  At  the  east 
end  of  the  town  is  a park  containing  deer,  a large  vineyard  and  a beauti- 
ful orchard.  It  is  almost  exclusively  a manufacturing  establishment. 
It  is  a community  of  a peculiar  character. 

54 


426 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA# 


Pittsburgh,  in  the  extent  of  her  manufactures,  is  the  only  rival  of 
Cincinnati,  in  the  West.  In  population,  wealth  and  importance  it  is  next 
to  that  city;  and  the  third  in  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi.  A more 
charming  spot  for  the  site  of  a city  could  scarcely  be  selected.  No  place 
is  surrounded  by  more  charmingly  rounded  and  romantic  hills ; and  the 
boundless  view  of  hill  and  dale,  the  Alleghany  bringing  down  its  northern 
tribute  on  the  one  hand,  and  the  Monongahela  its  southern  offering  on 
the  other,  the  singular  bluffs  of  these  rivers,  their  conjunction,  the  broad 
and  beautiful  Ohio,  calmly  commencing  its  course  of  1,000  miles 
and  winding  away  among  its  deep  forests,  and  shores  shaded  by  noble  syc- 
amores, the  town,  its  surrounding  vaflies,  and  the  whole  scene  taken 
together,  as  seen  from  the  adjoining  hills,  constitute  as  fine  a landscape, 
as  can  well  be  imagined.  The  town  is  built  on  an  alluvial  plain,  in  the 
delta  of  the  two  rivers,  where  they  unite  to  form  the  Ohio.  Over  the 
Alleghany  is  a high  and  beautiful  plain  bounded  in  the  distance  by  bold 
and  rugged  hills.  The  coal  hill,  across  the  Monongahela,  rises  more 
than  300  feet;  and  almost  perpendicularly  impends  a town,  between  it 
and  the  river.  On  the  Monongahela  side  is  a manufacturing  village, 
called  Birmingham ; and  to  match  it,  on  the  Alleghany  side  another  manu-' 
facturing  town.  Both  are  connected  with  the  city  by  noble  and 
long  bridges  over  these-two  rivers. 

It  is  well  known  that  the  site  of  this  town  was  selected  at  an  early 
period  in  the  French  wars,  as  an  important  point  in  the  great  chain  of 
posts,  which  was  to  connect  Canada  with  Louisiana.  It  had  been,  for 
a considerable  time,  a depot  of  French  goods  for  the  savages;  a place  of 
outfits  for  the  trade  of  the  Ohio,  and  a military  post,  to  defend  the 
country  against  the  occupancy  and  settlement  of  the  English,  and  to 
secure  to  the  inhabitants  the  monopoly  of  the  trade  with  the  savages; 
when  Brad  dock  was  sent  to  dispossess  the  French,  and  capture  the  post 
of  Fort  Du  Quesne,  as  it  was  then  called.  After  the  fatal  battle,  in 
which  he  was  mortally  wounded,  and  in  which  Washington  gained  his 
first  laurels,  colonel  Grant  with  800  Caledonians  was  defeated  here  on 
the  hill,  which  still  bears  his  name.  Not  long  after,  it  came  into  the 
possession  of  the  British,  and  they  built  a fort  at  the  expense  of  60,000 
pounds  sterling.  It  was  built  under  the  superintendence  of  lord  Stanwin. 
In  1760,  a considerable  town  arose  about  the  fort.  Beautiful  gardens 
and  fruit  orchards  were  planted ; but  on  the  breaking  out  of  the  Indian 
war,  in  1763,  the  inhabitants  again  retired  into  the  fort.  The  present 
town  of  Pittsburgh  dates  back  to  1765.  Its  plan  was  enlarged,  and  it 
was  re-surveyed,  in  1784.  It  then  belonged  to  the  Penn  family,  as  a part 
of  their  hereditary  manor.  By  them  it  was  sold.  The  Indian  wars,  and 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA. 


427 


the  troubles  in  the  western  country  prevented  its  rapid  growth,  until  the 
year  1793.  Since  that  time,  it  has  increased  on  the  same  scale  of 
improvement  with  the  most  growing  towns  of  the  West. 

It  is  supplied  by  water  by  a high  pressure  steam  engine  of  84  horse 
power,  which  raises  the  water  116  feet  above  the  Alleghany  River.  A 
million  and  a half  gallons  of  water  can  be  raised  in  24  hours.  These 
works  went  into  operation  in  1828. 

The  churches  in  this  city  are  a Baptist,  Roman  Catholic,  Covenanters5, 
Seceders’,  a Methodist  church,  German  Lutheran  church,  Union  church, 
Episcopal  church,  first  and  second  Presbyterian  churches,  Unitarian 
church,  second  Methodist  church,  and  an  African  church,  making  a 
total  of  13.  The  other  public  buildings  are  the  Western  University 
of  Pennsylvania,  Pittsburgh  High  School,  Pittsburgh  Exchange, 
Mansion  House,  and  Hotel,  Lambdin’s  museum,  the  U.  S bank  and 
the  Pittsburgh  bank.  There  are  11  large  establishments  of  iron  found- 
ries, in  which  wer$  manufactured  from  pigs,  in  1830,  5,339  tons.  There 
are  six  rolling  mills  and  iron  works  with  nail  factories  attached,  in  which 
were  manufactured  in  the  same  year  7,950  tons  of  pigs  into  blooms; 
and  2,805  tons  into  nails.  There  are  four  large  cotton  factories,  in  the 
largest  of  which  are  10,000  spindles,  spinning  1,400  pounds  of  yam  weekly. 
There  are  two  large  establishments  of  glassworks;  and  270  other  large 
manufacturing  establishments  of  a miscellaneous  character.  The 
suburbs  of  Pittsburgh  are  Alleghany  Town,  Northern  Liberties,  Birming- 
ham on  the  south  bank  of  the  Monongahela,  Lawrenceville-East  Liberty, 
and  remainder  of  Pitt  township.  Population  of  the  city  proper  12,540  5 
and  of  the  suburbs  9,983.  Total,  22,433. 

The  town  is  compactly,  and  in  some  streets  handsomely  built;  although 
the  universal  use  of  pit  coal  for  culinary  and  manufacturing  purposes  has 
carried  such  quantities  of  fine  black  matter,  driven  off  in  the  smoke  into 
the  air,  and  deposited  it  on  the  walls  of  the  houses,  and  every  thing,  that  can 
be  blackened  with  coal  smoke,  as  to  have  given  the  town  a gloomy  aspect. 
Its  position  and  advantages,  as  a manufacturing  town,  and  its  acknowl- 
edged healthfulness  will  continue,  however,  to  render  it  a place  of  attrac- 
tion for  builders,  manufacturers  and  capitalists. 

At  the  present  time  the  following  articles  are  manufactured  on  a great 
scale.  Iron  mongery  of  every  description,  steam  engines,  and  enginery, 
and  iron  work  in  general ; cutlery  of  all  descriptions ; glass  and  paper 
cotton,  and  woollens,  pottery,  chemicals,  tin,  and  copper  ware  are  manu- 
factured, and  exported  to  a great  extent.  Boat  and  steam  boat  building 
have  been  pursued  here  on  a greater  scale,  than  in  any  other  towm  in  the 
western  country.  So  long  ago  as  1814,  4,055  waggons  of  four  and  six 
horses,  employed,  as  transport  waggons,  passed  between  this  place  and 


428 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA. 


Philadelphia.  Boats  of  the  smaller  kinds  are  continually  departing  down 
the  river  at  all  seasons,  when  the  waters  will  admit.  In  moderate  stages 
of  the  river,  great  numbers  of  steam  boats  arrive,  |and  depart.  Of  course, 
this  place  transacts  a great  amount  of  commission  business  for  all  the 
western  country.  Great  contracts  are  continually  ordered  from  all  the 
towns  on  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi,  for  machinery,  steam 
boat  castings,  and  the  various  manufactures,  that  this  city  supplies. 
The  inexhaustible  supplies  of  excellent  pit  coal,  in  all  directions  in  the 
coal  hills  about  the  town,  furnish  great  facilities  for  keeping  in  operation 
the  great  number  of  steam  manufactories.  The  coal  costs  little  more, 
than  the  simple  expense  of  xligging;  and  there  is  no  fear,  that  the  supply 
will  either  fail,  or  become  difficult  to  procure.  The  present  amount  of 
the  value  of  manufactures  is  supposed  to  be  not  far  from  2,500,000 
dollars  annually.  The  market  is  rich,  and  abundant ; but  much  higher, 
than  in  the  towns  lower  down  the  Ohio.  It  is  believed,  that  the  expense 
of  articles  in  the  Pittsburgh  market  will  compare  pretty  accurately  with 
those  of  Philadelphia.  It  is  still  a place  of  great  resort  for  emigrants 
descending  the  Ohio.  It  has  the  disadvantage  of  having  the  river  shal- 
lower in  low  water  than  at  Wheeling.  Flat  and  keel  boats  can  descend 
the  river  from  the  latter  place,  in  stages  of  water,  that  would  not  admit 
of  it  from  the  former  place. 

Pittsburgh  is  more  entirely  a manufacturing  place,  than  Cincinnati; 
and  more  so  than  any  other  place  in  the  West,  or  perhaps  in  America. 
It  deserves  the  name,  that  has  so  often  been  bestowed  cn  it,  the  Birming- 
ham of  America.  Its  prosperity  probably  depends  less  on  the  fluctuations 
of  the  markets,  the  changes  of  the  times,  and  the  vicissitudes  of  peace 
and  war,  than  any  other  town  in  our  country.  Its  manufactures  are  of 
articles  of  prime  importance,  and  vital  necessity,  which  must  be  con- 
sumed in  all  changes  of  times;  and  which  this  city,  from  its  extensive 
operations,  from  its  long  practice  and  experience,  and  from  the  skill  and 
practised  talents  of  its  manufacturers,  can  furnish  on  as  good  terms,  as 
any  other  place. 

The  inhabitants  are  a mixture  of  all  nations.  Germans  and  Irish 
predominate.  But  there  are  great  numbers  of  English,  Scotch,  French 
and  Swiss;  mechanics  and  artizans,  who  coffie  here  to  bring  their 
mechanical  skill  and  industry  to  a better  market  than  they  could  find 
in  the  old  world.  The  habits  of  the  people  of  the  place  are  those  of  per- 
severing industry,  calculating  carefulness,  distrust  of  strangers,  and  a 
fixed  purpose  to  look  to  their  individual  interests.  They  are  of  all  the 
different  denominations  of  religion,  and  as  moraLas  could  be  expected 
of  a people,  so  situated.  Luxury,  splendor  and  display  are  not  much  in 
fashion  here ; and  the  habits  of  all  the  people  are  frugal  and  economical. 


WEST  PENNSYLVANIA. 


429 


This  city  has  immense  advantages  of  artificial  as  well  as  natural  water 
communications.  The  great  Pennsylvania  canal,  over  500  miles  in 
length,  terminates  here.  Another  canal  is  laid  out  to  connect  it  with 
Lake  Erie  through  Meadville;  and  still  a third  is  proposed  to  the  mouth  of 
Mahoning,  where  it  will  connect  with  a branch  of  the  Ohio  and  Erie 
canal  from  its  summit  head. 

Pittsburgh  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county  of  Alleghany;  and  is 
situated  in  N.  latitude  40°  30',  W.  longitude  4°  40'  from  Philadelphia; 
300  miles  north-west  from  Philadelphia;  352  from  Washington;  335 
from  Lexington,  Kentucky;  1,100  from  New  Orleans  by  land;  and  2,000 
by  water. 


WEST  VIRGINIA 


West  Virginia  probably  bears  a smaller  proportion  to  the  surface  of 
the  whole  state,  than  the  portion  of  the  above  mentioned  state  west  of 
the  Alleghany  Mountains,  does  to  Pennsylvania.  The  Alleghany  ridge 
here,  as  in  Pennsylvania,  separates  the  waters  of  the  Ohio  from  those  of 
the  Potomac  and  the  Atlantic.  The  names  of  the  principal  ranges,  be- 
yond this  continued  chain,  are  Chesnut  Hidge,  and  the  Gauly  Mountains. 
The  face  of  the  country  is  similar  to  that  we  have  been  describing.  A 
considerable  portion  is  covered  with  lofty  and  precipitous  mountains, 
and  vallies  embosomed  within  them.  There  is,  however,  much  cultivable 
country.  Many  of  the  hills  have  table  summits,  and  are  capable  of 
cultivation.  On  the  whole  it  may  be  called  a hilly  country,  with  a 
salubrious  atmosphere;  and  the  people  are  tall,  muscular,  laborious,  and 
frugal  in  their  habits;  having  a much  greater  resemblance,  in  their 
general  manners  and  habits  to  the  people  of  New  England,  than  to  the 
Virginians  east  of  the  mountains.  In  the  dialect  of  the  country,  a dia 
lect  of  universal  use  in  the  West,  the  people  west  of  the  mountains  are 
called ‘Cohoes,’ and  those  east  of  the  mountains ‘Tuckahoes.’  Some  of 
the  planters  have  considerable  gangs  of  slaves;  but  it  is  more  common 
that  the  labor  of  the  family  is  performed  by  the  members  of  it.  The 
people  are  more  in  the  habit  of  forming  themselves  into  religious  societies, 
and  attending  public  worship,  than  the  people  of  the  state  east  of  the 
mountains.  The  staple  products  are  wheat  and  the  grains.  It  is  a fine 
country  for  orchards,  and  there  is  considerable  attention  paid  to  the  culti- 
vation of  fruit. 


431 


JjrWtfST  VIRGINIA. 

A great  many  streams|tise  in  the  mountains,  and  fall  either  into  the 
Monongahela,  the  Kenhawa,  or  the  Ohio.  The  Kenhawa  is  the  only  river 
of  any  importance.  UtTrises  in  the  Alleghany  mountains.  One  of  its 
principal  branches,  the*Green  Briar,  almost  interlocks  with  the  head 
waters  of  the  James’  River,  and  with  those  of  the  Holston  of  Tennessee. 
The  river  is  400  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  in  moderate  stages  of  the 
water,  is  boatable  by  large  boats  to  the  falls,  70  miles  above  its  mouth. 
Here  are  the  most  extensive  salines  in  the  western  country.  There  are  a 
great  number  of  furnaces  constantly  evaporating  the  water.  The  water 
is  found  for  a considerable  distance  round  the  works.  To  obtain  it  they 
bore  from  1 to  200  feet  deep  in  the  earth.  It  is  so  strongly  saline,  that 
from  90  to  130  gallons  only  are  required  for  a bushel  of  salt.  It  is  re- 
markable, that  in  boring  for  this  water,  when  the  auger  had  pierced  the 
different  strata  of  earth,  and  had  reached  the  salt  Water,  it  spouted  up  20 
feel  in  the  air.  The  quantity  made  at  present  at  these  works^  is  from 
200,000  to  300,000  bushels  annually.  It  is,  indeed,  a kind  and  a won- 
derful provision  of  Providence,  that  such  an  ample  and  easy  supply  of  an 
article  so  important  and  indispensible,  should  have  been  thus  bountifully 
supplied  by  nature,  at  such  remote  distances  from  the  sea. 

Chief  Toivns . Wellsburgh,  formerly  called  Charlestown,  is  the  county 
seat  of  Brooke  county.  It  is  handsomely  situated  on  a high  bank  of  the 
Ohio.  It  contains  100  houses,  a court  house,  jail,  post  office,  academy, 
a number  of  inns,  several  stores,  and  two  or  three  large  ware  houses, 
from  which  are  shipped  large  quantities  of  flour  for  the  market  at  New 
Orleans,  There  are  a number  of  valuable  merchant  mills  in  this  vicinity? 
that  ship  their  flour  from  this  place.  It  is  a place  of  considerable  em- 
barkation on  the  Ohio.  Some  considerable  manufactures  of  glass  and 
earthen  or  stone  ware  are  carried  on  here.  It  is  situated  50  miles  south- 
west from  Pittsburgh. 

Wheeling,  the  county  town  for  Ohio  county,  is  situated  on  a high  and 
gravelly,  but  alluvial  ban*  of  the  Ohio,  a little  above  the  mouth  of 
Wheeling  Creek.  The  town  is  surrounded  by  bold  and  precipitous 
hills,  which  are  generally  covered  with  a fine  verdure,  and  contain  inex- 
haustible quantities  of  pit  coal.  These  hills  come  in  so  near  the  river,  as 
to  leave  rather  a small  area  for  the  town.  The  great  national  road  from 
Baltimore  terminates  here ; or  rather  is  continued  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  Ohio.  Stages  and  public  roads  connect  it  with  Pittsburgh.  It  is  the 
first  town  on  the  Ohio  where  certain  embarkation,  in  small  flats  or  keels 
may  be  calculated  upon  in  low  stages  of  the  water.  It  has  a fine  sur- 
rounding country.  There  is  a great  deal  of  rich  land  back  of  it,  along 
Wheeling  Creek.  These  circumstances,  united  to  its  favorable  position 
on  the  Ohio,  impart  many  advantages  to  Wheeling,  Of  course,  few 


432 


WEST  VIRGINIA* 


towns  on  the  Ohio  have  grown  more  rapidly.  A number  of  mail  stages 
arrive  and  depart  here;  and  its  situation  in  regard  to  the  Ohio,  and  the 
national  road,  cause,  that  it  is  a place  of  great  and  constant  resort  for 
travellers.  It  has  a court  house,  jail,  banking  house,  a Presbyterian  and 
Methodist  church,  a market  house,  a book  store,  a printing  office,  a Lan- 
castrian academy,  a library,  and  a number  of  inns,  some  of  them  highly 
respectable.  It  has  a large  number  of  stores  and  commission  ware 
houses,  600  dwelling  houses,  and  5,1 1 1 inhabitants.  It  has  manufactories 
of  cotton,  glass*  earthen  ware,  and  a number  of  considerable  establish- 
ments of  mechanical  fabrics  of  the  common  kinds;  Flat  and  keel  boats 
are  built  here;  and  recently  a number  of  steam  boats  of  the  first  class.- 
There  are  many  reasons  to  suppose,  that  this  place  will  eventually  become 
one  of  the  most  considerable  on  the  Ohio.  The  other  villages  in  West 
Virginia,  on  the  Ohio  and  its  waters  are  Belleville,  Point  Pleasant, 
Greenville,  Abingdon,  Jeffersonville,  Franklin,  and  Jonesville- 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


Length,  250  miles.  Breadth,  135.  Square  miles,  33,950.  Acres, 
21,600,000.  Between  41°  31'  and  45°  40’  N.  latitude;  and  between  5° 
12'  and  10°  W.  longitude.  Bounded  on  the  north  by  the  straits  of  Mich- 
ilimackinac;  east  by  lakes  Huron,  St.  Clair,  and  Erie,  and  their  waters ; 
south  by  Ohio  and  Indiana;  and  west  by  Lake  Michigan. 


Counties. 

CIVIL  DIVISIONS. 

County  Towns. 

Distance  from  Detroit . 

Barry* 

Berrien, 

Niles, 

179  miles, 

Branch, 

Bronson’s  Prairie, 

133 

Brown, 

Menomonic, 

Calhoun, 

Cass, 

Edwardsburgh, 

169 

Chippewa, 

Sault  de  St.  Marie, 

356 

Crawford, 

Prairie  du  Chein, 

Eaton, 

Hillsdale, 

Sylvanus, 

10S 

Ingham, 
low  ay, 

Helena, 

Jackson, 

Jacksonopolis, 

77 

Kalamazoo, 

Prairie  Ronde, 

Lapeer, 

Lenawee, 

Tecumseb, 

63 

Macomb, 

Mickilimackinack,  Mackinack. 

321 

Monroe, 

Monroe, 

36 

Oakland, 

Pontiac, 

26 

Saginom, 
Sanilac, 
Shianessee, 
St.  Clair, 

St.  Clair, 

59 

St.  Josephs, 

White  Pigeon  Prairie, 

St.  Marie, 

Van  Buren, 

Washtenaw, 

Ann  Arbour, 

42 

Wayne, 

Detroit, 

The  census  of 

1630  gives  the  population  of  this  Territory  as  follows 

Whites,  30,848; 

Slaves  270.  Total,  31,128. 

55 


434 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


Michigan  Territory  is  a large  peninsula,  something  resembling  a trL 
angle,  with  its  base  resting  upon  Ohio  and  Indiana.  Three  quarters  of 
its  extent  are  surrounded  by  the  great  lakes,  Huron  and  Michigan.  It  is 
generally  a level  country,  having  no  mountains,  and  not  many  elevations 
that  might  properly  be  called  hills.  The  centre  of  the  peninsula  is  table 
land,  elevated,  however,  not  many  feet  above  the  level  of  the  lakes,  and 
sloping  in  every  direction  to  them.  But,  though  the  general  surface  of 
this  territory  is  level,  there  is  far  less  swampy  and  wet  surface,  than  in  the 
northern  belt  of  Ohio,  adjoining  the  lakes.  The  country  is  divided  into 
nearly  equal  proportions  of  grass  prairies,  like  those  of  Indiana  and  Ohio, 
divided  into  wet  and  dry ; and  extensive  and  deep  forests  of  trees  of  nearly 
the  same  classes  with  those  in  Ohio ; except,  that  here  there  is  an  inter- 
mixture of  white  and  yellow  pine.  A considerable  belt  of  land,  along 
the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Michigan  is  sandy  and  sterile;  and  so  swept 
by  the  bleak  and  desolating  gale  of  the  lake,  as  not  to  promise  much  in  the 
way  of  cultivation.  But  a great  proportion  of  the  lands  of  this  Territory 
are  of  excellent  quality;  and  it  promises  one  day  to  be  a populous  coun- 
try. The  productions  are  the  same  as  those  of  New  York.  Orchards 
flourish  remarkably,  and  this  will  undoubtedly  become  a fine  fruit  country. 

Rivers.  This  is  a country  watered  by  almost  innumerable  rivers  and 
branches.  From  the  levelness  of  the  country,  they  are  generally  boat- 
able  almost  to  their  sources.  These  rivers  abound  in  the  fine  fish  of  the 
lakes ; and  the  fisheries  on  them  are  no  inconsiderable  source  of  supply 
to  the  new  settlers.  We  can  only  mention  a few  of  the  most  important. 

Grand  River  is  the  largest  that  enters  Lake  Michigan.  It,  rises  in 
the  south-east  angle  of  the  Territory,  and  interlocks  at  its  sources,  or  in 
its  passage,  with  the  waters  of  Raisin,  Black,  Mastigon,  and  Saganum 
and  enters  the  lake  20  miles  north  of  the  Raisin.  It  courses  through 
forests  and  prairies  abounding  with  game ; and  its  bosom,  at  the  proper 
seasons,  is  covered  with  wild  fowls.  Small  boats  reach  its  source,  and 
by  this  and  Huron  Rivers,  periogues  pass  from  lake  Michigan  to  lake  Erie. 
It  has  been  proposed  to  connect  it  by  a canal  with  the  Saganum  of  lake 
Huron. 

The  St.  Joseph  heads  in  Indiana,  and  interlocks  with  Black  River,  St. 
Joseph’s  of  the  Miami,  Eel  River,  and  Tippicanoe  of  the  Wabash.  It  has 
a strong  current,  and  is  full  of  islands,  is  boatable  150  miles,  and  is  200 
yards  wide  at  its  entrance  into  the  lake.  There  are  most  abundant  fish- 
eries on  it.  The  Raisin  derives  its  name  from  the  great  number  of  grapes 
that  grow  on  its  banks.  Black  River,  Marame,  Barbue,  White,  Rocky, 
Beauvais,  St.  Nicholas,  Marguerite,  Monistic,  Aux  Sables,  Lasiette, 
Grand  Traverse,  Thunder  River,  Sandy,  Saganum,  St.Clair,  Belle, and 
Huron  are  considerable  streams  that  empty  into  the  lakes.  These  rivers, 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


435 


like  those  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  before  they  enter  the  lakes,  expand 
into  considerable  basins,  caused,  no  doubt,  by  the  conflict  between  the 
current  of  the  rivers,  and  the  surf  of  the  lakes,  meeting  in  a level  and 
sandy  soil.  In  the  proper  season,  they  are  covered  with  abundant  harvests 
of  wild  rice;  with  innumerable  flocks  of  wild  fowls,  that  come  here  to 
feed  upon  it. 

A great  many  Indians  still  reside  in  this  country.  But  the  tide  of 
white  immigration  has  recently  set  strong  this  way;  and  the  banks  of  the 
Huron  and  the  Raisin  are  rapidly  covered  with  the  clearings  of  the  settlers. 
The  strait  of  St.  Clair,  connecting  that  lake  with  lake  Huron,  is  26  miles 
long.  It  runs  through  a country  partly  prairie  and  partly  forest.  Deep 
groves  of  beautiful  white  pine  are  found  along  this  strait.  The  strait  of 
Detroit,  connecting  lake  Erie  and  St.  Clair  is  24  miles.  It  is  navigable 
for  large  vessels,  is  studded  with  islands;  and  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
sheets  of  water  in  the  world.  Its  current  is  nearly  three  miles  an  hour. 
It  receives  the  rivers  Rouge,  Ecorce,  Magaugua,  and  Brownstown. 
Five  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  Rouge  is  a ship  yard.  It  has  excellent 
lands  on  its  banks.  South  of  Huron  River,  the  river  Aux  Cignes,  Rocky 
Creek,  Aux  Sables,  and  some  other  small  streams  enter  the  lake. 

Raisin  derives  importance  from  the  circumstance  that  it  is  more  settled 
than  any  river  in  the  country,  except  Detroit.  It  has  also  obtained  a mel- 
ancholy celebrity  from  the  events  of  the  late  war.  It  has  at  its  mouth 
extensive  prairies,  and  wide  tracts  covered  with  wild  rice.  The  French 
settlements  on  this  river  are  conformable  to  their  customs  in  Canada, 
Missouri,  and  Louisiana;  that  is  to  say,  they  are  laid  out  in  long  and 
narrow  parallelograms,  two  or  three  arpens  wide  in  front,  and  from  40  to 
100  arpens  deep.  In  this  way  they  gratify  their  propensity  for  society, 
by  having  the  fronts  of  their  plantations  resemble  a continued  village. 
There  are  fine  orchards  on  this  river.  Its  banks  are  covered  with  grape 
vines,  and  from  the  abundance  of  its  grapes  it  receives  its  name. 

Michilimackinack  island  is  situated  in  the  north-west  angle  of  lake 
Huron  in  the  straits  between  it  and  lake  Michigan.  It  is  considered 
among  the  most  impregnable  fortresses  on  the  northern  frontier.  The 
British  gained  possession  of  it,  during  the  late  war.  It  derives  its  name 
from  an  Indian  word,  implying  ‘the  back  of  a tortoise,’  which,  in  its  form 
of  rising  from  the  lake,  it.  resembles.  The  island  is  9 miles  in  circum- 
ference. The  village  stands  on  the  south  side  of  it,  and  on  rising  grounds 
back  of  it,  the  fort  is  situated.  This  is  one  of  the  most  remote  northern 
settlements  in  the  United  States.  The  fortifications  are  of  great  strength. 
The  population  of  the  island  and  its  vicinity  is  about  1,000.  The  isl- 
ands in  lake  Michigan  are  as  follows : Manitou  Island,  near  the  eastern 
coast,  is  six  miles  long  and  four  wide.  The  Castor  Islands  extend  from 


436 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


Grand  Traverse  Bay  nearly  across  the  lake.  Grosse  Isle  is  five  miles 
long,  and  from  one  to  two  wide.  Bois  Blanc  is  in  front  of  Malden,  and 
has  been  possessed  by  the  British;  and  is  one  of  the  points  of  territory 
in  question  between  our  government  and  theirs.  The  bays  on  the  east 
side  of  lake  Michigan,  are  Sable  and  Grand  Traverse.  Those  on  the 
Huron  coast  are  Thunder  and  Sagana.  The  last  is  40  miles  in  extent  in 
one  direction,  and  from  8 to  12  in  the  other,  Maumee  Bay  resembles  a 
lake;  and  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of  Maumee  River.  It  is  18  miles  in 
circumference.  In  the  interior  of  this  territory  are  great  numbers  of 
small  lakes  and  ponds,  from  which  the  rivers  have  their  sources.  The 
strait,  which  connects  lake  Huron  and  lake  Michigan,  is  called  Lac  des 
Illinois,  is  15  miles  long,  of  an  elliptical  figure,  and  subject  to  a tide, 
which  has  sensible  fluxes  and  refluxes.  The  Indians  that  reside  in  this 
territory  are  chiefly  the  following:  Ottawas,  Miamies,  Pottawattomies, 
Chippeways,  and  Wyandots.  By  different  treaties  they  have  made  ces- 
sions of  the  greater  part  of  the  lands  in  this  territory  to  the  United  States. 
They  still  retain  considerable  tracts  of  fine  country;  and  have  many 
reservations  and  villages,  even  among  the  settlements.  Some  of  them 
have  made  no  inconsiderable  advances  in  cultivation,  and  the  arts  of 
civilized  life.  Most  of  the  converts  to  Christianity  in  this  region  profess 
to  be  Roman  Catholics.  The  Protestants  have  recently  established  mis- 
sionary stations  and  schools  among  them.  The  savages  of  this  region 
suffered  much  during  the  late  war;  and  their  numbers  are  clearly  dimin- 
ishing. 

The  climate  of  this  region,  in  consequence  of  its  being  level,  and  pen- 
insular, and  surrounded  on  all  sides  but  the  south  with  such  immense 
bodies  of  water,  is  more  temperate  and  mild  than  could  be  expected  from 
its  latitude.  The  southern  parts  have  mild  winters,  and  the  spring  opens 
as  early  as  in  any  part  of  the  United  States  in  the  same  latitude.  The 
position  of  the  northern  parts  must  subject  it  to  a Canadian  temperature. 
The  winter  commences  here  early  in  November;  and  does  not  terminate 
except  with  the  end  of  March.  At  Detroit,  in  1818,  the  mean  heat 
of  January  was  24°,  and  in  1820  the  mean  heat  of  July  was  69°,  of 
December  27°.  At  Mackinack,  the  most  northern  settlement  in  the 
United  States,  the  mean  heat  of  October  was  45°;  of  November  32°; 
and  of  December  21°. 

Agriculture , Manufactures , Exports,  Sfc.  The  eastern  parts  of  this 
territory,  from  various  circumstances,  became  first  settled.  Within  the 
few  last  years  a great  mass  of  immigrants  have  begun  to  spread  them- 
selves over  this  fine  and  fertile  country.  Situated,  as  it  is,  between  the 
west,  the  south,  and  the  east,  with  greater  facilities  for  extensive  inland 
water  communication,  than  any  other  country  on  the  globe,  with  a fertile 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


437 


soil,  of  which  millions  of  acres  are  fit  for  the  plough,  with  a 
healthful  climate,  and  with  a concurrence  of  circumstances,  inviting 
northern  population,  there  can  be  no  doubt,  that  it  will  soon  take  its  place 
as  a state,  and  rival  its  western  sister  states.  Wheat,  Indian  corn,  oats, 
barley,  buck  wheat,  potatoes,  turnips,  peas,  apples,  pears,  plums,  cherries 
and  peaches  are  raised  easily  and  in  abundance.  It  is  a country  more 
favorable  to  cultivated  grasses  than  the  western  country.  In  short,  it  is 
peculiarly  fitted  for  northern  farmers.  No  inland  country,  according  to 
its  age,  population,  and  circumstances,  has  a greater  trade.  A number 
of  steam  boats  and  lake  vessels  are  constantly  plying  in  this  trade,  which 
is  with  Mackinack,  Detroit,  Chicago,  and  Ohio.  The  amount  of  foreign 
exports,  in  1821,  was  53,290  dollars. 

Chief  Towns.  Detroit  is  the  political  metropolis,  and  the  only  town 
of  much  size  in  the  territory.  It  is  situated  on  the  western  bank  of  the 
river  Detroit,  18  miles  above  Malden  in  Canada,  and  6 miles  below  the 
outlet  of  lake  St.  Clair.  The  banks  are  20  feet  above  the  highest  waters 
of  the  river.  The  plain  on  which  it  is  built  is  beautiful,  and  the  position 
altogether  delightful  and  romantic.  The  streets  are  wide  and  the  houses 
are  of  stone,  brick,  frame  and  logs ; and  some  of  them  make  a very  showy 
appearance.  Three  of  the  principal  streets  run  parallel  with  the  river, 
and  are  crossed  at  right  angles  by  six  principal  cross  streets.  Several 
wharves  project  into  the  river.  The  United  States’ wharf  is  140  feet 
long,  and  a vessel  of  400  tons  burthen  can  load  at  its  head.  The  public 
buildings  are  a council  house,  state  house,  United  States’  store,  Presby- 
terian church,  a Roman  Catholic  chapel,  and  some  other  public  buildings. 
There  are  a number  of  stores,  and  others  building.  Rents  and  the  value 
of  lots  are  rising;  and  the  town  exhibits  marks  of  rapid  population  and 
improvement.  It  was  almost  entirely  consumed  by  f re,  in  1806;  and  the 
appearance  of  the  new  town  is  much  superior  to  the  old  one.  It  is  a 
place  of  great  and  constant  resort  of  the  Indians;  and  here  the  greatest 
numbers  and  the  fairest  sample  of  the  northern  tribes  are  seen.  Though 
the  lake  boatmen,  the  coureurs  du  hois,  and  the  huntsman  of  the  northern 
wilderness  are  not  exactly  the  Bedowin  Arabs,  and  the  frightful  scare-crows 
that  V olney  has  described,it  must  be  admitted  that  living  in  the  woods,  being 
exposed  to  the  heats  and  colds  of  the  climate,  and  rowing  on  the  rivers 
and  lakes  under  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  are  things  not  favorable  to 
complexion  and  appearance;  and  Detroit  can  show  many  inhabitants 
sufficiently  outre  in  their  costume,  and  who  have  nothing  in  their  appear- 
ance to  recommend  them.  Respectable  schools  are  now  established  here. 
A public  journal  issues  from  the  press.  Libraries  are  in  contemplation. 
It  must  continue  to  increase  with  the  influx  of  immigrants,  and  the  ex- 
tension of  back  settlements.  It  is  the  chief  depot  of  the  shipping  of  the 


438 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


lakes.  A steam  boat  plies  between  it  and  Buffalo.  The  operation  of  the 
Erie  Canal  has  been  favorable  to  the  business  and  importance  of  this 
town,  and  of  the  whole  country.  The  finishing  of  the  Ohio  Canal  will 
still  farther  enhance  its  business  and  prosperity.  Detroit  is  evidently 
destined  to  become  a considerable  town.  The  population  exceeds  2,000. 
The  one  half  of  these  are  French,  the  other  half  Americans;  with  a con- 
siderable sprinkling  of  foreigners  from  various  countries.  The  other 
villages  that  have  received  names,  are  Mount  Clement,  Brownstown, 
Monroe,  Lawrenceville,  Frenchtown,  and  the  New  Settlement. 

Government.  This  is  upon  the  common  plan  of  the  territorial  gov- 
ernments. But  it  is  easy  to  see  that  this  territory  will  soon  be  in  a con- 
dition to  claim  admission  into  the  confederacy  of  the  states.  Every  thing 
is  yet  in  the  commencement.  The  usual  provisions  are  made  for  roads; 
and  the  country  is  so  level  that  it  will  easily  be  susceptible  of  good  ones. 
At  present  transport  and  passage  are  almost  entirely  by  water,  for  which 
this  country  furnishes  greater  facilities  than  any  other  of  the  same  extent 
in  the  United  States.  Detroit  is  comparatively  an  ancient  place.  The 
French  plantations  along  Detroit  River  exhibit  the  aspect  of  a continued 
village.  They  are  laid  out  in  the  usual  manner,  2 or  3 arpens  in  front 
by  40  or  80  arpens  deep.  The  mansions  have  that  foreign  and  interesting 
aspect,  that  French  buildings  and  establishments  naturally  have  to  the 
American  eye.  They  are  embowered  in  ancient  and  beautiful  orchards. 
All  have  the  appearance  of  comfort ; and  some  of  them  of  splendor  and 
opulence.  There  are  few  landscapes  more  interesting,  few  water  excur- 
sions more  delightful,  than  that  from  Detroit  to  the  lakes;  along  this 
broad,  cool,  and  transparent  river,  studded  with  islands,  and  alive  with 
fishes;  in  view  of  this  continuous  line  of  French  houses  and  orchards, 
on  either  bank  of  the  river.  The  French  here  have  their  customary 
national  manners.  They  live  in  ease  and  abundance  in  the  forests,  and 
take  very  little  thought  about  education  or  intellectual  improvement. 
But  every  thing  has  changed  in  this  region  since  it  has  become  subject  to 
the  free  institutions  of  the  United  States.  A corporate  body,  styled  the 
‘University  of  Michigan,’  has  been  formed.  They  have  power  to  institute 
Colleges,  Academies,  and  public  Schools.  The  march  of  improvement 
in  this  and  in  all  respects  is  rapid. 

History.  Michigan  was  originally  comprised  in  the  North-Western 
Territory.  French  missionaries  were  settled  here  as  early  as  1648. 
Detroit  was  founded  by  the  French,  in  1670.  In  1763,  this  country, 
along  with  other  possessions  conquered  from  the  French,  came  under  the 
government  of  Great  Britain.  At  the  close  of  the  Revolutionary  War  it 
became  part  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States.  But  the  British  gov- 
ernment held  possession  of  the  military  posts  in  it  until  1796.  In  1805 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


439 


the  country  was  formed  in  a distinct  territorial  government.  On  the 
breaking  out  of  the  late  war,  this  country  became  the  theatre  of  part  of 
its  operations.  Mackinack  was  captured  by  the  British;  and  Chicago 
surrendered  to  the  savages.  The  disastrous  and  humiliating  affair  of  the 
surrender  of  Detroit,  by  general  Hull,  occurred  soon  after;  and  the 
British  held  possession  of  it  a year.  The  signal  victory  over  the  British 
fleet  on  lake  Erie,  and  the  subsequent  defeat  of  the  forces  under  general 
Proctor,  by  general  Harrison,  changed  the  tide  of  success ; and  Michigan 
again  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  United  States  It  is  now  one  of  the 
principal  points  of  immigration. 

Sketches  of  the  lakes  and  the  river  Niagara.  Although  the  terri- 
tory of  Michigan,  and  the  lakes  may  not  be  considered  as  belonging  to 
the  great  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  yet  we  have  considered  them  as  the 
external  north-eastern  limits  of  that  prodigious  basin.  They  evidently 
mark  a part  of  its  grand  features.  The  lakes  every  were  exhibit  marks 
of  having  been  formerly  much  higher,  than  they  now  are,  and  vast  allu- 
vial tracts,  beyond  their  present  limits  indicate,  that  their  waters  covered 
a much  greater  extent  of  country,  than  at  present.  It  scarcely  admits  a 
doubt,  that  by  the  Illinois  and  other  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  in  that 
direction,  the  lakes  discharged  from  the  western  extremity  of  lake 
Michigan  into  the  Mississippi.  Every  person,  that  has  traversed  the  up- 
per courses  of  the  Illinois,  remarks  that  the  water  line  on  the  bluffs  indi- 
cates the  floods  of  the  river,  to  have  been  twenty  feet  above  its  highest 
present  elevation.  These  vast  bodies  of  fresh  water,  then,  formerly  dis- 
charged from  one  extremity  into  the  gulph  of  Mexico;  and  from  the  other, 
into  that  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  Even  now,  as  we  have  already  remark- 
ed, a few  feet  of  excavation  would  empty  them  anew  into  the  Illinois, 
These  internal  seas  of  fresh  water  therefore  belong  to  the  arrangement  of 
the  great  Mississippi  basin ; and  require  a brief  description,  in  order  that 
we  may  mark  the  magnificent  northern  outline  of  the  country,  we  have 
been  describing. 

Whatever  theories  may  be  adopted  to  explain  the  phenomena  of  recent 
submersion,  that  are  seen  over  all  the  western  country,  little  doubt  can 
exist,  that  these  lakes  are  the  pools,  that  remain,  as  mementos  of  the 
^extent  of  the  agents  employed  in  that  work.  They  display  a feature  in 
the  conformation  of  our  country,  that  has  no  other  parallel  on  the  globe. 
They  seem  to  be  generally  beyond  the  reach  of  prairies.  Boundless 
forests  encircle  them.  Their  vast  extent,  the  fierce  and  untamed  char- 
acter of  the  wandering  hordes,  that  have  hunted,  fought  and  fished 
around  them  for  unknown  age  s,  the  terror  of  the  winters,  that  rule 
these  regions  of  ice  and  storms,  for  so  great  a part  of  the  year,  the 
precipitous  crags  of  secondary  formation,  that  line  their  southern  shores? 


440 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


and  the  black  masses  of  primitive  granite,  that  rise  to  impassable  heights 
on  the  north,  the  remoteness  of  their  extent  beyond  fixed  human  habita- 
tions, and  almost  beyond  the  stretch  of  the  imagination,  have  connected 
with  them  associated  ideas  of  loneliness,  grandeur  and  desolation.  A 
line  drawn  through  the  centre  of  all  these  lakes,  beginning  with  Ontario? 
and  ending  with  the  Lake  of  the  Woods  would  be  not  far  short  of  a liney  * 
that  would  measure  the  Atlantic.  Their  waters  are  uniformly  deep,, 
cold,  pure,  and  transparent.  They  repose  upon  beds  of  granite.  -They 
have  great  abundance  of  fine  fish.  The  country  north  of  lake  Superior 
and  the  lake  of  the  Woods  is  One  of  stupendous  cataracts,  impassable 
swamps  and  morasses,  rushing  rivers,  often  confined  in  precipitous 
channels  of  black  granite,  exhibiting  an  aspect,  which  would  chill  the 
heart  of  any  one,  except  a savage  hunter,  fisherman,  or  coureur  du  hois, 
in  the  description,  much  more  in  traversing  it.  We  have  a faithful  and 
interesting  account  of  these  dreary  regions  in  the  narrative  of  major 
Long’s  second  expedition. 

This  chain  commences  on  the  north-east  with  lake  Ontario.  Its 
extent  is  180  by  40  miles.  At  its  eastern  extremity  it  is  a group  of 
islands,  known  by  the  name  of  the  Thousand  islands.1  From  this  lake 
we  ascend  by  a strait,  called  Niagara  river,  a mile  in  avarage  width,  very 
swift  and  deep,  and  36  miles  long  to  lake  Erie.  This  is  a broad  and 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  equally  transparent  with  the  former,  but  falling 
short  of  it  in  general  depth.  Its  extent  is  230  by  45  miles.  In  various 
central  positions  on  this  lake,  the  voyager  is  out  of  sight  of  land,  as  on 
mid  ocean.  It  embosoms  a number  of  considerable  islands.  Ascending 
still  farther  west,  we  find  another  strait,  as  the  French  word  Detroit 
imports.  It  connects  lake  Erie  with  lake  St.  Clair,  and  is  27  miles  in 
length.  Lake  St  Clair  is  another  clear  and  beautiful  basin  of  water,  30 
miles  in  diameter.  The  strait  between  this  lake  and  Huron  is  32  miles 
in  length,  and  three-quarters  of  a mile  in  breadth,  with  a deep  and  rapid 
current.  Lake  Huron  is  the  second  on  the  continent  in  size,  being  220 
by  90  in  extent.  It  has  the  usual  cold,  transparent  and  deep  waters,  is 
studded  with  many  islands,  and  of  a depth  to  be  every  where  navigated 
b^  the  largest  vessels.  At  its  western  extremity,  by  the  straits  of  Michi- 
limackinack,  it  communicates  with  the  singular  lake,  Michigan.  This 
lake  seems  to  be  a kind  of  episode  in  the  great  chain,  not  appearing 
necessary  for  the  expansion  or  conveyance  of  the  waters  collected  above 
in  lake  Superior.  It  is  wholly  in  the  limits  of  the  United  States,  while 
half  of  the  rest  pertains  to  the  dominions  of  Great  Britain.  Its  extent  is 
300  by  50  miles.  It  receives  40  considerable  rivers,  has  valuable  fisher- 
ies of  sturgeon  and  white  fish,  and  embosoms  some,  islands  towards  its 
northern  extremity. 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY* 


441 


lieturning  to  lake  Huron  we  find  it  connected  with  lake  Superior  by 
a strait  27  miles  in  length.  The  current  of  this  river  is  shallow,  rapid, 
and  rendered  difficult  of  navigation  by  huge  masses  of  rock.  Lake 
Superior  is  by  far  the  largest  collection  of  fresh  waters  on  the  globe, 
; being  350  by  100  miles  in  extent,  and  reputed  nearly  1,500  miles  in 
"circumference.  The  water  is  transparent,  and  deeper  and  colder,  than 
any  of  the  rest.  The  shores,  especially  the  northern,  are  walled  with 
frowning  and  lofty  precipices  of  granite  rock.  All  the  lakes  abound,  and 
this  more  than  the  rest,  with  fine  fish.  They  consist  of  different  kinds  of 
trout,  all  of  them  delicious,  sturgeon,  pike,  pickerel,  muskalunge,  carp, 
bass,  herrings,  &c.,  and  the  best  kind  of  all,  white  fish,  which  is  found 
in  this  lake  in  greater  perfection,  than  in  either  of  the  rest.  It  embo- 
soms some  large  islands.  The  principal  rivers,  that  discharge  themselves 
into  it,  are  Michipicoten,  St.  Louis,  Nipegon  and  Pic.  Beyond  this  lake, 
and  stretching  still  farther  to  the  north-west,  towards  the  frozen  regions 
of  Red  River  of  the  north,  and  the  Arctic  sea,  is  the  long  and  narrow 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  apparently  the  Ultima  Thule  of  our  continent. 

These  lakes,  from  the  circumstance,  that  their  waters  possess  less  specific 
gravity  than  that  of  the  ocean,  and  the  cpmparative  shallowness  of  their 
beds,  and  it  may  be  from  other  causes,  when  swept  by  the  winds,  raise 
waves,  if  not  so  extensive  and  mountainous,  more  rough  and  dangerous, 
than  those  of  the  sea*  It  has  been  repeatedly  asserted,  that  they  have 
septennial  fluxes  and  refluxes.  From  the  silence  of  the  recent,  and  intel- 
ligent travellers,  that  have  explored  them,  touching  a fact  so  very  striking, 
we  should  be  led  to  doubt  it . [t  has  been  affirmed,  also,  that  they  have 
perceptible  diurnal  tides.  We  doubt  this  also;  for  were  it  even  true,  that 
the  same  causes,  which  raise  tides  in  the  sea,  operated  perceptibly  here, 
the  surface  that  could  be  operated  upon,  is  so  small,  compared  with  that 
of  the  ocean,  that  any  general  movement  of  the  water  would  be  so  arrest- 
ed by  capes,  points,  islands,  and  headlands,  that  such  a uniform  result, 
as  a diurnal  tide,  could  hardly  be  calculated  to  take  place  in  any  sensible 
degree. 

The  waters  of  the  lakes,  in  many  instances  collected  from  the  same 
marshes,  as  exist  at  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  filtered  through 
oozy  swamps,  and  numberless  fields  of  wild  rice,  where  the  shallow  and 
stagnant  mass,  among  this  rank  and  compact  vegetation,  becomes  slimy 
and  impotable,  as  soon  as  they  find  their  level  in  the  deep  beds  of  the 
lakes,  lose  their  dark  and  red  color,  and  their  swampy  taste,  and  become 
as  transparent  almost  as  air.  When  the  lakes  sleep,  the  fishes  can  be 
seen  sporting  at  immense  depths  below.  The  lower  strata  of  the  water 
never  gain  the  temperature  of  summer.  A bottle  sunk  an  hundred  feet 
in  lake  Superior,  and  filled  at  that  depth,  feels,  when  it  comes  up,  as  if 

56 


442 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY* 


filled  with  ice  water.  ' Imagination  can  not  but  expatiate  in  traversing' 
the  lofty  precipices,  the  pathless  morasses,  and  the  dark  and  inhospitable 
forests  of  these  remote  and  lonely  oceans  of  fresh  water,  where  the  tempests 
have  raged,  and  the  surges  have  dashed  for  countless  ages,  unwitnessed 
except  here  and  there  at  the  distance  of  an  hundred  leagues  by  a few 
red  skins , or  more  recently,  Canadian  coureurs  du  hois , scrambling  over 
the  precipices  to  fish,  or  paddling  their  periogues  in  agonies  of  terror 
to  find  shelter  in  the  little  bays  from  the  coming  storm. 

Hundreds  of  rivers,  though  none  of  great  length,  discharge  themselves 
into  these  inland  seas.  Situated  as  they  are  in  a climate,  generally 
remarkable  for  the  dryness  of  its  atmosphere,  they  must  evaporate  in  com 
ceivable  quantities  of  water.  It  has  been  commonly  supposed,  that  the 
Niagara,  their  only  visible  drain,  does  not  discharge  a tenth  part  of  the 
waters  and  melted  snows,  which  they  receive.  They  spread  such  an 
immense  surface,  and  have  so  much  of  the  grand  levelling  power  of  the 
ocean,  that  neither  They,  nor  their  outlet,  the  St.  Lawrence,  have  any 
thing  of  that  flood  and  subsidence,  that  form  such  a distinguishing  feature 
in  the  Mississippi  and  its  waters.  Hence,  too,  the  Niagara  has  little  of 
marked  alluvial  character  in  common  with  the  Mississippi.  It  rolls  down 
its  prodigions  volume  of  waters,  alike  uninfluenced  by  droughts,  or  rains, 
by  the  heat  and  evaporation  of  summer,  or  the  accumulated  snows  and 
ices  of  winter. 

Will  the  shores  of  these  vast  and  remote  waters  be  ever  settled,  except 
by  a few  wandering  trappers,  fishermen  and  savages  ? Shoals  of  immi- 
grants from  the  old  world  are  continually  landing  at  Quebec  and  Montreal. 
Upper  Canada  is  becoming  populous.  Wave  is  propelled  beyond  wave. 
Much  of  the  country  on  the  shores  of  the  lakes  is  of  an  inhospitable  and 
sterile  character,  never  to  be  cultivated.  There  are,  also,  along  their 
shores  and  tributary  waters,  sheltered  vallies  and  large  extents  of  fertile 
soil,  sufficient  for  numerous  and  populous  settlements.  It  is  an  inexpli_ 
cable  part  of  the  composition  of  human  nature,  that  men  love  to  congre. 
gate  and  form  the  most  populous  cities  and  settlements  in  northern  and 
inhospitable  climes,  rather  than  in  the  country  of  the  banana  and  the  pine 
apple.  The  astonishing  advance  of  population  and  improvement,  both 
on  the  American  and  British  side  of  the  country,  has  caused  that  the 
bosoms  of  the  remotest  lakes  have  been  whitened  with  the  sails  of  com- 
merce. The  smoke  of  the  passing  steam  boats  is  seen  rising  in  columns 
among  their  green  islands.  The  shores  have  echoed  with  the  exploding 
cannon  of  conflicting  fleets.  The  northern  forests  of  Ohio  have  already 
seen  the  red  cross  of  a hostile  squadron  giving  place  to  the  stars  and 
stripes.  Roads  are  constructing  to  reach  their  shores.  Canals  are  ex- 
cavating to  connect  the  whole  extent  of  this  vast  chain  with  the  Atlantic 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


443 


and  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Is  it  too  sanguine  to  predict,  that  within  the 
compass  of  a century  their  shores  will  count  an  hundred  populous  towns, 
where  senates  will  debate  and  poets  sing  ? That  every  nook  of  them  will 
be  visited  by  vessels  and  steam  boats,  and  connected  by  roads  and  mail 
routes,  and  that  the  fisheries  on  them  with  become  as  much  an  object  of 
national  importance,  as  are  now  those  of  Newfoundland? 

It  is  out  of  our  plan  to  describe  the  rivers,  that  empty  into  these 
lakes.  But  we  shall  notice  the  St*  Lawrence,  the  next  largest  in  North 
America  to  the  Mississippi,  and  the  counterpoise  and  rival  of  that  mighty 
stream.  Commencing  his  course  for  another  ocean,  and  moving  off  in 
an  opposite  direction,  he  seems  proudly  determined  to  resemble  his  mighty 
rival  in  nothing,  but  in  bearing  off  the  tribute  of  waters  from  a world. 
The  former  is  continually  swelling  or  subsiding;  and  in  his  spring  floods, 
moving  with  a front  many  leagues  in  width,  he  has  no  resemblance  to  his 
autumnal  course  in  a deep  channel,  and  winding  by  beaches  and  sand- 
bars. His  alluvial  forests  are  wide  and  dark,  with  a vegetation  of  surpas- 
sing grandeur.  His  sides  are  marly  and  crumbling,  and  his  bottom  is 
oozy  and  of  slime.  His  turbid  waters,  when  united  with  those  of  the  sea 
discolour  it  for  50  miles  from  its  mouth. 

The  other  is  perpetually  the  same,  steady,  full,  clear,  and  his  current 
always  sweeping.  His  bed  is  worn  in  strata  of  stone.  His  banks  rise 
at  once  to  the  primitive  soil.  Bluffs  of  rock  impend  his  course.  Forests 
in  their  season  beautifully  verdant,  but  bearing  the  more  healthy,  stinted 
and  sterile  character  of  the  north,  the  larch,  the  pine  and  the  white  birch, 
bend  over  his  waters,  and  before  he  meets  the  sea,  vision  can  scarcely 
reach  the  opposite  shore. 

At  the  point,  where  this  river  issues  from  lake  Erie,  it  assumes  the 
name  of  Niagara.  It  is  something  more  than  three  quarters  of  a mile  in 
width,  and  the  broad  and  powerful  current  embosoms  two  islands;  one 
of  them,  Grand  Isle,  the  seat  of  Mr!  Noah’s  famous  Jewish  colony,  con- 
taining eleven  thousand  acres,  and  the  other,  Navy  island,  opposite  to  the 
British  village  of  Chippeway.  Below  this  island  the  river  again  becomes 
an  unbroken  sheet,  a mile  in  width.  For  a half  a mile  below  it  seems  to 
be  waxing  in  wrath  and  powbr.  Were  this  rapid  in  any  other  place,  itself 
would  be  noted,  as  one  of  the  sublimest  features  of  river  scenery.  Along 
this  rapid,  the  broad  and  irresistible  mass  of  rolling  waters  is  not  entirely 
whitened,  for  it  is  too  deep  to  become  so.  But  it  has  something  of  that 
curling  and  angry  aspect,  which  the  sea  exhibits,  when  swept  by  the  first 
bursts  of  a tempest.  The  momentum  may  be  conceived,  when  we  are 
instructed,  that  in  half  a mile  the  river  has  a descent  of  50  feet.  A col- 
umn of  water,  a mile  broad,  25  feet  deep,  and  propelled  onward  by  the 
weight  of  the  surplus  waters  of  the  whole  prodigious  basin  of  the  lakes, 


444 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


rolling  down  this  rapid  declivity,  at  length  pours  over  the  cataract,  as  if 
falling  to  the  central  depths  of  the  earth.  Instead  of  sublimity,  the  first 
feeling  excited  by  this  stupendous  cataract  is  amazement.  The  mind 
accustomed  only  to  ordinary  phenomena  and  common  exhibitions  of 
power,  feels  a revulsion  and  recoil  from  the  new  train  of  thought  and 
feeling,  forced  in  an  instant  upon  it.  There  is  hardly  sufficient  coolness 
for  distinct  impressions;  much  less  for  calculations.  We  witness  the 
white  and  terrific  sheets — for  an  island  on  the  very  verge  of  the  cataract, 
divides  the  fall — descending  more  than  150  feet  into  the  abyss  below. 
We  feel  the  earth  trembling  under  our  feet.  The  deafening  roar  fills 
our  ears.  The  spray,  painted  with  rainbows,  envelopes  us.  We  imagine 
the  fathomless  caverns,  which  such  an  impetus,  continued  for  ages,  has 
worn.  Nature  arrays  herself  before  us,  in  this  spectacle,  as  an  angry 
and  irresistible  power,  that  has  broken  away  from  the  beneficent  control 
of  Providence.  When  we  have  gazed  upon  the  spectacle  and  heard  the 
roar  until  the  mind  has  recovered  from  its  amazement,  we  believe 
the  first  obvious  thought  in  most  minds  is  a shrinking  comparison 
of  the  littleness  and  helplessness  of  man,  and  the  insignificance  of  his 
pigmy  efforts,  when  measuring  strength  with  nature.  Take  it  all  in  all, 
it  is  one  of  the  most  sublime  and  astonishing  spectacles,  seen  on  our 
globe.  The  eye  distinctly  measures  the  amount  of  the  mass,  and  we 
can  hardly  avoid  thinking  with  the  peasant,  that  the  waters  of  the  upper 
world  must  shortly  be  drained  down  the  cataract.  But  the  stream  con- 
tinues to  pour  down,  and  this  concentered  and  impressive  symbol  of  the 
power  of  Omnipotence  proclaims  his  majesty  through  the  forests  from 
age  to  age. 

An  earthquake,  the  eruption  of  a volcanic  mountain,  the  conflagration 
of  a city,  are  all  spectacles,  in  which  terror  is  the  first  and  predominant 
emotion.  The  most  impressive  exertion  of  human  power  is  only  seen  in 
the  murderous  and  sickening  horrors  of  a conflict  between  two  mighty 
armies.  These,  too,  are  transient  and  contingent  exhibitions  of  sublim- 
ity. But  after  we  have  stood  an  hour  at  the  foot  of  these  falls,  after  the 
eye  has  been  accustomed  to  look  at  them  without  blenching,  after  the  ear 
has  become  familiarized  with  the  deafening  and  incessant  roar,  when  the 
mind  begins  to  calculate  the  grandeur  of  the  scale  of  operations  upon 
which  nature  acts,  then  it  is  that  the  entire  and  unmingled  feeling  of  sub- 
limity rushes  upon  it,  and  this  is,  probably,  the  place  on  the  whole  globe, 
where  it  is  felt  in  its  most  unmixed  simplicity. 

It  may  be,  that  the  beautiful  and  romantic  country  between  Erie  and 
Ontario  receives  a richer  colouring  from  the  imagination,  excited  strongly 
to  action  by  dwelling  on  the  contiguity  of  the  great  lakes,  and  the  deep 
thunder  of  the  falls  heard  in  the  distance.  Remembrances  of  the  bloody 


MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


445 


field  of  Bridgewater  will  be  naturally  awakened  by  this  view.  Be  the 
cause  what  it  may,  every  one  approaches  the  falls,  finding  the  scenery  and 
accompaniments  just  what  they  should  be.  Every  one  finds  this  to  be 
the  very  place  where  the  waters  of  the  upper  world  should  pour  upon  the 
lower.  We  have  figured  to  ourselves  the  bloody  struggle  of  Bridgewater 
by  the  uncertain  intervals  of  moonlight,  and  the  feelings  with  which  the 
combatants  must  have  listened  to  the  deafening  and  eternal  roar  of  the 
cataract,  which  became  audible  whenever  the  crash  of  the  cannon  was  for 
a moment  suspended.  Must  it  not  have  sounded  as  the  voice  of  nature, 
mocking  in  her  own  sublime  irony,  the  feeble  and  the  mad  wrath  of  man, 
in  attempting  these  murderous  and  momentary  imitations  of  her  thunder 
and  her  power! 

The  Rideau  Canal  connects  Lake  Ontario  with  the  river  Ottawas  and 
Quebec.  The  number  of  vessels  employed  on  the  lakes  Erie,  Huron  and 
Michigan  is  53,  beside  steam  boats,  which  make  casual  trips  to  Green  Bay 
and  Fond  du  Lac.  The  Welland  Canal  38  miles  long  and  10  feel  deep, 
with  30  locks  overcoming  360  feet  connects  Lake  Erie  by  schooner  navi- 
gation with  Lake  Ontario. 


NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY 


Nearly  500  miles  in  length,  and  400  in  breadth.  Between  42°  30', 
and  49°  N.  latitude,  and  10°  3 V,  and  18°  30',  W.  longitude.  Bounded 
east  by  Lake  Michigan;  north  by  Lake  Superior  and  the  British  posses- 
sions; west  by  the  Mississippi,  and  a line  drawn  from  its  source  to  the 
northern  boundary,  which  separates  it  from  Missouri  Territory.  The  most 
accurate  account  of  this  country  is  to  be  found  in  Long’s  second  expedi- 
tion. It  is  generally  a hilly  country,  with  the  exception  of  extensive  level 
prairies.  At  the  western  extremity  of  Lake  Superior  are  the  Cabotian 
Mountains;  and  near  the  mineral  district  the  Smoky  Mountains.  In 
some  of  its  features,  this  country  resembles  Missouri  Territory;  but  has 
greater  proportions  covered  with  wood.  The  chief  rivers,  except  the 
Mississippi,  are  Ouisconsin  River,  Fox,  Chippeway,  St.  Croix,  Rum,  St. 
Francis,  and  Savanna  of  the  Mississippi;  Grand  Portage,  Ontonagon, 
Montreal,  Mauvaise,  Bois  brule,  St.  Louis,  and  nearly  50  smaller  streams 
are  waters  of  Lake  Superior.  Riviere  la  Pluie  falls  into  the  Lake  of 
the  Woods.  None  of  the  lake  rivers  have  a course  of  more  than  150 
miles,  and  few  more  than  50  miles. 

The  largest  river  of  the  Mississippi  in  this  Territory,  is  Ouisconsin, 
which  rises  in  the  northern  interior  of  the  country,  and  interlocks  with 
the  Montreal  of  Lake  Superior.  It  has  a course  of  between  3 and  400 
miles,  has  a shallow  and  rapid  current,  which  is,  however,  generally  boat- 
able  in  good  stages  of  the  water,  and  is  800  yards  wide  at  its  mouth. 
There  is  a portage  of  only  half  a mile  between  this  and  Fox  River.  It 
is  over  a level  prairie,  across  which,  from  river  to  river,  there  is  a water 
communication  for  periogues  in  high  stages  of  the  water. 


NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY. 


447 


Fox  River  has  a course  of  260  miles.  It  runs  through  Winnebago 
Lake.  It  has  a fine  country  on  its  banks,  with  a salubrious  climate. 
Chippeway  is  a considerable  river  of  the  Mississippi,  and  enters  it  just 
below  Lake  Pepin.  It  is  half  a mile  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  has  commu- 
nications, by  a short  portage,  with  Lake  Superior.  A canal  of  6 miles, 
over  a perfectly  level  plain,  could  connect  this  river  with  the  preceding, 
and  furnish  steam  boat  navigation  from  Buffalo  to  the  Mississippi. 

This  is  a fine  region  for  hunters.  In  the  upper  part  of  the  country 
buffalos,  elk,  bears  and  deer  are  common.  Beavers,  otters,  and  muskrats 
are  taken  for  their  furs.  The  trappers  and  savages  roam  over  immense 
prairies  in  pursuit  of  their  objects.  In  some  parts  of  it  the  soil  is  fertile. 
White  and  yellow  pine,  and  white  birch  are  common  among  the  forest 
trees.  All  the  water  courses,  ponds  and  marshes  are  covered  with  wild 
rice,  which  constitutes  a considerable  part  of  the  nourishment  of  the  in- 
habitants. The  head  waters  of  the  Mississippi  are  estimated  to  be  1,330 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

It  is  a country  abundant  in  minerals.  In  it  are  found  great  quantities 
of  the  terre  verte,  or  green  earth,  lead,  copper  and  iron.  The  lead  mine 
district  is  in  the  lower  part  of  the  country,  between  Rock  River  and  the 
Ouisconsin.  On  Fever  River  are  the  chief  establishments  of  the  present 
miners,  and  the  mines  are  probably  as  rich  and  as  abundant  as  any  in  the 
world.  It  has  been  asserted,  for  half  a century,  that  great  quantities  of 
native  copper  are  found  along  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Superior.  On 
the  Ontagon  are  great  quantities  of  pure  copper  in  detached  masses.  A 
single  mass  is  estimated  to  weigh  3,000  pounds.  More  recent  and  intel- 
ligent travellers  have  not  realized  the  expectations  that  have  been  raised  in 
respect  to  finding  this  metal.  But  lead  and  iron  are  found  in  various 
places;  and  sufficient  indications  of  the  existence  of  mines  of  copper. 

The  southern  parts  of  this  extensive  region  possesses  a climate  com- 
paratively mild,  and  not  much  unlike  that  of  the  northern  belt  of  Missouri. 
At  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  the  summers  are  temperate;  and  the  winters 
extremely  cold.  The  sources  of  the  Mississippi  are  in  a region  severely 
inclement.  At  St.  Peters,  in  1820,  the  mean  temperature  of  January 
was  zero,  a degree  of  cold  not  felt  in  any  part  of  the  United  States  that 
is  much  settled.  The  summer  was  temperate,  and  the  atmosphere  beau- 
tifully serene.  Even  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  though  much  more  temperate, 
the  winters  are  very  severe.  The  following  table  is  selected  from  Mr. 
Schoolcraft. 


448 


NORTH-WEST  TERRITORY. 


Place . 

Average 

Prevailing 

Date. 

temperature. 

winds. 

Air 

Water. 

Detroit, 

May  15  to  24 

61° 

00° 

N.  E„ 

River  St.  Clair, 

24  27 

51 

52 

N.  W. 

Lake  Huron, 

28  to  June  6 

51 

51 

N.  W. 

Mackinack, 

June  7 to  13 

55 

00 

S.  E. 

Mackinack  to  Lake  Superior,  13  18 

66 

00 

S.  W. 

Lake  Superior, 

19  27 

66 

58 

N.  W. 

Ontonagon  River, 

28  30 

80 

73 

N.  W. 

Water  of  Lake  Superior, 

66 

Ontonagon  River  to  Fond  j 
du  Lac,  1 

| July  1 to  5 

64 

61 

s.  w 

Between  Fond  du  Lac  and  / 

6 to  16 

67 

N.  W. 

Sandy  Lake,*  1 

At  Sandy  Lake, 

17  24 

73 

From  Sandy  Lake  to  St.  j 
Peters,  < 

| 25  to  Aug.  1 

69 

s.  w. 

Chicago, 

January, 

15 

N.  W.  &,  S.  W. 

February, 

32 

s.  w. 

March  to  15, 

29 

LN.  E. 

Note. — On  the  19th  July,  near  the  Falls  of  Packagama,  the  elevation 
being  1,200  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  “the  night  was  so  cold  that 
the  water  froze  upon  the  bottoms  of  the  canoes,  and  they  were  encrusted 
with  a scale  of  ice  of  the  thickness  of  a knife  blade.  The  thermometer 
stood  at  36°  at  sun-rise.  There  had  been  a heavy  dew  during  the  night, 
which  was  succeeded  by  a dense  fog  in  the  morning,  and  the  forenoon  re- 
mained cloudy  and  chilly.” 

Green  Bay  Settlement  is  situated  at  the  outlet  of  Fox  River,  and  con- 
tains 952  inhabitants.  A few  miles  up  Fox  River  of  this  Bay  in  a most 
romantic  position,  is  an  interesting  Episcopal  Missionary  establishment. 
There  are  two  or  three  other  incipient  establishments  of  hunters  and 
trappers.  Prairie  du  Chien  is  a considerable  village.  There  are  flour 
mills  near  it.  It  is  a place  of  importance  as  an  outfit  from  the  Lower 
Mississippi  to  the  upper  waters.  It  is  situated  near  a beautiful  prairie. 
The  position  of  the  village  has  been  recently  inundated.  Most  of  the 
permanent  inhabitants  have  Indian  blood  in  their  veins.  At  certain  sea- 
sons of  the  year  it  is  populous,  bustling  and  busy.  Curious  modes  of 
justice  and  of  despatching  business  have  been  adopted  here  by  prescrip- 
tion. The  inhabitants  in  this  village  and  settlement  amount  to  492. 
Frequent  voyages  are  made  from  St.  Louis  to  this  place  in  keel  boats. 
The  richest  copper  mines,  and  large  masses  of  pure  copper  are  found 
here.  One-third  of  the  land  is  fit  for  farming,  and  one-sixth  well  tim- 
bered. 

*The  distance  from  Fond  du  Lac  to  Detroit  is  1,100  miles. 


South  west  territory. 


449 


This  vast  region  has  hitherto  been  politically  connected  with  Michigan 
Territory;  but  as  that  Territory  has  as  distinct  geographical  limits  as  any 
state  in  the  Union,  and  this  region  is  only  connected  with  that  by  circum- 
stances of  a temporary  nature,  it  is  evident  that  this  country  ought  to  be 
viewed,  at  least  geographically,  as  a Territory  by  itself* 

Prairie  du  Chien,  Cassville,  and  Green  Bay  are  the  largest  villages,  and 
the  whole  population  is  rated  at  16,000.  Three  thousand  immigrants  for 
this  country  passed  through  Buffalo  in  a single  weeki 

A correspondent  of  the  Buffalo  Journal  gives  an  agreeable  picture  of 
that  portion  of  this  Territory,  which  has  been  lately  ceded  to  government 
by  theMenomenee  Indians,  and  in  which  he  had  just  made  an  excursion. 
The  tract  reserved  to  the  Indians,  of  500,000  acres,  is  also  a fine  body  of 
land,  containing  very  extensive  and  fertile  meadows  along  the  Fox  River, 
With  woodlands  of  good  timber  in  which  there  is  no  underbrush.  The 
writer  proceeded  38  miles  from  Green  Bay  up  the  Fox  River  to  Winne- 
bago Lake,  passing  rapids  whose  whole  descent  is  about  100  feet.  The 
river  is  90  yards  wide,  its  bed  a lime  stone  rock,  the  banks  from  50  to  150 
feet  high.  The  Water  power  is  of  course  adequate  to  move  any  machinery. 
Doty’s  Island,  in  the  outlet  of  the  lake,  contains  400  acres  heavily  tim- 
bered. The  bank  of  the  lake  itself  is  covered  with  trees  of  a height  and 
diameter  indicating  the  nature  of  the  soil,  which  is  a black  loam,  rich  and 
deep.  The  Cliff,  so  called,  is  a mountain  300  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  lake,  presenting  a picturesque  prospect.  The  main  roads  leading 
from  Green  Bay  to  Chicago,  Ouisconsin,  Portage,  the  Lead  Mines,  and 
Galena,  will  probably  pass  this  point.  Beyond  this  the  mountain  recedes 
three  or  four  miles  from  the  shore,  forming  a valley  15  miles  in  length,  of 
as  fertile  land  as  can  be  found  in  the  United  States:  terminatino-  to  the 

' O 

South  in  a dry  prairie  called  Cass  Plains.  These  plains  contain  25,000 
acres  of  rich  land,  which  are  already  cleared  by  nature  for  the  plough; 
and  they  extend  to  the  Manitoovoc  River.  Soon  after  begin  the  prairies, 
which  run  with  scarcely  any  timber,  to  the  Mississippi.  In  the  whole 
distance,  near  100  miles,  passed  by  the  writer,  the  land  seems  to  be  of 
the  kind  and  aspect  just  described,  namely,  rich  prairie,  with  occasional 
growths  of  fine  timber,  equally  indicative  of  fertility.  A road  from  the 
mouth  of  Fond  du  Lac  River  to  Galena  would  be  of  great  advantage  to 
the  mines,  and  a direct  route  for  one  might  be  followed  at  a trifling  ex- 
pense. It  would  facilitate  the  transportation  of  property  from  New  York 
by  the  canal  and  the  lakes. 


57 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY. 


Length,  900  miles;  breadth,  800.  Between  36°  30'  N.  latitude,  and 
13°  40'  and  35°  10'  W.  longitude.  Bounded  by  the  British  possessions 
on  the  north;  east  by  the  North-West  Territory,  Illinois,  and  Missouri; 
south  and  south-west  by  the  territories  of  the  Mexican  Republic;  west 
by  the  Rocky  Mountains.  No  writers  have  given  such  striking,  general 
views  of  this  country  as  the  gentlemen  of  Long’s  first  expedition. 

The  belt  of  country  partially  wooded,  extends  generally  from  2 to  400 
miles  west  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  waters.  There  commences  that 
ocean  of  prairies,  that  constitutes  so  striking  and  impressive  a feature  in 
the  vast  country  beyond  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri.  This  vast  country 
is  for  the  most  part  a plain,  more  or  less  covered  with  grass,  in  great  ex- 
tents; in  other  extents  almost  a moving  sand.  It  is  pastured,  and  trodden 
by  countless  numbers  of  buffaloes,  elk,  and  other  wild  animals  that  graze 
upon  it.  In  some  places,  as  on  the  Missouri,  spurs  of  the  mountains  are 
encountered  long  before  we  reach  the  main  ridge.  In  other  places,  as  at 
the  outlet  of  the  Arkansas  from  the  mountains,  these  mountains  spring 
up,  as  the  eternal  barriers  of  the  plains,  directly  from  their  base.  One 
mountain  is  distinguishable  from  all  the  rest.  We  have  wished  that  it 
might  be  denominated  Mount  Pike,  from  the  name  of  the  intrepid  and 
adventurous  traveller,  who  gave  us  the  first  account  of  it.  Its  black  sides 
and  hoary  summit  are  a kind  of  sea  mark  at  immense  distances  over  the 
plain.  It  elevates  its  gigantic  head,  and  frowns  upon  the  sea  of  verdure^ 
and  the  boundless  range  of  buffaloes  below,  taking  its  repose,  solitary  and 
detached  from  the  hundred  mountains  apparently  younger  members  of  the 
family,  which  shrink  with  filial  awe  at  a distance  from  it. 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY. 


451 


The  Rocky  Mountains  commence  in  the  unexplored  regions  to  the 
north-west  of  the  United  States;  and  ranging  across  the  sources  of  the 
Missouri,  the  Roche  Jaune,  Platte,  Arkansas,  and  Red  River,  in  the 
Mexican  States  of  Texas  and  Coahuila,  they  diverge  and  unite  with 
the  ranges  of  Mexican  mountains.  They  separate  the  waters  of  the 
great  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi  from  those  that  fall  into  the 
Columbia,  or  Multnomah,  the  Great  Lake  of  Bueneventura,  and  other 
waters  of  the  Pacific.  They  have  a far  greater  extent  than  the  Alleghany 
Mountains,  are  a wider  range,  and  for  the  most  part  run,  like  them,  in 
parallel  ridges,  though  generally  more  ragged,  detached,  and  broken, 
and  are  by  no  means  so  regular.  They  are,  also,  of  a character  decidedly 
more  primitive.  Their  black,  precipitous,  and  frowning  appearance  has 
probably  given  them  the  name  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Their  bases 
have  an  elevation  of  between  3 and  4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 
James’,  or  Pike’s  Mountain  has  been  given  as  12,000  feet  in  height.  As 
this  vast  range  of  mountains  is  as  yet  but  very  imperfectly  known,  there 
is  little  reason  to  doubt,  that  many  of  the  peaks,  when  more  fully  explored 
and  more  accurately  measured,  will  be  found  to  approach  much  nearer  in 
height  to  the  highest  ranges  in  Mexico,  than  has  been  commonly  supposed. 
Most  of  the  more  elevated  summits  are  above  the  point  of  perpetual  con- 
gelation. It  one  respect  they  resemble  the  Alleghanies.  In  numerous 
places  the  waters  that  run  into  the  Pacific,  rise  near  those  that  fall  into 
the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi.  Thus  has  nature  kindly  provided 
points  of  easy  transit  from  the  eastern  to  the  western  side  of  these  frown- 
ing and  apparently  impassable  barriers  of  nature.  By  communications 
of  unquestionable  veracity,  from  persons  engaged  in  the  Missouri  Fur 
Company,  we  learn  that  following  up  the  vallies  of  the  sources  of  the 
Platte  to  the  opposite  vallies  of  waters,  that  fall  into  the  Great  Lake  of 
Bueneventura,  on  the  other  side,  agooc^road  was  found,  and  easily  passa- 
ble by  loaded  wagons. 

The  waters  of  this  great  inland  sea  were  found  by  General  Ashley  to 
be  much  salter  than  those  of  the  ocean.  He  descended  a bootable  river  150 
miles  to  reach  it.  He  coasted  it  with  canoes,  and  found  it  to  be  100  miles 
long,  and  from  60  to  80  wide.  F rom  this  lake  he  returned  to  St.  Louis 
in  70  days.  He  found  game  so  abundant  that  he  could  have  subsisted 
1,000  men  on  their  whole  route.  The  caravan  crossed  the  mountains  by 
the  valley  of  the  North  Fork  of  the  river  Platte.  The  ascent  and  de- 
scent of  the  mountains  never  exceeded  three  degrees.  Many  of  this 
party  had  been  in  these  remote  mountain-solitudes  five  years  in  perfect 
health. 

This  line,  when  viewed  at  a distance,  every  where  seems  continuous, 
iron  bound,  and  impassable.  The  mind  recoils  from  the  attempt  as  hope 


452 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY. 


less,  to  find  a way  over  such  frowning  and  formidable  barriers.  There  is 
no  doubt,  that  within  half  a century  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi  will  be 
united  with  those  of  the  western  sea  by  navigable  canals. 

What  are  called  ‘The  Gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,’  through  which 
the  Missouri  seems  to  have  torn  itself  a passage,  are  commonly  described 
as  among  the  sublimest  spectacles  of  this  range  of  mountains.  For 
nearly  six  miles  these  mountains  rise  in  black  and  perpendicular  masses, 
1,200  feet  above  the  surface  of  the  river.  The  chasm  is  little  more  than 
150  yards  wide;  and  the  deep  and  foaming  waters  of  the  Missouri  rush 
through  the  passage  as  if  it  were  a cataract.  The  heart  of  the  beholder 
is  chilled,  as  he  contemplates,  in  these  wild  and  uninhabited  regions,  this 
seeming  conflict  between  the  river  and  the  mountains.  The  smooth  and 
black  walls  of  the  cleft  rise  more  than  twice  as  high  as  the  mountains  on 
North  River,  below  West  Point.  Every  passenger  up  North  River  has 
been  impressed  with  the  grandeur  of  that  scene  in  the  midst  of  amenity 
and  life.  What  then  must  be  the  sensations  of  the  passenger  through 
the  gates  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  who  witnesses  the  proofs  of  this  con- 
flict of  nature,  in  a region  300  leagues  from  civilization  and  habitancy? 
Vast  columns  of  the  rock  torn  from  the  mountains,  and  lying  along  the 
river,  attest  the  fact  of  this  forced  passage  of  the  river  through  the  moun- 
tains. The  Black  Hills,  the  elevated  table  lands  between  the  heads  of 
the  Missouri  and  the  Mississippi,  called  Coteau  du  Prairie , the  Ozark 
Mountains,  and  the  Masserne  Mountains,  may  all  be  considered  as  colla- 
teral ranges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains. 

The  principal  tributaiies  of  the  Mississippi  in  this  Territory  are  River 
de  Corbeau,  St.  Peter’s  Cannon,  Upper  loway,  Lower  Ioway,  and  des 
Moines.  An  interesting  and  accurate  account  of  St,  Peter’s  is  given  in 
Long’s  second  expedition.  It  is  one  of  the  principal  upper  waters  of  the 
Mississippi,  and  has  a course  of  J250  miles.  It  enters  the  Mississippi  at 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  by  a mouth  150  yards  wide,  and  a depth  of  15 
feet  water. 

The  principal  tributaries  of  the  Missouri  are  given  in  the  following 
table : 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY. 


453 


Width  at  outlet 

Supposed 

Side  on  which 

Rivers. 

in  yards. 

length. 

they  enter. 

Milk  River, 

150 

200 

N. 

Yellow  Stone, 

297 

600 

S. 

Little  Missouri, 

134 

225 

S. 

White  River, 

150 

200 

w. 

Running  Water, 

152 

300 

s.  w. 

Jacques, 

90 

300 

N. 

Sioux, 

110 

270 

N. 

Platte, 

600 

700 

w. 

Kansas, 

340 

550 

w. 

Grand  River, 

90 

200 

N. 

Charaton,  E. 

30 

150 

N. 

Charaton,  W. 

70 

180 

N. 

Osage, 

397 

350 

S. 

Gasconade, 

157 

150 

s. 

Red  River  of  the  north  rises  near  the  sources  of  St.  Peter’s,  and  by  a 
northern  and  winding  course  runs  nearly  200  miles  in  our  territorial  limits, 
and  then  passes  into  the  British  dominions  of  Upper  Canada,  and  empties 
into  Lake  Winnepeck.  Its  principal  branches  are  Red  Lake  River  and 
Mouse  River,  which  latter  stream  rises  within  a mile  of  Fort  Mandan  on 
the  Missouri.  Red  River  is  a broad,  deep,  and  very  interesting  river, 
abounding  with  fish,  and  the  country  along  its  banks  with  elk  and  buffalos. 
It  is  on  the  banks  of  this  remote  stream  that  Lord  Selkirk’s  very  interest- 
ing colony  is  settled. 

The  next  grand  tributary  to  the  Mississippi,  after  the  Missouri,  as  we 
have  already  remarked,  is  the  Arkansas.  The  head  waters  of  this  river 
were  first  explored  by  Pike,  and  afterwards  more  thoroughly  by  Long. 
This  survey  reached  to  Bell’s  Springs,  38°  32'  N.  latitude,  and  28°  45' 
W.  longitude.  Indians  and  hunters  describe  its  sources  to  be  nearly  200 
miles  north-west  from  that  point.  From  Bell’s  Springs  it  runs  in  a direc- 
tion generally  south-east  by  its  windings,  2,000  miles,  and  1,200  in  a 
straight  direction  to  the  Mississippi.  It  runs  through  a country  where 
the  traveller  can  often  see  nothing  but  a grass  plain  boundless  to  the 
vision.  The  Negracka  and  Grand  Saline  are  the  principal  upper  tribu- 
taries of  the  Arkansas.  The  lower  belt  of  this  region  is  of  secondary 
formation.  The  middle  belt  extending  from  the  Council  Bluffs  to  the 
sources  of  the  Negracka,  contains  lime  stone  and  pit  coal.  The  upper 
belt  is  primitive  and  granitic.  The  lead  mines  below  Prairie  du  Chien 
have  already  been  described.  Blue  and  green  earths,  which  the  Indians 
use  as  paints,  and  the  beautiful  red  pipe  stone  of  the  St.  Peters  have  al- 
ready been  mentioned.  The  elevations  of  the  south-west  part  of  this 


454 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY* 


region  .have  been  given  as  follows : Eastern  limits  of  the  Territory  on 
Osage  River,  750  feet  in  height.  Neosho  River,  1,000.  Arkansas,  at 
the  base  of  James’  Peak,  2,500.  Summit  of  the  peak,  11,000  feet. 

The  surface  and  soil  of  this  vast  extent  of  country  is  different  from  any 
other  of  the  same  dimensions  on  the  globe.  The  lower  courses  of  all  the 
rivers  that  enter  the  Mississippi  from  this  region  are  wooded.  In  propor 
tion  as  we  ascend  towards  the  mountains,  the  wood  becomes  more  scarce, 
and  the  upper  tributaries  of  these  streams  run  through  open  prairies. 
There  is  also  a fertile  belt  along  the  banks  of  all  these  streams;  but  in 
proportion  as  we  diverge  from  them  the  land  becomes  more  sterile  and 
parched.  We  sometimes  may  travel  whole  days  without  seeing  water. 
Great  extents  of  this  country  may  be  likened  to  the  great  Sahara  of  the 
African  deserts.  There  is,  however,  in  the  most  sterile  parts,  a thin 
sward  of  grass  and  herbage.  Counties  droves  of  buffaloes,  elk,  and  deer 
range  upon  these  vast  prairies.  These  will,  probably,  in  some  future 
period  of  our  national  existence  be  replaced  by  herds  of  domestic  cattle, 
and  flocks  of  sheep,  followed  by  moving  bands  of  shepherds.  Almost 
the  whole  courses  of  the  Missouri,  Platte  and  Yellow  Stone  are  through 
a rich  soil.  The  same  may  be  affirmed  of  Red  River.  The  upper 
courses  of  the  Arkansas  are  through  the  most  sterile  region  of  this  ocean 
of  prairies.  • 

Climate.  In  a country  of  such  immense  extent,  generally  level,  naked 
and  open,  the  climate  must  of  course  in  a great  measure  correspond  to 
latitude.  The  first  climate  beyond  the  state  of  Missouri  and  the  Territory 
of  Arkansas  is  mild  and  temperate.  The  belt  beyond  has  nearly  the 
climate  of  New  England.  Still  further  towards  the  mountains  it  is  Ca- 
nadian. Pike  and  other  travellers  speak  of  encountering  storms  of  sleet 
and  hail  in  the  summer,  near  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas.  When  the 
winds  blow  from  the  west  over  the  summits  of  these  mountains,  and  bring 
down  on  these  vast  plains  the  temperature  of  the  regions  of  perpetual 
frost,  we  may  of  course  expect  such  changes  of  temperature  near  their 
bases.  We  select  the  following  table,  as  compiled  by  Mellish,  from  the 
travels  of  Lewis  and  Clark,  as  conveying  a synoptical  view  of  the  climate 
of  this  country. 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY. 


455 


Prevailing 


1804.  Highest. 

Lowest. 

Mean . 

winds. 

Sept.  19  to  30,  Big  Bend  to} 
Ricaree,  lat.  46°,  $ 

88° 

42° 

63° 

S.  E.  & S.  W. 

Oct.  Ricaree  to  Mandan,  j 
lat.  47°  30',  \ 

62 

32 

47 

N.  W.  & S.  E. 

Nov.  Fort  Mandan, 

62 

12 

34 

N.  W.&  S.  E. 

I)ec.  Fort  Mandan, 
1805. 

38 

—45 

0 

N.  W. 

Jan.  Fort  Mandan, 

36 

—40 

3* 

N.  W. 

Feb.  Fort  Mandan, 

38 

—18 

11 

N.  W.  & S. 

March.  Fort  Mandan, 
April.  Fort  Mandan  to  24; 

40 

— 2 

28 

N.  E.  & S.  E. 

miles  beyond  Martha’s 
River,  lat.  48°. 

May.  Martha’s  River  to  i 

> 80 

24 

49 

N.W.S.&W. 

Stone  Wail  Creek,  lat. 
47°  15', 

June.  Stone  Wall  Creek  j 

> 82 

i 

28 

52 

s.  w. 

to  falls  of  Missouri,  lat.  j 
47°  15',  ] 

► 76 

35 

56 

s.  w. 

July.  Falls  to  Philosophy  ( 
River,  lat  45°, 

Aug.  Philosophy  River  to" 

| 90 
> 

52 

65 

s.  w. 

the  head  waters  of  Colum- 
bia River,  lat.  44°, 

> 91 

31 

57 

s.  w. 

N.  B.  — Signifies  below  Zero. 


GENERAL  REMARKS. 

September  23.  The  air  remarkably  dry. 

October  5.  Slight  frost.'  18.  Hard  frost.  27.  Went  into  winter  quar- 
ters at  Fort  Mandan. 

November  9.  Strong  frost.  13.  Much  drifting  ice.  30.  Indians  cross 
the  river  on  the  ice. 

December  5.  Excessive  N.  W.  wind.  7.  River  closed.  28.  Strong 
wind. 

January  3.  Snow  9 inches  deep.  8.  Snow  10  inches.  19.  Ice  3 feet 
thick  on  the  most  rapid  part  of  the  river. 

March  2.  River  partially  open.  26.  Ice  broke  up  and  descended  in 
immense  shoals.  30.  Ice  floating  in  great  quantities. 

April  1.  A fine  shower  of  rain,  the  first  since  the  15th  of  September. — 
The  air  dry  and  remarkably  pure. 

April  4.  Hard  gales;  scarcely  any  timber  to  shelter  the  country,  and  the 
winds  blow  with  astonishing  violence. 

April  7.  Left  Fort  Mandan. 

April  11.  Vegetation  appears.  18.  A heavy  dew,  the  first  since  the 
15th  of  September.  21.  White  frost. 

May  2.  Violent  wind;  snow  and  vegetation  intermixed. 

May  4.  Snow  disappeared-  9.  Choke  cherry  in  bloom. 

May  18.  Wild  rose  m bloom.  23.  Strawberries  in  bloom. 

May  28.  The  air  warm,  fine  and  dry. 


456 


MISSOURI  TERRITORY® 


June  27.  Thunder,  lightning,  and  hail  so  large  that  one  stone  was  7 

inches  in  circumference,  and  weighed  3 ounces. 

July  6.  Rain,  thunder,  and  hail;  a blackbird  killed  by  the  latter. 

July  7.  Near  the  sources  of  Missouri.  21.  A sudden  cold  caused  a 

difference  of  59°  in  the  thermometer  in  8 hours. 

At  Council  Bluffs,  in  the  summer  of  1820,  the  greatest  heat  was  105°, 
and  the  winter’s  cold  22°  below  Zero.  Same  year  at  St.  Peters,  93°  heat, 
and  30°  below  Zero  cold. 

This  country  is  part  of  the  purchase  of  Louisiana,  and  has  been  ex- 
plored by  Lewis  and  Clark,  by  Pike,  and  the  gentlemen  of  Long’s  expe- 
dition. We  have  gleaned  information,  also,  from  hunters  and  trappers, 
who  have  traversed  it  in  all  directions,  and  who  have  lived  long  in  it.  It 
is  inhabited  by  various  tribes  of  Indians,  of  whom  the  Sioux  are  the  most 
numerous.  The  whole  number  is  estimated  between  130,000  and 
140,000. 

Much  important  information,  touching  the  south-west  part  of  this  vast 
region,  has  been  recently  afforded  by  Mr.  James  C.  Pattie,  who  passed  7 
years,  in  trapping,  on  the  upper  waters  of  the  Arkansas,  Platte,  Yellow 
Stone,  and  other  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  on  the  Helay  of  Rio  del  Nortey 
a river  before  unexplored  by  white  people,  and  which  he  ascended  from 
its  junction  with  the  Del  Norte  to  its  head  source.  He  crossed  the  Rocky 
Mountains  in  various  points,  and  a number  of  times.  Most  of  the  peaks 
were  found  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  He  descended  the  Rio  Colo- 
rado, or  Red  River  of  California,  from  its  source  to  its  junction  with  the 
Pacific.  It  is  a large  river,  with  a course,  by  its  curves,  of  more  than 
1,000  miles;  and  in  many  of  its  characteristics, particularly  in  the  extent 
of  its  alluvion,  it  resembles  the  Mississippi.  It  waters  a beautiful  and 
interesting  country,  on  which  not  a vestige  of  civilized  habitancy  exists. 
Its  whole  course  is  through  forests  and  prairies,  and  undescribed  tribes  of 
naked  savages.  He  visited  a salt  hill  not  far  from  the  sources  of  the 
Platte,  and  loaded  mules  with  the  salt,  for  Santa  Fe<  He  discovered  in 
the  uninhabited  country,  ores  of  iron,  copper,  and  silver  in  great  abund- 
ance ; a great  variety  of  useful  fossils,  and  a country  altogether  of  a most 
interesting  character. 


OREGON  TERRITORY 


This  Territory  has  been  so  named  in  the  Congressional  discussions, 
that  have  taken  place  in  reference  to  the  country.  It  is  a country  of  vast 
extent.  Its  southern  limits  are  clearly  defined  in  our  late  treaty  with 
Spain,  being  on  the  42d  parallel  to  the  Pacific.  Our  limits  to  the  north- 
west are  yet  in  question  with  those  of  Russia,  which  claims  to  the  51st 
parallel.  Our  limits  with  Great  Britain  are  the  49th  parallel.  It  has, 
therefore,  the  British  and  Russian  possessions  on  the  north;  the  Pacific  on 
the  west;  the  Mexican  dominions  on  the  south,  and  the  Territories  of 
Arkansas  and  Missouri  on  the  east;  and  may  be  assumed  as  stretching 
between  41°  and  49°  N.  latitude,  and  34°  and  48°  W.  longitude*  The 
stupendous  ridges  of  the  Rocky  Mountains,  which  we  have  already  de- 
scribed, bound  this  country  on  the  east.  The  waters  that  rise  in  the  west- 
ern declivities  of  these  mountains  flow  into  the  Columbia,  the  Multnomah 
and  the  lake  Bueneventura.  Most  of  the  elevated  summits  of  the  moun- 
tains are  above  the  limits  of  perpetual  congelation.  Beyond  the  mountains 
the  country  descends  by  regular  belts,  in  the  form  of  immense  terraces, 
or  descending  plains,  disposed  regularly,  the  one  below  the  other.  Be- 
yond the  first  plain,  and  between  the  Rocky  Mountains  and  the  Pacific  is 
another  extensive  and  high  chain  of  mountains,  in  which  are  the  great 
falls  of  the  Columbia.  Still  west  of  these,  and  running  parallel  with 
the  coast,  and  at  the  distance  of  150  miles,  is  the  third  and  last  chain. 
The  peaks  of  all  these  chains  are  covered  with  perpetual  snow.  The 
highest  peaks  have  been  named  Mount  Baker,  Mount  Regnier,  Mount  St 
Helens,  Mount  Hood,  and  Mount  Jefferson. 


•58 


458 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


The  only  rivers  explored  in  this  region  are  the  Columbia  and  its  branches* 
This  noble  river  has  its  head  waters  hear  those  of  the  Missouri.  It  collects 
its  tribute  for  a wide  extent  along  the  western  dividing  ridges  of  the  Rocky 
Mountains.  Immediately  upon  emerging  from  these  mountains,  it  has 
become  a broad  and  deep  stream.  Having  received  Clark’s  and  Lewis’ 
Rivers,  each  large  streams  from  the  east,  it  is  already  960  yards  wide. 
It  there  forms  a great  southern  bend,  and  breaks  through  the  second  chain 
of  mountains.  One  hundred  and  thirty  -six  miles  below  are  the  great 
falls,  where  the  river  descends  in  one  rapid  57  feet.  Below  these  falls  it 
winds  first  to  the  north-west,  and  then  to  the  south-west,  and  passes  through 
the  third  chain  of  mountains;  where  it  is  again  compressed  to  the  width 
of  150  yards.  Below  this  rapid,  at  180  miles  from  the  Sea,  it  meets  the 
tide,  beyond  which  it  has  a broad  estuary  to  the  sea.  Sixty  miles  below 
the  rapids,  Multnomah,  a very  large  and  unexplored  tributary  falls  in 
from  the  north-east.  The  mouth  of  the  river  is  in  46°  24',  and  the  tide 
there  rises  eight  and  a half  feet.  The  Columbia  and  its  tributaries 
abound  in  the  finest  salmon,  which  seem  in  fact  to  constitute  the  chief 
article  of  food  of  the  Savages  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Seals  and 
other  aquatic  animals  are  taken  in  this  river  in  great  numbers;  and  the 
skins,  shipped  to  China,  constitute  the  chief  article  of  trade  from  this 
great  river.  A number  of  the  head  streams  of  the  Missouri  interlock 
with  the  waters  of  this  river,  as  Wisdom  River,  with  Clark’s  of  the  Co- 
lumbia; and  Jefferson  of  the  Missouri  with  Lewis’  of  the  Columbia. 
Clark’s  River  has  a course,  between  2 and  300  miles  in  length,  before  it 
unites  with  the  Columbia.  Lewis’  River  is  a large  and  long  tributary  of 
the  Columbia.  In  its  course,  it  receives  North  Fork  and  Kooskooskee,, 
and  after  winding  600  miles,  falls  into  the  Columbia  from  the  east  by  a 
mouth  250  yards  wide. 

The  geological  character  of  this  country  is  little  known;  but  the  west- 
ern declivities  of  these  mountains  are  presumed  to  be  primitive  and 
granitic.  The  country  must  have  an  abrupt  slope  to  the  Pacific,  descend- 
ing as  much  in  600  miles  to  the  west,  as  it  does  in  1,500  to  the  east. 
The  summits  of  these  mountains  of  course  are  sterile,  being  ragged 
rocks,  and  covered  with  snow  the  greater  part  of  the  year.  But  among 
these  mountains  there  are  sheltered  and  fertile  vallies.  The  timber  in  the 
mountains  is  pine,  spruce,  fir,  and  the  other  terebinthines.  The  terrace 
plains  below  generally  have  a fine  soil,  but  are  very  deficient  in  timber. 
The  prairies,  like  those  on  the  eastern  sides  of  these  mountains,  are  cov- 
ered with  grass,  and  a profusion  of  most  beautiful  flowers.  Among  the 
prairie  plants  are  two  or  three  kinds  of  edible  roots,  which  furnish  vege- 
table food  to  the  savages,  as  an  aid  to  the  great  proportion  of  salmon  which 
they  devour.  Wild  sage  is  also  an  abundant  herb.  It  grows  of  a size 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


459 


and  height  to  be  like  a small  tree ; and  on  these  extensive  plains  is  one  of 
the  principal  articles  of  fuel.  The  sea  shore  for  a considerable  distance 
into  the  interior,  is  skirted  with  deep  and  thick  forests  of  evergreens,  such 
as  pine  and  hemlock.  On  the  whole,  it  is  believed  that  few  countries  on 
the  earth  have  a more  fertile  soil,  and  agreeable  climate,  than  those  of  this 
region  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Baron  Langsdorf  has  given  us  a 
very  delightful  and  apparently  just  and  discriminating  account  of  the 
countries  belonging  to  the  Missions  of  St.  Peter  and  St.  Paul,  in  the 
Mexican  country,  bounding  on  the  southern  limits  of  this  country.  The 
mildness  of  the  climate  is  surprising.  Sheltered  on  the  north  by  protect- 
ing ridges  of  mountains,  and  the  breezes  from  the  west  being  softened  by 
coming  over  immense  extents  of  sea,  the  climate  is  as  mild  as  it  is  in 
the  country  east  of  these  mountains  four  or  five  degrees  south  of  that 
point.  Langsdorf  describes  these  countries,  extending  to  our  southern 
limit,  as  the  country  of  oranges  and  figs,  of  verdure,  health,  and  fertility. 
We  scarcely  remember  to  have  seen  more  sober  pictures  of  a moredesira-^ 
ble  country,  than  those  drawn  by  him  of  that  region.  They  correspond 
with  the  accounts  of  Lewis  and  Clark  and  other  travellers,  who  have  ex 
plored  that  country.  When  these  intelligent  and  intrepid  travellers  left 
the  country  in  March,  and  in  the  latitude  of  Montreal,  the  prairies  were 
in  blossom,  and  the  forwardness  of  the  season  seems  to  have  corresponded 
with  that  of  North  Carolina  at  the  same  time.  It  is  true  the  winters  are 
rainy,  and  some  parts  of  them  severe. 

The  following  table  will  serve  to  convey  clear  ideas  of  the  temperature 
of  these  regions : 

TABLE  OF  THE  WINDS,  AND  REMARKS  ON  THE  WEATHER  BETWEEN 
THE  ROCKY  MOUNTAINS  AND  PACIFIC  OCEAN. 


Month.  Place. 

Nf. ' 

N.W. 

N.E.IE. 

S.  E. 

s‘l 

S.W. 

W. 

Sept.  1808.  From  Dividing  Ridge) 

4 

9 

6 

2 

9 

to  Canoe  Camp,  ) 

Oct.  Canoe  Camp  to  Tide  Water, 

2 

8 

4 

12 

Nov.  Shores  of  the  Pacific, 

1 

4 

8 

1 

15 

2 

Dec.  do. 

4 

2 

5 

20 

Jan.  do. 

1 

6 

2 

4 

2 

15 

1 

Feb.  do. 

5 

3 

20 

March  20  do. 

1 

6 

1 

8 

4 

11 

April.  To  outlet  of  Kooskooskee  ) 
River,  \ 

, 4 

4 

2 

2 

11 

11 

1 

7 

May.  To  Quasnash  Flatts, 

5 

1 

11 

June.  To  Traveller’s  Rest, 

21 

8 

To  July  8.  To  Dividing  Ridge, 

2 

1 

1 

I 

6 

460 


OREGON  TERRITORY 


January. 


12. 

14. 

25. 

28. 

February. 

8. 

24. 

March. 

1. 

13. 

15. 

25. 

26. 
30. 

April, 

6. 

12. 


May. 

3. 

10. 

22. 

27. 


June. 

2. 

3. 

5. 

6. 
22. 

July  to  8. 
5. 


REMARKS. 

September.  Fair  19  days,  rain  7,  snow  4 days. 

October.  Fair  24  days,  rain  5,  cloudy  2. 

November.  Fair  7 days,  rain  17,  cloudy  6. 

December.  Fair  3 days,  rain  27,  cloudy  1. 

January.  Fair  7 days,  rain  19,  cloudy  3,  snow  2. 

The  loss  of  the  thermometer  sincerely  regretted.  The  parties 
confident  that  the  climate  is  much  warmer  than  in  the  same 
parallel  of  latitude  on  the  Atlantic  Ocean.  There  has  been 
only  one  slight  white  frost  since  the  7th  of  November.  ‘‘We 
have  seen  no  ice,  and  the  weather  is  so  warm  that  we  are 
obliged  to  cure  our  meat  with  smoke  and  fire  to  save  it.” 
The  wind  from  any  quarter  off  the  land,  or  along  the  north- 
west coast,  causes  the  air  to  become  cooler. 

Weather  perfectly  temperate.  Never  experienced  so  warm 
a winter  as  the  present. 

It  is  now  perceptibly  colder  than  it  has  been  this  winter. 
Pretty  keen  frost.  The  coldest  night  of  the  season. 

Fair  6,  rain  16,  cloudy  5,  snow  I day. 

The  feeling  of  the  air  indicated  that  the  rigor  of  the  winter 
had  passed. 

Quite  warm. 

Fair  8-, -rain  16,  cloudy  7. 

So  warm  that  fire  was  unnecessary. 

Plants  be^an  to  appear  above  ground. 

Plants  put  forth  their  leaves. 

Gooseberry  bushes  in  leaf. 

Humming  birds  appear. 

Grass  16  inches  high  in  river  bottoms. 

Fair  20,  rain  7,  cloudy  3 days. 

Cotton  wood  in  leaf. 

Vegetation  is  rapidly  progressing  in  the  bottoms,  though  the 
snow  reaches  within  a mile  of  the  base  of  the  mountains  at 
the  Rapids  of  Columbia. 

Fair  19,  rain  5,  cloudy  6,  snow  1. 

An  increase  of  snow  in  the  mountains  last  evening 
Weather  cold  with  a heavy  fall  of  snow. 

The  air  remarkably  dry  and  pure. 

The  snow  has  disappeared  on  the  high  plains,  and  seems  to 
be  diminishing  fast  on  the  spurs  and  lower  regions  of  the 
Rocky  Mountains, 

Fair  20,  cloudy  5,  rain  5. 

A great  rise  in  the  river  in  consequence  of  the  melting  of  the 
snow  in  the  mountains. 

River  at  its  greatest  height. 

The  wild  rose  in  bloom. 

The  vining  honey-suckle  in  bloom. 

Strawberries  ripe  at  Quashnash  Flatts. 

Fair  6,  rain  2 days. 

A dew  this  morning;  the  nights  cool;  the  musqmtoes  trouble 
some. 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


401 


6.  In  the  open  plain  there  was  a violent  wind  from  the  north- 
west, accompanied  by  hard  rain. 

8.  A heavy  shower,  accompanied  by  hard  rain  from  the  south- 
west. 

This  country  was  first  discovered  by  the  Spaniards.  In  1791,  Captain 
Cray,  of  the  ship  Columbia,  of  Boston,  entered  the  river,  and  from  his 
ship  it  received  its  name.  It  was  occasionally  entered  by  navigators  after- 
wards. In  1805,  Lewis  and  Clark  descended  this  river  from  the  moun- 
tains to  the  Pacific,  and  spent  the  winter  on  its  shore.  They  returned 
by  the  same  river  to  the  mountains;  and  most  of  the  exact  information 
that  we  have  of  the  country  is  from  them.  For  some  years  a settlement 
of  fur  traders,  called  Astoria,  has  existed  here.  The  chief  intercourse 
of  this  place  is  with  China.  The  question  of  settling  this  delightful 
country  permanently,  has  been  more  than  once  debated  in  Congress. 
Were  such  settlements  authorized  and  rendered  secure  by  the  requisite 
military  establishments,  there  can  be  no  doubt  but  it  would  receive  large 
accessions  of  immigrants.  The  number  of  Indians  of  the  different  tribes 
is  estimated  at  140,000. 

A company  is  understood  to  be  now  forming,  of  emigrants  principally 
from  New  England,  who  intend  to  assemble  at  St.  Louis,  ascend  the 
Missouri,  and  cross  the  mountains  to  the  plains  of  the  Oregon.  Settle- 
ments to  a considerable  extent  already  exist  on  this  river.  Many  of  the 
settlers  are  understood  to  be  British  within  the  territorial  limits  of  the 
United  States.  They  have  great  stocks  of  cattle,  sheep,  and  horses.  On 
a stream  that  enters  the  Oregon  not  far  from  the  Great  Falls,  they  have 
mills,  and  admirable  water  privileges  for  an  indefinite  number.  It  is  con- 
fidently believed,  that  no  part  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  in 
point  of  soil,  climate,  and  commercial  advantages,  holds  out  stronger  in 
ducements  to  emigrants  than  this  country. 

As  the  Mexican  States  of  Texas,  Coahuila  and  Sonora,  bound  the 
country,  admitted  by  the  treaty  of  the  cession  of  Florida,  to  belong  to  the 
United  States  in  its  whole  extent,  from  the  upper  waters  of  Arkansas  and 
Red  River  to  the  Gulf  of  California,  it  is  presumed  that  a sketch  of  those 
States  will  not  be  unacceptable  in  this  place 

It  is  well  known  that  Texas  has  already  received  a very  considerable 
proportion  of  its  present  population  in  emigrants  from  the  United  States. 
The  body  of  trappers  and  traders  from  Missouri  across  the  prairies  to 
Santa  Fe  in  New  Mexico,  is  numerous  and  increasing.  The  trade  has 
received  a regular  form,  and  has  already  had  a very  sensible  effect  upon 
the  growth  of  the  town  of  Santa  Fe,  and  the  adjoining  country.  Many 
of  these  traders  have  formed  connections,  and  intermarriages,  and  have 
found  homes  there.  Santa  Fe  may  be  considered,  in  some  sense,  an 


462 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


American  town,  the  stores  being  filled  with  American  goods,  and  the 
streets  with  American  people.  The  Americans  have  explored  the  whole 
country  from  the  sources  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  to  its  mouth,  in  search  of 
furs,  and  in  pursuit  of  a lucrative  traffic.  There  are  few  of  the  towns 
of  New. Mexico,  in  which  more  or  less  of  them  are  not  to  be  found. 
Constantly  oppressed  by  the  ignorant,  miserable,  bigotted,  petty  despots 
of  these  semi-barbarous  regions,  who  assume  to  be  republican  rulers  of 
an  amicable  sister  republic,  the  United  States  emigrants,  like  the  Jews, 
multiply  and  thrive  under  the  extortions  and  cruelties  practised  upon  them. 
Never  was  a more  vivid  and  artless  picture  of  these  oppressions  present- 
ed, than  in  the  recently  published  journal  of  James  O.  Pattie  of  seven 
years  wanderings  and  imprisonments  among  these  people.  Having  per- 
sonally explored  all  portions  of  the  country  to  Rio  del  Norte,  and  thence 
to  the  Pacific,  we  consider  his  narrative  the  most  exact,  as  well  as  inter- 
esting account  of  that  country,  that  has  yet  been  published.  He  has 
reversed  many  previous  impressions  in  regard  to  its  sterility  and  destitu- 
tion of  rains.  Copious  rains  are  noted  in  his  journal,  as  events  of  fre- 
quent occurrence.  In  Texas  and  in  Sonora  he  speaks  with  enthusiasm 
of  the  verdure  and  fertility  of  the  country,  in  his  diurnal  movements. 
He  is  seldom  out  of  sight  of  mountain-peaks,  white  with  perpetual  snow. 
His  sketches  of  the  Mexican  people,  of  their  superstitious  devotion  to 
the  ceremonials  of  their  church,  of  their  amusements,  and  bull  baiting 
are  fresh  and  graphic,  presenting  these  singular  semi-barbarians  in  a new 
light.  He  describes  the  tribes  of  the  Umeds,  Eiotaro,  and  Nabahoes, 
with  a considerable  degree  of  detail,  as  he  traversed  their  whole  extent  of 
country,  and  met  them,  both  in  battle  and  in  friendship.  He  describes 
them  as  of  uncommon  stature,  and  the  finest  forms ; and  most  of  them, 
both  males  and  females,  entirely  naked.  Their  arms  were  bows  and 
arrows,  the  arrows  of  reed,  headed  with  Hint,  and  the  bows  rendered 
elastic  by  adding  buffalo  bones  to  the  tough  wood.  These  are  the  savages 
that  occupy  the  country  along  the  course  of  Red  River  of  California. 

In  travelling  from  the  estuary  of  that  uninhabited  river  to  the  Catholic 
missions  of  California,  he  passed  over  an  immense  sand  plain  totally 
destitute  of  all  herbage  but  the  prickly  pear.  Here  he  and  his  party  were 
near  perishing  of  thirst.  At  length  they  reached  a lake ; but  its  waters 
were  salter  than  those  of  the  sea.  White  bears,  white  wolves,  antelopes, 
and  mountain  sheep  were  the  animals  they  most  frequently  met.  White 
bears,  in  numbers  and  of  a ferocity  never  before  adequately  described, 
render  trapping  and  hunting  in  these  regions  a perilous  employment, 
even  were  there  no  savages  to  encounter. 

His  description  of  the  country  along  the  Gulf  of  California,  occupied 
by  the  Catholic  Missions,  is  of  great  interest  and  freshness.  It  corres- 


OREGON  TERRITORY. 


463 


ponds,  in  most  particulars,  with  the  account  of  the  country  given  by 
Langsdorf  in  his  voyages  and  travels.  Mr.  Pattie  visited  each  one  of  the 
Missionary  stations,  having  been  liberated  from  a long  and  painful  im- 
prisonment in  San  Diego,  on  the  express  condition  that  he  should  vaccin 
ate  all  the  inhabitants  of  the  several  missions. 

He  describes  the  country  as  one  of  the  most  charming  and  delightful 
of  which  the  imagination  can  form  an  idea.  The  missions  are  situated 
along  a wide  belt  of  plain  of  the  richest  soil,  literally  covered  with  sheep, 
cattle,  horses,  and  domestic  animals.  The  missions  are  surrounded  with 
beautiful  vineyards,  yielding  pleasant  and  generous  wine$  and  all  the 
fruits  of  the  temperate,  and  most  of  those  of  the  tropical  climates. 

He  travelled  along  this  extensive  plain  from  mission  to  mission,  directly 
on  the  verge  of  the  sea  shore,  viewing,  on  one  hand,  the  expanse  of  the 
Pacific,  and  the  whales,  sea  lions,  and  other  monstrous  water  dwellers 
performing  their  unwieldy  gambols ; and  on  the  other  hand,  mountains 
white  with  snow',  from  which  innumerable  cool  streams  descended  to 
irrigate  the  fields.  The  names  of  the  missions  are  San  Diego,  San  Luis, 
the  largest  and  handsomest  of  the  whole,  St.  John  the  Baptist,  St.  Gabriel, 
St.  Ferdinand,  St.  Bueneventura,  St.  Barbara,  Santa  Cruz,  St.  Enos,  St. 
Luis  Obispes,  St.  Michael,  St.  John  Capistrano,  La  Solada,  San  Carlos, 
St.  Anthony,  and  San  Francisco.  In  these  places  he  vaccinated  22,000 
persons,  the  greater  portion  of  them  converted  Indians,  the  condition  of 
whom  he  represents  to  be  very  similar  to  that  of  our  slaves.  They  are 
carefully  watched,  to  prevent  their  escape  to  their  native  forests.  When 
the  husbands  and  fathers  of  the  females  are  absent,  the  holy  fathers  lock 
them  up  at’ night,  and  preserve  the  key.  These  missions  number  their 
cattle,  sheep,  horses  and  mules  by  tens  of  thousands.  Though  in  a trop- 
ical climate,  the  temperature  was  uniformly  cool  and  delightful. 

The  fathers  have  procured  for  themselves,  by  the  aid  of  these  thousands 
of  converted  Indians,  the  most  delightful  abodes  in  the  world.  Their 
apartments  were  sumptuously  furnished.  Their  tables  were  spread  with 
plate,  and  an  ample  supply  of  the  most  delicious  wines ; and  they  have 
had  the  good  fortune  to  have  secured  for  themselves  a paradise  in  these 
solitary  regions,  as  a prelibation  of  the  rewards  reserved  for  them  here- 
after, for  their  labors  in  converting  the  heathens.  This  country  is  contig- 
uous, and  these  people  will  be  the  nearest  whites  to  our  settlements  in  the 
Oregon  Territory. 

Mr.  Austin,  formerly  a citizen  of  the  United  States,  has  settled,  under 
the  auspices  of  the  Mexican  government,  a considerable  colony,  composed 
almost  entirely  of  emigrants  from  the  United  States,  on  the  Brassos  and 
Colorado,  rivers  of  Texas.  The  town  of  San  Felipe  de  Austin  has  a 
compact  street  of  some  length,  publishes  a gazette,  has  a number  ef 


464 


OREGON  TERRITORY* 


attornies  and  physicians,  and  a respectable  school.  Small  vessels  come 
up  to  this  town,  which  is  40  or  50  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  river. 

The  eastern  border  of  Texas  about  the  Iyish  Bayou  is  chiefly  settled 
with  Americans.  St.  Antonio  and  Nachodoches  are  the  only  considera- 
ble villages  of  the  interior.  Nachodoches  is  60  miles  west  of  the  Sabine, 
and  contains  about  490  inhabitants.  St.  Antonio  is  1,300  miles  further 
south-west,  on  the  head  waters  of  the  river  St.  Antonio,  in  29°  50’  N. 
latitude,  and  contains  between  2 and  3,000  inhabitants.  Trinity  is  a 
considerable  stream  of  Texas,  running  parallel  with  the  Sabine,  and  150 
miles  west  of  it.  The  next  important  river  is  the  Brassos,  which  has  a 
course  of  between  4 and  500  miles.  The  Colorado  is  a river  still  further 
west,  of  about  the  same  length  and  course.  Two  hundred  miles  further 
west  is  the  Rio  del  Norte,  which  has  a course,  including  its  windings,  of 
1,600  miles. 


END  OF  VOLUME  I* 


THE 


UMTEB  STATES 

AND 

THE  OTHER  DIVISIONS 


THE  AMERICAN  CONTINENT 


By  Timothy  Flint, 

AUTHOR  OF  « RECOLLECTIONS  OF  THE  LAST  TEN  YEARS  IN  THS 
MISSISSIPPI  VALLEY.” 

‘SALVE  MAGNA  PARENS 
IN  TWO  VOLUMES 

VOL.  II, 


CtuctHuatt: 

E-  Ho  FLINT  AND  L R.  LINCOLN 


1832. 


ADVERTISEMENT 


TO 

VOLUME  SECOND. 


It  will  be  sufficiently  obvious,  that  the  preceding  physical  geography 
of  the  Valley  of  the  Mississippi,  modified  to  meet  the  recent  change® 
occasioned  by  its  rapidly  increasing  population,  originally  made  the  chief 
part  of  an  entire  work,  intended  simply  for  readers,  who  wished  to 
acquaint  themselves  with  that  vast  country,  constituting  the  greater  por- 
tion of  the  surface  of  the  United  States;  and  at  no  distant  period  to  con- 
tain the  greater  part  of  our  entire  population.  It  was  objected  to  the 
original  work,  that  it  was  too  sectional.  In  attempting  to  obviate  that 
objection,  a brief  view  is  here  presented  of  the  United  States,  of  each  one 
of  the  Atlantic  States,  and  of  the  whole  continent  of  America  from  the 
latest  and  most  approved  authorities.  Our  object  has  been  to  find  a way, 
if  we  could,  between  the  unsatisfactory  dryness  of  a mere  abridgement, 
and  the  prolixity  of  uninteresting  detail ; in  a word  to  present  all  the 
important  and  interesting  information,  touching  our  country  and  conti- 
hent,  that  could  be  compressed  into  the  limits  of  our  pages. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress  in  the  year  eighteen  hundred  and  thirty  one  by 
"Timothy  Flint  in  the  Clerk’s  office  of  the  District  Court  of  Ohio. 


CINCINNATI. 
Press  of  L.  R.  Lincoln. 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW 


OF  THE 

UNITED  STATES. 


The  United  States  are  bounded  N.  by  British  America;  E.  by  the 
Atlantic  Ocean;  S.  by  the  Mexican  Republic;  W.  by  the  Pacific  Ocean. 
The  length  of  the  line  of  the  sea  coast,  from  Passamaquoddy  to  the 
Sabine,  is  about  2800  miles.  The  northern  line  from  Nova  Scotia  to 
the  Pacific  is  more  than  3000.  The  present  number  of  states  is  24  ; 
Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Con- 
necticut, New  York,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  Maryland, 
Virginia,  North  Carolina,  South  Carolina,  Georgia,  Ohio,  Kentucky, 
Indiana,  Illinois,  Tennessee,  Missouri,  Alabama,  Mississippi,  and  Lou- 
isiana. 

There  are  three  organized  territories,  that  send  delegates  to  Congress  ; 
that  is,  Michigan,  Arkansas,  and  Florida.  These  will  shortly  become 
states,  increasing  the  number  to  27.  Beside  these,  there  is  the  North 
Western  Territory,  between  Michigan,  and  the  Mississippi ; at  present  in- 
cluded in  the  limits  of  Michigan ; but  very  remote  from  it,  considerably 
settled,  and  soon  to  become  an  organized  territory;  the  preliminary 
steps  for  that  purpose  having  already  been  taken  by  congress.  West  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  Northwest  of  the  state  of  Missouri  is  the  Missouri 
Territory,  as  yet  unorganized,  having  few  civilized  inhabitants,  except 
hunters  and  trappers;  extending  from  the  Mississippi  and  Missouri, 


4 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW 


west  and  northwest,  to  the  Rocky  Mountains,  South  of  White  River,  and 
west  of  the  Territory  of  Arkansas,  spreads  another  immense  territory  of 
prairies,  bounded  south  by  the  Mexican  Republic,  west  by  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  north  by  the  Territory  of  Missouri,  and  east  by  the  Territory 
of  Arkansas.  The  Territory  of  Oregon,  as  yet  unorganized,  but  contain- 
ing a considerable  number  of  actual  American  settlers,  includes  the 
country  belonging  to  the  United  States,  between  the  territorial  limits  of 
the  Mexican  Republic,  in  California,  on  the  south,  the  Pacific  Ocean  on 
the  west,  the  country  claimed  by  Great  Britain  on  the  Northwest  Coast 
on  the  north,  and  the  Rocky  Mountains  on  the  east.  Beside  these,  there 
is  the  District  of  Columbia,  containing  the  seat  of  the  general  govern- 
ment, and  under  the  jurisdiction  and  legislation  of  that  government. 

This  vast,  country  spreads  from  49°  to  24°  20'  N.  L;  and  from  10°  E. 
L.  to  48°  25'  W.  L.  from  Washington;  comprising  an  area  of  more  than 
2,000,000  square  miles.  No  government  exercises  territorial  jurisdiction 
over  so  much  extent  of  compact  surface,  except  that  of  Russia. 

The  United  States  are  divided  either  by  physical  landmarks,  or  by  dis- 
tinct climates  and  productions,  into  northern,  middle  and  southern,  and 
eastern  and  western  states.  The  northern  states  include  New  England, 
or  all  the  states  east  of  Hudson  River.  The  middle  states  include  all  the 
states  between  Hudson  River  on  the  east,  and  Potomac  on  the  south  and 
west ; including,  west  of  the  Alleghany  Mountains,  Ohio,  Kentucky,  In- 
diana, Illinois,  and  Missouri.  The  southern  states  include  the  country 
south  and  west  of  these  limits. 

Mountains.  The  United  States  are  physically  divided  by  two  great, 
and  two  lesser  chains,  of  mountains.  The  two  great  chains  are  the  Alle- 
ghanies  and  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  lesser  chains  are  the  Green  and 
the  Ozark  Mountains.  The  Green  Mountains  stretch  from  Canada 
through  Vermont,  and  Connecticut  to  Long  Island  Sound.  The  Allegha  ^ 
nies  commence  in  two  continuous  and  parallel  ridges  in  New  York;  be- 
come three  parallel  ridges  in  Pennsylvania;  and  preserving  this  conform- 
ation, stretch  through  Virginia  and  the  southern  states  to  the  Gulf  of 
Mexico.  The  Ozark  Mountains  commence  near  the  Warm  Springs,  in 
the  Territory  of  Arkansas,  and  stretch  northwardly  along  the  sources 
of  White  River  and  St.  Francis;  and  pass  through  the  state  of  Missouri  in 
the  mine  country.  The  Rocky  Mountains  preserve  a general  distance  of 
about  1,200  miles  in  a right  line  west  of  the  Alleghanies.  They  rise  in 
the  Mexican  Republic,  and  stretch  northwardly  on  the  western  boundary 
of  the  Mississippi  Valley ; and  running  parallel  with  the  Mississippi  on  the 
east,  and  the  Pacific  Ocean  on  the  west  they  terminate  in  the  arctic  re- 
gions of  British  America.  Groups  of  isolated  and  detached  mountains 
spring  up  near  these  grand  ranges,  which  to  common  observation,  seem 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES* 


independent;  but  which  are  easily  traced,  by  the  eye  of  the  geologist,  as 
connected  branches  of  these  ranges.  The  Rocky  Mountains  are  by  far 
the  longest,  loftiest  and  broadest  belt  of  these  chains,  showing  numerous 
peaks  of  a much  higher  elevation,  than  has  generally  been  assigned  to 
them,  many  of  them  being  above  the  region  of  perpetual  congelation. 
From  one  point  in  this  range,  and  at  no  great  distance  from  each  other, 
are  the  head  sources  of  the  southwestern  branches  of  the  Missouri,  Co- 
lumbia, the  great  lake  and  river  Rueneventura,  the  Yellow  Stone,  Platte, 
Arkansas,  Red  River  of  the  Mississippi,  Rio  del  Norte,  and  Colorado,  or 
Red  River  of  California,  recently  explored  from  its  head  springs  to  its 
junction  with  the  Pacific  in  the  gulf  of  California  by  James  O.  Pattie. 

hakes.  See  Michigan  Territory  and  Canada. 

Rivers.  For  those  that  belong  to  the  Mississippi  Valley,  see  Western 
States.  The  chief  rivers  of  the  Atlantic  States,  as  we  pass  from  north 
to  south,  are  Kennebec,  Connecticut,  Hudson,  Delaware,  Susquehannah, 
Potomac,  Roanoke,  Pedee,  Santee,  Savannah  and  Chattahouchy.  Of 
these  the  Susquehannah  is  the  largest. 

Geology  and  physical  aspect.  The  northern  division  of  the  Atlantic 
belt  of  the  United  States  is  primitive  in  formation,  and  abounds  in  rock 
of  granitic  character.  Towards  the  Alleghany  Ridges  is  a belt  on  either 
side  of  them  of  transition  character.  We  have  seen,  that  the  western 
valley  is  of  secondary  formation.  The  Atlantic  country  is  a long  belt  of 
a gentle  and  equable  slope  from  the  foot  of  the  Alleghany  Ridges  to  the 
sea.  It  is  subdivided  into  a long  and  narrow  line  of  soil  of  sandy  char- 
acter, apparently  won  from  the  sea;  or  alluvial,  and  of  a more  fertile 
character,  the  formation  of  rivers.  This  belt  extends  from  the  sea  shore 
to  the  upper  limits  of  the  tide  waters.  It  is,  for  the  most  part,  an  ex- 
tended plain.  The  next  division  stretches  from  the  sandy  belt  to  the 
foot  of  the  Alleghany  Ridges.  It  is  of  a loamy  and  more  fertile  soil, 
pleasantly  variegated  by  hill  and  dale,  and  comprises  the  more  wealthy 
and  productive  agricultural  division  of  the  Atlantic  country. 

Climate.  To  pursue  the  details  of  this  article  would  alone  require 
a volume.  The  United  States  embrace  every  variety  of  temperature, 
from  the  cold  sea  air  of  Passamaquoddy  to  the  dry,  elastic  and  severe  tem- 
perature of  the  White  and  Green  Mountains ; softening  through  all  the 
degrees  of  Fahrenheit’s  scale  to  the  climate  congenial  to  the  olive,  sugar 
cane,  and  sweet  orange.  The  variableness  of  the  climate  has  generally  been 
overcharged.  The  range  of  the  mercury  in  the  thermometer  is  indeed  great 
and  sudden;  sometimes  amounting  to  25  and  30  degrees  in  a day.  This 
rapid  mutability  of  temperature,  probably,  produces  a beneficial  correspon- 
ding flexibility  of  constitution.  The  American  people,  from  some  cause, 
are  more  excitable,  and  rapid  in  muscular  movement,  than  the  European 


6 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW 


Stock,  from  which  they  are  derived.  Many  of  our  wealthier  invalids 
cross  the  Atlantic, for  the  benefit  of  climate;  generally,  it  is  believ- 
ed to  a disadvantage.  There  can  be  no  doubt,  that  every  species  of  mal- 
ady, and  physical  infirmity,  upon  which  climate  operates,  may  find  in  the 
wide  and  strong  diversities  of  climate,  furnished  by  some  portion  of  our 
vast  country,  all  the  alleviation,  which  can  be  reasonably  hoped  from  this 
source.  The  best,  as  well  as  the  most  favorable  judges  of  American  cli- 
mate, are  those,  who  have  longest  experimented  the  widest  range  of 
foreign  climates.  Our  country  and  climate,  in  configuration,  character 
and  productions,  correspond  more  nearly  to  that  of  China,  than  any  other; 
and  are  probably,  as  favorable  to  population,  comfortable  occupation  in 
the  open  air,  and  longevity,  as  those  of  countries  much  more  vaunted  in 
these  respects. 

Soil.  The  Atlantic  country  has  every  variety  of  soil,  from  the  poorest 
to  the  best.  The  sandy  belt,  from  the  river  estuaries  to  the  head  of  tide 
waters,  is  principally  a thin  and  meagre,  though  a warm  soil ; and  is  ca- 
pable of  great  fertility  from  artificial  cultivation.  The  belt  between  this 
and  the  mountains  is  .variegated,  though  generally  fertile  and  loamy. 
We  trace  this  belt  through  the  western  part  of  New  York,  the  middle 
region  of  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland ; a more  pleasant,  fertile,  and  pro- 
ductive country,  than  which  could  scarcely  be  desired.  This  belt  is  warm- 
ed, and  enriched  by  dissolved  lime  stone  intermixed  with  the  soil.  The 
estuary  belt  of  New  England,  is  narrow;  and,  almost  immediately  from 
the  sea,  it  swells  into  hills  indented  with  innumerable  vallies,  furnishing 
charming  landscapes,  and  a productive,  though  generally  hard  and  rugged 
soil. 

Productions.  An  infinite  variety  of  plants,  shrubs  and  trees  are  indi- 
genous to  this  wide  country.  In  New  England,  and  as  far  south,  as  Vir- 
ginia, the  most  common  fruits  are  apples  and  pears.  Contrary  to  the 
general  impression  at  the  south,  cultivated  grapes  and  the  silk  mulberry 
succeed  perfectly  well , as  far  north  as  Boston.  The  peccan  and  catalpa 
will  undoubtedly,  naturalize  there.  Peaches  do  not  succeed  well  north 
of  New  Hampshire.  The  common  garden  fruits  are  abundantly  raised  in 
this  whole  extent.  Maize  and  rye  are  the  chief  grains  cultivated  north 
and  east  of  the  Hudson;  maize  and  wheat  in  the  middle  states;  tobacco 
and  cotton  in  the  southern  states  of  the  Mississippi  Valley.  The  sweet 
potatoe,  with  care  in  the  cultivation,  is  raised  in  abundance  and  of  excel- 
lent quality  in  New  Jersey. 

Articles  of  Export . In  Maine,  lumber,  vessels,  butter,  cheese,  beef 
and  pork.  New  Hampshire  is  chiefly  a grazing  state.  Having  but  a 
very  narrow  line  of  sea  coast,  her  facilities  for  the  lumber  trade  are  com- 
paratively small.  Vermont  is  famed  for  the  finest  beef,  and  the  richest 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


7 


grazing  in  the  United  States.  Since  its  connection  with  New  York  by 
the  Champlain  canal,  Vermont  has  come  in  for  a share  in  the  lumber 
business.  Massachusetts  furnishes  the  general  products  of  New  England, 
together  with  a great  amount  of  salted  and  pickled  fish,  the  product  of 
her  extensile  fisheries.  She  has,  also,  a natural  aptitude  for  various 
sorts  of  manufactures,  being  the  greatest  manufacturing  state  in  the 
union.  The  middle  states  add  to  the  productions  of  New  England  wheat 
and  flour.  From  the  southern  Atlantic  States  the  chief  exports  are  to- 
bacco and  cotton:  and  from  the  Southern  States  of  the  Mississippi  Valley 
sugar  and  cotton.  Since  the  home  trade  of  the  United  States  has  be- 
come one  of  the  most  important  elements  of  our  prosperity,  our  foreign 
trade  has  not  advanced  in  a ratio  so  great,  as  in  past  periods.  The  ex- 
porting states  rank  in  the  following  order;  New  York,  Louisiana,  Massa- 
chusetts, Pennsylvania,  South  Carolina ; and  the  whole  amount  generally 
ranges  from  60  to  70  millions  of  dollars.  In  1829  it  was  72,558,671 
lollars. 

Chief  Towns  will  be  noted  under  the  head  of  their  states.  They  rank 
n the  following  order;  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Boston,  New 
Orleans,  Charleston,  Cincinnati. 

Canals  are  bisecting  the  country  in  every  direction.  So  strong  has 
he  impulse  of  the  public  mind  recently  become,  in  the  direction  of  mak- 
ng  canals  and  rail  roads,  that  timid  legislators  have  shrunk  from  these 
mterprises;  as  fearful,  that  the  spirit  was  running  beyond  the  limits  of 
sound  calculation.  But  the  community  is  daily  becoming  enlightened 
ipon  the  subject,  by  the  sure  and  unerring  teaching  of  experience.  If 
some  great  calamity  do  not  arrest  the  onward  progress  of  our  country,  fifty 
pears  will  not  elapse,  before  wagons  drawn  by  animal  power  will  gener- 
illy  have  given  place  to  canal  boats,  or  rail-road  cars  impelled  by  steam; 
ind  the  whole  country  will  be  chequered  by  canals  and  rail-roads,  as  it 
row  is  by  the  bad  and  deep  common  roads  of  the  country.  Details  in  re- 
gard to  the  names,  number  and  extent  of  the  canals,  will  be  presented 
lereafter  in  a tabular  view.  There  are  not  far  from  1500  miles  of  canal 
low  in  actual  use,  and  500  miles  more  are  laid  out,  as  in  actual  progress 
owards  completion.  Of  these  the  longest  and  most  important,  in  com- 
plete operation,  is  the  New  York  and  Erie  canal,  360  miles  in  length. 
Fhe  canal  connecting  Philadelphia  with  Pittsburgh,  in  a continuous  chain 
if  a number  of  different  canals,  will  comprise  when  completed,  an  extent 
if  between  3 and  400  miles,  being  by  far  the  longest  in  the  United  States. 
Fhe  Ohio  and  Erie  Canal  is  a stupendous  work  306  miles  in  extent, 
miting  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  with  the  Ohio.  The  Chesapeake 
tnd  Ohio  canal,  now  in  progress,  is  intended  to  unite  the  waters  of  the 
otomac  at  Washington  city  with  the  Ohio  river,  and  Pennsyvania  canal 


8 


BRIEF  GENERAL  .VIEW 


at  Pittsburgh,  Of  thirty  canals  in  operation,  or  progress,  these  are  the 
most  important. 

Rail  Roads  though  less  experimented,  are  becoming  common  objects 
of  contemplation.  One  for  a short  distance  in  Quincy  in  Massachusetts 
conveys  granite  from  the  quarry  to  tide  waters.  One  from  the  summit  of 
Mauch  Chunk  coal  hill,  connecting  it  with  a branch  of  the  Pennsylvania 
canal,  is  in  successful  operation.  A rail  road  is  constructing  at  Charles- 
ton, South  Carolina.  One  is  completed  connecting  Albany  with  Sche- 
nectady in  New  York.  A rail  road  connects  New  Orleans,  with  lake 
Ponchartrain.  One  of  gigantic  features  is  in  progress,  and  two  consid- 
erable sections  of  it  finished,  to  pass  from  the  Chesapeake  to  the  Ohio. 
Loco-motive  rail  cars  have  been  driven  upon  this  with  a speed  and  facil- 
ity to  justify  all  the  reasonable  expectations,  that  have  been  raised  by 
accounts  of  their  success  in  England.  Others  are  commencing  in  points 
too  numerous  to  mention.  A project  still  more  Herculean,  than  any 
yet  commenced,  has  excited  much  attention  in  New  York.  It  proposes 
to  make  a rail  way  from  that  city  over  the  Alleghany  mountains,  through 
the  states  of  Ohio,  Indiana  and  Illinois,  to  the  Mississippi.  Rail  roads, 
though  growing  into  public  favor,  from  their  rapidity  of  transport,  and  the 
great  effect  of  the  power  applied  upon  them,  together  with  the  advantage 
that  they  are  not  liable  like  canals,  to  be  impeded  by  frost,  are  still  in 
comparison  with  canals,  matters  of  question,  in  regard  to  their  compara- 
tive cheapness  and  utility. 

These  projects  would  have  seemed  visionary  and  chimerical,  had  not 
many  works,  which  were  viewed,  but  a few  years  since,  equally  so,  been 
carried  into  execution,  with  results  outstripping  the  most  sanguine  calcu- 
lations. It  has  been  discovered,  as  a new  demonstration  in  political 
economy,  that  such  works,  if  wisely  executed,  enrich  instead  of  impover- 
ishing a country.  Nothing  but  physical  impossibilities,  are  beyond  the 
sober  hopes  of  a great  and  growing  people,  whose  national  wealth  is  accu- 
mulating, and  whose  physical  resources,  are  constantly  developing  by  new 
discoveries  of  the  materials  necessary  to  bring  those  resources  into  play. 
The  number  of  miles  of  canal  and  rail  road,  which  will  be  in  use,  when 
the  public  works  of  this  sort,  now  under  contract,  shall  be  completed, 
will  exceed  4200  miles. 

Population  advances  with  a steady  step  with  these  improvements ; or 
rather  they  are  the  scale  by  which  its  advance  may  be  measured.  Fresh, 
cheap  and  abundant  lands  together  with  the  protection  and  encourage- 
ment of  free  institutions  are  the  natural  elements  of  a rapid  increase  of 
population.  Instead  of  any  other  attempt  at  illustrating  our  increase,  we 
present  the  following  view  of  it,  as  presented  by  the  census  of  different 
years.  In  1790,  it  was  3,929,827.  In  1800, 5,305,925.  In  1810, 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES# 


9 


7,289,314.  In  1820,  9,638,131.  In  1830,  12,850,487.  Of  this  popu 
lation,the  greatest  amount  on  a given  space  is  found  in  New  England, 
particularly  in  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut,*  if  we  except  a parallelo- 
gram of  equally  dense,  or  greater  population,  extending  westwardly  from 
the  Delaware  to  the  Susquehannah,  70  miles  in  length,  and  60  miles  in 
breadth.  Massachusetts  has  72  persons  upon  each  square  mile  of  its  sur- 
face. Some  of  the  western  states  have  not  more  than  one  person,  on  an 
average,  in  the  same  extent. 

Schools.  The  noble  and  truly  republican  system  of  free  schools  exists 
in  New  England,  and  in  Ohio.  It  is  extending  its  influence  in  all  the 
northern  and  middle  States.  New  York  has  devised  another  plan  of  gen- 
eral education,  of  great  efficiency  and  sustained  with  a munificence,  in 
which  this  great  state  stands  alone.  Schools  supported  by  private  con- 
tribution, seminaries,  academies,  high  schools  for  both  sexes,  lyceums, 
medical,  law  and  theological  schools  are  springing  up  with  each  new 
session  of  the  legislatures.  Assuming  the  number  of  children  taught  in 
the  different  schools  in  New  York,  as  a basis,  we  may  calculate  the  number 
of  actual  pupils  in  the  United  States  at  one  million.  Another  million 
are  as  yet  untaught.  There  are  50  incorporated  colleges  in  the  United 
States;  and  in  New  England  and  New  York  229  incorporated  acade- 
mies. Supposing  this  division  of  the  union  to  eontain  half  of  those  in 
the  United  States,  there  will  be  a total  of  458.  The  standard  of  the 
requisite  character  and  qualifications  of  instructers  has  been  elevated 
by  the  great  and  laudable  exertions  of  associations  of  teachers.  The 
school  books  are  of  a higher  and  more  instructive  stamp.  In  no  depart- 
ment of  the  improvements  of  the  age  has  more  been  done,  than  in  the 
cause  of  general  education;  and  in  none  does  more  yet  remain  to  be 
done.  Our  institutions  can  never  be  based  on  the  right  foundation,  until 
the  whole  community  receive  a substantial  and  virtuous  education. 

Religion  is  left  to  the  voluntary  choice  of  the  people,  no  sect  being 
favored  by  the  laws  beyond  another,  it  Being  an  essential  principle  in  the 
national  and  state  governments,  that  legislation  may  of  right  interfere  in 
the  concerns  of  public  worship  only  so  far,  as  to  protect  every  individual 
in  the  unmolested  exercise  of  that  of  his  choice.  Hence  all  the  sects  of 
Christianity  are  abundantly  represented  in  our  country.  The  methodists 
are,  probably,  the  most  numerous  denomination.  The  rpresbyterians, 
congregationalists,  baptists,  episcopalians,  and  Roman  Catholics,  proba- 
bly, rank,  in  point  of  numbers,  in  the  order,  in  which  they  are  here  men- 
tioned. The  Cumberland  presbyterians  and  Christians  are  growing 
denominations.  There  are  nearly  10,000  fixed  congregations  of  the  dif- 
ferent denominations.  The  income  of  the  different  religious,  charitable, 
missionary,  bible,  tract,  education  and  Sunday  school  societies  is  about 
Vol.  11  2 


10 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW 


500,000  dollars  annually.  There  are  25  theological  seminaries,  in  which 
young  gentlemen  of  the  different  denominations  are  trained  for  their 
respective  ministries,  from  which  between  2 and  300  are  annually 
graduated. 

Military  Force . Beside  an  organized  militia  of  about  a million,  the 
General  Government  keeps  up  a small  standing  army,  distributed  in  sta- 
tions along  the  sea  board,  and  the  extensive  frontier.  The  remotest  posts 
are  at  St.  Peters  on  the  Upper  Mississippi*  at  the  Council  Bluffs  on  the 
Missouri,  at  Kiamesia,  or  Kimichie,  on  Red  River,  and  at  Cantonment 
Jessup  not  far  from  the  Sabine.  The  naval  force  consists  of  7 ships  of 
the  line,  10  frigates,  15  sloops  of  war,  and  7 armed  schooners,  and  is  as 
powerful  and  efficient  a force,  measured  by  the  number  of  guns,  as  can 
be  shown  by  any  country.  In  1829  the  whole  tonnage  of  the  United 
States  shipping  was  1,741,391.  The  same  year  there  was  freighted  from 
the  United  States  133,000  tons  of  foreign  shipping.  One-fourth  of  the 
shipping  is  owned  in  Massachusetts ; and  the  next  largest  amounts  in 
New  York.  Maryland  and  Pennsylvania  rank  next  in  order,  as  ship- 
owning states. 

Revenue — Has  been  chiefly  derived  hitherto  from  customs,  or  duties 
paid  by  merchants  on  goods  imported,  and  from  the  sales  of  public  lands. 
It  is  in  common  years,  not  far  from  $25,000,000.  This  amount,  in  the 
ordinary  and  peaceable  progress  of  the  government,  exceeds  the  expendU 
tures,  and  the  interest  of  the  national  debt,  leaving  a considerable  unap- 
propriated balance  in  the  national  treasury.  The  national  debt,  in  the 
present  course  of  things,  will  be  extinguished  in  a few  years.  It  has 
already  become,  in  anticipation,  a question  of  congressional  discussion, 
in  what  manner  the  surplus  remainder  shall  be  appropriated,  after  the 
national  debt  shall  have  been  liquidated. 

Federal  Constitution.  This  instrument  contains  the  compact  of  out* 
national  confederation.  It  guarantees  religious  and  political  freedom; 
and  is  probably  the  most  simple  and  well  digested  charter  of  political 
liberty,  that  was  ever  penned.  This  instrument  is  too  well  known  to 
require  us  to  give  any  thing  more  than  some  of  its  prominent  features. 
The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  Congress,  composed  of  a Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives.  The  judicial  power  is  in  the  Supreme  and 
Circuit  Courts,  presided  over  by  judges  appointed  during  good  behavior, 
The  executive  authority  is  in  the  President.  Each  state  furnishes  two 
Senators;  and  Representatives  in  number  and  ratio  as  follows:  they  are 
chosen  by  the  people  biennially,  each  state  being  entitled  to  a number 
proportionate  to  its  population,  in  a ratio  in  the  states,  which  do  not  admit 
slavery  of  1 to  every  40,000  souls;  and  in  the  states  where  there  are 
slaves  of  1 for  every  40,000  of  the  free  population,  and  one  for  every 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


11 


66,666  of  the  slaves.  The  relative  proportions  of  the  representation  are 
settled  every  tenth  year,  immediately  after  taking  the  census. 

It  is  an  unfortunate  fact,  that  the  purest  efforts  of  abstract  reason  and 
wisdom  cannot  be  divested  of  the  taint  of  the  passions.  This  instru- 
ment, devised  by  as  enlightened  men  and  as  pure  patriots  as  have  lived, 
is  still  a human  production,  and  could  not  exercise  a prophetic  ken,  to 
settle  questions  growing  out  of  relations  which  no  foresight  could  have 
foreseen.  It  has  become  as  the  apple  of  discord,  a question,  how  far  it 
grants  powers  by  construction?  where  its  power  terminates,  and  that  of 
the  state  constitutions  commence?  And  what  umpire  shall  determine 
what  are  infractions  of  its  authority?  And  how  the  penalties  of  those 
infractions  shall  be  inflicted  ? No  community  has  existed  that  could  fairly 
trace  a greater  amount  of  political  prosperity  and  happiness  to  a charter 
of  government,  than  the  United  States  to  the  operation  of  the  federal 
constitution.  Every  patriot  will  carry  il  by  acclamations,  to  which  all  but 
Catalines,  and  those  who  delight  in  political  storms  for  the  plunder  of  the 
wrecks,  will  respond— esto  perpetual 

Aborigines.  From  the  apparent  incompatibility  of  the  Indian  char- 
acter with  the  modes  and  requirements  of  civilized  life,  this  ill-fated  race 
is  every  where  wasting  away,  when  brought  in  contact  with  people  of 
municipal  and  industrious  habits.  The  whole  number  existing  at  present 
within  the  territorial  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States,  more  probably 
falls  short  of  300  ,000,  than  exceeds  that  number.  Of  this  number  half 
reside  east  and  half  west  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  The  most  humane 
exertions  have  constantly  been  in  operation,  on  the  part  of  the  General 
Government,  to  preserve  the  race  from  extinction,  by  severe  provisions  to 
prevent  their  obtaining  ardent  spirits,  and  by  unwearied  efforts  to  train 
them  to  the  the  arts  and  agriculture,  and  to  impart  to  them  the  blessings 
of  education  and  Christianity. 

Under  the  system  adopted  by  the  government,  140  agents  and  sub- 
agents, interpreters  and  mechanics  are  employed  among  the  different 
Indian  tribes,  to  carry  these  purposes  into  effect ; and  the  President  is 
authorized  to  cause  the  stores  of  the  licensed  traders  to  be  searched,  and 
if  ardent  spirits  are  found  among  the  articles  for  sale,  the  whole  goods 
are  forfeited  to  the  government. 

The  whole  number  of  Indian  schools  established  among  them,  partly 
by  charitable  associations  of  the  different  religious  denominations,  and 
partly  by  pecuniary  aid  from  the  government,  is  44,  The  government 
bestows  upon  the  maintenance  of  these  schools,  about  $10,000  annually. 
The  whole  number  of  Indian  children  receiving  instruction,  amounts  to 
1,500. 


12 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW 


Public  Lands.  The  greatest  portion  of  the  unoccupied  lands  of  the 
United  States  constitute  the  national  domain,  and  is  the  property  of  the 
United  States,  The  property  of  these  lands  has  been  acquired  by  the 
United  States  by  cession  of  the  individual  States,  by  acknowledged  ter- 
ritorial jurisdiction,  by  purchase  or  cession  from  foreign  states,  and  by 
the  extinction  of  the  Indian  title  to  them.  The  officers  of  the  Land 
Office  are  a Register,  and  Receiver  of  public  monies. 

The  lands  are  surveyed  before  they  are  offered  for  sale,  and  are  divided 
into  townships  six  miles  square,  which  are  subdivided  into  36  sections, 
each  a mile  square,  and  containing  640  acres.  . These  are  again  subdi- 
vided into  half,  quarter,  and  half-quarter  sections,  the  smallest  tracts  sold 
by  the  government.  The  credit  system  is  abolished,  and  the  terms  of 
sale  are  cash  previous  to  the  entry,  or  government  deed.  The  lands  are 
first  exposed  to  sale  at  auction,  by  proclamation  of  the  President.  The 
highest  bidder  at  this  sale  failing  to  pay,  the  tract  is  offered  again,  and  the 
failing  bidder  is  declared  incapable  of  purchasing  at  the  sales.  The 
minimum  price  of  land  is  one  dollar  and  twenty-five  cents  an  acre.  Lands 
forfeited  for  non-payment  must  be  offered  first  at  public  sale.  Choice 
tracts  and  favorite  positions  command  good  prices  at  the  public  sales. 
But  the  greater  portion  of  the  lands  remain  unsold,  after  the  public  sales, 
and  are  entered  at  private  sale.  Those  lands  for  which  $1  25  are  not 
offered,  remain  unsold,  and  the  property  of  the  United  States.  Salt 
springs  and  lead  mines  are  reserved  from  this  sale ; but  may  be  leased  by 
the  President.  One  section  of  640  acres  is  reserved  in  every  township 
for  literary  purposes.  In  cases  of  different  applications,  at  private  sale, 
for  the  same  tract,  the  highest  bidder  is  to  have  the  preference.  By  this 
admirable  system  all  the  townships  and  subdivisions  are  in  regular  mathe- 
matical forms,  precluding  the  fruitful  source  of  litigation,  arising  from  the 
uncertainty  of  butts  and  bounds,  in  forms  with  curve,  meandering,  or 
zigzag  lines.  Those  forms  so  universal  in  the  farms  of  the  old  set- 
tlements, are  not  only  difficult  matters  of  adjustment  between  contiguous 
owners,  and  exceedingly  inconvenient  for  fencing,  but  are  unsightly  and 
offensive  to  the  eye.  It  is  inconceivable  that  the  beautiful  square  forms 
of  the  present  land  system  should  not  have  been  suggested  to  the  first 
settlers  of  the  United  States. 

The  land  sales  unite  three  essential  objects,  the  right  of  selection  by  the 
highest  bidder  at  the  public  sales,  extreme  cheapness  at  the  private  sales, 
and  a title  of  a clearness  and  unquestionable  surety  commensurate  with 
the  stability  of  the  government.  The  convenience  and  excellence  of  this 
system  constitute  an  essential  element  in  the  rapid  population  of  the  new 
states. 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES# 


13 


Public  Debt.  In  1830  the  unfunded  debt  amounted  to  $40,729,000; 
and  the  whole  national  debt  to  $48,566,406;  and  at  the  ratio  of  redemp- 
tion, in  seven  preceding  years,  will  all  be  paid  in  1834. 

Appropriations.  The  whole  amount  of  appropriations,  in  the  year 
1830,  for  the  current  expenses  of  the  year,  was  $13,528,845.  This,  of 
course,  does  not  include  the  appropriations  of  former  years  for  the  pay- 
ment of  the  public  debt,  and  various  instalments  due  from  the  govern- 
ment, amounting  to  $12,315,245— making  the  total  estimated  expendi- 
tures of  the  year  $25,844,090. . 

Manufactures.  Under  this  head  we  only  mention  in  this  place  the  two 
recent  establishments  of  the  cotton  and  woollen  manufactures.  There 
are  400  cotton  factories  in  New  England,  and  280  in  the  remaining  por- 
tion of  the  United  States;  680  in  all.  Of  these  135  are  in  Massachu- 
setts; 110  in  Rhode  Island;  80  in  Connecticut;  and  50  in  New  Hamp- 
shire. It  is  calculated,  that  32,000,000  lbs.  of  wool  were  manufactured 
in  the  United  States  in  1829,  giving  full  or  partial  employment  to  100,000 
persons. 

General  Remarks.  The  Canal  and  Rail  Road  system  has  already 
presented  the  resources  of  our  great  country  in  an  entirely  new  aspect. 
The  rich  and  the  poor  of  the  northern  cities,  instead  of  banishing  the 
inclemency  of  winter  by  fuel  from  the  forests  of  Maine,  rafted  down  the 
rivers,  and  shipped  over  a stormy  sea,  are  warmed  by  coal  dug  from  moun ' 
tains  in  the  interior  of  Pennsylvania,  which,  a few  years  since,  could  not 
have  been  transported  to  New  York  or  Boston  for  four  times  its  value. 
It  is  now,  in  those  places,  a cheaper  fuel  than  wood.  The  cities  are 
building  up  with  stone  and  marble  from  remote  points  of  the  interior, 
where,  according  to  the  former  modes  of  transport,  they  would  have  re- 
mained forever  unmoved.  The  wood  cutter  of  the  shores  of  Lake  Erie 
finds  in  its  forests  cabinet  woods  for  the  city  of  London.  The  northern 
shores  of  Ohio  send  their  cherry,  black  walnut,  and  maple  timber  to  the 
interior  of  Massachusetts.  The  rugged  mountains  of  the  AHeghanies, 
along  the  path  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  will  send  their  vast  piles  of 
nature-hewn  cubic  blocks  of  beautiful  white  sand  stone  to  build  up  the 
streets  of  Philadelphia. 

Every  month  is  disclosing  discoveries  of  minerals,  the  precious  metals, 
the  important  and  useful  fossils,  pit  coal,  beautiful  marbles,  quarries 
of  building  stone,  clays  and  -earths  for  porcelain,  and  an  exhaustless 
abundance  of  ores  of  iron  and  lead,  and  salt  springs,  evincing  that  a 
country,  originally  pronounced  destitute  in  these  respects,  compared  with 
the  mother  country,  is  singularly  rich  and  fortunate,  possessing,  in  great 
abundance  those  materials,  hidden  in  the  earth,  which  are  essential  ele- 
ments in  developing  national  wealth  and  power. 


14 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW 


A wide  belt,  commencing  on  the  southern  slopes  of  the  mountainous 
country  in  Virginia,  and  running  thence  through  North  Carolina,  South 
Carolina,  and  Georgia  into  the  highlands  of  Alabama,  inhabited  by  the 
Creeks  and  Cherokees,  has  been  discovered  within  a few  years  to  be  rich  in 
ores  of  gold.  It  is  found,  too,  in  lumps  of  native  gold.  Some  of  the  largest 
masses  of  native  gold  that  have  ever  been  discovered,  have  been  found 
here.  This  extensive  belt  is  covered  with  thousands  of  miners  and  ad- 
venturers. Great  amounts  of  gold  are  already  furnished  to  the  national 
mint,  and  this  region  may  hereafter  vie  in  productiveness  with  the  mines  of 
Mexico  and  Peru.  Whether  these  mines  will  be  a national  resource  and 
advantage,  is  an  experiment  that  remains  to  be  tested.  In  Missouri, 
Illinois,  and  the  new  Territory  of  Huron  are  as  rich  lead  mines  as  the 
world  can  offer.  The  northern  parts  of  the  latter  territory  abound, 
also,  in  copper.  The  great  proportion  of  the  American  people  are 
farmers,  comparing  with  the  total  of  those  engaged  in  ail  other  pursuits, 
as  five  to  one.  The  number  of  merchants  at  present  engaged  in  com- 
merce is  about  80,000.  Of  these,  in  proportion  to  the  whole  population, 
Michigan  Territory  furnishes  the  largest  proportion,  from  the  number  of 
persons  engaged  in  the  fur  trade,  the  trade  on  the  lakes,  and  as  trapping 
woodsmen.  Massachusetts  has  the  greatest  proportion  of  any  one  of  the 
states,  and  Louisiana  the  next  largest  relative  proportion.  The  number 
of  manufacturers  amounts  to  nearly  500,000,  The  number  of  farmers 
exceed  2,000,000. 

The  means  of  information  possessed  by  the  people  of  the  United  States 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fact,  that  more  than  1,500  periodicals,  chiefly 
newspapers,  are  circulated  in  every  town  and  village,  from  Maine  to  the 
Sabine,  being  a greater  number  of  periodicals  than  circulates  in  any  other 
country.  Of  the  character  of  these  periodicals  it  is  unnecessary  to 
speak.  In  a perfectly  free  country,  it  is  a misfortune  inseparable  from 
freedom,  that  ignorance  and  deception,  and  the  passions  will  speak  along 
with  truth.  But  where  truth  is  left  perfectly  free  to  combat  error,  the 
balance  must  always  incline  to  the  aid  of  the  diffusion  of  useful  inform^ 
tion  and  truth.  From  this  immense  number  of  papers  and  periodicals, 
it  follows,  that  every  body  is,  or  assumes  to  be  a politician  and  legislator. 
The  dispatch  of  the  mails  over  more  than  100,000  miles  of  post  roads  is 
rapid ; and  the  best  proof  of  the  security  of  mail  conveyance  is,  that  the 
conveyance  of  money  is  safe.  The  official  catalogue  of  the  post  offices 
is  a considerable  volume,  showing  some  thousands  of  post  offices.  The 
people  of  the  United  States  ought  to  be  a nation  of  orators.  From  the 
session  of  congress  to  that  of  each  state  legislature,  every  constituent 
assembly,  every  one  of  the  almost  innumerable  meetings  of  the  people 
furnishes  a call  for  public  speaking.  More  voice  and  breath  are  expended 


OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 


15 


in  this  way  by  the  people  of  the  Union,  in  proportion  to  their  numbers, 
than  in  any  other  country.  Tediousness,  prolixity,  and  an  unsparing 
superfluity  of  words  are  evils  generated  by  this  order  of  things.  But 
while  it  gives  birth  to  multitudes  of  windy,  inane  and  impudent  dema- 
gogues, it  forms  at  the  same  time  an  uncommon  proportion  of  the  com- 
munity to  fluent  and  graceful  public  speaking. 

The  tendency  of  the  age  in  general,  and  of  our  country  in  particular, 
is  to  achieve  great  works  by  corporate  associations.  Men  have  learned 
that  their  individual  power  is  increased  by  making  a part  of  corporate 
power.  It  is  an  age  of  associations  for  literary  and  charitable  purposes. 
The  vocabulary  of  terms  has  been  exhausted  to  find  names  for  the  nu- 
merous societies  that  have  sprung  up  within  the  few  past  years.  Among 
them  every  philanthropist  will  notice  with  pleasure  those  that  have  been 
formed  for  the  suppression  of  intemperance,  for  the  advancement  of  edu- 
cation, and  for  the  melioration  of  the  condition  of  the  poor.  A more 
striking  illustration  of  the  tendency  of  such  societies,  and  which  is  worth 
a volume  of  declamation  on  the  subject,  cannot  be  given,  than  is  furnish- 
ed by  the  fact,  that  in  the  single  city  of  Boston,  within  30  years  past,  there 
have  been  collected,  chiefly  by  these  associations,  for  charitable  purposes, 
$1,809,045. 

In  regard  to  the  general  appearance  of  the  United  States,  New  Eng- 
land is  dotted  in  every  direction  with  neat  and  populous  villages.  All 
the  great  manufacturing  establishments  collect  villages  round  them;  as 
effects  of  course.  Lowell,  Waltham,  and  Pawtucket  may  serve  as  strik- 
ing examples.  Every  hill  side  opens  to  view  these  noble  erections,  and 
gladdens  the  eye  with  the  spires  of  churches.  New  York,  in  its  whole 
extent,  especially  the  western  part,  offers  a sample  of  this  order  of  things 
particularly  to  those,  who  can  remember,  when  the  country  on  the  line  of 
the  canal,  and  the  beautiful  country  of  the  small  lakes  was  all  a continue 
ous  and  unbroken  forest.  Rochester  rises,  a proud  index  of  the  astom 
ishing  changes  wrought  in  this  country  in  a few  years. 

Pennsylvania  and  Ohio  have  not  fallen  behind,  in  this  march  of  im* 
provement.  Many  neat,  new,  and  cheerful  looking  villages  are  won  from 
the  forest  every  two  or  three  years.  The  prodigious  extent  of  travel,  for 
business  or  pleasure,  establishing  an  intercourse  of  kindness  between  the 
remote  points  of  the  union,  have  more  than  kept  pace  with  the  improve- 
ment of  roads,  canals,  steam  boats,  hotels,  carriages,  and  every  thing 
connected  with  transport  and  travel.  This  order  of  things  is  visibly  less 
perceptible  in  the  slave  states,  than  the  free  states ; and  least  of  all  in  the 
Atlantic  states  south  of  the  Potomac.  In  proceeding  in  this  direction,  it 
is  distincly  seen,  thaLthe  influence  of  slavery  is  adverse  to  great  national 
works,  to  neat  and  flourishing  villages,  and  compactness  of  an  industrious 


16 


BRIEF  GENERAL  VIEW  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES. 

and  intelligent  population.  Villages  and  church  spires  become  rare 
Objects.  Isolated  mansions  arise  at  great  distances  from  each  other,  sur- 
rounded by  the  singular  contrast  of  negro  hovels.  These  mansions,  it  is 
true,  are  generally  the  abodes  of  the  most  sensitive  honor,  intelligence, 
and  hospitality.  But  the  contrast,  of  the  hovels  and  the  mansion  can 
never  cease  to  be  a painful  spectacle  to  the  eye. 

The  Colonization  society  is  calling  the  public  attention  to  the  gradual 
and  ultimate  removal  of  this  evil,  acknowledged  by  every  one  to  be  of 
portentous  aspect.  It  could  be  wished,  that  writers  and  declaimers  upon 
the  subject  of  the  evils  of  slavery  had  been  in  all  cases  sensible  and  sober 
men  of  temperate  minds  and  a kind  spirit;  and  in  fact,  that  they  had 
been  always  honest  men.  Angry  and  unsparing  declamation  and  appeals 
to  the  vindictive  feelings  of  the  unthinking  in  the  free  states  are  not  the 
true  remedies  for  an  order  of  things,  which  commenced  in  the  germ  of 
our  country’s  growth,  and  has  grown  up  with  it,  as  a chronic  malady,  to  be 
cured  by  slow  and  gentle  remedies;  and  only  to  be  successfully  treated 
by  humane  and  temperate  minded  men,  who  see  things  as  they  are.  The 
grand  remedy,  as  it  seems  to  us,  is  to  be  expected  in  the  increasing  light 
and  humanity  of  the  age.  At  some  distant  period,  the  entire  extinction 
of  slavery  will  arrive,  as  a certain  result  of  the  tendency  of  the  age 
towards  purer  reason  and  more  enlightened  views  of  liberty. 

The  voice  of  the  Peace  society  is  beginning  to  be  heard  in  the  land. 
It  is  making  great  and  laudable,  and  we  will  hope  ultimately  successful 
exertions  to  inculcate  Peace  on  earth  and  good  will  to  men. 

On  the  whole,  it  is  believed,  that  no  country  contains  so  great  a pro- 
portion of  educated,  well  housed,  fed  and  clothed  population,  living  in 
so  much  freedom  and  content,  as  the  people  of  the  United  States. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


MAINE. 

The  states  east  of  Hudson’s  river  and  New  York  are  called  New  Eng- 
land, and  comprise  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts, 
Rhode  Island  and  Connecticut.  We  commence  with  Maine,  constitut- 
ing the  north  east  extremity  of  the  United  States.  It  lies  between  43°  5' 
and  48°  3'  N.  L.  and  6°  and  10°  8'  E.  L.  from  Washington.  It  em- 
braces an  area  of  32,000  square  miles.  It  is  bounded  N . and  E.  by  lower 
Canada  and  New  Brunswick ; S.  by  the  Atlantic ; W.  by  New  Hampshire. 

The  soil  is  generally  level  and  clayey  along  the  seashore,  and  moderately 
fertile.  In  the  interior,  and  on  the  banks  of  the  rivers  it  is  fine.  The 
face  of  the  country  gradually  becomes  elevated,  as  we  ascend  from  the 
coast.  Towards  the  Canada  frontier,  it  becomes  rugged  and  mountain- 
ous. Agamenticus,  an  isolated  mountain  of  considerable  height,  and 
a noted  land  mark  for  mariners,  rises  in  York. 

Climate  is  severe,  with  five  months  of  decided  winter;  but  it  is  com- 
paratively uniform,  and  very  salubrious. 

Productions  are  wheat,  Indian  corn,  rye,  barley,  grass,  pulse,  potatoes 
of  the  best  kind,  fine  pasturage,  and  the  products  of  pasturage,  immense 
amounts  of  timber,  masts  and  spars,  staves,  boards  and  plank,  wood  and 
lumber.  Most  of  the  sea  ports  of  Massachusetts  east  of  Cape  Cod  are 
furnished  with  their  chief  fuel  from  this  state,  and  its  lumber  is  exported 
to  all  foreign  parts , that  admit  our  lumber.  The  climate,  though  severe, 
is  so  uniform,  that  the  productions  are  of  a class,  that  could  not  be  ex- 
pected from  its  temperature.  Apple  trees,  for  example,  flourish  in  the 
interior;  and  there  are  fine  orchards  of  this  fruit,  and  more  especially  of 
pear  trees.  Among  the  wild  fruits  are  gooseberries,  currrants,  wild  plums, 
cherries  and  grapes  and  the  greatest  abundance  of  cranberries.  The  ex- 
tensive strand  of  sea  coast  is  supplied  by  the  waves  with  vast  quantities 
of  rock  weed,  which  is  an  excellent  manure.  The  alluvion  of  Kennebec 
Vol.  IL  3 


18 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


is  both  fertile  and  delightful.  Noble  forests  of  the  terebinth] nes,  ever- 
greens, spruces,  firs,  and  pines  spread  over  the  state,  wherever  the  lum- 
berer’s or  the  cultivator’s  axe  has  not  been  plied.  The  birch  and  beech 
forests  are  exceedingly  deep  and  heavy,  and  the  long  line  of  coast,  the 
numerous  bays,  and  navigable  waters  give  these  forests  a value,  which 
they  have  in  no  other  portions  of  the  forest  country  of  the  United  States. 

Harbors.  This  state  has  a greater  extent  of  sea  coast,  and  more  good 
harbors,  than  any  other  in  the  union ; and  in  point  of  amount  of  tonnage 
of  shipping  owned,  ranks  the  fourth  among  the  maritime  states.  The 
counties  are  as  follows.  York,  York;  Cumberland,  Portland ; Lincoln? 
Wiscasset;  Hancock,  Castine;  Washington,  Machias ; Oxford,  Paris ; 
Kennebec  Augusta;  Somerset,  NorridgewocJc ; Waldo,  Belfast;  Penob- 
scot, Bangor.  Population  in  1820,  298,  335.  In  1830,  399,468. 

Bays — Are  Casco,  Penobscot,  Frenchman’s  and  Passamaquoddy. 

Rivers.  St.  Croix,  Penobscot,  Kennebec,  Androscoggin,  Saco,  Pis 
cataqua,  and  many  smaller  streams. 

Lakes . Umbagog  and  Moose  head  are  the  largest.  In  the  northern 
parts  of  the  state,  which  are  almost  unexplored  forest,  there  are  a great 
many  lakes,  which  are  as  yet  but  partially  known.  Deep  clear  ponds? 
from  two  to  five  or  six  miles  in  circumference,  abound  in  the  inte- 
rior, and  afford  the  finest  fresh  water  fish.  Immense  supplies  of  sea  fish 
are  furnished  by  the  numerous  bays  and  inlets  on  the  sea  shore.  The 
salmon  and  shad  of  the  larger  streams  are,  also,  in  their  season  a great 
resource  to  the  inhabitants. 

Manufactures.  The  avails  exceed  3,000,000  dollars  and  are  increasing. 

Towns.  Portland,  the  capital,  is  a neat  and  handsomely  built  town  on 
a peninsula  projecting  into  Casco  Bay  and  is  115  miles  N.  E.  from 
Boston.  Its  noble  safe  and  capacious  harbor  is  seldom  frozen.  Its 
public  buildings  are  ten  houses  for  public  worship,  a state  house,  court 
house,  alms  house,  market  house,  town  house,  two  banks,  an  insurance 
office  and  an  academy.  There  are  a number  of  fine  boarding  schools, 
and  private  and  common  schools,  a town  library,  and  one  for  apprentices. 
A stone  light  house,  70  feet  high,  marks  the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  It 
is  defended  by  two  forts,  and  beautified  by  a conspicuous  observatory  on 
the  pinnacle  of  Mount  Joy.  Its  relative  position  to  the  surrounding 
country  is  fine.  A canal  was  projected,  some  years  since,  which  by  an 
excavation  of  five  or  six  miles,  would  give  this  town  a command  of  water 
communications  of  40  or  50  miles  with  the  interior.  The  principal  ex- 
ports are  lumber,  fish,  beef  and  butter.  It  is  the  eighth  town  in  the 
United  States  in  the  amount  of  its  shipping,  owning  nearly  40,000  tons. 
It  is  a wealthy,  handsome  and  growing  place.  In  1820  it  contained 
85520  inhabitants,  and  in  1830,  12,601.  Bath  on  the  west  bank 


ATLANTIC  STATES, 


19 


of  the  Kennebec,  16  miles  from  the  sea,  owns  considerable  shipping,  and 
is  a place  of  importance,  Brunswick,  Wiscasset,  Hallowed,  Augusta, 
York,  Casco,  Machias,  Bangor  and  Waterville  are  considerable  towns. 
Brunswick  is  on  the  Androscoggin ; Wiscasset,  on  the  Sheepscot;  and 
both  Hallowed  and  Augusta  on  the  Kennebec.  These  towns  are  favora- 
bly situated  for  foreign  trade.  The  state  abounds  in  sea  ports.  A 
number  of  fine  islands  along  the  coast  give  the  inhabitants  the  advantage 
of  an  interior  and  protected  navigation. 

Popvlation.  At  the  close  of  the  late  war,  the  advance  of  this  state 
was  at  a pause.  Many  of  the  inhabitants,  in  discouragement,  either  emi- 
grated, or  were  preparing  to  emigrate.  But,  possessing  the  essential 
elements  of  population,  fertile,  fresh  and  cheap  lands,  and  beside,  having 
peculiar  advantages  for  maritime  trade,  and  easy  and  numerous  commu- 
nications with  the  interior  by  large  and  fine  rivers  and  bays,  possessing 
an  excellent  soil  for  hay  and  pasturage,  a salubrious  climate,  and  an  ad- 
venturous and  hardy  population,  it  soon  resumed  its  advancing  progress. 
The  natural  aptitude  of  the  American  people  for  communications  with 
the  sea  impelled  settlers  to  this  region.  The  gain,  since  the  last  census, 
is  out  of  proportion  greater  than  any  other  New  England  state,  being 
101,133.  The  pursuits  of  a great  portion  of  the  people  are  maritime, 
and  their  home  on  the  blue  water.  The  vessels  of  its  mariners  are  in 
every  sea.  The  sailors  are  noted  for  the  reckless  daring,  with  which  they 
commit  themselves  to  small  sloops  of  30  or  40  tons,  to  encounter  the 
most  remote  and  stormy  seas.  They  have  a habit  of  affirming,  that  they 
have  learned  their  little  crafts  the  science  of  finding  their  own  way  amidst 
the  billows.  These  are  the  mariners,  who  in  lumber  vessels,  manned 
with  two  hands,  and  sometimes  with  a single  one,  dash  away  to  the  West 
Indies,  before  they  are  profoundly  acquainted  with  the  occult  science  of 
trigonometry,  and  logarithmic  tables,  and  of  whom  it  is  humorously 
said,  that  they  throw  shingles  overboard  at  intervals,  as  they  pass  out, 
by  which  to  find  their  way  back  again. 

Education . Bowdoin  college  in  Brunswick  is  a flourishing  institution, 
rich  in  funds,  with  respectable  endowments  and  buildings,  and  a library 
of  5000  volumes.  Theological  seminaries  are  established  at  Bangor, 
and  Waterville;  and  lycecms  at  Hallowell  and  .Gardiner.  There  are 
twenty  two  incorporated  academies;  and  town  schools  and  common 
schools  are  diffused,  with  the  New  England  spirit,  over  all  the  towns, 
villages  and  settlements  of  the  state. 

Religion.  In  this  new  state,  as  happens  throughout  our  country  in 
similar  circumstances,  the  Severn!  denominations  have  emulated  each  other 
in  efforts  to  impress  an  ascendant  influence  upon  the  young  community. 


20 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


There  are  nearly  400  established  religious  societies,  among  which  the 
congregationalists  are  at  present  most  numerous. 

Government.  Maine  was  united  with  Massachusetts,  under  the  name 
of  the  District  of  Maine,  until  1820,  when  the  union  was  amicably  dis  - 
solvedj  and  Maine  was  received  into  the  union. 

General  Aspect.  A panorama  of  this  extensive  state  would  show 
three  fourths  of  its  surface  covered  with  a dark  and  deep  forest  of  birch, 
beech,  and  evergreens.  A wide  belt  along  the  sea  shore,  and  the  navigable 
inlets  and  rivers,  and  waters,  upon  which  rafts  can  float,  would  be  seen 
denuded  of  their  forests.  The  cleared  squares  cut  out  of  the  forest  would 
be  seen  diminishing,  as  we  advance  towards  the  north,  until  we  reach  a 
wide  and  unbroken  forest.  Numberless  transparent  ponds  would  be  seen, 
dotting  almost  every  township.  Far  in  the  interior  we  should  see  the 
peculiar  class  of  interior  New  England  husbandmen,  like  the  people  of 
the  west  clearing  their  lands ; and  in  the  spring  making  maple  sugar  and 
relying  solely  on  agriculture  for  subsistence.  We  should  see  the  adven- 
turous mariners  spreading  their  sails  on  every  sea.  Innumerable  wood 
vessels  from  other  states  would  be  seen  approaching  her  shores,  to  pay 
their  tithe  for  the  privilege  of  carrying  her  fuel  over  the  stormy  sea,  that 
rolls  a tide  upon  some  portion  of  her  shores  of  40  feet  in  height.  Her 
lime,  the  most  beautiful  in  the  country,  would  be  seen  transported  to  the 
shores  of  Maryland  and  Virginia.  Rich  and  productive  lead  mines,  re- 
cently discovered,  would  be  seen  increasing  her  commercial  resources. 
If  overhung,  for  a considerable  portion  of  the  year,  with  a leaden  and  in- 
clement sky,  the  inhabitants  the  while,  would  be  seen  gaily  sliding  over 
their  snowy  surface  in  sleighs,  breasting  the  keen  air  with  a spirit,  that 
finds  elasticity  and  vigor  in  triumphing  over  the  rigor  of  nature, 


NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

Bounded  by  Maine  E. ; Lower  Canada  N. , Massachusetts  S.  and  S.  E. 
for  a distance  of  18  miles  by  the  Atlantic.  Area,  10,000  square  miles. 
Between  42°  42’  and  45°  14'  N.  L.;  and  4°  29'  and  6°  19'  E.  L.  from 
Washington.  Its  shape  is  an  open  fan  with  the  handle  to  the  north. 

Divisions.  Rockingham,  Portsmouth;  Merrimack,  Concord;  Strafford, 
Dover , Gilmantown ; Hillsborough,  Amherst;  Cheshire,  Keene , Charles- 
town, Walpole;  Grafton,  Hanover;  Haverhill , Plymouth  Coos,  Lancas- 
ter; Sullivan,  Newport.  Population  in  1820  244,161.  In  1830, 
269,  533. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


21 


Aspect . A narrow,  sandy  plain,  indented  with  small  sea  inlets,  skirts 
the  line  of  coast.  At  no  great  distance,  the  country  rises  into  hills  and 
mountains.  New  Hampshire  may  be  justly  designated  the  state  of  hills. 
The  highest  peaks  of  the  sublime  range  of  the  White  Mountains  are 
more  elevated,  than  any  other  mountains  in  the  United  States,  except 
those  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  Monadnock,  Moose  hillock,  Kearsarge, 
Sunnapee,  and  Ossipee  are  high,  interior,  detached  mountains.  The 
number  of  mountains  and  hills  gives  the  state  a harsh  and  rough  as- 
pect ; and  the  immense  masses  of  granite  rising  upon  all  sides  have  pro- 
cured for  it  the  appellation  of  the  granite  state . But  many  of  the  vallies 
are  beautifully  green,  sheltered  and  fertile.  The  rivers,  in  particular, 
have  rich,  alluvial  bottoms . Those  of  the  Connecticut  may  be  given,  as 
a sample.  The  soil,  though  often  encumbered  with  stones,  has  a good 
degree  of  fertility,  and  is  particularly  fine  for  pasturage.  The  country 
originally  was  heavily  timbered,  and  in  the  interior  are  still  considerable 
extents  of  forest  country.  There  are  extensive  plains  of  a warm,  light, 
sandy  and  peculiar  soil,  resembling,  when  cleared,  the  poorer  of  the  high 
western  prairies,  covered  in  their  natural  state  with  white  pine  and  called 
pine  plains.  The  climate  is  healthy.  The  lakes  and  rivers  are  ordina- 
rily frozen  four  months  in  the  year.  Winter  commences  in  November, 
and  terminates  in  April.  It  is  chiefly  an  agricultural  state.  Of  late 
years,  however,  the  people  have  begun  to  appropriate  their  frequent  and 
permanent  water  power  to  manufacturing  purposes.  Beside  domestic 
manufactures  to  a great  extent,  this  state  has  large  manufactures  of  iron, 
woollen  and  cottons  There  are  40  establishments  of  cotton  and  woollen, 
10  of  paper,  and  a number  of  iron  in  Franconia,  and  other  places.  Glass 
is  also  manufactured.  Great  manufacturing  establishments  have  arisen 
at  Dover,  Exeter,  Peterborough,  Franconia,  and  Durham.  New  Ipswich, 
Keene,  Milford,  and  Walpole  are  also  towns  which  possess  manufacturing 
establishments  to  a considerable  extent. 

The  manufactures  of  this  state,  in  1810,  exceeded  $5,000,000.  They 
must  have  more  than  doubled  in  value  since. 

Lakes.  Winnipissiogee  is  a romantic  and  beautiful  sheet  of  water  in 
the  centre  of  the  state,  23  miles  in  length.  It  is  sprinkled  with  numerous 
islands,  and  abounds  in  the  finest  kinds  of  fresh  water  fish.  Umbagog 
lake  lies  partly  in  this  state,  and  partly  in  Maine.  Squam,  Ossipee, 
Sunnapee,  and  Newfound  lakes,  are  considerable  collections  of  water. 

Rivers.  The  Connecticut  separates  the  western  shore  of  the  state 
from  Vermont.  Merrimac,  Piscafaqua,  Androscoggin  and  Saco,  all  con- 
siderable rivers,  rise  in  this  state.  Piscataqua  has  almosl  its  whole  course 
in  the  state.  The  smaller  rivers  are  Upper  and  Lower  Ammonoosuc, 


22 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


Sugar,  Ashuelot,  Margallaway,  and  Nashua.  The  smaller  mill  streams 
are  exceedingly  numerous  and  beautiful. 

Towns.  Portsmouth,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  Piscataqua,  three  miles 
from  its  junction  with  the  sea.  has  one  of  the  safest  and  most  commodious 
harbors  in  the  United  States.  It  is  never  frozen,  is  strongly  defended  by 
two  forts,  and  might  easily  be  rendered  impregnable.  A light  house  on 
Great  Island  indicates  the  entrance  to  it,  and  the  largest  ships  can  come 
to  the  wharves.  It  is  distant  56  miles  north-east  from  Boston.  It  is  the 
only  sea  port  in  the  state.  Its  position  is  pleasant  and  salubrious,  and 
the  greater  part  of  the  town,  having  been  rebuilt  from  a fire  some  years 
since,  is  very  handsomely  built.  It  contains  8 houses  for  public  worship, 
among  which  the  Episcopal  church  is  distinguished  for  its  size  and  beauty. 
The  other  public  buildings  are  a court  house,  jail,  alms  house,  academy, 
athenffium,  two  market  houses,  town  hall,  custom  house,  an  insurance 
office,  and  five  banks.  A very  handsome  bridge  across  the  Piscataqua 
connects  it  with  Kittery  in  Maine.  On  Navy  Island,  in  the  river,  is  the 
United  States  Ship  Yard,  with  all  the  requisite  appurtenances  for  building 
ships  of  war.  Two  74  gun  ships  have  already  been  built  here.  The 
town  possesses  over  25,000  tons  of  shipping.  Many  valuable  prizes  were 
brought  into  this  harbor  during  the  late  war.  It  has  a fine  market,  more 
particularly  for  fish,  and  it  differs  from  any  other  New  England  town  in 
the  circumstance,  that  many  females  bring  articles  to  market,  descending 
the  Piscataqua  in  skiffs.  In  1820  the  population  was  7,327.  In  1830, 
8,036. 

Exeter  is  a handsome  village,  15  miles  south-west  of  Portsmouth. 
Small  sea  vessels  ascend  to  it,  it  being  at  the  head  of  tide  water  on  Exeter 
River.  It  contains  a number  of  public  buildings,  and  three  churches,  and 
is  the  seat  of  very  considerable  manufactures.  Phillips’  Exeter  Academy 
in  this  place  is  one  of  the  most  ancient,  opulent  and  useful  institutions 
in  the  United  States,  having  many  of  the  advantages  and  endowments  of 
a college. 

Concord,  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  Merrimac,  central  to  the  state, 
and  63  miles  north  north-west  from  Boston,  is  the  political  metropolis, 
and  the  seat  of  government.  The  compact  part  of  the  village  contains 
one  neat  street  two  miles  in  length,  in  which  are  a magnificent  state- 
house,  and  a state  prison,  both  of  stone.  There  are  a number  of  other 
public  buildings.  Two  bridges  connect  the  chief  village  with  the  village 
on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  river.  It  issues  three  gazettes,  and  is  a place 
of  large  and  ^rowing  business,  and  contains  about  3,000  inhabitants.  It. 
has  a boatable  communication  with  Boston  by  the  river,  and  by  Middlesex 
Canal  connecting  with  it. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


23 


Hanover,  Haverhill,  Charlestown,  and  Walpole  are  large  and  neat  vil- 
lages on  the  Connecticut ; as  are  Keene  and  Amherst  in  the  interior. 
Dover  is  a large  manufacturing  village  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Piscataqua. 
The  river  Cocheco  flows  through  it,  having  great  falls  affording  admirable 
water  privileges.  It  is  the  seat  of  extensive  cotton  factories,  and  of  some 
iron  works.  It  has  grown  to  rapid  consequence  since  it  has  become  the 
seat  of  such  extensive  manufactories.  It  has  a number  of  public  build- 
ings, and  is  a place  of  increasing  importance. 

Literary  Institutions.  Dartmouth  College  ranks  as  the  third  literary 
institution  in  New  England.  Its  endowments,  library  and  philosophical 
apparatus  are  respectable,  and  it  has  a medical  school  of  deserved  repu- 
tation attached  to  it.  Phillips’  Exeter  Academy,  of  which  we  have  spoken, 
has  funds  to  the  amount  of  $80,000.  There  are  a great  number  of  less 
considerably  endowed  academies,  and  the  primary  and  other  schools  are 
on  the  general  footing  of  the  New  England  system. 

Character  of  the  Population.  The  inhabitants  are  a healthy,  tall, 
robust, industrious,  well  informed  and  enterprising  people,  frugal,  religious, 
and  jealous  of  their  rights.  The  prevailing  religious  denominations  are 
Congregationaiists  and  Baptists. 

Commerce.  Cheese,  butter,  beef  and  pork}  lumber,  linen,  beside  man- 
ufactures, are  the  chief  articles  of  export,  Much  of  the  agricultural 
products  go  by  the  Middlesex  Canal  to  Boston. 

Natural  Curiosities.  The  White  Mountains  afford  scenery  inexpressi- 
bly grand,  being  of  Alpine  elevation,  and  deriving  their  name  from  being 
generally  white  with  snow.  The  lovers  of  nature  come  to  these  wild 
retreats  from  great  distances,  to  contemplate  the  varied  aspects  of  these 
sublime  peaks,  to  hear  the  roar  of  the  mountain  winds,  and  the  tumble  of 
their  ice-formed  torrents.  The  Notch , or  Gap,  is  a striking  object  of 
curiosity.  The  river  Saco  sweeps  by  it,  forming  splendid  cascades.  An 
affecting  moral  interest  has  been  associated  with  this  wild  spot.  In  1825 
a slide,  or  earth  avalanche,  in  a night  of  storms,  buried  a whole  family 
residing  here*  that  had  been  alarmed  by  the  crashing  of  its  first  disrup- 
tion, and  who,  in  attempting  to  fly  from  its  path,  were  arrested,  and  buried 
under  the  superincumbent  mass. 

The  panorama  of  New  Hampshire  would  exhibit  many  mountain  peaks, 
innumerable  granite-covered  hills,  much  grand  scenery,  and  not  a little, 
especially  on  the  shores  of  the  Connecticut,  of  surpassing  fertility,  amen- 
ity and  beauty.  The  living  part  of  the  picture  would  show  as  hardy  a 
race  of  agriculturists  as  the  world  can  offer,  breasting  with  the  same  spirit 
of  defiance  the  storms  and  sleets  of  winter,  and  the  fervors  of  the  dog- 
day  sun.  The  winter  Sabbath  would  present  the  sleighs  gliding  over  the 
snow,  bearing  the  families  to  the  village  church.  During  the  long  winter 


24 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


evenings,  when  the  wind  howls,  and  the  snow  storm  pours  along,  we  should 
see  these  families  around  the  blazing  hearth,  the  mother  and  daughters 
occupied  in  the  quiet  domestic  occupations,  and  the  favorite  reader  of  the 
family,  in  a tone  between  recitation  and  harangue,  reading  aloud  from  the 
hardly  earned  book  or  gazette. 


Bounded  north  by  Lower  Canada,  east  by  New  Hampshire,  south  by 
Massachusetts,  west  by  New  York.  Between  42°  42'  and  45°  N.  latitude 
and  3°  39'  and  5°  31'  E.  longitude.  It  contains  10,200  square  miles. 
It  resembles  a fan,  with  its  handle  towards  the  south. 

Civil  Divisions.  Bennington,  Bennington;  Windham,  Brattleboro1 ; 
Rutland,  Rutland;  Windsor,  Windsor;  Addison,  Middlebury;  Chitten- 
den, Burlington;  Franklin,  St.  Albans;  Orange,  Newbury;  Caledonia, 
Danville;  Essex,  Guildhall;  Orleans,  Derby;  Washington,  Monteplier; 
Grand  Isle,  Alburgh.  Population,  in  1820, 235,764.  In  1830, 280,679. 

Physical  Aspect • Charmingly  picturesque,  no  country  showing  greater 
variety  of  hill,  dale,  declivity,  green,  wooded  mountain  peaks,  roaring 
torrents,  subsiding  into  cool,  mountain,  trout  streams,  than  the  Green 
Mountains,  which  run  in  a broad  mountain  belt  through  the  whole  state 
from  north  to  south.  The  highest  peaks  of  this  chain  are  Killington 
Peak*  Camel’s  Rump,  and  Mansfield  Mountain.  Ascutney  is  a detached 
mountain,  showing  to  great  advantage  from  Windsor.  These  peaks  have 
an  elevation  of  from  3 to  4,000  feet.  This  chain,  stretching  north  and 
south  in  a line  interminable  to  the  eye,  makes  a majestic  appearance  seen 
in  the  distance,  as  we  approach  the  mountains  either  from  the  east  or  the 
west  side.  The  western  declivities  are  the  most  precipitous,  and  are 
clothed  with  a dark  forest  of  evergreens.  From  the  perennial  verdure  of 
the  terebinthine  forests,  the  range  and  the  state  have  obtained  their  name. 

Forests — Are  heavily  timbered  with  pine,  hemlock,  larch,  birch,  beach, 
maple,  ash,  elm,  and  white  walnut,  here  known  by  the  name  of  butternut. 

Productions.  Maize,  barley,  rye,  oats,  potatoes,  pulse,  grass  and 
fruits  prosper  here ; and  wheat  on  the  west  side  of  the  mountains,  the 
soil  being  fine,  with  small  extents  excepted,  even  on  the  mountain  sides 
and  summits.  Dark,  rich  and  loamy,  and  admirably  calculated  to  sustain 
drought,  it  affords  the  finest  pasturage  of  any  state  in  the  Union.  The 
world  cannot  offer  finer  beef  than  is  fed  on  the  rich,  white  clover  pastures 
of  Vermont,  and  the  butter  and  cheese  are  universally  known  for  their 
excellence. 


VERMONT. 


■ 


ATLANTIC  STATES, 


25 


Climate.  The  winter  is  shorter  than  in  New  Hampshire,  though  it  is 
more  exposed  to  sudden  alternations  and  extremes  of  heat  and  cold. 
The  snow  on  the  north  sides  of  the  mountains  falls  deep  and  lies  long. 
The  winter  commences  with  December,  and  ends  with  March. 

Character  of  the  Population.  The  Green  mountaineers,  the  Scotch 
of  the  United  States,  are  remarkable  for  their  strength  and  robustness  of 
body,  and  acuteness  of  mind.  They  are  a determined,  adventurous,  wan- 
dering people,  little  afflicted  with  the  malady  of  bashfulness,  and  are 
found  in  all  the  other  states  as  immigrants.  The  uneducated  are  dis- 
tinguished by  a peculiar  dialect,  and  mode  of  pronouncing  particular 
words.  Their  first  remove  is  ordinarily  to  the  north  parts  of  New  York, 
Whence  they  pass,  after  a short  stay,  to  the  states  south  and  west. 

Rivers.  The  Connecticut  forms  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  state. 
It  has  been  recently  ascended  to  the  shores  of  this  state  by  steam  boats. 
Onion  River  passes  through  Montpelier,  the  capital,  into  Lake  Champlain, 
at  Burlington.  Otter  Creek  is  a considerable  branch  of  Onion  River. 
Lamoile  and  Missique  are  considerable  streams  north  of  Onion  River. 
Many  smaller  rivers  rise  in  the  Green  Mountains,  and  assuming  in  their 
course  a charmingly  romantic  character,  discharge  east  into  the  Connec- 
ticut, or  west  into  Lake  Champlain.  The  whole  state  abounds  in  streams 
of  a size  to  drive  mills  and  manufactories. 

Lakes.  Lake  Champlain,  between  the  west  shore  of  this  state  and 
New  York,  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water  128  miles  long,  and  from  1 to  20 
wide.  It  discharges,  at  its  northern  extremity,  by  the  river  Sorel  into 
the  St.  Lawrence.  It  contains  upwards  of  60  islands,  of  which  Motte, 
and  North  and  South  Hero  are  of  considerable  si£e.  Beside  the  rivers 
which  flow  into  it  from  the  Green  Mountains,  it  receives  the  Chazy, 
Saranac,  Sable,  Bouquet,  and  Wood  rivers  from  New  York,  on  the  western 
shore.  Burlington,  Plattsburg,  St  Albans,  and  Whitehall  are  the  most 
considerable  towns  on  its  shores.  The  Champlain  Canal  connects  it  with 
Hudson  River,  and  the  New  York  and  Erie  Canal.  It  is  navigated  by  a 
number  of  steam  boats  and  lake  vessels,  lying  extremely  convenient  to 
facilitate  the  commerce  of  the  state  both  with  New  York  and  Montreal. 

Memphremagog  is  a considerable  lake  25  miles  long,  and  3 broad, 
lying  partly  in  Vermont  and  partly  in  Canada,  receiving  a number  of 
streams  from  this  state,  and  communicating  by  the  St.  Francis  with  the 
St.  Lawrence. 

Towns . This  state  is  entirely  interior.  Yet  the  system  of  infernal 
improvements,  the  Champlain  Canal,  and  the  lake  vessels  and  steam  boats 
have  in  some  sense  brought  it  in  contiguity  with  the  sea.  Montpelier, 
on  Onion  River,  in  a position  nearly  central  to  the  state,  is  the  political 
metropolis.  It  is  120  miles  S.  E.  from  Montreal,  160  N.  W.  from  Boston, 
Vol.  II.  4 


20 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


and  150  N.  E.  from  Albany.  It  contains,  beside  the  state  house,  a num- 
ber of  public  buildings,  and  respectable  manufacturing  establishments. 
The  population  is  about  3,000. 

Bennington,  beautifully  situated  in  the  south  west  angle  of  the  state, 
is  a neat  village,  containing  about  the  same  number  of  inhabitants  with 
the  preceding,  and  is  rendered  memorable  as  the  site  of  the  glorious 
victory  of  Gen.  Stark  over  a detachment  of  British  and  Hessians  from 
the  army  of  Gen.  Burgoyne,  1777.  Windsor  is  a large  and  handsomely 
built  village  on  Connecticut  River,  containing  a number  of  respectable 
public  buildings,  and  private  edifices,  and  about  the  same  number  of  in- 
habitants with  the  two  preceding  towns.  Middlebury,  on  Onion  River, 
is  a thriving  town,  the  seat  of  various  important  manufactures,  especially 
of  marble.  Here  is  Middlebury  College,  the  most  considerable  seminary 
of  learning  in  the  state.  Burlington  is  a handsome  town  on  the  shore  of 
Lake  Champlain,  at  the  mouth  of  Onion  River,  and  is  a port  of  entry. 
It  is  100  miles  S.  of  Montreal,  and  198  N.  W.  of  Boston.  It  contains  a 
number  of  public  buildings,  of  which  the  most  conspicuous  is  the  college 
edifice  of  the  University  of  Vermont,  a building  160  feet  by  75,  and  4 
stories  high.  The  falls  of  Onion  River  at  this  place  furnish  power  for  a 
number  of  flourishing  manufactories.  Nothing  can  exceed  the  romantic 
beauty  of  the  position  of  the  college,  elevated  245  feet  above  the  surface 
of  the  lake.  Two  beautiful  churches  ornament  the  place.  A number 
of  lake  vessels  are  owned  here,  and  steam  boats  are  frequently  arriving 
and  departing.  This  is  one  of  the  wealthiest  and  most  flourishing  towns 
in  the  state.  Population  not  far  from  3,000. 

St.  Albans,  in  the  north-west  angle  of  the  state,  is  also  a considerable 
village  on  Lake  Champlain,  containing  about  2,000  inhabitants.  There 
are  many  other  neat  villages,  dispersed  over  this  state;  and  great  numbers 
of  handsome  private  dwellings  in  all  directions  indicate  the  opulence  and 
taste  of  the  possessors. 

Religious  Character . Similar  to  that  of  Maine  and  New  Hampshire. 
The  Congregationalists  are  the  prevalent  denominations. 

Literature.  There  are  two  colleges,  one  at  Middlebury,  the  other  at 
Burlington.  There  are  also  20  incorporated  academies.  Free  schools 
and  social  libraries  are  dispersed  over  the  state.  The  people  possess  the 
traits  of  independence  and  inquisitiveness,  that  generally  characterize 
mountaineers.  A child  arrived  at  the  age  for  those  acquirements,  who 
could  not  read  and  write,  would  be  regarded,  as  we  look  upon  the  misfor- 
tune of  an  insane  person  or  an  idiot. 

Exports — Are  beef,  butter,  cheese  and  pork  of  the  first  quality,  pot  and 
pearl  ashes,  lumber  and  marble.  Part  of  the  lumber  goes  by  canal  to 
Albany,  and  part  down  the  lake  to  Montreal.  Much  of  the  trade  that 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


27 


used  to  go  to  Boston  and  Hartford  is  now  drawn  by  the  Champlain  Canal 
to  New  York.  This  canal  has  been  of  incalculable  advantage  to  the 
state. 

Among  the  natural  curiosities  of  this  state  are  many  of  those  caves, 
which  are  common  in  all  mountainous  regions  of  lime  stone  formation. 
The  state  abounds  in  beautiful  cascades  of  streams  rushing  down  the 
declivities  of  the  mountains.  A panorama  of  Vermont  would  show,  in 
summer,  the  most  picturesque  state  in  the  Union,  presenting  countless 
mountain,  glen,  and  valley  prospects  of  indescribable  beauty.  Nine- 
tenths  of  the  active  and  robust  mountaineers  would  be  seen  engaged  in 
the  healthful  and  satisfying  pursuits  of  husbandry.  Many  delightful 
dwellings  would  be  seen  perched  on  the  hills,  or  sheltered  in  the  vallies. 
In  point  of  the  entireness  of  its  democratic  character,  it  would  compare 
with  Ohio,  showing  as  much  of  the  sensitive  and  proud  claims  of  a pure 
democracy,  as  any  other  state  in  the  Union. 

Population  no  where  advances  with  greater  rapidity.  But  the  state, 
not  being  large,  and  much  of  its  surface  occupied  by  mountains,  the 
arable  lands  have  long  since  been  chiefly  taken  up.  Hence  the  enter- 
prising descendants  of  the  mountaineers  feel  an  early  propensity  for 
range,  and  wander  away  to  furnish  tithes  of  immigration  to  western  New 
York,  and  all  the  states  of  the  west. 


MASSACHUSETTS, 

Is  bounded  N.  by  Vermont  and  New  Hampshire,  E.  by  the  Atlantic, 
Rhode  Island  and  Connecticut,  W.  by  New  York;  between  41°  23'  and 
43°  52'  N.  L.  and  3°  33'  and  7°  10'  E.  L.’from  Washington.  It  is  19Q 
miles  long,  by  90  bread,  and  contains  7,500  square  miles. 

Civil  Divisions.  Barnstable,  Barnstable;  Berkshire,  Lenox;  Bristol, 
Taunton;  Dukes,  Edgartown ; Essex,  Salem , Newburyport,  Ipswich ; 
Franklin,  Greenfield;  Hampden,  Springfield;  Hampshire,  Northampton ; 
Middlesex,  Cambridge , Concord;  Nantucket,  Nantucket;  Norfolk,  Ded- 
ham; Plymouth,  Plymouth;  Suffolk,  Boston ; Worcester,  Worcester. 
Population  in  1820,  523,287.  In  1830, 610,014 

Aspect.  A surface  pleasantly  undulating  with  hills  and  vallies.  To- 
wards its  western  front  it  is  crossed  in  its  whole  width,  by  the  chain  of  the 
Green  Mountains.  The  south-eastern  parts  of  the  state,  from  Cape  Cod 
along  the  southern  front  to  Connecticut,  are  sandy.  A belt  from  the  sea 
shoref  extending  20  miles  into  the  interior,  is  naturally  fertile  only  at 
intervals;  but  has  been  rendered  so  by  industry  and  a careful  agriculture. 


28 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


But  in  the  interior  of  the  state,  the  soil,  for  the  most  part,  is  strong,  and 
adapted  either  to  grazing  or  tillage.  The  agriculture  is  generally  more 
scientific  than  in  any  other  state.  The  average  produce  is  30  bushels  of 
maize,  30  of  barley,  15  of  rye,  and  200  of  potatoes  to  an  acre.  Oxen 
are  chiefly  used  for  the  plough  and  draught.  The  breeds  of  domestic 
animals  have  been  much  improved  by  agricultural  societies.  This  state  is 
the  most  densely  peopled,  and  the  most  opulent,  in  proportion  to  its  num- 
bers, and  its  inhabitants  most  amply  supplied  with  the  means  of  a common 
and  finished  education  of  any  state  in  the  Union.  Common  schools  are 
established  by  law  over  the  whole  state.  Every  town  containing  150 
families  is  compelled  by  law  to  support  a grammar  school,  and  it  is  deemed 
a moral  offence  in  a parent  not  to  send  his  children  to  school.  In  no  other 
known  community  is  the  education  of  the  whole  people  considered  so 
entirely  a matter  within  the  purview  of  the  law,  as  in  this.  Great  atten- 
tion is  paid  to  the  character  and  capability  of  the  instructors,  among 
whom  a high  and  noble  spirit  of  emulation  exists,  descending  in  double 
measures  to  the  pupils.  The  number  of  academies,  high  schools,  semi- 
naries, and  lyceums  established  by  incorporation,  is  too  great  to  be  par- 
ticularized. In  no  other  existing  community  is  education  more  univer- 
sally diffused. 

Harvard  university  is  the  oldest  and  most  amply  endowed  literary  in- 
stitution in  the  United  States.  It  is  situated  in  Cambridge,  three  miles 
from  the  centre  of  Boston,  on  an  extensive  and  beautiful  plain.  The 
enclosure  of  the  square  is  with  great  taste  surrounded  with  young  trees. 
Among  the  spacious  buildings  enclosed  in  the  square,  one  is  singular  for 
its  extent  and  noble  simplicity  of  structure  being  built  of  massive  gran- 
ite. The  buildings,  library  and  philosophical  apparatus  are  of  the  most 
respectable  class,  the  library  containing  about  30,000  volumes.  A bo- 
tanical garden  is  attached  to  the  establishment.  Twenty  professors  are 
connected  with  the  institution.  A law,  medical  and  theological  school 
are  appended  to  its  academical  advantages.  Taken  together,  this  univer- 
sity must  be  classed  at  the  head  of  the  literary  institutions  of  the  new 
world.  The  average  of  the  students,  in  all  the  departments,  is  between 
three  and  four  hundred.  It  is  a remarkable  trait  in  the  character  of  this 
institution,  that  it  was  founded  in  20  years  from  the  first  settlement  of 
New  England.  William’s  College,  and  Amherst  College  in  the  interior  of 
the  state  are  both  important  institutions,  called  for  by  the  rapid  improve- 
ment of  the  western  parts  of  the  state.  The  Andover  Theological  semi- 
nary is  richly  endowed,  and,  in  point  of  buildings  and  professorships, 
takes  rank  of  all  others  in  the  country.  Phillips’  academy  is  the  most 
distinguished  among  the  academies.  • 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


29 


Religion.  The  prevalent  denomination  is  that  of  congregationalists 
divided  into  trinitarians  and  Unitarians.  Methodists,  baptists  and  episco-  v 
palians  are  also  numerous.  There  are  about  700  fixed  congregations  in  xl 
the  state. 

Mountains.  The  Green  Mountains  range  through  the  central  parts  of 
the  state  from  north  to  south.  These  mountains,  in  their  whole  extent 
abound  in  noble  elevations,  dark  green  forests,  pleasant  and  sheltered 
vallies,  and  an  infinite  variety  of  impressive  scenery.  The  mountains 
show  in  great  beauty  from  Northampton.  Wachuset  in  Princeton,  a de- 
tached mountain,  is  a striking  feature  in  the  scenery  of  the  adjacent 
country.  The  principal  range  of  the  Green  Mountains  bears  the  name 
of  Hoosac.  The  highest  peaks  are  Saddle,  Takonnac,  Mount  Tom, 
Mount  Holyoke,  and  Toby.  J ^ 

Rivers . Massachusetts  has  no  large  rivers,  wholly  within  her  bounds,  kjj 
Whe  Merrimac  passes  out  of  New  Hampshire  into  the  northern  division  of  ^ 
the  state,  emptying  into  the  sea  at  Newburyport.  The  Connecticut,  in  jj 
traversing  it  from  north  to  south,  nearly  bisects  the  state.  The  Housato- 
nic,  Charles  and  Ipswich,  Neponset  and  Taunton,  though  they  have 
short  courses,  are  pleasant  streams.  Indeed  no  country  of  the  same  ex- 
tent can  show  a greater  number  of  clear,  quick,  sandstone  streams,  than 
this  state. 

Bays.  The  deep  bay  between  Cape  Ann,  and  Cape  Cod,  which  has 
given  name  to  the  state,  has  caused  it  to  have  been  formerly  known  in  the 
other  states  by  the  name  of  the  Bay  State.  Cape  Ann  bounds  it  on  the 
north,  and  Cape  Cod,  a very  long,  sandy,  narrow  elbow  running  a great 
distance  into  the  sea,  on  the  south.  The  adventurous  mariners  of  this 
long  sand  bar  may  with  as  much  propriety,  as  the  people  of  any  other  dis- 
trict, be  said  to  have  their  home  upon  the  sea.  T*^1 

Chief  Towns • Boston,  the  metropolis  of  the  state  and  of  New  England, 
is  an  ancient,  opulent,  and  beautiful  city,  built  at  the  head  of  Massachu-  ^ 
setts’  Bay,  on  a peninsula  connected  with  the  main  land  by  a narrow  neck  •*>  5^ 
joining  it  to  Roxbury.  Being  chiefly  built  on  a hill  swelling  from  the 
surrounding  water,  it  presents  an  imposing  aspect  to  the  beholder,  from 
whatever  quarter  it  is  approached.  It  has  a capacious,  safe  and  commo- 
dious harbor,  in  which  500  vessels  may  ride  at  anchor,  while  the  entrance 
is  so  narrow,  as  scarcely  to  admit  two  ships  abreast.  It  is  strongly 
defended  by  Fort  Independence  and  Warren;  and  is  dotted  with  a great 
number  of  islands;  affording  in  summer  beautiful  verdure,  pasturage  and 
retreats  for  parties  of  pleasure.  In  regard  to  the  extent  of  its  shipping 
and  the  amount  of  its  tonnage,  it  is  the  second  city  in  the  United  States. 

It  contains  155  streets,  and  80  wharves  and  quays.  The  nnmber  of 

L,4U 


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S 


Y 


30 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


* 


1 


I n 


public  buildings  amounts  to  40;  and  the  churches,  many  of  them 
noble  edifices  of  stone,  to  about  the  same  number.  No  aspect  of  the 
city  is  more  striking,  than  the  numerous  and  tall  spires  of  the  churches. 
Among  the  conspicuous  buildings  is  the  state  house,  built  on  the  most 
elevated  ground  in  the  city,  with  a front  of  173  feet,  and  a depth  of  61. 
The  building  is  surmounted  with  a circular  dome  and  lantern  160  feet 
from  the  foundation.  Our  country  offers  no  city  scenery  to  equal  that 
from  this  elevation.  Foreigners  have  compared  it  to  the  view  of  the  Bay 
of  Naples;  and  the  most  splendid  city  scenery  in  Europe.  The  new  mar- 
ket 536  feet  in  length,  is  the  most  noble  building  of  the  kind  in  the 
United  States.  The  Massachusetts  General  Hospital  is  a beautiful  build- 
ing. Both  of  these  are  of  Chelmsford  granite;  as  is  the  Tremont  House, 
containing  180  apartments,  and  being  the  most  sumptuous  hotel  in  the 
United  States.  Most  of  the  new  churches,  and  noble  streets,  and  more 
opulent  mansions  of  this  city  are  of  the  same  material.  The  long,  high, 
and  massive  ranges  of  buildings  of  this  enduring  and  beautiful  stone  give 
the  handsomer  parts  of  the  city  a most  imposing  appearance.  Tremont 
Theatre,  the  new  Court  House,  and  Trinity  church  are  among  the  noble 
granite  erections.  A number  of  the  private  mansions  are  sumptuous;  and 
the  internal  finishing  and  furnishing  in  a style  of  great  richness  and 
splendor. 

We  have  not  space  to  enlarge  even  upon  that  feature  of  the  city,  which 
constitutes  its  richest  and  proudest  ornament,  its  literary  and  charitable 
institutions.  Its  schools,  in  which  7,500  children  are  instructed,  perhaps, 
deserve  to  take  rank  of  all  others.  The  Boston  Athenaeum  is  a noble 
monument  of  the  literary  munificence  of  this  place.  Its  select  library 
contains  about  25,000  volumes.  Beside  this,  there  are  other  libraries,  the 
largest  of  which  is  the  Boston  library,  containing  about  10,000  volumes. 
The  lyceum  of  this  city  was  among  the  first  establishments  of  the  kind  in 
the  country.  The  periodicals  amount  to  about  40;  among  which  some 
have  an  established  and  well  earned  reputation.  The  numerous,  long, 
and  magnificent  bridges,  connecting  the  city  with  the  mainland,  one  of 
which  is  between  three  and  four  thousand  feet  in  length,  are  appendages 
that  give  this  town  an  appearance  unlike  any  other  in  the  union.  Noth- 
ing can  be  more  beautiful  in  a dark  night,  than  these  numerous,  long, 
straight  parallel  lines  of  illumination  furnished  by  the  lamps  over  the 
water.  More  capital  is  concentered  in  this  opulent  city,  than  in  any  other 
American  town  of  its  size.  Its  money  transactions  are  carried  on  by  18 
banks.  Chantrey’s  noble  statue  of  Washington  is  placed  in  an  apartment 
prepared  for  this  purpose,  in  the  state  house.  The  common,  fronted  on 

one  side  by  a double  row  of  noble  trees,  called  the  mail,  contains  44 

5 

Yv\  V*  •'i *1  t c * . > j rt  <-  | \\  > Y , . 


■*  V til-  \ •.  ,v\  j % 


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ATLANTIC  STATES. 


31 


acres,  and  presents  on  one  side  splendid  water  views  ; and  on  the  other 
sumptuous  and  magnificent  dwellings,  among  which  Colionade  Row  makes 
a conspicuous  figure. 

Beautiful  villages  surround  this  city  in  all  directions;  and  are  seen  in 
the  distance  from  the  summit  of  the  state  house,  like  a continued  city. 
More  than  20  spires,  beside  those  of  the  city,  can  be  counted.  Though 
the  size  of  the  city  proper  does  not  compare  with  New  York  or  Philadel- 
phia, the  environs  of  no  other  American  town  will  vie  with  it,  in  point  of 
numerous  and  compact  villages,  high  cultivation,  display  of  taste  and 
opulence,  and  especially  in  the  show  of  the  numerous  and  magnificent 
country  villas,  belonging  to  the  citizens.  The  eye  wanders  over  the  bay 
dotted  with  green  islands*  and  whitened  with  sails,  takes  in  the  city  array 
of  public  buildings  and  spires,  and  the  sumptuous  massive  granite  estab- 
lishments, and  the  white  villages  beyond  surmounted  with  their  spires ; 
and  is  lost  in  the  distant  show  of  towns,  cultivation  and  embellishment. 

Among  the  most  interesting  points  of  view  beyond  the  city  is  Charles- 
town, itself  showing  as  a city;  its  consecrated  heights,  associated  with  all, 
that  is  affecting  in  revolutionary  remembrances,  the  rising  granite  column 
that  crowns  Bunker  hill,  the  noble  navy  yard,  the  dark  moral  shading  cast 
upon  the  picture  by  the  penitentiary;  and  beyond,  the  unostentatious 
canal,  with  its  slow  moving  boats  opening  to  the  mind  more  than  meets 
the  eye.  As  a contrast  to  the  business,  life  and  bustle  in  this  direction, 
the  spacious  halls  of  the  university  show  among  their  trees,  still  further  in 
the  distance,  in  that  repose  and  stillness,  that  belong  to  literary  leisure, 
and  the  quiet  efforts  of  thought. 

The  mill  dam  bridge  and  basins  constitute  a magnificent  Work,  and 
contribute,  with  the  genius  of  the  people,  to  render  Boston  a manufactur- 
ing place.  It  is  distinguished  among  others  for  the  beauty  and  excel- 
lence of  its  manufactures  in  glass.  Wool  and  cotton  cards  and  paper 
hangings  are  important  items  in  her  manufactures;  and  as  a publishing 
place,  in  the  number  and  beauty  of  the  books,  printed  here,  this  city 
stands  deservedly  preeminent.  In  another  place  we  have  touched  upon 
the  results  of  her  charitable  and  humane  institutions.  For  the  beauty  of 
her  mansions,  for  her  monuments  of  taste  and  literature,  for  her  religious 
and  humane  institutions,  for  the  munificence  of  her  charities,  and  for  the 
ample  hospitality  of  her  enlightened  citizens,  the  metropolis  of  New  En- 
gland will  be  the  city  admired,  and  gratefully  remembered  by  the  stranger. 
It  is  distant  300  miles  S.  E.  from  Montreal,  and  300  N.  E.  from  Phila- 
delphia. 42°  22'  N.  L.  Population  in  1820,  43,  298.  In  1830,  61,392. 

Charlestown  is  connected  with  Boston  by  Charlestown  Bridge;  and 
seen  at  a little  distance,  to  the  eye  makes  a part  of  Boston;  as  it  does  in 
fact  to  all  other  than  municipal  purposes.  Among  its  public  buildings  is 


32 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


the  United  States  Navy  Yard,*  in  its  dry  dock  and  general  appurtenances 
a noble  national  monument-  the  State  prison  a structure  of  massive 
granite,  the  marine  hospital,  a hospital  for  the  insane,  some  handsome 
churches,  and  the  Bunker  Hill  monument,  on  which  six  courses  of  stone, 
amounting  to  14,000  tons,  are  laid.  Into  the  harbor  enters  the  Middlesex 
Canal,  connecting  it  with  the  interior  of  New  Hampshire  by  the  Merrimac. 
Bunker,  Breed,  and  Cobble  Hills,  identified  with  the  most  affecting  re- 
collections of  the  incipient,  revolutionary  struggle,  are  in  this  town.  It  is 
a port  of  entry  in  connection  with  Boston,  and  has  considerable  shipping 
and  trade.  Population  in  1820,  6,591.  In  1830,  8,783,  Roxbury, 
Dorchester,  Milton,  Cambridge,  Watertown,  Medford,  Chelsea  and  Lynn 
are  villages,  some  of  them  large  enough  to  be  classed  as  towns,  in  the 
younger  and  less  settled  states,  all  in  the  immediate  vicinity  of  Boston. 

Salem,  13  miles  N.  E.  from  Boston,  is  built  on  a projection  of  land 
between  two  arms  of  the  sea,  called  North  and  South  Rivers.  The  site 
is  a level  and  handsome  plain.  Providence  has  recently  outstripped  it  in 
population.  But  in  point  of  commercial  wealth  and  importance  it  con- 
tinues to  be  the  second  town,  as  it  is,  next  to  Plymouth,  the  oldest  town 
in  New  England.  A bridge  1,500  feet  long  connects  it  with  the  populous 
town  of  Beverly,  and  a shorter  one  with  South  Salem.  It  has  16  public 
buildings,  among  which  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  museums  in  the 
United  States,  amply  stored  with  foreign  curiosities;  and  an  athenaeum 
containing  5,000  volumes.  It  has  12  or  13  churches,  some  of  them  are 
spacious  buildings,  and  most  of  them  are  ornamented  with  spires.  From 
Gallows  Hill  in  this  town,  an  affecting  monument  of  the  horrible  delu- 
sion of  witchcraft,  16  or  17  spires  rise  upon  the  eye.  This  prevalence  of 
spires  imparts  a beauty  and  a host  of  associations  to  a northern  town,  that 
we  regret  to  say,  grow  rarer  objects  in  the  towns  farther  south.  The  town 
is  handsomely  built,  and  some  of  the  residences  indicate  taste  and  opu- 
lence. In  1821  this  town  owned  23,046  tons  or  shipping.  It  was  for  many 
years  the  centre  of  the  East  India  trade  of  New  England.  There  are 
living  here  160  persons,  who  as  masters  and  supercargoes  of  ships,  have 
doubled  the  Capes  of  Good  Hope  and  Horn.  These  persons  are  known  by 
the  cant  appellation  of  Old  Salts.  Most  of  the  adult  males  of  this  town 
have  encountered  the  gales  of  all  seas,  and  consider  the  deep  as  their  har- 
vest and  home.  A simple  and  noble  hospitality  characterize  this  inter- 
esting town;  and  there  are  merchants  here,  who,  in  enterprise  opulence 
and  the  noble  use  of  riches,  might  claim  kindred  with  the  princely 
Antonio  of  Rialto.  A beautiful  common  of  ten  acres,  surrounded  with 
trees,  constituting  a public  walk,  ornaments  the  town.  The  entrance  to 
its  harbor  is  indicated  by  a light  house,  and  defended  by  two  forts.  It 
contains  18  public  and  58  private  schools;  and  in  its  humane,  charitable 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


33 


and  literary  institutions,  sustains  an  honorable  competition  with  the  capi- 
tal. A Mill  Dam  Company , on  the  plan  of  that  of  Boston  and  Rox- 
bury,  has  been  incorporated  in  this  town,  which  will  contain,  it  is  contem- 
plated, power  for  40  mills;  and  which,  it  is  hoped,  will  give  a new  impulse 
to  the  energies  of  this  ancient  and  opulent  town. 

Marblehead,  4z  miles  S.  E.  of  this  place  on  a rocky  point  projecting 
into  the  sea,  is,  like  Salem,  a town  subsisting  exclusively  by  maritime  pur- 
suits, being  the  most  largely  engaged  in  the  fishing  business  of  any  other 
town  in  the  United  States.  In  1818  it  employed  in  the  fisheries  103 
vessels.  It  suffered  as  severely  in  the  revolutionary  war,  as  any  other  town 
in  the  Union;  and  at  the  close  of  the  late  war  500  of  its  mariners  were 
in  foreign  prisons.  It  contains  5 places  of  public  worship.  The  inhabit- 
ants are  noted  for  their  generous  and  reckless  readiness  to  jeopard 
their  lives  at  the  call  of  war  or  the  dangers  of  the  sea.  The  population  in 
1820  was  5,630.  In  1830,  5,182,  being  one  of  the  very  few  towns  that 
shows  a diminution  of  its  numbers  since  the  preceding  census.  Being 
equally  remarkable  for  its  salubrity,  and  the  prolific  increase  of  its  in- 
habitants, this  circumstance  must  be  accounted  for  by  its  losses  from 
emigration. 

Beverly,  N.  E.  of  Salem,  and  connected  with  it  by  a long  bridge,  is  a 
populous,  wealthy  and  mercantile  town,  containing  4 churches,  and  being, 
like  Marblehead,  largely  engaged  in  the  fisheries.  The  population  is 
between  4 and  5,000. 

Newburyport  is  a handsomely  built  town  on  the  south  bank  of  the 
Merrimac,  3 miles  from  the  mouth,  and  32  N.  E.  from  Boston.  It  contains 
6 public  buildings,  and  7 houses  for  public  worship.  It  has  a respectable 
amount  of  shipping  and  foreign  commerce,  and  is  largely  engaged  in  the 
fisheries.  Ship  building  is  carried  on  here  to  a considerable  extent.  Its 
churches,  adorned  with  tall  and  handsome  spires,  give  it  a striking  appear- 
ance as  it  is  approached.  Population  in  1820,  6,852.  In  1830, 6,275, 
showing  a diminution  of  its  numbers,  since  the  preceding  census. 
Gloucester,  16  miles  N.  E.  from  Salem,  is  a sea  port  with  considerable 
shipping,  6 churches,  and  between  6 and  7,000  inhabitants.  New 
Bedford,  situated  on  the  estuary  of  Accushnet  River  emptying  into 
Buzzard’s  Bay,  has  a safe  and  convenient  harbor,  and  a large  amount 
of  shipping.  Besides  considerable  foreign  commerce  this  town  is  largely 
concerned  in  the  whale  fishery,  and  the  fisheries  of  cod  on  the  grand 
banks.  It  contains  5 or  6 houses  of  public  worship,  and  is  a wealthy 
and  thriving  town.  Population  in  1830,  7,592.  It  is  situated  52  miles 
S.  of  Boston.  Nantucket  is,  in  many  respects,  the  most  striking  and 
singular  town  in  America.  It  is  situated  on  an  island,  24  miles  from  the 
main  land,  15  miles  loner,  and  on  an  average  8 miles  broad.  The  island 
Vol.  II,  ~ 5 


34 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


is  occupied  in  common  by  the  inhabitants  of  this  town,  who  pasture  3 or 
400  cows,  and  feed  1,400  sheep  upon  it.  But  their  grand  pasturage  is 
in  the  South  Seas,  at  Ihe  other  extremity  of  the  globe;  and  the  instrument 
with  which  they  dispatch  the  unwieldy  animals,  that  have  been  fattening 
for  them  in  the  pathless  depths,  is  the  harpoon.  Though  they  have  some 
respectable  manufactories,  the  whaling  business  is  the  grand  occupation 
of  the  inhabitants.  They  have  not  far  from  50  ships  employed  in  this 
business.  Most  of  these  vessels,  in  their  fearful  pursuit,  double  Cape 
Horn.  The  crews  are  trained  to  become  a sort  of  men  fish;  and  in 
killing  the  huge  sea  monsters  they  encounter  perils,  and  accustom  them- 
selves to  enterprizes,  that  are  hardly  dreamed  of  by  the  peaceful  agricul- 
turist of  the  interior. 

The  town  contains  2 banks,  2 insurance  offices,  a woollen  factory,  30 
spermaceti  works,  and  5 houses  for  public  worship.  The  Friends  con- 
stitute a considerable  proportion  of  the  population.  Population  in  1820, 
7,266.  It  is  120  miles  S.  E.  from  Boston. 

Plymouth,  the  hive  of  the  puritan  pilgrims,  and  the  oldest  town  in  New 
England  is  situated  on  the  sea,  36  miles  S.  E.  from  Boston.  It  contains  a 
considerable  amount  of  shipping  employed  in  foreign  trade  and  the  fish- 
eries. Beside  the  public  buildings,  it  contains  4 churches,  and  not  far 
from  5,000  inhabitants, 

Lowell,  near  the  Merrimac,  12  miles  N.  of  Boston,  is  next  to  Pitts- 
burgh, the  largest  manufacturing  town  in  the  United  States.  We  can 
well  remember  coming  over  the  site,  when  it  was  an  uninhabited  and 
sterile  plain.  The  first  erection  was  in  1813.  In  1818  it  began  to 
flourish.  The  water  power  is  convenient,  immense  and  unfailing.  In 
1828  two  and  a half  millions  of  dollars  were  invested  in  new  factories. 
The  number  of  persons  employed  was  1,600.  The  factories  were  built 
in  compact  streets.  About  that  time  this,  in  common  with  other  similar 
establishments,  experienced  great  depression,  from  which  it  has  since 
entirely  recovered,  [t  contains  a number  of  churches  and  public  build- 
ings, and  has  had  the  most  rapid  growth  of  any  town  in  the  state.  In 
1830  it  contained  6,478  inhabitants. 

Worcester  is  a beautiful  interior  town,  40  miles  S.  W.  from  Boston. 
It  contains  a number  of  spacious  public  buildings,  3 churches,  and  one 
street  more  than  a mile  in  length,  handsomely  built,  some  of  the  houses 
having  an  appearance  of  splendor.  It  contains  a number  of  considera- 
ble manufacturing  establishments;  and  since  the  Blackstone  Canal  has 
connected  it  with  Providence  and  the  sea,  it  has  shown  the  rapid  advance 
which  has  resulted  from  similar  causes  elsewhere.  As  a fact,  illustrating 
the  results  of  the  canal  system,  it  is  stated,  that  cabinet  work  was  man- 
ufactured here  from  timber  which  grew  on  the  lake  shore  of  Ohio. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


35 


Springfield  is  a large  and  handsome  village  on  the  east  side  of  the  Con- 
necticut, 2S  miles  N*  of  Hartford,  and  88  ,S.  W.  from  Boston,  containing 
a number  of  public  buildings  and  manufactories,  2 public  libraries,  and  a 
great  number  of  elegant  bouses.  The  United  States  arsenal  a little  east 
of  the  village,  makes  an  imposing  show.  A capital  U.  S.  manufactory 
of  small  arms  is  situated  about  a mile  from  the  arsenal,  employing  a 
number  of  mills  and  work  shops,  and  about  250  hands,  who  manufac- 
ture about  18,000  muskets  a year. 

‘ Northampton  is  a charmingly  situated  village  on  the  West  bank  of  the 
Connecticut,  95  miles  west  of  Boston.  It  contains  a number  of  public 
handsome  buildings  and  is  noted  for  two  fine  hotels;  and  for  being  a place 
of  great  resort  for  travellers,  from  the  romantic  beauty  of  the  country  in 
the  vicinity.  A charming  stream  passes  through  the  centre  of  the  town, 
on 'which  are  manufactories.  Hound  Hill  school  in- this  town,  under. the 
care  of  Messrs.  Bancroft  and  Cogswell  has  gained  great  reputation. 

There-  is  a noted  lead  mine,  visited  as  a curiosity  hear  this  town. 

Waltham  is  known  as  the  seat  of  a great  manufacturing  establishment 
like  that  at  Lowell.  Cambridge  the  seat  of  Harvard  University,  is  a 
quiet  and  beautiful  village.  Lynn,  famous  for  its  charming  resort  for  sea 
air  and  scenery  in  the  peninsula  of  Nahant,  and  its  immense  manufacture 
of  shoes,  contains  6,130  inhabitants,  chiefly  occupied  in  that  pursuit. 
Taunton,  a large  and  beautiful  manufacturing  village  on  Taunton  River, 
near  Rhode  Island,  contains  5,798  inhabitants.  Andover  is  an  opulent 
agricultural  town,  20  miles  north  of  Boston,  and  contains  two  large  par- 
ishes. The  south  parish  has  a number  of  manufacturing  establish- 
ments. The  theological  seminary  in  tins  place  is  richly  endowed. 
Its  buildings  comprise  four  dwelling  houses  for  the  officers,  and  three 
spacious  public  edifices.  The  library  contains  over  5,000  volumes  and 
there  are  four  theological  professors.  The  number  of  students  ranges  from 
120  to  150.  Phillips’  academy  we  have  already  noted,  as  one  of  the 
oldest  and  best  endowed  academies  in  the  United  States.  Thirty 
beautiful  villages  more  might  be  named,  containing  their  white  streets, 
their  spires  and  literary  institutions,  and  at  least  twenty  towns  more,  in 
which  there  are  large  manufacturing  establishments.  Among  the  hand 
some  villages  are  a number  not  here  specified  on  Connecticut  River,  a 
stream,  which  in  its  whole  course,  from  its  sources  to  its  estuary,  flows  by 
more  handsome  towns,  than  any  other  in  the  United  States.  Among 
those  in  Massachusetts,  we  mention  Northfield,  Deerfield,  Hatfield  and 
Hadley,  as  samples  of  many  more.  Concord,  16  miles  northwest  from 
Boston  is  a large  and  neat  village,  and  noted  for  being  the  place,  where 
the  British  were  first  attatcked  on  the  day  of  Lexington  Battle.  Among 
the  considerable  manufacturing  towns  not  before  mentioned,  are  Fitch 


36 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


burg  and  Milbury  in  the  county  of  Worcester,  Bridgewater  and  Middlebo- 
rough  famous  for  their  manufactures  of  iron,  Leominister,  Mendon, 
Troy,  Leicester,  and  various  other  places  too  numerous  to  mention. 

Islands.  We  have  mentioned  Nantucket.  Martha’s  Vineyard  is  a 
considerable  island  west  of  Nantucket,  which  along  with  the  Elizabeth 
Island,  constitutes  Duke’s  county. 

Roads  and  Canals.  Turnpikes  too  numerous  to  mention  intersect 
the  country  in  every  direction.  Middlesex  canal  connecting  the  Merri- 
mae  with  Boston  harbor,  is  28  miles  in  length;  and  is  noted  for 
having  been  the  first  work  of  the  kind  of  any  consequence  attempted  in 
the  country.  The  canal  round  South  Hadley  Falls,  is  712  rods  long; 
but  the  greater  part  of  the  cut  being  through  a solid  rock,  in  some  places 
40  feet  in  thickness,  it  is  a work  of  great  magnitude.  Blackstone  Canal 
connecting  Worcester  with  Providence,  is  40  miles  long.  It  is  in  con- 
templation to  continue  this  through  the  interior  to  Fitchburg.  A rail 
road  is  in  contemplation  from  Boston  to  Hudson’s  River.  Various  other 
public  works,  both  canals  and  rail  roads,  have  been  discussed,  and  some 
have  passed  to  the  more  definite  shape  of  having  the  stock  taken. 

Productions.  Every  thing  that  the  northern  states  furnish,  and 
much,  that  it  not  indigenous  to  the  climate,  has  been  naturalized  by 
horticultural  care  and  skill.  It  is  particularly  noted  for  producing  great 
quantities  of  the  finest  fruit.  It  shares  the  greater  portion  of  the  Bank 
and  whale  fisheries  in  the  United  States.  This  pursuit  employs  many 
thousands  of  hands,  furnishes  one  of  the  most  important  items  in  these 
parts  of  the  United  States,  and  trains  vast  numbers  of  the  most  experi- 
enced and  intrepid  mariners  in  the  world.  The  ships  of  this  great  mari- 
time state  spread  their  sails  in  every  sea.  Her  manufacturing  establish- 
ments are  too  numerous  to  specify.  Her  cotton  factories  employ  a vast 
number  of  hands  and  a great  amount  of  capital.  A proof  of  the  result 
of  these  great  establishments  may  be  found  in  the  fact,  that  twenty  years 
since  the  cheap  cottons  of  the  United  States  were  imported  from  India. 
This  state  now  sends  her  manufactured  cottons  there,  and  finds  the  trade 
lucrative.  Since  the  manufacturing  system  has  prevailed,  this  state  has 
rapidly  increased  in  population;  and  the  increase  of  the  bustle  of  business 
may  be  inferred  from  the  fact,  that  the  number  of  stage  coaches,  that  pass 
to  and  from  Boston,  has  tripled.  As  an  example  of  its  industry  more  than 
a million  pairs  of  shoes  have  been  manufactured  in  Lynn  in  a single  year. 

History.  This  state  and  Virginia  are  the  nursing  mothers  of  the  At- 
lantic States.  The  English  people,  who  emigrated  in  1620  to  the  dreary 
and  snowy  wilderness  of  Plymouth  strand  were  called  puritans.  The 
contest  for  our  independence  began  at  Lexington  eleven  miles  N.  W.  of 
Boston.  On  a plain  stone  column,  near  the  church  on  the  public  square, 


ATLANTIC  STATES- 


37 


vs  the  simple  and  affecting  inscription  of  the  names  of  the  first  victims 
of  the  struggle.  No  state  in  the  union  has  left  a more  indelible  impress 
of  her  enterprize,  education,  institutions  and  character  on  the  whole 
country,  and  on  all  countries,  where  the  American  flag  is  unfurled, than 
Massachusetts. 


RHODE  ISLAND. 

Length,  40  miles.  Breadth,  29.  Contains  1350  square  miles. 
Bounded  N.  and  E.  by  Massachusetts;  S.  by  the  Atlantic;  W.  by  Con- 
necticut. Between 41°  22'  and  42°  3'  N.  L.  and  5°  7'  and  5°  54'  E.  L. 
from  Washington. 

Counties.  Bristol,  Bristol , Kent,  E.  Greenwich;  Newport,  Newport; 
Providence,  Providence;  Washington,  S.  Kingston.  Population  in  1820, 
83,059.  In  1830,  97,210.  In  point  of  area,  this  is  by  far  the  smallest 
state  in  the  union. 

Physical  Aspect.  Along  the  sea  shore  of  the  main  land  much  of  the 
soil  is  sterile.  Rhode  Island,  which  gives  name  to  the  state,  has  a fine 
soil,  is  all  under  high  cultivation,  and  in  the  warm  months  presents  a 
most  delightful  verdure.  The  climate,  especially  of  this  beautiful  island 
is  highly  salubrious. 

Rivers , Bays , and  Islands.  The  courses  of  the  rivers  are  short. 
They  are  Pawtucket,  Providence,  Pawtuxet,  Pawcatuc,  and  Wood  River. 
Narraganset  Bay  stretches  from  Point  Seaconnet  on  the  mainland  to 
Point  Judith  on  the  west;  being  35  miles  long,  and  embosoming  many 
islands.  Rhode  Island,  the  chief  of  them,  is  15  miles  long  by  an  average 
of  three  and  a half  wide.  Cannonicut,  Prudence,  Patience,  Hope, 
Dyer’s,  Hog,  and  Block  Islands  lie  farther  west  in  the  Bay.  There  are 
few  finer  sheets  of  water  in  the  world,  furnishing  richer  and  more  inter- 
esting views  of  sea  scenery,  and  of  towns  and  spires  along  the  curving 
shore,  than  the  steam-boat  passage  from  Providence  up  Long  Island 
Sound  to  New  York. 

Productions.  The  same  as  in  Massachusetts;  except,  that  being  fur- 
ther south,  parts  of  the  state,  particularly  the  insular  portions  would 
yield  fruits  and  productions,  that  require  a milder  climate.  The  islands, 
and  the  Narraganset  country  are  celebrated  for  their  fertility  and  their 
fine  sheep,  cattle,  butter  and  cheese.  The  remainder  of  the  state  has  a 
thin  soil,  in  some  parts  rocky  and  sterile.  Iron  and  copper  ores  are 
found  in  the  state ; and  it  abounds  in  lime  stone.  Anthracite  coal  hag 


38 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


been  discovered  in  the  island,  that  gives  the  state  its  name.  The  shores, 
bay  and  harbors  abound  in  the  finest  fish. 

Chief  Towns . Providence  is  situated  about  a mile  from  the  mouth  of 
the  Pawtucket  on  both  sides  of  it  and  connected  by  a bridge  over  it. 
Its  position  is  a pleasant  one,  though  on  the  sharp  acclivities  of  hills.  It 
possesses  a fine  harbor  for  ships  of  almost  any  burden ; and  its  commerce 
is  extensive  and  rapidly  increasing,  its  shipping  amounting  to  25,000 
tons.  It  contains  15  or  16  public  buildings  among  which  the  buildings  of 
Brown  University,  and  the  arcade,  a magnificent  structure,  are  the 
most  conspicuous.  It  has  12  churches  for  the  different  denominations. 
Two  of  the  congregational  churches,  and  a baptist  and  episcopalian 
church  are  remarkable  for  their  beauty.  The  numerous  and  respectable 
manufactories  of  the  city  and  Pawtucket  are,  what  has  given  this  city  its 
impulse  towards  prosperity.  Few  towns  have  increased  more  rapidly 
within  the  last  ten  years.  Another  element  ,of  this  increase  has  been  its 
connection  with  the  interior  of  Massachusetts  by  the  Blackstone  canal. 
Brown  University  is  a respectable  and  flourishing  institution.  There  are 
two  college  edifices,  one  150  by  46  feet,  ahd  4 stories  high,  with  wings; 
and  the  other  120  by  40  feet.  The  position  of  these  buildings  on  a noble 
elevation  is  charming.  The , government  of  the  university  is  composed 
of  36  trustees,  of  whom  the  president  and  21,  others  must  be  baptists. 
The  other  members  of  the  board  are  shared  among  the  different  denomi- 
nations, of  whom  5 must  be  friends.  This  is  a most  impressive  example 
of  the  real  liberality  of  the  age  ! Such,  according  to  this  charter,  must 
be  the  components  of  this  corporation,  be  the  spirit  of  the  age  what  it 
may  ! This  notwithstanding,  it  is  well  provided  with  the  customary  ap- 
purtenances of  such  seminaries,  and  has  proved  an  efficient  and  useful 
institution.  The  friend’s  boarding  school  in  this  city  is  a noble  establish- 
ment. Every  aspect  of  this  thriving  and  beautiful  town  indicates 
cheerful  activity.  It  is  a noted  town  of  steam  boat  embarkation  up  the 
sound  for  New  York  for  the  numerous  travellers  from  the  maritime  coun- 
try north  of  it.  It  is  40  miles  S.  W.  of  Boston.  Its  population  in  1820, 
was  11,767.  In  1830,  17,832,  showing  a more  rapid  growth  than  any 
other  town  in  New  England,  with  the  exception  of  Lowell,  and  consitut- 
ing  it  in  population  the  second  town  in  that  division  of  the  country. 

The  flourishing  town  of  Pawtucket  lies  partly  in  this  state,  in  what  is 
called  North  Providence;  and  partly  in  Massachusetts.  It  is  noted  for 
the  number  and  extent  of  its  manufactories,  and  the  thriving  village, 
that  has  grown  up  about  them.  These  factories  are  at  the  charming  cas- 
cade of  Pawtucket  River.  Five  or  six  public  buildings,  two  banks,  ten 
or  twelve  cotton  factories,  and  as  many  other  factories  have  here  been  the 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


39 


growth  of  a few  years.  The  whirling  of  the  mills,  the  dashing  of  the 
water,  and  the  activity  of  the  village,  altogether  constitute  a spectacle  of 
great  interest.  Population  about  4,000. 

Newport,  which  shares  the  seat  of  government  alternately  with  Provi- 
dence, is  situated  in  the  southern  extremity  of  Rhode  Island,  30  miles  S. 
of  Providence.  Its  harbor  for  spaciousness,  depth,  safety  and  ease  of 
access,  has  few  superior  to  it  in  the  United  States.  The  town  is  large 
and  pleasant,  and  delightfully  situated  on  a lovely  island,  with  a fine  cli- 
mate, a favorite,  accustomed,  and  almost  prescribed  resort  for  strangers 
from  the  West  Indies,  and  the  south  of  the  United  States,  for  spending 
the  summer  months.  Yet  it  has  an  air  of  antiquity  and  decay.  It  is 
strongly  defended  by  three  forts  on  the  seaboard,  and  is  the  seat  of  a 
military  hospital  of  the  United  States.  Fort  Adams  is  one  of  the  most 
important  fortresses  in  the  U.  S.  coast  line  of  defence.  The  poor 
house  of  this  city  is  remarkable  for  the  cheapness,  efficiency,  and  hu 
manity  of  the  establishment.  Rent  is  uncommonly  cheap,  and  the  fish 
market  is  the  most  cheap,  luxurious  and  abundant  perhaps  in  the  world. 
It  has  9 or  10  public  buildings,  11  churches,  and  in  1820  contained  7,319 
inhabitants.  In  1830,  8,010. 

Bristol  is  a neat  commercial  town,  with  a good  harbor,  and  owning 
considerable  shipping,  38  miles  S.  W.  of  Boston,  and  153  of  Providence. 
It  has  a number  of  public  buildings,  4 churches  and  about  3,000  inhabit- 
ants. Warren,  South  Kingston,  East  Greenwich,  Smithfield,  Pawtucket? 
and  Warwich  are  the  other  considerable  villages.  The  last  named  town 
contains  5,529  inhabitants. 

The  state  has  10  incorporated  academies,  and  not  far  from  300  primary 
schools.  This  is  the  more  honorable  to  it,  as  public  schools  are  not  sup- 
ported by  law  as  in  the  other  New  England  States.  Baptists  are  the 
most  numerous  religious  denomination,  and  next  to  them  Friends.  There 
are  100  fixed  congregations  in  the  state. 

The  exports  of  this  state  in  1829  were  $122,188.  The  tonnage  was 
43,406  tons.  By  the  census  of  1820,  6,091  persons  were  engaged  in 
manufactures,  chiefly  of  cotton.  The  value  of  manufactured  goods  was 
$4,329,000.  It  must  now  amount  to  $10,000,000. 


CONNECTICUT. 

Is  bounded  N.  by  Massachusetts,  E.  by  Rhode  Island,  S.  by  Long  Isl- 
and Sound,  W.  by  New  York.  Between  41°  and  41°  2'  N.  L.  and  3° 
16'  and  5°  HE,  L.  from  Washington.  Length  88  miles;  average  breadth 


40 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


53  miles.  Contains  4,664  square  miles.  The  counties  are  Fairfield, 
Fairfield , Danbury;  Hartford,  Hartford;  Litchfield , Litchfield;  Middle- 
sex, Middletown;  New  Haven,  New  Haven;  New  London,  New  London, 
Norwich;  Tolland,  Tolland;  Windham,  Windham.  Population  in  1820, 
275,248.  In  1830,297,711. 

Physical  Aspect.  There  are  some  beautiful  narrow  plains  along  the 
rivers.  The  general  surface  is  strongly  undulating.  Some  portions  of 
the  surface  are  rugged.  The  Green  Mountain  range  passing  through 
this  state  into  the  sea,  it  has  a number  of  mountains,  though  none  of  but 
moderate  elevation.  The  soil  is  generally  rich.  Almost  the  whole  sur- 
face is  under  small  stone  enclosures,  an  index,  we  may  remark  in  passing, 
of  New  England  husbandry  in  general.  The  face  of  the  country  is 
chequered  by  a vast  number  of  roads. 

Productions.  Every  thing  indicates  a numerous  and  industrious  pop- 
ulation, and  a great  effort  to  extract  all  that  is  practicable  from  the  soil. 
The  point,  in  which  the  productions  of  this  state  differ  from  those  of  the 
other  New  England  States,  is  in  more  abundant  orchards,  and  in  greater 
care  and  skill  in  the  preparation  of  what  is  known  abroad  by  the  name 
of  Goshen  butter  and  cheese.  The  exports  are  chiefly  to  the  West  In- 
dies, and  among  the  products  common  to  the  other  New  England  States, 
the  industrious  people  have  gained  a reputation  abroad  for  the  great 
amount  of  onions  raised  for  exportation.  The  state  owns  60,859  tons  of 
shipping  engaged  in  foreign  trade;  and  the  value  of  the  exports  in  1829 
was  $521,545. 

Rivers.  This  state  receives  its  name  from  the  Connecticut,  which 
runs  through  the  state  from  north  to  south.  This  river  rises  near  Canada  in 
New  Hampshire,  and  after  a course  of  410  miles  through  a most  charm- 
ing alluvial  border  in  its  whole  length  rendered  cheerful  by  a succession 
of  beautiful  villages,  it  empties  into  Long  Island  Sound  between  Say- 
brook  and  Lime.  It  is  navigable  for  considerable  vessels  to  Middleton; 
for  vessels  of  8 feet  draft  to  Hartford,  50  miles  from  its  mouth;  and  for 
steam  boats  to  Bath,  New  Hampshire,  250  miles  higher.  There  are  6 
considerable  falls  in  the  river,  of  which  the  most  remarkable  are  Bellows 
Falls  at  Walpole.  These  falls  have  been  overcome  by  means  of  locks 
and  dams.  The  elevation  overcome  by  these  artificial  means  is  200 
feet.  The  other  considerable  streams  are  Housatonic,  Thames,  and 
Naugatuck. 

Religion.  There  are  460  fixed  religious  societies,  of  which  about 
half  are  Congregationalists,  inclining  in  their  church  government  more 
to  the  forms  of  Presbyterianism,  than  the  same  churches  in  the  other 
New  England  states. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


41 


Literature.  Yale  College  ranks  as  the  second  literary  institution  in 
the  United  States.  It  is  situated  on  a level  square,  in  the  centre  of  the 
charming  city  of  New  Haven.  The  centre  of  this  square  is  occupied  by 
public  buildings;  and  the  college  buildings,  8 in  number,  range  on  one 
of  the  sides.  The  square  is  shaded  withrows  of  elms;  and,  though  in 
the  midst  of  a busy  and  bustling  town,  wears  the  aspect  of  a repose,  that 
befits  the  meditative  retreats  of  students.  The  united  resources  of  the 
libraries  furnish  about  10,000  volumes.  The  philosophical  and  chemical 
apparatus  is  excellent  and  complete.  The  faculty  consists  of  a president, 
10  professors,  and  5 tutors.  The  whole  number  of  students  in  1829, 
divided  among  the  departments  of  law,  medicine,  theology  and  the  aca 
demic  course,  was  496.  Of  this  number,  the  college  students  made  269. 

Of  high  schools,  seminaries  and  academies,  there  are  34 ; of  which  a 
school  in  New  Haven,  under  the  care  of  Messrs.  Dwight,  on  the  plan  of 
the  Round  Hill  School  at  Northampton,  has  much  reputation.  There  is 
an  asylum  for  the  deaf  and  dumb  at  Hartford,  which,  under  the  superin- 
tendance of  Mr.  Gallaudet,  and  Mr.  Le  Clerc,  a pupil  of  the  famous 
Abbe  Sicard,  as  assistant,  has  gained  high  estimation  among  the  lovers  of 
humanity.  The  system  of  general  education  and  free  schools,  is  here 
carried  to  its  utmost  extent;  and  what  gives  it  efficiency  is  a fund  of 
nearly  two  millions  of  dollars,  the  interest  of  which,  appropriated  exclu- 
sively to  the  support  of  schools,  enables  parents  to  give  their  children 
a gratuitous  education. 

Manufactures.  The  ingenuity  and  industry  of  the  people  of  this 
state  in  this  line,  has  a reputation  coextensive  with  the  union.  From  the 
number  of  articles  which  they  send  abroad,  known  in  the  south  and  west 
by  the  name  of  yarikee  notions , especially  tin-ware,  wooden  clocks,  and 
a certain  species  of  books,  made  especially  to  sell  in  particular  regions 
of  the  country,  many  a pleasant  knavery  has  been  ascribed  to  them,  of 
which  the  enterprising  and  respectable  travelling  merchants  were  wholly 
harmless.  Their  manufactures  consist  of  cotton  and  woollen  goods, 
tin-ware,  glass,  paper,  shoes,  clocks,  buttons,  fire  arms,  and  many  other 
products  of  their  ingenuity.  In  many  of  the  squares  of  the  villages  are 
heaps  of  the  cuttings  of  tin,  notunlike  the  parings  of  leather  in  the 
town  of  Lynn. 

Towns . New  Haven  and  Hartford  are  alternately  the  seats  of  the  state 
government.  But  New  Haven  is  the  largest  city  in  the  state.  Its  posi- 
tion is  on  the  head  of  a bay  of  Long  Island  Sound.  The  area  is  an 
extensive  plain,  bounded  on  the  north  by  magnificent  stone  bluffs,  3 
or  400  feet  high.  Two  streams  of  water  mark  its  eastern  and  western 
extremities.  A square  in  the  centre  is  laid  out  as  a public  ground.  It 
is  shaded  with  trees,  kept  neat,  and  is  of  a drv  and  absorbing  soil,  so,  as 
Vol.  H.  ' 6 


42 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


to  be  generally  free  from  the  inconveniencies  of  muddiness.  On  this 
square  are  the  public  buildings,  the  college  edifices,  and  four  churches. 
Taken  all  together,  there  is  no  square  in  the  union  to  compare  with  the 
beauty  of  this.  Three  of  these  churches  are  very  handsome  buildings, 
particularly  the  Episcopal  church.  The  streets  are  regular,  the  squares 
rectangular, and  the  town,  though  the  houses  are  not  lofty,  and  many  of  them 
of  wood,  present  a singularly  pleasant i and  cheerful  aspect.  The  burial 
ground  in  the  north-west  part  of  the  city  particularly  elicits  the  interest 
of  strangers.  The  quiet  and  narrow  city  of  remembrances  in  the  midst 
of  the  city  of  the  living  is  laid  out  with  exquisite  taste,  and  has  often 
been  compared  to  the  famous  cemetery  of  the  Pere  la  Chaise,  in  Paris. 
It  would  be  to  the  credit  of  our  country,  if  such  regard  to  the  monu- 
mental abodes  of  the  remains  of  our  fathers  was  more  common.  The 
long  wharf  is  longer  than  the  famous  one  so  called  in  Boston.  It  is 
the  largest  maritime  port  in  the  state,  and  owns  considerable  shipping. 
The  city  contains  18  public  buildings  in  all.  Among  the  singular  ones, 
is  an  observatory,  after  the  model  of  the  tower  of  the  winds  at  Athens. 
The  old  state  house,  which  was  an  indifferent  building,  has  given  place 
to  a new  and  handsome  one.  Many  of  the  recent  erections  are  handsome 
structures  of  brick  and  stone.  It  is  34  miles  S.  W.  of  Hartford,  and  76 
N.  E.  from  New  York.  Its  population  in  1820  was  8,327.  In  1830* 
10,180. 

Hartford  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Connecticut,  50  miles 
from  its  estuary.  Small  vessels  ascend  the  river  to  this  city.  It  is 
central  to  a rich  and  populous  country.  It  contains  9 public  build- 
ings, among  which  the  state  house  makes  the  most  conspicuous  figure, 
and  9 churches.  One  of  the  Congregational  churches  is  a spacious 
and  elegant  building.  The  asylum  of  the  deaf  and  dumb,  a mile  west 
of  the  town,  on  Tower  Hill,  is  a building  creating  striking  interest 
The  retreat  for  the  insane,  a little  south  of  the  town,  is  a spacious 
stone  building,  150  by  50  feet,  with  extensive -grounds  for  the  unfortu- 
nate patients.  Washington  Episcopal  College  has  two  spacious  stone 
buildings.  Montevideo,  the  seat  of  Daniel  Wadsworth,  Esq.,  perched  on 
a mountain  9 miles  distant,  adds  to  the  beauty  of  the  panorama  of  this 
city.  Hartford  has  a respectable  amount  of  commerce,  and  numerous 
manufactures.  Considerable  of  printing  and  publishing  is  done  here. 
It  is  100  miles  S.  W.  of  Boston.  Population  in  1820,  6,901.  In  1830, 
9,789.  New  London,  a port  of  entry  on  the  Thames,  3 miles  from  its 
mouth,  owns  considerable  shipping,  contains  5 public  buildings,  4 
churches,  and  about  4,000  inhabitants. 

Middletown,  15  miles  S.  of  Hartford,  and  on  the  same  side  of  the 
Connecticut,  is  a charmingly  situated  place,  with  considerable  trade  and 

, " Or' 

/ % } 1 1 if/ 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


48 


manufactures.  It  shows  a large  amount  of  the  shipping  of  the  state,  as 
the  shipping  of  Hartford  is  registered  here.  It  has  a number  of  public 
buildings,  4 churches  in  the  town,  and  3 others  in  the  vicinity.  Popula- 
tion in  1830, 6,892. — Norwich  is  a considerable  place,  at  the  head  of  the 
navigation  on  the  Thames,  with  a number  of  public  buildings,  and  6 
houses  of  public  worship.  It  consists  of  three  distinct  villages,  embo- 
somed in  & romantic  vale.  Population  about  4,000.  All -the  foremen* 
tioned  neat  and  flourishing  towns  in  this  state,  by  a strange  and  rather 
ludicrous  perversion  of  language,  are  written  cities.  What  might  be 
fairly  called  a town,  dwindles  in  the  thought  to  a village,  when  the  name 
city  is  applied  to  it.  The  United  States  have  but  five  towns,  that  can 
with  any  propriety  be  called  cities. 

Beside  the  cities,  East  Hartford,  opposite  that  city,  on  the  E.  bank  of 
the  Connecticut,  has  respectable  manufactures.  The  other  considerable 
towns  are  Bridgeport,  Stonington,  Litchfield,  Fairfield,  Danbury,  Wind- 
ham, Wethersfield,  Stonington,  Windsor,  East  Windsor,  Suffield,  Enfield, 
Hadham,  Derby,  Milford,  Stamford,  and  Tolland. 

Roads , Canals , £$c.  In  this  industrious  and  populous  state,  the  roads 
are  numerous  and  fine,  and  many  of  them  turnpikes.  The  Hampshire 
and  Hampden  canal  extends  from  Northampton,  on  the  Connecticut,  to 
the  southern  limit  of  Massachusetts,  where  it  takes  the  name  of  Farm- 
ington canal,  and  passes  through  Connecticut  to  New  Haven.  The  en- 
tire length  is  58  miles. 

Manners.  The  people  are  generally  tall,  muscular,  and  robust,  and 
noted  for  their  strong  attachment  to  their  native  state,  their  ancient  puri- 
tanical customs,  and  a religious  faith  and  observance  of  the  strictest  sort. 
Though  they  emigrate  extensively,  they  longer  remain  in  their  foreign 
abode  a peculiar  people,  than  the  emigrants  from  any  other  of  the  New 
England  states.  The  heir  loom  of  the  puritans  has  descended  rather  to 
Connecticut,  than  Massachusetts.  To  New  Connecticut,  in  Ohio,  a tract 
in  the  N.  E.  extremity  of  that  state,  120  miles  by  52  in  extent,  they  have 
transferred  Connecticut  strictness,  industry,  and  the  church-building  and 
church-going  spirit.  No  person,  in  becoming  acquainted  with  that  coun- 
try, can  fail  to  observe  what  a fair  transcript  it  is  of  the  original  copy. 

Minerals , Fossils,  S$c.  Iron  ore  is  smelted  and  wrought  to  a consid- 
erable extent.  Copper  mines  have  been  discovered  in  different  places. 
There  is  a lead  mine  near  Middletown.  Marble  is  wrought  to  a con- 
siderable extent.  Porcelain  clay  and  black  lead  are  found,  and  cobalt 
is  discovered  in  Chatham.  The  dark  red  Connecticut  freestone  is  found 
in  abundance  in  different  places.  It  is  quarried  with  great  ease,  and 
hardens  in  the  air;  and  has  an  imposing,  though  rather  gloomy  aspect, 
when  constituting  a large  building. 


44 


ATLANTIC  STATES, 


NEW  YORK, 

Is  the  most  northern  of  the  middle  states,  and  the  most  populous  state 
in  the  union.  It  is  bounded  N.  by  lake  Ontario,  the  St.  Lawrence  and 
Lower  Canada5*;  E.  by  Vermont,  Massachusetts  and  Connecticut  ; S.  by 
the  Atlantic,  New  Jersey  and  Pennsylvania,  W.  by  Pennsylvania,  Lake 
Erie,  and  the  Niagara.  Between  39°  45'  and  45°  N.  L;  and  2°  51'  W. 
and  5°  E.  L.  from  Washington. 

Length  316  miles.  Breadth  304.  Containing  47,000  square  miles. 


Counties . Chief  Towns , 

Albany,  Albany. 

Alleghany,  Angelica. 

Broome,  Binghampton. 
Cattaraugus,  Ellicottsville. 
Cayuga,  Auburn. 

Chautauque,  Mayville. 
Chenango,  Norwich. 

Clinton,  Plattsburgh. 

Columbia,  Hudson. 

Cortlandt,  Cortlandtville. 
Delaware,  Delhi. 

Dutchess,  Poughkeepsie. 

Erie,  Buffalo. 

Essex,  Elizabethtown. 

Franklin,  Malone. 

Genessee,  Batavia. 

Greene,  Cattskill. 

Hamilton,  Wells. 

Herkimer,  Herkimer. 

Jefferson,  Watertown. 

Kings,  Flatbush. 

Lewis,  Martinsburgh. 

Livingston,  Geneseo. 

Madison,  Morrisville. 

Monroe,  Rochester. 

Montgomery,  Johnstown. 

New  York,  New-York. 

Niagara,  Lockport. 

Population  in  1820,  1,372,812. 


Counties . Chief  Tonms. 

Oneida,  Rome. 

Onandago,  Onondaga. 

Ontario,  Canandaigua. 

Orange,  Newburgh  and  Goshen , 
Orleans,  Gaines. 

Oswego,  Oswego. 

Otsego,  Cooperstown. 

Putnam,  Carmel. 

Queen’s.  N.  Hempsted, 
Rensselaer,  Troy. 

Richmond,  Richmond. 
Rockland,  Clarkstown. 

St.  Lawrence,  Ogdensburgh. 
Saratoga,  Ballston. 
Schenectady,  Schenectady. 
Schoharie,  Schoharie. 

Seneca,  Ovid,  Waterloo. 
Steuben,  Bath. 

Suffolk,  Suffolk  C.  H. 

Sullivan,  Monticello, 

Tioga,  Elmira,  Owego. 
Tompkins,  Ithaca. 

Ulster,  Kingston. 

Warren,  Caldwell. 

Washington,  Salem,  Sandy-HilL 
Wayne,  Lyons,  Palmyra. 
Westchester,  Bedford. 

Yates,  Penn  Yann. 

In  1830,  1,913,505. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


45 


Physical  Aspect.  This  state  takes  rank  in  the  confederacy  of  the 
union,  not  only  in  population,  but  extent,  wealth,  great  public  works, 
and  its  interesting  physical  configuration.  It  spreads  through  the 
whole  breadth  of  the  republic,  and  while  one  extremity  feels,  along  the 
great  length  of  Long  Island,  the  sea  breeze,  and  boasts  the  bustle, 
opulence  and  splendor  of  the  American  Tyre,  the  other  extremity  sees 
towns  rising  among  Indian  wigwams,  along  the  shores  of  the  vast 
lakes,  and  on  one  of  the  noblest  and  at  the  same  time  wildest  streams  of 
the  globe.  New  York  is  an  epitome  of  all  configurations  of  surface,  all 
varieties  of  lake  and  river  scenery,  and  all  conditions  of  man,  from  the 
sumptuous  dwellers  of  Pearl  street  to  the  emigrant  daubing  his  log  cabin 
with  clay.  Granite,  slate,  and  lime  stone  hills,  charming  vallies,  extensive 
plains  of  gently  rolling  surface,  rugged  elevations  and  lofty  mountains 
alternate  with  streams,  cascades,  ponds,  and  beautiful  lakes  of  all  dimen- 
sions, from  the  calm  and  transparent  amenity  of  Skeneateles,  to  the  inland 
seas  of  Erie  and  Ontario. 

Islands . Long  Island  is,  as  its  name  imports,  a long  but  narrow 
island,  extending  east  from  the  city  of  New  York  150  miles,  forming  a 
curve  parallel  to  the  mainland  shore,  and  leaving  a broad  and  beautiful 
sheet  of  water,  not  unlike  a wide  river  between,  called  Long  Island 
Sound.  It  contains  3 counties.  The  south  border  is  a long  belt  of 
sand.  The  northern  has  a good  soil.  Its  chief  towns  are  Brooklyn,* 
Jamaica,  Sagharbor  and  Flatbush.  Staten  island  is  18  miles  long,  and 
from  5 to  8 broad,  and  is  separated  from  Long  Island  by  the  Narrows, 
and  from  New  Jersey  by  a strait,  called  Staten  Island  Sound.  Manhatan 
Island,  on  which  the  city  of  New  York  stands,  has  already  been  de- 
scribed. 

In  the  maritime  belt  of  the  state  the  soil  is  sandy;  in  the  middle 
charmingly  undulating;  and  in  the  western  and  southern  divisions  re- 
markable level,  rich,  and  inclining  to  alluvial  formation.  The  state  has 
a great  proportion  of  first  rat^  land.  The  richest  lands  are  on  the 
Mohawk,  the  Chenango,  Genessee  and  Black  rivers  ; between  Seneca 
and  Cayuga  lakes,  and  generally  the  western  parts  of  the  state. 

Mountains.  Cattskill,  and  Cattsberg  mountains  belong  to  the  con- 
formation of  the  Green  Mountains ; and  may  be  considered  the  connect- 
ing ridges  between  them  and  the  Alleghanies. 

Rivers  and  Lakes.  The  Delaware  rises  in  this  state  among  the 
Cattskill  Mountains,  and  pursues  a southern  course  to  Pennsylvania. 
The  Hudson  is  a noble  river,  whose  whole  course  is  in  this  state.  It  rises 
in  the  heights  between  lake  Champlain  and  St.  Lawrence,  and  pursuing 
a generally  southern  course  between  3 and  400  miles,  meets  the  tide 
more  than  150  miles  from  it  mouth.  It  empties  into  New  York  Bay,  and 


46 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


is  navigable  for  ships  as  high  as  Hudson,  130  miles  above  New  York; 
and  for  sloops  to  Albany  and  Troy  25  or  30  miles  farther.  Niagara 
River,  which  has  already  been  described,  as  one  of  the  largest  and  most 
interesting  rivers  in  the  world,  forms  a part  of  the  northern  boundary  of 
the  state. 

The  Mohawk,  a principal  branch  of  the  Hudson,  rises  north  of  Utica, 
and  after  a course  of  more  than  100  miles  in  a rich  alluvial  valley,  joins, 
the  Hudson  near  Lansingburg.  Genessee,  Oswego  and  Black  are  impor- 
tant rivers,  that  rise  in  the  interior  of  the  state,  and  fall  into  lake  Ontario. 
Seneca  is  the  outlet  of  the  small  beautiful  lakes,  which  we  meet  in  ad- 
vancing towards  the  great  northern  chain.  Oswegatchie,  Grass,  Racket 
and  St.  Regis,  discharge  into  the  St.  Lawrence  Cataraugus  Creek  is  a 
river  of  lake  Champlain.  The  Susquehannah  rises  in  this  state,  and  passes 
into  Pennsylvania.  The  Alleghany  of  the  Ohio  collects  its  head  waters 
in  the  southwest  angle  of  this  state,  and  passes  through  its  noble  pine  for- 
ests into  Pennsylvania.  The  Tioga  and  Chenango  fall  into  the  Susque- 
hannah. The  Tonnewanta  is  a stream  made  subsidiary  to  the  great 
northern  canah  Beside  these,  there  are  50  streams  that  would  be  con- 
spicuous in  a state  of  smaller  dimensions,  and  where  the  configuration  was 
on  a less  gigantic  scale. 

We  have  mentioned  Champlain,  Ontario  and  Erie,  the  great  lakes,  that 
bound  this,  state  on  the  north.  Lake  George  is  a most  romantic  and 
beautiful  sheet  of  water,  37  miles  long,  and  from  one  tq  7 broad,  pure, 
transparent,  full  of  fish,  and  dotted  witR  islands,  having  for  the  outer 
rim  of  its  basin  a line  of  lofty  mountains  bounding  its  whole  extent.  Lake 
Canandaigua  is  15  miles  long  by  one  broad.  Seneca  is  35  miles  long 
by  an  average  of  one  and  a half  to  3 broad.  Crooked  lake  is  20  miles  by  a 
mile  and  a quarter . Cayuga  lake  is  36  miles  long  by  one  and  a half  broad. 
Owasco  lake  is  1 1 miles  long  and  one  broad.  Skeneateles,  affording 
scenery  of  exquisite  beauty,  is  14  miles  long  by  one  broad.  Onondaga 
is  9 miles  long  by  one  broad.  There  are  great  numbers  of  smaller  ones. 
These  charming  sheets  of  water  spread’  in  a general  direction  from  north 
to  south.  They  abound  in  fine  fish,  and  no  summer  scenery  can  surpass 
that  of  this  lake  country  in  beauty.  The  ancients  would  have  peopled 
every  one  of  them  with  Naiads  and  nymphs.  Still  more;  they  are  nav^ 
igable,  and  already  connected  by  lateral  cuts  some  of  many  miles  in 
length,  with  the  great  New  York  canal. 

Canals.  This  state  has  taken  precedence  of  all  others  in  the  number 
and  extent  of  its  canals,  and  the  immense  distances  brought  by  them  into 
water  communication.  The  Champlain  and  Hudson  Canal  connects  Lake 
Champlain  with  Hudson  River,  and  is  sixty- four  miles  in  length,  The 
Hudson  and  Erie  Canal  connects  Lake  Erie  with  Hudson  River,  and  is 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


47 


three  hundred  and  sixty-two  miles  in  length.  The  Hudson  and  Delaware 
Canal  leaves  the  Hudson  at  Kingston,  and  is  continued  to  the  Dela- 
ware in  Pennsylvania,  and  along  that  river  seventeen  miles  up  the 
Lacka waxen,  to  the  coal  mines  in  Wayne  county,  Pennsylvania,  and  is 
64  miles  in  length.  Morris  Canal  commences  at  the  mouth  of  the  Hud- 
son, opposite  New  York,  passes  through  the  state  of  New  Jersey  to  the 
Delaware  opposite  Easton  in  Pennsylvania,  where  it  connects  with  the 
Lehigh,  and  opens  a passage  for  the  Lehigh  coal  to  New  York.  The 
Oswego  Canal  leaves  the  Grand  Canal  at  Syracuse,  and  connects  that 
canal  with  Lake  Ontario,  by  a side  cut  38  miles  in  length.  The  whole 
interior  chain  of  the  smaller  lakes  that  have  been  mentioned,  is  by  different 
contrivances  connected  by  water  communication  with  the  Grand  Canal. 

Watering  Places , Mineral  Waters.  Those  of  Saratoga  and  Ballston 
are  most  visited  of  any  in  the  United  States.  The  Ballston  Springs  are 
situated  in  a valley  formed  by  a small  creek.  There  are  a great  number 
of  springs,  the  strongest  and  most  sparkling  waters  of  which  were  obtained 
in  1827,  by  boring  227  feet  deep*  The  principal  efficacy  of  the  water 
consists  in  a chemical  union  of  chalybeate  and  saline  properties,  held  in 
solution,  and  rendered  brisk  and  pungent  by  uncommon  quantities  of 
carbonic  acid  gas. 

Saratoga  Springs  are  7 miles  from  Ballston.  The  most  frequented 
springs  here  are  called  Congress  Spring  and  Flat  Rock  Spring.  A large 
and  compact  village  has  grown  up  at  Saratoga  in  consequence  of  the 
immense  summer  resort  to  these  places  from  all  parts  of  the  United  States, 
the  West  Indies  and  Canada.  There  are  many  noble  hotels  and  board- 
ing houses  at  both  places.  The  opulent,  the  young,  beautiful  and  gay 
repair  to  them  in  the  summer,  because  fashion  has  prescribed  the  indis- 
pensable necessity  of  frequently  making  summer  excursions  to  these 
waters.  Fifty  coaches  often  arrive^  during  the  season  of  the  waters,  in  a 
day.  Balls,  parties,  concerts  and  excursions  are  the  modes  of  passing 
the  time.  During  the  same  period  the  feeble,  nervous,  exhausted  sub- 
jects of  violation  of  the  laws  of  our  nature,  the  sick,  and  the  dying  come 
here  and  are  seen  about  the  springs,  exhibiting  one  of  the  most  affecting 
contrasts  of  young,  gay,  and  unthinking  fashionables  with  the  decaying 
remnants  of  humanity,  that  can  any  where  be  seen.  Saratoga  Springs 
are  32  miles  N.  of  Albany,  and  Ballston  28  miles  N.  of  the  same  place. 
New  Lebanon  Springs,  29  miles  E.  of  Albany,  are  visited  for  bathing,  for 
their  cool  and  elevated  position,  and  the  grand  and  romantic  scenery  of 
the  Green  Mountains,  on  the  western  declivity  of  which  they  are  situated. 
Here  also  crowds  of  fashionables  resort,  during  the  sultry  months;  and 
there  are  excellent  arrangements  for  their  accommodation  and  comfort. 

Curiosities . Would  our  limits  allow,  a volume  might  be  given  under 
this  head.  From  New  York  to  Niagara  the  whole  distance  along  North 


48 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


River,  up  the  canal,  and  thence  to  the  lakes,  is  the  land  of  ffiotmtaingf 
lakes,  caverns,  cascades,  and  scenes  of  moral  interest,  as  consecrated  to 
memory,  and  identified  with  impressive  events  in  history.  Niagara  Falls, 
the  noblest  cascade  in  the  world,  we  have  already  described.  Cohoes  is 
a fine  fall  in  the  Mohawk  of  70  feet  perpendicular  descent.  The  cascade 
is  situated  near  the  stage  route  from  Albany  to  Schenectady.  The  Little 
Falls  of  the  Mohawk,  in  view  of  which  the  great  canal  runs,  present  most 
beautiful  scenery.  Glen’s  Falls  of  the  Hudson,  and  the  falls  on  Genesee 
and  Salmon  River  furnish  a very  impressive  cascade.  These  and  many 
other  cascades  in  this  country  of  great  rivers  and  frequent  lakes  would  be 
grand  spectacles,  had  not  most  of  the  spectators  witnessed  Niagara  Falls, 
a scene  to  efface  the  interest  of  all  minor  spectacles.  A lime  stone  cav- 
ern of  vast  dimensions,  with  its  falls,  columns,  and  stalactites,  exists  on 
the  banks  of  Black  River,  opposite  Watertown. 

Productions.  The  forest  trees  that  love  an  alluvial  soil,  are  common 
in  the  western  divisions  of  the  state,  and  attain  a great  size.  Beside  the 
grains  cultivated  in  the  states  east  of  this,  wheat  is  the  staple  of  NeW 
York.  Genesee  dour,  unknown  before  the  existence  of  the  great  canal, 
in  New  England,  is  now  the  flour  of  general  consumption  there.  It  is  a 
fine  country  for  grass,  pasture,  fruits,  maize,  and  all  the  productions  of 
the  northern  states.  Among  the  mineral  products  are  iron  and  lead  ofes 
in  different  places;  gypsum,  lime  stone,  marble,  slate,  porcelain  clay,  and 
most  of  the  fossils.  The  richest  salt  springs  existing  in  any  country  are 
found  in  various  places,  particularly  at  Salina.  Petroleum  is  found  in 
different  places,  and  springs  of  hydrogen  gas. 

Exports — Of  articles  too  numerous  to  particularize,  amounted,  in  1828 
to  $22,777,649. 

Climate.  In  a country  of  such  extent  no  general  view  can  be  given. 
The  northern  division  has  a severe  climate.  The  lake  division  has  a 
more  uniform  temperature,  with  deep  snows.  The  maritime  part  has  a 
milder  air  than  New  England.  The  S.  W.  division  of  the  state  is  also 
comparatively  mild. 

Natives.  Onondaga  was  the  central  region,  round  which,  in  the  forest 
periods,  the  famous  Five  Nations  were  congregated.  A remnant  of  these 
races  still  exists,  possessing  extensive  reservations  of  land.  The  specta- 
cle of  the  red  people  in  their  forest  costume,  is  even  yet  not  an  uncommon 
one  in  Albany,  and  still  less  so  in  Rochester. 

Chief  Towns.  But  a sketch  only  of  this  extensive  article  can  be  given. 
New  York,  the  most  populous  city  in  the  Union,  and  the  mercantile  capi- 
tal of  the  United  States,  is  situated  on  Manhattan  Island,  14£  miles  long 
and  from  two  miles  to  half  a mile  broad,  at  the  confluence  of  Hudson 
and  East  Rivers,  on  a bay  of  unrivalled  beauty.  The  harbor  is  extensive, 


ATLANTIC  STATES, 


49 


deep,  safe,  not  subject  to  be  frozen,  and  lias  every  requisite  for  commercial 
facility  and  advantages  that  could  be  desired.  It  embosoms  several 
islands,  among  tvhich  the  conspicuous  ones,  Governor’s,  Bedlow’s,  and 
Ellis’  are  fortified,  and  bristled  with  numerous  cannon.  On  the  E.  it  is 
defended  from  storms  by  Long  Island,  and  on  the  W.  by  Staten  Island 
and  New  Jersey  shore.  The  ship  passage  from  the  harbor  to  Newark 
Bay,  on  the  New  Jersey  side,  is  by  the  Kills , to  the  Atlantic  by  the  Nar- 
rows, and  by  Long  Island  Sound.  The  shipping  owned  here,  in  1816, 
amounted  to  nearly  300,000  tons.  In  1829  it  was  355,534  tons.  The 
duties  on  goods  imported  here  have  ranged  in  common  years  from  seven  to 
eight  millions  of  dollars. 

The  appearance  of  the  city  of  New  York  is  unique.  There  is  a visible 
cast  of  mercantile  opulence,  and  an  aspect  rather  more  sombre  than  in 
the  gay  and  uniform  streets  of  Philadelphia.  There  is,  however,  nothing 
in  the  United  States  to  compare  with  the  imposing  effect  of  Broadway,  a 
street  nearly  bisecting  the  city,  and  extending  to  the  central  and  higher 
parts  of  it  from  one  extremity  to  the  other;  being  3 miles  in  length,  80 
feet  wide,  and  generally  built  up  with  massive  and  noble  buildings. 
Next  to  this  in  beauty  and  importance  are  Wall  street,  Pearl  street,  Green- 
wich street,  Water  street,  and  the  Bowery. 

The  public  buildings  exceed  50  in  number,  and  in  magnificence  those 
of  any  other  American  city.  The  mercantile  public  buildings  are  chiefly 
on  Wall  street,  the  centre  of  banking  and  brokerage  business.  Pearl 
street  contains  the  most  important  mercantile  establishments.  Broadway 
is  the  chief  street  for  retail  business.  Mean  wooden  habitations,  for- 
merly common  in  the  city  have  almost  disappeared,  giving  place  to  spa- 
cious and  massive  brick  buildings.  The  Battery  is  an  extensive  public 
ground  in  the  southern  part  of  the  island.  Castle  Garden  is  a much 
frequented  public  resort.  The  Park  is  a beautiful  common  in  front  of 
the  City  Hall,  containing  6 acres,  and  is  finely  shaded  with  trees.  We 
have  space  only  to  glance  at  some  of  the  most  conspicuous  public  build- 
ings and  objects  of  interest.  The  most  striking  of  these  in  the  most 
showy  part  of  the  city  is  City  Hall  of  white  marble,  216  feet  in  length, 
by  105  in  breadth.  It  is  in  an  open  square,  detached,  and  in  a position 
to  give  its  imposing  aspect  full  effect.  It  contains  the  police  office  and 
municipal  court-rooms,  and  the  Common  Council  chamber  ornamented 
with  portraits  of  distinguished  revolutionary  characters.  The  New  York 
Exchange,  fronting  Wall  street,  between  William  and  Pearl  streets,  is 
also  of  white  marble.  It  is  adorned  with  marble  columns  in  front,  of  a 
single  block,  and  contains  the  Exchange,  Post  Office,  Commercial  Read- 
ing Rooms,  insurance  offices,  and  offices  of  daily  papers.  The  cupola 
commands  a noble  view  of  the  city,  and  is  surmounted  with  a telegraph, 
Vol.  II.  7 


50 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


by  which  ship  arrivals  are  announced  at  the  distance  of  more  than  30 
miles  from  the  city. 

The  New  York  Institution  is  of  brick,  260  feet  by  44,  and  is  appro- 
priated to  associations  of  literature  and  the  fine  arts,  such  as  the  literary 
and  Philosophical  Society,  the  Historical  Society  with  its  library,  the 
American  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  with  its  paintings,  the  New  York 
Lyceum  of  Natural  History  with  its  collections,  and  the  American 
Museum  with  its  curiosities.  The  University  is  in  a central  point.  The 
building  is  of  stone  200  feet  in  length,  and  3 stories  high.  The  state 
prison  in  the  eastern  part  of  the  city,  is  204  feet  in  length,  by  200  in 
depth,  and  is  built  of  free  stone.  The  alms  house  is  still  further  east. 
It  is  an  enclosure  containing  the  work  house  and  penitentiary.  The 
dimensions  of  the  first  are  320  by  50  feet,  the  next  200  by  25,  and  the 
third  250  by  50.  Chatham  Theatre  and  the  Bowery  Theatre  are  con- 
spicuous buildings.  St.  Paul’s  church,  containing  the  monument  and 
remains  of  Gen.  Montgomery,  and  Trinity  Church  are  spacious  episco- 
palian churches,  both  in  conspicuous  points  on  Broadway.  St.  John’s 
church  in  Hudson  Square,  one  of  the  finest  in  the  city , has  the  tallest  spire 
in  New  York.  The  Medical  College  is  a large  and  conspicuous  edifice. 
The  establishment  is  amply  endowed,  and  generally  contains  from  2 to 
300  medical  students.  The  following  are  all  spacious  public  buildings : 
Clinton  Hall,  the  Bible  Society’s  Depositary,  the  American  Tract  Society’s 
buildings,  both  in  Nassau  street,  the  Arcade,  and  the  Arcade  Baths,  the 
New  York  Baths,,  the  Public  Marine  Bath,  the  Manhattan  Water  Works, 
the  exhibition  room  of  the  National  Academy  of  the  arts  of  Design, 
Rutger’s  Medical  College  and  Public  School,  Masonic  Hall,  Orphan 
Asylum,  Fever  Hospital,  House  of  Refuge  for  juvenile  delinquents. 
Lunatic  Asylum,  the  City  Hotel,  the  Mansion  House,  the  National 
Hotel,  the  Franklin  House,  Tammany  Hall,  and  many  other  spacious 
hotels.  The  city  has  10  market  houses,  14  or  15  banks, between  20  and 
30  insurance  offices,  over  100  houses  of  public  worship,  of  which  those 
of  Episcopalians,  Presbyterians,  Dutch  Reformed  and  Methodists  are  the 
most  numerous.  There  are  8 spacious  buildings  appropriated  to  public 
schools,  valued  with  their  furniture  at  $150,000.  The  High  School  of 
this  city  is  an  interesting  institution,  and  the  largest  establishment  of  the 
kind  in  the  United  States.  There  are  a number  of  public  libraries.  The 
Sunday  Schools  and  Infant  Schools  are  efficient  and  useful  establish- 
ments. 

As  this  is  by  far  the  largest  importing  town  in  the  United  States,  the 
stores  of  course  display  the  greatest  show  of  splendid  foreign  and  domes- 
tic goods  of  every  description.  Fashion  and  splendour  and  sumptuous- 
ness,  and  all  the  inventions  of  luxury,  and  all  the  enticements  to  specta- 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


51 


des,  and  all  the  temptations  to  dissipation  naturally  concentrate,  where 
there  is  most  commerce  and  wealth,  and  the  most  numerous  concourse 
of  people.  The  fair  and  the  fashionable  promenade  Broadway,  to  see, 
and  be  seen ; and  here  fashion  may  be  noted  in  its  broadest  visible  as- 
sumption, its  most  hideous  distortions,  and  its  most  painful  imprisonment; 
and  by  watching  the  passing  current  of  life  on  fine  days  for  promenading, 
quiet,  sensible  and  reflecting  young  persons  cannot  fail  to  receive  lessons 
adverse  to  affectation,  grimace,  and  the  extremes  of  the  prevalent  mode 
of  the  week.  * 

Such  successive  masses  of  immigrants  are  constantly  arriving  from 
foreign  countries,  and  such  multitudes  of  adventurers  of  all  descriptions 
consort  here,  and  great  cities  always  congregate  such  numbers  of  poor  and 
abandoned  people,  that  it  cannot  but  be  understood,  that  there  must  be 
much  immorality  and  dissipation.  Commensurate  efforts  are  made  to 
neutralize  and  heal  the  evil.  The  religious,  moral,  and  humane  institu- 
tions are  numerous,  and  of  the  most  active  and  energetic  character.  It 
issues  a great  number  of  respectable  periodical  publications.  New  York 
is  situated  210  miles  S.  W.  of  Boston,  90  N.  E.  of  Philadelphia,  and  227 
N.  E.  of  Washington — 40°  43'  N.  L.  Population  in  1820,  123,706. 
In  1830,  213,470. 

Albany,  the  political  metropolis,  is  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
Hudson,  150  miles  from  New  York,  and  has  a position  equally  convenient 
for  communication  with  that  city,  and  a vast  interior  country.  Most  of 
the  ancient  Dutch  buildings,  which  formerly  gave  it  such  a grotesque 
aspect,  have  disappeared.  It  is  now  neatly  and  in  some  parts  handsomely 
built.  It  contains  10  public  buildings.  The  capitol,  built  upon  the 
upper  portion  of  the  city,  has  an  elevated  position.  It  is  115  feet  in 
length,  and  90  in  breadth.  The  academy,  directly  north  of  it,  is  a spa- 
cious and  showy  building.  The  Farmer’s  and  Mechanic’s  Bank  and  the 
Albany  Bank,  at  the  bottom  of  State  street,  are  of  white  marble.  The 
Museum  is  a handsome  building  in  South  Market  street.  State  street,  in 
its  whole  length,  is  remarkably  wide,  and  shows  to  great  advantage. 
The  number  of  churches  is  16,  of  which  6 are  of  stone,  7 of  brick,  and 
3 of  wood.  Three  of  them  are  very  handsome,  and  others  are  spacious. 
Canal  Wharf  and  quay  are  of  great  length,  and  striking  show  of  business 
and  bustle.  Few  cities  present  a more  beautiful  prospect  than  Albany, 
when  seen  from  the  public  square,  or  the  summit  of  the  capitol.  The 
city  slopes  from  the  public  square  to  the  river,  like  the  sides  of  an  amphi- 
theatre. Two  or  three  of  its  noble  mansions  embowered  in  trees,  give  it 
the  appearance  of  having  forests  in  its  limits.  Sloops  and  steam  boats 
arrive  here  from  New  York  in  great  numbers,  and  there  is  seldom  a day  in 
which  three  or  four  passages  do  not  offer,  in  steam  boats  departing  to  and 


52 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


from  New  York.  Its  canal  communications  with  Lake  Champlain,  the 
northern  lakes,  and  the  Ohio  valley  give  it  unrivalled  advantages  of  this 
sort.  More  stages  daily  arrive  and  depart  from  this  city,  than  any  other 
of  the  size  in  the  Union.  Its  literary,  humane,  and  religious  institutions 
are  of  a very  respectable  class,  and  it  issues  6 or  7 periodical  publications. 
It  is  situated  164  miles  W.  of  Boston,  and  230  S.  of  Montreal.  Its  pop- 
ulation in  1820  was  12,630.  In  1830,  24,216,  having  nearly  doubled 
its  population  in  ten  years.  A more  emphatic  illustration  of  the  tendency 
of  the  canal  system  could  not  be  given. 

Rochester,  at  the  falls  of  Genessee,  7 miles  from  Lake  Ontario,  is  the 
third  town  in  point  of  population  in  this  state,  and  has  had  the  most  sud- 
den growth  of  any  town  in  America.  In  1812  it  was  one  wide  and  deep 
forest.  In  1818  it  contained  1,049.  In  1820, 1,502.  In  1825,  5,271. 
In  1827,  10,818.  In  1830,  13,836.  Parts  of  the  town  are  very  hand- 
somely built.  There  are  7 respectable  public  buildings  and  12  churches. 
Thirteen  large  flour  mills  with  52  run  of  stones  can  annually  make 
342,000  barrels  of  flour.  Fifteen  million  feet  of  lumber  are  sawed  or 
rafted  here.  There  are  a number  of  factories  and  mechanical  establish- 
ments, some  on  a large  scale.  The  water  power  is  almost  inexhaustible. 
The  acqueduct  over  the  Genessee  at  this  place  is  one  of  the  most  gigantic 
works  on  the  canal  line.  At  the  northern  extremity  of  the  town  the 
Genessee  falls  90  feet.  At  Carthage,  two  miles  distant,  it  falls  70  feet. 
Still  another  noble  cascade  of  the  Genessee  close  by  this  town  will  be 
long  remembered  as  the  place  where  the  famous  Patch  made  his  last  leap. 
Merchandise  to  and  from  Lake  Ontario  forwarded  from  this  town  is  raised 
or  lowered  down  this  great  and  steep  descent  of  the  Genessee  by  means  of 
an  inclined  plane,  the  descending  weight  raising  a lighter  one.  It  is  in 
contemplation  to  cut  a canal  from  this  town  to  Olean  on  the  Alleghany, 
a distance  of  110  miles,  which  would  bring  this  place  in  direct  water 
communication  with  Pittsburgh  and  the  Ohio. 

Troy,  on  the  E.  bank  of  the  Hudson,  6 miles  N.  of  Albany,  and  156 
N.  of  New  York,  is  the  next  largest  city  in  the  state  to  Rochester. 
Sloops  and  steam  boats  navigate  the  Hudson  to  this  place.  In  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  are  many  fine  mill  seats,  on  which  are  erected  extensive 
manufactories.  It  contains  7 public  buildings,  and  6 houses  for  public 
worship.  The  state  of  Massachusetts  has  surveyed  a canal  route  to  this 
place.  A rail  road  over  the  same  route  has  also  been  in  contemplation. 
The  Van  Rensselaer  school  in  this  city  has  acquired  a high  reputation. 
The  students  deliver  mutual  lectures,  and  make  extensive  excursions, 
with  a view  to  personal  inspection  of  the  objects  of  their  studies  in  the 
natural  sciences.  Any  person  over  18,  certifying  that  his  acquisitions 
are  of  a certain  extent,  and  that  he  is  of  good  moral  character,  can  obtain 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


53 


a gratuitous  education.  An  academy  for  young  ladies  conducted  by  Mrs. 
Willard,  has  also  obtained  advantageous  notoriety.  Mount  Ida,  a ro- 
mantic hill  near  this  place,  gives  rise  to  the  water  falls  of  Poesten’s  Kill 
and  Wynant’s  Kill,  where  the  chief  manufacturing  establishments  are 
erected.  Population  in  1820,  5,294.  In  1830,  11,405.  This  shows  a 
gain  of  considerably  more  than  double  the  population  of  the  preceding 
census. 

Schenectady  is  situated  on  the  S.  E.  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  15  miles  N. 
W.  of  Albany.  It  contains  a number  of  public  buildings,  and  5 or  6 
churches.  It  is  an  ancient  and  respectable  town,  and  is  united  to  the 
opposite  bank  of  the  Mohawk  by  an  elegant  bridge,  nearly  1,000  feet  in 
length.  Union  College  in  this  place,  is  one  of  the  most  respectable 
seminaries  in  the  state.  The  building  consists  of  two  college  edifices 
and  two  boarding  houses.  The  college  is  opulent  in  endowments,  and  in 
1828, 79  students  graduated  from  this  institution.  Population  supposed 
to  be  about  5,000. 

Utica  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Mohawk,  93  miles  N.  W.  from 
Albany,  and  nearly  bisected  by  the  great  canal.  It  is  a large  and  showy 
town,  with  the  usual  number  of  public  buildings,  and  8 churches.  It  is 
on  the  position  of  the  once  celebrated  Fort  Schuyler,  and  in  the  midst  of 
a fertile  and  charming  country,  It  is  a noted  point  of  union  for  arriving 
and  departing  stages.  This  town  has  gained  its  importance  by  being 
favorably  situated,  in  regard  to  commerce  and  agricultural  wealth.  Pop- 
ulation in  1820,  2,972.  In  1830,  8,323,  having  almost  tripled  its  popu- 
lation since  the  last  census. 

Buffalo  is  situated  at  the  eastern  extremity  of  Lake  Erie,  on  Buffalo 
Creek.  The  harbor  would  be  fine,  but  for  a shoal  at  the  mouth,  which 
the  United  States’  government  are  in  progress  of  removing.  This  obsta 
cle  overcome,  it  has  14  feet  water,  and  is  secure  from  storms.  From  60 
to  70  vessels,  including  steam  boats,  trade  with  this  place.  It  is  the  grand 
point  of  communication  between  the  Atlantic  and  the  lakes.  By  the 
great  canal  it  communicates  with  New  York;  by  the  Welland  and  Rideau 
Canals  with  Lake  Ontario  and  Montreal;  and  by  Lake  Erie  and  the  Erie 
and  Ohio  Canal  with  the  Ohio  and  Mississippi  valley.  Its  business  is 
direct  with  all  the  vast  extent  of  the  upper  lakes,  and  no  inland  town  in 
America  has  greater  advantages.  It  is  situated  on  a beautiful  terrace 
plain,  affording  charming  views  of  the  lake,  and  is  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
pleasant  and  fertile  country.  Atlantic  strangers,  who  have  connected 
associations  of  savage  nature,  and  a remote  interior  wilderness  with  their 
notions  of  this  place,  will  be  sufficiently  astonished  on  arriving  here,  to 
see  sumptuous  houses,  massive  blocks  of  brick  buildings,  one  of  the  most 
beautiful  hotels  in  the  country,  a number  of  handsome  churches,  and  two 


54 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


or  three  of  imposing  appearance  and  magnitude.  It  was  destroyed  by 
the  British  in  the  late  war  so  completely,  that  but  one  house  was  left 
standing  in  1814.  One  of  the  stores  is  90  by  70  feet,  and  3 stories  high. 
In  a word,  Buffalo  is  one  of  the  handsomest  towns  in  the  state.  It  has 
the  customary  public  buildings,  and  6 or  7 churches.  Population  in 
1820,2095;  in  1830,  8,668,  having  more  than  quadrupled  its  popula- 
tion since  the  last  census. 

Manlius,  an  interior  town  of  Onondaga  county,  137  miles  west  of 
Albany,  is  an  agricultural  but  very  flourishing  place.  Population  in 
1820,  5,372.  In  1830,  7,375.  Seneca  is  on  the  west  side  of  Seneca  Lake 
192  miles  west  of  Albany.  The  flourishing  village  of  Geneva  is  in  this 
township.  The  shore  of  the  lake  abounds  in  beautifully  variegated  mar- 
ble. The  lake  is  of  uncommon  depth  and  transparency,  and  the  waters 
exceedingly  cold.  It  is  affirmed  that  the  lake  has  a regular  rise  and  fall 
every  seven  years.  This  flourishing  town  contains  6,161  inhabitants. 

Returning  to  the  maritime  shore  of  the  state,  Brooklyn  on  Long  Island 
is  separated  from  New  York  by  East  river.  It  is  a large  and  flourishing 
place,  being  in  fact  no  other  than  a suburb  of  the  city.  It  contains  some 
public  buildings,  and  four  houses  of  public  worship;  and  near  it  is  the 
United  States  navy  yard.  Population  in  1830,  12,403.  Hudson  is  a 
considerable  mercantile  place,  with  growing  manufacturing  establishments 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Hudson,  28  miles  below  Albany.  Population 
about  4000.  Newburg  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hudson,  59  miles  above 
New  York  and  just  above  the  highlands  is  a great  thoroughfare  of  travel 
to  the  western  country  and  a large  and  handsome  town.  Poughkeepsie, 
Kingston  and  Cattskill,  are  also  considerable  towns.  Lansingburg  4 
miles  above  Troy,  and  opposite  the  mouth  of  the  Mohawk,  is  a thriving 
place.  Waterford  is  immediately  opposite,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Hud- 
son. It  has  wide,  regular  and  handsome  streets.  Gibbonville  opposite 
Troy,  is  the  seat  of  the  United  States  arsenal  The  arms  are  in  fine 
order  and  the  grounds  of  great  neatness  and  beauty. 

Auburn  not  far  from  the  northern  extremity  of  Owasco  Lake,  and 
170  west  of  Albany,  is  a romantic  and  beautiful  town.  It  contains  a 
number  of  public  buildings,  and  4 or  5 houses  of  public  worship.  It  is 
the  seat  of  a respectable  theological  seminary,  and  is  best  known,  as  be- 
ing the  position  of  the  most  extensive  penitentiary  in  the  United  States. 
The  two  great  buildings  are  enclosed  in  a hollow  square  2,000  feet  in 
circuit,  surrounded  with  a stone  wall  of  great  strength  35  feet  high.  The 
work  shops  form  a continued  range  bof  940  feet.  The  construction 
and  plan  of  discipline  are  of  a new  and  generally  approved  character. 
Every  conceivable  regard  is  had  to  the  moral  improvement,  as  well  as  the 
comfort  and  security  of  the  convicts.  It  is  calculated  to  contain  1,100 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


55 


convicts.  In  1829  in  contained  G39.  Population  in  1,820,  2025.  In 
1830,  7103.  Ithaca  contains  5,270  inhabitants;  Canandaigua  in  the 
whole  township  5,162;  Schoharie  5,146.  Salina,  Syracuse  and  Lock- 
port  are  large  and  flourishing  villages.  Plasttsburgh,  Ogdensburg, 
Sackett’s  Harbor,  Brownsville,  Le  Boy,  Watertown  and  Batavia,  are 
flourishing  places.  This  article  might  be  extended  to  the  mention  of 
50  other  considerable  villages,  of  which  the  forementioned  may  stand 
as  indexes,  in  point  of  neatness  and  importance. 

Scenery.  The  great  thoroughfare  of  travellers  for  business  or  pleasure 
from  New  York  to  Niagara  and  the  lakes,  abounds  at  every  stage  with 
interesting  scenery.  Scarcely  has  the  traveller  been  wafted  out  of  New 
York  bay,  one  of  the  most  beautiful  in  the  world,  before  he  has  in  view 
the  noble  elevation  of  the  highlands.  Every  point  along  this  sublime 
passage  has  its  tradition  attached  to  it,  or  its  connection  in  memory  with 
revolutionary  events.  At  one  place  the  traveller  is  shown,  where  Andre 
was  taken;  at  another,  where  he  was  executed.  Still  further  up,  perched 
on  the  declivity  of  a mountain,  are  the  numerous  buildings  belonging  to 
the  establishment  of  West  Point.  Higher  still  are  the  Cattskill  moun- 
tains rising  into  the  blue  of  the  sky.  The  Pine  Orchard  is  between 
2 and  3,000  feet  above  the  river,  at  some  miles  distance  from  it,  and 
is  provided  with  a house  of  entertainment.  The  round  top  is  the  highest 
elevation  of  the  Cattskill,  being  3,718  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

In  passing  from  Albany  to  Schenectady  we  are  presented  with  one  of 
those  works  of  art,  which  is  still  a rare  object  in  our  country,  the  Albany 
and  Schenectady  rail  road,  upon  which  a locomotive  steam  engine  is  in 
operation.  Passing  through  the  village  of  Ballston  and  Saratoga,  at 
some  miles  distant  from  Saratoga,  and  near  Hudson’s  Biver,  we  find  our- 
selves on  one  of  the  most  interesting  spots  identified  with  the  history  of 
the  American  revolution,  the  place,  where  Burgoyne  surrendered  his 
army.  Crossing  over  to  Lake  Champlain  we  are  arrested  by  the  remains 
of  the  fortress  of  Ticonderoga,  where  Gen.  Abercrombie  was  defeated  in 
1758;  a spot  as  famous  in  the  history  of  the  former  French  war,  as  Sar- 
atoga is  in  that  of  the  revolution.  Plattsburgh  and  Lake  Champlain  are 
both  famous  in  the  history  of  the  late  war.  In  fact,  the  whole  distance 
from  Lake  Champlain  to  Lake  Erie,  along  the  line  of  the  canal,  is  con- 
secrated to  remembrances  in  the  history  of  the  Indian,  French,  revolu- 
tionary and  late  wars.  As  we  ascend  toward  the  lakes,  we  pass  the 
Cohoes,  the  Little  Falls,  Glen’s  Falls,  and  the  very  extensive  salt  works 
at  Salina.  At  Lockport  we  stand  astonished,  as  we  contemplate  one  of 
the  noblest  works  of  art  on  the  canal,  and  look  up  the  prodigious  height, 
to  which  boats  are  raised  hy  the  double  line  of  locks ; and  are  scarcely 
less  impressed  with  the  sight  of  the  town  itself,  which  but  a few  years 


56 


ATLANTIC  STATER. 


since  was  a solid  wilderness,  and  now  is  a handsome  town,  containing 
four  or  five  thousand  inhabitants.  The  locks  at  this  place,  and  the  deep 
cut  through  the  solid  limestone  strike  the  observer  as  a more  stupendous 
work,  than  either  the  canal  aqueduct  across  the  Mohawk  or  the  Ge- 
nessee. 

Trenton  Falls  are  in  the  town  of  Trenton,  Oneida  county,  108  miles  N. 
W.  of  Albany,  and  12  miles  north  of  Utica.  The  cascade  is  2 miles 
from  the  village.  The  surrounding  scenery  is  remarkable  for  its  roman- 
tic beauty  and  grandeur.  Petrifactions,  and  organic  remains  are  abun- 
dantly imbedded  in  the  limestone  bluffs.  West  Canada  creek  has  here 
cut  itself  a prodigious  chasm  through  the  rocks,  in  many  places  150 
feet  deep,  and  for  a distance  of  4 miles;  the  whole  extent  of  which 
is  a succession  of  striking  cataracts.  This  interesting  chasm  is  much 
visited,  and  presents  a spectacle  not  unlike  that  of  many  of  the  rivers  of 
Tennessee  and  Kentucky,  in  their  passage  through  their  deep  beds  of 
limestone. 

Whether  the  traveller  contemplate  the  prodigious  work  of  art  presented 
in  this  long  canal,  or  the  astonishing  growth  of  the  new  and  beautiful 
towns  along  its  banks,  that  have  replaced  the  recent  solid  wilderness, 
whether  he  yield  his  eye  and  his  mind  to  the  sublime  in  the  Falls  of  Nia- 
gara, or  to  the  green,  beautiful  and  romantic  in  the  charming  country  of 
the  lesser  lakes,  or  the  grand  and  solitary  in  the  seas  of  fresh  water,  that 
spread  from  Ontario  to  the  interminable  deserts  of  the  north,  there  is 
nothing  of  grand  or  beautiful  in  nature  or  art  but  what  may  be  found 
between  the  splendid  bay  of  New  York,  and  the  view  of  lake  Erie  from 
the  square  in  Buffalo. 

Education.  This  state  has  a school  fund  of  $2,012,113,  exclusive  of 
the  local  school  fund  and  the  literary  fund,  the  avails  of  which  are  annu- 
ally appropriated  towards  the  support  of  colleges  and  academies.  In 
1829,  the  whole  amount  of  money  disbursed  for  the  support  of  common 
schools,  arising  from  all  these  sources,  was  $214,840.  The  number  of 
school  districts  is  8994.  In  the  year  1829,  480,825  children  were 
taught  in  the  common  schools.  There  is  a college  in  the  city  of  New 
York.  Union  college  in  Schenectady  has  already  been  described.  Ham- 
ilton college  is  situated  in  Clinton  not  far  from  Utica.  It  is  a respectably 
endowed  institution  with  2 large  college  edifices,  and  has  an  average 
number  of  120  students.  Geneva  college  is  at  Geneva,  and  there  is  a 
medical  college  at  Fairfield.  There  is  a theological  seminary  in  the  city 
of  New  York  and  in  Auburn , Hartwick  and  Hamilton.  The  number  of 
academies  in  this  state  is  55  with  3835  pupils.  The  high  school  of  the 
city  of  New  York  has  444  ; Albany'  Lancaster  school  500;  Mrs.  Wil- 
lard’s Troy  seminary  236.  These  views  more  clearly  than  any  general 


ATLANTIC  STATES- 


57 


remarks,  indicate  the  municipal  patronage  bestowed  by  this  great  state 
upon  literature  and  common  schools. 

West  Point  is  a military  school,  the  position  of  which  we  have  already 
noticed.  It  is  an  establishment  under  the  control  of  the  general  govern- 
ment, for  the  education  of  young  men  destined  for  the  army.  The  num- 
ber of  pupils  is  limited  to  250.  The  annual  expense  of  the  institution  to 
the  U.  S.  is  $115,000.  The  sum  paid  for  the  education  of  a cadet  is 
$330  per  annum.  There  are  30  professors,  instructors  and  assistants. 
The  course  of  education,  especially  in  the  exact  sciences,  is  thorough 
and  complete. 

General  Statistics  for  1830.  Population  1,934,496.  Yards  of  woollen, 
cotton  and  linen  cloths  manufactured  in  1830,  14,466,226.  Number  of 
grist  mills  2,264.  Saw  mills  5,195.  Oil  mills  121.  Fulling  mills, 
1,222.  Carding  machines,  1,584.  Iron  works  170.  Trip  hammers,  164. 
Distilleries,  1,229.  Asheries,  2,105.  There  are  237  newspapers  pub- 
lishing annually  as  is  estimated,  14,536,000  printed  sheets. 

Manufactures.  There  arc  88  cotton  manufactories,  208  woollen, 
200  iron.  The  cotton  manufactories  employ  about  132,000  spindles. 
About  22,000  bales  of  cotton  goods  manufactured  exceeds  $3,000,000. 
The  value  of  woollen  goods  annually  manfactured,  exclusive  of  those 
made  in  families,  is  considerably  upwards  of  $3,000,000.  The  value  of 
the  annual  manufacture  of  iron  is  $4,000,000.  There  are  about  50  paper 
mills,  and  the  value  of  annual  manufactures  in  this  article  $500,000. 
The  annual  value  of  the  manufacture  of  hats  is  $3,000,000.  That  of 
boots  and  shoes  amounts  to  5,000,000.  Leather  is  manufactured  to  the 
amount  of  $2,905, 750.  The  value  of  window  glass  made  is  $200,000. 
Manufactured  in  families,  as  per  state  census  returns,  2,918,233  yards 
fulled  cloths,  valued  at  $2,918,323.  Flannels  and  other  woollens,  not 
fulled,  3,468,001  yards,  value  $893,600.  Linen,  cotton,  and  other  cloths 
8,079,992  yards,  value  $1,211,998.  The  sales  of  domestic  manufactures 
in  the  city  of  New  York,  during  the  year  1S30,  are  estimated  to  amount 
to  $25,000,000.  There  are  29,495,720  acres  of  land  in  the  state.  The 
number  of  acres  of  improved  land  is  7,160,967,  valued  at  $179,024,175 
Value  of  neat  cattle,  horses,  sheep  and  hogs,  42,264,137.  The  amount 
of  salt  inspected,  on  which  duties  have  been  paid  to  the  state  for  1830,  is 
1,430,000  bushels.  The  tolls  of  the  canals  for  1830,  were  $1,  556,799, 
being  an  increase  of  243,662  over  those  of  the  preceding  year.  There 
are  52  banks  in  the  state,  with  an  aggregate  capital  of  $26,275,S00. 
There  are  75  steam  boats  (including  6 British  boats  on  Lake  Ontario)  ex- 
clusive of  steam  ferry  boats,  &c.  with  an  aggregate  of  4,192  horse  power.’ 
The  number  of  clergy  in  the  state  is  1,382.  That  of  attorneys  and  coun~ 
Vol.  II  8 


58 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


sellers  at  law  is  1,741.  That  of  Physicians  and  surgeons  2,549.  The 
number  of  militia  is  188,523. 


NEW  JERSEY, 

Is  138  miles  long  and  50  broad,  containing  8,600  square  miles.  Be" 
tween  38°  57'  and  41°  21'  N.  L.  and  1°  26'  and  3°  G'  E.  L.  from  Wash- 
ington. Bounded  N.  by  New  York ; E.  by  New  York  and  Atlantic,  S.  W„ 
by  Delaware  bay,  which  divides  it  from  Delaware;  W.  by  Pennsylvania. 

Physical  Aspcet.  The  maritime  belt  along  the  S.  E.  part  of  the  state 
is  low  and  rather  sterile.  The  central  parts  of  it  between  New  York  and 
Philadelphia  undulate  with  hill  and  dale,  giving  rise  to  clear  and  beauti- 
ful streams.  At  a considerable  distance  from  the  sea  is  a chain  of  moun- 
tains east  of  the  Delaware.  South  mountain  traverses  the  state  front 
north  to  south,  and  parallel,  and  at  a little  distance  farther  north  the  Kit- 
tatinny.  The  country  between  and  beyond  these  mountains  is  loamy 
with  a fine  verdant  turf  possessing  a rich  soil,  well  adapted  to  grazing. 
Lead,  copper  and  silver  are  among  the  mineral  productions;  and  in  va- 
rious points  it  abounds  with  extensive  beds  of  iron  ore. 

Rivers . The  Hudson,  separating  the  state  from  New  York,  bounds  it 
on  the  north  and  the  Delaware,  separating  it  from  Pennsylvania,  on  the 
south.  It  has  no  other  rivers  of  any  great  length,  though  every  part  of 
the  state  abounds  in  quick  mill  streams.  The  names  of  the  most  consid- 
erable rivers  are  Passaic,  Hackinsac,  Raritan,  Great  Egg  Harbor  and 
Musconecunk. 

Divisions.  Counties.  Bergen,  Hackinsac;  Burlington,  Mount  Holly 
Burlington;  Cape  May,  Cape  May ; C.H.,  Cumberland,  Bridgetown ? 
Ess  ex  Newark;  Elizabethtown ; Gloucester ; Woodbury ; Hunterdon,  Tren- 
ton; Middlesex,  New-Brunsivick , Amboy ; Monmouth,  Freehold;  Morris, 
Morristown;  Salem,  Salem,  Somerset,  Boundbrook ; Sussex,  Newton; 
Warren,  Belvidere.  Population  in  1820  277,575.  In  1830  320,779 

Climate.  The  mountainous  part  of  New  Jersey  has  a climate  not 
unlike  the  central  parts  of  New-York,  and  New-England.  In  the  mari- 
time and  southern  portions  it  is  milder,  than  would  be  indicated  by  its 
latitude,  and  as  mild  as  the  adjacent  state  of  Pennsylvania. 

Products.  The  maritime  people  find  great  advantage  in  their  extensive 
oyster  beds,  and  in  feeding  cattle  on  the  salt  meadows,  that  skirt  the  sea 
shores.  The  central  parts  of  the  state  abound  in  the  common  produc- 
tions of  the  middle  and  northern  states.  In  the  mountainous  regions  the 
productions  compare  with  those  of  Vermont;  and  the  inhabitants  are 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


59 


noted  for  Iheir  excellent  butter  and  cheese.  The  cider  and  fruit  of  the 
line  orchards  of  New-Jersey  have  gained  an  universal  reputation. 

Manufactures.  Those  of  iron  are  prosecuted  to  a very  great  extent. 
Among  other  common  articles  of  American  manufacture,  leather  forms 
a very  considerable  item.  Patterson  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  flour- 
ishing manufacturing  villages  W.  of  Massachusets.  It  is  situated  just 
below  the  romantic  falls  of  the  Passaic,  which  supplies  water  power  to 
any  extent.  The  numerous  establishments  have  recently  created  a very 
considerable  town.  It  contains  17  cotton  factories,  a clock  factory,  an 
iron  factory,  manufacturing  900,000  lbs.  iron,  and  850.000  lbs.  nails. 
The  cotton  factories  annually  manufacture  2,000,000  lbs.  The  flax 
factory  600,000  lbs.  of  flax.  There  is  one  machine  shop  employing  150 
hands.  Connected  with  it  is  an  iron  and  brass  foundry  working  annually 
600,000  lbs.  of  iron,  and  16,500  of  brass.  Shoes  are  made  extensively 
at  Newark.  Cotton  is  manufactured  at  Trenton.  The  industrious 
people  of  this  state  are  rapidly  following  the  example  of  New  England 
in  the  extension  of  their  manufactures. 

Religious  Denominations.  About  300  fixed  societies,  beside  the  nu- 
merous societies  of  the  methodists.  Of  the  fixed  societies  the  presby- 
terians  are  the  most  numerous;  and  after  them  the  Dutch  reformed 
church.  But  all  the  Christian  denominations  are  represented  in  this 
state. 

Literature . There  are  two  colleges,  one  at  Princeton,  and  the  other 
at  New  Brunswick.  Princeton  college  is  one  of  the  most  respectable 
seminaries  in  the  United  States.  The  position  is  high,  airy  and  com- 
manding, m the  centre  of  a neat  and  flourishing  village.  The  college 
edifice  called  Nassau  Hall  is  175  by  50  feet,  and  4 stories  high.  There 
are  two  other  considerable  buildings  belonging  to  the  college  all  of  stone, 
and  a number  of  houses  belonging  to  the  officers  of  the  government  . At 
some  distance  from  this  group  is  the  spacious  building  belonging  to  the 
theological  school.  This  building  is  also^of  stone,  and  its  dimensions 
150  by  50  feet,  and  4 stories  high.  The  college  library  amounts  to 
nearly  10,000  vols;  and  the  theological  library  to  6000.  The  course 
of  academical  studies  is  thorough  and  complete.  The  theological  semi- 
nary is  under  the  care  of  the  General  Assembly  of  the  Presbyterian 
church  of  the  United  States.  The  number  of  students  in  the  college 
averages  about  110,  and  the  theological  students  about  100. 

The  Rutger’s  college  at  New-Brunswick  is  under  the  care  of  the  Dutch 
Reformed  church.  It  has  a spacious  edifice,  and  respectable  endow 
ments,  and  promises  as  well  as  the  Theological  seminary,  to  be  a 
very  useful  institution.  There  are  over  20  incorporated  academies,  and 
some  seminaries  on  the  manual  labour  system.  The  slate  has  a fund  of 


60 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


$245,404  for  the  support  of  free  schools.  But  the  system  of  general 
education  wants  the  efficiency  of  those  of  New-England  and  New- 
York. 

Chief  Toivns.  Trenton  is  situated  on  the  East  bank  of  the  Delaware, 
opposite  the  Falls,  on  the  great  route  between  New-York  and  Philadel- 
phia, 60  miles  S.  W.  of  the  former,  and  33  miles  N.  E.  of  the  latter.  The 
Delaware  is  navigable  for  sloops  and  steam  boats  to  this  place.  It  is  a 
neat  town;  and  contains  8 public  buildings,  among  which  th8  most  con- 
spicuous is  the  State  house.  In  the  town  and  vicinity  are  six  houses  of 
public  worship.  The  bridge  accross  the  Delaware  has  five  arches,  and 
makes  a handsome  appearance.  The  town  has  some  respectable  manu- 
factories of  cotton.  This  place  is  memorable  as  the  scene  of  one  of  the 
most  splendid  exploits  of  general  Washington  in  crossing  the  Delaware, 
and  capturing  a large  detachment  of  Hessians.  It  contained  in  1820 
3942  inhabitants.  In  1830  it  is  supposed  to  contain  over  6000.  Newark 
is  charmingly  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Passaic  7 miles  from  its 
mouth,  by  the  curves  of  the  river.  Very  few  towns  of  the  size  make  a 
more  showy  appearance,  being  decidedly  the  handsomest  town  in  the 
state.  It  contains  5 or  6 public  buildings,  6 houses  for  public  worship, 
and  extensive  manufactories  of  different  kinds.  In  Orange,  near  this 
place,  is  made  the  famous  Newark  cider.  It  is  9 miles  W.  of  New  York. 
Population,  in  1820,  6,507.  In  1830,  10,705. 

Patterson,  of  the  manufactures  of  which  we  have  already  spoken,  is 
situated  on  the  Passaic  near  the  great  falls,  in  a position  much  admired 
for  its  romantic  surrounding  scenery.  It  is  the  chief  manufacturing 
town  in  the  state;  and  beside  the  extensive  manufactories  already  men- 
tioned, contains  5 or  6 houses  of  public  worship.  The  manufactories  are 
massive  buildings  of  stone.  The  falls  of  the  Passiac  are  72  feet  in 
perpendicular  descent, and  constitute  a splendid  cascade,  much  visited  by 
travellers. 

New  Brunswick  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Raritan  at  the  head 
of  sloop  and  steam  boat  navigation,  33  miles  S.  W.  of  New  York,  and 
60  N.  E.of  Philadelphia.  The  buildings  in  this  town,  which  has  a city 
incorporation,  are  sparsely  diffused  over  a considerable  extent.  It  con- 
tains 7 public  buildings,  and  5 churches.  We  have  already  mentioned 
the  college  and  theological  seminary  here.  There  are  some  handsome 
houses  on  the  hill  above  the  landing.  The  steam  boats  from  New  York 
with  passengers  for  Philadelphia,  land  here,  who  take  passage  in  stages 
from  this  point  to  Trenton  on  the  Delaware,  where  they  embark  on 
steam  boats  for  Philadelphia. 

Princeton  is  a pleasant  village,  the  college  of  which  has  already  been 
mentioned.  It  is  situated  10  miles  N.  E.  from  Trenton,  on  the  great  route 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


61 


between  New  York  and  Philadelphia.  It  contains  120  houses,  and  is 
consecrated  in  history  by  one  of  the  glorious  exploits  of  Washington,  in 
which  he  defeated  a British  regiment  marching  to  the  relief  of  Trenton. 
Elizabethtown,  15  miles  from  New  York,  is  an  agreeable  village  contain- 
ing over  200  houses,  and  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  towns  in  the  state. 
Bordentown,  7 miles  below  Trenton,  and  28  above  Philadelphia,  is  a neat 
village,  a little  north  of  which  the  mansion  of  Joseph  Bonaparte,  ex-King 
of  Spain,  is  pointed  out,  as  an  illustration  of  the  mutability  of  fortune. 
Burlington,  on  the  S.  shore  of  the  Delaware,  20  miles  above  Philadelphia, 
is  a considerable  village,  showing  to  advantage  to  the  passengers  on  the 
steam  boats,  as  they  round  to,  to  take  in  and  put  out  passengers.  Camb- 
den,  Salem,  Morristown,  Amboy,  and  Newton,  are  the  other  considerable 
towns  in  the  state. 

Roads  and  Canals.  New  Jersey  from  its  position  is  a great  thorough- 
fare. The  chief  roads  of  public  travel  are  turnpikes.  The  chief  canal 
is  the  Morris  Canal,  which  leaves  the  Hudson  opposite  New  York  at 
Powle’s  Hook.  The  ascents  of  this  canal,  instead  of  being  overcome  by 
locks,  are  surmounted  by  inclined  planes.  At  Bloomfield  boats  are  drawn 
up  an  inclined  plane  of  624  feet,  in  which  distance  they  overcome  52 
feet  of  perpendicular  height.  To  suspend  a boat  loaded  with  40  or  50 
tons  in  this  way  in  the  air  is  one  of  the  triumphs  of  the  modern  gigantic 
application  of  power.  This  canal  overcomes  890  feet  in  this  way,  and 
opens  a direct  route  from  the  city  of  New  York  to  the  celebrated  coal 
mines  at  Mauch  Chunk  in  Pennsylvania.  It  is  80  miles  in  length.  The 
Delaware  and  Hudson  Canal  may  be  considered  as  partly  belonging  to 
this  state.  The  scenery  of  the  country  through  which  it  passes  is  of  a 
singularly  romantic  character.  It  is  65  miles  long,  and  brings  the  Lack- 
awana  coal  to  New  York.  A rail  way  with  locomotive  cars  brings  the 
coal  to  the  canal.  The  Trenton  and  Raritan  Canal  is  not  yet  completed. 
It  will  open  a direct  sloop  and  steam  boat  communication  from  Baltimore 
to  New  York.  A rail  road  from  Cambden  to  Amboy  is  in  progress.  It 
is  supposed  that  with  the  other  improvements  contemplated,  it  will  enable 
the  traveller  to  pass  from  New  York  to  Philadelphia  in  four  hours! 


PENNSYLVANIA. 

Length,  800  miles;  breadth,  160,  containing  44,000  square  miles. 
Between  39°  43'  and  42°  16'  N.  L;  and  3°  31'  W.  L.  and  2°  18'  E.  L. 
from  Washington.  Bounded  N.  by  New  York;  N.  E.  by  the  Delaware? 
which  separates  it  from  New  Jersey;  S.  by  Delaware,  Maryland  and 
Virginia;  W.  by  Virginia  and  Ohio. 


6*2 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


Counties . Chief  Towns. 

Counties.  Chief  Towns. 

Adams,  Gettysburgh. 

Lebanon,  Lebanon. 

Alleghany,  Pittsburgh. 

Lehigh,  Allentown. 

Armstrong,  Kittanning. 

Luzerne,  Wilkesbarre. 

Beaver,  Beaver. 

Lycoming,  Williamsport. 

Bedford,  Bedford. 

McKean,  Cerestown. 

Berks,  Reading. 

Mercer,  Mercer. 

Bradford,  Athens. 

Mifflin,  Lewistown. 

Bucks,  Bristol. 

Montgomery,  Norristown. 

Butler,  Butler. 

Northampton,  Easton. 

Cambria,  Ebensburgh, 

Northumberland,  Sunbury. 

Centre,  Bellefonte. 

Perry,  Landisburgh. 

Chester,  West  Chester. 

Philadelphia,  Philadelphia. 

Clearfield,  Clearfield. 

Pike,  Milford. 

Columbia,  Catawissa. 

Potter,  Cowdersport. 

Crawford,  Meadville. 

Schuylkill,  Orwigsburgh. 

Cumberland,  Carlisle. 

Somerset,  Somerset. 

Dauphin,  Harrisburgh. 

Susquehannah,  Montrose. 

Delaware,  Chester. 

Tioga,  Wellsborough. 

Erie,  Erie. 

Union,  Mifflinburgh. 

Fayette,  Uniontown. 

Venango,  Franklin. 

Franklin,  Chambersburgh. 

Warren,  Warren. 

Greene,  Waynesburgh. 

Washington,  Washington. 

Huntingdon,  Huntingdon. 

Wayne,  Bethany/! 

Indiana,  Armagh. 

Westmoreland,  Greensburgh. 

Jefferson,  Brookville. 

York,  York. 

Lancaster,  Lancaster. 

Population  in  1820,  1,049,393. 

In  1830,  1,347,672. 

Physical  Aspect . A considerable  belt  along  the  south-east  section  of 
the  state  is  level,  gradually  rising  to  an  uneven,  and  from  that  to  an  undu- 
lating surface.  Between  the  first  line  of  the  Alleghanies,  called  South 
Mountain,  and  the  second  chain,  the  Blue  Ridge,  is  a broad,  fertile  lime 
stone  valley.  The  last  western  chain  of  the  Alleghanies  passes  through 
the  state  from  N.  E.  to  S.  W.  It  is  broad,  and  composed  of  many  de- 
tached mountains.  West  of  these  mountains,  Western  Pennsylvania  is 
hill,  dale  and  plain,  with  a surface  not  unlike  that  of  New  England.  The 
soil  of  the  vallies  is  almost  invariably  fertile.  The  S.  E.  division  of  the 
state,  along  the  Susquehannah,  embraces  a great  body  of  excellent  land. 
The  basin  between  Alleghany  River  and  Lake  Erie  is  a fine  country. 
A broad  belt  of  the  finest  country  stretches  east  of  the  Alleghany  Moun- 
tains, and  spreads  with  the  same  extent  into  Maryland.  This  midland  of 
Pennsylvania  includes  as  rich  and  highly  cultivated  a tract  of  country  as 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


63 


is  in  America,  and  is  chiefly  settled  wth  Germans*  The  highest  peaks  of 
the  Alleghanies  are  elevated  from  2 to  3,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  and  from  1 to  2,000  feet  above  the  level  of  their  bases.  This  region 
in  its  mountains,  vallies,  and  cascades,  presents  all  varieties  of  the  grand, 
rugged,  sheltered,  and  romantic  in  scenery.  Iron  in  vast  quantities,  lead, 
copper,  many  of  the  useful  fossils,  particularly  the  greatest  abundance 
and  variety  of  coal,  marble,  free  stone,  and  all  the  useful  earths  for  build- 
ing and  the  arts  abound  in  this  state,  so  variegated  in  surface,  and  of 
geological  formations  so  different  from  each  other. 

. Soil  and  Productions.  No  state  in  the  Union  shows  to  the  passing 
traveller  a richer  agriculture  than  this.  It  is  emphatically  a grain  country, 
raising  the  greatest  abundance  of  fine  wheat.  It  produces  all  the  fruits 
and  productions  of  the  Northern  and  Middle  states,  and  is  better  adapted 
for  the  cultivation  of  the  mulberry  and  the  grape,  than  most  of  them, 
Pennsylvania  is  famous  for  the  great  size,  and  the  strength  and  excellence 
of  its  breed  of  draught  horses.  The  largest  kinds  show  a prodigious 
bulk,  when  compared  with  the  common  dimensions  of  the  northern 
horses.  Among  the  other  grains,  this  state  is  famous,  in  some  parts,  for 
the  cultivation  of  buck  wheat  and  spelts.  Most  of  the  finer  fruits  of  the 
temperate  climates  flourish.  The  cider  is  particularly  excellent.  Wheat 
is  the  staple  article,  though  parts  of  the  state  abound  in  the  finest  pro- 
ducts of  the  dairy. 

Religion.  There  are  about  700  fixed  societies  in  this  state.  Of  these 
the  most  numerous  denomination  is  the  Presbyterian.  The  German  Cal- 
vinists and  Lutherans  constitute  the  next  most  numerous  denomination 
The  friends  have  between  60  and  70  congregations.  The  inhabitants  are 
descended  from  all  the  European  nations.  The  Germans,  however,  are 
the  most  numerous  race,  and  next  to  them,  perhaps,  the  Irish,  and  the 
Scotch  Irish.  In  no  state  in  the  union  is  the  dialect  so  compounded  of 
all  idioms,  accents,  tones  and  modes  of  framing  sentences.  Yet,  perhaps,- 
there  is  no  state,  in  which  the  varieties  of  origin,  opinions,  faith,  fashion,- 
and  modes  of  life  have  amalgamated  into  a more  marked  and  distinct  na- 
tionality, than  in  the  people  of  this  state. 

Rivers.  We  have  already  dwelt  upon  those  west  of  the  Alleghanies, 
The  principal  Atlantic  rivers  of  the  state  are  the  Delaware,  Schuylkill, 
Lehigh,  Susquehannah,  and  Juniata.  The  Susquehannah  is  the  largest 
Atlantic  river  of  the  United  States.  It  rises  in  New  York  near  the 
sources  of  the  Mohawk,  and  meandering  south  west,  it  enters  Pennsylva- 
nia, and  by  a sweeping  bend  returns  upon  its  course,  in  the  state 
of  New  York.  Still  searching  a westward  course  it  again  enters 
Pennsylvania,  and  receives  Tioga  river,  West  Branch,  and  the  Juniata. 
These  accumulated  waters  having  swollen  it  to  a broad  stream,  it  passes 
Harrisburg,  enters  Maryland,  and  finds  its  estuary  in  Chesapeake  Bay  at 


64 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


Havre  de  Grace;  after  a course,  measuring  its  curves,  of  more  than 
500  miles.  Its  principal  branches  are  Tunkhannoc,  Lackawannoc,, 
Fishing  Creek,  Anderson’s  Creek,  Clearfield  Creek,  Mushannon,  Sine- 
mahoning,  Kettle,  Pine,  Lycoming,  Lowalsock  and  Muncy  Creeks. 
These  streams  have  courses  from  30  to  70  miles  in  length.  Juniata  is 
the  largest  tributary.  This  stream  rises  in  the  Alleghanies  from  two 
large  branches,  which  rise  a little  above  Huntingdon.  The  united 
stream  divides  again,  and  by  two  mouths  fall  into  the  Susquehannah  14 
miles  above  Harrisburgh.  Below  this  junction  the  principal  tributaries 
are  Sherman’s  Conedoguinnet,  Yellow  Breeches,  Conewago  and  Codorus 
Creeks  from  the  west;  and  Swatara,  Conestoga  and  Pequea  Creeks  on 
the  east.  No  stream  in  the  United  States  passes  through  more  grand 
and  romantic  scenery,  than  the  Juniata. 

Lehigh  is  an  important  branch  of  the  Delaware.  It  has  cut  its  way 
through  several  hills,  and  among  others  the  Blue  Ridge.  After  passing 
through  the  Moravian  towns,  and  a beautiful  country,  it  falls  into  the 
Delaware  at  Easton.  The  canals  have  enabled  the  great  cities  to  avail 
themselves  of  the  rich  and  exhaustless  coal  beds  near  its  banks. 

Schuylkill  rises  among  the  mountains  in  Schuylkill  county,  windin 
through  a rich  country  and  the  towns  of  Reading,  and  Pottstown,  supply- 
ing Philadelphia  with  water  in  its  course,  it  falls  into  the  Delaware  7 
miles  below  that  city.  It  has  a long  course,  and  the  locks  and  canals 
have  rendered  it  navigable,  so  that  the  immense  beds  of  anthracite  coal 
on  its  head  sources  are  rendered  available  to  Philadelphia,  and  the 
country  on  the  sea  board.  The  names  of  many  other  streams  might  be 
given,  which  furnish  admirable  water  power,  and  which  irrigate  and 
adorn  the  rich  interior  of  the  state. 

Canals  und  Rail  Roads.  Pennsylvania  has  commenced  a gigantic 
outline  of  internal  improvements.  In  1830  it  had  480  miles  of  canal 
finished;  250  in  progress  towards  completion,  and  368  projected  and 
surveyed.  The  whole  length  of  the  grand  Pennsylvania  canal  would  be 
if  completed  in  a continuous  line,  about  450  miles  Of  this  line  260 
miles  from  Philadelphia  to  a point  about  20  miles  beyond  Huntingdon  are 
completed.  The  whole  line  from  Johnstown  on  the  wrest  side  of  the 
Alleghany,  over  100  miles,  is  completed.  An  interval  of  something 
more  than  50  miles  from  the  Juniatta  over  the  Alleghany  to  Johnstown 
is  yet  incomplete.  It  is  proposed  to  unite  them  by  a rail  way  over  the 
mountains.  The  Philadelphia  and  Wyoming  canal,  connecting  that  far 
famed  valley  with  that  city,  is  268  miles  in  length.  It  is  intended  to 
unite  the  Pennsylvania  canal  at  Pittsburgh  with  a canal  through  Meadville 
to  Lake  Erie.  This  canal  will  be  between  2 and  300  miles  in  length, 
Still  another  canal  route  has  been  surveyed  to  lead  from  Pittsburgh  to 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


65 


the  summit  level  of  the  Ohio,  and  Erie  canal.  Numerous  side  cuts  con- 
nected with  these  canals,  which,  a few  years  since,  would  have  been 
deemed  impracticable,  now  dwindle  in  comparison  with  these  gigantic 
works,  and  are  too  numerous  to  find  a place  in  this  work. 

Forty  miles  of  the  Philadelphia  and  Columbia  Rail  road  are  nearly 
completed.  At  the  termination  of  the  Hudson  and  Delaware  canal,  a 
rail  way  extends  over  Moosic  mountains,  reaching  from  the  canal  to 
Carbondale  on  Lackawanna  River.  It  is  164  miles  in  length,  and  over- 
comes an  elevation  of  85S  feet.  The  Mauch  Chunk  rail  way  is  of  wood 
over  laid  with  iron.  It  connects  the  coal  mines  with  Lehigh  River, 
which  is  rendered  beatable  by  canal  boats.  The  summit  of  the  mountain, 
where  the  coal  is  found,  is  982  feet  above  the  level  of  the  river.  The 
length  of  the  rail  way  is  9 miles.  The  cars  descend  the  platform,  where 
they  unload  in  a minute  and  20  seconds.  132  cars  have  descended  in  a 
day  with  198  tons  of  coal.  The  loaded  cars,  in  descending,  are  attached 
to  empty  cars  at  the  foot,  and  draw  them  up.  The  coal  of  this  exceed- 
ingly rich  and  abundant  mine  is  anthacite,  hard,  pure,  black,  with  a 
beautiful  conchoidal  fracture,  and  perfectly  clean  in  the  handling. 
Other  rail  roads  are  in  contemplation  and  survey. 

Manufactures.  This  article  is  too  extensive  to  allow  details.  In  the 
important  article  of  iron  manufactures,  Pennsylvania  far  excels  any 
other  state  in  the  union.  We  have  spoken  of  the  manufactures  west  of 
the  Alleghanies.  As  long  ago  as  in  1810,  there  were  in  the  state  375  im- 
portant iron  factories  for  all  operations  in  iron,  from  smelting  the  ores  to 
manufacturing  nails.  At  the  same  time  there  were  64  cotton  factories; 
64  paper  mills,  and  8 glass  works.  Some  of  these  manufactories  have 
doubled  since  that  time.  It  is  supposed  that  the  total  value  of  manufac- 
tures in  this  state  may  be  about  $70,000,000.  The  bank  capital  is 
$10,310,333.  The  tonnage  of  the  shipping  is  104,114  tons.  In  1816 
the  exports  were  $7,196,246.  The  domestic  trade  has  increased  prodi- 
giously, since  that  time.  The  foreign  trade  has  diminished,  as  a no J rral 
consequence,  amounting  in  exports  in  1830  to  $4,089  935. 

Education.  This  great  state  has  made  certain  constitutional  provis- 
ions, that  the  poor  shall  be  taught  gratis.  Means  have  been  provided  in 
almost  all  the  comities,  to  carry  this  provision  into  effect.  The  report  of 
the  comptrollers  of  the  public  schools,  states,  that  in  12  years  preceding 
1830,  34,703  children  had  received  the  advantage  of  this  provision. 
But  general  instruction  is  not  diffused  so  universally,  as  in  New-York. 
The  university  of  Pennsylvania,  after  many  changes,  of  the  original  plan, 
is  organized  on  the  most  respectable  footing,  and  the  medical  school 
attached  to  it  yields  in  reputation  to  none  in  the  union.  Dickinson 
college  at  Carlisle,  is  an  important  institution.  Jefferson  college  at 
Vol.  II.  9 


65 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


Cannonsburg,  has  a medical  school  attached  to  it  in  Philadelphia, 
Washington  college,  at  Washington,  the  Western  University  at  Pittsburgh, 
and  Alleghany  college  at  Meadville,  have  already  been  named  under  the 
head  of  Western  Pennsylvania.  Madison  college  at  Uniontown  is  an 
institution  under  the  care  of  the  Methodist  church.  Mount  Airy  college 
is  fixed  at  Germantown.  There  are  Theological  schools  at  Gettysburgb, 
York  and  Alleghany.  The  Moravian  schools  at  the  beautiful  villages  of 
Nazareth,  Bethlehem  and  Litiz  sustain  a high  reputation,  and  are  in  the 
most  flourishing  condition.  The  system  of  instruction  is  of  a peculiar 
character,  and  has  deserved  estimation  for  conferring  on  females  an  effi- 
cient and  useful  education. 

Chief  Towns.  Philadelphia,  the  second  city  in  the  union,  is  situated 
on  ihe  west  bank  of  the  Delaware,  300  miles  S.  W.  of  Boston,  90  S.  W. 
of  New-York,  103  miles  N.  E.  of  Baltimore,  and  137  miles  N.  E.  of 
Washington.  It  is  situated  on  an  isthmus  plain  between  the  Schuylkill 
and  Delaware,  extending  from  the  one  to  the  other,  and  is  about  6 miles 
above  their  junction.  It  is  126  miles  by  the  curves  of  the  river  from 
the  city  to  the  estuary.  The  Delaware  is  here  a broad,  unimpeded  and 
noble  stream,  affording  water  for  vessels  of  any  size;  and  furnishes  an 
admirable  harbor.  The  city  is  built  in  the  form  of  an  oblong  square; 
and  is  noted  for  the  regularity,  with  which  its  streets  running  north  and 
south,  are  intersected  by  others  at  right  angles,  running  east  and  west. 
The  streets  are  from  113  to  50  feet  wide,  and  numbered  in  one  direction 
first,  second,  third,  and  so  on;  and  in  the  other  by  specific  names:  so 
that  no  city  exists  in  which  it  is  so  easy  to  find  a given  point  by  the 
direction.  The  number  of  squares,  it  is  believed,  amounts  to  about 
350. 

It  is  unquestionably  among  the  most  manufacturing  cities,  all  things 
taken  into  view,  in  the  United  States.  Among  all  the  extensive  bran- 
ches, for  which  it  is  famous,  paper,  printing,  and  publishing  are  important 
itetps.  A great  number  of  gazettes,  periodicals  and  monthlies  are  issued  ; 
and  one  quarterly  critical,  and  another  quarterly  medical  journal.  This 
city  vies  with  Boston  in  the  number  and  extent  of  its  school  and  classical 
books.  If  Boston  publishes,  as  regards  material  and  execution,  more  sub- 
stantially, Philadelphia  publishes  cheaper,  a circumstance  often  as  impor- 
tant in  the  extension  of  its  books.  This  city  has  reputation,  also  for 
the  extent  and  excellence  of  its  breweries. 

Its  literary,  philosophical  and  humane  institutions  are  worthy  of  all 
praise.  The  Philadelphia  library  owes  its  origin  to  the  illustrious  Frank- 
lin. It  contains  a museum,  a philosophical  apparatus,  the  Philadelphia 
library,  and  the  Loganian  library;  amounting  in  all  to  25,000  volumes. 
The  American  Philosophical  Society,  the  Philadelphia  society  for  pro- 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


67 


moling  agriculture,  the  atheneeum  and  the  academy  of  natural  sciences, 
are  all  important  institutions,  and  have  libraries  and  collections.  The 
friend’s  library  contains  a respectable  collection,  and  the  friend’s  common 
schools  institution  is  an  important  and  efficient  one.  There  are  among 
the  literary  institutions  great  numbers  of  Lancasterian,  Sunday  and  in- 
fant schools.  Among  the  humane  institutions  isj  one  for  the  deaf  and 
dumb.  One  of  the  noblest  establishments  in  this  or  any  other  state  is  the 
Pennsylvania  Hospital.  It  extends  a front  of  273-feet,  and  has  a large 
building  connected  with  it,  sufficient  to  contain  50  or  60  patients.  Ap- 
pended to  it  is  a beautiful  garden.  There  are  admirable  arrangements 
for  every  thing  appertaining  to  the  comfort,  and  restoration  of  the  dis- 
eased both  in  body  and  mind.  West’s  splendid  picture  of  Christ 
healing  the  sick  is  properly  kept  in  this  institution,  and  for  a trifling  gra- 
tuity shown  to  strangers.  There  are  over  40  public  buildings,  and  about 
70  houses  of  public  worship.  The  names,  uses  and  dimensions  of  some 
of  the  public  buildings  follow. 

The  first  presbyterian  church  is  a noble  building  as  are  the  episcopal 
churches  in  eighth  and  tenth  streets.  The  market  is  a low  range  of 
buildings,  in  the  middle  of  market  street,  extending  from  the  Delaware  to 
eighth  street.  The  Bank  of  the  United  States,  in  Chesnut  street  is  con- 
sidered the  most  finished  specimen  of  pure  Grecian  architecture  in  the 
union.  It  is  of  white  marble  with  Doric  columns  in  front.  The  Bank  of 
Pennsylvania  fronts  tw'o  streets  with  Ionic  columns,  and  is  of  white  mar- 
ble. The  state  house  is  a large  brick  building  in  Chesnut  street.  Ge- 
rard’s bank  is  a beautiful  marble  building  with  Corinthian  columns.  The 
arcade  is  an  imposing  stone  structure  leading  from  Chesnut  to  Lafayette 
street.  It  is  fitted  up  with  shops,  and  in  the  second  story  with  piazzas, 
and  contains  Peale’s  museum.  The  theatre  in  Chesnut  street  has  a 
marble  front.  The  Masonic  hall,  a little  further  on,  is  in  the  Gothic 
style.  The  Academy  of  arts  is  in  Chesnut  street  between  tenth  and 
eleventh.  Among  the  statues  are  the  three  graces  of  Canova;  and  a 
gallery  of  pictures  principally  the  works  of  American  artists.  The 
United  States  mint  is  visited,  as  an  object  of  general  curiosity.  Most  of 
the  visitants  purchase  gold  and  silver  coins  struck  under  their  eye.  The 
amount  coined  annually  varies  from  two  and  a half  to  three  million  dollars. 
In  1829,  the  number  of  pieces  of  coin  struck  amounted  to  7,674,501. 

The  Schuylkill  water  works  are  a splendid  establishment,  and  noted 
especially  for  the  rich  and  varied  prospect  enjoyed  from  them.  The 
building,  in  which  the  machinery  is  contained,  is  a handsome  one,  and  the 
machinery  is  capable  of  raising  7 million  gallons  of  water  in  24  hours. 
The  wheels  are  driven  by  a current  from  a dam  above.  The  reservoirs 
are  on  a hill,  higher  than  any  part  of  the  city.  The  pipes  extend  34  os 


68 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


35  miles-  This  grand  work  abundantly  repays  the  inspection.  Pratt’s 
Garden,  in  full  view  of  the  water  works,  is  a charming  place,  and  well 
worthy  to  be  visited.  The  penitentiary  has  the  aspect  of  a fortress.  The 
wall  is  of  granite  40  feet  high,  and  encloses  a square  650  feet  each  way. 
The  Navy  Hospital,  2 miles  south  west  of  the  centre  of  the  city,  has  a 
front  of  386  feet,  and  is  3 stories  high.  It  is  built  partly  of  granite  and 
partly  of  marble.  The  Navy  Yard  is  of  great  extent,  and  fitted  up  with 
first  rate  appurtenances  for  building  frigates,  and  ships  of  the  line.  The 
Pennsylvania,  building  here,  it  is  said,  will  be  the  largest  shippn  the  world, 
and  it  is  to  carry  150  guns. 

The  public  squares  of  this  beautiful  city  strike  a stranger  with  pleasing 
emotions,  from  their  frequency,  neatness,  verdure;  and  the  number  of 
people  promenading  them.  No  city  in  the  union  can  show  such  long 
ranges  of  uniform  and  magnificent  houses,  as  this.  Chesnut  street  may 
serve  as  a sample.  A volume  would  be  requisite  to  convey  details  of  all 
the  public  buildings,  churches,  literary  and  humane  institutions,  and  in- 
teresting objects,  worthy  of  the  inspection  of  strangers.  Uniformity, 
neatness  and  utility  stand  embodied  as  the  characteristics  of  this  great  and 
thriving  city.  Two  men,  whose  names  will  be  coeval  with  time,  differing  in 
a thousand  respects,  have  been  enabled  to  stamp  a blended  impress  of  their 
own  peculiar  intellectual  character  upou  the  aspect  and  institutions  of 
Philadelphia.  The  one  is  Franklin,  the  simple  and  sagacious  expounder 
of  the  doctrine  of  utility;  and  the  other,  William  Penn,  the  memorable 
patriarch,  the  immortal  asserter  of  toleration,  a doctrine  in  his  time 
unknown;  and  now  as  universally  admitted,  and  lauded  in  theory,  as  it  is 
universally  infringed  and  disregarded  in  practice.  Population  in  1820, 
108,116.  In  1830,  161,412. 

The  entrance  of  the  estuary  of  the  Delaware  is  defended  by  an  artificial 
breakwater,  an  immense  work  not  yet  completed.  The  artificial  com- 
munications of  Philadelphia  with  the  interior  by  turnpikes  and  McAdam- 
ized  roads,  and  navigable  rivers  and  canals,  are  too  numerous  to  be  dwelt 
upon,  except  in  general  terms.  One  communication  of  permanent  im- 
portance must  not  be  overlooked.  The  numerous  and  beautiful  steam 
boats  that  formerly  plied  between  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore  used 
to  descend  the  Delaware  to  a certain  point,  when  the  passengers  de- 
barked and  took  stages  from  the  Delaware  across  the  state  of  Delaware  to 
Newcastle  on  Chesapeake  Bay.  A ship  canal  is  now  cut  across  this 
peninsula,  uniting  the  Delaware  and  the  Chesapeake  by  an  uninterrupted 
line  of  inland  canal  communication.  This  canal  is  14  miles  long,  and  is 
60  feet  in  width  at  the  water  line.  It  was  originally  dug  8 feet  in  depth, 
but  has  been  increased  to  10.  The  locks  are  100  feet  in  length,  and  the 
whole  construction  is  for  sloops  of  the  largest  class  and  schooners.  The 
steam  boats  intended  to  ply  on  this  route  are  of  the  largest  and  most 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


69 


beautiful  kind.  Three  towns,  Delaware,  Chesapeake,  and  Bohemia  have 
already  sprung  up  on  the  route.  The  harbor  on  the  Delaware  is  formed 
by  two  prodigious  piers  running  into  the  water.  The  bridges  over  the 
canal  are  some  of  them  of  the  class  called  swivel  bridges.  Over  the 
centre  of  the  Deep  Cut  is  the  Summit  Bridge,  reaching  from  hill  to  hill, 
235  feet  span,  and  90  feet  at  its  key  stone  above  the  level  of  the  water. 
Schooners,  and  the  largest  class  of  sloops  pass  underneath  with  their 
masts  standing. 

Harrisburgh,  the  political  metropolis  of  the  state,  has  a pleasant  site 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Susquehannah,  nearly  100  miles  N.  W.  of  Phila- 
delphia. It  contains  7 or  8 public  buildings,  and  4 houses  of  public 
worship.  The  state  house  is  a spacious  and  elegant  building,  and  makes 
an  imposing  show.  A bridge  has  been  erected  across  the  Susquehannah 
at  this  place.  An  island  divides  the  bridge  into  two  divisions.  The  whole 
length  of  the  bridge  and  cause-way  over  the  island  is  a mile.  It  contains 
about  5,000  inhabitants. 

Lancaster  is  situated  in  a delightfully  fertile  country  near  Conestoga 
Creek,  which  falls  into  the  Susquehannah;  and  is  connected  with  the 
great  chain  of  the  Pennsylvania  Canal.  It  contains  9 or  10  public  build- 
ings, and  as  many  churches.  Some  of  the  public  buildings,  many  of  the 
private  mansions,  and  two  of  the  churches  are  handsome  buildings. 
Many  of  the  buildings  are  in  the  substantial  German  style  of  building  in 
Pennsylvania,  of  stone.  It  is  becoming  a manufacturing  town.  Many 
of  the  inhabitants  are  Germans,  and  the  German  language  is  much  spoken. 
Three  or  four  German  gazettes  are  published  in  this  place,  and  as  many 
in  English.  The  canal  system,  by  connecting  Lancaster  by  water  com- 
munication with  Philadelphia,  has  given  a new  impulse  to  this  town.  It 
is  situated  62  miles  W.  of  Philadelphia,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  an 
admirable  road,  and  is  36  S.  E.  of  Harrisburgh.  Population  in  1820, 
6,663.  In  1830,  7,683. 

Beading  is  also  central  to  a fine  agricultural  country,  and  is  situated 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Schuylkill,  and  contains  a number  of  public  build- 
ings, and  5 churches.  Being  connected  with  Philadelphia  by  the  line  of 
the  Pennsylvania  Canal,  its  trade  is  rapidly  advancing.  There  are  many 
fine  mills  in  the  vicinity.  Its  manufactures  are  increasing.  Hats  con 
stitute  a large  item  in  its  manufactures.  Population  about  6,000. 

Carlisle  is  an  interior  town,  16  miles  W.  of  Harrisburgh,  114  W.  of 
Philadelphia,  and  contains  5 public  buildings  and  8 churches.  The  streets 
are  handsome,  and  the  buildings  chiefly  of  stone  and  brick.  Dickinson 
College,  already  mentioned,  is  in  this  place.  Population  is  about  5,000. 
Easton  is  a very  neat  tGwn  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Delaware,  at  the 
junction  of  the  Lehigh,  60  miles  N.  of  Philadelphia.  It  contains  a num- 


70 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


ber  of  public  buildings,  a church  and  an  academy.  Here  is  a handsome 
bridge  across  the  Delaware. 

Chambersburgh  is  situated*  on  Conococheague  Creek,  with  striking 
views  of  the  Alleghanies  in  the  distance.  The  stream  on  which  it  stands 
furnishes  waterpower  for  many  manufactories,  of  which  the  town  already 
contains  a considerable  number.  It  has  6 public  buildings,  7 churches, 
and  400  dwelling  houses,  of  which  a great  proportion  are  brick  or  stone. 
Blue  lime  stone,  free  stone,  and  marble  abound  in  the  vicinity.  It  has 
turnpike  communications  with  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  and  Pittsburgh. 
Population,  in  1820,  was  2,401.  The  number,  in  1830,  amounted  to 
3,233. 

York  is  situated  on  Codoru’s  Creek,  85  miles  W.  of  Philadelphia,  and 
48  N.  of  Baltimore,  and  contains  6 public  buildings  and  8 churches.  It 
is  a handsome  town  in  the  centre  of  a fertile  and  charming  country. 
Population  in  1820,  3,546.  In  1830,  5,207.  Bethlehem  is  a charming 
Moravian  town  on  the  Lehigh,  54  miles  N.  W.  of  Philadelphia.  The 
town  is  built  of  stone,  and  inhabited  entirely  by  Moravians.  The  two 
seminaries  for  instruction  in  this  place  enjoy  a high  reputation.  Popula- 
tion 2,000.  Lehigh  and  Litiz  are  the  other  principal  Moravian  estab- 
lishments in  this  vicinity.  The  principal  towns  in  West  Pennsylvania 
have  been  already  noticed.  Northampton,  on  the  Lehigh,  Norristown, 
on  the  Schuylkill,  and  Huntingdon,  on  the  Juniata,  are  considerable 
towns.  Bedford,  on  the  south  branch  of  the  Juniata,  is  the  seat  of  the 
Bedford  mineral  springs,  and  surrounded  by  splendid  scenery.  A barren 
catalogue  of  the  names  of  30  other  considerable  villages  might  be  given. 
A single  fact  from  the  late  census  of  1830,  will  illustrate  the  vigorous 
advance  of  this  great  state  in  population  and  importance.  The  aggregate 
increase  of  28  towns  and  boroughs  is  at  the  rate  of  60  per  cent.  In 
1829,  297,206  barrels  of  wheat  flour,  39,523  of  rye  flour,  and  1,609 
hogsheads  and  6,433  barrels  of  corn  meal  were  inspected  in  Philadelphia. 

It  spreads  a wide  surface  in  the  Ohio  valley,  rapidly  advancing  in 
wealth  and  population . New  towns  are  springing  up  in  every  direction. 
It  abounds  in  all  the  elements  of  wealth  and  power.  Public  opinion  has 
given  it  a strong  impulse  towards  manufactures,  and  a gigantic  system  of 
internal  improvements.  Its  inhabitants,  though  composed  of  all  nations, 
are  distinguished  for  their  orderly  habits,  industry,  and  sober  progress  of 
thrift,  and  a sturdy  spirit  of  political  independence.  The  passing  stranger 
as  he  traverses  the  state,  is  struck  with  the  noble  roads  and  public  works, 
with  the  beautiful  German  farms  and  their  magnificent  and  imperishable 
stone  houses,  and  often  still  more  magnificent  stone  barns,  An  agricul- 
tural country,  alike  charming  and  rich,  spreads  under  his  eye.  He  not 
only  passes  many  handsome  towns,  but  is  surprised  with  the  frequent  re- 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


71 


currence  of  neat  and  populous  villages,  the  names  of  which  he  had  met 
in  no  itinerary  or  gazetteer.  He  sees  a country  of  immense  agricultural 
resources. 


DELAWARE. 

Length  92  miles.  Breadth  23,  containing  2050  square  miles.  Be- 
tween 38°  2?'  and  39°  50'  N.  L.  and  1°  13'  and  1°  57'  E.  L.  Bounded 
N.  by  Pennsylvania,  E.  Delaware  bay  and  Atlantic,  S.  and  W.  by  Mary- 
land. 

Physical  Aspect . The  greater  portion  of  the  surface  is  one  extended 
plain.  The  upper  part  of  the  state  is  undulating.  Christiana  heights 
and  Brandywine  hills  are  rough  and  elevated.  On  the  table  summits  be- 
tween Delaware  and  the  Chesapeake  bays  is  a chain  of  swamps,  from 
which  the  waters  descend  in  one  direction  to  Chesapeake  bay,  and  from 
the  other  to  Delaware  River.  Taken  together,  it  is  a fine  tract  of  coun- 
try for  cultivation,  and  admirably  adapted  to  the  growing  of  wheat,  the 
staple  of  the  state.  Delaware  flour  has  reputation  abroad  for  softness 
and  whiteness  beyond  all  other  American  flour.  It  is  distinctly  perceiv- 
ed in  this  state,  that  the  temperature  is  softening  to  that  of  the  southern 
states.  Cypress,  the  timber  of  southern  countries,  abounds  in  the  swamps. 
The  catalpa,  persimmon  and  some  of  the  laurel  tribe,  are  found  among  the 
forest  trees.  Sweet  potatoes  are  raised  without  difficulty.  We  know  of 
no  ores  found  in  this  state,  except  those  of  iron,  which  are  abundant. 

Divisions.  Counties . Kent,  Dover;  Newcastle,  Newcastle;  Surry, 
Georgetown;  Population  in  1820,72,749.  In  1830,  76,739. 

The  state  owns  13,213  tons  of  shipping.  Its  exports,  passing  through 
Philadelphia  or  Baltimore,  are  ehiefly  included  in  the  amount  of  exports 
from  those  towns. 

Manufactures  and  Commerce.  Brandywine  Creek  in  the  upper  part  of 
the  state  furnishes  water  power  for  great  and  growing  manufacturing  es- 
tablishments. The  chief  articles  are  flour,  cottons,  woollens,  paper  and 
gunpowder.  Newcastle  county  is  the  seat  of  the  principal  of  those  estab- 
lishments. In  proof  of  the  tendency  of  manufacturing  industry,  we  give 
the  following  facts  from  a table  of  the  assessed  value  of  lands  in  this 
county,  in  1828.  The  whole  valuation  of  lots,  houses  and  lands  in  it  is 
$8,086,932.  Christian  hundred  furnishes  $2,710,000,  being  out  of  pro- 
portion richer,  than  any  other  part  of  the  country,  in  consequence  of  the 
extensive  manufactures  in  its  beautiful  neighborhood.  The  highest  value 
©f  land  is  forty  four  dollars  per  acre  in  Christiana  hundred,  the  mo3t  man- 


72 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


ufacturing  district  and  the  lowest  is  $7  in  Appoquinimink,  the  least  man- 
ufacturing part  of  the  state.  All  the  other  hundreds  approach  nearer 
the  highest  value,  or  retire  from  it,  in  proportion  to  their  manufacturing 
industry.  The  capital  invested  in  manufactures  in  Delaware  in  1827 
was  $ 2,500,000 . 

Canals.  The  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  canal  runs  through  this  state 
and  has  already  been  mentioned.  This  state  has  made  great  exertions 
to  render  the  Susquehannah  navigable,  and  has  effected  it  as  far  as 
Columbia. 

Literature.  The  state  has  a school  fund  of  ^170,000.  There  are 
academies  at  Wilmington,  New  Castle,  Newark,  Smyrna,  Dover,  Milford, 
Lewistown  and  Georgetown.  Schools  are  established  in  every  district 
of  4 miles  square.  No  district  is  entitled  to  any  share  of  the  school 
fund,  that  will  not  raise  by  taxation  a sum  equal  to  its  share  of  the  income 
of  the  fund.  This  state  furnishes  one  college  student  fron  every  11,000 
of  its  inhabitants. 

Religion.  The  number  of  fixed  congregations  is  stated  to  be  55,  of 
these  the  Presbyterians  are  said  to  be  the  most  numerous. 

Chief  Towns.  Dover  is  the  political  metropolis.  It  is  situated  on 
Jones  Creek,  7 miles  from  its  entrance  into  Delaware  bay.  It  contains 
4 public  buildings,  of  which  the  state  house  is  the  most  conspicuous,  and 
2 churches.  The  number  of  its  inhabitants  is  about  1200.  Wilmington 
is  the  largest  town  in  the  state,  and  is  a handsome  and  thriving  place. 
It  is  situated  between  Brandywine  and  Christiana  creeks,  1 mile  above 
their  comfluence,  and  2 miles  from  the  Delaware,  with  which  it  has  a 
navigable  communication.  It  is  28  miles  S.  W.  of  Philadelphia,  and  70 
N.  E.  of  Baltimore.  The  position  is  high,  airy  and  pleasant.  The 
number  of  its  public  buildings  is  9 or  10,  and  it  has  11  churches.  It  is 
supplied  with  water  from  the  Brandywine  by  water  works,  like  those  of 
Philadelphia.  There  is  a U.  S.  Arsenal  here,  and  the  Friends  have  a 
hoarding  school  of  celebrity.  A college  was  incorporated,  but  has 
never  gone  into  operation.  This  town  owns  more  than  10,000  tons  of 
shipping.  Its  staple  article  of  export  is  flour.  There  is  a bridge  over 
the  Brandywine,  and  one  over  the  Christiana,  connecting  it  on  each  side 
with  the  beautiful  surrounding  country,  in  which  it  situated.  The  cele- 
brated Brandywine  flour  mills  are  in  a village  a little  distant  from  the 
town.  These  flour  mills  were  formerly  I he  most  numerous  and  import- 
ant in  the  U.  S.  Those  in  Rochester,  New-York,  now  vie  with  them.' 
Within  10  miles  of  Wilmington  there  are  at  least  100  important  manu- 
factories, rendering  it  the  largest  manufacturing  district  in  the  Atlantic 
country  W.  of  Philadelphia.  Great  quantities  of  gun  powder  are  among 
the  articles  manufactured  The  population  in  1820  was  5,268.  The 


ATLANTIC  STATES, 


73 


census  of  1830  gives  it  6,620.  New  Castle  is  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  Delaware,  5 miles  from  Wilmington,  and  33  S.  W.  from 
Philadelphia.  It  contains  2 or  3 churches,  and  some  public  buildings. 
Before  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake  canal  went  into  operation,  this  used 
to  be  a place  of  embarkation  for  passengers  from  Philadelphia  on  board 
steam  boats  for  Baltimore.  Population  in  1830  1,000.  The  names  of 
the  other  considerable  villages  in  the  state,  follow.  Newport  near  Chris- 
tiana Creek  deals  extensively  in  flour.  Christiana  on  Christiana  Creek, 
5 miles  S.  W.  of  Newport,  has  a similar  trade.  Smyrna,  Milford, 
Georgetown,  and  Lewistown  near  Cape  Henlopen  light  house  are  towns 
of  some  importance. 

History.  This  state  was  first  settled  by  a colony  of  Swedes  and  Fins, 
ft  then  passed  under  the  authority  of  the  Dutch,  from  whom  it  was  trans- 
ferred to  the  English.  Afterwards  it  was  made  a part  of  the  peaceful 
domain  of  William  Penn.  Next  to  Rhode  Island,  it  has  the  smallest 
area  of  any  state  in  the  union. 


MARYLAND. 

Length  119  miles.  Breadth  9 L Containing  10,800  square  miles. 

Between  38°  and  39°  43'  N.  Latitude,  and  between  2°  31'  W.  and 
1°  58' E.  longitude.  Bounded  N.  by  Pennsylvania.  E.  by  Delaware 
and  the  Atlantic,  and  S.  by  Virginia. 

Counties.  Chief  Towns.  Alleghany,  Cumberland;  Ann  Arundel, 
Annapolis;  Baltimore,  Baltimore;  Calvert,  Prince  Frederickton ; Caro- 
line, Denton;  Charles,  Port  Tobacco;  Cecil,  Elkton , Dorchester, 
Cambridge;  Frederick,  Frederick  (city,)  Harford,  Belle  Air;  Kent, 
Chestertown,  Montgomery,  Rockville;  Prince  George,  Upper  Marlboro ; 
Queen  Ann,  Centreville;  St.  Mary,  Leonardtown ; Somerset,  Princess 
Anne;  Talbot,  Easton;  Washington,  Hagerstown;  Worcester,  Snoio 
HiU.  Population  in  1820  407,350— in  1830  446,913. 

Physical  aspect.  The  maritime  belt  of  this  state  is  penetrated  far 
into  the  interior  by  Chesapeake  Bay,  as  a vast  river,  dividing  it  into  2 
distinct  portions,  called  the  eastern  and  western  shore.  These  shores 
include  a level,  low  and  alluvial  country,  permeated  by  tide,  rivers  and 
creeks,  and  like  the  same  tracts  of  country  farther  south,  subject  to  inter- 
mitten ts.  The  genuine  white  wheat,  which  is  supposed  to  be  peculiar 
to  this  state,  is  raised  on  the  eastern  shore.  Above  the  tide  waters  the 
land  becomes  agreeably  undulating.  Beyond  this  commence  the  differ- 
ent ranges  of  the  Alleghanies  with  their  numerous  peaks  The  vallies 
Vol.  II.  10 


74 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


between  them  are  of  a loamy  and  rich  soil,  yielding  fine  wheat,  and  all 
the  productions  of  the  middle  states,  together  with  some  of  those  of  the 
southern  country.  The  national  road  passes  through  the  wide  and  fertile 
vallies,  in  which  Fredericktown  and  Hagerstown  are  situated,  being  broad 
belts  of  the  same  admirable  soil,  which  is  seen  in  Lancaster  county, 
Pennsylvania.  The  names  of  the  principal  ridges  are  South  Mountain, 
the  Blue  Ridge,  Ray’s  Hill,  Sideling  Hill,  Savage  Mountain,  Evit’s 
Hills  and  Alleghany  Mountains.  Between  these  mountains  and  hills 
are  clear  and  transparent  waters.  The  air  is  elastic  and  the  climate 
salubrious. 

Productions.  The  great  staple  of  this  state  is  wheat.  The  second 
staple  is  tobacco.  The  soil  and  climate  are  admirably  adapted  to  the 
cultivation  of  all  the  fruits  of  the  temperate  climates.  The  proportion  of 
hickory  trees  in  the  forests  is  greater  than  in  the  northern  states.  The 
woods  abound  in  that  production,  called  mast , on  which  the  swine  fatten. 
Sweet  potatoes  aie  raised  in  abundance,  and  some  cotton  for  domestic 
use.  In  the  swamps  the  cypress  is  common,  and  the  catalpa  is  indig- 
enous. 

Rivers.  The  Potomac,  which  divides  this  state  from  Virginia,  will 
be  described  under  the  head  of  that  state.  The  Susquehannah,  passing 
through  it,  has  already  been  described.  The  principal  rivers,  that  have 
their  courses  in  this  state,  are  the  Choptank,  which  rises  in  Delaware, 
and  falls  into  the  Chesapeake.  Nanticoke  rises  also  in  Delaware  from 
several  branches,  and  likewise  empties  into  the  Chesapeake.  Patapsco 
River  might  with  more  propriety  be  called  an  inlet.  Several  branches 
empty  into  Patapsco  creek,  which  falls  into  the  bay  about  three  miles 
below  Baltimore.  From  Baltimore  to  Chesapeake  Bay  the  Patapsco  affords 
good  navigation  for  vessels  of  a considerable  size.  Sassafras  River, 
Manokin,  Pocomoke,  Deer,  Brush,  Gunpowder  and  Black  rivers  are 
streams  with  short  courses,  that  empty  into  Chesapeake  Bay.  Severn 
empties  into  the  bay  at  Annapolis,  of  which  it  forms  the  harbor.  Patuxent 
river  falls  into  the  bay  30  miles  below  Annapolis.  A number  of  small 
streams  fall  in  the  Potomac  into  this  state.  Of  these  the  principal  are  St. 
Mary’s  Wicomico,  Port  Tobacco,  Matawoman,  Piscataway  and  Eastern 
Branch,  The  latter  stream  falls  into  the  Potomac  below  Washington. 
The  great  Cumberland  road  passes  over  the  Monococy,  Antietam  and 
Conococheague,  Beside  these,  Licking,  Conoloway,  Sideling  hill,  Town,, 
Evit’s  and  Will’s  creeks  rise  in  Pennsylvania,  and  run  into  this  state. 

Climate.  The  maritime  belt  of  this  state  belongs  rather  to  the  south- 
ern than  the  northern  states.  It  is  the  commencement  of  that  belt  of 
alluvial  plain,  which  spreads  to  the  remotest  extent  of  the  southern  coun- 
try. The  summer  climate  of  this  region  cannot  be  accounted  healthy. 


75 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 

the  waters  being  stagnant,  and  the  surface  yielding  forth  miasm.  The 
higher  portions  of  the  state  have  a salubrious  and  delightful  climate. 

Religion . The  Roman  Catholics  are  the  most  numerous  denomina 
tion.  The  other  sects  are  fairly  represented. 

Literature.  The  University  of  Maryland,  St.  Mary’s,  and  Baltimore 
college  are  all  in  Baltimore.  There  are  20  incorporated  academies  in 
the  state,  each  of  which  receives  $800  a year  from  the  state  treasury.  A 
law  appointing  primary  schools  and  general  instruction,  was  enacted  in 
1825;  but  has  not  been  carried  into  effect  so  extensively,  as  could  have 
been  ^desired.  The  university  of  Maryland  was  originally  a medical 
school.  An  academical  department  has  been  added.  It  has  a spacious 
and  elegant  building  and  ample  endowments;  and  the  medical  college  is 
highly  respectable  in  its  standing.  St.  Mary’s  college  a catholic  institu- 
tion, has  a number  of  buildings,  considerable  endowments,  and  about  150 
students,  much  younger  than  the  members  of  colleges  in  general.  At- 
tached to  the  institution  is  a theological  seminary. 

. Exports.  In  and  about  Baltimore,  and  in  the  richer  and  more  popu- 
lous districts  west  of  it  the  products  of  the  customary  American  manu 
factures  are  very  respectable  in  amount.  But  Maryland,  being,  a slave 
owning  state,  is  chiefly  devoted  to  agriculture.  The  principal  exports 
are  flour,  tobacco,  pig  iron,  some  lumber,  and  grain.  They  amounted 
in  1829  to  $4,804,465.  The  shipping  was  170,947  tons. 

Roads  and  Canals.  There  are  a number  of  long  turnpikes  in  the 
state ; particularly  one  connecting  with  the  national  or  Cumberland  road , 
and  constituting  the  great  thoroughfare  to  the  western  country. 

The  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  commences  at  the  Potomac  in  the 
Federal  city,  and  proceeds  along  the  river  near  the  limits  of  Maryland 
and  Virginia;  and  is  laid  out  to  pass  through  the  highlands,  and  over 
the  Alleghanies,  not  far  from  the  route  of  the  great  national  road,  to 
meet  the  Ohio  at  or  near  Pittsburgh.  Among  the  three  great  national 
works,  to  connect  the  Atlantic  waters  with  the  Ohio,  and  two  of  which 
are  nearly  completed,  this  is  by  no  means  the  least  stupendous.  In 
fertility  of  the  country  through  which  it  will  pass,  in  the  romantic 
grandeur  of  the  scenery,  and  in  the  importance  of  the  results  that  may 
be  expected,  it  will  probably  equal  either.  An  unfortunate  litigation 
between  this  corporation  and  that  of  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail  way 
has  retarded  the  progress  of  this  canal.  About  50  miles  of  the  route 
are  completed.  The  whole  surveys  have  been  made,  and  various  exca- 
vatious  on  the  line  beyond  commenced.  A lateral  cut  from  Frederick- 
town  to  this  canal  has  been  authorized,  and  surveyed  by  the  state.  The 
whole  length  of  the  route,  when  completed,  must  considerably  exceed 
390  miles. 


76 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  Rail  Road  is  bv  far  the  most  stupendous 
national  work  of  the  kind  ever  undertaken  in  this  or  any  other  country. 
The  length  of  the  route  must  be  nearly  300  miles.  The  elevation  to  be 
overcome,  on  the  highest  central  point  of  the  line  above  the  termination 
at  Baltimore,  is  885  feet.  From  Baltimore  to  Cumberland  the  inclina- 
tion will  be  about  15  feet  and  10  inches  a mile;  and  thence  to  the  Ohio 
about  5 feet  2 inches  a mile.  The  route  from  Baltimore  to  the  Potomac, 
of  60  miles,  will  have  but  a single  summit  requiring  stationary  power. 
Thence  up  the  Potomac  valley,  a route  120  miles  farther  will  require  none. 
The  first  section  of  the  road  to  Ellicott’s  Mills,  on  the  Patapsco,  13  miles 
from  the  city,  has  been  finished  some  time,  and  other  sections  are  in  a 
state  of  progress  near  to  completion.  On  this  route  every  mode  of  pas- 
sage by  horse-car  power,  and  locomotive  steam-car  power,  and  wind  power 
by  sails  has  been  adopted.  Although  the  speed  of  a mile  in  a minute, 
which  has  been  effected  on  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester  rail  way,  has 
not  been  attempted  on  this,  half  that  distance  has  often  been  attained. 
A single  steam  car  will  transport  8 cars  and  150  passengers  the  distance 
of  13  miles  in  about  30  minutes,  a speed  and  power  as  great  as  could  be 
desired.  To  judge  of  the  capabilities  of  such  a railway,  we  state  a fact 
in  relation  to  the  Liverpool  and  Manchester  rail  road.  The  distance  be- 
tween the  two  towns  is  32  miles.  An  entire  ship’s  cargo,  consisting  of 
1,200  bales  of  cotton,  was  conveyed  by  two  engines  from  Liverpool  to 
Manchester  in  two  hours! 

The  route  of  this  stupendous  undertaking  is  through  a country  abound- 
ing in  every  variety  of  splendid  scenery,  that  mountains,  vallies,  cascades, 
rivers,  forests,  and  the  wildness  cf  nature  in  her  mountainous  retreats  can 
furnish.  Neither  Alexander,  Hannibal,  or  Napoleon  ever  meditated  a 
more  gigantic  undertaking.  What  a conception  to  imagine  the  thousands 
of  teams  that  will  travel  on  this  road,  each  conveying  half  a ship  load, 
continually  gliding  along  the  iron  mil  way,  bound  in  opposite  directions, 
propelled  along  their  everlasting  course  up  the  hills  and  down  the  vallies, 
by  a power  apparently  as  untiring  as  the  rivers  that  roll  by,  or  the  lapse 
of  time,  and  with  a flight  almost  to  emulate  the  eagle  soaring  above ! 
The  expense  of  the  route,  where  it  has  been  completed  and  double 
tracked,  exceeds  the  average  of  $40,000  a mile.  The  average  expense 
of  the  whole  route  will  be  much  less.  The  Carrollton  viaduct  on  the 
route  is  a stupendous  work,  and  supposed  to  be  the  noblest  piece  of  mason 
work  which  our  country  can  show.  The  Jackson  Bridge,  Deep  Cut, 
Great  Embankment,  Gadsby’s  Run  Viaduct,  Patterson  Viaduct,  and  the 
cut  through  Buzzard’s  Rock  are  vast  works  already  accomplished.  What 
sublime  views  will  the  whole  route  over  the  Alleghanies  and  to  the  Ohio 
furnish ! 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


• 77 

A rail  road  from  York -Haven  to  the  Susquehannah  has  been  undertaken 
by  the  legislature  of  Maryland.  The  distance  is  60  miles,  and  the  esti- 
mated cost  7,500  dollars  a mile.  This  will  connect  with  the  Susquehan- 
nah  and  Philadelphia  Rail  Road.  The  French  Town  and  New  Castle 
Rail  Road  is  laid  out,  and  the  stock  taken.  Various  other  rail  ways  are 
in  contemplation.  When  these  great  works  shall  be  completed,  Maryland 
will  probably  come  in  for  her  full  share  of  the  trade  of  the  western  country. 
Both  the  great  canal  and  rail  way  routes  traverse  a country  of  great  fertil- 
ity, abounding  in  exhaustless  beds  of  coal  and  iron  ore.  Marble  and  free 
stone  sufficient  to  build  up  all  the  cities  in  the  Union,  abound  on  the 
route.  No  elements  of  national  wealth  can  well  be  imagined,  that  these 
works  are  not  calculated  to  develop  to  an  unlimited  extent. 

Chief  Towns.  Baltimore,  the  commercial  capital  of  Maryland,  is1  the 
third  city  in  the  Union  in  point  of  population  and  extent.  It  is  situated 
on  the  north  shore  of  the  Patapsco,  14  miles  above  its  entrance  into 
Chesapeake  Bay,  180  S.  W.  of  New  York,  100  S.  W.  of  Philadelphia, 
and  37  N.  E.  of  W ashington.  No  Atlantic  city  has  had  so  rapid  a growth. 
It  naturally  commands  the  trade  of  a great  and  growing  interior  country, 
comprising  Maryland,  parts  of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  and  the  western 
country.  Vessels  of  600  tons  can  come  to  the  wharves  at  Old  Town  and 
Fell’s  Point.  But  vessels  over  200  tons  burden  cannot  come  quite  up  to 
the  compact  part  of  the  city  shore.  Six  or  seven  bridges,  some  of  them 
elegant  and  of  stone,  connect  Old  Town  with  the  city.  In  other  respects 
the  harbor  is  admirably  adapted  for  trade,  and  is  remarkable  for  the  num- 
ber of  vessels  that  arrive  and  depart.  The  mouth  of  the  harbor  is  a strait 
effectually  guarded  by  Fort  McHenry.  The  marshes  in  and  about  the 
city  have  been  filled  up,  and  various  improvements  for  health  and  utility 
adopted,  among  which  may  be  mentioned  supplying  the  city  with  water 
from  public  fountains. 

The  area  of  the  town  is  a square  of  4 miles,  divided  into  12  wards. 
It  contains  25  public  buildings,  and  40  places  of  worship,  in  which  the 
common  denominations  are  all  represented. 

The  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  is  a spacious  and  magnificent  building, 
the  largest,  it  is  believed,  in  the  United  States.  A beautiful  painting  of 
the  taking  of  Christ  from  the  Cross  is  shown  in  it.  The  Unitarian 
church  is  a large  and  beautiful  one,  as  is  St.  Paul’s  church.  The 
Exchange  is  a vast  building  366  feet  by  140,  with  4 wings.  The 
Athenceum  is  a spacious  and  beautiful  structure.  The  Union  Bank  is 
one  of  the  most  showy  buildings  of  the  kind.  The  Penitentiary  is  on  a 
great  scale,  and  under  excellent  management.  The  hospital  is  distin- 
guished for  the  extent  and  excellence  of  its  anatomical  apparatus,  having 
generally  from  150  to  200  patients-  Among  the  conspicuous  objects  are 


78 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


its  monuments.  The  Washington  Monument  is  a marble  column  in 
Howard  Park,  175  feet  high.  The  base  or  pedestal  is  50  feet  square, 
and  20  feet  high,  and  the  column  14  feet  in  diameter  at  the  summit,  and 
20  at  the  foot.  The  Battle  Monument  is  raised  in  memory  of  those  who 
fell  in  defence  of  the  city  in  the  British  attack  of  1814.  At  the  corner 
of  Front  and  Pitt  streets  is  a shot  tower,  the  most  conspicuous  object  in  a 
distant  view  of  the  city.  It  is  234  feet  high.  Barnum’s  Hotel  is  one  of 
the  most  splendid  in  the  United  States,  being  223  feet  front,  by  100  in 
depth.  The  Public  Fountain  is  a spring  fountain  of  water  in  the  western 
part  of  the  city  shaded  with  trees,  and  surrounded  by  a public  square. 
In  the  sultry  months  it  is  a place  of  great  resort.  Baltimore  has  been  so 
recently  settled,  that  its  vicinity  is  more  wooded,  and  has  scenery  of  more 
freshness  than  surrounds  American  cities  in  general.  The  approaches  to 
it  are  of  surpassing  beauty ; and  in  regard  to  position,  and  the  configura- 
tion of  its  area  for  convenience,  show  or  having  its  streets  cleaned  by  the 
rains  no  place  in  America  exceeds  it.  A considerable  part  of  the  city  is 
built  up  with  the  same  regularity  as  Philadelphia.  A great  number  of 
the  houses  are  elegant,  and  on  the  whole  the  city  of  monuments  strikes 
the  eye  of  a stranger  as  a beautiful  place.  It  issues  7 or  8 gazettes,  and 
has  100  considerable  manufactories  of  one  kind  or  another.  In  1830 
were  inspected  577,804  barrels  of  wheat  flour,  4,436  barrels  rye  flour, 
558  hogsheads,  and  5,458  barrels  of  corn  meal.  Population,  in  1820, 
62,738.  In  1830,  80,519.  Annapolis  is  the  political  metropolis  of  the 
state,  and  is  situated  on  the  western  side  of  the  estuary  of  the  Severn, 
28  miles  S.  E.  of  Baltimore,  and  40  N.  E.  of  Washington.  It  has  a 
spacious  and  elegant  court  house,  which  is  the  only  conspicuous  building 
in  it.  It  has  2 churches,  and  about  3,000  inhabitants.  Fredericktown, 
on  a branch  of  the  Monococy,  is  a large  and  pleasant  interior  town,  45 
miles  W.  of  Baltimore,  and  43  N.  W.  of  Washington.  It  contains  6 
public  buildings  and  7 churches.  Intermixed  with  the  beautiful  and 
spacious  private  and  public  buildings  are  not  a few  log  houses,  memorials 
of  the  recent  woods,  from  which  their  timber  was  hewn.  It  is  a peculi- 
arity in  the  modes  of  this  place,  that  the  marketing  is  finished  before 
sunrise.  It  is  in  the  centre  of  a very  pleasant  and  fertile  country;  and 
when  the  Chesapeake  and  Ohio  Canal  shall  be  finished,  will  have  a direct 
boatable  water  communication  with  the  Chesapeake.  It  issues  4 gazettes, 
and  has  between  4 and  6,000  inhabitants.  Hagerstown  is  a very  neat 
town,  regularly  laid  out  on  Antietam  Creek.  It  contains  4 public  build- 
ings, and  4 houses  of  public  worship,  2 of  which  are  handsome.  The 
town  is  built  chiefly  of  wood  or  stone.  Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  Ger- 
mans. It  issues  2 gazettes,  and  has  about  4,000  inhabitants.  Cumberland 
is  a considerable  village  on  the  N.  bank  of  the  Potomac,  at  the  commence- 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


79 


went  of  the  national  road.  It  is  70  miles  W.  of  Hagerstown,  and  130 
E.  of  Wheeling.  It  contains  4 public  buildings,  and  4 churches.  An 
immense  abundance  of  stone  coal  is  found  in  the  vicinity.  Hancock,  on 
the  most  northern  bend  of  the  Potomac,  near  the  Pennsylvania  line,  is 
also,  as  well  as  the  three  last  mentioned  towns,  on  the  National  Road, 
and  is  an  important  village.  The  names  of  the  other  considerable  villages 
in  this  state  follow:  Elkton,  Frenchtown,  Charlestown,  Chestertown, 
Easton,  Middleton,  Salisbury,  Princess  Anne,  and  Snowhill.  These  are 
on  the  eastern  shore:  Havre  de  Grace,  Belle-Air,  Harford,  Bladensburgb, 
Port  Tobacco  and  Leonardtown  are  on  the  western  shore. 

Manners  of  the  People.  Maryland  was  originally  a Roman  Catholic 
settlement,  made  by  lord  Baltimore.  Deep  traces  of  the  influence  of  the 
Roman  Catholic  worship  are  inwrought  into  the  manners  of  the  people. 
The  effect  of  slavery  on  a large  scale  is  first  perceptible  as  we  advance 
south  in  this  state.  The  educated  citizens  have  a generous  frankness  of 
manners,  exceedingly  attractive  to  strangers,  and  worthy  of  all  praise. 

District  of  Columbia.  This  is  a tract  ten  miles  square  on  both  sides  of 
the  Potomac,  under  the  peculiar  jurisdiction  of  the  general  government, 
and  is  the  seat  of  that  government.  It  contains  two  counties,  Washing 
ton,  Washington  and  Georgetown;  Alexandria,  Alexandria.  Popula- 
tion in  1820,  33,039.  In  1830,  39,588. 

Washington,  the  metropolis  of  the  United  States  is  situated  on  the  Ma- 
ryland side  of  the  Potomac,  by  the  curves  of  the  river  and  the  bay  295 
miles  from  the  Atlantic,  about  intermediate  between  it  and  the  Ohio,  and 
not  far  from  intermediate  between  the  northern  and  southern  divisions  of 
the  union;  in  38°  57'  N.  L.  and  77°  2'  W.  L.  from  Greenwich.  Its  po- 
sition is  between  the  Eastern  Branch  and  the  Potomac.  Rock  Creek 
divides  it  from  Georgetown,  with  which  it  is  connected  by  4 bridges;  and 
the  Potomac  separates  it  from  Alexandria,  with  which  it  is  connected  by 
a bridge  of  more  than  a mile  in  length.  A canal  following  the  course  of 
the  Tyber,  a small  stream  that  runs  through  Washington,  connects  the 
Potomac  with  the  Eastern  Branch.  The  space,  on  which  the  city  is 
built,  is  high,  airy,  commanding  and  salubrious;  and,  as  but  a small  part 
of  it  is  yet  covered  with  buildings  has  the  aspect  of  a succession  of 
opulent  villages  in  the  midst  of  the  country.  The  original  plan 
was  a regular,  but  a singular,  one.  The  streets  were  laid  out  to 
radiate  in  right  lines  from  the  capitol,  as  a centre.  This  plan  has 
been  but  imperfectly  carried  out.  Some  of  the  smaller  streets  are  desig- 
nated by  the  letters  of  the  alphabet.  It  presents  the  appearance  of  3 
distinct  villages,  the  navy  yard  village,  Capitol  hill  village ; and  the  Penn 
sylvania  Avenue,  which  is  the  most  showy  and  compact  part  of  the 
city.  The  Capitol  presents  an  imposing  mass  of  352  feet  front,  and  the 


so 


ATLANTIC  STATES® 


wings  121  feet  in  depth.  The  eastern  projection  is  65  feet  and  the 
western  88.  The  building  covers  nearly  an  acre  and  three  quarters. 
The  centre  of  the  dome  is  95  feet  high.  It  is  handsomely  terraced  in 
front,  and  occupies  a hill,  which  renders  it  a conspicuous  object  for  sev- 
eral miles  in  the  distance.  It  is  built  of  beautiful  freestone,  adorned 
with  massive  stone  columns  in  different  styles  of  architecture.  It  is  too 
large  to  have  its  proportions  fully  apprehended  by  the  eye,  when  viewed 
near  at  hand.  It  is  seen  in  the  best  light  at  the  distance  of  half  a mile, 
and  its  white  columns  illumined  by  the  mild  radiance  of  the  setting  sun. 
The  representatives’s  chamber  is  a magnificent  semicircular  apartment, 
supported  by  bluish  polished  stone  columns,  lighted  from  above.  The 
greatest  length  of  the  representative’s  room  is  95  feet.  The  senate  cham- 
ber is  a similar,  but  smaller  apartment  74  feet  in  length.  The  height  of 
the  former  is  60  feet,  and  that  of  the  latter  only  40.  In  the  centre  of  the 
building  is  the  Rotunda,  96  feet  in  diameter,  and  the  same  number  of 
feet  in  height.  It  is  ornamented  with  national  paintings,  representing 
the  surrender  at  Saratoga  and  Yorktown,  the  declaration  of  Indepen- 
dence, and  Washington  resigning  his  commission.  Each  of  these  paint- 
ings is  12  feet  by  18.  There  are  also  relievo^  in  marble  representing 
Pocahontas  rescuing  Captain  Smith  from  death,  the  landing  of  the  pil- 
grims at  Plymouth,  one  of  Penn’s  treaties  with  the  Indians,  and  a battle 
between  Boone  and  two  Indians.  This  noble  and  magnificent  apartment 
is  of  white  marble,  and  lighted  from  the  dome.  Men  on  the  pediment 
seem  dwindled  to  atoms,  and  the  slightest  noise  creates  echoes,  which  re- 
verberate upon  the-  ear  with  a grand  and  surprising  effect.  Its  solitude, 
during  the  recess  of  congress,  gives  these  deafening  echoes  a peculiar 
impressiveness.  It  would  require  no  great  effort  of  the  imagination,  to 
suppose  them  the  shades  of  the  interminable  speeches  uttered  during  the 
session  lingering  behind,  in  the  absence  of  the  orators,  like  clouds , in  the 
phrase  of  scripture,  returning  after  the  rain.  A most  splendid  view  is 
enjoyed  from  the  top  of  the  capitol,  commanding  a vast  sweep  of  country, 
the  noble  Potomac,  and  handsome  mansions  embowered  in  the  distant 
groves.  The  beautiful  area,  in  which  the  Capitol  is  situated,  is  sur- 
rounded by  an  avenue  of  young  trees,  which  will  soon  give  the  softening 
of  verdure  and  shade  to  the  view  of  this  imposing  structure.  The  whole 
expense  of  the  Capitol  and  appurtenances  was  not  far  from  $2,000,000. 
The  President’s  house  is  an  elegant  mansion,  170  feet  front,  and  85 
deep,  and  built  of  the  same  material  with  the  Capitol.  The  entrance 
hall  leads  into  the  drawing  room,  where  are  the  levees,  upon  which  occa- 
sions two  other  magnificent  apartments  are  thrown  open,  all  easily  ac- 
cessible to  strangers.  The  offices  for  the  departments  of  state  are  4 
spacious  brick  edifices,  in  which  are  kept  the  papers,  records,  archives 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


81 


and  offices  of  the  several  departments.  The  general  post  office  is  a large 
brick  edifice,  nearly  a mile  northwest  of  the  Capitol,  in  which  are  kept 
the  offices  of  the  post  office  establishment,  the  general  land  office,  and  the 
patent  office,  in  which  more  than  2,000  patents  are  shown,  among  which 
are  a great  many  useful  and  useless  inventions.  The  Navy  Yard  is  sit- 
uated on  the  Eastern  Branch,  and  has  all  the  appurtenances  for  building 
ships  of  the  largest  size,  The  city  hall  is  251  feet  long  by  50  in  breadth. 
Congress’  library  is  now  kept  in  the  Capitol,  and  contains  from  8 to 
10,000  volumes.  The  Columbian  college  has  an  extent  of  117  feet  by 
47,  is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  is  a lofty  building,  calculated  to 
accommodate  100  students.  There  are  a number  of  other  public  build- 
ings, and  14  houses  for  public  worship.  Population  13,823. 

Georgetown  is  separated  from  Washington  by  Rock  Creek,-  and  from 
its  proximity  seems  to  the  eye  to  make  a.  part  of  the  city.  It  contains  8 
public  buildings  and  5 churches.  It  is  a handsomely  built  and  flour- 
ishing town  with  considerable  trade.  It  contains  a respectable  Catholic 
literary  institution,  called  Georgetown  college,  which  has  two  spacious 
edifices,  containing  a library  of  7,000  volumes,  and  having  an  average 
number  of  150  students.  Population  8,441. 

Alexandria  is  included  in  the  District  of  Columbia,  though  6 miles 
distant  from  Washington,  and  the  Potomac  interposing  between  them 
in  passing  to  it  from  Washington,  with  a bridge  over  it  more  than  a 
mile  in  length.  The  remaining  distance  is  an  almost  uninhabited 
plain.  It  contains  12  or  15  public  buildings,  and  8 churches.  The 
streets  are  regular  and  the  squares  rectangular.  It  is  favorably  situated 
for  commerce,  at  the  head  of  tide  water  on  the  Potomac.  The  amount 
of  its  trade  is  respectable,  and  it  has  between  15  and  16,000  tons  of 
shipping.  The  progress  of  this  neat  and  ancient  town  has  been  for  a 
long  time  almost  stationary.  It  is  expected  that  the  Ohio  and  Chesa- 
peake canal,  with  which  it  is  connected,  will  communicate  to  it  a new  im 
pulse  of  prosperity.  Population  in  1820,  8,216.  In  1830,  8,221. 


VIRGINIA. 

Length  320  miles;  breadth  200;  containing  64,000  square  miles. 
Between  36°  40'  and  40°  39'  N.  L.;  and  6°  34'  W.,  and  1°  20'  E.  L. 
Bounded  N.  by  Pennsylvania  and  Maryland;  E.  by  the  Atlantic;  S.  by 
North  Carolina  and  Tennessee;  W.  by  Kentucky;  N.  W.  by  Ohio, 

VOL.  II  11 


82 


ATLANTIC  . STATES. 


Counties.  Chief  Towns. 

Accomac,  Accomac  C.  H. ; 
Albemarle,  Charlottesville ; 
Alleghany,  Covington  ; 

Amelia,  Amelia; 

Amherst,  Amherst ; 

Augusta,  Staunton; 

Bath,  Hot  Springs; 

Bedford,  Liberty; 

Berkley,  Martinsburgh ; 

Botetount,  Fincastle; 

Brooke,  Wellsburgh; 

Brunswick,  Lawrenceville; 
Buckingham,  Buckingham; 
Cabell,  Cabell  C.  H.; 

Campbell,  Lynchburgh; 

Caroline,  Bowling  Green ; 

Charles  City,  Charles  City  C.  II. ; 
Charlotte,  Charlotte  C.  H.  ; 
Chesterfield,  Chesterfield  C.  H.; 
Culpepper,  Culpepper  C.  H. ; 
Cumberland,  Cumberland  C.  H.; 
Dinwiddie,  Dinwiddie  C.  IL; 
Elizabeth  City,  Hampton; 

Essex,  Tappahannoc ; 

Fairfax,  Fairfax  C.  H.; 

Fauquier,  Warrenton; 

Flucanna,  Columbia; 

Franklin,  Rocky  Mount  ;, 
Frederic,  Winchester; 

Giles,  Giles  C.  H.; 

Gloucester,  Gloucester  C.  II. ; 
Goochland,  Goochland  C.  H.; 
Grayson,  Grayson  C.  H.; 
Greenbriar,  Greenbriar  C.  H.; 
Greenville,  Hicksford  ; 

Halifax,  Halifax  C.  II.; 
Hampshire,  Romney; 

Hanover,  Hanover  C.  H.; 

Hardy,  Moorefields; 

Harrison,  Clarksburgh; 

Henrico,  Richmond; 


Counties.  Chief  Towns. 

Henry,  Martinsville ; 

James  City,  Williamsburgh ; 
Jefferson,  Charlestown ; 

Kenhawa,  Kenhawa  C.  H. ; 

King  & Queen,  King  & Queen  C H. 
King  George,  King  George  C.  H. ; 
King  William,  King  William  C.  H. 
Lancaster,  Lancaster  C.  IL; 

Lee,  Jonesville; 

Lewis,  Weston; 

Logan,  Logan  C.  II. ; 

Loudon,  Leesburgh ; 

Louisa,  Louisa  C.  II.  ; 
Lunenburgh,  Lunenburgh  C.  II. ; 
Madison,  Madison; 

Mason,  Point  Pleasant; 

Matthews,  Matthews  C.  II . ; 
Mecklenburgh,  Boydton; 
Middlesex,  Urbana; 

Monongalia,  Morgantown ; 
Monroe,  Union; 

Montgomery,  Christiansburgh ; 
Morgan,  Oakland; 

Nansemond,  Suffolk; 

Nelson,  Lovington; 

New  Kent;  New  Kent  C.  H. ; 
Nicholas,  Nicholas  C.  H.  ; 

Norfolk,  Norfolk; 

Northampton,  Eastville; 
Northumberland,  Northumberland ; 
Nottaway,  Nottaway  C.  II. ; 

Ohio,  Wheeling; 

Orange,  Orange; 

Patric,  Patric  C.  H.; 

Pendleton,  Franklin; 

Pittsylvania,  Pittsylvania  C.  H. 
Pocahontas,  Huntersville; 
Powhatan,  Scottsville; 

Preston,  Kingwood; 

Prince  Edward,  Prince  Edward; 
Prince  George,  City  Point; 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


S3 


Princess  Anne,  Princess  Anne  C H; Stafford,.  Stafford; 


Prince  William,  Brentsville; 
Randolph,  Beverly; 

Richmond,  Richmond  C.  H.  ; 
Rockbridge,  Lexington  ; 
Rockingham,  Harrisonburgh  ; 
Russell,  Lebanon; 

Scott,  Estillville; 

Shenandoah,  Woodstock; 
Southampton,  Jerusalem; 
Spottsyl vania,  Fredericksburgh ; 


Surry,  Surry  C.  H.; 

Sussex,  Sussex  C.  H. ; 

Tazewell,  Tazewell  C.  H. ; 

Tyler,  Middlebourne  ; 

Warwick,  Warwick  C.  H. ; 
Washington,  Abingdon; 
Westmoreland,  Westmoreland  C IT ; 
Wood,  Parkersburgh  ; 

Wythe,  Wythe  C.  H.; 

York,  Yorktown. 

Population  in  1820,  1,065,386.  In  1830,  1,211,266. 

Physical  Aspect . A wide  maritime  belt  from  the  shore  of  the  sea  to 
the  head  of  tide  waters,  is  of  maritime  formation,  low,  level,  sandy,  and 
not  rich,  except  the  alluvial  borders  of  the  rivers,  which  have  a loamy  and 
fertile  soil,  producing  the  rankest  vegetation.  This  district,  during  the 
sultry  months,  is  exposed  to  intermittents  and  bilious  complaints.  Thence 
to  the  Blue  Ridge  is  level,  inclining  to  undulating,  and  from  that  to  a 
rough  surface.  The  vallies  between  the  mountains  are  generally  fertile* 
It  has  been  remarked,  that  the  rich  and  the  poor  counties  of  the  state  lie 
in  parallel  belts.  But  in  such  a wide  tract  of  country,  stretching  from 
the  sea  across  the  Atlantic  belt,  over  the  mountains,  and  thence  to  the 
Ohio,  embracing  more  than  half  the  breadth  of  the  Union,  and  comprising 
every  variety  of  sea  plain,  alluvial  plain,  mountain  table  summits,  and 
cedar  declivities,  deep  vallies,  and  large  districts  of  the  Ohio  valley,  and 
every  quality  of  soil  from  the  best  to  the  worst,  every  diversity  of  config- 
uration might  naturally  be  expected  to  be  found.  We  have  already 
spoken  of  Western  Virginia.  Atlantic  Virginia  will  compare  favorably, 
as  to  fertility  of  soil,  with  the  states  south  of  her.  The  mountain  peaks 
of  the  Alleghanies,  which  run  through  the  state  as  in  Pennsylvania,  are 
the  Blue  Ridge,  the  Peaks  of  Otter,  North  Mountain,  Clinch,  Cumber- 
land, Chesnut  Ridge,  and  Gauley  Mountains. 

Rivers.  The  principal  Atlantic  Rivers  are  Potomac,  Shenandoah, 
Rappahannoc,  Mattapony,  Pamnuky,  York,  James,  Rivanna,  Appomat- 
toxe,  Elizabeth,  Nottaway,  Meherrin,  Staunton  and  Roanoke. 

The  Potomac  rises  among  the  Alleghany  Mountains.  It  runs  a N. 
E.  course  approaching  Pennsylvania,  receives  the  Shenandoah,  and  makes 
its  celebrated  pass  through  South  Mountain.  At  the  city  of  Washington 
it  is  over  a mile  in  width.  It  empties  into  Chesapeake  Bay  about  90 
miles  below  the  city.  Its  course,  including  its  curves,  is  between  3 and 
400  miles.  In  its  whole  length  it  constitutes  the  boundary  between 
Maryland  and  Virginia.  James  River  rises  in  the  same  range  of  moun~ 


84 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


tains,  60  miles  S.  of  the  sources  of  the  Potomac.  It  breaks  through 
three  ridges  of  mountains  in  its  course,  and  falls  into  the  Chesapeake 
near  Norfolk.  It  meets  the  tide  at  Richmond,  and  its  whole  course  is 
over  300  miles.  Artificial  improvements  have  rendered  more  than  200 
miles  of  this  distance  boatable.  Roanoke  rises  in  the  Alleghanies  near 
the  sources  of  James  River,  and  pursuing  a S.  E.  direction,  enters  North 
Carolina.  Rappahannoc  rises  in  the  Blue  Mountains  from  two  branches, 
which  unite  below  Fredericksburgh.  It  falls  into  Chesapeake  Bay  90 
miles  below  that  place.  York  River  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  Matta' 
pony  and  Pamunky,  27  miles  above  York,  and  falls  into  Chesapeake 
Bay  15  miles  below  that  town.  Large  vessels  ascend  it  to  the  junction 
of  the  two  streams.  Roanoke  River  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the 
Dan  and  Staunton,  and  runs  100  miles  in  this  state,  before  it  passes  into 
North  Carolina.  Shenandoah  rises  near  Staunton,  and  winds  near  the 
base  of  the  Blue  Mountain,  uniting  with  the  Potomac  immediately  before 
its  passage  through  the  Blue  Ridge.  The  Potomac  South  Branch  rises 
in  the  Alleghanies,  anti  after  a N.  E.  course  of  100  miles,  unites  with  the 
other  branch  below  Old  Town,  This  state  is  traversed  by  so  many  con- 
siderable streams,  that  pursue  parallel  courses  through  the  level  Atlantic 
belt,  and  the  navigation  of  these  streams  has  been  so  much  improved  by 
artificial  means,  that  most  of  the  transport  of  the  state  is  by  water,  and 
commerce  is  in  this  way  brought  to  the  doors  of  the  people. 

Productions.  In  this  medial  climate,  and  this  formation  of  sea,  river, 
and  detritus  of  mountains,  embracing  all  varieties  of  elevation,  from  the 
low  sand  plain,  on  a level  with  the  sea,  to  the  Alpine  heights  of  the  moun- 
tains, a rich  flora  would  naturally  be  expected.  In  passing  from  Norfolk 
to  the  Ohio,  a naturalist  will  detect  most  of  the  trees,  shrubs,  and  plants, 
that  can  be  found  in  North  America.  The  unlearned  traveller  over  the 
Alleghanies  will  be  struck  with  the  view  of  strange  plants  and  flowers  in 
the  vernal  months,  which  will  impress  him  with  the  pleasure  of  surprise 
from  the  novelty  of  their  form,  scent  and  hues.  This  is,  probably,  the 
richest  region  in  the  Union  in  medicinal  plants.  Among  those  most 
abundant  and  best  known,  are  ginseng  and  snake  root.  To  the  produc- 
tions common  to  the  northern  and  middle  states,  this  state  adds  the  sweet 
potatoe,  the  finest  tobacco,  and  in  the  southern  parts  cotton,  as  a crop. 
The  productions  of  the  north  and  the  south , apples  and  wheat,  cotton  and 
tobacco  meet  here,  as  in  Tennessee  in  the  western  country.  The  temper- 
ature, soil,  and  circumstances,  are  supposed  to  be  favorable  in  the  highest 
degree  to  the  cultivated  grape  and  the  silk  mulberry. 

Minerals  and  Fossils.  In  these  respects  Virginia  is  considered  the 
richest  state  in  the  Union.  Quarries  of  the  most  beautiful  marble  and 
freestone,  blue  lime  stone,  pit  coal  and  iron  ore  are  found  in  inexhaustible 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


85 


abundance,  and  in  places  too  numerous  to  be  designated.  Black  lead, 
lead  ore,  rock  crystal,  amethysts  and  emeralds  are  discovered.  Porcelain 
clay  and  chalk  are  common,  and  almost  all  the  useful  fossils.  At  Bath, 
in  the  central  part  of  the  state,  are  the  Warm  Springs , the  ordinary  tem- 
perature of  which  is  96°  Fahr.  The  Hot  Springs , 6 miles  distant,  are 
112°,  and  varying  in  temperature,  will  sometimes  boil  an  egg.  The 
Sulphur  Springs  are  situated  among  the  mountains.  They  are  resorted 
to  by  rheumatic  patients  with  great  benefit.  The  Sweet  Springs  in  Bote- 
tourt county  are  strongly  charged  with  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  are  also  a 
place  of  resort.  The  elastic  air,  the  exciting  scenery,  and  the  exercise  of 
climbing  the  mountains,  probably  exert  more  salutary  influence  upon  the 
numerous  patients  that  resort  to  these  springs,  than  the  healing  efficacy  of 
the  waters.  The  public  are  sufficiently  informed,  that  an  extensive  belt 
of  hill  and  and  mountainous  country,  in  which  gold  is  found  in  every 
form,  commences  in  this  state,  nearly  in  the  midland  regions,  and  extends 
S.  W.  many  hundred  miles.  Although  this  state  is  not  the  richest  in 
these  newly  discovered  beds  of  gold,  yet,  as  the  belt  begins  here,  a few 
general  remarks  upon  the  gold  region  in  general  belong  to  this  place. 
Commencing  in  Virginia,  it  extends  S.  W.  through  North  Carolina, 
nearly  bisecting  the  state,  and  passing  through  the  northern  section  of 
South  Carolina,  and  thence  through  the  upper  part  of  Georgia  in  a N. 
W.  direction,  and  through  Alabama,  ending  in  Tennessee.  The  mines 
in  North  Carolina  and  Georgia  are  most  wrought.  In  North  Carolina, 
in  the  counties  of  Burke  and  Rutherford,  are  the  chief  sections  where 
gold  washing  is  practised.  In  Mecklenburgh,  Rowan,  Davidson,  and 
Cabarras,  in  North  Carolina,  are  'the  richest  gold  mines.  In  working 
these  mines  the  ore  is  perfectly  pulverised,  and  mixed  with  mercury, 
which  extracts  every  particle  of  it,  and  forms  an  amalgan.  The  mercury 
is  then  driven  off  in  an  alembic,  leaving  the  gold  perfectly  pure. 
The  gold  washing  is  a simple  and  easy  occupation ; but  the  mining 
requires  great  practical  knowledge  and  experience,  and  not  a little 
science.  The  sinking  shafts  and  forming  horizontal  perforations, 
or  fortifying  galleries  to  reach  the  veins,  are  operations  in  which,  without 
much  geological  knowledge,  money  and  labor  will  be  thrown  away  to  no 
purpose.  The  richest  veins  have  a dip  of  42  degrees  to  the  horizon,  and 
vary  in  width  from  a few  inches  to  several  feet.  They  are  not,  as  in  other 
countries,  confined  to  hills,  but  are  often  found  in  the  vallies.  The  veins 
are  often  parallel  to  each  other  at  unequal  distances.  Shafts  have  been 
sunk  to  the  depth  of  120  feet.  The  mines  have  not  been  worked  to  any 
extent  for  more  than  5 years. 

The  mills  for  grinding  the  ore,  are  propelled  by  water,  or  steam.  They 
are  in  great  numbers.  A single  establishment  employs  500  hands.  The 


86 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


whole  number  of  miners  is  estimated  to  be  over  20,000.  But  a small 
proportion  of  the  gold  reaches  the  United  States  mint.  The  greater  part 
is  sent  to  Europe,  particularly  to  Paris.  A considerable  proportion  of 
the  labouring  miners  are  foreigners.  Thirteen  languages  are  spoken  at 
the  chief  mines.  Most  of  them  can  earn  enough  in  three  days  of  the 
week  to  enable  them  to  spend  the  remaining  four  in  dissipation.  It 
may  be  imagined,  that  the  morals  of  such  miners,  perfectly  free  and 
unrestrained,  will  be  deplorably  bad.  The  opening  of  the  mines  indubit- 
ably proves,  that  they  were  known  in  past  ages.  Crucibles  and  other 
mining  instruments  have  been  repeatedly  discovered,  under  circumstan- 
ces to  preclude  the  possibility  of  their  having  been  left  there  by  descend- 
ants of  the  European  races.  The  largest  masses  of  solid  gold  have  been 
found  in  this  mining  district,  that  have  ever  been  discovered  in  value 
from  some  thousand  dollars  to  2 or  300.  Pieces  of  2 ounces  weight  are 
not  unfrequently  found.  They  are  of  unusual  fineness,  and  seem  to 
have  been  thrown  off  from  their  ores  by  fusion. 

Canals . Extensive  improvements  have  been  made  in  the  navigation 
of  the  Potomac,  Shenandoah,  and  James  Rivers,  by  dams  and  canals 
round  their  falls.  The  Board  of  public  works  have  reported  the  practi- 
cability of  connecting  James  River  with  the  Ohio  by  a canal.  The 
Chesapeake  and  Ohio  canal,  in  almost  its  whole  length,  is  between  this 
state  and  Maryland,  or  through  this  state.  The  Baltimore  and  Ohio  rail- 
way, it  is  calculated  will  pass  through  the  western  part  of  this  state.  The 
Dismal  Swamp  canal  opens  a water  intercommunication  between  this 
state  and  North  Carolina.  It  admits  vessels  of  7 feet  draught  and  90 
tons  burden;  and  is  twenty  two  and  a quarter  miles  in  length.  It  ren- 
ders an  immense  forest  of  valuable  cypress  timber  accessible.  The  state 
has  in  short  canals,  and  in  different  sections,  a total  of  120  miles  finished. 
There  are  a great  number  of  short  turnpike  roads;  but  the  country  east  of 
the  Alleghanies  is  so  level,  that  good  roads,  artificially  made  are  not  com- 
mon. The  capital  employed  in  internal  improvements  under  the  control 
of  the  Board  of  public  works,  is  $3,263,811. 

Climate.  In  a country  so  unequal  in  surface,  and  extending  from  the 
sea  to  the  Ohio,  it  is  obvious,  that  no  general  character  will  apply  to  the 
climate  of  the  whole  state.  The  district  south  of  the  Potomac  is  decidedly 
classed  in  the  southern  climate  of  the  United  States.  The  low,  maritime 
belt  has  a hot,  sultry  and  rather  unhealthy  summer;  but  a mild  and 
agreeable  winter.  The  air  near  the  mountains  is  more  pure  and  elastic. 
Among  the  mountains  snows  and  frosts  are  common  in  the  winter;  but 
the  summer  temperature  is  delightful. 

Curiosities.  This  state  abounds  in  caverns  of  vast  extent  and  variety. 
Too  numerous  to  be  given  in  detail  in  this  article.  The  tourist  generally 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


87 


commences  with  visiting  a point,  fertile  in  the  highest  possible  moral 
interest,  the  estate  of  Mount  Vernon,  and  the  tomb  of  Washington.  The 
estate  is  situated  9 miles  south  of  Alexandria,  and  in  a position  so  se- 
cluded, as  to  be  found  with  difficulty,  except  when  visited  by  a steam 
boat.  The  beautiful  lawn,  the  noble  trees  and  the  venerable  aspect  of 
the  mansion,  embosomed  among  woods  and  hills,  seem  precisely  the 
spot,  where  the  worthiest  statesman  and  general,  that  the  world  has  seen, 
should  have  found  the  repose  of  age  and  decline,  and  where  his  ashes 
ought  to  have  rested.  The  tomb  is  under  the  shade  of  a little  grove  of 
cedars  near  the  brow  of  the  precipitous  shore  of  the  Potomac,  humble, 
simple  and  unadorned,  and  from  that  very  circumstance  an  object  of  more 
sublime  interest.  Monticello,  the  abode  of  the  late  Thomas  Jefferson,  is 
a magnificent  hill,  80  miles  northwest  of  Richmond,  commanding  a 
boundless  prospect.  The  mansion  is  fitted  up  with  that  taste,  and  those 
classical  ornaments,  which  the  travelled  and  philosophic  statesman 
knew  so  well  to  collect  and  arrange.  __  The  natural  bridge  over  Cedar 
Creek,  12  miles  south  west  of  Lexington,  is  a sublime  curiosity.  The 
chasm,  through  which  the  river  passes  under  the  bridge,  is  90  feet  wide, 
and  250  deep.  The  bridge  is  60  feet  broad  at  the  middle  and  covered 
with  earth  and  trees.  To  look  down  from  this  immense  height  upon  the 
foaming  waters  below  inspires  in  common  minds  a revulsion  of  terror 
and  in  minds  of  more  self  possession  the  unmingled  sensation  of 
the  sublime.  At  Harper’s  ferry  is  another  sublime  spectacle.  Though 
a striking  scene,  the  spectator  has  formed  too  high  raised  ex- 
pectations from  reading  the  eloquent  description  of  nature’s  war  be- 
tween rivers  and  mountains  at  this  place  from  the  pen  of  Jefferson.  The 
tourist,  in  search  of  the  watering  places  and  beautiful  scenery,  takes  his 
departure  from  Lynchburg.  He  is  successively  brought  in  view  of  the 
impressive  peaks  of  Otter,  the  natural  bridge,  the  canal  through  the 
Blue  Ridge,  the  white  sulphur  springs,  the  sweet  springs,  the  salt  sulphur 
springs,  a place  of  resort  for  consumptive  patients,  the  hot  springs,  and 
the  warm  springs.  In  approaching  Staunton,  he  passes  the  Blowing 
cave;  and  beyond  Staunton  Weyer’s  cave,  one  of  the  most  imposing  sub- 
terranean curiosities  of  nature;  terminating  with  the  United  State’s 
manufactory  of  arms  at  Harper’s  ferry,  and  the  junction  of  the  Shenan- 
doah and  Potomac.  No  route  of  the  same  extent  in  our  country  pre- 
sents a greater  variety  of  picturesque  and  grand  scenery,  or  passes 
through  a pleasanter  country. 

Religion.  The  Baptists  are  by  far  the  most  numerous  denomination 
in  this  state.  A Baptist  report  of  1817  makes  the  number  of  their  con- 
gregations 314.  Presbyterians  and  Episcopalians  are  the  next  most 
numerous  denominations.  There  are  many  Methodist  societies,  30  or 


88 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


40  meetings  of  the  Friends,  a number  of  Roman  Catholic  congregations, 
some  Jewish  synagogues,  and  more  or  less  churches  of  all  the  different 
denominations. 

Education.  The  famous  University,  of  which  Mr.  Jefferson  was  the 
principal  founder,  is  at  Charlottesville.  It  is  amply  endowed,  and  the 
buildings  make  a splendid  show.  William  and  Mary  college  at  Williams- 
burg is  the  oldest  literary  institution  in  the  state.  It  has  graduated  a 
large  number  of  respectable  scholars  and  statesmen.  Hampden  Sydney 
in  Prince  Edward  county,  and  Washington  college  at  Lexington  are  re- 
spectable literary  institutions.  There  are  20  incorporated  academies 
The  state  has  a literary  fund  of  $1,233,522.  Other  contingent  funds 
are  added  to  the  avails  of  this.  $15,000  of  the  avails  of  the  fund  are  an- 
nually appropriated  to  the  university  of  Virginia,  and  15,000  to  the  edu- 
cation of  the  poor  in  the  respective  counties,  apportioned  among  them 
in  the  ratio  of  the  white  population.  In  1828  there  were  26,690  appli- 
cants for  the  benefit  of  this  fund,  and  12,642  recipients. 

Exports.  The  great  exports  of  Virginia  are  flour  and  tobacco.  Beside 
the  common  productions  of  the  north,  it  exports  some  cotton.  The  value 
of  the  produce  in  1828  was  $3,773,493,  and  the  state  owned  67,302  tons 
of  shipping.  In  1828-29,  34,359  hogsheads  of  tobacco  were  inspected. 

Chief  Towns.  Richmond  is  the  political  metropolis  of  Virginia,  and  is 
situated  on  the  north  bank  of  James  River,  just  below  the  falls,  150  miles 
from  its  mouth,  and  123  south  West  from  Washington.  The  situation  is 
alike  picturesque,  salubrious  and  beautiful.  The  position  is  favorable 
for  commerce,  it  being  the  natural  depot  of  tobacco,  wheat,  and  hemp, 
raised  in  the  populous  country  watered  by  the  river.  An  abundance  of 
mineral  coal  is  cheaply  conveyed  to  it.  It  contains  13  public  buildings, 
and  8 churches,  together  with  a number  of  respectable  manufactories. 
The  Capitol,  the  penitentiary,  and  the  beautiful  church  raised  on  the 
ruins  of  the  theatre,  in  the  conflagration  of  which  70  citizens  perished,  are 
beautiful  and  conspicuous  erections.  The  new  court  house  is  also  a 
spacious  and  elegant  building.  The  Virginia  armory  is  an  extensive  es- 
tablishment. The  river  has  been  rendered  boatable  220  miles  above  the 
city.  This  town  owns  a respectable  amount  of  shipping,  and  is  one  of 
the  most  flourishing  places  in  the  state.  Population  in  1820,  12,046.  In 
1830,  16,085.  Norfolk  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  Elizabeth  river. 
Eight  miles  from  its  estuary,  32  from  the  sea,  and  102  south  east  from 
Richmond.  It  contains  13  public  buildings,  and  6 churches.  The  far- 
mer’s bank,  the  orphan  asylum  and  the  Lancasterian  school  are  among  the 
most  conspicuous  buildings.  The  position  of  the  town  is  not  pleasant, 
being  low,  and  in  some  places  marshy;  but  it  affords  agreeable  society ? 
and  the  citizens  are  distinguished  for  their  hospitality.  It  has  a spacious 


ATLANTIC  STATE#. 


89 


and  commodious  harbor,  strongly  defended  by  3 forts.  It  has  more  mar- 
itime commerce  and  shipping,  than  any  other  town  in  the  state.  The 
handsome  marine  hospital  is  on  W ashington  point,  one  mile  distant.  On 
the  opposite  shore  of  this  river  is  the  town  of  Portsmouth,  and  a little’ far- 
ther up  the  river,  the  village  of  Gosport,  containing  an  extensive  United 
States  Navy  Yard,  with  all  the  customary  appurtenances.  Population  in 
1820,  8,478.  # In  1830,  9,800.  Petersburgh  is  situated  on  the  south 
bank  of  the  Appomattor,  just  below  the  falls,  12  miles  above  its  junction 
with  James’  river,  and  25  S.  E.  from  Richmond.  It  contains  7 public 
buildings,  15  tobacco  warehouses,  8 flour  mills,  and  five  churches.  It  is 
a neat  and  commercial  town,  dealing  largely  in  tobacco  and  flour.  It  is 
amply  supplied  with  good  water  - and  since  the  great  fire  of  1815,  in 
which  100  buildings  were  consumed,  it  has  been  handsomely  rebuilt 
with  brick.  Population  in  1820, 6,690.  In  1830,  8,300.  Fredericks- 
burgh  on  the  Rappahannoc,  110  miles  from  its  mouth,  is  a great  depot 
for  grain,  flour,  and  tobacco.  It  contains  8 public  buildings,  and  4 
churches.  There  are  a number  of  flour  mills  within  a short  distance  from 
the  town.  It  is  accessible  by  vessels  of  14Q*tons,  and  is  central  to  a 
fertile  and  well  cultivated  country,  and  circumstances  taken  together,  is 
one  of  the  most  flourishing,  healthy,  and  pleasant  towns  in  the  state. 
Population  about  5,000.  Williamsburg  is  situated  between  York  and 
James  river,  60  miles  east  from  Richmond,  and  was  formerly  the  metrop- 
olis of  the  state.  In  this  place  is  William  and  Mary  college,  formerly  an 
eminent  seat  of  learning.  Population  in  1820, 1402.  Yorktownon  the  S. 
side  of  York  river  will  be  forever  remembered,  as  the  place  where  Cornwal- 
lis surrendered  to  General  Washington.  Winchester  is  an  interior  town,  in 
the  great  limestone  valley,  30  miles  south  west  of  Harper’s  Ferry,  and  70 
miles  north  west  from  Washington ; and  is  a neat  and  flourishing  town 
containing  8 public  buildings  and  6 churches.  It  has  a large  number  of 
manufactories  and  workshops.  Being  central  to  many  mineral  springs, 
and  a place  noted  for  its  salubrity  and  pleasantness,  it  is  a summer  re- 
sort for  strangers.  It  contains  about  4,000  inhabitants.  Staunton  is  an 
interior  town,  120  miles  north  of  Richmond.  It  is  a healthy  and  delight- 
ful place,  containing  a number  of  public  buildings  and  three  churches. 
The  sulphur  springs,  a place  of  great  resort,  are  not  far  from  this  town. 
Lynchburg  is  situated  20  miles  below  the  great  falls,  where  James’  River 
breaks  through  the  Blue  Ridge,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  river.  It  con- 
tains 10  or  12  public  buildings,  4 churches  and  a number  of  very  hand 
some  houses.  It  has  two  bridges  over  the  river,  a large  number  of 
tobacco,  warehouses  and  manufactories,  and  a great  number  of  commission 
houses,  flour  mills  and  cotton  and  woollen  manufactories.  There  are  4 
mineral  springs  in  its  vicinity.  It  is  favorably  situated  for  trade,  not 
Yol.  JI.  * 12 


90 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


only  with  the  western  part  of  the  state,  but  with  the  western  states  gen- 
erally. Small  boats  convey  the  abundant  produce,  which  is  brought  here, 
down  the  river  to  Richmond.  The  most  important  item  in  the  produce 
is  from  10  to  12,000  hogsheads  of  tobacco.  It  is ‘almost  embosomed  in 
mountains,  that  have,  however,  fertile  and  populous  vallies  between,  and  is 
one  of  the  most  flourishing  and  commercial  towns  in  the  state;  and  prob- 
ably contains  7,000  inhabitants.  Harper’s  ferry  is  situated  at  the  junc- 
tion of  the  Shenandoah  and  the  Potomac,  .and  in  view  of  that  magnificent 
junction  so  well  described  by  Jefferson.  It  is  65  miles  north  west  from 
Washington.  The  United  States  possess  in  this  place  a very  extensive 
establishment  for  the  manufacture  of  arms.  The  buildings,  taken  togeth- 
er, compose  a little  village.  There  are  10  large  brick  buildings  connected 
with  the  establishment,  and  from  280  to  300  men  constantly  employed  in 
the  making  and  repairing  of  arms.  The  other  considerable  towns  in 
Virginia,  east  of  the  Alleghany  mountains,  are  as  follows,  Dumfries, 
Colchester,  Leesburg,  Martinsburg,  York,  New  Castle,  Hanover,  Ports- 
mouth, Hampton,  Suffolk,  Smithfield,  Manchester,  Charlotteville,  Milton 
Monticello,  Lexington  and  Fincastle. 

Character  and  Manners.  The  planters  of  Virginia  east  of  the  moun- 
tains are  generally  large  slave  holders.  The  influence  of  slavery,  both 
favorable  and  unfavorable,  is  distinctly  marked  in  their  manners.  The 
neat  and  thriving  villages  of  the  northern  states,  with  their  numerous 
mechanics  and  the  village  spire,  are  no  Jpnger  seen.  Towns  at  wide 
stages  from  each  other  are  built  up  on  the  navigable  waters;  and  the 
habitations  between  are  mansions  or  cabins.  The  state  has,  however,  re- 
cently made  munificent  and  noble  exertions  to  extend  general  education. 
It  has  produced  a great  proportion  of  the  leading  minds  in  the  legislative 
judicial  and  military  departments  of  the  general  government.  It  has 
already  given  three  presidents  to  the  nation,  and  until  very  recently  exer- 
cised an  ascendant  influence  in  its  councils.  The  distinguishing  national 
traits  of  the  Virginians  are  frankness,  generosity  and  decision,  unshrinking 
perseverance  in  the  right,  and  .obstinacy  in  the  wrung.  Nature  has 
given  the  state  every  advantage  of  position,  soil,  climate  and  navigable 
rivers;  but  a prevalent  political  dogma  has  influenced  the  councils  of  the 
state,  that  the  inculcation  of  internal  improvement  and  domestic  indus- 
try is  the  great  heresy  of  political  economy.  So  far  as  the  returns  of  the 
census  are  known,  it  appears,  that  Virginia  has  increased  gt  the  rate  of 
about  15  per  cent,  in  the  last  ten  years — and  that  the  increase  of  free 
persons,  is  in  a much  greater  ratio,  than  that  of  slaves. 


ATLANTIC  STATES, 


91 


NORTH  CAROLINA. 

Length  382  miles.  Breadth  121.  43,800  square  miles,  Between 
33°  53'  and  38°  33'  N.  L.  and  between  6°  20'  W.  L.  1°  33'  E.  L. 
Bounded  N.  by  Virginia,  E.  by  the  Atlantic,  S.  S.  Carolina,  W.  Tennessee. 


Counties.  Chief  Towns. 
Anson,  Wadesborough; 

Ashe,  Jeffersonton  ; 

Beaufort,  W ashington ; 

Bertie,  Windsor; 

Bladen,  Elizabethtown; 
Brunswick , Smithville, 
Buncombe,  Ashville; 

Burke,  Morgantown ; 

Cabanas,  Concord ; 

Camden,  New  Lebanon; 
Carteret,  Beaufort  ; 

Caswell,  Caswell;  C.  H. 
Chatham,  Pittsboroughf 
Chowan^  Edenton; 

Columbus,  Whitesville. 

Craven,  Newbern; 

Cumberland,  Fayetteville; 
Currituck,  Curituck ; 

Davidson,  Lexington  ; 

Dupin,  Kenansville; 
Edgecombe,  Tarboro  ; 

Franklin,  Louisburg; 

Gates,  Gates  C.  H.  ; 

Granville,  Oxford; 

Greene,  Snow  Hill; 

Guilford,  Greensboro ; 

Halifax,  Halifax ; . 

Haywood,  Haywood,  C.  H. 
Hertford,  Winton; 

Hyde,  Germanton; 

Iredell,  Statesville; 

Johnson,  Smithfield; 

Population  in  1820,  638,829. 


Counties . Chief  Towns. 

Jones,  Trenton  ; 

Lenoir,  Kinston; 

Lincoln,  Lincolnton; 

Macon,  Franklin  ; 

Martin,  Williamston ; 

Mecklenburg,  Charlotte; 
Montgomery,  Lawrenceville ; 
Moore,  Carthage ; 

Nash,  Nashville; 

New  Hanover,  Wilmington  ; 

North  Hampton,  N.  Hampton  C.  H. 
Orange,  Hillsborough ; 
Pasquotank,  Elizabeth  City; 
Perquinans,  Hertford; 

Person,  Roxborough; 

Pitt,  Greenville; 

Randolph,  Ashborough  ; 
Richmond,  Rockingham; 

Robeson,  Lumberton. 
Rockingham,  Wentv/orth; 

Rowan,  Salisbury; 

Rutherford,  Rutherfordton; 
Samson,  Clinton ; 

Stokes,-  Salem ; 

Surry,  Rockford; 

Tyrrell,  Columbia; 

Wake,  Raleigh; 

Warren,  Warrenton; 

Washington,  Plymouth; 

Wayne,  Waynesboro; 

Wilkes  Wilkesboro; 

In  1830, 738,470. 


Physical  Aspect.  The  belt  of  maritime  plain  is  still  wider  in  this 
state  than  in  V irginia,  extending  into  the  inferior  more  than  60  miles.  It 
is  a low  plain,  with  many  swamps  and  inlets  from  the  sea.  The  greater 
portion  of  this  district,  except  along  the  water  courses,  is  a vast  forest  of 


92 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


evergreens.  The  rich  lands  near  the  swamps  and  rivers  are  insalubrious. 
Having  passed  this  monotonous  region,  we  emerge  to  the  pleasant  and 
undulating  midland  parts  of  the  state,  at  the  bases  of  the  Alleghenies,  from 
whose  summits  the  eye  traverses  an  immense  extent  of  beautiful  country 
to  the  west;  and  vision  is  lost  in  the  agreeable  succession  of  hill,  dale, 
forest  and  valley,  with  an  elastic  and  salubrious  atmosphere.  The  great 
chains  of  - the  Alleghanies  pass  through  this  state,  as  through  Virginia. 
The  peaks  are  called  Stone  Mountain,  Yellow  Mountain,  Iron  Mountain, 
Bald  Mountain,  Sandusky  Mountain,  and  White  Mountain.  The  Blue 
JR-idge  divides  the  Atlantic  streams  from  the  Western  waters.  Between 
the  chains  are  numerous  detached  spurs. 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  soil  resembles  that  of  Virginia.  The 
maritime  belt  is  sandy,  and  in  many  places  sterile,  covered  with  vast 
forests  of  pine  timber,  and  the  swamps  with  cedar,  bay  and  cypress.  The 
alluvial  belt  of  the  rivers  is  generally  fertile.  Beside  the  products  of  the 
northern  states,  cotton,  tobacco,  rice,  sweet  potatoes  and  yams  abound, 
and  the  soil  and  climate  are  favorable  to  the  growth  of  the  grape  and  the 
mulberry.  From  their  pines  the  people  extract  tar,  pitch,  and  turpentine. 
The  exports  consist  of  cotton,  tobacco,  lumber,  tar,  turpentine,  pitch, 
pork  and  tallow.  In  1828  the  exports  were  564,506  dollars.  This  does 
not  present  a fair  estimate  of  exports,  compared  with  that  of  the  other 
states,  ns  a great  part  of  her  exports  are  sent  off  from  Charleston.  Her 
shipping  amounts  to  54,094  tons. 

Minerals.  Iron  ore  abounds,  and  the  state  possesses  valuable  iron 
works.  Freestone,  granite,  marble,  porcelain  clay,  pit  coal,  and  most  of 
the  useful  fossils  are  found  in  the  state.  The  belt  in  which  gold  is  found 
is  broader  and  more  productive  than  in  any  of  the  other  states.  In 
Mecklenburgb,  Montgomery,  Rowan,  and  particularly  Cabarras,  gold  has 
been  found  more  abundantly  than  in  any  other  portion  of  the  gold  district. 
One  of  the  largest  lumps  of  pure  gold  ever  found  was  dug  up  in  Cabarras. 
It  was  worth  between  7 and  8600  dollars.  Lumps  from  the  value  of  300 
to  1,000  dollars  are  not  uncommon.  Gold  is  found  in  great  purity  in  small 
grains  and  particles.  There  are  innumerable  diggings  over  all  this  dis- 
trict, and  a host  of  greedy  adventurers,  relinquishing  all  other  employ- 
ments, are  digging  the  hill  sides,  in  pursuit  of  gold.  Sulphate  of  barytes 
is  found  in  great  abundance  in  two  mines  in  the  state.  During  1829, 
the  United  States  Bank  in  Fayetteville  received  90 ,803  dollars  in  bars  of 
gold,  the  produce  of  the  North  Carolina  mines. 

Rivers.  The  Chowan  River  enters  this  state  from  Virginia,  where  it 
is  called  Nottaway.  By  a broad  estuary  it  empties  into  Albemarle  Sound 
below  Edenton.  The  Roanoke  also  enters  this  state  from  Virginia,  and 
pursuing  a very  sinuous  S.  E.  course,  it  falls  into  Albemarle  Sound  by 
several  channels.  It  is  navigable  by  vessels  of  considerable  size  30  miles, 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


93 


and  beatable  to  the  falls  70  miles.  It  has  an  extremely  fertile  alluvion. 
Cape  Fear  River  has  its  whole  course  in  the  state.  It  rises  in  the  moun- 
tains in  the  N.  part  of  the  state,  and  after  a S.  E.  course  of  200  miles, 
falls  into  the  Atlantic  at  Cape  Fear.  Its  estuary  is  a league  in  width, 
with  18  feet  water,  at  high  tide,  over  its  bar.  It  is  navigable  by  vessels  of 
11  feet  draught  to  Wilmington,  and  beatable  to  Fayetteville.  Neuse 
River  has  a course  of  200  miles,  and  finds  its  estuary  in  Pamlico  Sound, 
18  miles  below  Newbern.  Tar  River  has  a S.  E.  course  through  the 
state  of  150  miles,  and  empties  into  Pamlico  Sound.  It  is  navigable  to 
Washington,  30  miles,  and  beatable  to  Tarborough,  90  miles  from  its 
mouth.  Yadldn  River  rises  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  in  the  N.  W.  part  of  the 
state,  and  after  a course  of  more  than  100  miles  in  it,  passes  into  South 
Carolina.  Catawba  River  rises  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  after  a course  of 
70  or  80  miles  in  this  state,  passes  into  South  Carolina.  Broad  River 
also  rises  in  the  Blue  Ridge,  and  after  a S.  E.  course  of  50  miles  in  this 
state,  passes  into  South  Carolina.  The  head  w7aters  of  Tennessee  and 
Kenhawa  rise  in  this  state,  but  they  have  already  been  described.  The 
dangerous  and  stormy  Cape  Hatteras  is  on  the  shore  of  this  state. 

Climate.  This  great  state,  like  Virginia,  spreading  from  the  sea  over 
the  mountains,  has  in  summer  a sultry  climate,  a warm  climate,  a tem- 
perate, and  a cool  climate,  according  to  the  elevation  and  distance  of  the 
district  from  the  sea.  In  the  low  country  the  summers  are  decidedly  hot 
and  sultry,  and  the  high  aud  relaxing  heats,  united  with  the  exhalation 
from  decaying  vegetable  matter,  and  the  miasm  of  the  swamps,  are  in- 
jurious to  health.  The  highlands  of  North  Carolina  are  as  healthy  as  any 
part  of  the  United  States. 

Chief  Towns.  Raleigh  is  the  political  metropolis.  It  is  a handsome 
interior  town  near  the  centre  of  the  state,  6 miles  W.  of  the  Neuse;  140, 
N.  W.  of  Newbern,  and  164  S.  W.  of  Richmond.  It  contains  13  public 
buildings,  5 houses  of  public  worship,  and  about  3,000  inhabitants,  of 
whom  half  are  slaves.  Union  Square  in  the  centre  of  the  town,  con- 
taining 10  acres,  is  a public  ground,  highly  ornamental  to  the  city.  Four 
streets  extend  from  it,  dividing  the  town  into  four  parts.  In  1831  the 
splendid  state  house  of  this  town  was  destroyed  by  fire.  The  beautiful 
marble  statue  of  Washington,  by  Canova,  the  great  Italian  artist,  which 
cost  the  state  25,000  dollars,  was  placed  in  the  state  house,  and  was  sup- 
posed at  first  irreparably  destroyed.  It  has  since  been  discovered  to  be 
less  injured  than  was  imagined.  The  artist  is  dead,  and  it  is  a source  of 
melancholy  regret,  that  this  chef  cPoeuvre  can  never  be  restored  to  its 
pristine  beauty.  There  are  two  flourishing  academies  in  this  town. 
The  most  beautiful  materials  for  building  abound  in  its  vicinity.  New- 
born is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of  the  Neuse,  30  miles  from  Pamlico. 


94 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


Sound.  It  contains  8 public  buildings' and  3 churches,  and  has  a consid- 
erable commerce.  Its  exports  consist  of  lumber,  tar,  pitch,  grain,  and 
pork.  The  water  distance  between  this  place  and  Elizabeth  City  makes 
a part  of  the  steam  boat  route  between  Norfolk  and  Charleston.  It  is  the 
best  built,  healthiest,  an.d  most,  flourishing  town  in  North  Carolina  upon 
the  sea  coast.  Population  3,762.  More  than  half  are  coloured  people. 

Fayetteville  is  one  of  the  largest  towns  in  the  state.  Its  position  near 
the  W.  bank  of  Cape  Fear  River  at  the  head  of  boat  navigation,  is  fortu- 
nate, and  it  was,  until  recently,  one  of  the  most  flourishing  towns  in  the 
state.  In  May,  1831,  it  was  laid  in  ashes  by  one  of  the  most  destructive 
fires  ever  known  in  our  country.  From  the  material  of  the  buildings  and 
the  amount  of  pitch,  tar,  and  spirits  stored  in  the  town,  the  fire  raged 
with  terrific  and  irresistible,  violence,  -Six  hundred  buildings  were  de- 
stroyed, but  strange  to  tell,  not  a life  was  lost.  It  was  a compact  town, 
doing  much  mercantile  business,  and  with  about  4,600  inhabitants.  It 
is  rebuilding,  like  the  Phoenix,,  more  beautiful  from  its  ruins. 

Wilmington  is  situated  on  the  I£.  bank  of  Cape  Fear  River,  35  miles 
frnm  the  sea,  and  90  N.  E.  of  Fayetteville.  It  is  the  most  commercial 
town  in  the  state.  It  contains  5 or  6 public  buildings  and  3 churches. 
Its  annual  exports  have  sometimes  exceeded  $1,000,000,  and  it  owns 
10,000  tons  of  shipping.  The  extensive  rice  fields  in  its  vicinity  are 
supposed  to  render  it  unhealthy.  The  towns  of  this  state  have  been 
peculiarly  unfortunate  in  suffering  from  fires.  This  town  has  been  visited 
by  two  destructive  conflagrations,  one  in  1819,  by  which  200  buildings 
to  the  value  of  $1,000,000  were  destroyed;  and  another  in  1828,  in 
which  50  buildings,  were  burned,  valued  at  $130,000.  Population  about 
3,000.  Edenton  is  situated  on  the  E.  bank  of  Chowan  River.  Among 
its  public  buildings  the  court  house  is  conspicuous  for  its  elegance.  Its 
commercial  position  is  favorable;  but  its  air  is  considered  insalubrious. 
It  is  supposed  to  own  6,000  tons  of  shipping,  aud  to  contain  about  2,000 
inhabitants.  Washington  and*Salisbury  are  agreeable  inland  towns. — 
The  names  of  the  other  considerable  towns  follow:  Murfreesborough, 
Plymouth,  Halifax,  Warrenton,  Greenville,  Tarborougb,  Smithfield, 
Averey’sborough,  Lumbertown,  Rockingham,  Huntsville,  Salem,  States- 
ville, Charlotte,  Morgantown,  and  Ashville.  This  last  town,  having  a 
pleasant  position,  and  being  in  the  vicinity  of  the  Warm  Springs,  is 
rapidly  growing,. 

Religion.  All  the  Christian  denominations  are  represented  in  this 
state.  The  fixed  congregations  are  not  so  numerous  as  in  the  other  states, 
but  the  people  are  generally  addicted  to  some  form  of  worship.  The 
Methodists,  Presbyterians,  and  Baptists  are  believed  to  be  the  prevailing 
denominations. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


95 


Education . The  University  of  North  Carolina,  at  Chapel  Hill,  is 
respectably  endowed.  There  are  about  20  academies  in  the  state.  The 
seminary  for  young  ladies  at  Salem  is  a Moravian  institution  of  distin- 
guished reputation,  to  which  many  young  ladies  from  the  southern  coun- 
try resort  for  their  education.  The  state  has  provided  an  accumulating 
literary  fund,  which  at  present  amounts  to  about  $70,000.  It  is  intended 
that  the  avails  of  it  shall  be  appropriated  among  the  several  counties,  in 
the  ratib  of  the  free  population,  for  the  support  of  common  schools. 

Roads  and  Canals.  In  the  level  belt  of  the  state  nature  has  done  so 
much  towards  giving  it  good  roads,  that  artificial  exertions  in  this  direc- 
tion have  been  neglected.  Considerable  extent  of  canal  has  been  made 
on  Cape  Fear  River,-  and  the  navigation  of  some  of  the  other  rivers  has 
been  improved  in  the  same  way.  The  canal  between  Chesapeake  Bay 
and  Albemarle  Sound  through  the  Great  Dismal  Swamp,  has  already  been 
mentioned.  The .whole  extent  of  canal  in  this  state  amounts  to  43  miles. 

General  Remarks*  This  state  holds  a largp  proportion'  of  slaves, 
especially  the  planters  in  the  lower  part  of  it.  In  this  district  the  term 
sickly  season  is  of  common  use,  and  has  a distinct  import.  The  reed 
cane,  the  palmetto  and  long  moss  are  striking  features  in  the  landscape, 
indicating  sufficiently,  that  it.  belongs  to  the  southern  states.  The  pro 
digious  forests  of  long  leafed  pine  strike  the  eye  of  a northerner  with  a 
peculiar  effect.  The  sound  of  the  breeze' in  this  forest,  as  he  journies 
through  it,  furnishes  him  a sad,  though  not  unpleasing  music.  The 
bright  fires  of  the  tar  makers  in  these  ancient  forests,  with  their  number- 
less tall  columns,  and  the  deep  verdure  of  their  tassels  half  a yard  in 
length,  as  seen  illumined  by  the  bright  glare  of  the  burning  fat  pine,  taken 
together,  furnish  a spectacle,  which,  to  be  apprehended,  must  be  seen. 

The  people  in  the  interior  and  western  parts  of  the  state  have  fewer 
slaves,  labor  with  their  own  hands,  and  are  more  assimilated  in  their  hab- 
its and  manners  to  the  northern  people.  The  inhabitants  of  the  slate  in 
general  have  a marked  character  for  sobriety  and  morality,  and  a sturdi- 
ness of  independence.  In  their  temperament,  they  are  inclined  to  relig- 
ious excitement;  and  are  striving  to  remedy  past  neglect  of  common 
schools,  by  fostering  private  seminaries  and  Sunday  schools.  In  common 
with  Virginia,  this  state  has  a great  extent  of  swamp  lands.  The  6 Great 
Dismal’  of  Virginia  it  is  well  known  to  be  30  miles  in  extent.  There  are 
in  this  state  2,000,000  acres  of  such  land.  These  are  discovered  to  be 
easily  reclaimable,  and  to  possess  a soil  of  great  and  exhaustless  fertility. 
They  are  supposed  capable  of  sustaining  a population  of  100,000.  people, 
and  to  be  particularly  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  tobacco,  rice,  cotton, 
and  hemp.  The  Scuppernong  and  Catawba  grape  indigenous  to  this 
state,  are  extensively  cultivated  abroad,  and  yield  a wine,  which  ranks  at 


90 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


the  head  of  our  native  wines.  They  are  great  bearers.  The  cultivation 
of  indigo  has  been  attempted  with  entire  suceess.  The  product  is  of  the 
best  quality.  The  people  are  beginning  to  turn  their  attention  to  the 
making  wine  from  their  native  grapes,  and  to  raising  the  silk  mulberry. 
A spirit  of  improvement  is  abroad  from  which  the  best  results  must  follow. 

This  state  was  the  theatre  of  some  of  the  most  brilliant  achievements, 
during  the  revolutionary  war.  The  battle  of  Moore’s  Creek  bridge, 
King’s  Mountain,  and  Guilford  will  remain  in  history,  imperishable  me- 
morials of  the  bravery  and  patriotism  of  its  inhabitants. 


SOUTH  CAROLINA. 


Length  18S  miles.  Breadth,  160  containg  30,000  square  miles.  Be- 
tween 32°  2'  and  35°  10'  N.  L.  and  between  1°  45'  and  6°  15'  W.  L. 

Bounded  N,  and  N.  E.  by  North  Carolina;  S.  E.  by  the  Atlantic  and 
S.  W.  by  Georgia,  from  which  it  is  separated  by  the  Savannah. 


Counties:  Chief  Towns . 
Abbeville,  Abbeville; 
Anderson,  Pendleton  ; 
Barnwell,  Barnwell ; 
Beaufort,  Coosawatchie; 
Charleston,  Charleston; 
Chester,  ^hesterville ; 
Chesterfield,  Bennetsville; 
Colleton,  Waterboro; 
Darlington,  Darlington; 
Edgefield,  Edgefield; 
Fairfield,  Winnisboro; 
Georgetown,  Georgetown; 
Greenville,  Greenville; 
Horry,  Conwayboro ; 
Kershaw,  Camden ; 


Counties.  Chief  Towns. 
Lancaster,  Lancaster  C,  H. ; 
Laurens,  Laurensville; 

Lexington,  Lexington  C.  H»; 
Marion,  Marion  C.  H.; 
Marlborough,  Marlborough,  C.  H. ; 
Newberry,  Newberry  C.  H» 
Orangeburgh,  Orangeburgh; 
Pickens,  Pickens; 

Richland,  Columbia ; 
Spartanburgh,  Spartanburgh; 
Sumpter,  Statesburgh; 

Union,  Unionville. 

Williamsburgh,  Kingstree; 

York,  York  C.  H. 


Population  in  1820,  502  741.  In  1830  581,458. 

Physical  Aspect.  S.  Carolina  shows,  still  more  palpably  than  the 
states  farther  north,  the  maritime  belt  of  plain,  broadening  in  proportion 
to  the  advance  towards  the  south.  In  this  state  this  broad  plain  of  sea 
formation,  of  a uniform  and  monotonous  level,  extends  more  than  100 
miles  into  the  interior.  It  it  is  chequered  by  swamps  and  indented  by 
sea  inlets.  An  alluvial  belt  along  the  rivers  is  rich.  The  remaining  por- 
tions of  the  plain  are  covered  with  the  long  leafed  pine.  Beyond  this  is 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


97 


the  sand  hill  belt,  60  miles  in  width,  the  sterile  hills  of  which  have 
been  compared  to  the  arrested  waves  of  the  sea  in  a storm.  It  yields  nat- 
urally nothing,  but  stinted  junipers  and  pines.  To  this  distance  the 
broad  extent  of  country  is  called  the  lower  country.  Beyond  it  we  ap- 
proach the  ridge  or  upper  country,  the  Atlantic  ascent  of  which  is  precip- 
itous. From  the  summit  stretches  a large  belt  of  table  country,  fertile, 
cultivated,  watered  by  rivers  and  irrigated  by  smaller  streams  extending 
from  the  Savannah  to  Broad  river.  Hills  and  dales  alternate.  The 
deep  forests  with  their  varieties  of  trees  gratify  the  eye  by  their  verdure, 
and  varied  foliage.  The  ascent  hence  to  the  mountains  is  gradual  and 
imperceptible.  A number  of  mountains  of  striking  forms  here  swell 
with  their  peaks  to  a very  considerable  elevation.  Table  mountain  is 
the  mest  conspicuous.  Its  summit  is  supposed  to  be  4,000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea.  The  names  of  the  other  elevated  peaks  are  Oconee, 
Paris,  Glassey,  Hogback,  and  King’s.  These  mountain's  give  rise  to  ma- 
ny clear  and  quick  streams  of  water. 

Climate.  The  atmosphere  of  the  low  country  is  sultry,  damp,  and  un- 
elastic.  The  complexion  of  the  inhabitants  is  marked  with  a sallow 
tinge,  and  most  of  the  summer  and  autumnal  diseases  assume  a bilious 
type.  Intermittents  are  common,  and  the  autumnal  fevers  severe.  In 
the  low  country,  the  season  of  frost  does  not  comprise  more  than  3 
months,  and  the  ground  is  seldom  whitened  with  snow  more  than  one 
night;  though  the  mountains  are  often  white  for  many  days  together. 
The  weather  in  the  intermediate  seasons  between  autumn  and  spring 
is  often  fickle,  and  subject  to  frequent  and  great  changes,  The 
multifbra  rose  blooms  afl  the  year  in  Charleston;  and  yet  the  ex- 
tremes of  summer  heat  are  not  often  felt  in  that  city.  The  hilly  and 
western  parts  of  the  state  have  a climate,  mild,  delightful,  and  salu- 
brious. 

Productions . The  staples  are  cotton  and  rice.  The  value  of  cotton 
exported  from  this  state  has  been  as  high  as  §12,000X00  in  a year. 
Next  to  cotton,  rice,  is  the  most  important  production.  Indigo  is  a large 
item  in  the  exports  of  the  state.  Tobacco  thrives  well.  Many  cf  the 
northern  fruits  and  grains  would  succeed,  were  they  sufficiently  attended 
to.  The  soil  is  remarkable  for  producing  the  best  sweet  potatoes  and 
yams,  and  the  largest  and  finest  watermelons  in  (he  United  States.  The 
fruits  are  pears,  pomegranates,  figs,  apricots,  nectarines,  apples,  peaches, 
olives,  grgpes,  almonds,  and  oranges.  ./The  planters  divides  their  soil 
into  several  classes,  with  distinctive  names;  as  the  tide  swamp,  which 
yields  a sea  island  cotton, .cf  nearly  double  (he  value  of  the  upland  kinds; 
inland  swamp,  river  swamp,  cak  and  hickory  land,  and  pine  barren. 
The  oak  and  hickory  land  is  favorable  to  indigo  and  cotton.  The  pine 
Vol.  II.  ‘ 13 


9S 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


barren,  though  the  least  fertile  of  all,  is  overhung  by  an  atmosphere  so 
much  more  salubrious,  that  much  of  it  is  cultivated;  and  a sufficient 
portion  for  the  planter  to  erect  his  habitation  upon,  is  deemed  an  impor- 
tant appendage  to  every  swamp  plantation.  So  various  is  the  climate, 
that  the  plants  of  Canada  may  be  found  on  its  mountains,  and  on  its 
southern  declivities  the  hardier  tropical  fruits.  In  botanical  opulence  it 
surpasses  any  other  Atlantic  state.  It  is  an  extended  garden  of  medici- 
nal herbs,  and  flowering  plants.  Among  its  striking  shrubs  and  beauti- 
ful trees,  may  be  mentioned  the  magnolia  azalia,  rhododendron  rosa,  Car- 
olinensis  calicanthus,  Floridus  angelica,  robinia  fragrans,  and  different 
kinds  of  the  adromeda  delight  the  eye  with  their  flowers,  and  perfume 
the  air  with  their  fragrance. 

Minerals . We  have  already  seen  that  the  belt,  in  which  gold  is  found 
extends  through  this  state.  Although  the  mines  are  abundant,  and  nu- 
merous, from  some  cause  the  diggings  have  been  less  numerous,  than  in 
North  Carolina.  Various  ochres,  used  in  painting,  are  found  at  York- 
ville.  Marble,  limestone,  iron,  and  lead  ore,  potter’s  clay,  fuller’s  earth 
nitrous  earth,  talc,  pellucid  stones,  and  most  of  the  useful  fossils  are 
common. 

Rivers.  The  Pedee  rises  in  Virginia,  and  flows  in  a south  east  direc- 
tion through  North  Carolina  into  South  Carolina,  and  empties  into  the 
Atlantic  below  Georgetown.  Its  length  of  course  is  300  miles,  200  of 
which  are  boatable.  Santee  is  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  Congaree, 
and  Wateree  below  Columbia.  These  streams  rise  in  the  mountains  of 
North  Carolina.  It  pursues  a south  east  course  of  300  miles  to  the  At- 
lantic, into  which  it  empties  50  miles  north  east  from  Charleston.  It 
is  boatable  200  miles.  The  head  waters  of  the  noble  river  Savannah 
are  in  Tennessee.  Entering  this  state,  it  becomes  the  dividing  line  be- 
tween it  and  Georgia.  The  direction  of  its  course  which  is  300  miles,  is 
south  east,  and  it  empties  into  the  Atlantic  17  miles  below  Savannah, 
Up  to  this  point  large  vessels  ascend.  It  is  navigable  by  steam  boats  to 
Augusta,  127  miles  higher.  Smaller  boats  ascend  far  beyond  this  place 
into  the  interior  of  the  country.  Catawba  river  rises  in  North  Carolina. 
Passing  into  South  Carolina,  it  assumes  the  name  of  Wateree,  and  unites 
with  the  Congaree  30  miles  below  Columbia.  The  stream  below  the 
junction  is  called  the  Santee.  The  most  splendid  cascade  in  the  state  is 
furnished  by  the  Catawaba  falls  above  Rocky  Mount.  The  river  which 
had  been  more  than  180  yards  wide  above,  here  contracts  to  less  than  60, 
and  dashes  down  from  cascade  to  cascade  100  feet.  This  striking  spec- 
tacle is  easily  accessible,  and  much  visited.  Broad  river  is  the  main 
branch  of  the  Santee.  It  rises  iu  the  mountains  of  North  Carolina,  and  is 
swelled  in  its  course  with  the  Pacolet,  Tiger  and  Ennoree,  and  unites 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


99 


with  the  Saluda  below  Columbia.  Saluda  river  is  the  western  branch  of 
the  Santee.  Cooper  river  rises  40  miles  north'from  Charleston,  and 
unites  with  Ashley  river  below  that  city.  It  is  connected  with  the  San- 
tee by  a canal.  The  little  Pedee,  Waccamaw,  Lynch’s  creek,  Black  river 
Edisto,  Cambahee,  Coosaw,  Stono  and  Keowee  are  all  considerable 
streams. 

Exports.  We  have  already  observed,  that  the  staples  are  cotton  and 
rice.  In  1830,  180,087  bales  of  cotton  were  exported  from  Charleston. 
The  total  amount  of  exports  in  1829  was  $8,175,586.  The  tonnage 
owned  in  South  Carolina  in  1828  was  33,688. 

Literature.  The  South  Carolina  college  at  Columbia,  the  political  me- 
tropolis, is  a respectable  institution,  liberally  endowed  receiving  from  the 
state  an  annual  grant  of  $15,000.  The  college  buildings  proper  are  2 
buildings  3 stories  high,  210  feet  long  and  25  wide.  Five  or  6 other  re- 
spectable buildings  for  the  residence  of  the  officers  handsomely  arranged 
present  a striking  appearance.  The  library  and  philosophical  apparatus 
are  also  respectable.  The  state  has  expended  $200,000  upon  this  in- 
stitution. Charleston  college  in  Charleston  is  spoken  of  as  a respectahle 
institution.  There  are  also  institutions  called  colleges  at  Beaufort,  Win- 
nisboro’  and  Cambridge,  and  there  are  6 or  8 incorporated  academies 
in  the  state.  The  state  makes  an  annual  appropriation  of  about  $40,000 
for  the  support  of  free  schools.  In  1828  there  were  840  such  estab- 
lished, in  which  9,038  scholars  were  instructed  at  the  expense  of  about 
$39,716. 

Chief  Towns.  Charleston  is  situated  on  a point  of  land,  made  by  the 
junction  of  the  rivers  Cooper  and  Ashley,  ^ which  by  their  union  form  a 
commodious  harbor,  opening  to  the  ocean  below  Sullivan’s  Island,  seven 
miles  below  the  city.  The  passage  over  the  bar  at  the  mouth  of 
the  harbor,  though  deep  and  safe,  is  difficult  to  find.  It  is  strongly 
defended  by  3 forts  on  different  islands  in  the  harbor.  It  contains  10  or 
12  respectable  public  buildings  and  18  or  20  churches.  Most  of  them 
are  handsome,  and  some  of  them  magnificent.  There  are  but  3 or  4 
larger  city  libraries  in  the  United  States,  than  that  of  Charleston.  It  con- 
tains between  13  and  14,000  volumes.  The  orphan  asylum  is  a noble 
and  munificent  charity,  which  maintains  and  educates  130  orphan  child- 
ren. There  is  a fund  also  for  educating  at  the  South  Carolina  college 
such  boys,  as  manifest  distinguished  talents.  Many  of  the  charitable  in« 
stitutions  of  this  hospitable  city  are  munificently  endowed,  and  afford 
ample  and  efficient  relief  to  the  various  species  of  distress,  for  the  allevia- 
tion of  which  they  are  designed.  It  is  regularly  laid  out;  and  handsomely 
and  in  some  parts  splendidly  built.  The  site  was  originally  low  and 
marshy ; but  the  low  places  have  been  filled  up,  and  so  raised  that  the 


103 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


streets  arc  perfectly  dry.  The  houses  are  spacious  and  have  piazzas  to 
court  the  breeze.  The  squares  are  shaded  with  the  pride  of  China 
and  other  beautiful  trees,  and  the  gardens  with  orange  trees,  and  the  in- 
habitants have  had  the  taste  to  surround  their  dwellings  with  the  multiflora 
rose,  and  other  ornamental  shrubs  and  fragrant  flowering  plants,  which 
impart  to  a northern  stranger  the  idea  cf  a tropical  flower  garden.  Though 
this  city  has  been  mere  than  once  desolated  by  the  yellow  fever,  it  is  con- 
sidered healthier  for  acclimated  inhabitants,  than  the  surrounding  country. 
The  planters  from  the  low  country  and  many  opulent  strangers  from  the 
West  Indies  ccrne  here  to  spend  the  sickly  months,  and  to  enjoy  the  ele- 
gant and  enlightened  society,  with  which  this  city  abounds.  The  city 
owns  a large  amount  cf  shipping,  and  in  the  value  of  its  exports  is  the 
fourth  city  in  the  union.  It  is  120  miles  south  e fs’t  from  Columbia,  590 
south  west  from  Baltimore,  7S0  south  west  from  New  York,  and  553 
south  west  from  Washington.  By  the  way  of  Norfolk  and  across  the  bays, 
it  has  rapid  and  easy  steam  boat  communications  with  the  southern  cities. 
In  1S20  the  population  wras  24,780  of  which  more  than  half  were  slaves. 
In  1839, 30,239. 

Columbia  is  the  political  metropolis  of  the  state.  It  is  situated  oppo- 
site the  junction  of  the  Saluda  and  Broad  rivers,  the  union  of  whichforms 
the  Congaree.  The  position  of  the  town  is  an  elevated  plain,  that  slopes 
beautifully  to  the  river.  It  is  regularly  laid  out ; the  squares  are  rectangu- 
lar, and  the  streets  100  feet  wide.  The  town  contains  10  or  12  public 
buildings;  and  4 or  5 churches,  two  of  which  the  Presbyterian,  and  Epis- 
copalian are  handsome.  The  former  has  2 lofty  spires,  and  the  latter  a 
bell  and  an  organ.  The  state  house  is  170  feet  by  60.  The  college 
buildings,  which  we  have  already  mentioned,  show  to  great  advantage. 
Altogether  it  is  a very  neat  place,  and  has  frequent  steam  boat  communi- 
cations with  Charleston.  It  is  120  miles  north  east  from  Charleston. 
Georgetown  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  Winyaw  Bay,  into  which  a 
number  of  considerable  streams  empty,  connecting  it  extensively  with  the 
back  country.  It  is  60  miles  north  east  of  Charleston.  Although  the 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  .bay  prevents  the  entrance  of  vessels  drawing 
more  than  7 feet  water,  it  is  a port  cf  some  importance.  It  contains  4 or 
five  public  buildings,  4 churches,  and  about  2,000  inhabitants. 

Beaufort  is  situated  on  Port  Royal  island,  near  the  outlet  of  the  Coo- 
saw.  It  is  a pleasant  and  healthy  place,  containing  3 churches,  and  11 
cr  1200  inhabitants.  It  has  a literary  institution,  incorporated  as  a col- 
lege which  lias  an  endowment  of  $70,000. 

Cambden  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Wateree,  at  a point  in  the 
river  to  which  it  is  navigable  for  vessels  of  70  tons.  It  is  central  to  a 
fertile  and  populous  district  of  the  state.  It  is  a neat  and  regularly  built 
town,  containing  4 or  5 public  buildings,  and  4 churches.  It  is  a mem- 


ATLANTIC  STATES* 


101 


orable  spot  in  the  history  of  the  revolutionary  struggle*  two  considerable 
bat  es  having  been  fought  here;  one  between  General  Ga  "‘S  and  l ord 
C-rnwahis,  and  the  other  between  Gen.  Greene  and  Lord  Rawdon.  It  is 
35  miles  N.  E.  from  Columbia,  and  130  N.  W.  from  Charleston.  Popu- 
lation about  1,200.  The  names,  of  the  other  considerable  villages  fallow : 
Darlington,  Society  Hill,  Cheraw,  Chesterfield,  Kingtree,  Sumpterv tile, 
Manchester,  Stnfesburgh,  Lancaster,  Chesterville,  Yorkville,  Cambridge, 
Laurensville,  Greenville,  Pickensville,  Orangeburgh,  Eirnwell,  Coosa- 
whatcbie,  Punisburgh,  Robertsvil'le,  Edgefield,  Wilmington,  Vienna, 
Abbeville,  Andersonville,  and  Pendleton. 

Roads  and  Canals.  This  state  has  a Board  of  Public  Works,  under 
whose  exertions  public  works  of  considerable  extent  have  been  executed. 
The  Santee  Canal,  22  miles  in  length,  connects  the  Santee  River  with 
Charleston  harbor.  A number  of  short  canals,  making  in  ail  a consid- 
erable extent,  have  been  cut  around  the  falls  of  the  rivers,  to  render  them 
boatable.  The  whole  extent  cf  canal  completed,  or  in  progress  in  this 
state  amounts  to  150  miles.  But  the  most  important  public  work  it  has 
attempted,  is  the  South  Carolina  Rail  Road.  Of  this  great  work  one 
hundred  and  thirty-two  miles  and  a half  in  length,  the  entire  line,  is  under 
contract,  and  considerable  advancement  has  been  made  in  the  whole  ex- 
tent. Twelve  miles  are  complete,  and  the  rails  laid  and  wedged  upon  19 
miles  more.  In  1830  an  average  of  600  labourers  were  employed  upon 
the  work. 

Religion.  All  the  denominations  of  Christians  are  represented  in 
South  Carolina,  as  in  the  other  states,  but  the  prevalent  denominations 
are  Presbyterians,  Episcopalians,  Methodists,  and  Baptists. 

General  Remarks.  Some  of  the  most  venerated  names  that  the  revo- 
lutionary annals  can  furnish,  are  names  of  men  of  the  first  fortune  and 
highest  education  in  this  state,  who  wrote,  legislated,  fought  and  bled, 
and  put  every  thing  at  hazard,  on  the  issue  of  national  independence. 
The  state  has  continued  to  furnish  citizens  of  the  most  brilliant  talents 
and  distinguished  character  to  represent  her  in  the  national  councils. 
The  integrity  and  glory  of  the  American  union  were,  until  lately,  as 
fondly  cherished  here  as  in  any  other  state.  This  is  not  the  place  to 
comment  upon  the  new  political  dogmas,  adopted  as  political  orthodoxy 
by  the  councils  of  the  state.  It  is  more  pleasant  to  dwell  upon  the  high- 
minded  independence,  the  frank  and  generous  hospitality,  the  prompt 
and  charitable  regard  to  distress,  and  the  elegant  affluence,  which  all 
strangers,  sojourning  in  the  state,  have  concurred  to  award  to  its  distin- 
guished citizens.  Amidst  the  querulous  and  menacing  spirit,  of  complumt, 
and  the  avowal  of  real  or  supposed  depression  and  poverty,  she  is  adopting 
some  measures  for  the  amelioration  of  her  condition,  which  are  unques- 


102 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


tionably  wise  and  expedient.  She  is  cherishing  agriculture  by  the  efforts 
of  enlightened  agricultural  associations.  Great  exertions  are  making  to 
extend  the  cultivation  of  sea  island  cotton,  the  sugar  cane,  the  silk  mul- 
berry, and  the  vine.  Manufactures  of  cotton  are  established,  and  en- 
couraged. It  is  only  requisite  that  this  great  state  should  cherish  her 
internal  resources,  that  her  large  planters  should  have  the  knowledge  and 
dignity  to  practice  retrenchment,  and  inculcate  upon  their  children,  that 
to  be  trained  to  industry,  to  have  a pursuit,  and  in  a free  and  republican 
country,  even  to  labor  with  their  own  hands,  would  bring  neither  stain  nor 
indignity,  to  restore  that  prosperity,  which  will  be  sought  for  in  vain  in 
idle  menace  and  fierce  legislation. 


Length,  300  miles.  Breadth  200.  Containing  58,000  square  miles. 
Between  30°  19'  and  35°  N.  L.  and  3°  52'  and  8°  47'  W.  L.  Bounded 
N.  by  Tennessee  and  North  Carolina;  N.  E.  by  South  Carolina;  S.  E- 
by  the  Atlantic;  S. by  Florida;  and  W.  by  Alabama. 


GEORGIA. 


Counties . Towns. 

Appling,  Appling  C.  H. 

Baker,  Byron. 

Baldwin,  Milledgeville. 

Bibb,  Macon. 

Bryan,  Bryan  C.  H. 

Bullock,  Statesborough. 

Burke,  Waynesboro. 

Butts,  Jackson. 

Camden,  Jeffersonton. 
Campbell,  Campbellton. 
Carroll,  Carrollton. 

Chatham,  Savannah. 

Cherokee  Nation,  New  Echota. 
Clark,  Watkins ville. 

Columbia,  Appling. 

Coweta,  Newnan. 

Crawford,  Knoxville 
Creek  Nation,  Creek  Agency. 
Decatur,  Bainbridge. 

De  Kalb,  Decatur. 


Counties.  Towns. 

Dooly,  Berrian. 

Early,  Blakely. 
Effingham,  Willoughby. 
Elbert,  Elberton. 
Emanuel,  Swainsboro. 
Fayette,  Fayetteville. 
Franklin,  Carnersville. 
Glymn,  Brunswick. 
Greene,  Greenesboro. 
Gwinnet,  Lawrenceville. 
Habersham,  Clarkesville. 
Hall,  Gainesville. 
Hancock,  Sparta. 

Harris,  Hamilton. 

Henry,  McDonough. 
Houston,  Perry. 

Irwin,  Irwin  C.  H. 
Jackson,  Jefferson. 
Jasper,  Monticello. 
Jefferson,  Louisville. 


ATLANTIC  STATES- 


103 


Jones,  Clinton. 

Laurens,  Dublin. 

Lee,  Pendleton 
Liberty,  Riceboro. 

Lincoln,  Lincolnton. 
Lowndes,  Franklinville. 
Madison,  Danielsville. 
McIntosh,  Darien. 

Marion,  Marion  C.  II. 
Merriwether,  Greenville. 
Monroe,  Forsyth. 
Montgomery,  Mount  Vernon. 
Morgan,  Madison. 

Muscogee,  Columbus. 
Newton,  Covington. 
Oglethorpe,  Lexington. 

Pike,  Zebulon. 

Pulaski,  Hartford. 

Putnam,  Eatonton. 


Rabun,  Clayton. 
Randolph,  Randolph  C.  H 
Richmond,  Augusta. 
Suiven,  Jacksonburgh. 
Talbot,  Talbotton. 
Taliaferro,  Crawfordsville. 
Tatnall,  Perry’s  Mills. 
Telfair,  Jacksonville. 
Thomas,  Thomasville. 
Troup,  Lagrange. 

Twiggs,  Marion. 

Upson,  Thomaston. 
Walton,  Monroe. 

Ware,,  Waresboro. 

Warren,  Warrenton. 
Washington,  Sanders ville. 
Wayne,  Waynesville. 
Wilkes,  Washington. 
Wilkinson,  Irwinton. 


Population  in  1820,  340,987.  In  1830,  516,504.  Of  this  number 
between  the  third  and  the  half  are  slaves. 

Physical  Aspect.  There  is  the  same  broad  maritime  belt  of  level 
country,  skirting  the  sea,  as  in  South  Carolina,  of  nearly  100  miles  in 
extent.  The  sea  shore  is  dotted  with  a number  of  islands.  The  numer- 
ous rivers,  inlets  and  arms  of  the  sea  overflow  the  swamps  at  almost  every 
return  of  the  tide.  Hence  the  sea  marsh  swamps,  and  the  swamps  near 
the  estuaries  of  rivers,  in  order  to  be  reclaimed,  require  levees.  Beyond 
the  swamps  commences  the  extensive  belt  of  pine  barrens,  closely  resen> 
bling  those  of  South  Carolina.  Beyond  this  belt  the  country  begins  to 
be  pleasantly  diversified  by  gentle  undulations.  The  soil  is  what  is  tech- 
nically called  mulatto  soil.  This  region  is  bounded  on  the  W.  by  the 
Blue  Ridge,  which  here  swells  into  elevations  1,500  feet  in  height,  which 
thence  subside,  and  are  lost  in  the  sea.  Beyond  the  mountains  is  an  ex- 
tensive and  rich  table  country,  with  a black  soil  of  great  fertility,  in  which 
pines  and  evergreens  are  more  rare,  and  are  replaced  by  black  walnut  and 
the  forest  trees  that  denote  a rich  soil. 

Climate.  Differs  very  little  from  that  of  South  Carolina.  The  low 
country  planters  have  their  sickly  season  and  their  summer  retreats  in  the 
high  pine  woods.  The  districts  central  to  the  rice  swamps  in  the  Caroli- 
nas  and  Georgia  are  universally  insalubrious.  There  are  districts  in  this 
state,  that  approach  nearer  to  tropical  temperature,  than  any  portions  of 
South  Carolina,  and  are  better  adapted  to  the  cultivation  of  the  sugar 


104 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


cane,  the  olive,  and  sweet  orange.  The  hilly  and  western  parts  of  the 
state  are  as  healthy  as  any  part  of  America.  As  an  average  of  the  tem- 
perature, winter  may  he  said  to  commence  in  the  middle  ef  December, 
and  end  in  the  middle  of  February.  The  climate  of  the  low  country 
compares  very  nearly  with  that  of  Louisiana. 

Productions.  The  staple  is  cotton,  both  the  black  seeded  and  sea  isl- 
and. Rice  is  the  next  staple.  Great  extents  of  i ice  swamps  are  sowed 
with  this  grain.  Sugar  cane  is  cultivated  on  experiment.  Indigo  is  be- 
ginning to  constitute  a considerable  item  in  the  products.  Silk  and  wine 
are  made  on  experiment.  The  fruits  are  melons  in  the  greatest  perfec- 
tion, figs  in  abundance,  oranges,  pomegranates,  olives,  lemons,  limes, 
citrons,  pears,  peaches  and  grapes.  The  forest  trees  and  shrubs  are  as 
numerous  and  as  various  as  in  South  Carolina/ and  it  produces  great 
numbers  of  indigenous  medicinal  plants. 

Exports.  Consisting  chiefly  of  cotton,  rice,  deer  skins,  lumber,  &c.  in 
1828  amounted  to  $4,981,376.  The  tonnage  was  13,959  tons. 

Canals  and  internal  Improvements.  A canal  from  the  Savannah  to 
the  Ogeechee  is  completed.  It  is  intended  to  extend  it  to  the  Altamaha, 
making  in  all  72  miles.  One  hundred  negroes  are  employed  by  the  state, 
under  the  direction  of  .2  superintendents,  to  work  by  the  direction  of  over- 
seers on  the  roads  and  the  rivers. 

Education.  The  university  of  Georgia  has  funds  to  the  amount  of  136 
thousand  dollars.  Its  position  is  at  Athens.  The  buildings  consist 
of  two  large  college  edifices,  two  chapels,  a president’s  and  a steward’s 
house.  The  library  and  philosophical  apparatus  are  respectable.  An 
academy,  with  an  average  number  of  SO  students,  is  connected  with  the 
college.  There  are  80  incorporated  academies  in  the  slate,  64  of  which 
are  in  operation,  containing  3, COS  pnpils.  The  total  number  of  the 
pupils  in  the  academies  and  common  schools  is  4,258.  The  legislature 
has  appropriated  $250,000,  and  1,000  acres  of  land  in  each  county  in 
such  an  investment,  as  that  the  avails  shall  be  applied  to  the  support  of 
common  schools. 

Natives.  The  greater  portions  of  two  considerable  tribes,  the  Chero- 
kees  and  Creeks,  reside  within  the  chartered  limits  of  this  state.  The 
Cherokees  have  shown  a greater  capacity  for  the  improvements  of  civil- 
ized life,  and  more  progress  in  cultivation  and  the  arts,  than  any  other  In- 
dian tribe  in  cur  country.  They  have  good  houses,  live  in  villages,  culti- 
vate firms  and  have  1,277  slaves.  They  have  carpenters  and  blacksmiths 
and  the  females  spin  and  weave,  and  make  butter  and  cheese.  They 
number  a total  of  15,089  persons;  and,  instead  of  diminishing,  they 
have  increased,  during  the  last  6 years,  3,583.  They  have  adopted  a 
form  of  government  and  jurisprudence  similar  to  ours.  A half  breed 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


105 


Cherokee  has  produced  the  surprising  invention  of  a Cherokee  alphabet, 
which,  in  point  of  utility,  takes  a high  place  among  the  alphabetic  inven- 
tions of  all  ages  and  countries.  Great  numbers  of  missionary  establish- 
ments are  fixed  among  them,  in  the  schools  of  which  500  children  are 
learning  to  read  and  write  the  English  language.  This  is  not  the  place  ; 
to  vex  the  question,  which  has  proved  of  such  absorbing  interest,  of  the 
humanity  of  their  removal  west  of  the  Mississippi. 

Rivers.  The  Savannah,  which  is  the  boundary  between  this  state  and 
Georgia,  has  already  been  noticed.  The  Ogeechee  River  pursues  a S.  E. 
course  through  the  state  of  200  miles.  Its  estuary  is  Ossabaw  Sound, 
17  miles  S.  W.  of  Tybee  Light  House.  Canuchee,  its  principal  branch, 
after  a course  of  100  miles,  unites  with  it  20  miles  from  the  Atlantic.  ! 
St.  Mary’s  rises  in  the  great  swamp  of  Okanfanoka,  and  is  the  boundary 
between  Georgia  and  Florida.  Alatamaha  is  a broad  and  deep  stream 
with  many  branches.  The  principal  of  these  are  the  Oconee  and 
Ocmulgee.  The  Apulcuhee  is  a principal  branch  of  the  Oconee.  The 
Little  Ocmulgee  is  a branch  of  the  Ocmulgee.  After  the  junction 
of  the  Oconee  and  Ocmulgee,  the  majestic  Alatamaha  flows  one  hundred 
miles  further  through  the  forests,  and  finds  its  estuary  in  Alatamaha 
Sound.  There  are  14  feet  water  over  the  bar,  and  the  Oconee  branch  is 
navigable  for  boats  of  30  tons  to  Milledgeville,  the  metropolis,  300  miles 
from  the  sea.  Ohoopee  is  an  important  branch  of  the  Alatamaha,  which 
has  a course  of  100  miles.  Satilla  River  empties  into  the  Atlantic  be- 
tween St.  Symons  and  the  Cumberland  Islands.  The  rivers  of  Georgia 
that  rise  in  the  Mississippi  valley  have  been  already  noticed. 

Islands.  In  front  of  the  broad  belt  of  salt  marsh,  that  skirts  the  sea 
shore,  is  a chain  of  islands  of  great  value  for  their  capability  of  yielding 
sea  island  cotton,  and  for  being  retreats,  during  the  sickly  months,  for  the 
low  country  planters.  The  names  of  the  principal  islands  follow : Tybee, 
Ossaw,  Ossabaw,  St.  Catharine’s,  Cumberland,  Jekyl,  Sapelo,  and  St. 
Symon’s. 

Chief  Towns.  Savannah,  the  commercial  capital,  is  situated  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Savannah,  17  miles  from  its  estuary,  118  miles  S.  W. 
from  Charleston,  and  658  S.  W.  from  Washington.  Its  position  is  a low 
sandy  plain.  It  was  formerly  built  of  wood,  and  insalubrious  from  its 
marshy  surface  and  contiguity  to  rice  swamps.  It  has  suffered  severely 
from  fires,  and  the  parts  destroyed  have  been  handsomely  rebuilt.  The 
rice  swamps  in  the  immediate  vicinity  are  no  longer  inundated,  and  the 
health  of  the  city  is  since  much  improved.  It  contains  12  public  build- 
ings and  8 churches.  The  Presbyterian  church  is  an  elegant  and  spacious 
edifice  of  stone.  The  Exchange  is  a large  building  5 stories  high.  The 
Academy  is  partly  of  brick  and  partly  of  stone,  180  feet  front,  60  feet 
Vol.  II.  14 


106 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


wide,  and  3 stories  high.  There  are  10  public  squares  planted  with  trees, 
among  which  the  beautiful  China  trees  are  conspicuous.  It  is  a place  of 
very  great  trade,  and  has  exported  over  120,000  bales  of  cotton,  beside 
large  amounts  of  rice  and  tobacco,  in  a year.  It  is  defended  by  two  forts 
and  the  entrance  to  the  river  indicated  by  a light  house  on  Tybee  Island. 
In  1820,  463  buildings  were  destroyed  by  fire,  valued  at  $4,000,000. 
Population,  in  1820,  7,523,  of  whom  nearly  half  were  slaves.  In  1830, 
7,473. 

Augusta  is  a handsome  town  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Savannah,  127 
miles  above  Savannah.  It  is  laid  out  with  great  regularity.  It  is  hand- 
somely built,  and  chiefly  of  brick.  Being  midway  between  the  upper  and 
lower  country,  it  is  a central  emporium  of  business.  It  contains  8 pub- 
lic buildings  and  5 churches.  The  public  buildings  are  spacious,  and 
many  of  the  private  houses  elegant.  No  town  has  more  business  accord- 
ing to  its  size.  It  is  a great  depot  of  cotton  and  tobacco,  brought  down 
from  the  upper  country.  It  communicates  with  Savannah  by  steam  boats. 
It  has  suffered,  as  well  as  Savannah,  severely  by  fires — but  is  at  present 
flourishing.  It  is  73  miles  S.  W.  of  Columbia,  and  138  N.  W.  of  Char- 
leston. Population  in  1820, 4,000.  In  1830,  6,696. 

Milledgeville  is  situated  on  the  W.  bank  of  the  Oconee,  300  miles  by 
the  curves  of  the  river,  from  the  sea.  Though  in  the  upper  country  it  is 
near  the  borders  of  the  low  country.  Its  situation  is  elevated  and  pleas- 
ant, and  central  to  a fertile  and  populous  country.  The  state  house,  ar- 
senal, and  penitentiary,  are  all  large  and  conspicuous  buildings.  It  con- 
tains some  other  public  buildings,  2 or  3 churches,  and  about  3,000  in- 
habitants. It  is  87  miles  S.  W.  from  Augusta,  and  170  N.  W.  from 
Savannah. 

Athens,  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Oconee,  is  the  seat  of  the  University 
of  Georgia.  The  names  of  the  other  principal  villages  follow:  Waynes- 
borough,  Louisville,  Georgetown,  Warrenton,  Dublin,  Sandersville,  Sparta, 
Eatonton,  Greensburgh,  Madison,  Jefferson,  Clarksborough,  Watkinsville, 
Marion,  Clinton,  Monticello,  Sunbury,  Darien,  and  St.  Mary’s. 

Minerals.  Near  Milledgeville  is  a bed  of  yellow  ochre.  Mineral 
springs  are  found  in  different  parts  of  the  country.  Copper  ores,  and  the 
greatest  abundance  of  iron  ore  have  been  discovered.  The  gold  region 
extends  in  a broad  belt  through  this  state.  The  discoveries  have  been 
numerous  and  productive  in  the  Cherokee  country;  and  collisions  of  a 
serious  character  have  ensued  between  miners  claiming  to  dig  under  the 
authority  of  the  Cherokees,  the  State,  and  the  United  States.  Many  have 
supposed  that  gold  would  be  found  more  abundantly  in  the  highlands  of 
Georgia  and  Alabama,  than  in  the  eastern  section  of  the  gold  region. 


ATLANTIC  STATES. 


107 


Religion . The  aspect  of  the  religious  character  and  denominations  of 
this  state  differs  little  from  that  of  South  Carolina.  The  Baptists  and 
Methodists  are  the  prevalent  denominations. 

General  Remarks.  This  state,  in  common  with  South  Carolina,  has 
adopted  a tone  of  querulousness  complaining  of  poverty  and  depression. 
The  teaching  of  political  economy,  in  regard  to  its  bearing  upon  the  slave 
states,  indicates  alike  to  them  all  new  views  respecting  personal  labor. 
The  children  of  the  wealthier  planters  should  be  taught,  that  industry  is 
not  dishonor;  and  should  be  trained  to  become  sufficient  to  themselves. 
Retrenchment,  economy,  and  the  raising  and  manufacturing  every  thing, 
that  domestic  industry  can  supply,  which  is  requisite  for  the  wants  of  a 
plantation,  are  duties  imperiously  prescribed  by  their  circumstances.  The 
sugar  cane  bids  fair  to  succeed,  as  a new  species  of  cultivation.  In  the 
remote  periods  of  the  colonial  history  of  Georgia,  the  manufacture  of  silk 
on  a considerable  scale,  was  practiced  with  entire  success.  A single  acre 
in  the  cultivation  of  the  native  grape  yielded,  on  experiment,  $160  nett 
profit  from  the  sale  of  the  wine.  An  abundant  crop  of  indigo,  of  an  ex- 
cellent quality,  can  be  grown  in  almost  every  part  of  the  state.  Its  inte- 
rior and  western  parts  are  peculiarly  favorable  to  manufactures.  With 
mines  both  of  iron  and  gold,  the  extent  and  resources  of  which  can  only 
be  measured  by  the  imagination,  and  being  one  of  the  largest  states,  in 
regard  to  extent  of  surface  and  capabilities,  ^Georgia  has  within  herself 
all  the  elements  for  becoming  one  of  the  first  states  in  the  Union.  Wis- 
dom, dignity,  moderation  and  forbearance  in  her  councils  are  alone  re- 
quisite to  produce  the  desired  result. 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS 


IN 

NORTH  AMERICA. 


GREENLAND. 

Position.  Greenland  was  long  accounted  a part  of  our  continent,  but 
is  now  supposed  to  be  an  immense  island.  The  most  advanced  post  of 
(he  Danes  towards  the  north  pole  is  Uppernavitch  in  72°  30' ; and  the 
most  southern  in  64°  10'.  Ships  have  not  been  known  to  have  doubled 
its  northern  extremity.  Davis’  Straits  to  the  west  separate  it  from  Amer- 
ica. Its  southern  extremity  is  Cape  Farewell. 

Climate . Situated  altogether  in  the  polar  circle,  this  country  has 
long  winter  nights,  and  short  summer  days.  The  flitting  glimmer  of  the 
Aurora  Borealis  softens  the  horror  of  these  polar  nights.  Eight  tenths  of 
the  year  it  is  subject  to  the  empire  of  frost.  The  contiguous  ocean  is 
covered  either  with  fields  of  ice,  prodigious  icebergs,  or  mountains  of  ice, 
that  are  of  immense  size,  rise  many  hundred  feet  in  the  air,  brilliant  with 
all  the  colors  of  the  bow,  and  having  their  moveable  bases  fixed  as  deep  in 
the  ocean.  In  winter  the  breath  emitted  returns  in  a little  cloud  of  hoar 
frost,  the  mercury  becomes  stationary,  and  congealed  through  all  the  se- 
vere weather.  The  inhabitants  of  these  dreary  regions  can  know  nothing 
of  our  vernal  airs,  and  soft  south  breezes.  We  cannot  imagine,  how 
people  can  endure  this  period  of  frost  and  intense  cold,  passed  in  dark- 
ness and  storms.  But  the  goodness  of  the  Creator  is  shown,  in  rendering 
the  people  of  all  lands  satisfied  with  their  condition.  The  terror  of  the 
Greenlanders  is,  lest  the  inhabitants  of  more  southern  countries  should 
immigrate  among  them,  and  deprive  them  of  their  fancied  paradise. 

Soil  and  country.  Icy  Peak,  an  enormous  mass  of  ice,  rises  near  the 
mouth  of  a river,  and  diffuses  such  a brilliancy  through  the  air,  that  it  is 
seen  at  the  distance  of  more  than  30  miles.  The  country  along  the  sea 
shore  presents  rugged  masses  of  rock  interspersed  with  huge  blocks  of 
ice,  indicating  the  conflict  of  chaos  and  winter.  The  interior  is  covered 
with  a chain  of  innumerable  mountains,  most  of  which  are  unexplored. 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


109 


Coal  and  various  minerals  and  useful  and  beautiful  fossils  have  been  dis- 
covered here. 

Smoke  of  Ice.  This  arises  from  the  crevices  of  marine  ice.  The  rare 
occurrence  of  rain,  the  small  quantity  of  snow,  and  the  intense  degree  of 
cold  produced  by  the  northeast  wind  lead  us  to  suppose,  that  the  north- 
east parts  of  Greenland  constitute  a great  Archipelago,  encumbered  with 
perpetual  ice  which  for  many  centuries  has  been  piled  together  by  the 
winds  and  currents. 

Animals.  Hares,  reindeer,  white  bears,  foxes  and  large  dogs,  that 
howl  instead  of  barking,  and  are  employed  by  the  Greenlanders,  in  draw- 
ing their  sledges,  comprise  the  animals  of  this  country  Immense  flocks 
of  sea  fowl  frequent  the  rivers  and  shores.  The  rivers  abound  in  salmon 
and  the  seas  in  turbots  and  herrings.  It  is  a curious  fact,  that  those  ani- 
mals, whose  blood  is  of  the  temperature  of  the  sea,  are  found  in  greatest 
nnmbers  under  these  icy  fields  and  mountains.  The  inhabitants  of  North 
Greenland  pursue  the  whale — and  those  of  South  Greenland  the  seal. 
The  flesh  of  the  animals  is  their  chief  food.  The  skins  of  the  seals 
serve  them  for  clothing,  and  as  the  material  for  their  boats.  Their  tendons 
are  used  for  thread,  their  bladders,  as  bottles,  their  fat  sometimes  as  butter, 
and  at  other  times,  as  tallow,  and  their  blood  is  considered  by  the  Green- 
lander the  richest  broth. 

Exports.  In  value  from  50  to  100,000  rix  dollars. 

Natives.  They  are  of  a low  stature,  have  black  hair,  small  eyes,  a flat 
face,  and  a yellowish  brown  skin,  evidently  assimilating  them  to  the  Es- 
quimaux. 

Language.  It  is  remarkable  for  its  copiousness,  and  regular  grammat 
ical  forms.  Its  inflections  are  as  numerous  and  as  varied  as  the  Greek. 
The  women  employ  words  and  inflections,  which  none,  but  themselves,  are 
permitted  to  use.  The  Greenlanders  call  themselves  Innouk,  or  brother; 
their  national  name  Kalalit,  and  their  country  Kalalit  Nonnet. 

Implements  and  canoes.  They  make  use  of  the  bladder  of  the  sea 
dog,  distended  with  wind,  and  attached  to  the  javelin,  with  which  they 
strike  the  whale.  The  animal,  when  wounded,  feels  this  bag  of  wind 
constantly  dragging  him  upwards  to  the  surface.  Their  boats  resemble  a 
box  formed  of  little  branches,  and  covered  on  every  side  with  the  skin  of 
the  sea  dog.  They  are  12  feet  long  and  a foot  and  a half  wide.  In  the 
middle  of  the  upper  surface,  there  is  a hole,  surrounded  by  a wood- 
en hoop,  with  a skin  attached  to  it,  which  admits  its  being  drawn  round 
the  body,  like  a purse  by  a thong.  Supplied  with  a single  oar,  which  is 
very  thin,  three  or  four  feet  long,  and  broader  at  the  two  sides,  the  boat- 
man, paddling  rapidly  to  the  right  and  left,  advances  in  a straight  line 
across  the  waves,  in  the  midst  of  the  tumult  of  a tempest,  little  more 


110 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


fearful  of  the  surges  than  the  whales.  The  billows  dash  over  him.  He 
shakes  off  the  water,  like  a sea-fowl.  He  is  capsized — but  not  being  ex- 
actly disposed  to  live  under  the  water,  with  a dextrous  movement  of  his 
oar  he  rights  himself,  and  becomes  the  companion  and  rival  of  the  whales. 

Character.  Is  an  undefmable  mixture  of  good  and  bad.  They  are 
ardently  attached  to  their  country  and  its  customs,  and  of  course  adverse 
to  the  Danish  system  of  civilization,  which  they  charge  with  having 
brought  spirituous  liquors  among  them.  They  luok  with  abhorrence  up- 
on public  punishments,  and  think  it  enough  to  load  the  malefactor,  with 
reproach. 

Religion.  The  Moravians  have  had  great  success,  of  late  years,  in 
converting  this  people.  These  benevolent  men  endured  every  thing,  to 
train  themselves  to  sustain  the  climate  and  modes  of  life  of  these  people. 
By  these  labors  a certain  degree  of  civilization  has  been  introduced  among 
them.  They  have  learned  to  make  barrels  and  boats,  and  to  comprehend 
the  use  of  money.  The  divinities  of  the  pagan  Greenlanders  were  Torn- 
garsook,  and  a malevolent  goddess  without  a name,  who  inhabited  a pal- 
ace at  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  guarded  by  terrific  sea  dogs.  They  believed 
in  a paradise,  where  the  soul,  in  a state  of  happy  indolence,  was  nourish- 
ed with  the  heads  of  sea  dogs.  Their  priests  were  called  Angekok,  and 
their  enchanters  Uiseets.  The  Danes  have  encountered  incredible 
sacrifices  and  dangers  in  this  region  of  winter  and  storms  to  christianize 
this  people. 

Population , Towns.  The  Danish  establishments  are  Uppernavich, 
Umanak,  Godhavn,  Jacob’shavn,  Holsteinborg,  Sukerstoppen,  Gothaab, 
Friderickshaab  and  Julian’shaab.  The  largest  of  the  Moravian  establish- 
ments is  called  Lichtenau.  In  1802  the  population  amounted  to  5,122 
souls.  Vaccination  has  been  introduced  among  them,  and  will  secure 
them  hereafter  from  the  terrible  ravages  of  the  small  pox.  These  people 
wander  along  a coast  of  900  miles.  But  neither  the  Danes  or  Greenland- 
ers have  yet  passed  the  icy  chain  of  mountains,  which  cut  off  their 
intercourse  with  the  interior. 


ICELAND, 

Must  after  all  be  considered,  as  included  in  the  western  continent.  It 
was  known  seven  centuries  before  Columbus.  It  is  a land  of  prodigies. 
Subterranean  fires  burst  through  the  frozen  soil,  and  boiling  springs 
shoot  up  their  fountains  amidst  eternal  snows.  The  people  are  free,  and 
in  this  rude  and  strange  country  feel  the  strong  impulses  of  poetry.  The 
extent  of  the  country  is  4,500  square  leagues. 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


Ill 


Rocks,  Mountains.  The  whole  country  is  little  more,  than  a chain  of 
immense  rocks,  covered  with  snow,  while  fire  burns  forever  within  their 
subterranean  caverns.  Various  fossils  and  shining  stones  and  lavas  are 
found  here. 

Volcanoes.  Twelve  are  known  in  this  island.  The  most  celebrated  is 
Mount  Hecla,  4,800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  volcanoes  of 
Scaptefell  made  themselves  known,  in  1783,  by  terrific  phenomena.  The 
river  Skapt-Aa  was  filled  with  pumice  stones  and  lava.  A fertile  district 
was  instantly  changed  to  a desert.  Sulphureous  exhalations  and  clouds  of 
cinders  spread  over  the  whole  island,  and  an  epidemic  was  the  conse- 
quence. Immediately  before  this  eruption,  a volcanic  island  arose  out  of 
the  sea,  and  shortly  after  sunk  again,  and  its  place  was  no  more  known. 

Hot  Springs . Some  are  tepid,  and  are  called  baths ; others  throw  up 
boiling  water  with  great  noise,  and  are  called  Hverer  or  caldrons.  The 
most  remarkable  is  Geyser  near  Skalholt,  in  the  centre  of  a plain, 
and  surrounded  by  40  smaller  springs.  The  mouth  of  this  spring  is  19 
feet  in  diameter,  and  its  basin  39  feet.  The  column  is  thrown  up  from 
88  to  92  feet  high.  It  is  surrounded  by  a dense  smoke,  and  falls  back 
upon  itself  in  spray.  The  lately  discovered  spring  Strok  rivals  Geyser. 
Its  aperture  is  smaller,  but  it  presents  a better  defined  surface,  is  thrown 
up  with  greater  power,  to  a higher  elevation,  and  disperses  in  the  air, 
like  artificial  fountains.  Two  other  springs  near  rise,  and  fall  alternately. 
The  whole  of  this  strange  valley  is  filled  with  springs,  and  surrounded 
with  lava  and  pumice  stone.  In  these  springs  the  pagan  ancestors  of  the 
inhabitants  were  baptized,  and  the  present  Icelanders  cook  their  food; 
and  employ  them  for  various  purposes.  The  cows,  that  drink  of  these 
waters,  give  an  extraordinary  quantity  of  milk.  They  have  many  mineral 
springs,  to  which  they  give  the  name  of  beer  springs. 

Fossils.  Among  the  most  curious  is  a heavy  inflammable  substance, 
called  in  Icelandic  Surturbrand , which  burns  with  a flame.  Another 
kind  of  "mineral  wood,  heavier  than  coal,  burns  without  flame,  and  con- 
tains chalcedony  in  its  transverse  fissures.  A great  variety  of  minerals 
is  found  here,  together  with  marble,  lime,  plaster,  porcelain,  clay,  bole, 
onyx,  agate,  jasper,  sulphur  and  slate.  Under  your  feet  you  see  and 
the  clay  constantly  bubbling  up,  and  hear  the  din  of  waters  boiling, 
hissing  in  the  interior  of  the  mountain,  while  a hot  vapor  hovers  above  the 
surface,  from  which  columns,  of  muddy  water  frequently  shoot  into 
the  air. 

Air , Climate.  Through  the  air,  which  is  filled  with  icy  particles,  the 
sun  and  moon  often  show  double.  The  Aurora  Borealis  reflects  a thou- 
sand different  colors.  Every  where  the  magic  illusion  of  mirage  creates 
phantom  seas,  and  imaginary  shores.  The  ordinary  climate  would  be 


112 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


sufficiently  temperate,  to  admit  the  cultivation  of  wheat,  were  it  not  that 
the  floating  ice  sometimes  fixes  between  the  northern  and  southern  prom- 
ontories. A frightful  degree  of  cold  is  the  consequence.  Vegetation  is 
entirely  destroyed,  and  famine  and  despair  settle  upon  those  mountains, 
which  are  heated  in  vain  by  subterranean  fires.  Out  of  100  years,  43 
were  of  this  character,  and  14  years  of  famine.  In  1784  and  1785,  when 
intense  cold  succeeded  volcanic  eruptions,  9,000  persons,  one-fifth  of 
the  whole  population,  perished,  with  a great  portion  of  the  sheep,  horses, 
and  horned  cattle. 

Vegetation.  A species  of  wild  wheat,  called  Metur , affords  good  flour. 
The  lichen  Icelandicus,  and  several  other  species  of  lichen,  a great  num- 
ber of  antiscorbutic  roots,  and  even  marine  plants  are  used  as  food. — 
Iceland  produces  an  immense  quantity  of  wild  berries  of  excellent  flavor. 
Gardening  is  practised  over  all  the  country.  Cauliflowers  do  not  succeed, 
and  potatoes  have  made  but  small  progress.  In  former  time  the  vales  of 
the  south  of  the  island  were  covered  with  extensive  forests.  But  they 
have  been  improvidently  destroyed.  A few  birch  woods,  and  many 
bushes  remain.  But  the  wood  which  the  earth  denies  them  is  furnished 
by  the  ocean.  The  immense  quantity  of  thick  trunks  of  pines,  firs,  and 
other  trees,  which  are  thrown  upon  the  northern  coast  of  Iceland,  espe- 
cially upon  North  Cape,  and  Cape  Langaness,  is  one  of  the  most  astonish- 
ing phenomenan  in  nature.  It  comes  floating  down  upon  them  in  an 
abundance  to  be  greater  than  the  demand  of  the  people. 

Domestic  Animals.  The  oxen  and  cows  are  without  horns.  The 
sheep  have  two  and  sometimes  three,  with  long  wool,  and  are  very  large. 
There  are  400,000  sheep,  and  40,000  homed  cattle  upon  the  island. 
Pasturage  would  be  their  true  riches,  if  they  would  attend  to  it.  The 
reindeer  has  been  imported  and  thrives.  The  foxes  yield  most  beautiful 
furs.  The  white  bear  sometimes  floats  upon  their  shores  on  the  ice. 
Among  many  sea  fowls  is  the  duck,  that  yields  the  eider  down. 

Fish.  Their  shores  and  rivers  offer  these  riches  in  an  abundance,  from 
which  they  profit  little.  The  salmon,  trout,  barbel,  and  other  excellent 
fish  swim  in  their  waters  unmolested.  Eels  abound,  but  the  inhabitants 
are  afraid  to  eat  them,  fancying  them  the  young  of  the  great  sea  serpent, 
which,  according  to  the  mythology  of  Odin,  encircles  the  whole  earth. 
The  Icelanders  pretend  to  have  seen  him  lifting  his  head  above  the  sea 
upon  their  solitary  shores.  Herrings  swarm  upon  the  coast, — but  it  is 
only  recently  that  the  natives  have  learned  the  use  of  the  net.  Small 
whales,  sea  calves,  sea  dogs,  and  cod,  are  the  common  objects  of  their 
fishery. 

Divisions , Towns.  Iceland  is  divided  into  four  divisions,  correspond- 
ing to  the  four  cardinal  points.  Skalholt  and  Holum  were  formerly  towns 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


113 


that  were  seats  of  dioceses.  They  now  constitute  but  one.  Reikiavik 
is  the  capital,  and  formerly  contained  100  houses.  Besestadr  is  the  seat 
of  an  academy  with  a library  of  1 ,500  volumes,  no  doubt  the  most  north- 
ern library  in  the  world. 

Commerce.  The  exports  are  fish,  train  oil,  meat,  tallow,  butter,  hides, 
eider  down,  wool,  worsted  thread,  and  coarse  woollens.  In  1806  they 
amounted  to  191,236  rix  dollars,  and  the  importations  to  167,205. 

Inhabitants.  Are  of  moderate  stature,  not  strong,  seldom  have  a nu- 
merous offspring,  and  want  industry.  But  they  are  honest,  benevolent, 
faithful,  obliging,  and  hospitable.  The  men  fish  and  tend  their  flocks. 
The  women  cure  the  fish,  cook,  sew,  and  spin.  They  have  some  manu- 
factures in  woollen.  They  are  so  attached  to  their  country  that  they  im- 
agine they  can  be  happy  no  where  else.  They  are  naturally  disposed  to  piety. 
Their  domestic  amusements  are  reading  history  and  poetry.  One  of  the  men 
gives  his  hand  to  a woman,  and  they  sing  couplets  alternately,  the  rest 
occasionally  joining  in  the  chorus.  They  are  fond  of  chess.  Their  dress 
is  neat  and  decent.  They  live  more  plentifully  than  formerly.  They 
have  literary  societies,  which  have  published  memoirs.  There  are  many 
public  libraries  among  them.  E^ry  Icelander  knows  how  to  write  and 
calculate.  Wine,  coffee,  and  spices  are  not  unknown  among  them.  Such 
is  the  colony  of  the  Scandinavians,  placed  between  the  ice  of  the  poles, 
and  the  flames  of  the  abyss. 


SPITSBERGEN. 

To  the  north  of  Iceland  three  large  islands  and  a group  of  smaller 
ones  have  received  this  name.  On  the  eastern  peninsula  of  this  group, 
the  Dutch  whalers  formerly  had  an  establishment,  called  Sweerinburg* 
The  mountains,  crowned  with  snow,  flanked  with  glaciers,  and  probably 
composed  of  red  granite,  shoot  up  in  portentous  brilliance  to  a great 
height,  and  are  seen  far  off  over  the  sea.  The  deep  silence  increases  the 
mysterious  horror  of  the  approaching  navigator.  Yet  even  here  nature 
has  its  annual  resurrection,  and  a summer  day  of  five  months,  followed 
by  a night  as  long  of  winter.  Towards  the  noon  of  this  long  day,  the 
heat  penetrates  a little  into  the  frozen  earth,  expanding  a few  flowers. 
Here  among  the  marine  forests  of  the  Fuci  the  whales  roll  their  enormous 
bodies  of  fat,  which  the  whalers  pursue  to  the  regions  of  eternal  ice. 
Here  beneath  the  mountains  of  ice  they  take  their  gambols  and  their  loves. 
Here  the  sea  dogs  dry  their  brown  furs  on  the  ice.  Here  the  sea  morse 
displays  his  enormous  tusks  of  ivory.  Here,  too,  is  his  mortal  enemy, 
Vol.  II.  15 


114 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


the  sea  unicorn.  Here  the  whale  is  pursued,  and  sometimes  destroyed  by 
the  sword  fish.  Among  these  shapeless  and  colossal  monsters,  is  seen 
swimming  in  the  waves,  or  floating  on  the  ice,  the  ferocious  and  terrible 
polar  bear,  the  enemy  alike  of  all,  pursuing  every  thing  that  has  life,  de- 
vouring every  animal  that  he  encounters;  and  then,  grovding  with  satiated 
delight,  he  seats  himself  on  his  trophy  of  carcasses  and  bones. 

Whale  Fishery.  There  have  been  in  these  seas  400  large  whaling  ves- 
sels at  a time.  In  48  years  the  Dutch  caught  32,000  whales,  the  whale- 
bone and  oil  of  which  were  worth  £14,000,000  sterling.  The  whales 
are  diminishing.  -Sea  morses  are  still  abundant.  The  skin  is  of  use  for 
suspending  carriages,  and  its  teeth  are  more  precious  than  those  of  the 
elephant.  The  horn  of  the  sea  unicorn  was  once  an  object  of  supersti- 
tious veneration,  as  a medicine.  A margrave  of  Bareuth  accepted  one 
in  payment  of  a sum  of  60,000  rix  dollars.  Here,  too,  is  procured  from 
a species  of  whale  the  substance  improperly  called  spermaceti.  Count- 
less millions  of  herrings,  of  more  real  value  than  all  the  rest,  "swarm  in 
these  seas. 

Floating  Wood.  Here,  as  upon  the  shores  of  the  other  northern 
countries,  are  floated  down  immense  quantities  of  drift  wood.  Not  only 
pines  and  larches,  and  Siberian  cedars  accumulate,  but  even,  strange  as  it 
may  seem,  Pernambuco  and  Campeachy  woods,  probably  brought  hither 
by  the  gulf  stream. 


NEW  SIBERIA— RUSSIAN  AMERICA. 

Extends  from  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  at  Behring’s  Straits,  65°,  to 
Portlock  Harbor,  58°.  This  country  interposes  between  the  immense 
desolate  regions  of  the  British  North-West  Fur  Company,  and  the  terri- 
tory of  the  United  States  on  the  Columbia  or  Oregon.  The  Aleutian 
Islands,  lying  between  the  continent  of  Asia  and  America,  properly  be- 
long to  this  division,  though  in  physical  geography,  rather  to  the  former 
continent.  We  shall  omit  them  here,  and  speak  only  of  the  Russian  ter- 
ritories on  the  American  continent. 

Physical  Aspect.  This  country  presents  a most  savage  and  gloomy 
appearance.  The  hills  are  clothed  with  pines  and  birches.  Above  them 
rise  naked  mountains,  covered  with  eternal  ices,  from  which  often  roll 
down  with  frightful  noise,  and  carrying  ruin  in  their  path,  enormous  ava- 
lanches, that  fill  the  vallies,  and  dam  up  the  rivers.  When  these  masses 
roll  into  the  sea,  the  affrightened  navigator  far  off  hears  the  echo  of  the 
concussion,  and,  in  the  rising  and  sinking  of  the  waves,  feels  the  effect 


DANISH  POSSESSIONS. 


115 


dashing  his  vessel  to  and  fro.  Between  these  mountains  and  the  sea  the 
soil  is  black,  and  might  seem  to  promise  fertility.  The  country  is  covered 
with  great  extents  of  spongy  morasses,  the  soil  of  which  seems  firm,  but 
into  which  the  traveller  sinks.  The  pine  tree  obtains  its  full  develope- 
ment  here,  but  the  other  trees  are  stinted  and  dwarfish.  On  this  coast 
the  sea  is  rapidly  gaining  upon  the  land. 

Natives . They  are  more  numerous  than  might  be  expected,  and  are 
not  unlike  the  tribes  of  the  opposite  coast,  with  whom,  however,  they  are 
at  war.  The  savages,  dependent  upon  the  Russians,  are  computed  at 
50,000.  There  are  no  large  rivers  in  this  region.  On  Behring’s  Bay  the 
Russians  have  a small  fort.  Their  chief  establishment,  New  Archangel, 
is  two  degrees  farther  south,  in  a milder  climate.  About  this  place  grow 
large  pines  and  American  cedars,  and  a great  variety  of  berries.  Fish  is 
abundant  and  delicious,  and  rye  and  barley  succeed.  The  Kalougians, 
the  chief  tribe  on  this  coast,  are  numerous  and  warlike.  These  people 
possess  fire  arms,  forge  iron  and  copper,  work  a kind  of  tapestry,  and 
weave  baskets  and  hats  with  great  neatness  and  taste. 

Commerce  of  the  Russians.  The  furs  obtained  are  chiefly  those  of  the 
sea  wolf  and  the  sea  otter.  The  latter  animals  have  become  rare.  From 
the  interior  they  obtain  of  the  Indians  fox  skins,  blue,  black,  and  gray. 
Parties  of  Russian  hunters  have  already  crossed  the  Rocky  Mountains. 
The  Russian  Company  has  the  large  capital  of  £260,000.  The  chief 
seat  of  this  company  is  at  Irkutsk  in  Siberia, 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS 


IN 

NORTH  AMERICA. 


NEW  BRITAIN. 

Under  this  name  is  comprehended  the  immense  and  dreary  country, 
extending  from  the  Canadian  lakes  to  the  north-west  coast  and  Hudson’s 
Bay.  This  bay  divides  the  country  into  two  great  divisions,  eastern  and 
western.  The  eastern  comprises  Labrador,  and  East  Maine,  and  the 
western  New  North  and  New  South  Wales. 

Physical  Aspect.  Rivers.  This  dreary  country  is  intersected  with 
rivers,  lakes,  and  marshes,  to  a greater  extent  than  any  other  country  with 
•which  we  are  acquainted.  Some  of  the  rivers  roll  into  the  unknown 
seas  of  the  north,  others  into  Hudson’s  Bay.  Among  the  former  are 
Athapescow  and  Ounjigab,  or  Peace  River.  The  former  loses  itself  in 
Lake  Athapescow.  Slave  River  empties  itself  into  Slave  Lake.  Out  of 
this  lake  issues  McKenzie’s  River,  which  empties  into  the  Arctic  Sea. 
The  adventurous  Franklin  has  surveyed  600  miles  of  this  coast.  In  this 
region  of  perpetual  winter,  in  67°  30',  he  found  Esquimaux,  diminutive 
and  cowardly,  and  every  where  the  denizens  of  polar  rigor.  Slave  Lake 
is  300  miles  long,  interspersed  with  islands,  which  are  covered  with  trees 
resembling  the  mulberry.  The  lakes  and  rivers  in  this  region  join  to 
form  one  mighty  stream,  extending  1,800  miles  in  length,  and  resembling 
the  magnificent  rivers  of  Siberia.  Copper-Mine  and  Churchill  Rivers 
empty,  the  one  into  the  Arctic  Sea,  and  the  other  into  Hudson’s  Bay. 
Two  considerable  rivers  unite  to  form  Saschaschawin,  which  falls  into 
Lake  Winnipeek.  This  lake  receives,  also,  the  Assiniboil  and  Red  River, 
and  discharges  itself  into  Hudson’s  Bay,  by  the  great  rivers  Nelson  and 
Severn.  Lake  Winnipeek  is  18  miles  broad  by  100  long.  Its  banks  are 
shaded  by  the  sugar  maple  and  white  poplar. 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


117 


Climate.  Such  is  the  severity  of  winter  here,  that  even  in  57°  the 
lakes  freeze  S feet  thick.  Brandy  congeals.  The  rocks  split  with  a noise 
like  that  of  the  loudest  artillery,  and  the  shattered  fragments  fly  to  an 
astonishing  distance.  The  temperature  is  capricious,  and  the  changes 
sudden.  The  aurora  borealis  sheds  a light  sometimes  equal  to  that  of  a 
full  moon. 

Soil.  Barrenness  and  desolation  spread  on  every  side.  The  sea  is 
open  only  from  the  commencement  of  July  to  the  end  of  September. 
Even  then  the  navigator  is  not  free  from  the  dangers  of  encountering  ice- 
bergs. 

Fish.  Hudson’s  Bay  affords  but  few  fish.  But  the  most  northern 
lakes  abound  in  the  best  kinds,  such  as  sturgeon,  pike,  trout,  and  salmon. 
The  shores  are  inhabited  by  infinite  numbers  of  aquatic  fowls.  About 
Lake  Winnipeek  wild  rice  is  abundant,  the  favorite  food  of  these  tenants 
of  the  streams.  Franklin  found  that  the  Copper-Mine  River,  even  at  its 
entrance  into  the  Polar  Sea,  yielded  an  abundance  of  fine  fish,  although 
there  were  none  in  the  sea  adjoining. 

Animals.  These  are  the  buffalo,  reindeer,  musk-ox,  fallow  deer,  bea- 
ver, wolf,  foxes  of  different  colors,  catamount,  wild  cat,  white,  black,  and 
brown  bears,  wolverene,  otter,  raccoon,  muskrat,  mink,  pine  martin,  er- 
mine, porcupine,  hare,  varieties  of  squirrels,  mice,  &c. 

Vegetation.  There  is  a great  abundance  of  berry-bearing  shrubs, 
gooseberries,  whortleberries,  and  culinary  herbs.  In  some  parts  of  the 
country  the  terebinthines  are  common,  and  other  trees  obtain  a consider- 
able size.  On  Red  River  different  kinds  of  culture  succeed  well. 

Trade.  Is  shared  by  two  Companies,  the  Hudson’s  Bay,  and  North- 
West  Company.  The  first  exports,  annually,  to  the  amount  of  £16,000, 
and  imports  £30,000.  The  other  company  has  been  more  enterprising, 
and  has  extended  its  efforts  to  the  Pacific,  and  the  Arctic  Sea.  The  limits 
of  the  companies  being  undefined,  they  have  come  in  collision. 

Lord  Selkirk.  In  these  remote  regions  Lord  Selkirk  settled  a very 
interesting  colony,  which  also  had  its  collisions  with  the  fur  companies, 
which  were  afterwards  happily  adjusted.  The  industrious  and  moral 
Scotch  of  this  nobleman’s  colony,  succeeded  in  raising  fine  wheat  and 
potatoes.  Lord  Selkirk  has  since  deceased,  and  this  interesting  colony  is 
dispersed. 

Natives.  The  Esquimaux  spread  over  the  country  from  Gulf  Welcome 
to  Behring’s  Straits.  Their  huts  have  been  met  with  as  far  north  as  76°. 
Little,  squat,  feeble,  the  complexion  of  these  polar  men  has  little  of  the 
copper  color  of  the  other  American  aborigines,  and  is  rather  of  a dirty, 
reddish  yellow.  Their  huts  are  circular,  covered  with  deer  skins,  and 
entered  by  creeping  on  the  belly.  Yet  these  feeble  and  simple  beings 


118 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


have  been  taught  by  necessity  many  inventions,  which  do  honor  to  human 
nature.  They  make  a snow  house  in  a few  hours,  exceedingly  com- 
fortable. Some  of  the  tribes  are  wholly  ignorant  of  boats  and  canoes. 
Many  circumstances  indicate  them  to  be  a peculiar  race  of  people.  They 
seem  to  be  wholly  destitute  of  religious  ideas.  Some  of  the  tribes  have 
canoes  made  of  the  skin  of  the  sea  calf,  with  which  they  sail  with  amaz- 
ing swiftness.  They  work  a gray  and  porous  stone  into  neat  pitchers 
and  kettles.  The  Chippeways  are  the  enemies  of  the  Esquimaux,  and 
have  in  their  turn  to  contend  with  the  Knisteneaux.  The  Chippeways  are 
a much  higher  order  of  beings  than  the  Esquimaux.  They  hold  them- 
selves to  be  descended  from  a dog.  They  figure  the  Creator  by  a bird, 
whose  eyes  lighten,  and  whose  voice  thunders.  All  the  northern  In- 
dians regard  woman  as  a beast  of  burden,  and  their  own  peculiar  coun- 
tenance and  configuration  as  the  highest  style  of  beauty.  Murder  is  rare 
among  them.  The  perpetrator  of  this  crime  is  abandoned  by  parents  and 
friends  to  wandering  isolation.  Whenever  he  is  seen  issuing  from  his 
concealment,  the  abhorrent  and  general  cry  is  ‘there  goes  the  murderer  1’ 
Knisteneaux  Indians.  Are  the  handsomest  Indians  of  the  north. 
They  inhabit  from  the  Lake  of  the  Mountains,  on  the  north,  to  the  Can- 
adian lakes  of  the  south,  and  from  Hudson’s  Bay  on  the  east,  to  Lake 
Winnipeek  on  the  west.  They  hold  conjugal  chastity  of  little  account, 
and  offer  their  wives  to  strangers;  but  are  otherwise,  when  not  corrupted 
by  the  use  of  ardent  spirits,  mild,  honest,  generous  and  hospitable.  They 
believe  the  fogs,  which  cover  their  marshes,  to  be  the  spirits  of  their  de- 
ceased companions. 


LABRADOR, 

Is  a triangular  peninsula,  bounded  east  by  Davis’ Straits;  south  by 
Canada  and  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence.  Thus  removed  from  the  Arctic 
circle,  we  might  expect  to  find  it  partaking  of  the  temperature  of  the 
milder  climates.  But  it  is  to  the  full  as  frozen,  as  the  countries  just 
described.  It  is  constantly  enveloped  in  fog.  A family  of  the  natives 
was  seen  here  in  a cavern  hollowed  out  of  snow ; the  excavation  seven  feet 
high,  twelve  in  diameter,  and  shaped  like  an  oven.  A plate  of  ice  form- 
ed the  door;  a lamp  lighted  and  warmed  the  interior;  at  a little  distance 
was  a snow  kitchen.  The  inmates  reclined  on  skins.  The  surface  of 
the  country  is  a mass  of  mountains  and  rocks,  interspersed  with  innume- 
rable lakes  and  rivers.  These  abound  with  the  best  kinds  of  fish.  The 
bears  combine  near  the  cataracts  to  catch  the  salmon,  that  are  impeded 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


119 


in  their  attempts  to  ascend.  These  voracious  animals  swallow  them  with 
greediness.  Some  of  the  bears  pursue  them  200  paces  under  water, 
while  the  indolent  remainder  sit  dud  seem  to  enjoy  the  spectacle.  The 
country  swarms'  with  beavers  and  reindeer.  - The  interior  is  more  mild, 
has  vallies,  trees,  wild  cellery  and  other  plants.  The  eider  duck  fre- 
quents the  eastern  coast.  The  beautiful  spar  of  Labrador  is  well  known. 

Moravians.  Have  founded  three  Missionary  settlements,  Nain,  Okkak 
and  Hoffenthal.  The  heathen  Esquimaux  sometimes  put  their  widows 
and  orphans  to  death,  to  save  them  from  the  more  dreadful  death  of  fam- 
ine. The  Missionaries  besides  teaching  them  many  other  useful  things, 
built  a magazine,  in  which  each  of  the  natives  might  deposit  his  useless 
stores,  prevailing  on  them  to  set  apart  a tenth  for  widows  and  orphans. 
This  is  the  true  way  to  convert  a savage  people,  by  showing  them  the 
palpable  fruits  of  the  Gospel. 

Icy  Archipelago,  north  of  these  countries,  has  been  vainly  attempted 
to  be  explored  by  various  adventurous  navigators,  icebergs,  fields  of  ice, 
or  stationary  ice  have  always  barred  all  interior  access  to  these  frightful 
regions.  The  history  of  those  numerous  navigators,  who  have  attempted 
this  terrible  passage,  is  that  of  the  utmost  daring  of  the  human  mind,  and 
the  utmost  suffering,  that  human  nature  can  sustain. 

The  country  still  farther  north,  and  between  Labrador  and  Greenland, 
has  been  called  North  Devon  by  Capt.  Parry.  He  has  named  the  islands 
of  this  new  archipelago,  Cornwallis,  Griffith,  Somerville,  Brown,  Low- 
ther,  Garrat,  Baker,  Davy,  Young,  Bathurst,  By  am,  Morton,  Sabine  and 
Melville.  Cornwallis,  Bathurst  and  Melville  are  the  largest.  The  lat*- 
ter  is  between  74°  25'  and  75°  50' ; 240  by  one  hundred  miles.  It  is  a 
dreary  country  of  ice  and  mosses  and  stratified  sandstone.  Some  vege- 
tation, however  is  seen.  Reindeers,  hares,  and  musk  oxen,  come  here, 
during  the  short  summer,  and  innumerable  tribes  and  varieties  of  water- 
fowl.  The  deserted  huts  of  Esquimaux  are  also  noted  here.  Feb.  20, 
1820,  the  mercury  stood  below  cypher  in  Fahr.  The  common  phenom- 
ena of  polar  meteorology  are  seen.  The  needle  of  the  compass,  approach- 
ing the  pole  scarcely  traverses. 


BRITISH  AMERICA, 

Comprehends  Nova  Scotia,  New  Brunswick,  Lower  Canada  and 
Upper  Canada.  It  lies  south  of  the  countries  just  described,  and  north 
the  United  States.  These  are  of  regions  settled  by  the  whites.  The 
immense  and  dreary  coil  try  of  New  Britain,  upon  which  we  hav’e  touched, 
is  peopled  almost  entirely  by  Indians. 


120 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


NEWFOUNDLAND 

This  large  island,  380  miles  in  length,  shuts  up  the  northern  entrance 
into  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  perpetual  fogs,  that  hover  over  it,  are  pro- 
bably, evaporations  from  the  warm  current  of  the  gulf  stream. 

Productions , Climate.  The  island  is  generally  barren.  It  furnishes 
however,  trees  and  shrubs  sufficient  for  curing  the  fish.  The  glades  occa- 
sionally afford  pasturage.  Wolves,  deer,  foxes,  and  bears  are  among  the 
animals.  The  rivers  abound  in  salmon,  and  other  fish,  otters,  beavers, 
and  other  amphibious  animals. 

Banks.  Fish.  This  island  is  chiefly  important,  on  account  of  its  con- 
tiguity to  the  immense  fisheries  on  the  banks.  These  are  Grand  bank 
100  miles  south  east  of  the  island,  and  G reen  bank  east  of  the  islands  270 
by  120  miles  in  extent.  These  banks,  are,  probably,  deposites  by  the  sand 
brought  down  from  the  tropics  by  the  gulf  stream,  which  also*  bears  down 
under  its  bosom  countless  millions,  of  the  animals,  on  which  the  fish  feed. 
The  temperature  of  the  water  is  mild,  too,  and  the  motion  comparatively 
gentle.  The  fishing  season  begins  in  April,  and  ends  in  October.  At 
this  time  there  are  generally  400  ships,  and  thousands  of  small  crafts  here. 
The  business  is  lucrative; dangerous,  and  an  admirable  nursery  for  our 
hardy  and  adventurous  seamen,  and  furnishes  one  of  the  considerable  ele- 
ments cf  our  trade.  Many  English  and  French  vessels  are  here  in  company. 
Every  part  of  the  process  from  taking  the  hungry  animals  from  the  water, 
to  curing  the  fish  and  delivering  it  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  is  specific, 
and  employs  its  appropriate  process.  The  English  and  French  dry  their 
fish  on  the  island.  We  biing  great  portions  of  ours  pickled  to  our  own 
ports,  and  dry  them  there,  particularly  at  Marblehead,  Gloucester  and 
Beverly.  A great  number  of  acres  around  those  towns  are  covered  with 
the  flakes  or  scaffolds  on  which  the  fish  are  dried.  A vessel  with  twelve 
men  usually  takes  from  20,  to  50,000  fish.  The  whole  employment  not 
only  rears  thousands  of  men  to  consider  the  sea  their  home,  and  storms 
their  element;  but  many  other  thousands  are  employed  in  the  business,  to 
which  this  gives  birth ; and  our  share  of  the  proceeds  in  good  years 
amounts  to  some  millions  of  dollars.  Nothing  can  be  more  unique,  than 
the  modes  of  life  of  these  men,  whose  abode  is  on  the  sea.  They 
are  hale,  healthy,  honest,  intrepid,  and  of  reckless  cheerfulness,  of 
character. 

Dog.  The  animal  of  this  kind,  called  Newfoundland  dog,  is  remark- 
able for  its  great  size,  fine,  glossy  hair,  and  capacity  for  swimming.  It 
has  probably  been  the  mixed  breed  of  the  dog  and  the  wolf.  At  any 
rate,  the  species  was  not  known,  when  the  country  was  first  settled. 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS 


121 


Population;  Inhabitants.  This  island  has  recently  doubled  its  inhab- 
itants. St.  Johns,  Placentia  and  Bonavista  are  considerable  places,  as- 
suming in  their  embellishments  an  European  aspect.  St.  Johns,  the 
capital,  contained,  before  the  great  fire,  12,000  inhabitants.  The  whole 
population  may  amount  to  75,  or  80,000,  chiefly  catholics. 


NOVA  SCOTIA. 

Is  a narrow  peninsula  300  miles  long,  from  southwest  to  northeast. 
Bounded  N.  W.  by  New  Brunswick,  W.  by  the  bay  of  Fundy,  and  N. 
by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  in  other  points  by  the  Atlantic  Ocean. 
It  was  settled  by  a colony  of  300  English,  in  1749.  In  its  early  periods 
the  colony  suffered  much  from  the  French  and  Indians. 

Climate.  Though  severe,  the  winter  never  closes  the  harbors  with 
ice.  Like  the  adjoining  countries,  it  is  subject  to  gloomy  and  un- 
wholesome fogs,-  but  has  a short  summer  as  warm,  as  that  of  the  north  of 
Europe.  The  country,  though  generally  rugged  and  mountainous,  has 
recently  made  no  inconsiderable  progress  in  agriculture.  Vast  marshes 
have  been  drained.  Wheat,  rye,  hemp,  flax,  and  especially  the  finest  pota- 
toes are  raised.  The  gooseberry  and  raspberry  grow  in  great  perfection. 

Trees.  Oaks  attain  a considerable  size ; but  the  chief  timber  trees 
are  pine  and  fir.  The  birch  and  the  larch  also  flourish.  The  chief  ex- 
ports are  fish,  timber,  potatoes,  and  plaster  of  Paris.  Game,  wild  fowl, 
and  the  finest  fish  abound. 

Chief  Toivns.  Halifax  has  one  of  the  best  kind  of  harbors.  It  is 
strongly  fortified,  and  contains  from  15  to  29,000  inhabitants.  It  is  the 
residence  of  the  Governor  General  of  all  the  British  American  provinces, 
the  chief  naval  station,  the  seat  of  a court  of  admiralty,  where  a number 
of  ships  of  the  line  and  armed  vessels  are  always  lying,  either  stationed 
here  or  for  repairs.  A considerable  number  of  troops  are  also  in  garrison, 
who,  with  the  naval  officers,  give  it  the  air  of  a military  place.  It  is  sit- 
uated to  be  in  some  measure  the  key  to  the  Atlantic  shore,  and  in  our 
conflicts  with  the  English,  has  been  a place  of  great  annoyance  to  our 
ships  and  seamen.  Annapolis,  on  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  opposite  Halifax? 
has  also  a fine  harbor.  Shelburne,  on  the  south  side  of  Port  Rose  has  9 
or  10,000  inhabitants. 

Vcl.  II. 


16 


122 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


CAPE  BRETON. 

Is  separated  from  Nova  Scotia  by  the  Strait  of  Canso.  It  has  a severe 
and  tempestuous  climate,  subject,  like  the  other  countries  in  these  seas, 
to  fogs.  The  soil  is  unfruitful,  though  oaks  of  very  great  size  are  found 
here.  In  the  forests  a partridge  of  surpassing  beauty  is  seen.  Cultiva- 
tion would  succeed,  and  the  island  abounds  in  mineral  coal  near  the  sur- 
face. 

Louisburgli  is  on  the  south-east  coast  of  this  island,  and  was  once  a 
place  of  great  importance.  The  taking  this  town  from  the  French  chiefly 
by  New  England  troops,  under  Sir  William  Popperell,  forms  no  unimpor- 
tant passage  in  the  annals  of  our  history.  It  is  now  unfortified,  and 
much  diminished  in  importance. 


PRINCE  EDWARD’S  ISLAND. 

Is  near  the  northern  shore  of  Nova  Scotia,  and  100  miles  in  extent. 
Charlottetown  is  a considerable  village. 


ANTICOSTI. 

Ninety  by  twenty  miles,  is  covered  with  rocks,  and  has  no  harbor. 


NEW  BRUNSWICK. 

Is  bounded  N.  by  Lower  Canada,  E<  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  S. 
E.  and  S.  by  Nova  Scotia  and  the  Bay  of  Fundy,  and  W.  by  Maine. 

St.  Johns  is  a large  and  deep  river,  abounding  with  fish,  sea  wolves, 
and  sturgeon.  Its  banks  are  verdant,  lined  with  lofty  trees  and  fertilized 
with  annual  inundations.  It  affords  an  easy  communication  to  the  inhab- 
itants with  Quebec.  The  exports,  timber,  fish,  and  furs,  occupy  101 
ships  The  coribou,  moose,  catamount,  bear,  and  other  Canadian  ani- 
mals are  seen  here. 

Population.  Towns.  The  natives  are  almost  extinct.  The  white 
inhabitants  amount  to  150,000.  Frederickton,  on  the  river  St.  Johns, 
is  the  chief  town.  St.  Johns,  or  St.  Ann,  also  on  St.  Johns,  contains  8,000 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


123 


inhabitants.  The  country  was  originally  settled  by  German  troops  in  the 
service  of  Great  Britain,  and  hence  it  was  called  New  Brunswick.  The 
coast  is  indented  with  a great  number  of  deep  and  important  bays. 


GASPEE. 

Is  a high  and  mountainous  country,  lying  between  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence and  Cbaleur  Bay.  Its  native  inhabitants  differed  much  from  the 
other  Indians,  and  had  some  traditions  of  Christianity  among  them. — - 
They  must  have  received  them  from  the  apostles  of  Greenland,  in  1121. 


LOWER  CANADA. 

Is  divided  by  the  great  river  St.  Lawrence,  and  is  bounded  N.  by  New 
Britain,  E.  by  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  S.  E.  and  S.  by  New  Brunswick, 
Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  and  New  York,  S.  W.  and  W.  by  Upper 
Canada. 

Divisions . Are  counties,  townships,  seigniories,  and  parishes. 

Divers . The  St.  Lawrence  is  the  second  river  in  North  America.  In 
point  of  width  and  depth,  below  Ontario  it  exceeds  the  Mississippi.  It 
begins  to  collect  its  waters  in  the  unknown  deserts  of  the  North-West, 
and  moves  on,  accumulating  water  through  all  the  great  chain  of  Cana- 
dian lakes.  Where  it  issues  from  Lake  Erie  it  is  called  Niagara.  It 
rushes  down  the  sublime  precipice  of  Niagara  falls,  and  is  lost  in  Lake 
Ontario.  That  lake  disembogues  through  the  romantic  channels  of  the 
thousand  islands,  and  is  thence  called  St.  Lawrence.  From  this  point 
the  scenery  along  the  river  is  exceedingly  romantic  and  picturesque. 
Numerous  villages  show,  as  the  points  are  doubled.  The  houses  seem 
placed  on  the  waters,  and  the  tin  covered  steeples  glitter  through  the  treesa 
The  scenery  varies  at  every  advancing  league.  It  is  from  two  miles  to  a 
league  in  breadth,  before  it  reaches  Montreal.  Below  Quebec  it  is  of 
such  immense  width,  that  its  banks  are  hardly  discernible  from  one  shore 
to  the  other. 

Ottawa  is  the  next  considerable  river.  It  is  a broad,  deep,  and  beau- 
tiful stream,  passing  over  many  rorpantic  cascades,  before  it  mingles  its 
waters  with  the  St.  Lawrence  near  Montreal.  The  Sorel  is  the  outlet  of 
Lake  Champlain.  The  St.  Francis  empties  through  the  south  bank  of 
the  St.  Lawrence  between  Montreal  and  Quebec.  The  Chandiere  also 
empties  into  the  south  side  of  the  river,  near  Quebec. 


124 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


Montmorency  Cascade.  This  stream  twice  forces  itself  a passage 
between  the  rocks,  not  far  from  the  St.  Lawrence.  Its  rapidity  is  con- 
stantly accumulating  in  power,  as  it  gradually  contracts  to  the  breadth  of 
100  feet,  when  at  length  it  falls,  almost  perpendicularly,  in  white  clouds 
of  rolling  foam,  from  its  rock,  down  a descent  246  feet.  The  spray  is  so 
divided,  as  to  assume  the  appearance  of  snow,  or  hoar  frost,  before  it. 
settles  into  the  abyss  below. 

Soil  and  Climate.  Though  a high,  this  is  not  a hilly  country.  The 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold  are  excessive.  The  range  of  the  thermometer 
of  Fahr.  is  from  102°  above  Zero,  to  36°  below.  Frost  commences  early 
in  October.  Snow  storms  begin  with  the  next  month ; and  the  snow  con- 
tinues to  accumulate  till  spring.  The  faces  of  the  persons  walking  in 
the  streets  of  Quebec  frequently  freeze  from  the  driving  sleet  and  snow. 
Europeans  cannot  long  endure  the  open  air  at  this  season.  Boisterous 
winds  heap  the  snow  into  moderate  sized  hills.  By  mid-winter  the  weather 
generally  settles  into  a severe  still  cold,  with  a clear  blue  sky.  The  sur- 
face of  the  wide  and  rapid  St.  Lawrence  becomes  a mass  of  floating  ice. 
The  lesser  rivers  are  completely  frozen  over;  and  thus  furnished  with 
glassy  bridges,  the  sleighs  and  sledges  flit  over  the  icy  surface  in  every 
direction . The  breaking  up  of  the  ice  is  accompanied  with  noise  as  loud 
as  artillery,  and  the  sweeping  masses  of  ice  carry  away  roots,  trees  and 
soil  with  them,  as  they  dash  against  the  shore . A stranger  to  this  climate 
is  surprised  to  see  the  earth  covered  with  snow  one  day,  and  in  a few 
subsequent  days  to  note  the  verdure  of  high  spring.  Here  the  empire  of 
summer  and  winter  is  confounded. 

Agriculture.  The  extensive  chain  of  farms  along  the  St.  Lawrence, 
narrow  in  front,  and  from  half  a mile  to  a mile  in  width,  has  the  appear- 
ance of  one  immense  town.  Cornfields,  pastures,  clusters  of  trees, 
snow-white  cottages,  and  ornamented  churches  show  through  the  rich 
foliage  on  the  banks.  The  view  thence  rises  to  lofty  mountains,  and  is 
lengthened  out  to  interminable  forests.  Wheat,  pulse,  grain,  hay  and 
even  tobacco  are  cultivated  to  a considerable  extent.  The  soil  improves 
progressively,  as  we  ascend  the  St.  Lawrence  to  Upper  Canada,  which 
may  be  termed  a fertile  country.  But  agriculture  is  little  understood. 
The  inhabitants  use  little  manure,  and  plough  shallow.  Of  course  their 
grain  is  diminutive,  and  the  soil  soon  exhausted.  They  do  not  give  them- 
selves much  trouble  about  gardens,  orchards  or  fruit.  Strawberries  and 
raspberries  are  produced  in  perfection  and  abundance.  Melons  grow  and 
ripen  well;  but  apples,  pears  and  peaches  are  not  common  below  Mon- 
treal. Many  of  the  plants  resemble  those  of  the  Arctic  regions.  Wild 
rice,  zizania  aquatica , grows  in  the  still  waters.  Forests  cover  the  coun- 
try, but  the  trees  are  dwarfish,  compared  with  those  of  the  United  States. 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


125 


The  terebinthines  and  evergreens  and  firs  are  large,  numerous  and  varied. 
The  sugar  maple  and  the  birch  are  common.  The  naval  timber  is  inferior. 
The  beautiful  mountain  ash  is  abundant. 

Animals . The  elk,  fallow  deer,  bear,  fox,  martin,  catamount,  ferret, 
weasel,  hare,  grey  and  red  squirrel  are  found  here.  The  northern  regions 
furnish  plenty  of  buffaloes,  moose  and  wolves.  Otters,  beavers,  and 
muskrats  are  taken  for  their  furs  in  the  lakes  and  marshes.  Few  rivers 
can  be  compared  with  the  St.  Lawrence,  for  the  number,  variety  and  ex- 
cellence of  its  fish.  The  rattlesnake,  and  some  other  noxious  reptiles 
are,  also,  seen  on  its  banks.  The  wild  pigeon,  grouse  ptarmigan,  pheas- 
ant, or  drumming  partridge,  and  quail  are  seen  here.  The  humming 
bird  of  this  country  is  the  smallest  of  the  species,  that  is  known. 

Metals.  Are  not  found  in  abundance;  though  iron,  copper  and  lead 
might  be  smelted  from  ores  discovered  in  this  region. 

Chief  Towns.  Quebec  is  on  the  north  bank  of  the  St.  Lawrence, 
where  the  river  St.  Charles  unites  with  it,  350  miles  from  the  sea.  The 
town  is  naturally  divided  into  the  upper  and  lower  town.  The  upper 
town  is  built  on  a high,  precipitous  rock,  345  feet  above  the  lower,  and 
is,  from  its  position,  and  natural  fortifications,  the  strongest  military  for- 
tress in  America,  and  considered  almost  impregnable.  The  lower  town 
is  situated  at  the  base  of  this  rock,  far  below  the  upper,  which  seems  an 
eagle’s  perch,  to  the  inhabitants  below.  The  population  in  1800  amount- 
ed to  12,000.  A traveller  approaching  the  city  is  dazzled  with  the 
glittering  of  the  tinned  spires,  and  is  apt  to  form  too  high  an  opinion  of 
the  extent  and  beauty  of  the  city.  The  lower  town  is  dirty  and  unpleas- 
ant. The  French  parish  church,  the  college,  the  chapel  of  the  seminary, 
the  barracks,  the  convents,  the  hotel  dieu,  the  castle  of  St.  Louis,  the  es- 
planade battery,  the  citadel,  the  subterranean  passage,  and  Brock’s  batte- 
ry are  the  principal  buildings  and  works  of  art  in  the  city,  that  arrest  the 
attention  of  a stranger.  The  plains  of  Abraham  show  a battle  ground  of 
intense  interest,  where,  in  one  of  the  fiercest  battles  ever  fought,  Wolfe 
fell  after  a victory,  which  secured  the  possession  of  all  the  northern  divi- 
sion of  North  America  to  the  English.  The  brave  Montcalm  also  fell  in 
the  battle,  and  was  buried  in  the  chasm  made  by  the  bursting  of  a bomb, 
that  killed  him.  In  this  city,  in  a struggle  still  more  interesting  to  us,  fell 
the  brave  and  lamented  Montgomery.  Various  points  of  splendid  scenery 
and  spots  fertile  in  moral  interest  are  visited  in  this  interesting  city  and 
vicinity  by  the  numerous  tourists  and  strangers  from  every  part  of  the 
United  States,  who  now  make  this  city  a point  in  the  excursion  from 
Niagara  falls  to  Boston.  It  has  numerous  and  the  most  easy  communica- 
tions with  the  country  above  and  below  by  the  beautiful  steam  boats, 
that  ply  on  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  distance  between  it  and  Montreal, 


120 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


ISO  miles  has  been  passed  in  a steam  boat  in  20  hours  and  40  minutes 
In  1S25  it  contained  22,090  inhabitants. 

Montreal  is  built  upon  an  island  of  the  same  name  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence, 32  miles  long,  and  at  its  centre  2 miles  in  width,  at  a point  in  the 
river  just  below  the  junction  of  the  Ottawa.  The  river  is  here  2 miles 
wide,  and  capable  of  being  ascended  by  vessels  of  any  burden,  although  500 
miles  from  the  sea.  It  is  ISO  miies  south  west  of  Quebec,  and  300  north 
of  New  York.  The  town  has  a beautiful  position,  and  shows  to  great 
advantage.  The  mountain,  from  which  it  has  its  name,  rises  on  the  left 
of  the  city,  and  seems  placed  there,  like  a rampart  to  defend  it  from  the 
blasts  of  winter.  A thick  forest  covers  the  greater  part  of  it ; though  a 
few  neatly  built  houses  show  their  roofs  from  the  midst  of  the  mountain 
groves.  The  new  cathedral  is,  probably,  the  largest  church  in  America. 
Its  front  is  255  feet,  and  its  width  134.  There  are  five  public  entran- 
ces, and  the  interior  will  conveniently  contain  10,000  persons.  There 
are  seven  altars,  and  the  eastern  window  over  the  high  altar  is  64 
by  32  feet.  The  circuit  of  this  vast  edifice  is  1,125  feet.  It  is  built  of 
hewrn  stone  from  the  mountain.  The  college  is  the  next  most  conspicu- 
ous building  extending  in  front  with  the  wings  220  feet.  It  contains  on 
an  average  300  students.  This  is  a catholic  institution.  There  are  18 
or  20  public  buildings.  The  French  style  of  building,  the  number  of 
lofty  spires  and  tow7ers  and  the  glittering  tin  covering  of  the  roofs  give  the' 
city  a majestic  and  imposing  appearance  at  a distance.  The  popula- 
tion, by  a census  in  1825,  was  24,000,  and  is  now  supposed  to  amount 
to  30,000,  having  advanced  much  more  rapidly  than  Quebec. 

The  chief  article  of  its  commerce  is  furs.  It  is  the  emporium  of  the 
north  west  Company ; and  of  the  trade  between  Canada  and  the  United 
States.  This  company  employs  2,000  Yactors,  coureurs  du  bois , and 
hunters  ; as  enterprising  people  of  the  kind,  as  are  to  be  found  in  the 
world.  The  clerks  are  chiefly  adventurous  Scotchmen,  forced  by  penury 
to  encounter  the  cold  and  dangers  of  the  dreary  and  interminable  deserts 
of  the  North  West. 

Three  Rivers.  Is  situated  between  Quebec  and  Montreal,  wuth  a pop- 
ulation of  2,000.  Sorel  was  built  by  American  loyalists,  in  1787,  and 
contains  200  souls.  There  are  many  other  considerable  villages. 

Commerce.  The  exports  of  commerce  are  furs,  lumber,  potash,  flour, 
pork,  and  timber. 

Population.  In  1814,  was  335,000  chiefly  French  and  Roman  Cath- 
olics. The  number  is  now,  probably  increased  to  600,006.  The 
French  colonists  are  said  to  have  originally  emigrated  from  Normandy. 
They  are  a people  known  not  only  here,  but  in  the  north  west  and  south 
west  country,  from  the  pacific  to  the  mouth  of  the  Mississippi,  by  very 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


127 


peculiar  traits.  They  are  gay,  satisfied  with  a little,  attached  to  their  re- 
ligion and  native  country.  With  moderate  inducements,  they  will  under- 
take long  journies,  and  encounter  inconceivable  dangers  and  hardships. 
In  the  management  of  periogues  and  canoes,  on  the  lakes  and  long 
streams,  they  have  no  rivals.  They  are  remarkably  ingenious  in  finishing 
their  own  domestic  implements.  The  countenance  of  the  Canadian  is 
long  and  thin — his  complexion  sun-burnt  and  swarthy,  and  inclining  to- 
wards that  of  the  Indian;  his  eyes  black  and  lively,  with  lank  and  meagre 
cheeks,  a sharp  and  prominent  chin,  and  such  easy  and  polite  manners, 
as  though  he  had  always  lived  in  the  great  world,  rather  than  amidst  un- 
inhabited forests.  Their  intercourse  with  each  other  is  to  the  last  degree 
affectionate;  and  a French  Canadian  village  constitutes  one  family. 
They  are  sober,  marry  young,  and  have  numerous  families.  Their 
cheerfulness,  whether  in  prosperity  or  adversity,  is  inexhaustible,  and 
more  valuable  to  them,  than  all  the  boasted  attainments  of  philosophy. 

Amusements.  Society.  In  winter,  clothed  in  tanned  skins,  with  a 
woollen  capote,  ihe  head  piece  of  which  serves  instead  of  a hat,  their  dress 
is  that  of  the  Russians.  Their  social  intercourse  is  that  of  the  age  of 
Louis  XIVth.  As  soon  as  the  penance  of  their  long  lent  is  ended,  their 
feasting  begins.  The  friends  and  relatives  assemble.  Turkies,  pies, 
joints  of  beef,  pork  and  mutton,  tureens  of  soup,  thickened  milk,  fish, 
fowl  and  all  the  fruits,  that  can  be  procured,  decorate  the  board.  Coffee 
is  introduced. — The  violin  is  heard,  and  these  gay  and  simple  people 
are  the  most  inveterate  dancers  in  the  world.  Their  dress,  especially  that 
of  the  ladies,  is  gaudy:  and  the  morning  shines  in  upon  their  unfinished 
hilarity.  These  people  are  called  £ habitans,’  and  they  are  generally  in 
comfortable  competence,  though  extremely  illiterate.  The  £ Quebec 
Mercury,’  lately,  gravely  proposed  the  establishment  of  a seminary  for  the 
instruction  of  those  members  of  their  parliament,  that  could  neither  read 
nor  write. 

Government.  All  the  advantages  of  the  English  constitution  and  laws 
have  been  progressively  extended  to  them.  Two  houses  of  parliament, 
a legislative  council  and  a house  of  assembly  are  appointed  for  legislation, 
which  requires  the  sanction  of  the  king.  Upper  and  lower  Canada  unite 
in  forming  the  assembly.  Voters  must  be  possessed  of  a domicile, 
five  pounds  income,  and  must  have  paid  not  less  than  ten  pounds  an- 
nual rent.  The  assemblies  are  quadriennial,  and  dissolved  without 
day,  at  the  will  of  the  governor.  The  executive  is  a governor,  lieutenant 
governor  and  17  members  of  the  council. 

Revenue.  Expenses.  The  civil  list,  £45,000,  maintenance  of  clergy, 
presents  to  the  Indians,  and  military  defence  in  all  £500,000.  The  ex- 


128 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS. 


ports  are  increasing.  In  1810,  661  vessels  were  employed;  burthen 
143,893  tons,  exports  £1,500,000  imports  £1,050,000. 

Military  importance.  Canada  is  the  chief  link  in  the  chain  of  British 
possessions  in  North  America,  and  the  only  formidable  rival  of  the  United 
States  in  these  regions. 

Savages  chiefly  belong  to  the  province  of  Upper  Canada. 

History.  Too  copious  an  article  to  be  here  discussed.  Quebec  was 
among  the  first  settled  places  in  North  America.  In  1759  it  passed  from 
the  dominion  of  the  French  to  that  of  the  English.  In  our  revolutionary 
war  an  attempt  was  made,  unsuccessfully,  to  conquer  it  from  the  British. 
In  the  late  war  the  frontiers  of  Upper  and  Lower  Canada  were  the  chief 
scene  of  its  operations. 


UPPER  CANADA, 

Is  peninsulated  by  the  Ottawa,  lakes  Ontario,  Erie,  and  Huron;  and 
separated  from  the  United  States  by  the  St.  Lawrence  on  the  east,  south, 
and  west.  Bounded  N.  E.  by  Lower  Canada  and  Ottawa  River,  and 
N.  W.  by  New  Britain. 

Divisions.  Districts,  counties,  and  townships. 

Population  is  advancing  with  great  rapidity.  It  has  hitherto  been  con 
fined  to  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  shores  of  the  lakes,  but  is  now  diffused 
over  all  the  interior.  New  towns  are  extending  in  the  fertile  forest, 
some  of  which,  in  rapidity  of  increase,  vie  with  those  of  the  U.  States. 
Great  extents  of  fertile  land  are  yet  unoccupied,  and  the  parent  country 
is  furnishing  every  facility  for  transporting  to  these  forests  her  surplus 
population;  great  numbers  of  whom,  however,  finally  make  their  way  to 
the  United  States;  while  we  in  turn  furnish  many  emigrants  particularly 
our  free  blacks  of  color,  for  this  country.  At  present  it  is  probable  the 
number  of  inhabitants  equals  that  in  the  lower  province. 

Upper  and  Lower  Canada  taken  together  by  a recent  census,  are  found 
to  contain  a million  inhabitants,  2 Catholic  establishments,  200  curates 
and  missionaries,  and  1 Episcopal  Bishop  of  the  Church  of  England, 
with  250  inferior  clergy.  The  Scotch  Kirk  in  Canada  contains  10  min- 
isters. Not  more  than  one  of  five  of  the  whole  population  can  read. 
Immense  numbers  of  people  have  recently  emigrated  to  this  country; 
and  great  districts  of  Upper  Canada  are  peopling  with  the  same  rapidity 
as  the  Western  Country  of  the  United  States.  The  forests  in  all  direc- 
tions are  levelling,  and  large  and  compact  villages  grow  up  in  two  or  three 
years  from  the  building  the  first  habitation. 


BRITISH  POSSESSIONS 


129 


Rivers . Besides  the  numerous  rivers  that  fall  into  the  lakes,  the  great 
rivers  St.  Lawrence  and  Ottawa  roll  along  the  two  frontiers  of  this 
country.  By  these  and  the  lakes  it  has  as  many  advantages  of  inland 
water  intercommunication,  as  any  other  country  in  the  world,  with  the 
exception  of  the  United  States. 

Soil  and  Productions.  The  soil  in  this  great  peninsula  is  generally  a 
vegetable  mould,  quickened  by  mixtures  of  pulverized  lime.  Many  of 
the  water  courses  have  rich  alluvial  banks.  The  country  is  fertile  in 
wheat,  grain,  fruits,  and  generally  the  productions  of  the  north  part  of 
the  United  States.  Excellent  peaches,  pears,  apples,  and  plums  are 
raised,  and  great  quantities  of  maple  sugar  are  made  in  some  districts. 

Climate.  The  southern  parts  are  temperate,  compared  with  the  other 
British  provinces.  The  northern  shore  of  Lake  Erie  compares  more 
nearly  with  Philadelphia  than  Quebec. 

Animals.  The  same  as  described  in  the  other  British  provinces,  with 
those  of  the  northern  parts  of  the  United  States.  The  fish  are  of  the 
greatest  excellence  and  abundance,  and  the  resort  of  sea  fowls  to  the 
lakes  during  the  summer  is  immense. 

Totvns.  York,  on  the  north  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  is  the  metropolis. 
It  has  a fine  harbor,  is  a neat  and  growing  town,  and  has  between  3 and 
4,000  inhabitants.  Kingston,  situated  at  the  outlet  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
from  Lake  Ontario,  is  a handsome  and  thriving  town  with  2,501  inhabit- 
ants. Niagara  is  a considerable  village  at  the  entrance  of  Niagara  into 
Lake  Ontario,  and  contains  108  houses.  Queenstown  is  7 miles  above  on 
the  Niagara.  It  contains  a beautiful  monument  to  General  Brock,  who 
fell  here  in  the  late  war.  Chippeway,  a league  above  Niagara  falls,  is 
famous  in  the  history  of  the  late  war.  Fort  Erie  is  at  the  outlet  of  Ni- 
agara from  Lake  Erie.  Malden  and  Sandwich  are  on  the  strait,  connect- 
ing Lake  St.  Clair  with  Lake  Erie.  The  catalogue  might  easily  be  in- 
creased by  giving  the  names  of  fifty  new  and  considerable  villages. 

Lakes.  Exclusive  of  the  great  lakes  which  have  been  already  noticed, 
there  is  a Canadian  chain  of  smaller  lakes,  stretching  north  of  them. 
Simcoe,  Shallow,  Rice,  and  Nepissing  are  the  chief.  Like  the  great 
lakes,  they  are  the  summer  resort  of  immense  numbers  of  water  fowls, 
that  come  to  them  to  feed  upon  the  wild  rice,  with  which  they  abound. 
Quinti  Bay,  an  arm  of  Lake  Ontario,  70  miles  long,  affords  fine  naviga- 
tion. The  foreign  trade  of  this  vast  country  has  hitherto  passed  almost 
entirely  by  Montreal  and  Quebec.  At  least  400  vessels,  including  steam 
boats,  already  navigate  the  northern  lakes;  and  although  the  navigation 
and  commerce  are  divided  between  two  countries,  the  necessities  of  busi- 
ness, and  the  sense  of  the  utility  of  mutual  accommodation  to  the  com* 
Vol.  II.  17 


ISO 


BRITISH  POSSESSION'S. 


mon  interest  has  brought  about  an  understanding  of  a good  degree  of 
amity  and  concurrence  between  the  Canadians  and  Americans. 

Canals.  The  Welland  Canal  commences  near  the  mouth  of  Grand 
River  on  Lake  Erie,  40  miles  N.  W.  of  Buffalo.  It  connects  Lake  Erie 
and  Lake  Ontario  by  canal  navigation,  overcoming  all  the  descent  of 
Niagara  Falls,  and  Niagara  River  between  the  two  lakes.  It  admits  ves- 
sels of  125  tons,  being  wider  and  deeper  than  any  other  canal  in  the 
country,  except  the  Delaware  and  Chesapeake.  The  elevation  overcome 
by  the  locks  is  320  feet.  The  canal  required  prodigious  excavations,  in 
some  places  through  solid  stone.  The  ‘Ravine  Locks’  are  said  to  be  the 
most  striking  canal  spectacle  to  be  seen  in  America.  It  is  38  miles  in 
length,  and  through  it  large  schooners  have  already  ascended  from  the 
New  York  shore  of  Ontario  to  the  Ohio  shore  of  Erie.  The  Rideau 
Canal  is  intended  to  effect  a navigable  communication  between  Lake 
Ontario  and  the  river  Ottawa.  The  next  object  is  to  secure  the  transport 
of  military  stores  by  an  interior  route  less  exposed  to  American 
assault,  than  that  along  the  lakes.  A line  of  frontier  fortresses  is  to  be 
built  in  aid  of  this  object;  the  whole  estimated  to  cost  between  five  and 
six  millions  of  dollars.  This,  like  the  forementioned  canal,  is  a prodig- 
ious undertaking,  carried  over  hills  and  rivers  and  through  morasses. 
These  vast  works  have  wrought  the  same  results  as  in  the  United  States. 
Towns  have  grown  up  along  the  line  of  their  course,  even  before  they 
were  completed,  as  by  enchantment.  Among  the  many  examples  that 
might  be  cited,  Bytown,  at  the  junction  of  the  canal  with  Ottawa,  was  a 
solid  wilderness  in  1826.  In  1827  it  contained  a market,  a school  house, 
4 churches  and  2000  inhabitants.  Magnificent  roads  and  bridges  are  con- 
structed; and  these  triumphs  over  nature  in  her  wildest  regions  of 
Canadian  forests,  cascades,  vast  rivers,  and  precipices,  have  brought  to 
view  rivers  and  lakes,  the  existence  of  which,  previous  to  them,  were 
hardly  known.  The  Rideau  Canal  is  a work  of  greater  expense  than 
the  Welland  Canal,  and  about  the  same  length. 


MEXICAN  EEFUBIil€ 


Passing  from  the  British  possessions  in  North  America,  over  the  wide 
extent  of  our  own  republic,  the  first  country  we  meet,  south  and  west  of 
the  United  States,  is  the  Mexican  Republic,  a country  of  deep  interest  to 
us  in  every  point  of  view.  It  is  one  of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful 
countries  on  the  globe.  The  inhabitants  had  long  been  servile  colonists 
of  a great  but  declining  nation,  whose  boast  it  used  to  be,  that  the  sun 
never  went  down  upon  her  dominions.  The  vast  regions  of  Mexico  and 
New  Mexico  comprehend  all  the  countries  inhabited  by  descendants  of  the 
Spaniards,  and  by  their  conquered  and  converted  Indian  subjects,  and  the 
independent  aboriginal  Indians,  from  the  territories  of  the  United  States 
E.  and  N.  to  the  Pacific  Ocean;  and  across  the  Isthmus  of  Darien  to  the 
Atlantic;  and  thence  down  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  to  the  territory  of  the 
United  States  again.  The  various  states  of  this  immense  country  have 
passed  through  a succession  of  revolutionary  contests  w7ith  the  parent 
country.  The  Spanish  authority  has  been  totally  annihilated ; and  although 
their  condition  is  far  from  seeming  to  be  a settled  one,  and  they  continue 
to  be  afflicted  with  intestine  commotions,  having  designated  their  govern- 
ment a republic,  they  have  a claim  to  be  geographically  described  as  such. 
Physical  Aspect,  This  great  country  comprises  all  the  varieties  of 
soil,  climate  and  temperature  on  our  globe.  Immense  level  tropical 
plains,  covered  with  a gigantic  growth  of  evergreen  vegetation  from  the 
shrub  to  the  loftiest  trees  in  the  world;  table  elevations  on  tropical  moun- 
tains, where  perpetual  spring  prevails,  and  where  productions  of  the 
tropics  grow  side  by  side  with  those  of  the  temperate  climates;  mountain 
summits  covered  with  unrnelting  snows,  or  throwing  up  volcanic  fires, 
immense  prairies  clothed  with  ever  verdant  grass,  and  feeding  innumera- 
ble herds  of  buffaloes  and  wild  cattle  and  horses;  vast  tracts  of  sandy 
desert,  scorched  with  a cloudless  sun  and  moistened  with  no  rain;  other 
regions,  where  periodical  rains  deluge  the  country  for  weeks  in  succes- 
sion, such  are  the  contrasts  of  this  strange  country.  African  heats  are 


132 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


contiguous  to  Arctic  snows;  the  wheats  and  fruits  of  the  United  States 
to  the  banana,  cocoa  and  pine  apple  of  the  tropics.  In  one  district  no- 
thing is  raised  except  by  artificial  irrigation.  In  another  the  rank  vege- 
tation is  thrown  up  by  the  richest  soil,  and  a reeking  humidity.  Ancient 
and  deep  forests  untouched  by  the  axe,  groves  of  mahogany  and  logwood  the 
palm  and  guava  rear  their  columns  on  the  plains.  In  another,  mountains 
whose  summits  were  never  pressed  by  mortal  foot,  pour  from  their  cone- 
shaped  funnels  into  the  elevated  and  frosty  atmosphere  the  flame  and  lava 
of  never  quenched  internal  fires.  It  is  a scene  of  continual  wonders^ 
strong  contrasts,  and  sublime  contemplations,  whether  we  view  the  gran 
deur  of  the  vegetable  kingdom,  or  the  diversity  of  the  animal  races,  par- 
ticularly the  splendor  and  variety  of  the  birds,  the  beauty  and  sublimity 
of  the  scenery,  or  the  grandeur  of  the  almost  numberless  mountain  peaks* 
The  Federal  Government  is  composed  of  a great  number  of  states, 
which  send  representatives  to  the  general  congress  at  Mexico. 


Northern  Provinces. 

Sq.  Miles. 

Pop,  in  1803. 

Chief  Towns. 

Old  California, 

55,880 

9,000 

Loreto. 

New  California, 

16,278 

15,600 

Monterey. 

Sonora, 

146,635 

121,400 

Arispe. 

Durango, 

129,247 

159,700 

Durango. 

New  Mexico, 

43,731 

40,200 

Santa  Fe. 

San  Luis  Potosi, 

263,109 

334,900 

St.  Luis  Potosi. 

654,880 

680,800 

Southern  Provinces . 

Sq.  Miles . 

Pop. in  1803. 

Chief  Towns. 

Guadalaxara, 

73,638 

630,500 

Guadalaxara. 

Zacatecas, 

18,039 

153,300 

Zacatecas. 

Guanaxuato, 

6,878 

517,300 

Guanaxuato. 

Valladolid, 

26,396 

376,400 

Valladolid. 

Mexico, 

45,401 

1,511,800 

Mexico. 

Puebla, 

20,651 

813,300 

Puebla. 

Vera  Cruz, 

31,720 

156,000 

Vera  Cruz. 

Oaxaca, 

34,664 

534,800 

Oaxaca. 

Yucatan  or  Merida, 

45,784 

465,800 

Merida. 

302,561 

5,159,200 

Northern  provinces. 

654,880 

680,800 

Grand  Total, 

957,441 

5,840,000 

The  present  population  is  rated  at  8,000,000 

MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


133 


Divisions . Two  thirds  of  the  Mexican  republic  are  under  the  temperate, 
and  the  remaining  third  under  the  torrid  zone.  The  first  division  com- 
prehends the  states  of  St.  Leon,  and  St.  Andero,  Durango,  Sonora.  Co- 
ahuilci,  Texas  and  New  Mexico.  But  the  remaining  tropical  regions, 
from  a variety  of  causes,  enjoy  for  the  greater  part,  a cool,  rather  than  a 
torrid  temperature.  The  interior  of  New  Mexico  and  New  Biscay  forms 
an  immense  elevated  plateau,  from  6,500  to  8,200  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Consequently,  these  regions  extend  from  the  delightful  tempe- 
rature of  the  city  of  Mexico  to  the  regions  of  eternal  ice  and  snow.  This 
plateau  may  be  classed  into  four  divisions  The  lower  division  is  adapt- 
ed to  the  sugar  cane,  the  banana,  pine  apple,  and  agave.  The  second  is 
appropriate  to  cotton  and  plants,  that  require  the  same  temperature. 
The  third  produces  the  wheat  and  apples  of  the  United  States.  The 
last  is  only  adapted  to  alpine  cultivation. 

Mountains.  They  are  called  in  this  country  Cordillera.  They  are  so 
numerous,  and  of  such  an  infinite  diversity  of  forms,  that  this  summary 
cannot  notice  all  the  ranges.  No  doubt,  they  might  be  traced  to  families, 
or  classes  of  mountains,  belonging  to  a succession  of  ranges,  with  a 
certain  degree  of  parallelism.  The  most  noted  chains  are  the  Sierra  of 
the  Andes,  the  Sierra  Madre,  and  the  Sierra  Membre.  In  Guatimala  these 
chains  bristle  with  such  frequent  volcanic  summits  that  volcanic  mountains 
in  Mexico  are  no  curiosity.  Popoca-Tepetl,  or  the  smoking  mountain  is 
nearly  18,000  feet  high.  Iztacci-Huatl  or  the  white  woman,  is  16,000  feet 
high,  Citlal-Tepetl,  or  starry  mountain,  is  17,  697  feet  high.  Perote  is 
13,633  feet  high.  Columns  of  smoke,  and  frequent  explosions  ascend- 
ing from  them,  however  noted  and  sublime  phenomena  in  other  countries, 
are  here  too  common  to  be  remarked,  as  occurrences,  that  excite  wonder, 
terror  and  remembrance.  Some  of  these  mountains  are  granitic,  and 
some  porphyritic  in  structure.  The  mountain,  called  by  the  natives  Cit- 
lal-Tepetl, or  starry  mountain,  is  so  called  on  account  cf  the  luminous 
exhalations  that  rise  from  its  crater  and  play  round  its  summit,  which  is 
covered  with  eternal  snow.  The  sides  of  these  colossal  furnaces  of  the 
internal  fires  of  nature,  are  often  crowned  with  magnificent  forests  of  ce- 
dar and  pine.  In  1759  the  plains  of  Jorulla,  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific, 
experienced  one  of  the  most  tremendous  catastrophes,  that  the  surface  of 
our  globe  has  ever  witnessed.  In  a single  night  a volcano  arose  from  the 
earth,  1494  feet  high,  with  more  than  2,000  apertures,  which  still  con- 
tinue to  throw  up  smoke.  Messrs.  Humboldt  and  Bonpland  descended 
into  the  burning  crater  of  the  largest,  288  feet  in  depth.  The  adventure 
was  most  daring  and  dangerous.  They  found  the  air  strongly  charged 
with  carbonic  acid . 


134 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


Mines.  Every  reader  knows,  that  those  of  the  precious  metals  ar« 
generally  found  among  mountains;  and  that  this  is  the  country  of  sil- 
ver and  gold.  The  annual  produce,  inordinary  years,  used  seldom  to  fall 
below  §22,000,000  of  silver.  The  gold  is  found  in  little  straw-like  frag- 
ments and  veins.  The  richest  mine,  in  its  yield  of  native  silver,  is  Barto- 
pilas  in  New  Biscay.  In  most  of  them,  the  metal  is  extracted  from  red, 
black,  muriated  and  sulphuretted  ores  of  silver,  fn  south  America,  the 
chief  mines  are  found  on  the  summits  of  the  Andes,  in  the  regions  of  per- 
petual frost  and  ice.  In  Mexico,  on  the  contrary,  the  richest,  such  as 
those  of  Guanaxuato,  Zacatecas,  Tasco,  and  Real  de  Monte  are  found 
between  5,500,  and  6.5C0  feet  high.  The  climate  is  delightful,  and  the 
vicinity  abounds  with  forests,  and  every  facility  to  work  the  mines  to 
advantage.  A catalogue  of  the  names  of  50  mines  might  easily  be 
given,  extending  from  Santa  Fe,  at  the  sources  of  the  Rio  del  Norte,  to 
the  Pacific. 

Rivers.  Nature,  as  if  satisfied  with  her  ample  bestowment  of  mineral 
and  vegetable  riches,  has  denied  to  this  beautiful  country  the  numerous 
and  useful  rivers  of  the  United  States.  Scarcely  a navigable  stream  is 
found  in  this  vast  country;  and  but  two,  that  would  be  deemed  worthy  of 
name  in  the  United  States.  These  are  the  Rio  Bravo  del  Norte,  and  Rio 
Colorado.  Innumerable  torrents  pour  down  from ‘the  mountains.  The 
smaller  streams  are  Rio  Huasaculaco  and  Alvarado  south  east  of  Vera 
Cruz;  the  Rio  de  Montezuma  in  the  valley  of  Mexico,  Rio  de  Panuco 
in  the  same  vale,  Rio  de  Zacatala,  and  the  Rio  St.  Jago,  the  largest  of 
the  whole,  formed  by  the  union  of  the  Leorma  and  Las  Taxas. 

Lakes.  The  great  lake  of  Chapala,  in  New  Gallicia,  covers  nearly 
160  square  leagues.  The  lakes  of  the  valley  of  Mexico,  and  the  lake  of 
Pazcuasco  in  the  intendency  of  Valladolid  are  among  the  most  pictur- 
esque spots  in  the  world.  Lakes  Mexitlan  and  Parras  in  New  Biscay, 
and  Nicaragua  are  large  collections  of  water. 

Circumstances  give  this  last  peculiar  interest.  This  lake  is  situated 
on  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  almost  equidistant  between  the  two  Oceans, 
Atlantic  and  Pacific;  and  is  reported  to  have  tides.  There  have  been  a 
hundred  different  projects  to  canal  this  lake  from  the  two  extremities, 
and  thus  unite  these  two  oceans  by  a canal  of  70  or  80  miles  in  extent; 
and  thus  save  a passage  round  Cape  Horn  of  more  than  10,000  miles. 
But  on  a full  survey  of  the  elevation  of  this  lake  above  the  two  seas,  the 
difficulties  of  digging  a ship  channel,  and  constructing  the  necessary 
locks  up  such  lofty  heights,  and  the  pestilential  autumnal  air  of  the  river 
St.  John,  by  which  this  lake  communicates  with  the  Atlantic,  the  Span- 
ish government  deemed  the  project  impracticable,  and  forbade  any  one  to 


HEXICA.lt  REPUBLIC. 


135 


resume  it  on  pain  of  death.  Since  the  country  has  been  revolutionized, 
the  subject  has  been  resuscitated.  The  isthmus  of  Tehuantepec  presents 
the  two  rivers  Huasacualco  and  Chimilapa,  which  empty,  the  one  into  the 
one  ocean,  and  the  other  into  the  other.  A canal  of  8 leagues,  at  furthest 
would  unite  these  two  rivers,  and  bring  the  oceans  into  communication. 
The  Andes  at  this  point  have  disappeared,  and  the  elevation  of  the  canal 
above  the  two  seas  would  be  moderate. 

Harbors.  It  will  be  seen,  that  this  republic  has  an  immense  extent  of 
sea  coast  on  both  oceans.  But  there  are  few  good  harbors.  Most  of  the 
rivers  are  obstructed  by  bars  at  their  mouth.  Violent  storms,  for  consid- 
erable portions  of  the  year,  render  the  coast  inaccessible.  The  Los  Nor - 
tes  blow  from  the  autumnal  to  the  vernal  equinox,  and  render  the  coast 
unsafe  .of  approach.  In  another  part  of  the  year  the  papagayo  and  Te- 
huantepec winds  render  the  roadsteds  dangerous.  But  these  circum- 
stances, unfavorable  to  the  navigation,  are  fortunate  to  the  republic  in 
another  point  of  view  as  affording  protection  against  hostile  fleets. 

Climate.  The  country  is  divided  into  the  tierras  Calientes , that  is  to 
say  hot  countries,  that  produce  sugar,  indigo,  cotton,  bananas,  and  pine 
apples  in  abundance.  In  low  and  marshy  positions  in  these  countries 
unacclimated  persons,  in  particular  seasons,  are  subject  to  what  is  here 
called  vomito  prieto,  black  vomit,  or  yellow  fever.  Acapulco,  Papagayo 
andPeregrino  are  places  of  this  description,  on  the  Pacific;  and  Tampico 
on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico. 

The  next  climate  under  the  tropics  is  at  an  elevation  from  4 to  5,000 
feet.  The  temperature  seldom  varies  more  than  8 or  9 degrees.  Intense 
heat  and  excessive  cold  are  equally  unknown.  The  countries  of  this  de- 
scription are  called  Tierras  templadas , temperate  countries.  The  oak  is  a 
native  tree  in  this  climate;  and  the  yellow  fever  seldom  prevails  in  Mex- 
ico, in  the  region  where  the  oak  is  a native.  This  is  the  delicious  climate 
of  Xalapa,  Tasco,  Chilpaningo,  and  of  Mexico  still  more  elevated.  The 
air  is  cool  and  salubrious,  and  the  fruits  and  productions  rich  and  pre- 
cious. But  every  earthly  good  has  its  appendant  evil.  These  regions 
lie  in  the  ordinary  height  of  the  clouds,  which  float  at  the  same  altitude  in 
the  subjacent  plains,  and  envelope  these  charming  and  elevated  abodes 
in  frequent  and  dense  fogs.  The  third  belt  is  the  Tierras  Frias,  or  cold 
countries,  higher  than  7,200  above  the  level  of  the  ocean.  Even  in  the 
city  of  Mexico,  in  the  centre  of  the  tropics,  the  mercury  has  been  seen, 
though  rarely,  to  fall  below  the  freezing  point.  The  mountains  that 
raise  their  summits  far  above  these  elevations,  to  the  height  of  12,000 
feet,  are  always  white  with  snow, 

Periodical  rains.  In  the  equinoxial  regions  of  Mexico,  and  as  far  as 
2SC  N.  only  two  seasons  are  known,' the  rainy  and  the.  dry.  The  rainy 


135 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


commences  in  June  or  July,  and  ends  in  September  or  October.  The 
rains  begin  in  the  low  countries,  and  gradually  extend  to  the  elevated 
regions,  descending  in  unremitting  torrents,  accompanied,  frequently 
with  thunder  and  lightning.  At  the  elevation  of  between  6 and  7,000 
feet  snow  and  sleet  often  fall  with  the  rain.  Beyond  28°  north,  the 
ground  at  this  elevation  is  frequently  whitened  with  snow.  But  such 
snows  are  earnestly  wished.  They  are  deemed  salubrious,  and  exceed- 
ingly beneficial  to  the  wheat  and  pasture. 

New  Mexico.  The  vast  district  of  this  country /formerly  known  by  the 
name  of  New  Mexico,  has  peculiar  claims  upon'the  interest  and  attention 
of  our  citizens,  as  bounding  for  vast  distances  upon  the  territory  of  the 
U.  States  and  sustaining  a great  and  increasing  trade  with  some  of  the 
Western  States.  Under  the  ancient  Spanish  regime,  it  was  designated 
by  the  term  Provincias  Internets.  It  has  a very  variable  and  unequal 
climate.  The  summers  are  sultry,  and  in  the  elevated  regions  the  winter 
is  unremitting  and  often  severe.  On  the  whole,  the  interior  of  all  this 
vast  country  suffers  much  from  aridity,  and  the  want  of  the  shelter  of 
trees.  Muriates  of  soda  and  lime,  and  nitrate  of  potash  and  other  Saline 
substances  encrust  the  soil  so  as  to  bid  defiance  to  cultivation.  This 
chemical  annoyance  is  extending  its  injurious  effects  in  a manner  inexpli- 
cable.  Happily,  this  incrustation  and  aridity  are  confined  to  the  most 
elevated  plains.  A great  part  of  the  vast  republic,  situated  neither  too 
high  nor  too  low,  may  be  classed  with  the  most  fertile  countries  in  the 
world.  The  lower  declivity  of  the  Cordilleras  and  the  heat  and  humidity  of 
the  coasts,  favoring  the  putrefaction  of  a prodigious  mass  of  organic  sub- 
stance, display  a grandeur  of  vegetation  inconceivable,  except  to  those, 
who  have  seen  it,  and  prove  a cause  of  fatal  diseases  to  unacclimated 
strangers.  As  a general  fact,  great  humidity,  insalubrity,  and  fertility  are 
found  together.  Yet  on  the  whole  the  greater  portion  of  this  beautiful 
country  may  be  considered,  as  among  the  healthiest  regions  in  the  world; 
the  dry  atmosphere  being  singularly  favorable  to  longevity.  Even  at 
Vera  Cruz,  while  the  black  vomit  sweeps  away  unacclimated  strangers, 
the  natives  and  persons  used  to  the  climate  enjoy  the  most  perfect  health, 
and  live  to  extreme  old  age. 

Vegetable  productions.  We  can  only  select  the  names  of  a few  from 
thousands.  In  this  conntry,  where  all  climates  run  into  each  other, 
all  classes  of  trees  and  plants  might  be  expected  to  be  found.  In  the 
low  and  maritime  regions,  admiration  is  excited  by  the  number,  the  vari- 
ety and  the  grandeur  of  the  native  forests,  and  in  the  mountainous  regions 
by  the.  infinite  diversity  of  the  plants  and  dowering  shrubs.  The  mahog- 
any, the  logwood  and  nicaragua  trees  are  among  the  cabinet  and  dye 
woods.  The  pepper  and  cocoa  trees  are  among  the  native  fruits.  The 


MEXICAN  IlEPUBLIC. 


137 


oak  is  not  found  below  6800  feet  of  elevation.  Pines  spread  from  the 
elevation  of  5700  to  12,300  feet. 

Edible  Plants.  Among  these  the  banana  deserves  the  first  place. 
Three  species  are  common.  Two  are  indigenous.  The  third  was 
brought  from  Africa.  A single  cluster  of  these  fruits  often  contains 
from  160  to  180  lbs.  of  fruit.  An  area  of  120  square  yards  will  produce 
4,000  lbs.,  while  the  same  extent  will  scarce  produce  30  lbs.  of  wheat 
and  150  of  potatoes.  The  manioc  is  cultivated  in  the  same  region;  and 
with  maize  forms  the  principal  nourishment  both  of  animals  and  men, 
in  temperatures  too  cool  for  the  banana.  The  European  grains  are 
grown  abundantly  in  the  temperate  regions.  The  sweet  potatoe  and  the 
yam  are  more  common  in  the  warmer  regions.  The  country  produces 
indigenous  varieties  of  the  cherry  tree,  apple  tree,  walnut,  mulberry  and 
strawberry.  Most  European  fruits  flourish  in  the  greatest  perfection. 
The  maguey,  a species  of  the  agave,  furnishes  the  most  profitable  culti- 
vation known  in  the  world.  It  produces  a vinous  drink,  of  which  the  in- 
habitants of  Mexico  drink  enormous  quantities.  The  fibres  of  the 
maguey  furnish  hemp  and  paper,  and  its  thorns  are  used  for  pins  and 
nails.  The  cultivation  of  the  sugar  cane  is  increasing.  The  best  indigo 
and  cocoa  are  produced  in  Guatimala.  The  cultivation  of  this  latter 
tree  is  exceedingly  profitable.  Nor  does  the  earth  produce  a more  useful 
tree  except  the  bread  fruit  tree.  The  nuts  of  the  cocoa  are  of  such  prime 
necessity  in  Mexico,  that  they  pass  for  small  money.  Our  term  chocolate , 
made  from  this  nut,  is  derived  from  the  Mexican  chocolatl.  The  nopal, 
or  cactus  cochinilifer,  upon  which  the  insect,  that  produces  cochineal 
feeds,  is  raised  on  a large  scale  in  Oaxaca.  The  jalap  of  medicine 
grows  in  the  region  of  Xalapa,  from  which  it  derives  its  name.'  Vanilla 
imparting  its  delightful  and  spicy  flavor  to  chocolate  is  cultivated.  Here, 
also  are  produced  the  balsams  of  Copaivi  and  Tolu.  Honduras  and  Cam- 
peachy  are  covered  with  forests  of  mahogony  and  logwood.  A species 
of  arum  yields  a black  dye.  Guiacum,  sassafras  and  tamarind  trees  are 
abundant  in  these  fertile  countries.  In  the  low  lands  are  found  wild 
ananas;  and  in  the  rich  rocky  soils  different  species  of  the  aloe,  and 
euphorbia.  This  country  has  yielded  to  flower  gardens  the  most  rich  and 
splendid  flowers. 

Zoology.  It  is  very  imperfectly  known.  Along  with  most  of  the  an 
imais  common  in  the  United  States,  is  the  coendou,  the  conepalt  wease., 
the  apaxa,  or  Mexican  stag,  and  a new  species  of  striped  squirrel.  A 
species  of  wolf  dogs  is  entirely  without  hair;  and  another  species  without 
voice,  which,  in  consequence  of  being  eaten  as  animal  food,  is  almost 
entirely  destroyed.  The  bison  and  musk  ox  are  found  in  immense 
Vol.  II.  18 


138 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC* 


droves  in  the  plains  of  New  Mexico.  The  reindeer  of  that  country  are 
so  large  and  strong,  as  to  be  used  in  some  places  as  beasts  of  draught. 
The  prairie  dog  is  a native  of  the  countries  near  the  Rio  del  Norte.  The 
antelope  and  mountain  sheep  are  found  in  California.  The  jaguar,  and 
the  cougar,  which  are  fierce  animals,  bearing  a resemblance  to  the  tiger 
and  lion  of  Asia  and  Africa,  are  seen  in  Guatimala,  and  the  hot  regions 
of  Mexico.  Hernandez  says,  that  the  Mexican  miztli  resembles  the  lion 
without  his  mane. 

Mexico  is  the  country  of  large  and  splendid  birds,  abounding  in  them, 
as  Africa  does  in  beasts.  Domestic,  European  animals  have  multiplied 
in  an  incredible  degree.  Innumerable  droves  of  wild  horses  scour  over 
the  plains  of  New  Mexico.  Inconceivable  numbers  of  mules  are  raised. 
The  trade  between  Mexico  and  Vera  Cruz  alone  employs  70,000.  There 
are  families  that  possess  from  50,000  to  100,000  oxen,  cows,  and  horses, 
and  others  with  droves  of  sheep  equally  numerous. 

Population.  It  is  well  known,  that  Mexico  has  been  in  a state  of 
revolution,  and  of  civil  and  intestine  commotion  for  many  years.  A 
greater  degree  of  freedom,  the  removal  of  monopolies  and  interdicts,  the 
higher  excitements  of  newly  created  motives  and  hopes,  the  new  scope 
opened  to  enterprise  by  free  institutions  must,  necessarily,  be  highly  favo- 
rable to  increase  of  population ; and  must  tend  rapidly  to  repair  the 
wastes  of  civil  wars,  massacres,  and  assassinations.  All  things  consid- 
ered, and  taking  the  basis  of  former  increase,  and  the  diminution  of  the 
wars  and  troubles  of  the  revolution,  as  elements,  the  population  may  be 
safely  rated  at  8,000,000.  The  great  impediments  in  the  way  of  the  in- 
crease of  population,  are  the  ravages  of  the  small  pox,  which  will  soon  be 
laid  out  of  the  calculation,  as  vaccination  has  been  successfully  introduced 
into  the  country.  The  next  impediment  is  a pestilence  peculiar  to  the 
climate,  and  only  incident  to  the  Indian  race,  called  Matlazahuatl.  When 
it  prevails,  it  is  sweeping,  like  the  plague,  and  carries  dismay  and  death 
into  the  healthy  interior  regions  of  the  high  plateau.  Happily,  it  shows 
itself  only  at  long  intervals. 

Famine  sometimes  prevails  in  this  abundant  and  fertile  country.  Of 
all  people,  the  Indians  are  most  indolent  and  improvident.  They  seldom 
accumulate  more  than  suffices  for  subsistence  from  week  to  week.  Thou- 
sands of  the  poorer  classes  are  employed  in  the  operations  of  mining. 
Consequently  the  occurrence  of  a dry  season,  or  a frost  produces  a fam 
ine,  followed  too  frequently  by  epidemic  diseases.  In  1804,  a frost  in 
August  destroyed  the  maize;  and  so  severe  a famine  ensued,  that  more 
than  300,000  people  perished  in  consequence  of  the  subsequent  famine 
and  disease.  In  the  revolutionary  movements,  46,000  are  calculated  to 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


139 


have  perished  in  battle;  but  those,  who  so  fall,  always  constitute  but  a 
small  portion  of  the  mortality,  that  is  necessarily  connected  with  their 
death. 

The  population  is  divided  into  four  great  classes,  subdivided  into  eight 
castes.  1.  Aboriginal  Americans.  2.  Spaniards  born  in  Europe.  3.  Cre 
oles  born  in  America.  4.  Negroes,  slaves  and  descendants  of  negroes* 
5.  Mixed  classes,  metis.  6.  The  offspring  of  whites  and  Indians.  7.  Mu- 
lattoes,  the  offspring  of  Whites  and  Negroes.  8.  Zambos  the  mixture  of 
Indians  and  Negroes. 

The  Indians  are  copper  colored,  like  those  of  the  United  States.  They 
possess  great  muscular  strength,  and  an  almost  entire  exemption  from 
personal  deformity;  and  generally  live  to  a great  age.  They  are  super- 
stitiously  devoted  to  the  ceremonial  of  the  Catholic  church.  Every  one 
has  remarked  their  astonishing  aptitude  to  carving  and  painting.  They 
seem  extremely  destitute  of  fancy  and  imagination.  Their  songs  and 
dances  have'  a tinge  of  melancholy.  Their  taste  for  flowers  is  carried  to 
a passion ; and  the  Indian  shop-keeper  seats  himself  amidst  an  entrench- 
ment of  verdure,  and  decks  his  shop  with  the  most  beautiful  flowers. 
The  unsubdued  Indians  on  the  borders  of  New  Mexico  differ  little  from 
those  of  the  United  States. 

The  Spanish  from  Old  Spain  called  gauchupines  formerly  enjoyed  all 
the  high  offices  and  consideration.  Since  the  revolution,  many  of  them 
have  perished.  The  remainder  are  subject  to  penalties  and  confiscations. 
The  country  born  descendants  of  the  Spanish  are  called  Creoles.  The 
descendants  of  the  Spanish  of  the  Canary  Islands,  who  are  numerous, 
are  called  Islenos.  The  natives  of  mixed  blood  comprehend  two  millions 
and  a half.  All  the  shades  of  this  intermixture  are  expressed  by  parti- 
cular words,  incorporated  with  the  language.  The  child  of  a white  and 
an  Indian  is  called  Metis.  The  complexion  is  almost  a perfect  white. 
He  has  a scanty  beard,  and  small  hands  and  feet,  and  a particular  obli- 
quity of  the  eyes.  The  offspring  of  the  Whites  and  the  Negroes  are 
noted  for  the  violence  of  their  passions,  and  their  volubility  of  speech. 
The  descendants  of  Negroes  and  Indians  are  called  Chino , or  Chinese. 
The  union  of  a white  with  a female  Mulatto  originates  the  caste  of  quar- 
teroons.  When  a female  Quarteroon  marries  a white  the  offspring  is  cal 
led  Quinteroon.  The  children  of  a white  and  a quarteroon  are  consid- 
ered of  pure  blood.  Those  mixtures,  by  which  the  child  becomes  dark- 
er than  the  mother,  are  called  Saltra-Atras,  or  Back-Steps. 

These  distinctions  of  caste  enter  into  self-estimation,  and  standing  in 
society.  Innumerable  quarrels  and  litigations  grow  out  of  these  distinc- 
tions, and  the  qualifications  or  disqualifications  annexed  to  them.  It 
frequently  happens,  that  those,  suspected  of  having  mixed  blood,  claim 


140 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


in  the  courts  declarations,  that  they  are  whites.  Rich  and  dark  colored 
Mulattoes  contrive  to  get  themselves  whitened , as  the  phrase  is.  When 
the  applicant  is,  palpably,  dark  to  the  eye,  the  sentence  of  the  court  sim- 
ply states,  that  such  or  such  a one  may  consider  himself  white. 

There  are  no  hot  tropical  countries,  where  there  are  so  few  negro 
slaves.  There  are  not  more  than  10,000  in  the  whole  country;  the 
greater  part  of  whom  arc  confined  to  Vera  Cruz,  Acapulco,  and  the  hot 
country  in  their  vicinity.  There  are,  also,  considerable  numbers  of  slaves 
made  by  taking  prisoners  from  the  independent  Indians  in  the  Mexican 
conflicts  with  them.  The  slaves  are  generally  well  treated,  and  are  pro- 
tected by  the  laws.  There  is,  comparatively,  little  other  than  free  labor, 
and  the  laws  have  made  provision  for  the  complete  emancipation  of  all 
children  born  after  a certain  period. 

Languages.  More  than  twenty  original  languages  were  spoken  in 
Mexico.  The  Creoles  and  the  greater  portion  of  the  mixed  races  speak 
and  write  Spanish.  The  native  languages  are  famous  for  terminations 
in  tli,  tla,  ttl,  all , &c.  Many  of  the  words  consist  of  eleven  syllables. 
The  complication  and  richness  of  the  grammatical  forms  seem  to  prove 
the  high  original  intelligence  of  those,  who  inverted,  or  methodized  them. 

Topography.  New  California  borders  the  coast  of  the  Pacific  Ocean 
from  Port  San  Francisco  to  the  settlement  of  San  Diego.  The  sky 
here,  though  often  foggy  and  humid,  is  extremely  mild.  This  pictur- 
esque country  displays  on  every  side  magnificent  forests,  or  verdant 
savannas,  where  the  herds  of  deer  and  elks  of  enormous  size  graze  un- 
disturbed. The  soil  is  fertile.  The  vine,  olive  and  wheat  prosper.  In 
1802  the  missions  were  18,  and  the  permanent  cultivators  15,560. 

San  Francisco,  the  most  northern  presidio,  is  situated  upon  a bay  of 
the  same  name,  into  which  the  Rio  San  Felipe,  which  rises  in  lake  Tim- 
panogas,  enters.  Wheat  here,  with  very  little  care,  yields  thirty-five  for 
one.  Beautiful  forests  of  oak,  intermingled  with  winding  prairies,  give 
the  country  the  appearance  of  an  artificial  park.  Monterey  is  the  seat 
of  government.  The  aspect  of  the  country  is  charming,  and  the  inhab- 
itants enjoy  a perpetual  spring.  Santa  Barbara  is  situated  on  a pass, 
between  the  continent  and  two  or  three  small  islands.  The  mission  of 
San  Bueneventura  is  a fertile  district,  but  sometimes  exposed  to  severe 
droughts.  Vancouver  saw  in  the  gardens  of  the  missionaries,  apples, 
pears,  figs,  oranges,  grapes,  pomegranates,  two  species  of  bananas,  cocoa 
nuts,  sugar  canes,  indigo  plants,  and  several  leguminous  vegetables. 

Old  California,  or  the  peninsula  of  California,  is  bounded  S.  and  W.  by 
the  Pacific,  the  gulf  of  California,  and  the  Vermilion  sea  on  the  coast. 
Its  climate  is  hot  and  dry.  The  sky,  of  a deep  azure,  is  seldom  obscured 
by  clouds.  The  soil  is  arid,  and  the  cylindrical  cactus  is  often  the  only 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


141 


vegetable,  that  relieves  the  barrenness  of  the  waste.  Where  there  is 
moisture  and  a vegetable  mould,  grains  and  fruits  multiply  in  a most 
astonishing  manner,  and  the  vines  yield  a generous  wine,  like  that  of 
the  Canaries.  The  sheep  are  large,  and  yield  a very  fin©  wool.  A great 
number  of  wild  quadrupeds  are  named,  and  a great  and  beautiful  variety 
of  birds.  The  pearls,  that  are  fished  on  this  coast,  are  irregular  in  figure, 
but  have  a beautiful  water.  There  are  gold  and  silver  mines;  but  they  are 
not  much  worked  for  want  of  materials.  Native  salt  is  abundantly  collected 
on  the  plains.  The  inhabitants  may  amount  to  9,000,  and  are  dispersed 
over  a country  larger  than  England.  Loretto  is  the  chief  town.  The 
inhabitants  of  all  classes  may  amount  to  1,000. 

The  Indians  of  these  countries  were  an  extremely  degraded  ra.ce.  The 
Jesuits  began  the  task  of  their  conversion,  in  1698.  The  wise  fathers 
collected  these  wandering  tribes,  and  formed  them  into  a stationary  and 
cultivating  people,  who  built  houses,  and  erected  chapels  amidst  the 
rocks  and  brambles.  Here  the  fathers  diffused  order,  peace  and  plenty 
among  their  numerous  subjects.  They  were  banished  by  an  unjust  and 
impolitic  decree.  The' Franciscans  have  succeeded  them  in  the  mission. 
Their  simple  dwellings  have  a picturesque  appearance.  The  converted 
natives  are  treated  with  gentleness  and  affection. 

New  Mexico  includes  all  the  country  between  California  and  Louisi- 
ana. A narrow  belt  of  country  along  the  Rio  del  Norte  is  thinly  peopled. 
The  town  of  Santa  Fe  contains  5000,  Albuquerque  6000,  and  Taos  as 
many  inhabitants.  The  population  consists  of  poor  colonists,  whose 
scattered  hamlets  are  frequently  ravaged  by  the  powerful  and  fierce  tribes 
of  Indians,  that  surround  them.  Their  principal  subsistence  is  by  tend- 
ing their  cattle  and  flocks.  They  live  in  walled  towns,  built  as  fortresses^ 
to  defend  them  from  sudden  attacks  of  the  Indians.  The  houses  and 
walls  are  built  of  unburnt  bricks  in  continued  ranges  in  the  form  of  a 
hollow  square.  The  soil  is  fertile,  but  the  rains  are  so  unfrequent,  that 
the  cultivation  succeeds  only  by  artificial  irrigation.  The  environs  of 
the  Passo  del  Norte  produce  delicious  grapes  and  generous  wines.  Many 
of  the  inhabitants  number  their  cattle,  horses  aud  mules  by  thousands. 
The  plains  are  naked  of  trees,  while  the  mountains  are  covered  with 
forests,  among  the  trees  of  which  pines  are  predominant.  Antelopes, 
mountain  sheep  and  buffaloes  are  abundant  in  this  region.  There  are 
salt  springs,  and  numerous  mines  of  silver.  The  people  of  the  United 
States  carry  on  an  extensive  trade  with  this  country,  chiefly  by  the  way 
of  the  Council  Bluffs  on  the  Missouri  and  Santa  Fe  in  New  Mexico. 
The  mountains  at  the  sources  of  the  Arkansas  are  sublime  elevations 
above  the  point  of  congelation.  Many  of  them  have  table  summits. 
That  the  soil  is  underlaid  wuth  strata  of  calcareous  rock  is  attested  by  a 


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MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


most  singular  phenomenon.  In  1752,  the  bed  of  the  Rio  del  Norte  be 
came  dry  for  an  extent  of  150  leagues.  It  had  sunk,  and  passed  through 
subterraneous  chasms,  and  so  continued  to  flow  for  some  weeks,  when,  no 
doubt,  the  chasm  became  choaked,  and  the  river  resumed  its  former 
course.  The  town  of  Matamoras  containing  8 or  10,000  inhabitants,  is 
near  its  mouth. 

Savages.  Among  the  numerous  tribes,  that  inhabit  New  Mexico,  the 
Appaches  and  the  Commanches  are  the  most  numerous  and  important. 
They  hunt,  fight  and  almost  live  on  horse-back.  They  are  exceedingly 
formidable  enemies  to  the  stationary  population,  and  the  shock  of  their 
charge  on  horse-back  is  represented,  as  being  irresistible,  at  least  by  their 
opponents  the  timid  colonists.  Some  of  the  tribes,  that  inhabit  the  Col- 
orado, that  flows  into  the  gulf  of  California,  are  represented’to  have  con- 
siderable towns.  A more  recent  traveller,  who  descended  the  river  from 
its  sources  to  its  mouth,  describes  them,  as  barbarous  and  naked.  Arispe, 
the  chief  town  of  Sonora,  contains  7,000  inhabitants,  and  Cinaloa,  cap- 
ital of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  10,000.  In  this  province  are  rich 
mines.  Culiacan,  capital  of  the  province  of  the  same  name,  contains 
11,000  inhabitants.  Durango  is  the  chief  town  of  New  Biscay,  and 
contains  12,000  inhabitants,  with  some  splendid  edifices.  The  country 
nbounds  in  silver  mines.  Batopilas  and  Cosigirachui  and  Chihuahua  are 
considerable  towns,  containing  from  8 to  10,000  inhabitants.  Monclova 
and  Santa  Rosa  are  neat  towns  in  the  province  of  Coahuila.  Monterey 
in  New  Leon  is  a considerable  place.  On  the  upper  courses  of  the  Rio 
del  Norte  the  country  is  dry,  and  seldom  visited  with  rains.  The  greater 
part  of  the  cultivation  is  carried  on  by  irrigation.  In  Texas  San  Antonio 
is  the  most  important  town.  Nacogdoches,  once  a village  of  some  impor- 
tance, has  suffered  from  the  troubles  of  the  country,  and  is  in  ruins.  San 
Felipe  de  Austin  is  the  chief  town  of  Mr.  Austin’s  interesting  settlement 
on  the  Brassos.  The  lower  slope  of  this  country,  towards  the  gulf,  has 
deep  forests  along  the  water  courses,  and  much  resembles  the  south  wes- 
tern part  of  Louisiana.  This  province  is  chiefly  peopled  with  adventur- 
ers from  the  United  States.  Potosi  is  the  chief  town  of  the  province  of 
the  same  name,  and  contains  12,000  inhabitants.  One  of  the  richest 
mines  in  the  world,  that  of  Real  de  Catorce,  is  near  this  city.  Zacatecas, 
chief  town  of*  a province  of  the  same  name,  contains  33,000  inhabitants, 
and  exceedingly  rich  mines  are  in  its  mountainous  district.  Guadalax- 
ara  contains  a university,  is  a bishop’s  see,  and  has  30,000  inhabitants. 
Compostella  is  the  chief  town  of  a district  abounding  in  cocoa  nut  trees. 
Tonala  and  Purification  are  towns  in  the  south  of  New  Gallicia.  Their 
districts  are  famous  for  sugar  and  Cochineal.  Cape  Corrientes  is  a cele- 
brated promontory  on  the  coast,  where  the  winds  seem  to  disperse,  and 


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143 


change  the  direction  of  their  courses.  The  port  of  San  Bias  is  surrounded 
by  deep  and  beautiful  forests,  which  furnish  ship  timber;  but  is  almost  unin- 
habited from  its  lowness,  and  its  extreme  insalubrity.  The  intendencies 
of  Guanaxuato  and  Valladolid  are  picturesque  countries  with  volcanic 
mountains.  The  richest  silver  mines  in  Mexico  are  near  Guanaxuato. 
This  town  is  riclb,  and  flourishing,  containing  70,000  inhabitants.  The 
mine  of  the  Count  de  Valenciana,  in  1804,  had  been  dug  1960  feet  per 
pendicular,  making  it  the  deepest  cut  known  in  the  world.  Valladolid 
has  a delicious  climate,  is  a pretty  town,  and  contains  18,000  inhabitants. 

The  intendency  of  Mexico  is  a rich  and  delicious  country,  abounding 
with  mountains,  some  of  them  volcanic,  and  containing  mines  and  pre- 
cious stones.  The  level  country  is  replenished  with  the  most  delicious 
fruits,  anise  seed,  sugar  and  cochineal.  A remarkable  curiosity  in  this 
piovince  is  the  Ponte  Dios,  or  bridge  of  God,  a rock,  under  which  the 
water  has  hollowed  itself  a canal.  The  waters  have  here  cut  deep  and  foam- 
ing  courses,  over  which,  at  a vast  distance  above  them,  the  traveller  cros- 
ses by  bridges  suspended  by  ropes  of  the  agave. 

On  the  very  ridge  of  the  great  Mexican  plateau,  a chain  of  porphyritic 
mountains  encloses  an  elliptical  valley,  the  general  level  of  which  is  6700 
above  the  sea.  Five  lakes  fill  the  middle  of  this  valley.  The  ancient 
city  of  Mexico  stood  north  of  the  united  lakes  of  Xochimilco  and  Chaleo, 
and  to  the  east  of  lake  Tezcuco.  Much  of  the  marshy  ground,  that  sur- 
rounded the  ancient  city,  has  been  drained,  or  filled  up.  A canal,  dug 
at  a prodigious  expense,  under  the  mountains,  contributes  still  farther  to 
drain  it.  The  houses  are  built  on  piles;  and  the  ground  is  still  soft,  and 
by  no  means  firm.  The  streets,  though  wide,  are  badly  paved.  The 
houses  in  this  strange  and  rich  vale  on  the  summits  of  mountains,  are  as 
magnificent  and  unique,  as  the  position.  They  are  spacious,  and  built  of 
porphyry  and  amygdaloid.  Many  of  the  palaces  and  private  mansions 
have  an  imposing  show,  and  glitter  with  metalic  riches.  The  cathedral 
is  perhaps,  the  richest  in  the  world.  Altars,  candle-sticks  and  images  of 
the  saints  are  of  colossal  size,  and  solid  silver,  and  ornamented  with 
precious  stones.  Palaces,  mansions  of  great  families,  beautiful  fountains 
and  extensive  squares  adorn  the  interior  of  this  city.  Near  the  suburbs, 
to  the  north,  is  the  alameda,  or  chief  promenade.  B ound  this  walk  flows 
a rivulet  forming  a fine  square,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  a fountain,  with 
a basin.  Eight  alleys  of  trees  terminate  here,  in  the  form  of  an  altar. 
The  detestable  Inquisition,  finally  abolished  by  the  ex-emperor  Iturbide, 
was  near  this  square. 

This  city,  in  the  centre  of  the  country,  is  the  seat  of  an  immense  com- 
merce between  Vera  Cruz  on  the  gulf,  and  Acapulco  on  the  Pacific.  The 
shops  glitter  with  the  abundance  of  gold,  silver  and  jewels.  This  superb 


144 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


city  is  inhabited  by  161,000  people,  and  is  the  centre  of  more  scientific 
establishments,  than  any  other  town  in  Spanish  America.  The  botanical 
garden,  the  school  of  mines,  the  Academy  of  the  fine  arts,  and  the  poly- 
technique school  are  noble  establishments.  Excellent  draughtsmen, 
painters  and  sculptors  have  been  produced  in  them.  The  environs  pre- 
sent a scene  of  pleasure  without  a parallel  elsewhere  in  America.  Hun- 
dreds of  canoes  on  the  Canal  Chalcho,  full  of  Indians,  sitting  under  awn- 
ings, having  their  heads  crowned  with  the  gaudiest  flowers,  with  each  a 
musician  on  the  stern  playing  the  guitar,  and  some  of  the  party  singing, 
or  dancing,  present  a scene  of  innocent  mirth.  The  people  of  the  city 
are  given  to  gambling  and  pleasure.  The  floating  gardens  on  the  lakes, 
where  flowers  and  vegetables  used  to  be  cultivated,  are  diminishing.  The 
most  important  arts  are  here  yet  in  their  infancy.  Saws  driven  by  water,  or 
hand,  are  unknown  and  their  planks  are  hewed  out  with  the  broad  axe. 
The  ascent  to  the  table  plain,  on  which  this  city  is  built,  is  of  immense 
height,  and  so  steep  as  to  require  19  mules  to  draw  the  beam  of  a steam 
engine  up  the  steeper  parts  of  the  ascent.  It  is  astonishing,  that  no  such 
thing  as  a rail  road  to  this  city  has  yet  been  constructed.  A noble  road 
of  the  common  kind  has  been  not  long  since  completed. 

Most  of  the  monuments  of  the  ancient  grandeur  of  this  country  have 
disappeared  from  about  the  present  city.  Some  grand  memorials  of  the 
empire  of  Montezuma  still  remain.  To  the  north  east  of  the  city  are  the 
ancient  temples  of  the  sun  and  moon.  They  are  pyramidal  in  figure,  and 
the  former  measures  at  its  base  645  feet,  and  is  175  feet  high.  That  of 
the  moon  is  somewhat  smaller.  They  are  incased  by  a thick  wall  of 
stone. 

Queretaro  is  north  east  of  Mexico,  has  40,000  inhabitants,  and  is  one  of 
the  handsomest  cities  of  the  new  world.  Zacatala  and  Acapulco  are  un- 
der a burning  sky  on  the  shores  of  the  Pacific. 

Puebla  is  an  intendency,  very  populous  and  well  cultivated,  and  its  chief 
town,  called  Puebla  de  los  Angelos,  or  the  angels,  is  the  fourth  town  in 
Spanish  America,  in  comparative  importance,  containing  68,000  inhabit- 
ants. Cholula  contains  16,000  souls.  Tezcuco  contains  splendid  an- 
cient remains,  and  5,000  inhabitants.  At  Atlisco  the  traveller  is  shown 
an  enormous  cypress  73  feet  in  circumference. 

Vera  Cruz  is  a beautiful  town,  and  the  centre  of  the  foreign  trade  of 
Mexico.  Its  position  is  exceedingly  unpleasant,  being  surrounded  by 
arid  sands,  or  ill  drained  marshes.  The  climate  is  hot  and  unhealthy ; 
and  the  only  water,  fit  for  drinking,  is  collected  in  cisterns.  The  harbor 
is  insecure  and  of  difficult  access.  It  is  often  desolated  with  yellow  fever; 
and  yet  the  position  is  so  important  to  commence,  that  16,000  people  in 
habit  this  disagreeable  position.  It  is  the  seat  of  an  immense  trade.  The 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


145 


inhabitants  often  repair,  for  coolness,  health,  and  the  beauties  of  nature, 
to  the  delicious  town  ofXalapa,  situated  among  the  shelving  declivities 
of  the  mountains.  This  town  derives  its  name  from  the  medicinal  root 
called  Jalap,  growing  near  it.  The  province  of  Tabasco  is  thickly 
wooded,  abounding  with  the  Mexican  tiger,  and  when  cultivated,  is  fer- 
tile. Tehuantepec  has  a harbor  on  the  Pacific,  with  noble  ancient  ruins 
at  Mitzla  in  its  vicinity.  Yucatan  has  a healthy,  though  a hot  and  dry 
climate,  abounding  with  dye  woods,  and  in  ambergris.  The  coasts  are 
covered  with  forests  of  mangrove,  and  impenetrable  hedges  of  Althea 
and  Camwood.  In  the  dry  seasons,  the  people  obtain  their  drinking  water 
from  an  incision  in  the  wild  pines.  Merida,  the  chief  town,  contains 
10,000  inhabitants.  The  English  cut  logwood  and  mahogany  here,  and 
have  some  small  colonies  on  the  coast.  Guatimala  extends  along  the 
Pacific.  The  plains  are  exceedingly  fertile.  Maize  brings  300  for  one; 
and  the  country  produces  the  finest  indigo.  In  the  forests  are  many  ani- 
mals imperfectly  known,  and  many  non  descript  balsamic  shrubs.  Silver 
mines  and  volcanoes  abound,  and  the  country  is  more  subject,  than  any 
other  known,  to  earthquakes.  The  ancient  city  of  Guatimala  was  sunk 
in  1777.  Never  was  earthquake  accompanied  with  more  terrific  and 
destructive  phenomena.  The  sea  rose  from  its  bed.  One  volcano  poured 
out  boiling  water,  and  another  waves  of  blazing  lava.  Eight  thousand 
families  were  swallowed  up  in  a moment.  The  spot  is  now  indicated 
only  by  a frightful  desert.  The  new  town  is  built  four  leagues  from 
the  old  one.  Fine  cocoa,  cotton  and  figs  are  produced  here.  Chiapa  is 
a cheerful  town,  inhabited  by  4,000  families  of  Indians.  The  capital  of 
the  singular  province  of  Vera  Paz  is  Koban.  It  rains  here  nine  months  in 
the  year.  Great  numbers  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  yield  different  balsamic 
resins.  Dragon’s  blood  is  produced  among  them.  Deed  canes  100  feet 
in  length  are  found,  and  uf  such  a thickness,  that  from  one  knot  to  anoth- 
er 25ibs.  of  water  were  contained.  The  bees  of  this  region  make  an 
uncommonly  liquid  honey.  Among  the  wild  animals  is  the  Tapir  with 
teeth  longer  than  those  of  the  wild  boar,  with  which,  it  is  affirmed,  the  ani- 
mal can  cut  down  a tree.  Its  skin  is  six  fingers  thick,  and  when  dried, 
resists  every  kind  of  weapon. 

The  province  of  Honduras  is  little  known.  To  the  west  it  contains  the 
little  Spanish  towns  of  Caymagua  and  Truxillo.  In  a lake,  near  the  latter 
there  are  said  to  be  floating  islands  with  large  trees  on  them.  Caverns  have 
been  hollowed  out  by  the  waters  under  several  of  the  mountains.  The 
musquetoe  coast  is  properly  so  named  from  the  intolerable  annoyance  of 
the  insects  of  that  name.  Some  years  since,  there  were  exported  by  the 
English  from  this  country  800,000  feet  mahogony,  200,000  lbs  of  Sarsapa- 
rilla, and  10,000  lbs.  of  tortoise  shell,  beside  tiger  and  deer  skins. 

Voir  II.  19 


146 


MEXICAN  REPUBLIC. 


Nicaragua  is  a large  and  important  province.  The  lake  of  the  same 
name  has  several  beautiful  islands,  on  one  of  which  is  a volcano,  which 
continually  burns.  This  great  lake  discharges  into  the  Atlantic  by  the 
river  St.  Johns,  on  which  there  are  a great  many  inconsiderable  falls. 
Towards  the  outlet  of  the  river,  the  shore  is  marshy  and  pestilential,  and 
the  Indians  numerous,  and  perfidious.  It  is  well  known,  that  by  this  river, 
and  through  this  lake,  it  has  been  proposed  to  unite  the  Atlantic  and 
Pacific  ocean  by  a canal.  This  province  is  not  known  to  have  any  mines, 
but  is  exceedingly  fruitful  in  all  the  common  productions  of  tropical  cli- 
mates. Leon,  the  capital,  is  situated  on  a lake,  that  discharges  into  Ni- 
caragua. Its  harbor  is  at  a distance  on  the  south  sea.  The  palmtrees 
grow,  here  to  a colossal  size.  Nicaragua,  Granada  and  Xeres  are  the 
other  considerable  towns.  Little  is  known  of  them. 

Costa  Rica,  or  the  rich  coast,  is  so  called  in  derision,  as  having  no 
mines.  But  it  is  in  fact  rich  in  nature’s  picturesque  scenery,  noble 
woods,  a fertile  soil,  and  rich  pastures.  Cattle  and  swine  swarm  in  them. 
In  the  gulf  of  Salinas  is  found  the  muscle  yielding  the  rich  purple , proba- 
bly, the  ancient  purple,  the  dye  of  which  was  supposed  to  be  lost.  The 
capital,  Carthago,  is  a flourishing  town  in  the  interior.  Nicoya  is  a port 
on  the  Pacific,  where  vessels  are  built,  and  refitted  The  caoutchoue 
or  India  rubber  is  a well  known  production  of  this  country. 

Veragua  is  a province  still  less  known,  than  the  former.  It  has  be- 
longed at  one  time  to  the  government  of  Guatimala,  and  at  another  to  that 
of  Terra  Firma.  It  is  covered  with  mountains,  forests,  and  pasture 
grounds.  It  has  silver  mines,  that  are  not  wrought.  The  capital  is  San 
Yago.  The  descendants  of  Columbus  in  the  female  line  bear  the  title  of 
dukes  of  Veragua. 

History.  Our  plan  allows  no  place  for  detail  under  this  head.  Under 
the  empire  of  Montezuma  and  Guatimozin,  the  Mexican  empire  had 
cities,  towns,  temples — a police — the  art  of  working  in  gold,  sdver  and 
copper,  a kind  of  printing — and  no  small  measures  of  barbaric  splendor 
along  with  many  traces  of  art  and  civilization.  The  empire  was  con- 
quered by  Cortes  with  a few  Spaniards.  That  of  the  Spaniards  arose 
upon  the  ruins  of  the  Mexican  dynasty.  Stretching  over  an  immense 
extent,  embracing  a greater  variety  of  soil,  climate  and  position  than  any 
other  country— more  of  nature’s  wealth,  and  more  of  the  factitious  and 
false  wealth  of  the  precious  metals,  than  could  be  found  elsewhere  on  the 
globe,, their  establishments  extended  among  the  mountains,  valleys  and 
plains  of  this  immense  country  in  silence,  and  hidden  from  the  world. 
Nothing  hindered  it  from  becoming  one  of  the  most  populous  and  pow- 
erful empires  in  the  world,  but  the  bigotry  of  the  religion — the  ignorance 
and  mutual  jealousies  of  the  population,  and  the  odious  monopolies  and 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


147 


interdictions  of  a fanatic  narrow  minded  government.  The  revolutions 
of  the  United  States  and  of  the  old  world  gradually  and  imperceptibly 
began  to  operate  in  Mexico.  The  assumption  of  the  crown  of  Spain  by 
a brother  of  Napoleon,  who  was  not  recognized  in  the  new  world,  facili- 
tated revolutionary  movements.  The  revolution  here  was  effected  with 
less  bloodshed,  than  in  South  America.  After  a variety  of  revolutionary 
movements,  Iturbide  by  military  usurpation  proclaimed  himself  empe- 
ror of  Mexico.  His  imperial  sway  was  of  short  date.  He  was  banished 
the  country,  and  a government  was  established  on  a model  very  similar 
to  that  of  the  United  States.  The  ancient  provinces  and  intendencies 
form  states,  that  are  represented  in  general  congress  at  Mexico,  in  a 
legislature  modelled  after  ours.  The  chief  officer  of  the  government  is 
called  president.  The  last  place,  which  Spain  held  in  the  country,  was 
the  castle  of  St.  John  d’  Ulloa,  commanding  the  coast  of  Vera  Cruz. 
There  has  been  a recent  and  bloody  revolution,  the  chief  scene  of  which 
was  the  capital.  Order  is  restored;  but  there  is  a general  persuasion 
not  only  abroad,  but  in  the  country  itself,  that  the  institutions  of  this 
country  are  as  yet  unsettled.  It  is  cause  for  regret,  that  one  of  the  most 
extensive  and  beautiful  positions  of  the  globe,  calling  itself  free,  should 
not  have  the  stability  and  quiet  of  real  freedom.  The  great  evils  to  be 
banished  from  this  fair  country  are  the  twin  monsters  ignorance  and 
bigotry. 

South  America  is  the  richest,  healthiest,  most  picturesque,  and  ex* 
cepting  Africa,  the  most  extensive  peninsula  on  the  globe.  Of  the  two 
Americas  the  northern  division  ought  to  be  called  Columbia,  and  the 
country  now  under  consideration  simply  America.  This  vast  country 
contains  100,000  square  leagues.  Its  greatest  length  from  Point  Galli- 
anas  in  Terra  Firma,  in  12°  N.  L.  to  Terra  del  Fuego  in  56°  S.  L.  is 
nearly  5,000  miles.  Its  greatest  breadth  from  Cape  St.  Roque  in  Brazil 
to  Cape  Froward  in  Patagonia,  is  4,800  miles. 

General  Aspect.  In  this  wonderful  country  rivers  roll  through  an  ex- 
tent of  4,000  miles,  and  are  so  broad,  that  the  eye  cannot  reach  from  one 
shore  to  the  other.  In  one  point  are  seen  mountain-summits  above  the 
clouds,  white  with  snows,  that  never  melt;  while  their  bases  rear  the  ba- 
nana and  pine  apple.  In  a day  a man  can  pass  through  all  climates,  from 
that  of  the  equator  to  that  of  Nova  Zembla.  In  other  places  volcanoes, 
too  numerous  to  be  classed,  throw  out  smoke  and  flames.  Still  in  other 
places,  are  vast  and  deep  forests  abounding  in  all  the  grand  flowering 
and  gigantic  vegetation  of  tropical  climates,  which  spread  an  immense 
extent,  that,  has  never  yet  resounded  with  the  wood  cutter’s  hatchet. 
Nature  here  shows  herself  alternately  in  unexampled  magnificence,  beauty 
sublimity,  power  and  terror.  To  the  west  spreads  an  immense  chain  of 


148 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


mountains  with  a plateau  12,000  feet  above  the  sea.  East  of  this  is  a belt 
of  plains  and  marshes  three  times  as  broad,  penetrated  by  immense  rivers 
with  their  innumerable  branches.  To  the  east  is  another  chain  of  moun- 
tains less  elevated,  than  the  western.  Descendants  of  the  Spaniards  occupy 
the  western  chain  and  belt,  and  the  Portuguese  the  eastern.  Thus  South 
America  is  arranged  into  two  great  political  divisions. 

j Rivers.  The  Amazon  has  undisputed  claims  to  be  the  first  on  the 
globe  in  length,  breadth  and  depth.  Its  sources  are  in  the  Andes.  One 
of  its  chief  branches  is  the  Ucayal.  This  stream  is  formed  by  the  Mara- 
non  and  Apurimac.  The  other  branch  is  the  Lauricocha,  or  High  Mara- 
non.  From  San  Joaquin  d’Omaguas,  the  united  stream  rolls  its  broad 
wave  over  an  immense  plain,  to  which  great  numbers  of  rivers  bring 
down  their  tribute  from  the  mountains.  The  Napo,  Yupura,  Parana, 
Chuchivara  Yutay  and  Puruz  would  be  viewed,  as  great  rivers  in  any  other 
country.  Along  with  the  great  Bio  Negro  from  Terra  Firma,  they  are 
all  swallowed  up  in  the  Amazon.  This  prodigious  river  is  known  by 
authors  and  in  poetry  by  the  names  Orellana  or  Maranon.  But  the  bet- 
ter name  is  that  here  given,  which  had  its  origin  from  a supposed  notion 
of  women  on  its  banks,  who  were  clad  in  arms,  and  considered  the  males, 
as  the  women  are  viewed  in  other  countries . The  Madeira  is  another 
wide  branch  of  this  river.  The  Topayos  and  Xingu , also,  empty  them- 
selves into  it.  But  Araguay  ought  to  be  considered  an  independent  out- 
let, united  to  the  Amazon  by  a branch  of  communication.  In  its  upper 
courses,  this  river  varies  from  two  to  three  miles  in  width,  and  its  depth 
exceeds  100  fathoms.  Below  the  Xingu,  the  eye  cannot  discern  the  op- 
posite bank.  The  tide  is  felt  between  7 and  8 hundred  miles  from  the 
sea.  At  the  mouth  the  conflict  between  the  waves  of  the  sea  and  the 
force  of  this  mighty  stream  produces  a violent  and  dangerous  ripple. 

The  second  river  of  the  country,  and  far  surpassing  in  breadth  and 
depth  any  other  in  the  world,  except  the  Amazon,  is  the  La  Plata,  or  sil- 
ver river.  Its  chief  branch  is  the  Parana.  This  river  has  a grand  cata- 
ract notjar  from  the  town  of  Guayra.  From  the  north  the  Parana  re- 
ceives the  Paraguay.  The  Paraguay  receives  the  Pilcomaya,  a great  river 
rising  in  the  vicinity  ofPotosi.  The  La  Plata  receives,  also,  the  Vermejo 
and  Salado  from  the  Andes,  and  the  Uraguay  from  the  Brazils.  Its  ma- 
jestic course  is  to  the  full  as  broad,  as  the  Amazon  ; and  its  estuary  ex- 
ceeds the  British  channel  in  breadth.  The  Oronoco,  though  not  equal- 
ling either  of  these,  is  a vast  river.  It  rises  in  the  lake  Ypava  in  5°  5' 
N.  L.  It  passes  through  the  great  lake  Parima.  From  this  lake  it  issues 
by  two  mouths,  and  receives  the  Guyavari,  and  several  other  rivers  and 
falls  into  the  sea,  after  a course  of  nearly  1,000  miles.  When  it  meets  the 
sea,  its  green  colored  waves  strongly  contrast  with  the  blue  of  the  ocean. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


149 


The  stream,  formed  by  this  river  along  the  gulf  of  Paria,  is  a place  of 
most  formidable  navigation,  and  it  is  so  swift,  that  vessels  require  a fresh 
breeze  to  stem  it.  The  aspect  of  the  outlet  of  this  immense  river  con- 
vinced Columbus,  that  such  a body  of  fresh  water  could  only  issue  from 
a continent.  Here  it  was,  while  feeling  the  refreshing  land  breeze, 
charged  with  the  aromatic  fragrance  of  a boundless  wilderness  of  flowers, 
and  contemplating  the  etherial  mildness  of  the  sky,  that  the  famous  dis- 
coverer imagined  himself  near  the  garden  of  Eden,  and  that  the  Oronoco 
was  one  of  the  four  great  rivers,  mentioned  in  the  scriptures,  as  issuing 
from  Paradise.  Among  the  numerous  cataracts  of  this  river,  baron  Hum- 
boldt distinguishes  two,  the  Maypures  and  Astaires,  as  extremely  grand 
and  picturesque.  Between  the  Oronoco  and  the  Amazon,  there  is  a sin- 
gular communication,  by  means  of  the  Casiquiare.  Innumerable  smaller 
streams  water  this  vast  country. 

South  America,  like  Africa,  contains  both  rivers  and  lakes,  that  have 
no  known  outlet.  Such  is  the  lake  Titiaca,  connected  with  the  lake  des 
Angelos.  In  Tucuman,  and  south  west  of  Buenos  Ayres,  there  is  an 
immense  level  chain  furrowed  by  torrents  and  little  lakes,  which  lose 
themselves  in  the  sands  and  lagoons. 

Mountains.  The  Andes  derive  their  name  from  the  Peruvian  word 
anti , implying  copper.  These  mountains  commence  on  the  coast  of  the 
Pacific,  ten  or  twelve  leagues  from  the  shore.  Near  Potosi  and  lake  Tit" 
iaca,  the  chain  is  ISO  miles  broad.  Near  Quito  under  the  equator  are  the 
loftiest  summits  of  this  chain,  which  until  some  travellers  have  recently 
pronounced  the  Himalaya  in  Thibet  highest,  were  universally  accounted 
the  loftiest  on  our  globe.  At  Popayan  this  great  belt  terminates,  and  di- 
vides into  a number  of  distinct  chains.  The  Sierra  Nevada  de  Merida 
has  a height  of  14,000  feet;  the  Silla  de  Caraccas  13,896  feet.  Chimbora- 
zo in  Quito  has  generally  been  reckoned  at  24,000  feet  in  height,  and  is 
higher  than  mount  Etna  would  be  if  piled  on  the  summit  of  St.  Gothard. 
Cayambe,  Antisana  and  Cotopaxi  the  next  highest  summits  exceed 
19,000  feet.  The  natives  assert,  that  Capa  XJrcu,  at  present  an  extin- 
guished volcano,  was  once  higher  than  Chimborazo.  After  a continued 
eruption  of  eight  years,  the  high  cone  fell  in,  and  the  volcano  was  extin- 
guished. Near  Cuzco,  Xlimani  and  Cucurana  shoot  up  their  summits 
above  the  clouds. 

The  Andes  of  Chili  are  not  less  lofty,  than  those  of  Peru,  and  volca- 
noes are  still  more  numerous.  The  most  frequented  pass  of  these  moun- 
tains is  the  Paramo  de  Guanacas.  But  baron  Humboldt  preferred  that  of 
Quindiu  between  Hagua  and  Carthago.  He  first  crossed  a vast  and  deep 
forest,  generally  requiring  ten  or  twelve  days  to  traverse.  Not  a cabin 
is  met  in  ail  this  extent.  The  pathway  over  the  mountain  is  not  more 


150 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


than  cne  or  two  feet  in  breadth;  and  resembles  a hollow  gallery  open  to 
the  sky. 

The  Quebradas  are  immense  rents,  dividing  the  mass  of  the  Andes, 
and  breaking  the  continuity  of  the  chain,  which  they  traverse.  Moun- 
tains of  a great  size  might  be  swallowed  up  in  these  almost  fathomless 
ravines,  which  seem  so  many  peninsulas  on  the  bosom  of  an  aerial  ocean. 
It  is  at  the  bottom  of  these  Quebradas,  that  the  eye  of  the  terrified  travel- 
ler can  best  comprehend  the  gigantic  magnificence  of  these  mountains. 
Through  these  natural  gates,  the  great  rivers  find  a passage  to  the  sea. 

The  greater  part  of  the  population  of  these  countries  is  concentrated 
on  the  plateaus  of  these  prodigious  mountains.  Here  the  traveller  looks 
round  on  what  seems  to  be  a wide  plain,  or  a deep  valley.  He  forgets, 
that  the  villages  of  these  mountaineers,  these  pastures  covered  with  lamas 
and  sheep,  these  orchards  fenced  with  quickset  hedges,  these  luxuriant 
fields  occupy  a position  suspended  in  the  high  regions  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  can  hardly  bring  himself  to  believe,  that  this  habitable  region  is  more 
elevated  above  the  neighboring  Pacific,  than  the  summit  of  the  Pyrenees 
is  above  the  Mediterranean.  Antisana,  a village  at  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tain of  that  name,  is  the  highest  inhabited  spot  in  our  world,  being 
13,500  feet  above  the  sea.  The  structure  of  these  mountains  is  gener- 
ally granite  at  the  base,  and  the  crests  are  covered  with  porphyries,  and 
when  there  are  volcanoes,  with  obsidian  and  amygdaloid. 

Temperature.  In  the  torrid  zone  the  lower  limit  of  perpetual  snow  is 
14,760  feet.  In  the  temperate  zone  it  is  from  6 to  10,000  feet.  The 
temperature  is  a regular  and  constant  warmth,  like  a perpetual  spring. 
Accordingly  a journey  from  the  summit  of  the  Andes  to  the  sea,  or  vice 
versa  has  a medicinal  operation  upon  the  frame  sufficient  to  produce  the 
most  important  changes.  But  living  constantly  in  either  of  these  un- 
changeable zones  has  a tendency  to  enervate  both  body  and  mind  by  its 
monotonous  tranquility.  Summer,  spring,  and  winter  are  here  seated  on 
three  distinct  thrones,  which  they  never  quit.  The  palm,  the  Canana 
and  pine  apple,  together  with  the  most  brilliant  and  fragrant  flowers  in- 
habit the  region  at  the  base  of  these  mountains.  A single  variety  of  the 
palm  is  found  from  5,400  to  8,700  feet  high.  Above  that  commences  the 
belt  of  the  arborescent  fern,  and  the  cinchona,  the  bark  of  which  is  such 
a precious  remedy  in  fevers.  Between  3 and  4,000  feet  is  a most  rich 
and  abundant  turf,  with  various  beautiful  plants  and  flowers  and  mosses, 
that  are  always  green.  A broad  belt,  from  6 to  12,000  feet,  is  the  region 
of  Alpine  plants.  This  is  the  country  of  grasses.  In  the  distance  it  has 
the  appearance  of  a gilded  carpet.  Above  this  belt  to  that  of  perpetual 
snow  only  lichens  cover  the  rocks.  The  banana,  jatropha,  maize,  cocoa, 
sugar  cane  and  indigo  grow  in  the  region  of  the  palm.  Coffee  and  cotton 


SOUTH  AMERICA.. 


151 


extend  across  this  region  into  that  in  which  wheat  grows.  This  is 
found  in  full  perfection  at  4,500  feet.  Barley  from  that  to  6,000.  It  is 
however,  between  6 and  9,000  feet  high,  that  the  various  European  grains 
are  chiefly  cultivated.  The  chief  mines  of  the  Andes  are  higher  than 
those  of  Mexico,  and  are  generally,  above  the  region  of  perpetual  snow, 
away  from  cultivation  and  wood,  and  of  course  are  not  so  much  wrought, 
as  the  former. 

Animals.  In  the  hot  region  we  find  the  sloth,  the  terrible  boa  serpent 
the  crocodile,  and  the  cavia  hides  themselves  in  the  marshes.  The  Tanaya 
Crax  and  paroquet  mingle  the  brilliance  of  their  plumage  with  that  of 
the  flowers  and  leaves.  The  bowlings  of  tlie  alouates  are  heard,  and 
the  sapajou,  or  marmoset  monkeys  are  seen.  The  Yaguar,  the  Felix 
concolor  and  the  black  tiger  strive  to  satiate  their  sanguinary  appetite. 
Innumerable  musquitos  sting,  and  termites  and  ants  annoy  the  inhabit- 
ants; and  the  oestrus  punctures  the  flesh,  and  deposits  its  eggs  in  the  body. 
Still  higher  are  the  tapir,  sus  tajassu,  and  the  felix  pardalis;  and  the  pulex 
is  more  numerous  and  annoying,  than  lower  down.  Still  higher  we  find  the 
tiger  cat,  and  the  bear;  and  the  fleas  are  here  exceedingly  troublesome. 
From  9 to  12,000  feet  is  seen  a small  species  of  lion,  known  by  the  name 
Pouma,  the  lesser  bear  with  a white  forehead,  and  some  of  the  weasel 
tribe.  In  the  region  of  the  grasses,  from  12  to  15,000  feet,  feed  innume- 
rable herds  of  lamas,  vicunas  and  pacos.  In  this  region  culture  and 
gardening  cease,  and  man  dwells  in  the  midst  of  numerous  flocks  of 
lamas,  sheep,  and  oxen,  which  sometimes  stray  away  into  the  regions  of 
perpetual  snow  and  perish.  Some  lichens  grow  under  the  perpetual 
snow.  Above  all,  above  even  the  solitary  mountaineer  in  the  midst  of 
his  flocks  is  seen  the  prodigious  condor.  They  have  been  observed  sail- 
ing through  the  air  at  the  immense  height  of  21,100  feet. 

Caraccas.  New  Grenada,  Quito.  These  countries  have  been  called 
Terra  Firrna  and  Castile  d’or.  At  present  they  comprehend  the  provin- 
ces or  states  of  Varaguas,  Panama  and  Darien.  New  Grenada  Caraccas, 
Maracaibo,  Merida  Truxillo,  Varinas,  Spanish  Guiana  and  Cumana  and 
the  island  of  Margarita  belong  to  this  general  division.  This  country  has 
been  the  scene  of  recent  and  desolating  revolutionary  wars. 

According  to  the  difference  of  the  level  and  elevation  of  Caraccas,  pre- 
vails either  perpetual  spring  or  perpetual  summer.  The  rainy  and  dry 
season  completely  divide  the  year.  The  rainy  commences  in  November, 
and  lasts  till  April.  During  the  dry  season,  the  rains  are  less  frequent  j 
sometimes  even  none.  The  country  is  much  exposed  to  earthquakes. 
Mines  of  gold  and  copper  are  found;  but,  owing  to  the  recent  troubles, 
not  much  worked.  The  pearl  fishery  on  the  coast  is  now  in  consequence 
of  the  late  troubles,  nearly  abandoned.  The  forests  w'ould  supply  to  a 


152 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


settled  and  active  government  inexhaustible  supplies  of  ship  and  building 
timber.  Dyeing  and  cabinet  woods  abound.  Cinchona  and  sarsaparilla 
are  collected.  The  lake  of  Maracaibo  furnishes  mineral  pitch  in  abun- 
dance, used  for  calking  ships.  The  lake  is  210  by  90  miles;  and  the  in- 
habitants prefer  living  on  islands  in  the  lake  to  a residence  on  its  arid 
and  unhealthy  shores.  The  water  of  the  lake  is  fresh,  though  it  commu- 
nicates with  the  sea,  and  is  of  easy  and  safe  navigation.  The  lake  Valencia 
is  a more  attractive  sheet  of  water.  Its  banks  have  an  agreeable  tempe- 
rature from  the  luxuriant  vegetation  on  their  shores.  Being  40  miles 
long  by  one  broad,  it  receives  the  water  of  twenty  rivers,  and  has  no  visi- 
ble outlet.  Between  it  and  the  sea  is  a belt  of  mountains  six  leagues  in 
width.  The  territories  of  Carracas  are  every  where  well  watered,  and 
furnish  abundant  facilities  for  irrigation.  In  some  places  the  river 
inundates  the  country,  during  the  rainy  season.  The  northern  vallies  are 
the  most  productive,  because  there  heat  and  moisture  are  most  equally 
combined.  The  southern  parts  produce  pasture,  which  rears  cattle, 
mules  and  horses.  Cocoa,  indigo,  cotton  and  sugar  might  be  produced 
in  great  abundance.  Caraccas,  the  capital,  before  the  last  earthquake, 
contained  42,000  inhabitants.  The  valley  in  which  it  is  situated,  is  un- 
even, and  is  watered  by  four  small  rivers;  nevertheless  it  has  handsome 
streets  and  well  built  houses.  Being  on  an  elevation  of  3,000  feet,  it 
enjoys  a perpetual  spring.  La  Guayra,  15  miles  distant,  is  the  port.  The 
sea  is  here  as  boisterous,  as  the  air  is  hot  and  unhealthy.  Porto  Cavallo 
in  the  middle  of  marshes  and  an  insalubrious  air,  has  some  trade.  Valen- 
cia, half  a league  from  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  is  a flourishing  place, 
in  the  midst  of  a fertile  and  salubrious  plain.  Coro  ai^  ancient  capital,  is 
built  near  the  sea  on  a dry  and  arid  level.  Cumana  has  28,000  inhabit- 
ants, and  is  situated  on  an  arid,  flat  and  sandy  shore,  where  the  air  is  salu- 
brious, though  burning  hot.  Like  the  other  town,  it  is  always  in  dread  of 
earthquakes.  New  Barcelona  is  a dirty  town  in  the  midst  of  an  unculti- 
vated, but  fertile  country.  Maracaibo,  the  seat  of  government,  is  built 
on  a sandy  plain,  on  the  left  bank  of  the  lake  of  the  same  name,  6 
leagues  from  the  sea.  The  air  though  excessively  hot,  is  not  unhealthy. 
The  country  houses  are  at  Gibraltar,  on  the  opposite  ^shore  of  the  lake. 
At  the  upper  end  of  the  lake  is  Merida  in  the  midst  of  a well  cultivated 
district.  Truxillo,  once  a magnificent  town,  was  ravaged  by  the  bucca- 
niers.  In  the  isle  of  Margarita  is  the  town  of  Ascension,  formerly  cele- 
brated for  its  pearl  fishery;  and  still  more  for  its  abundance  and  variety 
of  fish. 

Population.  Before  the  late  revolution,  it  was  rated  at  near  a million. 
The  people  present  nearly  the  same  mixtures,  as  in  Mexico.  The  Span- 
ish immigrants  prefer  a country  of  mines  to  one  of  agriculture,  however 


SOUTH  AMERICA, 


153 


rich.  Hence  this  country  has  not  become  populous,  in  proportion  to  its 
fertility.  A small  colony  of  French  and  Irish  lead  a patriarchal  life 
under  the  shade  of  their  cocoa  trees  on  the  promontory  of  Paria.  The 
Zambos,  or  descendants  of  Indians  and  negroes,  are  the  scourge  of  some 
parts  of  this  country  by  their  numbers  and  hostility. 

Spanish  Guiana  extends  more  than  1,200  miles  from  the  mouths  of 
the  Oronoco  to  Brazil.  It  is  between  3 and  400  miles  broad.  The 
population  is  sparse.  The  missionaries,  before  the  revolution,  had  20  or 
30,000  Indians  under  them.  It  is  a very  fertile  country,  and  watered  by 
300  branches  of  the  Oronoco.  Situated  very  favorably  for  commerce, 
it  will  one  day  become  a country  of  great  importance. 

Angostura  is  the  chief  town.  In  this  important  point,  communicating 
by  so  many  navigable  rivers  both  with  the  Oronoco  and  the  Amazon,  the 
English  have  established  some  military  posts,  on  islands  at  the  moutli  of 
the  river,  where  they  cultivated  an  alliance  of  the  savages,  and  secured 
for  themselves  the  monopoly  of  the  cabinet,  and  dye  woods  of  the  country. 

On  the  upper  country  of  the  Oronoco,  between  3°  and  4°  N.  L.  is  seen 
the  astonishing  phenomenon  of  the  4 black  waters.’  The  waters  of  the 
Atabaco,  Temi,  Tuainini  and  Guiainia  is  of  a coffee  color.  Under  the 
shade  of  the  palm  forests,  it  becomes  deep  black.  In  transparent  ves- 
sels, it  shows  of  a golden  yellow,  in  which  the  image  of  the  southern  con- 
stellations is  reflected  with  great  brilliancy.  In  the  black  rivers  there  are 
no  alligators,  nor  fish,  fewer  musquetoes,  and  a cooler  and  healthier  air. 
They  are  supposed  to  derive  their  colors  from  a solution  of  carburet  of 
hydrogen  from  the  multitude  of  vegetables  that  cover  the  soil,  through 
which  they  flow. 

Llanos.  In  Guiana  and  New  Granada  are  seen  these  astonishing  de- 
serts. Over  an  extent  of  more  than  a thousand  square  leagues,  the 
burning  soil  no  where  varies  more  than  a few  inches  in  level.  The  sand, 
like  a vast  sea,  exhibits  curious  phenomena  of  refraction  and  mirage.  The 
traveller  is  guided  only  by  the  stars,  or  a solitary  palm  trunk  seen  at  an 
immense  distance.  These  plains  change  their  appearance  twice  every 
year.  At  one  time  they  are  as  bare,  as  the  Lybian  deserts ; and  at  an- 
other they  are  covered  with  a verdant  turf,  like  the  steppes  of  Tartarv. 
They  have  begun  to  rear  cattle  on  these  immense  plains,  and  notwith 
standing  the  alternate  danger  of  the  dry  season,  and  the  inundation  of 
the  rainy,  the  cattle  multiply  to  an  amazing  extent.  These  plains  are 
surrounded  by  savage  and  frightful  solitudes.  Forests  of  impenetrable 
thickness  cover  the  humid  country  between  the  Oronoco  and  the  Amazon. 
Immense  masses  of  granite  contract  the  beds  of  the  rivers.  The  forests 
and  mountains  incessantly  resound  with  the  deafening  noise  of  cataracts, 
the  roaring  of  beasts  of  prey,  and  the  hollow  howling  of  the  bearded 
Vol.  II,  " 20 


154 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


monkey,  which  prognosticates  rain.  The  alligator  stretching  himself  on 
a sand  bank,  and  the  boa,  concealing  in  the  mud  his  enormous  coils  anx- 
iously await  their  prey,  or  repose  themselves  after  carnage. 

New  Grenada.  Under  this  head  we  include  not  only  the  country 
properly  so  called,  but  the  provinces  of  Panama  and  Darien.  Quito  con- 
tains the  provinces  of  Quito,  Macas,  Quixos,  and  Juan  de  Bracamoras. 
Guyaquil  is  also  subject  to  the  same  country,  and  contains  Santa  Fe  de 
Bogota,  and  Antioquia,  Santa  Martha,  and  Carthagena,  San  Juan  de  los 
Llanos,  and  Popayan,  Raposo.  Barbacoas  and  Choco,  Beriquete,  Novita 
and  Roposo.  New  Grenada  contains  the  greatest  diversity  of  climate; 
and  is  temperate,  and  even  cold  and  frosty,  but  very  healthy  on  the  ele- 
vated lands.  The  air  is  burning,  suffocating,  and  pestilential  on  the  sea 
shore;  and  in  some  of  the  deep  vallies  of  the  interior.  At  Carthagena  and 
Guyaquil,  the  yellow  fever  is  endemic.  The  town  of  Honda,  though  ele- 
vated 900  feet  above  the  sea,  has  an  atmosphere  excessively  hot.  This 
is  on  the  river  Magdalena.  The  river  Cauca  is  obstructed  by  rapids. 
From  Honda  to  Santa  Fethe  roads  are  dangerous  through  deep  forests  of 
oak,  Melastome,  and  Cinchona.  The  unvarying  nature  of  the  climate 
in  each  belt,  the  want  of  an  agreeable  succession  of  the  seasons,  perhaps, 
also  the  frequent  volcanic  explosions  have  hindered  the  country  from  be- 
coming populous.  The  cocoa  of  Guyaquil  is  in  great  estimation.  Cy- 
press, firs,  juniper,  the  passion  flower  tree,  the  bambusas  and  the  wax 
palm  are  common.  Cotton,  tobacco,  and  sugar  are  abundant.  The  in- 
habitants make  use  of  the  expressed  juice  of  the  Uvilla  instead  of  ink. 
It  is  a blue  liquid,  more  indestructible,  than  the  best  ink  of  Europe.  Coal 
is  found  at  an  elevation  of  7,680.  Platina  is  met  with  at  Choco  and 
Barbacoas.  Choco  is  rich  in  gold  dust.  A piece  of  gold  was  found 
there,  that  weiged  25  lbs.  The  country,  also,  contains  extensive  and  rich 
veins  of  silver.  At  Muzo  in  the  valley  of  Tunca  are  the  principal  eme- 
rald mines  of  Peru.  Small  diamonds,  are  also  found  here.  Sulphuret- 
ted mercury  is  discovered  in  some  of  the  gold  mines. 

Chief  Towns.  Santa  Fe  de  Bogota  is  the  seat  of  government,  and  of  a 
university.  It  contains  30,000  inhabitants,  many  churches  and  magnifi- 
cent houses,  and  five  superb  bridges.  The  air  is  constantly  temperate. 
The  grains  of  Europe  here  produce  abundant  crops.  Near  this  place  in 
the  Rio  de  Bogota  is  the  cataract  of  Tequendama.  The  river,  before  it 
reaches  the  leap  is  270  feet  wide ; but  at  the  cascade  itself  it  narrows  to 
between  30,  or  40  feet.  But  still  there  is  presented  in  the  driest  seasons 
a surface  of  756  square  feet.  At  two  leaps  the  river  rushes  down 
530  feet.  There  is  no  where  in  the  world  another  so  large  a body  of 
water  that  has  a fall  to  compare  with  it.  Rainbows  glitter  with  the  most 
brilliant  colors.  An  immense  cloud  of  vapor  rises,  which  may  be  dis- 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


155 


tinguished  at  a distance  of  15  miles.  This  vapor,  condensed  in  mois- 
ture, conduces  to  the  exceeding  fertility  of  the  vale  of  Bogota.  The 
people  of  Santa  Fe  say,  in  describing  this  fall,  that  the  Tequendama  is 
so  high,  that  the  water  leaps  at  one  fall  from  the  cold  region  Tierra  Fria 
to  the  hot  region  Tierra  caliente.  There  is  an  astonishing  natural  bridge 
at  the  vale  of  Icononzo.  The  arch  is  47  feet  long  by  41  broad,  and  the 
bridge  is  317  feet  above  the  level  of  the  torrent,  that  has  pierced  its  way 
under  the  rocks,  probably,  by  the  agency  of  an  earthquake.  Porto  Bello 
on  the  Atlantic,  and  Panama  on  the  Pacific  were  formerly  more  flourish- 
ing towns,  than  at  present.  The  precious  metals,  that  now  find  their 
way  abroad  from  Buenos  Ayres,  used  to  be  shipped  from  these  places. 
Although  they  are  situated  on  two  oceans,  they  are  not  more  than  35 
or  40  miles  in  a right  line  apart.  The  luxuriance  of  the  vegetation 
is  surprising.  But  the  climate  is  exceedingly  insalubrious.  In  the  nar- 
rowest part  of  the  isthmus,  it  is  only  eight  leagues  from  sea  to  sea.  But 
the  rocky  and  rugged  nature  of  the  soil,  probably  interposes  insurmount- 
able obstacle  to  a canal.  Carthagena  on  the  Atlantic  is  now  one  of  the 
chief  towns.  It  has  25,000  inhabitants,  a bishop’s  see,  a university,  and 
a deep  and  safe  harbor.  The  country  is  fertile  in  the  highest  degree;  but 
the  air  exceedingly  insalubrious.  To  avoid  the  extremely  hot  air  of 
summer,  unacclirnated  persons  take  shcTcer  in  the  village  of  Turbaco, 
surrounded  by  limpid  springs,  cooled  by  the  refreshing  and  deep  shade  of 
colossal  trees,  and  900  feet  above  the  sea.  Various  splendid  trees,  plants 
and  flowers  adorn  the  vicinity;  and  not  far  from  this  place,  are  the  cele- 
brated air  volcanoes.  They  issue  from  18  or  20  volcanoes  from  20  to  25 
feet  high.  These  cones  are  filled  with  water,  and  every  18  or  20  seconds 
a vast  quantity  of  air,  and  sometimes  mud  is  ejected  with  great  force. 
The  air  is  found  to  be  azotic  gas  of  a pure  quality.  Santa  Martha  has  an 
excellent  harbor,  and  a healthy  situation.  The  district,  to  which  it  be- 
longs, is  fertile,  and  has  mines  of  gold  and  silver,  and  salt  springs.  Rio 
de  la  Hacha  was  formerly  enriched  by  being  the  chief  seat  of  the  pearl 
fishery.  Popayan  is  an  important  town  containing  20,000  inhabitants, 
chiefly  mulattoes.  Near  it  rise  two  volcanoes  covered  with  snow.  Pasto 
is  a town  situated  at  the  foot  of  a terrible  volcano,  and  surrounded 
by  forests  and  marshes.  It  is  a high  table  plain  in  a region  almost  too 
elevated  and  cold  for  vegetation.  The  inhabitants  are  surrounded  by  ever 
steaming  sulphur  pits,  and  can  raise  little  beside  potatoes.  When  this 
crop  fails,  they  eat  the  trunk  of  a small  tree  called  Achupallo.  The  bear  of 
the  Andes  feeds  upon  the  same,  and  the  inhabitants  and  the  bears  there 
come  in  conflict  for  their  food.5’ 

The  province  of  Choeo  would  be  richer  in  the  fertility  of  its  hills,  and 
the  excellence  of  its  cocoa,  than  its  mine.?,  if  human  industry  were  not 


156 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


interdicted  by  its  cloudy  and  burning  climate.  Dark  forests,  thick  clouds, 
howling  winds  the  roar  of  thunder,  perpetual  torrents  dashing  between 
bristling  rocks,  the  hollow  groans  of  the  waves,  tom  by  tempests,  the 
howling  of  wolves,  the  roaring  of  tigers,  the  hissing  of  enormous  snakes, 
crawling  under  the  humid  grass  of  the  marshes,  and  with  their  vast  coils 
encircling  the  trunks  of  the  trees,  innumerable  insects,  engendered  by 
the  heat  and  stagnant  air — Such  is  the  picture,  which  M.  Marmontel 
draws  of  this  country.  Gorgona  and  the  Pearl  islands  in  the  bay  of 
Choco  are  more  inhabitable. 

Quito,  the  ancient  capital  of  the  second  Peruvian  monarchy  is  cele- 
brated for  its  manufactures.  It  is  situated  nearly  10,000  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  and  too  high  for  the  region  of  perpetual  spring.  The 
atmosphere  is  chilly  and  lowering,  and  the  climate  rather  severe.  In  1797, 
an  earthquake  overwhelmed  this  province  and  in  a moment  destroyed 
40,000  people.  Since  that  time  earthquakes  have  been  continually  re- 
peated. Yet  the  population,  60  or  70,000  in  number,  breathes  gaiety, 
luxury  and  pleasure  on  this  earth  heaving  under  their  feet. 

Guyaquil  is  a sea  port,  with  a dock-yard  and  abundance  of  ship  tim- 
ber in  its  vicinity.  It  contains  18  or  20,000  inhabitants,  and  is  a port  of 
interchange  between  the  productions  of  Mexico,  and  those  of  Chili  and 
Peru. 

The  provinces  of  Quixos  and  Macas  in  2°  S.  L.  have  their  winter 
from  April  to  September.  The  vast  province  of  Maynas  extends  along 
the  Amazon.  It  contains  a very  few  Spanish  establishments — the  prin- 
cipal one  is  San  Joaquin  de  Omaguas. 

Ibarra,  between  50  and  60  miles  from  Quito,  contains  12,000  inhabi- 
tants with  considerable  manufactories.  Otavola,  S.  W.  of  this  place^ 
contains  from  18  to  20,000  inhabitants.  The  district  of  Quito  is  noted 
for  its  large  caves,  the  excellence  of  its  cocoa,  the  variety  and  beauty  of 
its  cabinet  woods,  and  the  terribly  efficacious  poison  of  the  Manzanillo 
tree,  under  which,  if  a person  sleep,  sickness  and  death  would  ensue  m 
consequence.  The  caoban  is  a beautiful  species  of  mahogany.  The 
ebony  is  a very  large  tree  and  yields  a wood  of  a deep  black,  while  the 
porsilde  nearly  resembles  ivory.  The  Guayacan  is  a green  wood.  The 
bark  of  the  Caoutchouc  is  used  for  mattrasses,  curtains  or  sails.  There 
is  a wood,  that  petrifies  in  a few  months,  to  a degree  of  hardness,  that,  it 
is  asserted,  pieces  of  it  are  used  for  gun  flints.  There  are  bees  here, 
which  make  their  nests  under  ground,  from  which  great  quantities  of  wax 
are  extracted.  Fine  thread  is  made  in  great  quantities  from  the  leaf  of 
the  Aloe.  There  is,  also,  a tree  from  which  a rich  purple  dye  is  extracted. 
There  is,  probably,  no  place  on  the  earth  where  the  vegetable  kingdom  is 
richer  than  in  Quito. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


157 


Volcanoes.  Pinchina  is,  probably,  the  greatest  volcano  on  the  globe. 
The  mouth  of  the  crater  is  circular,  and  nearly  a league  in  circumference. 
The  interior,  when  not  on  fire,  is  deep  black.  The  tops  of  several 
mountains  are  seen  inside  of  it.  Their  summits  are  300  fathoms  deep 
in  the  centre.  The  crater  is  probably  on  a level  with  the  city  of  Quito. 
Cotopaxi  is  the  highest  of  the  volcanoes  of  the  Andes,  and  the  most  de- 
structive in  its  eruptions.  In  1758  flames  arose  2,700  feet  above  its 
summit.  The  roaring  was  heard  at  a town  on  the  Magdalena,  a distance 
of  600  miles.  The  sky  continued  as  dark  as  night,  after  noon  day.  An- 
other eruption  occasioned  destructive  torrents  of  melted  snow.  M.  Hum- 
boldt heard  the  roarings  of  this  volcano,  150  miles  in  a right  line,  like 
the  repeated  discharges  of  artillery. 

The  group  of  the  Gallipagos,  of  which  22  islands  are  known,  is  situa- 
ted 5 or  600  miles  from  this  coast.  They  are  directly  beneath  the  equa- 
tor, and  contain  volcanic  peaks.  The  Cactus  and  Aloe  cover  their  sides, 
and  a deep  and  black  mould  furnishes  the  nutriment  of  large  trees. 
Flamingoes  and  turtle  doves  fill  the  air,  and  enormous  turtles  cover  the 
shore.  No  trace  of  mortal  foot,  save  that  of  the  crews  of  ships  occasion- 
ally touching  them,  seems  ever  to  have  left  its  print  on  the  soil. 

Peru.  This  country  is  penetrated  by  two  chains  of  the  Andes  nearly 
parallel  to  each  other.  The  one  is  called  the  Cordillera  of  the  coast.  The 
other  is  the  central  chain.  Lower  Peru  is  situated  between  the  coast 
Cordillera  and  the  sea,  sloping  from  the  one  line  to  the  other.  The  soil 
suffers  from  excessive  aridity.  Neither  rain  or  thunder  are  known.  The 
only  fertile  lands  are  those  capable  of  irrigation.  Nothing  can  exceed 
the  fertility  and  beauty  of  such  plains.  The  climate  is  remarkable  for 
its  mildness.  The  mercury  seldom  falls  below  60°,  and  seldom  rises 
above  86°. 

Upper  Peru  is  between  these  two  ridges.  It  is  covered  with  rocks 
and  mountains,  with  some  fertile  vallies.  This  region  contains  the 
richest  veins  of  silver  in  the  world.  The  longevity  of  the  inhabitants 
of  this  region  is  proverbial. 

Interior  Peru  slopes  in  an  eastern  direction  towards  the  banks  of  the 
Ucayal,  and  Maranon.  The  inhabitants  denominate  it  Montana  Reale. 
This  country  is  as  humid,  as  the  other  division  is  dry . The  forests  are 
charmingly  verdant,  but  subject  to  the  draw  back  of  inundations,  marsh- 
es, noxious  reptiles,  and  innumerable  insects.  Peru  is  thinly  peopled, 
and  not  much  adapted  to  become  an  agricultural  country.  There  are 
neither  roads  nor  canals.  All  conveyance  is  by  packing  on  mules . Hence 
the  fragrant  gums,  the  medicinal  plants,  the  precious  w'oods,  the  musk  nut, 
and  the  Peruvian  cinnamon,  the  oil,  cocoa,  cotton,  and  silk  will  not  pay 
the  expense  of  transporting  them  to  the  coast.  So  much  Cinchona  has 


158 


SOUTH  AMERICA 


been  exported,  however,  as  to  have  given  the  article  the  name  of  Peruvi- 
an bark. 

But  it  is  chiefly  for  its  precious  metals,  that  Peru  is  celebrated;  abound- 
ing in  them  to  such  a degree,  as  to  he  the  figurative  term  for  wealth.  A 
projecting  portion  of  Mount  Ilimani  gave  way  near  La  Paz,  and  a piece 
of  gold  was  detached  from  it,  that  weighed  50  lbs.  Most  of  the  gold 
obtained  at  present  is  by  washing  the  sands.  The  richest  silver  mines 
are  those  of  Pasco,  near  Laurichocha.  They  furnish,  annually,  two  mil- 
lions of  dollars.  They  are  elevated  over  18,000  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  The  next  richest  mines  are  those  of  Chota,  Fuentestiana,  Cam- 
olacha,  and  Pumpa  de  Navar. 

Guanca  Velica,  not  far  S.  W.  from  Lima,  yields  quicksilver.  Tin,  lead 
and  copper  mines  abound.  None,  but  the  wretched  Indians,  can  support 
working  in  these  cold,  damp  mines,  on  such  miserable  provisions,  as  the 
snowy  regions  furnish.  The  business  of  mining  is  shared  between  three 
classes,  the  speculator es,  the  habilitadores , and  the  rescatiri.  The  ex- 
ports of  Peru  consist  of  gold,  silver,  wine,  brandy,  pimento,  cinchona, 
salt,  vicunna  wool,  and  coarse  woollen  goods. 

Towns.  Lima  is  situated  on  the  broad  and  fertile  vale  of  the  Rimac, 
and  commands  a view  of  the  whole  vale  with  the  Andes  in  the  distance* 
The  Rimac  flows  beneath  its  walls.  The  form  of  the  city  is  triangular, 
and  it  extends  two  miles  in  length,  It  is  surrounded  with  walls  fortified 
with  bastions.  The  streets  are  clean,  well  paved,  and  cross  each  other 
at  right  angles.  They  are  watered,  and  cleansed  by  aqueducts  from 
the  river.  There  are  855  streets.  The  houses  of  the  rich  have  gardens 
attached  to  them,  watered  by  canals  from  the  Rimac.  It  is  the  seat  of 
an  university,  and  has  many  churches,  convents  and  hospitals.  It  is  the 
seat  of  government,  and  the  chief  tribunals.  The  prison,  fhe  Archbish- 
op’s Palace  and  Cathedral  form  the  greater  part  of  the  side  of  the  great 
square.  They  now7  have  coffee  houses  and  a theatre.  But  the  people 
are  still  fond  of  bull  fights  and  gambling,  and  superstition,  bigotry  and 
vice  prevail.  The  inhabitants  are  computed  at  54,000. 

Cuzco  is  nearly  equal  in  extent  to  Lima.  It  contains  32,000  inhabi- 
tants, three  fourths  of  Indian  extract.  Several  of  the  ancient  Peruvian 
monuments  remain.  The  stones  in  one  of  these  buildings  are  so  immense, 
and  so  well  joined,  as  to  excite  astonishment,  how  the  work  could  have 
been  done  by  a people,  not  acquainted  with  masonry.  The  better  build- 
ings are  of  stone,  among  which  churches  and  convents  are  most  conspi- 
cuous. The  Dominican  monastery  occupies  the  site  of  the  ancient 
temple  of  the  sun.  The  residence  of  the  virgins  of  the  sun  has  been 
converted  into  a dwelling  for  the  nuns  of  Cuzco.  Priera  and  Lambay- 
eque  are  considerable  towns.  Each  contains  8 or  9,000  inhabitants. 


SOUTH  AMERICA  • 


159 


Canetis,  Parta,  and  Arica  are,  also,  places  of  some  importance.  At  Cax- 
amarca  in  upper  Peru  are  shown  the  ruins  of  the  palaces,  where  the  last 
of  the  Incas  was  strangled  by  order  of  Pizarro.  The  population  exceeds 
12,000.  Huanco,  Pasco,  Front  era,  Atanjauja  and  Guanca  Yelica  are 
towns  of  importance  in  Upper  Peru.  The  latter  town  is  elevated  more 
than  12,000  feet  above  the  sea;  and  though  near  the  equator,  rain,  snow 
and  sleet  frequently  fall  in  the  same  day.  Santa  Barbara  is  still  higher, 
being  between  14  and  15,009  feet  high.  The  materials  for  building  in 
this  town  are  unlike  those  of  any  other.  The  water  of  a warm  spring  is 
cooled;  and  the  calcareous  matter,  held  in  solution,  fills  during  the  pro- 
cess. The  sediment  is  put  into  vases,  which  shape  it,  and  it  gradually 
hardens  into  stone.  Guamarga  has  26,000  inhabitants,  and  a favorable 
position,  but  is  unhealthy.  The  inhabitants  of  Condomora  are  affected, 
during  thunder  storms  with  sensations,  as  if  stung  by  insects,  produced, 
probably,  by  a high  state  of  electricity.  Arequipa  is  situated  6 or  700 
miles  S.  E.  of  Lima;  it  is  a large  and  well  built  city,  watered  by  the 
Chile,  with  24,000  inhabitants.  The  lake  Titiaca  is  240  miles  in 
circumference,  and  subject  to  violent  storms,  that  rush  down  from  the 
Andes. 

La  Plata  in  Southern  Peru,  has  its  name  from  a silver  mine  near  it.  It 
contains  15,000  inhabitants.  La  Paz  has  a mild  and  salubrious  climate, 
with  snowy  mountains  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  Its  population  is  num- 
bered at  20,000. 

Potosi,  famous  for  its  silver  mines,  once  contained  160,000  souls.  The 
population  is  now  dwindled  to  30,000.  The  discovery  of  these  rich 
mines  is  described  by  tradition,  as  follows.  An  Indian  named  Diego 
Fluasco  pursued  a vicunna  on  the  mountain  hard  by.  To  prevent  himself 
from  falling,  he  seized  a shrub.  It  gave  w7ay  with  a quantity  of  turf  at- 
tached, and  disclosed  to  the  astonished  Indian  a large  mass  of  silver.  He 
entrusted  the  secret  to  a slave,  who  disclosed  it.  Oropesa  is  the  chief 
town  of  a district,  called  from  its  fertility  the  granary  of  Peru.  Farija 
is  the  capital  of  a country  abounding  in  grain  and  wine.  Atocama  is  a 
small  town  capital  of  a province  of  the  same  name.  Santa  Cruz  de  la 
Sierra  is  a considerable  town  and  capital  of  a large  province  of  the  same 
name. 

We  have  no  space  for  details  of  the  empire  of  the  Peruvians  over- 
thrown by  Pizarro.  Mango  Capac,  according  to  their  traditions,  was 
the  founder  of  their  worship  and  civil  polity.  They,  certainly,  had 
reached  very  considerable  degrees  of  civilization,  before  the  arrival  of  the 
Spaniards.  They  had  built  a road  from  Quito  to  Cuzco  nearly  1509 
miles.  Another  of  equal  length,  in  the  lowTer  parts  of  the  country,  ex- 
tended from  the  centre. to  the  remotest  parts  of  the  empire.  The  ascent 


160 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


of  hills  was  graduated  by  mounds.  Granaries  were  built  at  equal  dis- 
tances, and  charitable  houses  were  ever  open  to  the  weary  traveller.  Tem- 
ples, fortresses  and  canals  varied  and  improved  the  aspect  of  the  country. 
Some  ancient  monuments  were  adorned  with  gold  to  the  value  of  several 
million  dollars.  Under  the  empire  of  the  Spanish,  they  have  become 
indolent,  and  addicted  to  drunkenness;  but  rigid  observers  of  the  rules 
and  ceremonies  of  the  Romish  church.  Since  the  conquest  of  Peru,  they 
have  much  decreased  in  numbers.  Intoxication  has  been  exceedingly 
fatal  among  them.  And  the  small  pox  formerly  carried  off  immense 
numbers,  before  the  introduction  of  vaccination.  The  most  recent  in- 
formation, before  the  revolution,  gave  to  Peru,  in  all  its  extent,  including 
Quito,  Tucuman  and  Buenos  Ayres,  3,500,000  souls.  As  instances  of 
the  extreme  longevity  in  this  country,  there  were  eight  individuals  in 
Oaxamarca,  the  youngest  of  whom  was  114,  and  the  eldest  147  years. 
A Spanish  creole  deceased,  aged  144  years,  and  seven  months.  The 
various  savage  tribes,  that  roam  over  the  more  unsettled  parts  of  these 
vast  countries,  like  the  Indians  of  North  America,  have  various  langua- 
ges and  customs.  They  generally  admit  the  immortality  of  the  soul, 
and  believe  in  a metempsychosis,  and  receive  with  strong  incredulity  the 
doctrine  of  eternal  punishment  in  hell. 

The  Sustillo,  or  paper  insect  of  the  Pampantico  and  the  banks  of  the 
upper  Uallaga  is  a great  curiosity.  It  lives  exclusively  on  the  leaves  of 
the  Paco!.  The  paper  which  they  make,  varies  according  to  the  quantity 
and  quality  of  their  food.  A yard  and  a half  of  this  paper  was  carried 
to  Madrid.  It  is  superior  in  thickness  and  durability  to  the  best  sort, 
that  is  made  in  China.  A Jesuit  informs,  that  he  had  written  several 
letters  on  this  kind  of  paper.  Chili,  Paraguay,  Terra  Magellanica,  or 
Patagonia. 

Precipices  and  snow-covered  mountains  form  a boundary  between 
Chili  and  Peru.  The  climate  is  mild  and  salubrious;  the  natives  health- 
ful and  robust.  The  coast  consists  of  a narrow  beach,  abruptly  termi- 
nated by  lofty  hills.  Their  ridges  have  a fertile  table  plain,  watered  by 
many  streams  and  covered,  occasionally  with  orchards,  vineyards  and 
meadows.  However  hot  the  days,  the  nights  are  delightfully  cool.  Rain 
seldom  falls,  except  between  July  and  August;  and  the  number  of  days, 
in  which  it  falls,  does  not  exceed  twenty  in  a year.  In  the  central  parts 
of  Chili,  thunder  showers  happen  in  the  winter,  and  lightning  is  remarka- 
bly vivid  and  terrific.  Like  Peru,  it  is  subject  to  earthquakes,  which 
counterbalance  its  fertility  and  fine  climate.  The  volcanoes  of  the  An- 
des, burning  in  the  midst  of  snows,  heighten  the  sublimity  of  the  natural 
scenery.  Gold  and  silver  mines  are  discovered  in  the  Andes.  There 
are  whole  hills  of  magnetic  iron  ore.  Vegetation  is  of  surprising  grandeur’ 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


161 


The  mountain  forests  are  full  of  lofty  trees.  All  the  fruits  of  Europe 
and  a great  many  aromatic  shrubs  grow  in  the  vallies.  In  no  country  in 
America  has  the  culture  of  the  grape  ever  succeeded  so  well.  There  are 
incredible  numbers  of  odoriferous  shrubs  and  plants;  and  the  cedars  of 
the  Andes  are  compared  to  those  of  Lebanon.  Every  thing  of  wood  that 
belonged  to  a chapel  60  feet  long,  was  made  from  one  colossal  tree.  The 
olive  tree  grows  nine  feet  in  circumference.  The  apples  are  remarkable 
for  their  size,  and  of  the  great  number  of  kinds  of  peaches,  one  sort 
weighs  16  ounces.  There  are  also  many  plants  and  shrubs,  useful  in 
dying. 

Animals.  Molina  describes  36  classes  of  quadrupeds,  that  are  indige- 
nous to  this  country. 

Towns.  The  province  of  Copiapo  is  100  leagues  in  extent.  Copiapo, 
12  leagues  from  the  sea,  has  a population  of  12,000.  The  streets  of 
Coquimbo  are  shaded  with  myrtle  trees.  Quillota  is  in  a fertile  valley  on 
the  banks  of  the  Aconcagua.  Valparaiso  is  the  chief  town.  It  is  a flour- 
ishing and  rich  place.  Santiago  has  wide  and  well  paved  streets.  There 
are  a number  of  respectable  public  buildings.  Before  the  revolution,  the 
inhabitants  amounted  to  50,000.  They  arte  gay  and  hospitable;  there,  as 
elsewhere  in  South  America,  music  and  dancing  are  the  favorite  amuse- 
ments. Petrorca,  celebrated  for  its  gold  mines,  is  situated  above  the  re- 
gion of  perpetual  snow.  Talca  is  the  chief  town  of  a district  abounding 
in  wi^ie,  corn  and  cattle.  In  the  province  of  Purchacay  the  fertility  in 
corn  and  wine  is  very  great.  A fat  ox  is  sold  for  four  crowns;  and  the 
price  of  a sheep  is  less  than  a dollar.  New  Conception  is  in  the  valley 
of  Mocha.  The  population  exceeds  12,000.  The  island  of  Chiloe  is 
the  chief  of  a group  of  47.  The  population  of  the  whole  island  is  25,000. 
The  capital  is  San  J uan  de  Castro.  The  whole  group  is  subject  to  earth- 
quakes. The  two  islands  of  Juan  Fernandez  are  800  miles  from  the 
coast  of  Chili.  The  chief  has  mountains,  woods  and  fertile  vallies  and 
is  a resting  place  for  ships.  Two  persons,  .whose  adventures  gave  rise 
to  the  novel  of  Bobinson  Crusoe,  resided  on  one  of  them.  Alexander 
Selkirk,  being  left  there  by  his  fellow  sailors,  subsisted  five  years  by 
hunting.  The  other,  a Musquito  Indian,  was  abandoned  by  buccanneers. 

Cuyo  is  separated  from  the  rest  of  the  country  by  the  Andes,  and  is 
for  that  reason  called  Transmontano.  It  is  only  recently,  that  its  mines 
of  silver  and  gold  have  been  wrought.  It  is  not  a very  fertile  country. 
Some  parts  are  parched  with  heat,  and  others  blasted  with  cold.  A re- 
markable species  of  cocoa  palm  is  not  uncommon  in  the  vallies.  The 
centre  of  its  trunk  is  so  soft,  that  the  inhabitants  use  it  for  making  cloth, 
which,  if  it  be  not  very  fine,  is  at  least  strong  and  flexible. 

Vol.  II.  21 


162 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


The  province  of  Tucuman,  a country  little  frequented,  lies  to  the 
north  east;  of  Cuyo.  The  Andes  penetrate  it  in  the  north,  and  the  rest  is 
one  immense  plain.  Many  of  the  rivers,  that  water  the  country,  spread 
into  lagoons,  and  are  lost.  The  country  abounds  in  fossil  salt.  Salt 
petre  is  abundantly  collected  on  the  plains.  The  climate  is  considered 
salubrious.  The  forests  abound  with  wild  animals  and  swarms  of  wild 
bees.  The  Aramos  weaves  on  the  trees  a beautiful  silver  colored  silk. 
The  Quebracho  tree  is  so  hard,  that  the  axe  sometimes  breaks  in  cutting 
it.  The  products  are  com,  wine  and  cattle.  One  valley  fattens  60,000 
mules  for  the  fair.  The  chief  town  is  Cordova.  San  Felipe  and  Jujui 
are  inconsiderable  places.  A few  villages  are.  scattered  over  these  im- 
mense plains.  The  people  live  a moral  and  arcadian  life.  . 

The  whole  country,  watered  by  the  La  Plata,  has  generally  been  called 
Paraguay.  The  vallies  of  Chaco  west  of  that  river  are  impregnated  with 
salt  and  nitre.  These  plains  are  sometimes  covered  with  moving  sands, 
or  rendered  unwholesome  by  marshes,  where  the  smaller  rivers  are  lost. 
The  Uraguay  flows  down  lofty  and  steep  mountains,  before  it  reaches 
the  sea.  It  is  more  than  3 miles  broad  400  miles  from  the  sea.  The 
country,  to  which  Buenos  Ayres  is  central,  is  fertile,  but  almost  destitute 
of  wood.  Its  sandy  soil  is  mixed  with  a rich,  black  mould.  To  the  south 
the  pampas  are  boundless  to  the  vision.  Not  a shrub,  not  a marine 
plant  is  seen,  in  travelling  long  distances.  In  1530,  horses  and  oxen 
were  imported  into  the  country.  They  now  cover  the  plains  in  a wild 
state.  Sometimes  10,000  are  seen  in  a single  herd.  The  horses  are  dark 
sorrel,  easily  broken,  and  no  ways  inferior  to  the  common  horse.  The 
oxen  and  cattle  are  of  a number  of  varieties,  and  are  as  useful  to  the 
inhabitants,  as  camels  to  Arabs,  or  reindeer  to  the  Laplanders.  They 
supply  almost  every  thing,  in  the  circle  of  their  wants.  Dragon’s  blood, 
cinchona,  nux  vomica,  and  vanilla  are  common  productions  of  the  coun- 
try. The  pomegranate,  peach,  fig,  orange,  and  a variety  of  palms  flourish. 
The  matte,  or  paraguay  te^,  is  made  from  the  leaves  of  a species  of 
ilex.  If  the  laborers  are  not  supplied  with  this  tea,  they  refuse  to 
work  the  mines.  Paraguay  tea  is  more  used  in  those  countries  than 
Chinese  in  England.  Two  million  dollars  worth  are  sold  in  South 
America.  An  infusion  of  the  leaves  and  twigs  is  drunk  through  a glass 
or  silver  tube.  Different  kinds  of  apes  are  seen  in  the  woods.  The 
Armadillo  burrows  in  the  forests.  The  guazou  is  a new  species  of  wild 
deer.  The  Jaguar,  Felis  Pardalis,  and  the  Erva  aie  species  of  the  tiger 
cat  seen  here. 

Towns,  There  no  large  towns  in  Paraguay.  Ascension  is  on  the  east- 
ern bank  of  the  Paraguay,  18  miles  from  the  first  mouth  of  the  Pilcomayo. 
The  population  may  amount  to  6 or  8000  inhabitants.  Curaguaty  and 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


163 


Neembuco  contain,  the  one  2,250,  and  the  other  1,800. souls.  The  par- 
ishes consist,  for  the  most  part,  of  country  houses  in  the  vicinity  of  a 
church  or  chapel.  In  the  year  1804,  the  population  was  less  than  100,000 
souls.  The  government  is  divided  into  three  districts.  The  -first  is  that 
of  Corientes,  and  the  missions  between  the  Parana  and  Uruguay.  The 
second  Uraguay  between  that  river  and  the  Rio  Negro  and  the  ocean. 
The  vegetable  productions  oh  all  these  colonies  are  valuable.  Sugar 
succeeds  remarkably.  Ship  timber,  dye  woods  and  the  vegetables  com- 
mon in  the  Brazils,  are  found  here.  The  population  has  been  calculated 
from  50  to  60,000,  including  the  civilized  Indians  and  savages.  The 
Guaranis  extended  their  settlements.'!©  these  remote  regions.  . The  Char- 
ruas  long  and  bravely  defended  the  banks  of  the  La  Plata  against  the 
Europeans.  They  are  a silent  stern  people,  who  do  not  practise  the  uni- 
versal Indian  amusement  of  dancing. 

Towns . Monte  Video  has  its  name  from  a mountain  near  the  town.  It 
is  situated  on  the  La  Plata,  sixty  miles  from  its  mouth.  The  population 
is,  perhaps,  20,000.  Maldonado,  is  a place  of  some  importance  on  the 
same  side  of  the  river. 

Missions.  The  catholic  missions  of  Paraguay  have  been  the  theme 
of  eloquence,  of  history  and  song.  The  Jesuits  were  certainly  enlight- 
ened and  humane  ; and  no  parallel  to  their  missionary  success  is  recorded 
in  history.  On  these  beautiful,  but  remote  and  unfrequented  plains  they 
had  gathered  a hundred  thousand  from  these  ignorant,  wandering  and 
fierce  tribes,  who  lived  under  their  sway,  paying  them  a homage  bordering 
on  adoration.  They  were  baptized,  learned  the  decalogue,  and  a form 
of  prayer.  They  spun  and  wove  the  cloth,  they  wore.  But  the  Jesuits 
were  banished.  Part  of  their  country  was  ceded  to  the.  Portuguese.  They 
are  now  reduced  to  less  than  half  their  former  number. 

Towns.  Buenos  Ayres  was  so  named  on  account  of  the  salubrity  of 
its  climate.  It  is  on  a plain,  on  the  south  bank  of  the  La  Plata  210 
miles  from  its  mouth.  The  town  is  fortified,  and  the  streets  broad  and 
well  paved.  But  the  harbor  road  is  exposed  to  the  winds,  and  full  of 
rocks  and  shallows.  Meats,  are  very  cheap,  though  living  is  not  so.  Two 
fowls  cost  as  much  as  an  ox.  This  town  is  the  great  outlet  from  the 
interior;  and  of  the  produce  of  Chili  and  Peru.  The  population  amounts 
to  60,000  souls.  It  has  been  computed,  that  the  shepherds  of  these 
plains  tend  twelve  millions  of  oxen.  But  in  this  delicious  climate,  and 
on  this  luxuriant  soil,  the  phople  degenerate  to  demi-savages,  and  are 
ignorant,  indolent  and  miserable.  They  live  in  mud  cottages,  and  gam- 
ing is  their  predominant  passion.  A pasturage  of  five  square  leagues 
is  not  thought  a large  pasture  farm.  They  are  always  on  horse-back,  and 
are  strong  and  healthy,  attaining  often  to  extreme  old  age.  They  are 


\ 

\ 


164 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


brave,  and  fearless  of  danger,  and  reckless  of  life.  Often  they  form 
themselves  into  guerrilla  bands  of 'banditti,  and  subsist  by  plunder, 
carrying  off  the  women  from  Buenos  Ayres,  who  frequently  show  no  dis- 
position to  return.  The  Guachos  of  Buenos  Ayres  and  the  Guasos  of 
Chili  make  admirable  soldiers;*  and  when  led  by  able  officers,  no  Euro- 
peans can  withstand  them.  At  Mendoza  there  are  extensive  vineyards, 
where  excellent  wTine  is  made.  The  population  is  rated  at  13,000.  San 
Juan  at  8,000,  San  Luis  at  2,500,  and ‘Cordova  at  10,000.  The  country 
south  of  Valdivia  and  Buenos  Ayres  is  thinly  peopled  by  independent 
tribes.  The  country  between  Biobio  and  Valdivia,  in  the  fertility  of  its 
soil,  the  abundance  of  its  springs,  and  the  temperature  of  its  climate,  is 
even  more  delightful,  than  that  of  Chili.  The  river  Biobio  rises  in  the 
Cordillera,  and  enters  the  sea  six  miles  west  of  Conception.  It  is  a wide 
and  deep  stream.  The  Araucanian  Indians,  who  possess  these  countries, 
have  remained  invincible  and  independent.  The  Spanish  have  even  cel- 
ebrated their  heroism  in  Epic  poems.  The  province  of  Tuya  is  situated 
south  of  Buenos  Ayres,  between  the  two  rivers  Saladillo  and  Hucuque. 
It  is  covered  with  marshes  and  small  lakes.  It  is  probable,  that  the  pam- 
pas extend  from  Tucuman  to  40°  S.  L.  The  Colorado  and  Negro  rise 
in  the  Chilian  Andes,  and  flow  through  these  vast  and  unknown  regions. 
The  Indians  are  as  expert  horsemen,  as  the  Tartars.  The  Comarca  De- 
serta  is  placed  on  the  Spanish  maps  from  40°  to  45°  S.  L. 

Patagonia.  It  seems  now  to  be  generally  admitted,  that  the  Indians, 
who  inhabit  the  storm  beaten  shores  of  Patagonia,  are  of  gigantic  size. 
Their  mean  height,  it  is  said,  varies  from  six  to  seven  feet.  They  have 
had  little  communication  with  other  people,  and  have  adhered  to  their 
immemorial  customs,  and  rude  fare.  The  climate  of  Patagonia  is  more 
rude  and  stormy,  than  in  the  same  latitudes  north  of  the  equator.  Three 
vast  oceans  detach  it  from  the  rest  of  the  world.  Winds  and  opposite 
currents  here  meet  in  conflict.  It  is  traversed  by  a broad  belt  of  moun- 
tains. The  atmosphere  on  the  east  of  this  belt  is  unclouded  and  serene, 
and  the  soil  generally  sterile.  West  of  them,  the  country  is  covered  with 
forests,  and  subject  to  incessant  rains.  Birches  and  other  trees  of  north- 
ern climates  are  common.  Herds  of  wild  oxen  are  seen  in  the  interior. 
The  Armadillo  and  a species  of  Jaguar  have  been  observed  on  the  coast. 

Straits  of  Magellan.  They  were  discovered  by  a navigator,  whose 
name  they  bear,  in  1519.  The  length  of  the  strait  is  450  miles,  and  the 
breadth  varies  from  two  to  fifteen  leagues.  The  country  near  Port  Fam- 
ine on  these  straits,  notwithstanding  its  ill  omened  name,  abounds  in 
game,  and  produces  different  sorts  of  fruit.  Lofty  trees  are  not  uncom- 
mon. The  Archipelago  of  Toledo  is  situated  farther  to  the  north,  and 
the  largest  island  upon  it  is  Madre  de  Dios.  To  the  south  of  Patagonia, 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


165 


there  is  a number  of  cold,  barren  and  mountainous  islands;  Volcanoes, 
which  cannot  melt,  brighten,  and  illumine  the  perpetual  snow  in  these 
dismal  regions.  The  country  on  the  southern  shores  of  the  strait,  was 
called  Terra  del  Fuego,  from  the  circumstance,  that  the  Spanish  when 
they  discovered  the  country  saw  fires  on  its  shores.  Narrow  channels, 
strong  currents  and  boisterous  winds  render  it  dangerous  to  enter  this 
desolate  labyrinth.  Phoci  Sport  in  the  bays,  or  repose’ their  unwieldy 
bodies  in  the  sand.  Flocks  of  penguins  and  other  antarctic  fowls  consort 
here.  Most  ships  now  double  Cape  Horn,  as  affording  an  easier  and 
safer  passage  to  the  Pacific. 

Towards  the  Atlantic  ocean,  a rich  verdure  decks  the  vallies,  and  use- 
ful animals  are  found  in  the  woods  and  pastures.  The  Indians  are  so 
excessively  dirty,  that  travellers  can  with  difficulty  distingush  the  color 
of  their  skin.  The  Falkland  islands  are  three  hundred  miles  eastward 
of  these  straits.  They  are  destitute  of  trees,  but  covered  with  a long 
grass,  in  which  bask  the  sea  lions,  sea  calves  and  sea  wolves.  The 
Spaniards  left  cattle  there,  which  increased  rapidly.  Georgia,  situated 
1,200  miles  from  Cape  Horn,  is  a dreary  and  frozen  country.  New 
South  Shetland,  and  another  chain  of  islands  in  62°  S.  L.  were  discov- 
ered in  1820.  The  ground  is  sterile,  and  the  hills  and  rocks  covered 
with  snow.  The  sea  abounds  with  seals,  and  other  animals  common  to 
the  Atlantic  regions. 

History . The  regime  of  the  Spaniards  in  this  vast  country  was  ex- 
ceedingly rigid  and  oppressive.  Trading  with  foreigners  was  punished 
with  death.  No  native  born  Americans  were  entrusted  with  any  places 
of  trust  or  importance.  Individuals  were  imprisoned  for  instructing  the 
poor.  A viceroy  gave  offence,  by  establishing  a naval  school.  Whole 
tribes  of  Indians  perished  by  working  in  the  mines.  The  troubles  in 
old  Spain  under  the  regime  of  Bonaparte  first  roused  the  inhabitants  of 
Spanish  America  to  a sense  of  their  condition  and  their  strength.  A se- 
dition broke  out  in  Venezuela  in  1797.  The  authority  of  Bonaparte,  or 
his  brother,  was  never  recognized.  The  independence  of  that  state 
was  declared  in  Tucuman  in  1816.  The  South  American  countries 
had  long  ancl  severe^struggles  with  the  royalists.  In  ISIS  the  best  troops 
of  Spain  were  annihilated  by  San  Martin  on  the  plains  of  Maipo.  The 
freedom  of  South  America  has  been  dated  from  that  victory.  The  rights 
of  the  people  were  purchased  by  blood,  toil,  exposure  and  sacrifices  cf 
property,  and  of  every  kind.  Slavery,  after  a limited  period,  is  to  cease. 
The  mila  and  tribute  money  are,  also,  abolished.  Liberty  of  the  press 
was  enacted.  Public  measures  have  been  adopted  for  the  advancement 
of  a general  system  of  common  school  education.  The  censorship  of  the 
press  has  been  abolished.  The  New  Testament,  in  Spanish  has  been  dis- 


166 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


tributed  among- tbs  people.  There  can  be  no  more  arbitrary  and  illegal 
imprisonments,  nor  opening  of  letters,  nor  violation  of  the  private  sanctu- 
ary of  the  dwelling  house.  Monopolies  are  abolished,  and  trial  by  jury 
will,  probably  soon  be  adopted;  and  it  is  hoped,  that  religious  freedom 
will  shortly  make  apart  of  their  institutions. 

Government.  The  electors  are  chosen  by  the  people  on  a fixed  ratio 
of  the  population,  and  the  members  of  Congress  are  taken  from  the  elec- 
toral assemblies.  The  legislative  forms,  bodies,  officers  and  chiefs  are 
modelled  much  after  the  pattern  of  the  United  States.  Bolivar,  who  was 
long  the  master  spirit  of  Spanish  South  America,  was  styled  Liberador, 
and  the  powers  entrusted  to  him  were  in  a measure  despotic.  He  has  de- 
ceased leaving  history  uncertain  whether  to  class  him  among  deliverers 
or  usurpers. 

In  regard  to  the  question,  whether  they  will  be  able  to  defend  their  in- 
dependence, no  country  on  the  globe  is  so  strongly  fortified  by  nature 
against  invasion.  The  immense  mountains  are  impregnable  barriers, 
wherein  a healthy  air  the  "inhabitants  have  only  to  guard  their  defiles, 
and  cause  the  armies  of  their  invaders  to  waste  away  with  sickness  on  the 
scorching  and  humid  plains.  The  river  Plate  has  its  peculiar  difficulties 
of  ascent ; and  the  eastern  coast  of  Mexico  is  inaccessible  to  a hostile 
fleet.  The  inhabitants  enjoy  the  blessings  of  plenty,  industry  and  wealth. 
Private  property  is  held  sacred ; and  these  blessings  have  the  zest  of  being 
entirely  new.'  The  inhabitants  are  easily  trained  to  become  good  sold- 
iers, and  in  many  of  their  battles  with  their  invaders,  and  with  each  other, 
have  fought  with  great  gallantry.  The  population  of  the  Republic  of  Co- 
lombia is  rated  at  2,500,000,  and  the  annual  revenue  at  something  more 
than  3,000,000  dollars. 

Brazil.  The  boundaries  of  this  immense  country  are  still  in  question. 
It  stretches  almost  from  the  Amazon  to  the  La  Plata,  and  Guyana  and  the 
Atlantic  are  the  northern  boundaries.  The  Atlantic  bounds  it  on  tine  east. 
On  the  south  it  comes  to  a point.  On  the  west  it  is  bounded  by  Peru  and 
Buenos  Ayres.  It  constitutes  two  fifths  of  all  South  America,  and  a ter- 
ritory ten  times  larger  than  France. 

Inhabitants.  The  population  is  reputed  to  amount  to  four  millions, 
and  is  chiefly  confined  to  the  coast,  and  the  mining  districts. 

Soil.  The  maritime  districts  consist,  for  the  most  part  of  clay  covered 
with  a rich  mould.  Great  part  of  the  country  is  of  extraordinary  and  in- 
exhaustible fertility.  On  the  northern  coast  is  the  great  chain  of  Itiapaba 
mountains.  The  Marcella  forms  an  interior  range.  In  the  very  centre 
of  South  America  are  the  immense  plains  and  heights  of  Parexis,  cover- 
ed with  sand  and  a light  earth,  and  resembling  at  a distance  the  waves  of 
a stormy  sea.  Yet  the  streams  Madera,  Topayos,  Xingu,  Jaura,  Sypo- 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


167 

toba,  and  Cuioba  descend  in  different  directions  from  this  arid  ridge,  to 
feed  the  Amazon,  the  Paraguay  and  their  tributaries.  Most  of  these 
rivers  roll  auriferous  sands,  and  at  the  sources  of  the  Paraguay  is  a bed 
of  diamonds.  Different  salines  and  salt  lakes  in  the  interior  supply  great 
quantities  of  salt.  The  Paraguay,  in  its  long  and  mighty  course  forms 
by  its  inundations  the  great  lake  Xarayes.  The  noble  cataract  of  the 
Parana. constitutes  a most  sublime  spectacle.  The  spectator  observes 
six  rainbows  rising  above  each  other,  and  the  atmosphere  is  circumfused 
with  the  vapor.  The  coast  adjoining  the  mouth  of  the  Amazon  and  To- 
cantins is  low  and  marshy.  Many  of  the  streams  are  precipitous  torrents 
during  the  rainy  season,  and  completely  disappear  in  the  dry.  The  Ma- 
ranhao,  Rio  Grande  and  Pariaba  are-  important  rivers.  The  Rio  Grande 
de  San  Pedro  is  broad  near  the  sea;  but  has  not  a long  course. 

Climate.  In  a country  so  extensive,  and  so  diversified  by  eleva- 
tions the  climate  must  be  various.  The  regions  along  the  streams,  and 
near  the  elevated  plains  and  mountains  are  delightful  for  their  tempe- 
rature. San  Paulo  is  a town  12,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea  and 
has  all  the  charms  of  a tropical  climate,  without  any  of  the  inconveniences 
of  excessive  heat.  Large  tracts  of  the  table  la,nds  are  of  this  character. 
The  west  wind,  passing  into  the  interior,  over  swamps  and  marshes,  is 
considered  unhealthy.  But  the  fragrance  of  the  aromatic  plants  in  the 
woods  partly  corrects  this  unhea^thfulness.  The  rainy  season  commen- 
ces in  March,  and  sometimes  in  February.  The  north  wind  blows  with 
little  remission,  during  the  dry  months.  The  soil  of  the  mountains  is 
then  parched.  The  nights  are  cool,  and  hoar  frosts  are  net  uncommon. 
During  the  sultriest  season,  the  air  along  the  coast  is  tempered  by  the 
refreshing  sea  breezes.  Dews  are  excessive.  At  Rio  Janeiro  in  1781, 
the  heat  averaged  by  Fahrenheit,  72°.  There  fell  42  inches  of  rain. 
The  cloudless  days  were  112.  The  cloudy  days  without  rain  were  133; 
and  the  days  of  rain  were  120.  There  were  thunder  storms,  during 
77  days,  and  dense  mists  during  43. 

Minerals,  precious  stones , &$c.  The  chief  diamond  district  in  Brazil 
is  that  of  Cerro  de  Frio,  a territory  of  the  loftiest  and  most  rugged  moun- 
tains in  Brazil,  and  in  extent  16  leagues  from  north  to  south  by  8 from 
east  to  west.  The  precious  stones  found  there  were  considered  bright 
crystals,  and  used  as  card  counters.  They  were  sold  to  the  Dutch  be- 
fore their  value  was  known.  In  20  years  1,000  ounces  were  imported 
into  Europe  from  Brazil.  So  great  an  amount  in  so  short  a time,  di- 
minished their  value,  and  caused  them  to  be  sent  from  Brazil  to  India, 
instead  of  being  imported  from  that  country,  as  formerly.  Cerro  de  Frio 
has  few  attractions  for  settlers.  Sterile  mountains  and  desert  plains  in- 
form the  traveller  that  he  is  in  the  diamond  district.  Between  1801  and 


168 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


1806  the  diamonds  imported  from  Brazil  to  Lisbon  weighed  115,671 
carats.  A great  amount  was,  no  doubt,  sent  abroad  clandestinely,  and. 
many  were  circulated  privately  through  the  country,  and  received  instead 
of  money.  They  differ  in  weight  from  a grain  to  17  carats.  If  a slave 
find  one  weighing  <174  carats,  he  is  crowned  with  flowers,  and  manumit- 
ted. Topazes  of  different  colors,  and  chrysoberyls,  susceptible  of  a most 
beautiful  polish,  are  found  in  this  country.  There  are  gold  mines  in  the 
vicinity  of  St.  Paulo,  and  Villa  Rica,  but  they  have  not  yet  been  much 
worked.  Most  of  the  gold  from  this  country  is  supplied  by  washing  the 
soil.  A bowl  full  is  washed  in  less  than  a quarter  of  an  hour,  and  yields 
on  an  average  16  pence  worth  of  gold.  A fifth  part  goes  to  the  crown. 
Humboldt  supposes  that  the  annual  value  does  not  exceed  five  millions 
of  piastres. 

Plants . This  country,  as  might  be  expected,  is  extremely  rich  in 
tropical  plants.  The  tribe  of  the  palms  is  numerous  and  splendid.  Sev- 
eral of  these  kinds  are  more  lofty  and  splendid  than  even  those  of  India. 
No  words  can  reach  the  richness  and  splendor  cff  many  of  the  fruit  and 
flowering  trees.  Some  flower  many  times  in  a year.  The  Lecythis  ol 
laria  crows  in  the  woods  of  S.  Yoao  Baptista  to  the  height  of  100  feet. 
Its  summit  is  covered  with  rose  coloured  leaves,  and  white  blossoms.  Its 
nuts  are  as  large  as  a cannon  ball;  and  it  is  not  safe  to  remain  under  the 
trees  when  these  nuts  are  falling.  The  Indians  eat  the  seeds  roasted  as 
a substitute  for  bread.  A writer  of  the  country  affirms  that  no  country 
possesses  so  excellent  wood  for  ship  building;  A merchant  ship  may  be 
had  in  Brazil  for  half  the  sum  it  costs  in  Europe.  The  trade  of  Bahia 
and  several  other  sea  ports  Consists  chiefly  in  ship  building.  The  royal 
navy  of  Portugal  consists  chiefly  of  Brazilian  timber.  There  is  an  end- 
less variety  and  profusion  in  the  species  of  trees  and  plants,  compared 
with  those  of  more  northern  countries.  But  the  trees  are  easily  blown 
up  by  the  wind ; and  being  of  an  immense  length,  destroy  many  others 
in  their  fall. 

There  are  many  dyeing  woods  and  vegetables  in  Brazil.  The  famous 
Brazil  wood  is  of  three  species,  nririm,  rozado,  and  Brazilletto.  Cassada 
is  the  principal  nourishment  of  the  inhabitants.  Ignames,  rice,  wheat 
and  maize  are,  also  cultivated.  Maize  yields  SCO  for  1.  Each  plant  of 
the  mandioca  produces  from  6 to  12  pounds  of  bread.  The  marobi 
yields  a great  quantity  of  oil.  Melons,  gourds,  and  bananas  abound. 
Lemons,  guavos,  and  different  kinds  of  oranges  grow  along  the  coast. 
From  the  fruit  of  the  mangaba  they  make  an  agreeable  beverage.  Pine 
apples  grow  abundantly  in  some  provinces.  The  culture  of  sugar,  coffee, 
cotton,  and  indigo  has  of  late  years  made  considerable  progress.  The 
finest  tobacco  is  cultivated  in  some  parts  of  the  country.  The  banks  of 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


169 


the  rivers  are  covered  with  immense  forests  of  cocoa  trees,  and  the  ten- 
drils of  vanilla  are  seen  clinging,  like  ivy,  round  the  highest  branches. 
The  country  produces  different  sorts  of  pepper,  the  wild  cinnamon,  and 
the  Brazilian  cassia.  The  country  is,  also,  prolific  in  medicinal  plants. 
All  the  quadrupeds  common  to  Peru  are  found  here;  and  a number  of 
others  that  are  peculiar  to  this  region.  Various  species  of  apes  are  seen 
in  the  woods.  The  vampyre  bat  fixes  on  the  jugular  vein  of  animals, 
and  is  supposed  to  lull  the  pain  of  its  bite  by  flapping  its  wings,  all  the 
time  it  sucks  the  blood.  Two  species  of  sloths  inhabit  the  country,  and 
of  all  lands  under  the  sun,  Brazil  has  the  largest  and  gaudiest  butterflies. 

Birds.  The  Brazilian  birds  are  distinguished  for  the  variety  and  splen- 
dor of  their  plumage.  The  red,  blue,  and  green  parrots  frequent  the  tops 
of  the  trees.  The  gallinaceous  and  pigeon  tribes  haunt  the  woods.  Ori- 
oles, manakins,  and  orioles  resound  their  songs  through  the  forest. 
The  toucan  is  prized  for  its  feathers,  which  are  lemon,  bright  red,  and 
black  in  different  parts  of  the  body.  The  different  species  of  humming 
birds  are  more  numerous  than  in  any  other  country  in  America.  There 
are  ten  species  of  wild  bees,  most  of  which  produce  honey  of  an  aromatic 
flavor.  Cochineal  might  be  produced  in  abundance.  A species  of  mu- 
rex  is  found  on  the  coast  of  St.  Catherine’s,  of  the  size  of  a nut,  which 
yields  a color  at  first  yellow,  but  on  exposure  to  the  air  a rich  crimson, 
supposed  to  be  identical  with  the  purple  of  the  ancients. 

Departments.  Brazil  is  divided  into  nine  governments,  called  capitan- 
ias,  as  follow:  Bio  Janeiro,  Para,  Maranhao,  Pernambuco,  Bahia,  Sail 
Paulo,  Mattogrosso,  Goyaz,  and^Minas  Geraes.  The  primate  of  Brazil 
holds  the  highest  ecclesiastical  office.  There  aretwTo  supreme  courts 
of  justice,  one  at  Bahia;  the  other  at  Bio  Janeiro.  There  are  also  24 
comarcas,  in  which  are  established  subordinate  courts. 

Chief  Towns.  Bio  Janeiro  has  been  called  by  some  writers  Saint 
Sebastian.  This  town  has  an  excellent  harbor,  defended  by  the  castle  of 
Santa  Cruz.  The  hills  in  the  vicinity  are  adorned  with  houses,  churches 
or  convents.  The  entrance  to  the  harbor  is  confined  by  several  islands, 
adorned  with  houses.  The  beautiful  bay  is  a great  ornament  to  the  town. 
Its  calm  and  transparent  waters  reflect  on  all  sides  the  images  of  steep 
rocks,  thick  forests,  churches  and  houses.  The  most  remarkable 
public  buildings  are  the  convents  of  St.  Antonio  and  St.  Theresa,  the 
ancient  college  of  the  Jesuits,  and  the  church  of  Nossa  Senhora  da 
Gloria.  The  town  is  well  supplied  with  water  by  an  aqueduct.  In  1817 
it  contained  110,000  inhabitants.  It  has  been  recently  rated  to  contain 
200,000.  It  is  very  favorably  situated  for  trade  with  every  quarter  of  the 
globe.  Its  exports  are  numerous,  rich,  abundant,  and  under  an  enlighten- 
ed administration  it  would  be  a great  mart  for  the  most  distant  countries, 
Vol  II.  22 


170 


SOUTH  AMERICA 


Rio  Grande,  the  most  southern  captaincy,  is  watered  by  many  rivers* 
with  well  wooded  banks;  and  some  of  them  are  rich  in  gold.  Numerous 
flocks  of  ostriches  wander  in  the  plains,  and  the  forests  abound  in  game. 
If  a better  system  of  agriculture  were  established,  Rio  Grande  might 
soon  become  the  granary  of  the  kingdom.  Rio  Grande,  the  chief  town, 
is  a city  of  importance. 

The  island  of  St.  Catharine  is  embellished  by  beautiful  scenery  of 
rocks  and  woods.  Refreshing  breezes  temper  the  solstitial  heats-.  The 
soil  in  the  interior  is  of  extraordinary  fertility.  An  exuberant  profusion 
of  flowers  indicates  a genial  climate.  The  jessamine  and  the  rose  are  in 
bloom  through  the  year.  The  delightful  vale  of  Picada  is  thickly  studded 
with  white  cottages  in  the  midst  of  orange  groves,  and  coffee  planta- 
tions. 

The  plain  of  Corrit  iva,  perhaps  the  richest  in  the  world,  has  been  con- 
nected with  the  ocean,  by  a road  made  across  a lofty  ridge  of  mountains, 
4,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  Rio  Janeiro  and  San  Paulo  are 
supplied  with  cattle,  horses  and  mules  from  this  fertile  district. 

The  best  rice  in  Brazil  is  raised  in  the  district  of  Santos.  A paved  road 
has  been  made  from  Santos,  the  port  town,  to  San  Paulo  in  the  interior. 
It  is  cut  in  many  places  through  solid  rocks,  and  in  others  along  the  edge 
of  precipices.  Fine  springs  form  romantic  cascades  in  the  midst  of  the 
rocks.  The  traveller  ascends  under  arbours  of  shade,  and  half  way  up 
the  ascent  looks  down  upon  the  clouds.  The  summit  of  the  mountain 
is  6,000  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  which,  though  20  miles  distant* 
seems  to  wash  the  base. 

On  this  mountain,  in  a wide  plain,  is  situated  the  city  of  San  Paulo* 
with  a climate  the  most  delightful  in  the  world.  Its  streets  are  broad  and 
clean;  and  its  population,  with  its  dependent  parishes,  30,000.  The  in- 
habitants are  famous  for  ornamenting  their  gardens;  and  the  ladies  are 
equally  renowned  for  their  beauty  and  sprightliness.  The  term  Paulista 
is  one  of  compliment  to  a lady,  as  implying  that  she  looks  as  if  she  might 
be  an  inhabitant  of  that  city.  The  people  are  noted  for  their  spirit,  en- 
terprize  and  patriotism. 

The  population  of  Minas  Geraes  has  been  rated  at  half  a million. 
The  country,  though  almost  unexplored,  is  rich  in  agricultural  products 
of  almost  every  sort.  The  grape  yields  a delicious  wine;  but  the  people 
in  the  gold  and  diamond  districts  neglect  their  vines,  and  drink  water. 
Many  of  the  trees  are  adapted  for  dyeing  and  tanning.  The  adracanth 
is  here  of  the  best  quality,  and  the  sugar  cane  grows  in  its  wild  state. 

Villa  Rica,  the  chief  town,  has  been  improved  of  late  years.  It  is 
well  supplied  with  water,  and  its  principal  street  is  half  a league  in  length. 
From  its  elevated  situation,  it  happens  that  the  thermometer  seldom 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


171 


reaches  above  82°  in  the  shade,  and  its  range  is  between  this  point  and 
48°.  The  population  amounts  to  20,000  souls. 

The  capitania  of  Goyez,  on  account  of  its  inland  situation,  is  seldom 
visited.  Its  rivers  are  well  stocked  with  fish,  and  its  woods  abound  with 
game.  But  the  inhabitants  are  scattered  over  a vast  extent  of  country. 
Some  of  the  mines  are  rich  in  gold.  The  diamonds  are  larger  though  not 
of  so  pure  a water  as  those  of  Cerro  del  Frio.  Cotton  is  cultivated  near 
the  frontiers.  Villa  Boa,  the  chief  town,  is  built  in  a low  situation  on 
the  banks  of  the  Vermelho. 

The  government  of  Bahia  stretches  along  the  coast.  The  soil  is  prin- 
cipally a rich  vegetable  mould,  is  watered  by  many  streams,  and  well  ad- 
apted to  the  cultivation  of  the  sugar  cane.  Its  tobacco,  coffee  and  rice 
are  famous.  The  beautiful  Brazil  wood,  growing  here,  is  equal  to  that 
from  Pernambuco.  San  Salvador  de  Bahia,  the  chief  city,  is  nearly  four 
miles  in  length,  from  north  to  south.  The  lower  part  of  the  town  inhab- 
ited chiefly  by  mechanics  and  tradesmen,  is  considered  unhealthy.  The 
wealthy  inhabit  the  higher  part,  nearly  600  feet  ajxrve  the  level  of  the  sea. 
The  population  has  been  estimated  at  18,000  souls,  of  which  colored 
people  constitute,  perhaps,  two-thirds.  The  city  is  well  built.  The 
chief  occupation  of  the  people  consists  in  ship  building.  The  town  is 
better  supplied  with  provisions  than  Rio  Janeiro.  Oranges,  water  melons, 
pine  apples,  and  different  sorts  of  fruit  are  plentiful  throughout  the  dis- 
trict. The  excessive  heat  of  the  climate  is  moderated  by  the  sea  breeze 
and  by  the  circumstance  of  the  shortness  of  the  days,  and  the  equality 
of  the  nights. 

The  government  of  Pernambuco  is  famed  for  its  dye  woods,  vanilla, 
cocoa,  rice  and  sugar.  Its  cotton  was  a long  time  considered  the  best  in 
the  world.  The  lower  part  of  the  city  is  built  on  two  islands,  and  is 
called  Recif,  or  Pernambuco.  The  other  part,  built  on  an  eminence  three 
miles  distant,  has  received  the  name  Olinda.  The  population  of  the  two 
towns  amounts  to  65,000  souls. 

Piauhy  is  400  miles  from  noith  to  south,  and  70  in  medium  breadth. 
Gold,  iron  and  lead  have  been  discovered  in  this  district.  The  province 
has  been  more  recently  termed  Maranham,  and  is  important  for  the  value 
of  its  productions.  Annato,  capsicum,  pimento,  ginger,  and  the  best 
fruits  of  Europe  grow  in  great  abundance  throughout  the  province. 
The  chief  town,  Maranham,  contains  30,000  inhabitants. 

Grand  Para  and  Rio  Neo-ro  form  the  largest  government  in  Brazil,  ex- 
tending  800  miles  from  east  to  west,  and  400  in  breadth.  Grand  Para, 
the  chief  town,  is  sometimes  called  Belem.  The  population  amounts  to 
20,000  inhabitants,  who  are  poor  and  destitute  of  employment.  The 
capitania  of  Mattogrosso  abounds  with  forests  of  wild  cocoa  trees,  and 


172 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


the  different  kinds  of  wood,  which  grow  in  the  lower  parts  of  Brazil. 
Small  pieces  of  gold  are  collected  from  the  beds  of  the  rivers.  The  city 
of  Cuiabu  is  the  chief  town,  and  is  situated  on  a river  of  that  name, 
240  miles  from  its  junction  with  the  Paraguay.  The  population  amounts 
to  30,000,  and  is  well  supplied  with  fish,  fruits  and  all  sorts  of  vegetables. 

Natives.  Various  tribes  are  scattered  over  this  immense  country. 
They  are  strong,  and  well  made  and  of  the  usual  copper  complexion. 
They  are  represented  by  the  Portuguese,  as  being  mostly  cannibals.  The 
Jesuits  had  multitudes  of  these  wandering  savages  completely  subjected 
to  their  rule.  The  Guarini  is  a language  very  generally  known  by  the 
natives.  But  there  are  fifty-one  dialects,  spoken  by  different  tribes  of 
the  interior  that  have  no  affinity  with  the  Guarini. 

Government.  This  country  at  present  takes  the  proud  name  of  an 
empire.  The  two  crowns  of  Portugal  and  Brazil  are  separated.  A revo- 
lution has  recently  induced  the  emperor  to  abdicate  his  crown;  and  the 
government  is  in  an  unsettled  state.  There  are  even  hopes,  that  it  will 
throw  off  its  miserable  pageant  of  an  emperor,  and  become  like  the  other 
American  states,  a republic.  This  country,  independently  of  its  military 
resources,  which  are  respectable,  might  be  a great  state,  both  on  account 
of  its  position,  and  the  extent  and  fertility  of  its  soil.  Its  population,  like 
that  of  Russia,  or  the  United  States,  might  be  doubled  in  a few  years. 
But  before  this  can  be  effected,  this  naturally  fine  country  must  have  a 
Czar  Peter,  or  free  institutions.  It  has  been  hitherto  bowed  down 
under  a yoke  of  iron. 

Guiana  is  bounded  on  the  south  by  the  Amazon,  on  the  west  by  the 
Rio  Negro,  and  on  the  north  and  north-west  by  the  Orinoco  and  the  At- 
lantic ocean.  The  coast  is  low,  and  at  several  leagues  from  the  shore, 
subject  to  inundation.  On  these  low  grounds  grow  the  mangrove,  in 
which  the  water  remains  stagnant.  The  marshes  and  fens  are  covered 
with  reeds,  and  afford  resorts  to  innumerable  wild  fowls,  and  caymans,  or 
crocodiles.  No  calcareous  rocks  have  hitherto  been  observed  in  this 
country.  The  highest  inland  mountains  are  not  more  than  1,800  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  mouths  of  the  rivers  are  broad  and  shal- 
low. At  a distance  in  the  interior  they  abound  in  cascades.  No  fewer 
than  thirty-eight  have  been  counted  on  the  Essequibo.  They  are  obser- 
ved, also,  on  the  Bemarara,  Qyapok,  Maroni,  Berbice,  Corentins,  Sina- 
mari  and  the  Arouri. 

Seasons.  The  dry  season  lasts  from  the  end  of  July  to  November; 
and  the  rainy  season  corresponds  to  the  winter  months  in  Europe.  The 
most  violent  rains  sometimes  fall  in  January  and  February.  The  weather 
is  dry  and  agreeable,  during  the  month  of  March  and  the  beginning  of 
May,  April  and  the  latter  part  of  May  are  subject  to  continual  rains. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


173 


The  climate  is  not  liable  to  the  excessive  heat  of  the  East  Indies,  Africa 
or  the  West  Indies.  The  winds,  passing  over  a vast  extent  of  ocean, 
temper  the  sultriness  and  the  oppressive  heats.  Europeans  affirm,  that 
the  morning  and  evening  breezes  are  cold  in  many  parts  of  the  interior. 

Diseases.  Guiana,  has,  perhaps,  been  thought  more  sickly,  than  it 
really  is.  The  climate  is  certainly  humid,  and  the  air  rendered  insalu- 
brious by  thick  woods  and  uncultivated  lands.  It  is  supposed,  that  the 
cutting  down  the  trees  is  unfavorable  to  the  health  of  the  first  colonists. 
Tertian  and  quartan  agues,  though  .common,  are  not  dangerous.  Epi- 
demic diseases  are  rare. 

Inundations.  This  country  is  subject  to  annual  overflow  of  the  rivers. 
Quadrupeds  are  forced  to  take  refuge  on  the  highest  trees;  lizards, 
agoutis,  and  pecaris  quit  their  watery  dens,  and  remain  on  the  branches. 
Aquatic  birds  spring  upon  the  trees,  to  avoid  the  cayman  and  serpents 
that  infest  the  temporary  lakes.  The  first  forsake  their  ordinary  food, 
and  live  on  the  fruits  and  berries  of  the  shrubs,  through  which  they 
swim.  The  crab  is  found  upon  the  trees,  and  the  oyster  multiplies  in 
the  forest.  The  Indian,  who  surveys  from  his  canoe  this  confusion  of 
earth  and  sea,  suspends  his  hammock  on  an  elevated  branch,  and  sleeps 
without  fear  in  the  midst  of  the  danger.  Oranges,  lemons,  the  guava, 
the  laurus  persea,  the  Sapota,  the  amiona,  and  other  fruits  grow  in  the 
cultivated  lands,  all  the  year.  The  wild  fruits  bear  but  once  in  a year. 
The  most  remarkable  of  these  are  the  grenadilla,  and  the  different  species 
of  the  palms.  The  mango  and  other  East  Indian  plants  thrive  in  Guiana; 
but  the  fruits  of  Europe,  with  the  exception  of  the  grape,  fig  and  pome- 
granate, are  not  adapted  to  the  climate.  Three  species  of  the  coffee  tree 
were  found  here  indigenous.  The  Arabian  was  afterwards  added.  The 
country  produces  in  abundance,  cloves,  cinnamon  and  different  sorts  of 
pepper.  The  cocoa  tree  in  some  places  grows  spontaneously.  Indigo 
and  vanilla  are  indigenous  to  the  soil.  Manioc  and  cassada  are  consider- 
ed the  most  important  alimentary  plants.  The  potato,  the*igname,  two 
kinds  of  millet  and  the  tayove  are  also  very  nutritive. 

Medicinal  plants.  The  quassia  wood  is  brought  from  this  country. 
Various  other  medicinal  vegetables  abound.  The  country  is,  also,  equal- 
ly prolific  in  poisonous  vegetables.  The  duncane  is  said  to  occasion  in- 
stant death.  The  Indians  dip  their  arrows  in  a solution  of  the  bark  of 
the  woorari  tree.  A negro  woman,  whose  skin  had  been  grazed  by  one 
of  these  arrows,  expired  in  a Short  time,  and  her  infant,  though  not 
wounded,  lost  its  life  from  sucking  her  breast. 

Forest  trees.  The  bananas  and  mangles  are  soft  and  porous.  Some 
of  the  trees  are  susceptible  of  a fine  polish,  though  it  is  difficult  to  cut 
them,  on  account  of  their  excessive  hardness.  Various  kinds  of  beauti 


174 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


fill  cabinet  woods  are  found  in  the  forests,  which  abound  in  varied  and 
romantic  scenery.  Great  varieties  of  flowering  creepers  and  shrubs  dif- 
fuse fragrance  through  the  air.  Parasitical  plants  in  many  places  render 
the  forests  impassable.  The  simira  yields  a rich  crimson  dye*  The 
largest  canoes  are  made  from  the  wild  cotton  tree. 

Qucidrvpeds.  The  same  as  those  of  Brazil  and  Paraguay.  The  red 
tiger  of  Surinam  is  less  than  the  jaguar,  but  resembles  it  in  habits,  and 
is  equally  ferocious.  The  tiger  cat  is  a beautiful  animal,  not  much  larger 
than  the  domestic  cat,  and  is  lively,  mischevious,  and  untameable.  There 
are  two  species  of  *the  ant  bear.  One  of  the  species  is  almost  8 feet  in 
length,  attacks  the  jaguar;  and  seldom  leaves  its  hold  without  destroying 
it.  The  dog  crab  frequents  the  sea  shore,  and  uses  its  feet  very  dexter- 
ously in  drawing  shell  fish  out  of  their  cavities.  There  are  many  spe- 
cies of  monkeys  in  Guiana.  The  guata  is  considered  to  be  a striking 
resemblance  to  man,  or  rather  to  an  Indian  old  woman.  Three  species 
of  deer  are  indigenous.  The  agouti  and  paca  are  considered  the  best 
game  in  Guiana.  The  cabiai  is  an  amphibious  animal,  armed  with  strong 
tusks,  and  covered  with  bristles.  The  peccary,  or  mexican  hog,  has  an 
orifice  on  his  back,  containing  a fetid  liquor,  not  unlike  musk.  The 
coati-monda  is  a great  destroyer  of  poultry, -and  is  said  to  be  as  cunning 
as  a fox.  The  vampyre  bat  is  the  most  destructive  in  the  country.  The 
boa,  or  as  it  is  called  in  the.  language  of  the  country  aboma,  is  a large 
amphibious  snake  forty  feet  in  length,  and  four  or  five  in  circumference. 
It  is  indifferent,  as  to  its  prey,  and  destroys,  when  hungry,  any  animal, 
that  comes  within  its  reach.  The  negroes  consider  it  excellent  food,  and 
its  fat  is  converted  into  oil.  The  rattle  snake  and  dipsas  are  the  most 
noxious  reptiles  in  Guiana.  The  sting  of  the  latter  is  not  always  fatal, 
but  produces  fever,  acccompanied  with  excessive  thirst  whence  its  name. 
Guiana  is  infested  with  serpents,  lizards  and  cayman.  Of  the  fresh 
water  fish  the  pacoun  and  aymara  are  said  to  be  the  best.  The  warapper 
has  been  found  on  the  trees.  It  feeds  on  them,  during  the  inundations, 
and  remains  entangled  among  the  branches,  when  the  waters  have  sub- 
sided. 

The  Dutch  settlements  of  Essequibo,  Bemarara  and  Berbice  form, 
what  has  been  called  British  Guiana,  which  is  inhabited  by  9,000  whites, 
and  80,000  negroes.  The  harbor  of  the  city  of  Essequibo,  though  situated 
at  the  confluence  of  two  large  rivers,  has  not  been  hitherto  considered  of 
much  importance . Most  of  the  settlers  reside  on  the  banks  of  the  river, 
near  the  plantations.  Since  the  thick  woods  have  been  cut  down,  the 
refreshing  sea  breeze  is  not  obstructed  in  its  course,  and  the  climate  is 
milder  and  more  salubrious,  than  that  ofSurinam. 


SOUTH  AMERICA. 


175 


Demarara  is  the  most  flourishing  of  the  British  settlements  in  Guiana. 
The  population  .of  Stf'aboek,  the  capital,  amounts  to  10,000  souls. 
Many  of  the  inhabitants  are  very  wealthy,  and  the  people  still  retain 
several  Dutch  customs.  Foreign  commodities  are  very  dear.  A guinea 
is  frequently  given  for  a pound  of  tea.  New  Amsterdam,  the  chief  town* 
in  the  colony  of  Berbice,  is  situated  on  the  river  of  the  same  name  The 
marshy  ground  extends  two  or  three  leagues  into  the  interior,  and  the  land 
is  supposed  to  be  better  adapted  for  cocoa  and  coffee,  than  for  sugar  plan- 
tations* 

The  fine  colony  of  Surinam  is  still  in  the  hands  of  the  Dutch;  and  is* 
perhaps,  the  best  monument  of  that  industrious  people.  No  part  of  the 
West  Indies  is  so  extensively,  or  so  well  cultivated.  Parimarabo,  the 
chief  town,  is  built  on  the  right  side  of  the  beautiful  river  Surinam.  The 
streets  are  lined  with  orange,  shaddock,  tamarind  and  lemon  trees,  which 
appear  in  bloom,  while  their  branches  at  the  same  time  are  weighed  down 
with  fruit.  The  walks  are  covered  with  gravel  and  sea  shells.  The 
houses  are  sumptuously  furnished,  The  number  of  whites  in  Surinam 
amounts  to  10,000;  the  negroes  to  80,000,  and  the  exports  toj£  100,000 
sterling.  The  Dutch  and  British  settlements,  in  Guiana  present  a vast 
plain,  covered  with  plantations,  or  enamelled  with  rich  verdure,  bounded 
on  one  side  by  a dark  ridge  of  impenetrable  forests,  and  bounded  on  the 
other  by  the  azure  billows  of  the  ocean.  The  garden  between  the  sea  and 
the  desert  is  intersected  by  a great  many  streams  confined  by  dikes,  and 
separated  from  each  other  by  excellent  roads  or  navigable  canals. 

The  revolted  negroes  have  established  many  petty  republics  in  the  into-3 
rior.  Although  they  go  naked  they  live  in  abundance.  They  make  their 
butter  from  the  fat  of  the  palm  tree-worm,  and  extract  good  oil  from  the 
pistachio  nut.  They  are  expert  huntsman  and  fishermen,  and  under- 
stand the  art  of  curing  their  provisions.  They  obtain  salt  from  the  ashes 
of  the  palm,  and  when  a sufficiency  cannot  be  procured,  season  their  food 
with  red  pepper.  The  palm  tree  furnishes  them  with  plenty  of  wine* 
Their  fields  are  covered  with  rice,  manioc,  ignames  and  plantains.  The 
Manicole  supplies  them  with  all  the  materials,  from  which  their  huts  are 
constituted.  Their  cups  are  made  from,  the  calubash  tree,  and  a sort  of  net 
work,  woven  by  an  insect,  furnished  them  with  their  hats.  The  nebees* 
so  common  in  the  forests,  are  converted  into  cordage.  They  kindle  a fire 
by  rubbing  two  pieces  of  hard  wood,  which  they  call  bi-bi,  together.  Can- 
dles are  made  of  their  tallow,  and  their  oil  is  burnt  in  lamps.  The  nu- 
merous swarms  of  wild  bees,  with  which  their  country  abounds,  yield 
them  plenty  of  wax  aud  honey.  Such  are  these  simple  republics  of 
negroes,  reduced  in  other  respects  to  a state  of  nature. 


176 


WEST  INDIES. 


France  has  never  derived  any  advantage  from  its  colony  in  Guiana. 
Cayenne,  from  its  position,  and  the  thickness  of  the  surrounding  woods, 
and  the  depth  of  its  marshes,  is  almost  inaccessible.  . The  whole  num- 
ber of  whites  in  the  colony  amounted  to  2,000,  and  the  remainder  of  the 
inhabitants  to  18  or  20,000.  The  exports,  however  have  been  tripled, 
since  1789. 

Indians.  A great  many  tribes  inhabit  the  deep  forests  of  the  interior. 
They  are  affectionate,  hospitable  and  simple  in  their  manners  to  each  other, 
but  fierce  and  warlike  to  strangers,  and  unconquerable  in  their  efforts  to 
retain  their  independence.  In  the  interior  of  this  country  was  the  fabu- 
lous El  Dorado  of  adventurers,  about  the  year  1540. 

West  Indies,  or  Colombian  Archipelago.  This  is  a numerous  group  of 
islands,  that  stretch  in  the  form  of  an  arch,  or  bow,  between  the  two  Amer- 
ican continents.  They  have  been  called  Antilles  from  the  Latin  ante  in- 
sulas. They  are  often  called  Carribees,  and  by  the  North  Americans 
the  West  Indies.  They  extend  from  the  gulf  of  Florida  to  that  of  Vene- 
zuela, and  are  divided  into  the  greater  and  less  Antilles,  and  sometimes 
into  the  windward  and  leeward  islands.  Cuba,  Jamaica,  St.  Domingo, 
and  Porto  Rico  are  the  great  Antilles.  A remarkable  current,  called  the 
gulf  stream,  sets  through  this  group  of  islands . It  passes  from  the  gulf  of 
Florida,  like  a swift  river,  immensely  broad,  with  most  singular  ripples, 
in  calm  weather,  along  its  points  of  contact  with  the  still  waters.  Af- 
ter passing  from  this  chain  of  islands,  it  diverges  from  the  American  con- 
tinent, increasing  in  breadth  as  it  diminishes  in  velocity.  The  waters  of 
the  gulf  are  warmer,  than  those  of  the  still  ocean. 

This  sea  is  generally  in  a profound  calm,  whence  the  Spaniards  call  it 
the  Ladies  sea , and  the  water  is  then  so  transparent,  that  the  mariner  can 
discern  fish  and  coral  at  60  fathoms  below  the  surface.  The  ship  seems 
to  float  in  air,  and  the  spectator  is  often  seized  with  vertigo,  while  he  be- 
holds through  the  chrystaline  fluid  submarine  groves,  and  shining  or 
monstrous  fishes  darting  among  them;  or  beautiful  shells  glittering 
among  tufts  of  focus  and  sea  weed.  Fresh  water  springs  issue  from  the 
sea  on  both  sides  of  the  channel  between  Yurcatan  and  Cuba.  They  rush 
with  such  violence  from  the  deep,  that  it  is  dangerous  for  small  vessels  to 
approach  thence.  Boats  have  been  dashed  to  pieces  by  the  violence  of 
the  surges  that  ensue.  The  seamen  sometimes  here  draw  their  supplies 
of  fresh  water  from  the  bottom  of  the  ocean.  Humboldt  says,  that  some 
of  the  fish  in  these  springs  have  never  been  found  in  the  saltwater. 

There  are  mountains  on  all  the  larger  islands  of  this  Archipelago.  The 
highest  are  on  the  west  of  St.  Domingo,  the  east  of  Cuba  and  the  north  of 
Jamaica.  Volcanoes  have  been  observed  in  Gaudaloupe,  and  some  other 


WEST  INDIES. 


177 


islands.  Their  general  geological  feature  is  abrupt  transition  from  moun- 
tains to  plains,  marked  by  steep  and  craggy  rocks.  Coral  and  madrepore 
rocks  are  common  on  the  different  coasts.  Cuba  and  the  Bahamas  are 
surrounded  by  labyrinths  of  low  rocks,  several  of  which  are  Covered  with 
palm  trees. 

These  islands  are  generally  situated  under  the  tropic  of  Cancer,  and  there 
is  very  little  difference  in  the  climate;  so  that  the  observations  touching 
one  of  them  will  generally  apply  to  the  whole.  The  periodical  rains, 
which  give  birth  to  the  spring  of  the  country,  commence  in  May,  and 
the  brown  of  vegetation  changes  to  a deep  verdure.  The  periodical 
rains  fall  about  noon,  and  cause  a luxuriant  vegetation.  The  medium 
standing  of  the  thermometer  is  78°  Fahr.  These  showers  are  followed 
by  the  splendor  of  tropical  summer.  The  sky  is  nearly  cloudless,  and 
the  heat  would  be  almost  insupportable,  but  for  the  sea  breeze.  The  moon 
emits  a light,  by  which  a person  can  see  to  read  the  smallest  print  by 
night.  The  thermometer  now  often  rises  above  90°,  and  suffocating 
calms  announce  the  re-approach  of  the  great  periodical  rains.  Fiery 
clouds  are  seen  in  the  atmosphere,  and  the  mountains  seem  nearer,  than 
at  other  times.  The  rains  fall  in  torrents.  It  is  said,  that  87  inches  fell 
in  one  year.  Iron  rusts  rapidly ; humidity  is  great,  and  the  inhabitants 
live  in  a kind  of  vapor  bath.  The  climate  is  then  relaxing,  unwholesome 
and  dangerous  to  a European.  Putrid  and  yellow  fever  ensues,  as  some 
say  from  miasm,  and  others  whimsically  affirm  from  lunar  influence.  It 
is  now  generally  believed  not  to  be  contagious,  and  less  dangerous  on 
elevated,  than  marshy  districts.  The  temperate  zone  of  the  Antilles 
commences  at  1,490  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  mountains  at 
an  elevation  of  4000  feet  are  subject  to  mists  and  rains. 

Animals.  Most  of  the  wild  animals  indigenous  to  this  climate  are  of 
a smaller  size.  The  scorpion  is  found  only  in  the  large  islands.  Negroes 
are  sometimes  exposed  to  the  murderous  bite  of  the  cayman  or  crocodile. 
Parrots  of  various  species  glitter  in  the  woods,  and  innumerable  aquatic 
birds  congregate  on  the  shores.  PXumming  birds,  darting  along  the  bright 
flowers,  vie  in  their  plumage  with  the  flowers,  the  emerald  and  ruby.  All 
the  tropical  plants,  shrubs  and  trees  are  natives  of  this  climate.  A canoe 
made  from  a single  trunk  of  a cotton  tree,  has  been  known  to  contain  a 
hundred  persons;  and  the  leaf  of  one  species  of  palm  will  shade  five  or 
six  men.  The  palmetto,  or  mountain  cabbage  tree,  grows  200  feet  high, 
and  its  verdant  summit  trembles  from  the  slightest  breeze.  A splendid 
variety  of  the  noblest  trees  graces  the  plantations.  Lemon,  orange  and 
pomegranate  trees  perfume  the  air  with  the  aroma  of  their  flowers ; while 
their  branches  are  loaded  with  fruit.  The  apple,  peach  and  grape  ripen 
Vol.  II.  23 


178 


WEST  INDIES. 


in  the  mountains.  The  date,  sapota,  sapotilla,  mammee,  rose  apple,  gua- 
va, mango,  different  species  of  spondias  and  annonas,  and  most  of  the 
oriental  tropical  fruits  ripen  on  the  sultry  plains. 

We  should  not  have  space  to  enumerate  the  splendid  varieties  of  flow- 
ering shrubs,  opuntiasj  thistles  and  lianes.  The  polypodium  arboreum, 
at  a distance,  might  be  mistaken  for  the  palm  tree,  on  account  of  its  lofty 
trunk,  and  the  broad  leaves  on  its  summit.  Lignumvitae  wintera-canela, 
cinchona  caribea,  wild  vanilla,  aloes,  arnatto,  and  pimento  are  all  either 
indigenous,  or  cultivated  here.  The  igname  and  potato,  manioc  and 
angola  peas  are  the  food  of  the  negroes.  Sugar  cane  of  the  various  spe- 
cies is  the  well  known,  and  most  abundant  production  of  these  islands. 
No  conflagration  is  more  rapid,  or  alarming  than  a fire  in  a dry  cane  field, 
which  frequently  occurs.  Two  varieties  of  the  cotton,  the  green  seed, 
and  the  small  seed  are  the  most  common  kinds  cultivated.  The  coffee  of 
the  country  is  a native  of  Arabia  Felix.  It  seldom  bears  before  the  third 
season;  sometimes  not  till  the  sixth.  It  never  lasts  more  than  30  years, 
and  frequently  decays,  before  that  time.  A single  plant  produces  from 
one  to  four  pounds. 

Inhabitants.  The  Charibs,  represented  so  fierce,  and  indomitable^ 
and  the  mild  and  timid  races,  first  seen  by  Columbus,  are  nearly  all  ex- 
tinct. The  following  may  serve  as  a table  of  the  present  population. 


Square  Miles. 

Whites. 

Blades. 

Whole  Pop o 

Cuba, 

54,000 

234,000 

198,000 

432,000 

Hayti, 

28,000 

650,000 

650,000 

Jamaica, 

6,000 

40,000 

350,000 

390,000 

Porto  Rico, 

4,140 

94,000 

6,000 

100,000 

Guadaloupe, 

670 

13,000 

88,000 

101,000 

Martinico, 

260 

10,000 

78,000 

88,000 

Barbadoes, 

166 

16,000 

65,000 

81,000 

Antigua, 

93 

2,100 

33,000 

35,100 

Santa  Cruz, 

100 

3,000 

30,000 

33,000 

St.  Christopher, 

70 

4,000 

28,000 

30,000 

Dominica, 

291 

1,600 

25,000 

26,600 

Trinidad, 

1,600 

2,000 

23,000 

25,000 

Grenada, 

109 

1,100 

20,000 

21,100 

St.  Eustatia, 

20 

5,000 

15,000 

20,000 

Tobago, 

140 

900 

15,000 

15,900 

St.  Vincent, 

131 

1,500 

13,500 

15,000 

St.  Lucia, 

220 

2,400 

11,700 

14,100 

WEST  INDIES. 


179 


Margarita, 

350 

8,000 

6,000 

14,000 

The  Bahamas, 

5,000 

3,000 

11,000 

14,000 

Nevis, 

20 

1,000 

io,ooo 

11,000 

Montserrat, 

47 

o 

o 

© 

*> 

p 

10,000 

11,000 

Total, 

443,000 

1,683,000 

2,126,000 

Cuba  is  the  largest  and  most  important  of  these  islands.  It  commands 
the  windward  passage,  as  well  as  the  entrance  into  the  gulfs  of  Mexico 
and  Florida,  and  is  called  with  reason  the  key  of  the  West  Indies.  It  is 
700  miles  in  length,  and  on  a medium  70  in  breadth.  It  is  equal  in  size 
to  Great  Britain.  Its  population  is  rated  at  750,000,  though  we  have 
reason  to  think,  it  exceeds  that  number.  A small  belt  of  the  island  only 
has  yet  been  cultivated.  A chain  of  mountains,  not  very  lofty,  extends 
through  the  whole  island.  The  soil  is  exceedingly  fertile;  the  climate  more 
temperate,  than  most  of  the  other  islands;  and  Cuba  is  justly  considered 
the  healthiest  and  most  fruitful  settlement  in  the  Antilles.  It  is,  probably, 
the  richest  island,  all  things  considered,  in  the  world.  Gold  was  formerly 
found  in  the  island,  and  copper  and  iron  abound.  It  is  famed,  also,  for 
mineral  waters,  and  salt  springs.  Its  chief  wealth  is  derived  from  its  ex. 
tensive  sugar  plantations.  Coffee  is  its  next  most  important  product.  Its 
tobacco  is  the  best  in  the  world.  It  abounds  in  trees,  among  which  are 
many  fitted  for  ship  timber.  Bees  have  multiplied  to  a great  extent. 
Cattle,  as  in  New  Spain,  have  become  wild  in  the  woods,  and  are  killed 
for  their  hides  and  tallow.  The  people  are  active  and  enterprising,  and 
the  revenue,  formerly  reckoned  at  2,000,000  of  piastres,  is  now  much 
more  than  double  that  sum.  The  military  force,  chiefly  militia,  consists 
of  20,000,  most  of  whom  are  ill  disciplined. 

Havanna,  the  capital  of  the  island,  is  on  the  north  coast,  and  was 
founded  by  Velasquez  in  the  sixteenth  century.  Its  population  is  rated 
at  70,000,  and  from  that  to  100,000.  The  largest  fleet  may  ride  in  its 
fine  harbor;  but  the  entrance  into  it  is  narrow,  and  one  ship  only  can 
pass  in  at  a time.  Two  forts,  one  of  them  the  famous  Moro  castle,  de- 
fend it.  The  city  contains  many  fine  buildings,  and  especially  some  no- 
ble and  splendid  churches,  and  is  by  far  the  largest  mercantile  port  in 
Spanish  America,  having  always  a great  show  of  vessels  from  all  quar- 
ters of  the  world.  Puerto  del  Principe,  situated  in  the  midst  of  rich 
savannas,  contained  thirty  years  ago  20,000  inhabitants.  St.  Yago  was 
formerly  the  chief  town  of  the  island.  Matanzas  is  a place  of  consider, 
able  and  growing  importance.  La  Vega  and  Trinidad  may  each  contain 
5,000  inhabitants.  The  exports  of  Havanna  have  been  estimated  at 
$20,000,000  a year. 


180 


WEST  INDIES. 


Jamaica,  although  the  third  of  the  Antilles,  in  point  of  size,  has  been  ren- 
dered by  English  industry  the  first  in  point  of  consequence,  ft  is  150 
miles  long,  by  00  broad,  and  towards  its  extremities  much  narrower,  resem- 
bling an  ellipse. 

The  Blue  Mountains  extend  from  one  extremity  of  the  island  to  the 
other.  They  are  rugged,  with  naked  rocks  heaped  together  by  earth- 
quakes. From  the  rocks  spring  up  lofty  trees  and  evergreens.  Cascades, 
fed  by  a thousand  mountain  rills,  rush  down  the  hills,  emerging  from  the 
deep  and  verdant  forest,  and  add  to  the  beauty  and  freshness  of  the  land- 
scape. From  the  summits  of  the  hills  most  splendid  views  are  afforded 
of  the  distant  sugar  plantations.  The  soil  of  the  savannas  is  rich,  and 
affords  excellent  pasturage  for  cattle.  The  mountains  near  Spanish  Town 
are  resorted  to  on  account  of  their  mineral  waters.  Lead  is  the  only 
metal  which  has  hitherto  been  discovered  in  Jamaica.  The  lowlands  in 
this  island  are  decidedly  unhealthy,  on  account  of  heat  and  humidity. 
The  morning  sea  breeze  renders  the  climate  less  oppressive,  and  the  re- 
freshing air  of  the  mountains  is  salutary  to  invalids.  The  summit  of  the 
highest  mountain  is  7,800  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

Sugar  is  the  great  staple  of  this  island,  and  although  much  more 
abundant  in  some  seasons  than  in  others,  is  more  uniform  than  in  the 
other  islands.  But  the  colonists  of  late  have  directed  their  attention 
much  to  the  cultivation  of  cotton.  Pimento  and  ginger  are  among  the 
products.  The  finest  mahogany  abounds.  The  soap  tree  is  common. 
The  bread  fruit  tree  has  been  transplanted  here,  and  all  the  tropical  fruits 
and  productions  come  to  maturity. 

Jamaica  contains  three  counties,  Middlesex,  Surry,  and  Cornwall. 
The  government  is  composed  of  the  legislative  assembly,  and  a governor 
and  council  appointed  by  the  King.  Port  Royal,  once  the  capital  of  the 
island,  was  destroyed  by  a tremendous  earthquake.  Kingston,  the  pres- 
ent capital  of  Jamaica,  contains  30,000  inhabitants.  Many  of  the  houses 
in  the  upper  part  of  the  town  are  spacious,  although,  like  others  in  these 
islands  and  the  neighboring  continent,  they  consist  only  of  one  story. 
St.  Jago  de  la  Vega,  or  Spanish  Town,  at  no  great  distance  from  Kings- 
ton, is  still  the  seat  of  government.  Its  population  exceeds  6,000  souls. 
In  1815  the  whole  population  amounted  to  360,000  souls,  of  whom 
15,000  were  mulattoes,  and  30,000  of  European  origin.  Thus  the 
blacks  were  in  a ratio  to  the  whites  of  more  than  ten  to  one.  The  staple 
exports  in  the  same  year  consisted  of  119,000  hogsheads  of  sugar,  53,000 
puncheons  of  rum,  and  27,360,000  pounds  of  sugar.  Many  of  the 
planters  are  immensely  rich. 

St.  Domingo,  or  Hayti.  Columbus  gave  to  this  island  the  name  of 
Hispaniola,  or  Little  Spain.  It  extends  330  miles  from  east  to  west,  and 


WEST  INDIES. 


181 


140  from  north  to  south.  The  centre  of  the  island  is  marked  by  the  lofty 
mountains  of  Ciboa,  consisting  of  three  chains.  Most  of  these  summits 
admit  of  cultivation,  and  are  comparatively  healthy.  The  low  and  mar- 
shy grounds  are  exceedingly  unhealthy  to  European  constitutions.  The 
stormy  season  lasts  from  April  to  November.  The  soil  is  well  adapted 
to  all  kinds  of  cultivation  proper  to  the  climate.  Gold  and  silver,  and 
the  other  metals  and  fossils  used  to  be  found  here.  A very  large  lump  of 
native  gold  was  found  in  the  mountains;  and  the  Maroon  negroes  still 
carry  on  an  inconsiderable  trade  in  gold  dust.  Before  the  late  revolution 
the  Spanish  part  of  the  island  contained  100,000  inhabitants,  30,000  of 
whom  were  slaves,  and  they  worked  200,000  oxen. 

San  Domingo  was  the  first  town  founded  by  Europeans  in  America. 
In  the  Cathedral  of  this  city  are  deposited,  in  two  leaden  coffins,  the  ashes 
of  Christopher  Columbus  and  his  brother.  Hence  issued  the  expeditions 
that  conquered  Mexico  and  Peru,  and  performed  the  other  Spanish  ex- 
ploits upon  the  two  American  continents.  The  other  principal  towns  in 
the  Spanish  part  of  the  island  are  San  Yago  and  La  Vega. 

The  French  formerly  possessed  in  this  island  an  extent  of  territory 
equal  to  1,700  square  leagues.  We  may  judge  of  the  former  value  of 
this  colony  to  France,  when  we  are  informed  that  on  121  square  leagues 
the  value  of  the  staples  raised  was  supposed  to  be  worth,  in  France, 
£7,487,375.  At  that  time  there  were  in  this  part  of  the  island  450,000 
negroes.  Cape  Francois  has  been  denominated  Cape  Henry  by  the  Negro 
King  Christophe.  Every  one  has  read  of  the  terrible  revolution,  in 
which  the  negroes  and  mulattoes  in  turn  desolated  this  island,  in  throw- 
ing off  the  yoke  of  their  former  masters.  The  whole  island  is  now  under- 
stood to  be  united  under  one  head.  The  colored  people  have  established 
schools  and  sound  political  regulations,  and  have  managed  with  great 
wisdom  and  discretion  of  policy,  and  have  given  unquestionable  proofs 
that  they  are  capable  of  self-government.  The  government  carries  on 
trade  with  the  x4mericans,  English,  and  Danes;  and  possesses  a well  dis- 
ciplined army,  and  efficient  revenues,  and  is  supposed  to  be  rapidly  grow- 
ing in  wealth  and  political  power. 

Porto  Rico,  situated  eastward  of  Hispaniola,  is  the  next  island  in  the 
chain  of  the  Antilles.  It  is  120  miles  in  length  by  40  in  breadth.  Its 
mountains  are  not  so  high  as  those  of  St.  Domingo.  Herds  of  wild  dogs 
roaming  on  the  mountains,  are  supposed  to  be  remains  of  the  same  race 
that  the  Spaniards  employed  in  hunting  down  the  natives.  The  wide 
savannas,  in  the  interior  and  near  the  northern  coast,  are  fertile . Many 
cascades  in  the  mountains  add  to  the  beauty  of  these  healthier  districts. 
The  low  lands  are  unhealthy  during  the  rainy  season.  But  the  land  is 
fruitful,  and  well  watered  with  numerous  rivulets.  Gold  was  formerly 


182 


WEST  INDIES. 


found  in  considerable  abundance.  Excellent  timber,  ginger,  sugar,  cof- 
fee,  cotton,  flax,  hides,  and  the  different  kinds  of  incense  so  much  used 
in  Catholic  countries,  are  among  the  productions  of  the  island.  Its 
mules  are  very  valuable,  and  it  carries  on  a very  considerable  trade  in  to- 
bacco, salt,  rice,  maize,  cassia,  oranges,  gourds,  and  melons.  The  capi- 
tal, St.  Juan  de  Porto  Rico,  is  built  on  a small  island  on  the  northern 
coast.  It  has  a convenient  harbor,  and  is  a town  of  considerable  import- 
ance. Aguadilla  is  a place  comparatively  salubrious.  San  Germano  is 
inhabited  by  the  ancient  and  rich  families.  A few  years  since  the  popu- 
lation of  the  island,  slaves  and  freemen,  amounted  to  31,000.  It  has 
remained  firmly  loyal  to  the  King  of  Spain. 

Bahamas  are  separated  from  the  continent  by  the  Gulf  of  Florida,  be- 
tween which  and  these  isles  sweeps  the  broad  and  rapid  current  of  the 
gulf  stream.  What  has  been  called  the  old  channel  divides  them  from 
Cuba.  Their  number  exceeds  500.  Many  of  them  are  no  more  than 
barren  rocks.  But  12  of  the  most  populous  and  fertile  contain  13,000 
inhabitants.  The  larger  islands  are  fertile,  and  the  soil  not  unlike  that  of 
the  Carolinas.  The  slaves  are  used  with  great  humanity.  Cotton,  in- 
digo, tortoise  shell,  ambergris,  mahogany,  logwood,  and  different  kinds  of 
fruit  are  exported  from  these  islands.  In  time  of  war  these  islands  are 
situated  favorably  for  the  entanglement  of  prize  vessels,  and  these  laby- 
rinths of  shoals  and  rocks  at  all  times  bring  up  vast  numbers  of  wrecks, 
Turk’s  Island  is  owned  by  the  English,  and  is  famous  for  its  salt.  The 
Virgin  Islands  of  this  group  were  so  named  by  Columbus,  in  honor  of  the 
eleven  thousand  virgins  of  the  Romish  ritual. 

Santa  Cruz  belongs  to  the  Danes,  whose  industry,  wisdom,  and  good 
policy  have  rendered  their  possessions  in  these  seas  of  great  value.  St. 
Thomas  is  also  an  important  commercial  station.  The  two  islands  are 
supposed  to  contain  from  36  to  40  square  leagues,  with  a population  of 
1,000  souls  to  each  square  league.  The  nett  revenue  amounts  to  100,000 
rix  dollars.  Some  of  the  plantations  are  supposed  to  be  worth  £60,000. 
The  storehouses  are  loaded  with  merchandise,  brought  from  Europe  and 
America.  Christianstadt  is  the  capital  of  Santa  Cruz.  The  small  isl- 
and of  St.  John  is  fertile,  and  comparatively  healthy.  There  are  said  to 
be  71,459  acres  of  good  land  in  the  Danish  islands,  of  which  32,014  are 
in  sugar  plantations,  and  1,358  in  cotton.  The  sugar  is  of  the  finest 
quality,  and  the  rum  equal  to  that  of  Jamaica. 

Anguilla,  or  Snakes  island,  so  called  from  its  long  and  crooked  form, 
belongs  to  the  English.  The  inhabitants  raise  maize  and  cattle,  and 
make  considersble  salt.  It  is  ten  leagues  long  by  three  in  average 
breadth. 


WEST  INDIES. 


183 


St.  Martin’s,  belongs  partly  to  the  French,  and  partly  to  the  Dutch. 
Its  chief  revenue  arises  from  its  salt.  Many  of  the  settlers  are  of  English 
origin. 

St.  Bartholomew  belongs  to  Sweden.  It  lies  between  St.  Christopher, 
Anguilla  and  St.  Eustatia.  Gustavia  is  the  chief  town.  The  exports 
consist  of  cassia,  tamarinds  and  sassafras. 

St.  Eustatia  is  about  two  leagues  long  by  one  in  breadth,  and  belongs 
to  the  Dutch.  The  population  on  this  small  spot,  amounts  to  nearly 
12,000,  including  slaves.  Saba,  adjoining  St.  Eustatia,  is  twelve  miles  in 
circumference,  and  is  difficult  of  access,  except  for  small  vessels.  On  the 
hills  in  this  island  is  an  agreeable  valley,  watered  by  frequent  showers, 
which  render  it  in  the  highest  degreee  fertile.  The  climate  is  healthy, 
and  the  Dutch  affirm,  that  the  European  women  retain  their  complexions 
longer,  than  in  any  other  of  the  West  India  islands.  The  following  islands 
all  belong  to  the  British. 

Antigua  is  seven  leagues  long  by  as  many  in  breadth.  If  contains 
59,838  acres,  of  which  34,000  are  pasturage,  or  sugar  plantations..  This 
island  has  recently  been  fortified,  and  has  become  of  importance.  The 
inhabitants  amount  to  40,000,  of  whom  35,000  are  slaves.  The  chief 
town  is  St.  John,  in  which  resides  the  English  governor  of  the  Leeward 
islands.  The  exports,  which  consist  of  sugar,  ginger  and  tobacco,  are 
very  variable,  as  regards  quantity.  In  1788,  no  rain  fell  for  seven  months, 
and  the  inhabitants  would  all  have  perished  of  famine,  had  they  not  been 
supplied  from  abroad.  Barbuda  is  12  leagues  north  of  Antigua,  and 
contains  1,500  inhabitants.  The  air  is  so  salubrious,  that  it  is  a resort 
for  invalids.  Turtles  are  found  on  the  shore,  and  deer  and  different  sorts 
of*game  in  the  woods. 

St.  Christopher’s  is  42  miles  in  circumference.  It  affords  the  finest 
sugar  land  of  any  in  the  West  Indies.  It  contains  28,000  souls,  and  the 
proportion  of  freemen  to  slaves  is  as  1 to  13.  Nevis  and  Montserat  are 
two  small,  and  very  fertile  adjacent  islands. 

Guadaloupe  consists  of  two  small  islands,  separated  by  a narrow  chan- 
nel. Grand  Terre  is  6 leagues  long  by  14  in  breadth;  and  Basse  Terre 
is  15  leagues  long  by  14  broad.  Three  small  islands,  Desiderade  on  the 
east,  Marie  Galante  on  the  southeast,  and  Isles  des  Saintes  on  the  south, 
are  subject  to  the  governor  of  Gaudaloupe.  All  these  islands  contain 
334,142  acres,  and  159,000  souls.  There  are  several  volcanic  moun- 
tains in  Basse-Terre,  of  which  one  only  emits  clouds  of  smoke.  Basse 
Terre  is  agreeably  diversified  by  hills,  woods,  gardens,  and  enclosures, 
which  form  a striking  contrast  with  the  marshy  and  sterile  land  on  the 
eastern  island.  There  is  a vrarm  spring  near  Goave,  whose  temperature 


184 


WEST  INDIES. 


is  sufficient  to  boil  eggs.  The  bees  in  this  island  are  black,  and  their 
honey  of  a purple  color. 

Basse  Terre,  the  chief  town,  is  adorned  with  many  fine  buildings,  foun- 
tains and  public  gardens.  Point  a Petre,  the  metropolis  of  Grand  Terre, 
is  unhealthy,  from  the  contiguity  of  marshes;  but  it  has  one  of  the  finest 
harbors  in  the  West  Indies.  Desirade  is  famed  for  its  cotton.  Coffee 
and  sugar  are  cultivated  on  the  hills  of  Marie,  Galante.  Dominica  so 
called  by  Columbus,  from  being  discovered  on  the  Sabbath,  is  situated 
between  Gaudeloupe  and  Martinico.  The  soil  is  well  adapted  for  the 
growth  of  coffee.  The  hills,  from  which  several  rivers  descend,  are  cover- 
ed with  the  finest  woods  in  the  West  Indies.  On  account  of  its  import- 
ance, this  island  has  been  raised  to  a distinct  government.  The  staples 
are  maize,  cotton,  cocoa  and  tobacco. 

Martinico,  formerly  the  most  important  French  island  in  these  seas, 
now  belongs  to  the  British.  The  extent  of  cultivable  surface  is  about 
212,142  acres.  It  has  many  steep  mountains  and  ruggedrocks.  Pitou 
de  Corbet  is  the  highest.  The  loftiest  and  most  abundant  palm  trees  are 
near  its  summit.  This  island  is  better  supplied  with  water,  and  less  sub- 
ject to  hurricanes,  than  Gaudeloupe.  The  productions  of  both  islands  are 
nearly  the  same.  Its  population  is  estimated  about  100,000.  Port  Royal, 
the  chief  town,  has  a spacious  harbor.  St.  Peter’s  town,  in  this  island,  is 
the  most  commercial  town  in  the  lesser  Antilles,  and  contains  30,000  in- 
habitants, St.  Lucia  has  a fertile  soil , but  a warm  and  unhealthy  climate. 
It  has  a population  of  20,000  souls.  Garenage  is  the  best  sea  port  in  St 
Lucia.  Thirty  sail  of  the  line  might  there  be  sheltered  from  hurricanes. 
The  town  is  small,  and  unhealthy.  St.  Vincents,  south  of  St.  Lucia,  is 
remarkable  for  its  fertility,  and  produces  a great  quantity  of  sugar  and*in- 
digo.  The  bread  tree,  brought  from  Otaheite,  has  here  succeeded  en- 
tirely. In  1812,  there  was  an  eruption  of  one  of  the  volcanic  mountains 
of  this  island.  The  eastern  coast  is  peopled  by  the  black  Caribees,  a 
race  descended  from  the  aborigines,  and  fugitive  negroes.  The  English 
population  amounts  to  23,000,  chiefly  slaves.  Kingston  is  the  residence 
of  the  governor,  whose  jurisdiction  extends  over  several  of  the  adjacent 
islands.  The  Grenadines  are  a group  of  contiguous  islands,  united  to 
each  other  by  a ridge  of  calcareous  rocks,  that  appear  to  have  been  form- 
ed by  marine  insects.  Cariacon  and  Isle  Ronde  are  the  principal.  They 
are  small,  but  fertile  and  well  cultivated.  Grenada  is  situated  near  the 
Grenadines,  and  contains  31,272  souls.  A lake  on  the  summit  of  a 
central  mountain  is  the  source  of  many  rivers,  that  adorn  and  fertilize 
the  island.  Hurricanes  are  little  known.  At  this  island  terminates  the 
chain  of  the  antilles.  Barbadoes,  Tobago  and  Trinidad  form  a distinct 
group. 


WEST  INDIES. 


185 


Barbadoes,  is  the  easternmost  island  in  the  West  Indies.  It  is  21 
miles  long,  and  14  broad,  and  of  great  fertility.  The  population  is  cal- 
culated at  90,000.  The  governor  resides  at  Bridgetown,  the  chief 
town  in  Barbadoes.  This  harbor  is  nearer  the  eastern  continent,  than 
any  other  in  the  Antilles. 

Tobago  is  8 leagues  Northeast  from  Trinidad.  The  chain  of  mountains 
on  these  islands,  from  its  geological  formation,  is  supposed  to  be  a con- 
tinuation of  the  mountains  ofCumana.  The  position  of  Tobago  gives  it 
great  importance,  and  it  might  become  highly  productive.  The  finest 
fruits  of  the  tropics  grow  here.  Fine  figs  and  guavas,  ananas,  nutmegs, 
gumcopal,  and  five  different  sorts  of  pepper  are  among  its  productions 
A harbor  on  the  east,  and  another  on  the  west  coast  are  sheltered  from  ev- 
ery wind.  The  population  amounts  to  18,000. 

Trinidad  lies  between  Tobago  and  South  America.  This  island  is  65 
miles  from  east  to  whst,  and  50  from  north  to  south.  It  produces  sugar, 
coffee,  cocoa,  woad,  tobacco,  indigo,  ginger,  a variety  of  fine  fruits,  maize 
and  cedar  wood.  There  is  a remarkable  bituminous  lake,  situated  on 
the  western  coast.  It  is  80  feet  above  the  sea,  and  three  leagues  in  cir- 
cumference. Small  islands,  covered  with  plants  and  shrubs,  arise  from 
its  bosom,  and  often  disappear.  The  bituminous  matter  of  this  lake  is 
used  for  naval  purposes  instead  of  pitch.  Trinidad  is  important  from  its 
fertility,  its  extent  and  position,  which  commands  the  Oronoco,  and  the 
Dragon’s  mouth,  the  narrow  passage  between  it  and  the  mainland,  from 
which  it  appears  to  have  been  lorn  by  some  convulsion  of  nature.  St. 
Joseph  de  Guma,  the  nominal  capital,  is  only  a village,  and  consists  of  2 
or  390  neatly  built  houses.  Chagacamus,  the  greatest  sea  port,  contains 
28,000  inhabitants.  From  the  size  and  fertility  of  Trinidad,  ithas  been  sup- 
posed, that  it  might  produce  more  sugar,  than  the  whole  of  the  leeward 
islands.  It  possesses,  also,  with  Tobago  the  advantage  of  being  out  of 
the  ordinary  reach  of  hurricanes.  The  foregoing  islands  are  all  under  the 
dominion  of  Great  Britain. 

The  Dutch  own  three  islands  on  the  coast  of  South  America.  The 
most  considerable  is  Curacoa  12  leagues  long  and  3 broad.  The  land  is 
arid  and  sterile;  and  there  is  but  one  well  in  the  island,  the  water  from 
which  is  sold  at  a high  price.  On  this  light  and  rocky  soil  the  Dutch 
have  planted  sugar  cane  and  tobacco.  The  salt  works  yield  a consid- 
erable revenue.  But  the  wealth  of  the  island  depends  on  its  contra- 
band trade.  Williamstead  the  capital,  is  one  of  the  neatest  towns  in  the 
West  Indies.  The  public  buildings  are  magnificent,  and  the  private 
houses  commodious.  The  clean  streets  remind  the  traveller,  that  he  is 
in  a Dutch  town.  The  port  of  Curacoa  is  spacious.  The  inhabitants  of 
the  island  amount  to  12,890.  The  great  proportion  as  in  the  other 
Vofc,  II.  24 


186 


WEST  INDIES. 


West  India  islands,  are  slaves.  The  colonists  of  Bonair  and  Aruba,  two 
small  adjacent  islands,  employ  themselves  chiefly  in  raising  cattle. 

The  trade,  which  has  been  carried  on  in  this  great  Archipelago,  above 
described,  has  tended  more  to  advance  the  industry,  and  extend  tho 
commerce  of  those  European  countries,  which  have  been  connected  with 
these  islands,  than  all  the  gold  and  silver  of  the  two  Americas.  Before 
the  abolition  of  the  slave  trade,  the  British  introduced  20,000  slaves, 
annually,  into  their  colonies.  The  value  of  sugar,  annually  imported 
into  England,  is  valued  at  £7,003,285.  1,200,000  puncheons  of  rum 

are  annually  distilled  in  the  British  islands.  In  1S04,  that  country 
obtained  from  the  Antilles  20,529,878  lbs.  of  cotton. 

This  immense  wealth  is,  however,  the  price  of  blood.  Notwithstanding 
the  increase  of  humanity  in  the  laws,  and  in  the  planters,  the  excessive 
mortality  of  the  miserable  slaves  shows  ihe  nature  of  their  condition. 
In  their  native  Africa  they  rapidly  multiply,  although  that  climate  is 
more  humid  and  unhealthy,  than  that  of  these  islands.  Interest,  it  will  be 
easily  seen,  will  tend  to  impel  the  planters  to  do  every  thing  for  the 
preservation  of  their  slaves.  But  the  misery  of  exile,  servitude,  and  all 
the  bodily  torments,  to  which  they  are  exposed,  will  continue  to  shorten 
their  existence;  and  the  race  in  all  these  islands  is  constantly  on  tho 
decrease.  There  is  no  way  to  supply  the  deficiency,  but  the  revolting 
and  unchristian  enormity  of  fresh  importations. 

The  negroes,  it  has  been  affirmed,  are  stubborn  and  revengeful,  not  to 
be  subdued  by  mild  treatment,  but  to  be  driven  by  the  lash.  They  are, 
in  fact,  ignorant,  docile,  gentle,  patient  and  submissive.  Cruel  men, 
malefactors  and  outcasts  from  Europe,  have  been  raised  to  be  their  over- 
seers, and  have  treated  them  as  beasts  of  burden.  Spanish  writers  have 
seriously  maintained,  that  the  negroes  and  indians  have  no  souls;  and 
there  is  too  much  reason  to  believe,  that  such  reasonings  have  led  to  the 
treatment,  they  have  received.  There  must  be  laws  to  protect  the  slaves 
from  outrage.  They  must  be  rendered  capable  of  acquiring  property. 
Marriage  must  be  rendered  a valid  and  sacred  tie,  to  prevent  the  vile 
disease  and  misery  of  their  present  condition.  Their  children  must  be 
educated,  and  gradually  brought  within  reach  of  the  guidance  and  hopes 
of  Christianity.  Then  they  might  have  reason  to  regard  life  with  cheer- 
fulness and  hope,  and  love;  and  industriously  to  cultivate  the  soil,  they 
have  so  long  watered  with  their  tears. 

The  following  most  impressive  and  graphic  account  of  a bright 
morning,  and  of  a hurricane  in  the  Antilles  is  copied  entire  from  Malte 
Brun. 

In  order  to  make  our  readers  better  acquainted  with  this  country,  we 
shall  attempt  to  describe  a morning  in  the  Antilles.  For  this  purpose. 


WEST  INDIES. 


187 


let  us  watch  the  moment,  when  the  sun,  appearing  through  a serene 
atmosphere,  illumines  with  her  rays  the  summits  of  the  mountains,  and 
gilds  the  leaves  of  the  plantain  and  orange  trees.  The  plants  are  spread 
over  with  gossamer  of  fine  and  transparent  silk,  or  gemmed  with  dew 
drops,  and  the  vivid  hues  of  industrious  insects,  reflecting  unnumbered 
tints  from  the  rays  of  the  sun.  The  aspect  of  the  richly  cultivated  valleys 
is  different,  but  not  less  pleasing;  the  whole  of  nature  teems  with  the 
most  varied  productions.  It  often  happens,  .after  the  sun  has  dissi 
pated  the  mist  above  the  crystal  expanse  of  the  ocean,  that  the  scene  is 
changed  by  an  optical  illusion.  The  spectator  observes  sometimes  a 
sand-bank  rising  out  of  the  deep,  or  distant  canoes  in  the  red  clouds, 
floating  in  an  aerial  sea,  while  their  shadows  at  the  same  time  are  accu- 
rately delineated  below  them.  This  phenomenon,  to  which  the  French 
have  given  the  name  of  mirage,  is  not  uncommon  in  equatorial  climates. 
Europeans  may  admire  the  views  in  this  archipelago,  during  the  cool 
temperature  of  the  morning;  the  lofty  mountains  are  adorned  with  thick 
foliage;  the  hills,  from  their  summits  to  the  very  borders  of  the  sea,  are 
fringed  with  plants  of  never  fading  verdure;  the  mills  and  sugar-works 
near  them  are  obscured  bv  their  branches  or  buried  in  their  shade.  The 
appearance  of  the  vallies  is  remarkable;  to  form  even  an  imperfect  idea 
of  it,  we  must  group  together  the  palm  tree,  the  cocoa  nut  and  mountain 
cabbage  with  the  tamarind,  the  orange  and  the  waning  plumes  of  the 
bamboo  cane.  On  these  plains  we  may  observe  the  bushy  oleander,  all 
the  varieties  of  the  Jerusalem  thorn  and  African  rose,  the  bright  scarlet 
of  the  cordium,  bowers  of  jessamine  and  grenadilla  vines,  and  the  silver 
and  silky  leaves  of  the  portlandia.  Fields  of  sugar  cane,  the  houses  of 
the  planters,  the  huts  of  the  negroes,  and  the  distant  coast  lined  with 
ships,  add  to  the  beauty  of  a West  Indian  land-scape.  At  sunrise,  when 
no  breeze  ripples  the  surface  of  the  ocean,  it  is  frequently  so  transparent, 
that  one  can  perceive,  as  if  there  were  no  intervening  medium,  the 
channel  of  the  water,  and  observe  the  shell-fish  scattered  on  the  rocks, 
and  the  medusas  reposing  on  the  sand. 

A hurricane  is  generally  preceded  by  an  awful  stillness  of  the  elements; 
the  air  becomes  close  and  heavy,  the  sun  is  red,  and  the  stars  at  night 
seem  unusually  large.  Frequent  changes  take  place  in  the  thermometer^ 
which  sometimes  rises  from  80°  to  S0°.  Darkness  extends  over  the 
earth;  the  higher  regions  gleam  with  lightning. 

The  impending  storm  is  first  observed  on  the  sea.  Foaming  mountain 
waves  rise  suddenly  from  its  clear  and  motionless  surface.  The  wind 
rages  with  unrestrained  fury;  its  noise  may  be  compared  to  the  distant 
thunder.  The  rain  descends  in  torrents,  shrubs,  and  lofty  trees  are  borne 
down,  by  the  mountain  streams,  the  rivers  overflow  their  banks,  and 


186 


WEST  INDIES. 


submerge  the  plains.  Terror  and  consternation  seem  to  pervade  the 
whole  of  animated  nature,  land  birds  are  driven  into  the  ocean,  and 
those,  whose  aliment  is  the  sea,  seek  for  refuge  in  the  woods.  The 
frighted  beasts  of  the  field  herd  together,  or  roam  in  vain  for  a place  of 
shelter.  It  is  not  a contest  of  two  opposite  winds,  or  a roaring  ocean, 
that  shakes  the  earth;  all  the  elements  are  thrown  into  confusion,  the 
equilibrium  of  the  atmosphere  seems,  as  if  it  were  destroyed;  and  nature 
appears  to  hasten  to  her  ancient  chaos.  Scenes  of  desolation  have  been 
disclosed  in  these  islands  by  the  morning  sun — uprooted  trees,  branches 
shivered  from  their  trunks,  the  roofs  of  the  houses  have  been  strewed 
over  the  land.  The  planter  is  sometimes  unable  to  distinguish  the  place 
of  his  former  possessions.  Fertile  vallies  may  be  changed  in  a few 
hours  into  dreary  wastes,  covered  with  the  carcasses  of  domestic  animals, 
£tnd  the  fowls  of  heaven. 


AFPEIBIXo 


Area  of  the  country  watered  by  the  principal  rivers  and  branches  in 
the  United  States. 

Square  Miles . 

Missouri  Territory,  I - - - - - 698,000 

Missouri,  - - - - - 60,300 

Arkansas  Territory,  -----  121,000 

Louisiana,  £ - - - - - - 36,000 

North-West  Territory,  i 72,000 

Illinois,  T%\  ------  58,310 

Indiana,  £§  - - - - - 34,940 

Ohio,  - - - - - - 30,800 

Pennsylvania,  •§----  14,650 

New  York,  ------  480 

Maryland,  - - - - - 110 

Virginia,  § - - - - - 25,600 

Kentucky,  ------  39,000 

North  Carolina,  - - - - - 900 

Tennessee,  ------  41,300 

South  Carolina,  T|T  - - - 200 

Georgia,  - - 380 

Alabama,  ^ - - - - - - 7,250 

Mississippi,  i - . 22,670 


Total,  1,263,870 

Valley  of  the  Missouri,  - 674,000 

Valley  of  the  Mississippi  above  the  mouth  of  Ohio,  - 225,000 

Valley  of  the  Ohio  and  its  waters,  - - - 205,000 

Valley  of  the  Mississippi  and  its  waters,  below  the  mouth  of 

Ohio,  - - 290,000 


1,394,000 


100 


APPENDIX. 


Missouri,  from  its  source  to  its  junction  with  the  Yellow 


Stone,  -----  6S0 

Do.  to  its  junction  with  the  Mississippi,  - - 1370 

2050 

Mississippi  Proper,  from  its  source  to  its  junction  with 

the  Missouri,  -----  - 780 

Allegheny  River,  the  higest  source  of  the  Ohio,  to  its 

junction  with  the  Monongahela,  - - 200 

Do.  to  is  junction  with  the  Mississppi,  - - 680 

880 

Mississippi,  from  the  junction  with  the  Missouri  to  its 

outlet,  S10 

Greatest  length  of  the  Mississippi  from  its  outlet  to  highest 

point  of  the  Missouri,  ...  2060 

Do.  to  the  highest  point  of  Mississippi  Proper,  - 1690 

Do.  to  the  highest  point  of  the  Ohio,  - - 1790 

TRIBUTARY  STREAMS. 

Of  the  Missouri — Yellow  Stone,  - - - 5S2 

La  Platte,  790 

Kansas.,  - 630 

Osage,  - 480 

Of  Ohic — Monongahela,  - 120 

Cumberland,  ....  400 

Tennessee,  - 470 

Of  Mississippi,  below  Missouri — 

White  River,  - - - 470 

Arkansas,  - 1380 

Red  River,  . - - 1080 


APPENDIX.  191 


TABLE  NO.  T. 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


Sachet’s  1 
Harbor. 
43  55  N 
1 00  E. 

Detroit.  ' 
42  SON. 
548  W 

Prairie  des 
Ghiens. 
42  33  N. 
14  38  N. 

Council 
Bluffs. 
41  31  N. 
19  45  W. 

1818. 

1820. 

H. 

L. 

M 

H. 

L. 

M 

H. 

L. 

M 

H. 

L. 

M 

Jan. 

30 

12 

23 

4 4 

4 

24 

40 

22 

9 

Feb. 

57 

0 

32 

42 

2 

17 

71 

§ 

30 

March 

84 

9 

33 

81 

0 

32 

70 

0 

34 

April 

74 

22 

45 

32 

88 

41 

88 

12 

57 

94 

24 

38 

May 

70; 

22 

52 

81 

34 

53, 

90 

39 

81 

90 

50 

89 

June 

84 

50 

85 

86 

51 

70 

99 

50 

75 

99 

55 

74 

1820. 

July 

87 

58 

73 

92 

85 

39 

90 

54 

74 

97 

58 

75 

Aug. 

85 

54 

71 

94 

32 

75 

94 

54 

72 

105 

59 

75 

Sept. 

87 

44 

66 

92 

47 

71 

90 

32 

84 

92 

42 

63 

Oct. 

76 

30 

52 

74 

30 

51 

70 

20 

44 

80 

22 

47 

Nov. 

80 

20 

41 

80 

24 

40 

80 

—6 

33 

59 

—4 

34 

Dec. 

58 

9 

26 

48 

6 

27 

33 

—14 

16 

50 

—5 

18 

Mean 

of  the 

48°  6' 

47°  4' 

incomplete 

49°  2‘ 

* 

year. 

— Signifies  below  zero 


192 


APPENDIX, 


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The  highest,  lowest,  and  mean  heat  for  each  month,  at  different  situa- 
tions, will  be  shown  by  the  following  table: 

Note. — N.  stands  for  North  latitude,  E.  for  East  longitude  and  W. 
for  West  longitude,  H.  for  highest,  L.  for  lowest,  and  M for  mean  tem- 
perature. 


appendix- 


193 


METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


Fernan- 
dina.  FI. 
1820. 
30  45  N. 
4 37  W. 

Fort 
Scott. 
1820. 
30  43  N. 
7 23  W. 

I N.  Or- 
leans. 
1820. 
30  00  N. 
13 10W. 

Baton 
Rouge 
1820. 
30  3oN. 
15  14  Wj 

Camp 
Ripley 
1820. 
31  18  N. 
16  SOW. 

H 

L 

M 

H 

L 

M 

H 

L 

M 

H 

L |M 

H 

L 

M 

Jan. 

79 

35 

55 

74 

32 

55 

Feb. 

78 

50 

55 

72 

31 

81 

78 

51 

84 

March 

70 

50 

84 

78138 

66 

78 

32 

31 

April 

85 

45 

72 

89 

44 

68 

78 

58 

73 

86 

42 

70 

87 

55 

76 

May 

88 

61 

74 

88 

56 

74 

87 

72 

79 

90 

58 

75 

88 

54  76 

June 

87 

87 

78 

91 

50 

78 

91 

72' 

88 

94 

80 

81 

92 

57 

|78 

July 

87 

71 

80 

91 

80 

70 

90 

SO 

82 

■9-0 

70 

79 

93 

72 

81 

Aug. 

88 

70 

79 

92 

6S 

80 

92 

78 

85 

92 

74 

33 

'94 

65  8.2 

Sept. 

87 

73 

80 

80 

85 

751 

38 

71 

81 

SS 

34 

77 

92 

5677 

Oct. 

85 

50 

89 

89 

60 

70 

34 

45 

85 

88 

40 

37 

85 

4866 

Nov. 

7643 

84 

78 

40 

60 

75 

39 

57 

8 4 

36 

31 

84 

32  60 

Dec. 

75|50 

61 

84 

32 

59 

77 

39 

80 

76140 

80 

79 

28,53 

Mean  of 
he  year 

70° 

r 

68°  r 

incom- 
i plete. 

incom- 

plete. 

incom- 

plete. 

METEOROLOGICAL  TABLE. 


Average 

at 

General 

Average. 

Highest,  and  place  of 
observation. 

Lowest,  and  place 
of  observation. 

o 

bO 

a 

cS 

P 3 

7 

2 

9 

Jan. 

25 

33 

29 

29 

79  Fernandina 

| — 30  St.  Peters 

109 

Feb. 

March 

41 

49 

44 

45 

78  Belle  Fontaine 

10  St.  Peters 

88 

April 

56 

66 

60 

61 

94  Council  Bluffs 

10  St.  Peters 

84 

May 

June 

70 

84 

74 

76 

99Prairie  des  Chiens 

50  Ditto. 

49 

July 

Aug. 

73 

81 

75 

78 

*105  Council  Bluffs 

30  St.  Peters 

69 

Sept. 

87176 

70 

71 

99  Ditto. 

20  Prairie  du  Chien 

68 

Oct. 

5260 

58 

56 

88  Baton  Rouge 

Nov. 

4250 

46 

46 

—7  St.  Peters 

91 

Dec. 

| 

Gen. 

52162 

56 

57 

*105  Sunday,  13th 

It  — 30  Sunday, 

136 

Mean.  - 

1 

of  August. 

;30th  of  January. 

Vol.  II,  25 


194 


' APPENDIX. 


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Pemperate  climate 
| Hotest  climate. 

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Si.  Peters,  11  months 

Sacket’s  Harbor 

Prairie  des  Chiens,  9 months 

Council  Bluffs 

Detroit,  0 months 

Pittsburgh 

Fernandina 

{Baton  Rouge,  11  months 

APPENDIX. 


195 


TABLE,  NO.  2. 

TREES  COMMON  TO  LOUISIANA 


Red  flowering  maple 

Black  sugar  maple 

Box  elder 

Peach 

Red  lead 

Pawpaw 

Large  cane 

Black  birch 

Catalpa 

Prickly  pear 

Iron  wood 

Horn  beam 

Chincapin 

Blackberry 

Laurier  almond 

Wild  cherry 

Palmetto,  or  latania 

Sweet  orange 

Dog  wood 

Swamp  dog  wood 

Cypress 

Persimon 

Beech 

Red  ash 

Water  ash 

Water  locust 

Honey  locust 

I-Ioljy 

Butternut 

Butternut  hickory 

Swamp  hickory 

Thick  shell  bark  hickory 

Nutmeg  hickory 

Black  walnut 

Pignut  hickory 

Shellbark  hickory 


Poplar 

White  bay 

Large  laurel 

Mulberry 

Spanish  mulberry 

Common  culinary  salt 

Tupeloo 

Black  gum 

Buckeye 

Pitch  pine 

Loblolly  pine 

Cotton  wood 

Sycamore 

Poke 

White  oak 
Water  oak 
Spanish  oak 
Black  jack  oak 
Swamp  white  oak 
Overcup  oak 
Post  oak 
Willow  oak 
Red  oak 
Black  oak 
Live  oak 
Black  locust 
Dwarf  locust 
Bistinean  locust 
Blackberry 
Red  berried  elder 
Downy  Linden 
Mucilaginous  elm 
Red  elm 
Swamp  elm 
Large  leaved  elm 
Large  whortleberry 


198 


APPENDIX. 


Red  cedar 
Sassafras 
Spice  wood 
Red  bay 
Sweet  gum 


Tree  whortleberry 

Cranberry 

Muscadine 

Parsley  leaved  water  grape  vine 
River  grape  vine. 


TABLE,  NO.  3. 

FLORA  OF  LOUISVILLE. 


Amaranth,  pellitory  leaved 
White 
Clustered 
Alamasco,  lily 
Bastard  indigo 
Peach,  common 
Maple,  sugar 
red 

Pennsylvania 
Box,  elder 
Althea 
Asparagus 

Swallow  wort,  oval  leaved 
Virginia  silk 
flesh  colored 
variegated 

Pleurisy  root 
Spring  grass 
Squaw  root 
Bane  berry 
Angelica  tree 
Aralia,  berry-bearing 
naked  stemmed 
Pawpaw  tree 
Ascyrum 

St.  Andrew’s  cross 
Wall  cress,  lyre  leaved 
Canadian 
common 


Nightshade,  deadly 
Garlic,  common 
shallot 

Onion,  common 
Garlic,  field,  crow 
Cane,  great 
Reed  grass 
Cockle,  corn 

Honeysuckle,  wild,  red,  white 
Snake  root,  Virginia 
Dutchman’s  pipe 
Dog's  bane,  tustan  leaved 
hemp 

Ambrosia,  tall 

simple  leaved 
mugwort 
Arethusa,  bulbous 
drooping 

Agrimony,  small  flowered 
wood 
hairy 
smooth 
Chamomile,  garden 
wild 

Beard  grass 

nodding 

Anemone,  wild,  Virginia 
meadow 
Oats,  common 


APPENDIX, 


Toad  flax,  common 
Canadian 
Plantain,  water 
Buckeye,  yellow 
common 
Andromeda 
Bed  bud 

Moor  wort,  broad  leaved 
Flag,  sweet,  calamus 
Columbine,  Canadian 
Burdock,  common 
Starwort,  divar  icat 

solidago-like 
hyssop-leaved 
heath.-leaved 
toad-flax  leaved 
flax-leaved 
one-colored 
red-flowered 
heart-leaved 
smooth 
large-leaved 
small,  white 
P.  wort-like 
imperial 
Millfoil,  common 
Turnip,  Indian 
Virginian 
Ginger,  wild 
Cabbage 
Turnip 
Birch,  black 
Hazel,  elder 
Beet,  common 
Catalpa,  tree 
Trumpet,  creeper 
Berberry,  Canadian 

three  flowered 
Bertolina,  rough 
Burr  marigold 
Do.  do.  nodding 

Do.  do.  large  flowered 


Fennel,  common 
Parsley,  common  kitchen 
Celery,  common 
Foxtail  grass,  meadow 
Pimpernal,  field 
Orach,  spreading 
Angelica,  purple 
common 

Devil’s  bit,  white 
Mug  wort,  grey 
Arstida,  erect 
Chincapin,  tree 
Hornbeam,  American 
Bed  pepper,  long 
Hazel  nut 

Traveller’s  joy,  Virginia 
striate 

Dog  wood,  Virginian 
Canadian 
upright 

Bed  rod,  American  Cornell 
Comptonia,  fern  leaved 
Celandine,  great 
Claytonia,  Virginian 
lanceolata 
Solomon’s  seal 
Do.  sweet  scented 
Bed  root,  New  Jersey  tea 
Marsh  cinquefoil 
Buttonwood 
W ax  work 
Love  vine,  clasping 
Sedge,  plantain  leaved 
bristly 
erect 

Senna,  Maryland 
dwarf 

Bell  flower,  pointed  leaf 
perfoliate 
Sweet  weed 
Cunila,  mint  leaved 
Cockspur 


193 


APPENDIX, 


Do.  do,  bipinnate 
Boehmeria 
Thyme,  Virginian 
Quaking  grass 

American 
scarlet  * 

Strawberry  blite,  slender 
Hackberry 
Red  bud,  Judas’  tree 
Nightshade,  common 
Chesnut,  common  American 
Hemp,  common 
Hound’s  tongue 
Commelina,  Virginian 
Collinsonia,  two-colored 
common 

Collinsia 
Sweet  Potatoe 
Bindweed,  field,  common 
creeping 
head-bearing 
Thom  grass 
Centaurella 
Centuary,  angular  leaf 
Hemlock 

water 
Jerusalem  oak 
Wild  orach 
Chickweek,  common 
field 

Cacalia 

glaucous 

Cucularia 

Lady’s  smock,  Pennsylvania 
Do.  narrow  leaved 
Do.  Virginian 
Shrub 

sweet  scented 
Coral  honeysuckle 
Melon,  musk 
Cucumber,  common 
Cowslip,  meadow 


scarlet 

Hawthorn 

Johnsonia,  American 
Horse  radish 
Pumpkin 
Squash,  knotty 
Melon,  water 
Chervil 

Gallingale,  yellow 

sm  flower 
strigous 

Tooth  wort,  irregular 
Indian  potatoe,  villous 
Jamestown  weed 
Carrot,  wild 
Leather  wood 
Teazle 

Dragon’s  head,  Virginia 
Pepper  Grass,  Virginia 
Larkspur,  blue 
Ground  Laurel 
Arrow  Wood,  Indian 
Spindle  Tree,  evergreen 
Fleabane,  Canadian 

Philadelphia 

Hempweed 

nettle-leaf 
purple 
spotted 
Indian  Sage 

climbing 
Cotton  Grass 
Elephant’s  Foot 
Dog’s  Tail  Grass 
Spurge,  spotted 

hypericum-leaf 
thyme-leaved 
Ipecacuanha,  wild 
Elymas 

fringed 
Mustard,  hedge 
Beech,  rusty  leaved 


APPENDIX, 


100 


Thistle,  parti-colored 
Virginian 
common 

Sunflower,  tick  seeded 
narrow  leaf 
Ploughman’s  wort 
Do.  starlike 
Marigold,  common  corn 
Cowslip,  American 
Skunk  cabbage 
Persimon,  common 
Fox  glove,  wild 
purple 

Hyssop,  hedge 
varying 
Pea  vine,  wild 
Ground  ivy 

Gonolobus,  parti-colored 
prickly 

Bennet,  Virginian 
Locustj  prickly 
Gentian,  white 
Crow’s  foot,  spotted 
Carolina 
Goat’s  rue,  Virginian 
Cudweed,  slimy 

plantain  leaf 

Hudsonia 

Hydrangia,  arborescent 
Snow  ball,  mock 
Sunflower,  rough  leaf 
soft  leaved 
Heliotrope,  Indian 
Pennyroyal 

Hawkweed,  veiny  leaf 
rough 
panicled 

Alum  root 
Hazle  witch 
Swine’s  succory 

Virginia 

Houstonia,  blue 


Ash,  white 
blue 
swamp 

Strawberry,  garden 
wild 

Fennel,  giant 
Colombo 
Goose  grass,  s. 

cross  branched 
dyers, 

three  flowered 
Golden  thread 
Hedysarum,  m. 

clammy 

naked  flowering 
white  flowering 

Water  leaf 
Pennywort 
Parsnip,  cow 
Touch-me-not 

spotted 

Holly,  American 
Ditch  weed 
Flag,  common 
snake’s  head 
Itea,  Virginian 
Walnut,  black 
Butternut 
Shell  bark 
Shag  bark 
Pig  nut 
Peccan 
Cedar,  red 

low,  dwarf 
Bullrush,  soft,  e. 

Laurel,  narrow  leaved 
broad 
Killingia,  low 
Flax,  common 
Virginian 
Darnel 
Willow  herb 


200 


APPENDIX, 


varying 

Bastard  star  flower,  upt. 
Hydrastis,  Canadian 
St.  John’s  wort,  prolific 
common 
Virginian 
cluster  leaved 

Barley,  common 
Hop,  common 
Hibiscus,  meadow 
Okra,  garden 
Duck’s  meat,  small 
L.  Cardinal  flower 
Lobelia,  blue 
Tobacco,  wild 
Lobelia,  pale 

Claytonian 

Pepper  grass,  Virginian 
Lupine,  perennial 
Lily,  Canadian 
Philadelphian 
great  flowering 
Privet,  common 
Honeysuckle,  Virginian 
Cromwell 
Lavender,  common 
Lion’s  leaf 
Sassafras 
Spice  wood 
Leechia,  great 
Sickle  grass 
Poplar 
Fire  weed 
Dandelion 
Mother  wort 
Lentanthus,  grass  leaf 
Cackold’s  horns 
Mint,  Canadian 
horse 

Monkey  flower,  winged 
Do.  ringent 
Miegia,  reed 


whorled 
Lindernia 
Larch  tree 
Gum,  sweet 
Archangel,  hispid 
Loosestrife 

four  leaved 
Hoarhound,  Virginian 
narrow  leaf 
Ludwigia,  large,  c. 

decurrent 
Muhlenbergia 
Melanthium,  Virginian 
Magnolia,  great  flowering 
Do.  sweet  swamp 
Cucumber  tree 
Hoarhound,  common 
Scorpion  grass,  marsh 

Virginian 

Trefoil,  marsh 

Sanicle,  bastard  American  two  leaf 
Cow  wheat,  American 
Gum  tree,  large,  sour 
black 

Catnip 

Fennel  flower 
Tobacco,  common 
Water  lily,  yellow  flower 

odorous,  Virginia 
Splatterdock,  common 
Nelumbium 
Wood  sorrel,  upright 
violet 

Orchis,  shewy 

Do.  fringed,  white  and  yellow 

Do.  spiral 

Beech  drops 

Orontium,  water 

Tree  primrose 

Night  willow  herb 

scallop  leaved 

Majorarn,  wild 


APPENDIX, 


Majorem,  garden 
Rape  broom 
woolly 

Cucumber,  Indian 
Mitchella,  creeping 
Mulberry,  red 
Balm,  common 
Catmint,  wild 
Medlar,  red 
Pear  tree,  wild 
Chickweed,  Indian 
Mallow,  smooth  flowering 
Basil,  common 
garden 

Obolaria,  Carolinian 
Pliyrma,  slender  spiked 
Alkekengi,  Pennsylvania 
Feverfew,  entire  leaved 
Passion  flower,  yellow 
Pellitory 
Lung  wort 
Cotton  tree 
Aspen  Tree. 

Poplar  Lombardy 

Do.  Athenian 

Pond-weed 

Do.  perfoliate 

Do.  grass  leaved 

Do.  floating,  broad-leaf 

Louse-wort 

lanceolate 

Phlox,  or  B.  Lychnis,  spotted 
Do.  hairy 
Do.  Smooth 
Do.  one  flowered 
Valerian,  Greek,  creeping 
Knot  grass 

upright 

bearded 

Buckwheat,  climbing 
Buckwheat,  common 
W ater  Pepper 
Vol,  n. 


Water  arrow  leaved 

Buckwheat,  climbing,  American 

Shrub  trefoil 

Pear  tree 

Apple  tree 

Quince  tree 

Crab  apple  tree 

Mountain  mint 

hairy 

Parsnip,  common 
Lettuce,  wild 

glaucous  leaf 
Plantain,  Virginian 
lanceoalta 
flattened 

Penthorum,  American 
Orange,  mock,  fragrant 
Do.  scentless,  common 
Winter  Green,  spotted 
Pippsisseva 

round-leaved 
Penstemon,  pubescent 
smooth 

Hemlock 
Cherry,  wild 
Sycamore 
Ginseng 

Panic  Grass,  capillary 
whorled 
glaucous 
crow’s  foot 
broad-lf. 

Scotch 
Red  Grass,  canary 
Bean,  kidney,  common 
lima 

Pea,  common,  garden 
Timothy,  herd-grass 
Meadow  Grass 
Do,  many-stemmed 
Do.  broad-leaved 
Brake 

36 


202 

Philostemon,  innoxiou 
May-apple 
Poke-berry,  common 
Alder,  black 
Purslane,  common 
Mill-wort,  red-coloured 
yellow 

Snake  Root,  seneka 
Self-heal,  Pennsylvania 
Paspalum,  smooth 
Pickerel- weed,  heart-lfl 
Burnet,  common 
Potamisia,  stinking 
Poppy,  garden 
Oakburr 

white 

chesnut 

rock  chesnut 

upland  willow 

quercitron 

Spanish 

red 

Rudbeckia,  jagged 
rough 
purple 
leaf-clasping 

Gooseberry 
Currant,  black 
red 

Palmi  Christi 
Radish,  common 
Crow’s  Foot 
Buttercups 
Spearwort 

creeping,  k, 
water,  r. 
Sorrel,  sheep 
Dock,  sharp,  p. 
Rhododendron,  great 
Sumac,  red 

stag’s  horn 
poison  vine 


APPENDIX. 

dwarf 
three-leaved 
Rose,  Carolina 

small-flowering 

bright 

swamp 

Raspberry,  wild,  black 
red 

* garden 
Dewberry 
Blackberry,  tall 
Locust,  flowering 
Rosemary,  garden 
Rhexia,  Virginian 
Bladder  Nut 
Broom,  Spanish 
Woundwort 
Indian  Physick 
Nine-bark 
Silky  Spirea 
Saxifrage,  Virginian 
Stitch-wort,  long-leaved 
oval  leaved 
slender 

Green-briar,  herbaceous 
deciduous 
arrow-lf 

Sage,  lyre-leaved 

garden,  common 
Elderberry,  red 
black 

Scull-cap,  small  flowered 
Virginian 
oval-leaved 

Sisryrinchum,  bermudia 
Thistle,  hog,  common 
blue 
whitish 

Lizard’s  Tail,  nodding 
Stone-cross 
Mustard,  black 
Mallow,  indian 


APPENDIX, 


203 


thorny 
Rye,  spring 
Feather  Grass 
Nightshade 

Black 

Love  Apple,  tomatoe 
Bitter-sweet 
Potatoes,  common 
Egg  Plant 
Lilac,  common 
Groundsel,  common 
golden 

Willow,  black,  rough 
ozier 

Honeywort,  three-leaved 
Snap  Dragon 
Stylosanthes,  hispid 
Golden  Rod  of  Canada 
tall 

2-colored 
woodland 
scented 
broad-leaf 
late-flowering 
elm-leaved 
oak-leaved 
Do.  crooked-stemmed 
Gentian,  bastard 
Water  Pimpernel 
Arrow-head 
Burr  Reed 
Chrysanthemum,  bas. 
Radish,  water 
Fig  wort,  Maryland 
Puccoon 

Spergula,  corn,  field 
Cicely  herb 
Parsnip,  water 
Club-rush 

small,  capill 

spotted 

spiked 


Bog -rush,  round-headed 
Pink-root,  Carolina 
Bruisewort,  officinal 
villous 
Spinage  common 
Thyme,  common 
Fennel,  scorching 
Wheat,  summer 
Germander,  Virginian 
Canadian 
Shepherd’s  Purse 
Flea-wort 
Cedar,  white 
Yew  Tree,  Canadian 
Nightshade,  three-leaf 
Tripsacum 
Meadow  Rue,  rough 
Do  dioicious 
Linden  Tree 
Toad-flax, 

Spiderwort 
Tansey,  common 
Tephrosia,  Virginian 
Trichostema,  annual 
Clover,  white 
red 

hare’s  foot 

Cat’s  tail,  broad  leaved 
Tovara,  large-leaved 
Nettle,  common 
Richweed 
Bell  wort 

Elm  Tree,  American  white 
red,  rough 

Milfoil,  water,  common 
Hellebore,  yellow-flower 
Indian  Poke 

narrow-leaf 
Viburnum,  maple-leaf 
Haw,  black 
Arrow-wood 

leaved 


204 

Speedwell,  officinal 
Virginia 
Scull-cap 
Forget-me-not 

slimy 

Creeper,  common 
Grape,  fox 

common,  wild 
chicken 
Whortleberry 
Huckleberry,  black 
Cranberry,  American 
Violet,  arrow-leaved 
pubescent 
delicate 
Canadian 


APPENDIX. 

multifid 
lanceolate 
primrose-leaved 
Mullein,  white 
Misletoe 

Verbisina,  Virginian 
Vetch,  American 
Vervain,  panicled 

nettle-leaved 
erect 
Carolina 
Cockle  Burf 
Ash,  prickly 
Yellow  Root 
Indian  Corn 


CRYPTOGAMI A . 


FILICES. 

FERNS. 

Club-moss 
Osmunda,  shewy 

interrupted 
Virginian 

Onoclea,  sensitive  ferp 

MUSCI. 

MOSSES . 

Marsh  Moss 
Earth  Moss 
Bog  Moss 

FUNGI. 

MUSHROOMS. 

1.  Integer  2.  Xanthropora 

2.  Campestris  3.  Hematapora 

3 Miptica  Cup  Mushroom. 

1.  Cinnabarinus 


Thread  Moss 
Water  Moss 
Feather  Moss 


Maiden  Hair 
Spleenwort,  root-leaf 
Do.  ivory-stalked 
Do.  hart’s  tongue 
Horse  tail 
Shave-grass 


APPENDIX, 


■205 


FLORA  OF  NACHITOCHES. 

Flowering  Ash.  Box  Elder:  inhabiting  the  banks' cf  Red  River. 

Buck  Eye.  A shrub:  Flowers  scarlet;  inhabiting  sandy  hills.  The 
Creoles  use  the  bark  of  the  root  as  a substitute  for  soap  in  washing. 
Star  Wort,  found  on  the  high  lands,  two  miles  west  of  Nachitocbes. 

Wild  Indigo;,  inhabits  borders  of  swamps  and  lakes. 

Anemone;  inhabiting  sandy  hills  near  Red  River. 

MayWeed;  common  onroad  sides. 

Spikenard. 

Sarsaparilla;  hab.  growing  in  abundance  half  a mile  east  of  Grand  Ecor. 
Virginia  Snake  Root;  growing  eight  miles  north-east  of  Nachitoches. 
Indian  Turnip;  growingfour  miles  west  of  of  Nachitoches,  on  the  river 
banks. 

Milk  Weed. 

Pleurisy  root;  growing  in  abundance.  This  species  was  discovered  in 
the  year  1819,  by  Professor  Ives,  on  the  plains,  two  miles  east  of  New 
Haven,  Connecticut,  I have  since  found  it  in  the  vicinity  of  Nachb 
toches. 

Honey  Suckle. 

Trumpet  Flower 
Prickly  Pear. 

Bell  Flower. 

Honeysuckle:  Woodbine. 

Sensitive  Pea. 

Chinquapin. 

Catalpa  Tree 
Button  Bush. 

Judas  Tree. 

Palmetto. 

Worm  Seed. 

Sweet  Potatoe. 

Morning  Glory. 

Dogwood ; grows  from  five  to  twelve  feet  high. 

Hawthorn. 

Cypress  Tree,  in  extensive  swamps  and  lakes. 

Ladies’ Slipper;  in  low  ground. 

Thorn  Apple.  Jamestown  Weed,  common. 

Larkspur. 

Persimon. 


206 


APPENDIX. 


Rattle  Snake  Plantain. 

Coral  Plant,  hab.  on  the  sandy  hills  between  the  Red  and  Sabine  rivers. 

Flowers  scarlet. 

Thorough  Wort. 

White  Ash. 

Carolina  Jessamine,  hab.  found  growing  near  a bayou  one  mile  west  of 
Nachitoches.  Scarce;  flowers  deep  yellow,  very  fragrant. 

Avens. 

Honey  Locust;  a large  tree  growing  near  the  Sabine  River;  pods  contain 
a sweet  pulp,  which  is  in  large  doses  a gentle  laxative. 

Kentucky  Coffee  Tree : pods  large,  brown.  Called  by  the  French,  chicot. 
Okra,  cultivated  in  gardens. 

St.  John’s  Wort, 

Holly  An  ever  green;  berries  red. 

Cypress  Vine. 

Fleur  de  luce,  in  low  marshy  situations. 

Peccan  Tree,  growing  in  abundance. 

Spice  Wood. 

Sassafras.  Gum  is  useful  for  inflamed  eyes. 

Sweet  Gum  Tree. 

Red  Cardinal  Flower. 

Sweet  Bay. 

Big  Laurel. 

Oswego  Tea,  on  the  high  lands  south-west  of  the  town  of  Nachitoches. 
Wax  Myrtle. 

Sour  Gum  Tree. 

Passion  Flower. 

Poke  Weed. 

Mandrake,  May  Apple. 

Butter  Cup.  Hab.  roads  and  ditches. 

Palma  Christi. 

Locust  Tree.  A highly  ornamental  tree. 

Poison  Sumach. 

American  Centaury. 

Arrow  Head. 

Willow,  on  the  banks  of  rivers. 

Burnet;  hab.  on  hills;  found  growing  on  the  bluff  near  the  town  of 
Nachitoches. 

Sensitive  Briar:  flowers  red,  in  globular  spikes,  very  fragrant. 

Blue  Eyed  Grass. 

Night  Shade. 

Golden  Rod. 


APPENDIX. 


207 


Carolina  Pink  Root. 

Indian  Physic. 

Spider  Wort. 

Red  Elm,  Slippery  Elm. 

Mullen. 

Violet. 

Misleto,  a parasitic  plant  on  trees.  On  the  banks  of  Red  River, 


TABLE  NO.  IV.- 

The  following  is  not  intended  for  a complete  catalogue — but  a list  of 


the  animals  most  commonly  met  in 
sippi  Valley. 

Bison. 

Grizzly  Bear. 

Panther;  two  or  three  varieties. 
Black  Bear. 

Black  Wolf. 

Prairie  Wolf. 

Beaver. 

Skunk. 

Opossum. 

Maryland  Marmot. 

Prairie  Dog. 

Musk  Rat. 

Rabbit. 

Elk. 

Virginia  Deer. 

Cougar. 

Bay  Lynx. 

Wild  Cat. 

Indian  Dog. 

Red  Fox. 

Hare. 


the  forests  and  prairies  of  the  Missis- 

Pouched  Rator. 

Gopher. 

Ground  Squirrel. 

White  nosed  Squirrel. 

Gray  Squirrel. 

Leaping  Mouse. 

Grey  Fox. 

Prong  Horned  Antelope 
Mountain  Sheep. 

Raccoon. 

Badger. 

Mink. 

Otter. 

Rustic  Mouse. 

Meadow  Mouse. 

Mus  Mus cuius. 

Domestic  Rat. 

New  York  Bat. 

Carolina  Bat. 

Ground  Mole. 


TABLE,  NO.  V. 

A complete  catalogue  of  the  ornithology  of  the  Western  Country 
would  transcend  our  limits.  The  following  are  the  birds  most  commonly 
met  between  the  lakes  and  the  Sabine, 


208 


APPENDIX, 


Turkey  Buzzard 
Bald  Eagle 
Fish  Hawk 
American  Buzzard 
Marsh  Hawk 
Red  Eared  Owl 
Barred  Owl 
Hawk  Owl 
Great  Owl 

Great  American  Shrike 
Prairie  Hen 
Swallow  Tailed  Falcoln 
American  Sparrow  Hawk 
Ring  Tailed  Eagle 
Red  Shouldered  Hawk 
Mississippi  Kite 
Sharp  Shinned  Hawk 
Slate  colored  Hawk 
Long  Eared  Owl 
Virginia  Eared  Owl 
Pewee  Fly  Catcher 
Cedar  Bird 
Ferruginous  Thrush 
Cat  Bird 
Brown  Thrush 
Mocking  Bird 
Golden  Crowned  Thrush 
Red  Breasted  Thrush 
Water  Thrush 

Red  Bird,  or  Virginia  Cardinal 
Blue  Winged  Yellow  Warbler 
Blue  Bird 

Black  Poll  Warbler 

Blue  Yellow  Backed  Warbler 

Winter  Wren 

Cserulean  Warbler 

Great  Carolina  Wren 

Marsh  Wren 

Barn  Swallow 

Bank  Swallow 

Chimney  Swallow 

Purple  Martin 


Whip-Poor-Will 
Spanish  Whip-Poor-Will 
Night  Hawk 
Sky  Lark 
Red  Lark 

Black  capped  Titmouse 
Black  throated  Bunting 
Hairy  Woodpecker 
Red  bellied  Woodpecker 
Louisianian  Tannager 
Scarlet  Tannager 
Tyrant  Fly  Catcher  • 

Louisiana  Fly  Catcher 

Canada  Fly  Catcher 

Yellow  Breasted  Chat 

White  Eyed  Fly  Catcher. 

American  Red  Start 

Red  eyed  Fly  Catcher 

Green  Black  Capped  Fly  Catcher' 

Towhee  Bunting 

Chipping  Sparrow 

Cow  Bird 

Yellow  bird 

Yellow  hemp  Bird 

Song  Sparrow 

Purple  Finch 

Lesser  red  Poll 

Snow  Bird 

Cardinal  Grossbeak 

Pine  Grossbeak 

American  Grossbeak 

Purple  Grackle 

Red  winged  Starling 

Baltimore  Bird 

Orchard  Oriole 

Yellow  headed  Oriole 

Meadow  Lark 

Robin  Red  Breast 

White  breasted  Nut-thatch 

Red  breasted  Nut  thatch 

Raven 

Crow 


APPENDIX. 


209 


Magpie 

Pileated  Woodpecker 

Bluejay 

Downy  Woodpecker 

Ruby  throated  Humming  bird 

Great  marbled  Godwit 

Bel  fed  Kingfisher 

Horned  Grackle. 

Carolina  paroquet 

Common  Coot 

Wild  Turkey 

Laughing  Gull 

Pinnated  Grouse 

Marshtern 

Ruffed  Grouse 

Lessertern 

Virginia  Partridge 

Rough  billed  Pelican 

Passage  Pigeon 

Brown  Pelican 

Carolina  Pigeon 

Cormorant 

Kiildeer 

Swan 

Golden  plover 

Canadian  Goose 

Hooping  Crane 

Barnacle  Goose 

Sandhill  Crane 

White  fronted  Goose 

Great  Heron 

Blue  winged  Teal 

Green  Heron 

Bufile  headed  Duck 

Night  Heron 

Wild  Duck 

Long  billed  Curlew 

Summer  Duck 

Little  Wood  Cock 

Scaup  Duck 

Willet 

Wood  Duck 

Stone  Curlew 

Pintailed  Duck 

Tell  tale  Godwit 

Golden  eye 

Solitary  Sandpiper 

American  Widgeon 

Semi  palmated  Sandpiper 

Tied  breasted  Merganser 

Yellow  shank’s  Snipe 

Hooded  Merganser. 

TABLE,  NO.  VI. 

The  methodist  church  is  the  most  numerous  denomination  in  the  west 
ern  country.  The  number  of  communicants  in  1826  was  about  135,000. 
The  Methodist  congregations  contain  upon  an  average  5 or  6 hearers  to 
every  communicant.  This  calculation  will  give  this  denomination  be 
tween  7 and  800,000  at  that  time.  The  number  of  itinerant  ministers 
485.  The  number  of  local  ministers  wbs  probably  greater.  In  1830, 
the  number  of  communicants  was  about  173,083,  and  618  that 
of  travelling  preachers.  The  superannuated  preachers  amounted  to  40 
The  Presbyterians  had  six  hundred  and  fourteen  preachers  in  1830, 
024  churches,  and  60,470  communicants  The  Baptists  in  1830  had 
1,083  preachers,  1701  churches  and  90,000  communicants.  The  Epis 
Vol.  II.  27 


210 


APPENDIX. 


copal  in  the  same  year  51  ministers,  60  churches  and  2,000  communicants. 
The  Cumberland  Presbyterians  40  ministers,  70  churches,  7,000  commu- 
nicants. This  denomination  is  rapidly  increasing.  The  Catholics  130 
ministers,  130  churches  and  between  4 and  500,000  worshippers.  The 
Christians  who  are  Unitarian  in  their  sentiments  have  400  flourishing 
congregations  in  Ohio  and  Kentucky.  The  Unitarians  have  a few  church- 
es. The  Tankers  are  generally  emigrants  from  Germany  and  are  distin- 
guished by  wealing  long  beards  and  by  holding  the  doctrine  of  universal 
salvation.  They  have  about  40  churches.  The  Shakers  have  a number 
of  flourishing  societies.  There  are  100  German  Lutheran  churches,  great 
numbers  of  Free  will  Baptists  followers  of  Mr.  Campbell,  not  a few  Mor- 
monites,  a growing  number  of  congregations  calling  themselves  Emanci- 
pators, chiefly  of  the  Baptist,  denomination.  They  hold  a perpetual  cru- 
sade against  slavery.  There  are  perhaps  20  Jewish  synagogues.  The 
‘Quarterly  Journal  of  Education’  thus  assigns  the  supposed  number  of 
those  attached  in  any  way  to  any  Christian  society.  Methodists  800.000. 
Baptists  700,000.  Presbyterians  550,000.  Catholics  450,000.  Episco- 
palians 50,000.  Cumberland  Presbyterians,  80,000.  Other  denomina- 
tions among  which  the  Scotch  Reformed  have  not  been  enumerated 
100,000,  making  the  total  number  of  worshippers  in  the  western  country 
2,730,000  and  of  those  who  do  not  worship  1,300,000.  This  estimate  is 
too  small.  The  number  cf  people  in  the  western  country  who  have  their 
religion  yet  to  choose  exceeds  2,000,000. 

The  following  is  probably  a correct  statement  of  the  denominations  in 
the  United  states. 


Denominations . Ministers.  Congregations.  Communicants.  Population „ 


Orthodox  Congregationalists, 

1,000 

1,270 

140,000 

1,280,000 

Unitarians 

150 

160 

176,000 

Presbyterians 

1,700 

2,158 

173,329 

1,800,000 

Dutch  Reformed 

159 

194 

17,888 

125,000 

Episcopalians 

500 

700 

600,000 

German  Reformed 

84 

400 

17,400 

200,000 

Lutherans 

205 

1,200 

44,000 

400,000 

Associate  Presbyterians 

74 

144 

15,000 

100,000 

Calvinistic  Baptists, 

2,914 

4,384 

304,827 

2,743,453 

Methodist  Episcopal 

1,777 

476,000 

2,600,000 

Cumberland  Presbyterians 

50 

75 

8,000 

100,000 

Swedenborgians 

30 

28 

5,000 

United  Brethren 

23 

23 

2,000 

7,000 

Quakers  or  Friends 

— 

400 

200,000 

Associate  and  other  Methodists  350 

35,000 

175,000 

APPENDIX. 


211 


Christ-ians 

200 

800 

25,000 

275,000 

Emancipators 

15 

600 

4,500 

Seventh  day  Baptists 

30 

40 

2,000 

20,000 

Six  Principle  u 

25 

30 

1,800 

20,000 

Mennonites 

200 

30,000 

120,000 

Tunkers 

40 

40 

3,000 

30,000 

Free  will  Baptists 

300 

400 

16,000 

150,000 

Free  Communion  do. 

30 

3,500 

30,000 

Shakers 

45 

15 

6,000 

Universalists 

150 

300 

150,000 

Roman  Catholics 

— 

500,000 

Jews  and  others  not  mentioned  150 

50,000 

Total 

9,941 

13,891 

1,314,  344 

There  are  probably  in  the  United  States  10,000  settled  ministers  and 
14,000  fixed  congregations. 


t,  ;*  ■;  P : ; WF : ' ' “ ’ ‘ • ' ' 

TABLE  NO.  VII. 

Exports  from  New  Orleans  in  1831  $12,000,000.  Among  the  items 
are  157,328  barrels  of  fbur,  from  50  to  80,000  hogsheads  of  sugar  and 
302,852  bales  of  cotton.  The  amount  of  pork  cannot  be  ascertained,  but 
probably  exceeds  2,000,000.  The  exports  from  Mobile  for  the  same 
year  amounted  to  $1,693,958.  From  Cincinnati  over  $1,000,000.  The 
lead  annually  exported  from  New  Orleans  amounts  to  about  12,000,000 
lbs.  The  steam  boat  tonnage  of  the  western  country  exceeds  50,000 
tons.  The  number  of  steam  boats  that  have  run  upon  the  western  waters 
from  1811  to  1830  is  335.  Present  number  230. 


TABLE  NO.  VIII. 

It  is  no  longer  necessary  to  give  the  names  of  the  steam  boats  on  the 
western  waters  to  establish  in  the  public  mind  abroad  the  extent  to  which 
the  increase  of  steam  boats  has  been  carried.  The  present  amount  of 
tonnage  in  the  Western  Country  is  50,000  tons.  About  380  boats  have 
been  built  or  run  upon  these  waters.  Of  these  132  were  built  at  Cincin- 
nati and  about  the  same  number  at  Pittsburgh.  Fifteen  or  16  were  built 


212 


APPENDIX. 


at  New  Orleans.  The  rest  were  built  at  various  places  on  the  Ohio  and 
some  of  them  in  the  Atlantic  ports.  It  is  believed  that  35  have  been 
built  during  the  past  season,  some  of  them  of  the  largest  and  most  beauti- 
ful class.  A very  great  improvement  now  generally  adopted  in  the  west- 
ern steam  boats  is  to  have  them  built  with  upper  decks  as  they  are  called, 
that  is  the  whole  extent  of  the  cabin  arrangement  occupies  the  complete 
length  of  the  boat  in  the  upper  story  giving  the  cabin  an  airy  and  extensive 
promenade  wholly  free  from  the  annoyance  of  the  steam  and  the  noise  of 
the  enginery.  When  the  boat  and  the  captain  are  both  good,  the  passage 
up  and  down  the  rivers  is  generally  made  in  great  comfort.  Now  and  then 
a ruffian  creates  annoyance  in  which  case  if  the  captain  possess  energy 
and  self  respect,  which  is  the  case  with  the  greater  portion  of  these  officers 
the  prompt  remedy  is  adopted  of  setting  him  on  shore.  Prices  of  passage 
on  an  average  are  as  follows.  From  Baltimore  to  Wheeling  $14.  From 
Wheeling  to  Cincinnati  by  the  stage  $14;  By  the  river  $10.  From 
Pittsburgh  to  Wheeling  $3.  From  Cincinnati  to  Louisville  $4.  Return 
$8.  From  Louisville  to  New  Orleans  $30.  Return  the  same.  From 
Cincinnati  to  St.  Louis  $16.  From  St.  Louis  to  New  Orleans  $30.  From 
New  York  to  Albany  2$.  From  Albany  to  Buffalo,  by  the  canal  $18, 
From  Buffalo,  to  Cleaveland  $8.  From  Cleaveland  or  Sandusky  to 
Cincinnati  by  the  stage  $13. 


TABLE  NO.  IX, 

MILITARY  POSTS  AND  ARSENALS. 

Fort  Brady, 

Michigan  Territory, 

Fort  Mackinac, 

U iC 

Fort  Howard, 

u u 

Fort  .Dearborn, 

u u 

Fort  Gratiot, 

1C  u 

Fort  Niagara, 

New  York. 

Madison  Barracks, 

New  York. 

Hancock  Barracks, 

Maine. 

Fort  Sullivan, 

u 

Fort  Preble, 

u 

Fort  Constitution, 

New  Hampshire. 

Fort  Independence. 

Massachusetts, 

APPENDIX. 


213 


Fort  Wolcott, 

Fort  Trumbull, 

West  Point, 

Fort  Columbus, 

Fort  Delaware, 

Fort  Me  Henry, 

Fort  Severn, 

Fort  Washington, 

Fortress  Monroe, 

Fort  Johnston, 

Fort  Moultrie, 

Oglethorpe  Barracks, 

Fort  Marion, 

Fort  Snell  ing. 

Fort  Crawford, 

Fort  Armstrong, 

Fort  Winnebago, 
Cantonment  Leavenworth, 

Jefferson  Barracks, 
Cantonment  Gibson, 
Cantonment  Jesup, 

Baton  Rouge, 

Cantonment  Atkinson, 
Fort  Wood. 

Fort  Pike, 

Fort  St.  Philip, 
Cantonment  Brooke, 

Fort  Mitchell, 

Key  West, 

Arsenal  Watertown, 
Arsenal,  Watervleit, 
Arsenal  Rome, 

Arsenal  Pittsburgh, 
Arsenal  Frankford, 
Arsenal  Baltimore, 
Arsenal  Washington, 
Arsenal  near  Richmond, 
Arsenal  Augusta, 

Arsenal  Baton  Rouge, 


Rhode  Island. 
Connecticut. 
New  York. 
New  York. 
Delaware. 
Maryland. 
n 


Virginia. 

North  Carolina. 

South  Carolina. 

Georgia. 

Florida. 

On  the  Upper  Mississppi. 


Michigan  Territory. 

Right  bank  of  the  Missour 
Little  Platte. 

Missouri. 

On  the  Arkansaw. 
Louisiana. 


u 

u 

Cl 

u 


Florida. 
Alabama. 
Florida. 
Massachusetts. 
New  York. 

u cc 

Pennsylvania. 

Cl 


Maryland. 

District  of  Columbia. 
Virginia. 

Georgia. 

Louisiana. 


i near  the 


214 


APPENDIX, 


A GENERAL  aggregate , exhibiting  the  number  of  each  description  of 

States  of  America,  as  returned 


States  and  Territories. 

FREE 

MALES. 

Under  five 
years  of  age. 

Of  five,  and 
under  ten, 

Of  ten,  and 
under  fifteen. 

i 

[Of  fifteen,  and 
under  twenty. 

|of  twenty,  and 
! under  thirty. 

Maine  - 

34,03:1 

28,746 

25,536 

22,410 

35,028 

New  Hampshire  - 

19,438 

17,590 

16,800 

14,873 

21,147 

Massachusetts 

40,615 

33,054 

34,605 

32,868 

58,431 

Rhode  Island 

6,731 

5,788 

5,403 

5,354 

8,425 

Connecticut 

19,021 

17,891 

17,773 

16,519 

26,181 

Vermont 

21,68SJ 

19.410 

17.596 

15,805 

24,200 

N.  District  of  New  York 

118,609 

103,683 

88,844 

74,176 

124,787 

S.  District  of  New  York 

39,526 

33,386 

29,945 

27,763 

51,728 

Total  of  New  York 

lo8,135 

137,349 

118,769 

101,939 

176,515 

New  Jersey 

25,073 

21.209 

19,736 

17,132 

26,894 

E.  District  of  Pennsylvania 

60,744 

50,321 

45,115 

41,32] 

68,379 

W.  District  of  Pennsylvania 

56,376 

45,659 

37,476 

33,030 

52,483 

Total  of  Pennsylvania 

117,120 

95,9&0 

82,591 

74,351 

120,862 

Delaware 

4,747 

4,031 

3,932 

3,179 

5,509 

Maryland 

23,732 

19,439 

17,888 

1 5,772 1 

! 29,380 

E District  of  Virginia 

33,156 

2(5,402 

22,532 

19,813 

33,282 

W.  District  of  Virginia 

32,625 

25,394 

20,763 

17,118 

27,543 

Total  of  Virginia 

65,781 

51,796 

43,295 

36,931 

60,825 

North  Carolina  - 

48,662 

35,973 

31,171 

25,582 

39,174 

South  Carolina  - 

25,131 

20,267 

16,492 

13,962 

22,166 

Georgia 

33,011 

23,586 

18,679 

15,098 

26,688 

N.  District  of  Alabama 

9,455 

6,737 

5,231 

4,305 

7,039 

S.  District  of  Aabama 

13,300 

8,760 

6,905 

5,194 

10,308 

Total  of  Alabama 

22,755 

15,497 

12,136 

9,499 

17,347 

Mississippi 

7,922 

5,588 

4,581 

3,683 

7,215 

E.  District  of  Louisiana 

5,017 

4,187 

3,339 

2,850 

7,435 

W.  District  of  Louisiana 

2,859 

2,199 

1,891 

1,478 

3,027 

Total  of  Louisiana 

7,876 

6,386 

5,230 

4,328 

10,462 

E.  District  of  Tennessee 

19,606 

14,733 

11,788 

9,598 

14,074 

W.  District  of  Tennesse 

40,048 

30,591 

24,431 

19,927 

30,643 

Total  of  Tennessee 

5y,8o2 

1 45,324 

36,219 

29,525 

44,717 

Kentucky 

54,228 

41,294 

34,515 

29,288 

45,384 

Ohio  - 

96,3641 

1 74,813 

62,260 

51,160 

81,016 

Amount  carried  forward 

889,7171724, 049|625, 2271539, 258|887,626| 

APPENDIX. 


persons  within  the  several  Districts  and  Territories  of  the  United 
by  the  respective  Marshals  thereof. 

"White  persons.  7 


MALES. 


r : x 

>>  s 

r-  -a 
<2  p g 

f fifty 
d under 
sixty, 

'm  13  5 

'£*55 

p - 

Q)  C >> 

" rs  r? 

>>  g5 

p *o  • 
J-11  S q 

>>  <5  A 

a'S  3 
.=  3 •= 

□f  one 
tidred  8f 
wards. 

C pfi 
% a 

o "§  ^ 

rt 

O c 

c3 

o S S 

a 

p V 

O p 

cSs 

O 5 c 

a a. 

«E  3 

21,587 

14,543 

9,22, 

5,i42 

' 2,63  b 

819 

1 92 

! 1 

14,726 

10,819 

7,202 

5,097 

’ 2,786 

835 

85 

j 3 

35,417 

23,845 

15,020 

10,284 

5,516 

1,764 

172 

> 1 

5,383 

3,51i 

2,153 

1,450 

i 854 

260 

l . 25 

16,416 

1 1,604 

7,954 

5,493 

> 3,158 

871 

76 

4 

15,761 

10,410 

7,052 

5,192 

: 2,204 

630 

4* 

3 

79,912 

49,700 

29.273 

17,171 

7.043 

1,750 

175 

19 

33,190 

19,516 

11,240 

6,700 

1 2,996 

•I  796 

76 

16 

ii3,iite 

6<i  ,^2 1 

40  d13 

23,371 

10,U3b 

2,540 

1 251 

35 

17,238 

11,036 

7,059 

- 4,462 

2,022 

531 

44 

1 

42,73J 

27,58S 

15,555 

8,744 

3,701 

89h 

98 

16 

32.1 1C 

19,953 

12,505 

7,161 

3,221 

1,022 

1U 

21 

74,841 

4d,536 

28,050 

i 1o,90j 

6,b22 

l,y  lb 

2l  i 

3/ 

3,219 

2,036 

1,282 

609 

201 

44 

c 

18,206 

11,072 

6,586 

3,462 

1,373 

356 

52 

7 

20,902 

13,430 

8.778 

4,853 

1,930 

565 

88 

10 

15,629 

9,933 

6,518 

4,114 

1,750 

. 535 

96 

13 

35,531 

23,363 

15,291 

8,967 

3,6^0 

1,104 

184, 

23 

23,080 

15,076 

’ 10,646 

5,947 

2,465 

650 

136 

23 

13,952 

8,330 

5,640 

*3,034 

1,211 

297 

63 

14 

16,169 

9,741 

5.682 

3,097 

1,120 

290 

62 

13 

4,457 

2,513 

1,496 

780 

249 

65 

11 

5,936 

3,513 

2,125 

961 

342 

82 

7 

4 

11,395 

6,026 

3,622 

1,741 

591 

147 

18 

4 

4,630 

2,430 

1,585 

632 

186 

47 

11 

5,736 

3,172 

1,445 

635 

22/ 

61 

18 

8 

2,109 

1,146 

560 

261 

91 

16 

3 

1 

7,845 

4,318 

2,014 

895 

31t 

77 

21 

~ 9 

7,752 

4,731 

3,738 

1,994 

874 

292 

42 

11 

17,675 

11,036 

8,206 

3,57  b 

1,243 

363 

67 

18 

25,427 

15,76t 

11,944 

5,6b 

2,11/ 

655 

lob 

29 

26,384 

17,160 

10.998 

6,275 

5,620,1 

723 

119 

27 

49,539 

31,051 

18^126 

10,772 

3,628 1 

923 

117 

21 

550,492  i 

146,725  5 

217,551  i 

L28,708|55,729l  15,508 

1,924 

2o6 

216 


APPENDIX, 


AGGRE - 


FREE 

MALES. 

States  and  Territories. 

0? 

o to 
a 

T3 

G 

rt  o 

T3  G 
G ^ 

rt  s 

c 

- H) 

B > 

5^0 

j-  ° 

O !-) 
> « 

G « 

O 

s 

O 2 

B g 

w a 
V-  ^3 

. ^ 

— * 'C  «-» 

o p 

O 52 

G 

b 

O 3 

Amount  brought  forward 

889,7 17 

724,049 

625‘22~7 

339,258 

887,626 

Indiana 

39,775 

28,863 

22,923 

17,976 

27,677 

Illinois  - 

18,882 

12,747 

1 10,033 

7,775 

14,708 

Missouri 

13,506 

9,624 

7,464 

5,465 

11,150 

Arkansas 

3, OK 

2,022 

1,628 

1,277 

2,832 

Michigan 

3,038 

2‘318 

1,924 

1,553 

4,033 

E.  District  of  Florida 

441 

326 

261 

170 

475 

W.  District  of  Florida 

550 

355 

273 

245 

634 

Middle  District  of  Florida 

623 

. 640 

461 

356 

952 

S.  District  of  Florida 

is1 

12 

14 

18 

80 

Total  of  Florida 

1,632 

1,333 

1,015 

78b 

2,171 

District  of  Columbia 

2,345 

1,681 

1,474 

1,521 

2,705 

Total  of  the  U.  States 

972,164 

782,63  / 1 

871,688 

952.9 u 2 

FEMALES 

Maine  - 

32,458 

27,667 

24,079 

22,336 

New  Hampshire  - 

18,506 

16,800 

15.584 

14,846 

24,485 

Massachusetts 

39,516 

34,504 

33,366 

34,463 

60,427 

Rhode  Island 

6,626 

5,641 

5,209 

5,577 

9,207 

Connecticut 

18,246 

16,937 

16,574 

15,985 

26,519 

Vermont  - 

21,326 

18,633 

16,877 

15.776 

25,167 

N.  District  of  New-York  - 

113,755 

100,075 

85,712 

75,251 

116.804 

S.  District  of  New-York  - 

37,926 

32,949 

29,616 

30,024 

51^638 

Total  of  New-York  - 

151,681 

133,024 

115,328 

105,275 

168,442 

New  Jersey 

23,951 

20,481 

18,248 

16,792 

25,839 

E.  District  of  Pennsylvania 

57,958 

48,481 

43,563 

43,793 

66,990 

W.  District  of  Pennsylvania 

54,127 

44,388 

36,422 

32,856 

48,433 

Total  of  Pennsylvania 

112,085 

92,869 

79,985 

76,649 

115,423 

Delaware 

4,646 

4,012 

3.652 

3.380 

5,474 

Maryland 

22,355 

18,692 

17,327 

18,021 

27,245 

E.  District  of  Virginia 

31,405 

25,391 

22,333 

22,474 

35,285 

W.  District  of  Virginia 

30, 90S 

2 '*,590 

19,591 

18,036 

23,771 

Total  of  Virginia 

62,404 

49,981 

41,924 

40,510 

62,0  5 o 

North  Carolina  - 

42,785 

34,247 

28,792 

27,616 

41,220 

South  Carolina  - 

23,*/ 27 

19,044 

15,631 

15,133 

21,863 

Georgia  - 

30,971 

22,648 

17,847 

16,517 

24,005 

Amount  carried  forward  | 

; 867 ,443 1 792,066 1 688,660 1 652,3 1 0 1 1 0 i ,890 

APPENDIX, 


217 


GA  TE — Continued. 


WHITE 

PERSONS. 

MALES. 

'O  . I 

'O  . 

T3 

CC 

£« 

■g 

ft  >4 

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3 5 
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V-  C- 

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a 

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3 

450,491 

346,725 

217,551 

128,7 0i 

55,721 

15,508 

1,924, 

256 

17,943 

10,345 

6,045 

3.186 

1,483 

242 

44 

10 

8,932 

4,631 

2,856 

1,164 

386 

90 

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341 

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875 

435 

209 

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661 

264 

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218 

157 

72 

It 

1 

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313 

165 

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31 

16 

£ 

1,530 

760 

436 

194 

57 

10 

2 

1 

1,917 

1,168 

593 

246 

7J 

25 

2 

1 

592,5h6 

369,3  / ( 

230,501 

134,910 

58,13t 

15,945 

1.993 

274 

FEMALES. 

22,362 

14,133 

9,350 

5,929 

2,886 

909 

139 

3 

18,703 

11,908 

8,429 

5,837 

3,036 

1,101 

170 

6 

38,184 

28,691 

18,453 

12,919 

7,177 

2,512 

335 

2 

5,752 

4,026 

2,828 

1,942 

1,054 

376 

44 

18,034 

13,003 

9,348 

6,703 

3,785 

1,229 

153 

3 

16,257 

11,035 

7,157 

4,723 

2,089 

636 

87 

5 

72,857 

45,245 

28,545 

15,429 

6,282 

1,711 

201 

14 

31,813 

19,175 

11,633 

7,109 

3,215 

957 

104 

4 

104,570 

64,420 

38,208 

22,538 

9,49/ 

2,668 

305 

18 

16,633 

11,004 

7,308 

4,717 

2,187 

584 

63 

2 

41,007 

26,236 

18,684 

9,737 

4,292 

1,155 

132 

13 

28,568 

17,9S8 

11,035 

6,231 

2,700 

877 

104 

7 

6 57  5 

44,222 

27,749 

16,018 

6,992 

2,032 

236 

20 

3,183 

2,047 

1,400 

627 

233 

58 

4 

1 

18,618 

10,842 

6,985 

3,633 

1,543 

432 

65 

17 

21,706 

14,047 

9,293 

5,195 

2,297 

620 

138 

13 

14,978 

9,706 

6,137 

3,580 

1,552 

471 

55 

13 

36, j84 

23, 7 03 

L 0,431) 

8,775 

3,849 

1,091 

188 

26 

24,704 

16,455 

10,557 

5,944 

2,470 

767 

152 

26 

13,431 

8,457 

5,454 

2,928 

1,178 

353 

79 

19 

13,386 

8,438 

5,056 

2,881 

985 

289 

65 

22 

145,153 

268,452 

175,022 

105,877 

49J.62 

15,027 

2,091 

b>U 

170 

Vo  l.  11.  ** 


219 


appendix 


AGGRE 


States  and  Territories. 

FREE 

FEMALES. 

Under  five 
years  of  age. 

c A 
o Ut 
^ ”2 
O 53 

i 

Of  ten  and 
under  fifteen. 

Of  fifteen  and 
under  twenty. 

Of  twenty  and 
j under  thirty. 

Amount  brought  forward 

507,443 

792,083 ! 

388,630  ! 

552, 3H 

101,891 

N.  District  of  Alabama  - 

9,941 

6,447 

4,930 

4,400 

6,325 

S.  District  of  Alabama 

1*2,1  / 1 

8.380 

6,187 

5,540 

8,137 

Total  of  Alabama 

21,1^1 

14,92/ 

1 1,99/ 

“IT, 940 

14,463 

Mississippi 

7,32^ 

5,254 

4164, 

3.G72 

5,235 

E.  District  of  Louisiana  - 

5.015 

4,033 

3,410 

3,141 

4.092 

\Y\  District  of  Louisiana  - 

2, OBI 

2.1 5r 

1,731. 

1,552 

2,249 

Total  of  Louisiana  - 

7,973 

0,l8o 

0,144 

4,/ui 

6,940 

E.  District  of  Tennessee  - 

18,131 

14,022 

11,051 

10,090 

14,801 

W.  District  of  Tennessee 

37,22' 

29,275 

22.594 

20,587 

23,057 

Total  of  Tennessee  - 

55,340 

43,29/ 

33,645 

30,5/  / 

42,958 

Kentucky 

50,70] 

39,515 

32.341 

29,03: 

41,579 

Ohio  - 

89,780 

71,855 

59,50 ! 

52,771 

75,442 

Indiana 

37,151 

27,42  o 

20,848 

18,013 

20,170 

Illinois 

17,411 

12,222 

' 9,220 

8,211 

12.279 

Missouri 

12,531 

9,942 

6,789 

5,777 

8,854 

Arkansas 

2,782 

1,894 

1 ,49f 

1,220 

2,909 

Michigan 

2,727 

2,054 

1,778 

1,43 

2,512 

E.  District  of  Florida 

432 

290 

23  ? 

221 

350 

W.  District  of  Florida 

502 

! 352 

282 

270 

398 

Middle  District,  of  F.orida 

850 

600 

441 

407 

655 

S.  District  of  Florida 

If 

c 

19 

11 

24 

Total  of  Florida 

1,807 

? 1,251 

93 1 

9^ 

1 1,447 

District  of  Columbia 

2,185 

1,040 

1,03? 

) 1,84" 

! 2,867 

Total  of  the  U.  States 

920,1 (L 

1 7o  1,641 

>i9,0i3|59/,7l; 

f,  915,632 

I 


APPENDIX. 


219 


GA  TE — Continued. 


WHITE  PERSON 

S. 

FKMALKS. 

•c 

T3 

f= 

-o  • 

c 5? 

T3  . 

"3 

£ m 

*1  * 

_ CJ 
>»£ 

To 
c ‘3 

^ 2 

O 

5 j;  4 

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S rt 

3 

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S 
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c/2  i-» 

0) 

of 

> ^ 
r/2  "w 

o 5 

0 3 

o 3 

| B ! 

o 

4)  §* 

d s 
0 

415,158 

258,452 

1 75,022 

105,877 

40,162 

15,02/ 

2,091 

171 

3,654 

2,130 

1,183 

578 

183 

67 

18 

r 

4,W 

2,591 

1,541 

774 

218 

75 

12 

J- 

8,532 

4,721 

2,724 

1,3j2 

4.31 

142 

2- 

u 

3,094 

1,729 

1,001 

457 

150 

32 

7 

0 

2,93* 

1,598 

85> 

504 

172 

68 

13 

] 

1,276 

696 

404 

160 

48 

15 

4 

4,2ot 

2,294 

1,25. 

681 

220 

75. 

1/ 

j 

7,941 

5,158 

3,3131 

1,775 

758 

221 

47 

14 

15.591 

10,12] 

5,92' 

2,74  4 

1,055 

315 

53 

1- 

23,541 

15,277 

9,238 

4,519 

1,811 

539 

Uc 

2, 

23,783 

15,381 

9,525 

5,349 

2,202 

578 

9: 

11 

43,769 

27,461 

15,790 

8,214 

2,909 

721 

8« 

6 

15,045 

8,794 

4,540 

2,175 

815 

202 

23 

2 

6,758 

3.701 

2,02] 

1,476 

799 

288 

71 

12 

] 

5,122 

2,715 

7 73 

229 

58 

8 

2 

1,089 

526 

299 

108 

32 

8 

3 

1,393 

723 

385 

138 

37 

8 

n 

215 

143 

61 

35 

18 

3 

0 

231 

139 

83 

21 

15 

4 

2 

391 

198 

100 

40 

14 

2 

li 

11 

4 

4 

1 

1 

848 

484 

247 

101 

45 

10 

5 

1,751 

981 

603 

250 

84 

30 

4 

555,565 

35d,425 

422,528 

130,388 

58,034 

17,672 

2,i84 

234. 

i: 


220 


APPENDIX. 


GENERAL  AGGRE- 


SLAVES. 

3IALES. 

States  and  Territories. 

Under  ten 
years  of  age. 

Of  ten,  and 
under  twenty- 
four. 

Of  twenty  and 
un,  thirty-six. 

Of  thirty-six 
and  under  fifty 
five. 

Of  fifty  -fvej 
and  un.  one  i 
hundred. 

Of  one  hun. 
and  upwards 

Maine 

New  Hampshire  - 

Massachusetts 

- 

Khode  Island 

2 

1 

Connecticut 

1 

2 

- 1 

4 

Vermont 

- 

N.  District  of  N.  Y. 

3 

6 

1 

- 

2 

S.  District  of  N.  Y. 

- 

Total  of  New-York. 

3 

6 

1 

2 

New- Jersey 

4 

10 

396 

379 

261 

2 

E‘  District  of  Penn . 

7 

44 

17 

4 

9 

1 

W.  District  of  Penn. 

13 

40 

6 

1 

4 

- 

Total  of  Pennsylvania 

20 

84 

23 

5 

13 

1 

Delaware 

574 

856 

257 

84 

44 

3 

Maryland 

17,878 

17.752 

8,844 

6,185 

2,770 

50 

E.  District  of  Virginia 

74,118 

60,099 

38, 4H 

27,758 

11,125 

116 

W.  District  of  Virginia 

9,843 

8,835 

4,795 

2,996 

1,032 

7 

Total  of  Virginia 

83,y61 

08,034 

43,214 

30,7u4 

i2,lo7 

123 

North  Carolina  - 

48,038 

39,146 

20,270 

13,925 

5,790 

92 

South  Carolina  - 

51,866 

44,671 

29,718 

21,693 

7,579 

98 

Georgia 

38,344 

34,216 

19,575 

12,888 

3,817 

106 

N.  District  of  Alabama 

8,250 

7,322 

4,240 

1,971 

605 

6 

S.  District  of  Alabama 

13,615 

12,216 

6,836 

3,178 

887 

24 

Total  of  Alabama 

2i,86o 

1 0,538 

11,070 

5, 149 

1,492 

36 

Mississippi 

11,011 

10,784 

6,957 

3,468 

829 

23 

E.  District  of  Louisiana 

9,352 

12,991 

12,185 

6,455 

1,653 

28 

W.  District  of  Louisia. 

4,268 

4,941 

3,577 

2,025 

428 

11 

Total  of  Louisiana 

13,620 

17,932 

157762 

' 8,480 

2,081 

3/ 

E.  District  of  Tenn. 

3,392 

3,116 

1,283 

713 

248 

4 

W.  District  of  Tenn 

24,617 

20,484 

9,981 

5,332 

1,494 

55 

Total  of  Teneessee. 

28,009 

23,600 

11,264 

6,045 

1,742 

5b 

Kentucky 

31,513 

27,488 

13,386 

7,513 

2,286 

45 

Ohio 

Amnt.  carried  forward 

344,737 

305,021 

186,745 

1 16,369 

40,876 

171 

APPENEXX, 


221 


GA  TE — Continued . 


SLAVES. 

FI '.MALES. 

O 

£ to 
c;  c3 
1 ^ 
S ° 

1 a 
§ ® 

.O  5h  . 
^ C >4 

£*  'w 

* A 

5 

Ih  • 

t-  Ol  « 

-a  > 

a> 

> 

ns 

'O 

c d 
a a 

«i  £ S 

OT 

£ S3 

>-»  p 

. ,o 

Si 

zr 

p ^ «*- 
£ £ 2 

o 

Z3 

C g 

V-  c S 
« 3 3 

Os’" 

C3 

S « e3 

c 73 
5-  SS 

O -a 

2 

1 

1 

7 

1 

9 

7 

5 

11 

g 

g 

1 

2 

2 

11 

9 

9, 

1 

2 

2 

7 

13 

425 

457 

290 

10 

63 

15 

13 

30 

5 

23 

45 

7 

11 

14 

4 

33 

108 

22 

24 

44 

9 

506 

611 

241 

77 

49 

3 

16,804 

16,242 

8,322 

5,327 

2,601 

53 

73,562 

58,634 

36,600 

24,475 

11,221 

132 

9,544 

8,353 

4,253 

2,734 

1,057 

16 

83,106 

60,987 

40,853 

27,209 

12,278 

148 

44,907 

37,510 

20,169 

12,849 

5,622 

114 

51,563 

45,534 

32,719 

22,023 

8,117 

84 

38,071 

33,789 

20.508 

12,331 

3,746 

78 

7,962  , 

• 7,156 

4,208 

1,915 

515 

8 

13,39S 

12,504 

6,870 

2,990 

800 

17 

21,380 

19,660 

11,079 

4,905 

1,315 

25 

10,857 

10,842 

7,005 

3,171 

691 

21 

9,550 

12,110 

12,21 1 

4,583 

1,246 

29 

4,163 

4,564 

3,288 

1,630 

305 

10 

13,713 

16,704 

13,499 

6,213 

1,551 

39 

3,258 

3,160 

1,473 

911 

321 

8 

23,331 

21,134 

10,748 

5,712 

1,57S 

26 

20,589 

24,284 

12,221 

6,623 

1,899 

34 

30,990 

27,224 

14,177 

8,119 

2,560 

49 

238,618 

499,531 

181,251 

109,336 

40,777 

— 559 

Vo L.  II. 


29 


222 


appendix 


GENERAL  AGGRE* 


SLAVES. 

MALES. 

States  akjj  Territories. 

Uniter  ten 
;ars  of  age. 

f ten  and  un- 
der twenty- 
four- 

f twenty-four 
id  uii.  thirty 

sis. 

)f  thirty-six 
md  un.  fifty- 
ive. 

3 

O 

4s 

Ssi 

F ono  hundred 
ind  upwards. 

**  1 

O 

o 5 

- 

O a 

O ” 

amnt.  brought  forward. 

344,737  j 305,021 

180,746 

116,359 

40,875 

" 171 

Indiana  - 
Illinois  - 

103 

120 

1 

80 

49 

7 

2 

Missouri  - 

4,858 

850 

4,292 

2,052 

917 

198 

41 

Arkansas 

812 

395 

187 

48 

1 

Michigan 

2 

5 

9 

1 

1 

- 

E.  Dislvict  of  Florida 

627 

588 

461 

289 

93 

- 

W.  District  of  Florida 

555 

602 

498 

231 

52 

- 

M.  District  of  Florida 

1,301 

1,275 

882 

423 

77 

- 

S.  District  of  Florida 

7 

17 

11 

5 

2 

- 

Total  of  Florida 

2,t>01 

2,482 

1,830 

948 

224 

- 

District  of  Columbia 

794 

944 

542 

375 

114 

3 

T-^tal  of  the  U.  States 

353,845 

313,876 

185,654 

118,995 

41,456 

“718 

MALES. 

FRES 

l COLORED 

Maine 

165 

174 

116 

109 

56 

1 

New  Hampshire  - 

64 

73 

63 

48 

40 

1 

Massachusetts 

804 

886 

725 

635 

321 

5 

Rhode  Island 

330 

501 

314 

241 

150 

3 

Connecticut 

1,022 

1,127 

779 

624 

313 

(* 

#£ 

Vermont 

125 

114 

78 

63 

48 

2 

N.  District  of  N.  Y. 

1,578 

1,607 

1,208 

810 

374 

11 

District  of  N.  Y. 

4.141 

4,490 

3,890 

2,694 

993 

11 

Total  of  New-York. 

5,717 

6,097 

4,898 

3,505^ 

67367 

"22 

New  Jersey 

3,035 

3,247 

1,449 

1,192 

571 

4 

E-  District  of  Penn- 

4,047 

4,229 1 

3,392 

2 338 

897 

24 

W.  District  of  Penn. 

1,140 

1,041 

625 

465 

212 

6 

Total  of  Pennsylvania 

5,187 

“5^70 

4,017 

2,801 

1,109 

30 

Delaware 

2,621 

2,250 

1,300 

1,182 

499 

13 

Maryland 

8,3 1 1 

6,101 

4,016 

4,158 

2,285 

49 

E.  District  of  Virginia 

7,111 

5,250 

3,038 

2,289 

1,461 

24 

W.  District  of  Virginia 

1,115 

| 884 

499 

408 

25S 

3 

Total  of  Virginia 

8,236 

6,184 

3,537 

"2,697 

1,719 

27 

North  Carolina  - 

3,427 

2,961 

1,405 

1,059 

695 

22 

South  Carolina  - 

1,315 

957 

62  2 

424 

333 

19 

Georgia 

358 

354 

221 

185 

117 

11 

- Amount  carried  forwd. 

36,767 

| 36,356 

23,542 

18,912 

9,623 

211 

GA  TE — Continued. 


APPENDIX, 


229 


SLAVES. 

females. 

>>  . 

~s  >» 

g g 

lii 

► >> 
* a 

M « 

£ c 
> © . 
« "O 

'O 

V gj 

•o  'H 

I S’ 

c S 3 

>>  a <r- 
c 3 >> 

CJ 

>-  ^5  > 

w a. 

g 0 

-=  S. 

1^0 

5 

U) 

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3 

||  = 
o 

2 c c 

v. 

O c 

rt 

was 

*>-  T3  £ 

o S 

g 3 

o *o 
C 5 

3 3«,6iS 

499,561 

181,251 

109,336 

40,777 

65V 

137 

121 

6C 

54 

11 

g 

4,630 

4,588 

2.195 

988 

229 

2 

804 

836 

40C 

193 

50 

1 

1 

2 

c 

3 

695 

571 

471 

233 

67 

597 

605 

385 

185 

38 

1 

1,265 

1,266 

698 

346 

73 

3 

7 

10 

4 

2,560 

2,449 

1,561 

768 

176 

816 

1,238 

612 

411 

179 

2 

347,566 

508,793 

186,082 

111,753 

41,422 

668 

PERSONS. 

FEMALES. 

| TOTAL. 

151 

172 

121 

91 

51 

399,428 

72 

S3 

52 

71 

51 

5 

239,533 

823 

958 

810 

651 

3S5 

4 

610,014 

366 

597 

448 

349 

263 

3 

97,210 

1,054 

1,233 

816 

633 

420 

11 

297,711 

121 

126 

78 

70 

58 

4 

280,679 

1.532 

1,851 

1,205 

811 

411 

16 

1,366,467 

3,992 

4,973 

4.325 

3,003 

1,318 

35 

547,041 

5,52  \ 

6,824 

5,530 

3,817 

1,729 

51 

1,913,508 

2,818 

2,900 

1,420 

1,116 

550 

5 

320,779 

4,004 

5,099 

3,873 

2,294 

915 

23 

755.577 

1,059 

1,080 

624 

433 

182 

10 

592,095 

5,0  o3 

6,159 

4,497 

2,727 

1,097 

33 

1,347,672 

2,516 

2,386 

1,447 

1.108 

499 

18, 

76,739 

7,919 

7.314 

5,385 

4,536 

2,782 

86 

446.913 

6,869 

6,184 

3,859 

2,884 

1,788 

23 

832,979 

l.m 

880 

534 

410 

240 

1 

378,293 

7,980 

7,014 

4,393 

3,294 

2,028 

24 

1,211,272 

3,300 

3,129 

1,680 

1,178 

711 

27 

738,470 

1,332 

1,171 

748 

544 

394 

6 

581,458 

348 

329 

235 

182 

127 

6 

516,567 

39,337 

, 30,403 

27,690 

20,397 

11,143 

283 

9,107.751 

224 


appendix* 


GENERAL  AGGRE 
FREE  COLORED 


MALES. 


States  and  Territories. 

in 

c3 

£ tL 

C rt 
~ O 

c 

D 

Of  ten  and  un. 
| twenty -four 

Of  twenty-four 
land  un.  thirty 

L I 

Of  thirty-six  Sj 
un.  fifty-five. 

Of  fiftv-fivc  # 
1 un.  one  hun- 
dred. 

Of  one 
hundred  8; 
upwards. 

Amt.  brought  forward 

36,767 

36,256  , 

2o,  542 

18,912 

9,623 

211 

N.  District  of  Alabama 

69 

50 

65 

38 

!9, 

_ 

S.  District  of  Aabama 

198 

144 

117 

82 

36J 

1 

Total  of  Alabama 

267 

194 

182 

120 

55 

1 

Mississippi 

87 

79 

60 

43 

22 

1 

E.  District  of  Louisiana 

2,090 

1,951 

1,007 

682 

305 

9 

W.  Dist.  of  Louisiana 

432 

, 346 

207 

145 

80 

2 

Total  of  Louisiana 

2,522 

2,297 

1,214 

827 

L. 

385 

11 

E.  District  of  Tenn. 

360 

256 

130 

125 

90 

1 

W.  District  of  Tenn. 

472 

336 

227 

193 

120 

6 

Total  of  Tennessee 

832 

592 

357 

318 

210 

7 

Kentucky 

717 

570 

391 

478 

386 

17 

Ohio 

1,547 

1.469 

823 

644 

335 

8 

Indiana 

598 

1 533 

303 

229 

127 

2 

Illinois  - 

282 

: 243 

136 

123 

44 

1 

Missouri 

8C 

» 73 

47 

55 

i 16 

l 2 

Arkansas 

28 

1 19 

19 

' 15 

. 3 

! 1 

Michigan 

29 

' 42 

45 

> 27 

8 

E.  District  of  Florida 

54 

40 

> 13 

i 24 

19 

» 1 

W.  District  of  Florida 

65 

> 55 

i 26 

1 25 

> 10 

1 - 

Middle  Dist.  of  Florida 

6 

; i 

1 

1 

1 

- 

S.  District  of  Florida 

li 

13 

; e 

; 6 

1 2 

> 

Total  of  Florida 

136 

; log 

i 46 

; 56 

i 32 

: 1 

District  of  Columbia 

895 

i 65C 

l 464 

405 

i 22$ 

) 3 

Total  of  the  U.  States 

3 48/737 

r 43,126 

i 277629 

i 22,262 

: 1 1,475 

3 266 

APPENDIX, 


225 


GA  TE — Continued . 


WHITE  PERSONS. 

FEMALES. 

6 

cj  X? 

3 

^ o 

■a  jb 
g a 
a o 
£ 

g~  s 

*2  3 t4 

« S3  >» 

*r-<  ^3  > 

3 a vs 

a/  . 

i>  T3 

«?  £ 2 
-a 

c:  s s 
<n  =*  g 

2 c ™ 

% S’g 

g-O  1 

TOTAL. 

1 1 
§ £ 

£ ® «2 
ol 

s 

^.ca  ^ 
O 

+3  =3 
£ -a 
O C 

ci 

V.  'Ci 

O 5 <u 

O 

o £ p. 
V-  'TS  3 
O 

33,337 

30,403 

27,690 

20,397 

11,143 

283 

9,107,751 

51 

48 

28 

22 

15 

2 

125,781 

189 

158 

93 

67 

37 

4 

183,425 

243 

206 

126 

89 

52 

6 

309,206 

.72 

< 52 

47 

•49 

17 

136,806 

2,216 

2,401 

1,724 

. 1,265 

657 

25 

155,318 

427 

* 338 

208 

, 134 

.99 

3 

• 60,257 

2,643 

2,739 

1,932 

1,399 

756 

28 

215,575 

346 

269 

166 

11  2 

87 

1 

196,374 

393 

343 

207 

163 

1,05 

5 

488,448 

739 

612 

373 

275 

192 

6 

684,822 

639 

497 

357 

389 

358 

17 

688,844 

1,559 

1,554 

788 

613 

241 

5 

937,679 

587 

553 

284 

235 

106 

5 

341,582 

309 

231 

124 

110 

49 

1 

157,575 

75 

60 

45 

61 

30 

2 

140,084 

17 

13 

16 

7 

6 

30,383 

20 

' 36 

27 

16 

3 

31,260 

59 

53 

36 

21 

23 

8,953 

71 

65 

23 

34 

21 

1 

9,478 

' 2 

2 

3 

1 

15,777 

12 

16 

7 

6 

4 

517 

144 

136 

69 

62 

48 

1 

34,725 

863 

1,033 

682 

564 

368 

7 

39,858 

47,347 

48,125 

32,504 

| 24,266 

13,369 

361 

12,856,154 

Vol.  II. 


30 


226 


APPENDIX. 


AGGRE- 


States  and  Territories. 


Maine  - 
New  Hampshire  - 
Massachusetts 
Rhode  Island 
Connecticut 
Vermont  - 
N.  District  of  N.  Y. 

S.  District  of  N.  Y. 

Total  of  New-York. 

New-Jersey 

E*  District  of  Pennsylvania 
W.  District  of  Pennsylvania 

Total  of  Pennsylvania 

Delaware  - 

Maryland 

E.  District  of  Virginia 
W.  District  of  Virginia 

Total  of  Virginia 

North  Carolina  - 
South  Carolina 
Georgia  - 

N.  District  of  Alabama 
S.  District  of  Alabama 
Total  of  Alabama 

Mississippi  - 

E.  District  of  Louisiana 
W.  District  of  Louisiana 

Total  of  Louisiana 

E.  District  of  Tennessee 
W.  District  of  Tennessee 
Total  of  Tennessee. 

Kentucky  - 

Ohio  - - 

Amount  carried  forward 


WHITE  PERSONS,  included 


Who  are 
deaf  and 
dumb,  under 
14  years 
of  age. 

Who  are  df. 
and  dumb  of 
the  age  of  14 
and  under  25 

! 

Who  are  df, 
' and  dumb, of 
25  and  up- 
wards. 

64 

62 

61 

33 

55 

48 

57 

69 

144 

3 

30 

22 

44 

151 

100 

37 

58 

54 

195 

202 

188 

77 

113 

55 

272 

315 

243 

64 

71 

71 

116 

148 

153 

94 

106 

95 

210 

254 

248 

9 

10 

11 

47 

32 

53 

67 

62 

96 

66 

64 

73 

127 

126 

169 

69 

65 

60 

61 

51 

60 

52 

48 

47 

11 

12 

8 

32 

13 

8 

" 43 

25 

16 

12 

10 

7 

7 

7 

11 

4 

6 

10 

11 

13 

21 

17 

19 

15 

46 

44 

39 

63 

63 

54 

, 92 

109 

82 

161 

164 

121 

1,531 

1,781 

1,692 

APPENDIX, 


227 


GA  TE — Continued 

in  the  foregoing. 

SLAVES  AND  COLORED  PERSONS, 
included  in  the  foregoing. 

Who  are 
blind. 

Aliens — 
Foreigners 
not 

naturalized 

Who  are  deaf 
and  dumb, 
under  four- 
teen years  of 
age. 

Who  are  deaf 
and  dumb,  of 
the  age  of 
fourteen,  and 
under  25. 

] Who  are  deaf 
‘I  and  dumb,  of 
the  age  of 
twenty-five 
<$*  upwards. 

Who  are  blind. 

157 

2,830 

2 

5 

117 

400 

4 

3 

5 

241 

8,735 

3 

2 

4 

61 

1,110 

2 

1 

1 

8 

192 

1,507 

2 

2 

4 

49 

3,420 

1 

1 

438 

29,427 

4 

3 

4 

15 

222 

22,780 

4 

6 

7 

26 

660 

52,207 

8 

9 

11 

41 

176 

3,377 

6 

3 

9 

22 

236 

9,218 

9 

11 

9 

17 

207 

6,147 

O 

o 

4 

11 

443 

15,365 

12 

15 

9 

28 

18 

313 

4 

4 

12 

156 

4,833 

28 

30 

24 

117 

214 

358 

40 

35 

32 

401 

160 

398 

12 

7 

6 

44 

374 

756 

52 

42 

38 

445 

215 

206 

25 

27 

27 

157 

99 

498 

9 

27 

31 

129 

143 

86 

36 

19 

11 

119 

30 

20 

4 

4 

2 

12 

40 

53 

7 

3 

5 

30 

70 

73 

11 

7 

7 

42 

25 

82 

1 

8 

2 

28 

31 

1,580 

4 

4 

8 

65 

7 

120 

4 

1 

1 

15 

38 

1,700 

8 

5 

9 

80 

90 

56 

3 

1 

13 

87 

65 

10 

9 

3 

28 

177 

121 

13 

10 

3 

41 

156 

173 

12 

25 

5 

78 

251 

5,524 

4 

1 

4 

3,866 

103,316 

225 

! 241 

200 

1,364 

228 


APPENDIX. 


GENERAL  AGGRE- 


WHITE  PEOPLE  included 

States  and  Territories. 

Who  are 
deaf  and 
dumb,  under 
14  years  of 
age. 

Who  are 
deaf  and 
dumb,  of  14 
and  under 

J6. 

Who  are 
• deaf  and 
dumb,  of  25 
and  upwards 

Amount  brought  forward 

1,531 

1,781 

1,692 

Indiana 

■54 

50 

_ 

Illinois 

22 

24 

18 

Missouri  - 

17 

7 

9 

Arkansas  - 

5 

2 i 

1 

Michigan  - 

5 

5 

3 

E.  District  of  Florida 

1 

- 

2 

W.  District  of  Florida 

1 

- 

2 

Middle  District  of  Florida 

- 

- ' 

S.  District  of  Florida 

- 

- 

Total  of  Florida 

2 

- 

4 

District  of  Columbia 

4 

5 

3 

Total  of  the  U.  States 

1,640 

1,874 

1,730 

RECAPITULATION  exhibiting  the  general  aggregate  of  each 

FREE  WHITE  PERSONS. 

Males  under  5 years  of  age 

_ 

_ 

972,194 

of  5 and  under  10 

T = ' 

- 

782,637 

of  10  and  under  15 

_ 

- 

671,688 

of  15  and  under  20 

- 

575,614 

of  20  and  under  30 

952,902 

of  30  and  under  40 

_ . 

_ 

592,596 

of  40  and  under  50 

369,370 

of  50  and  under  60 

- 

■- 

230,500 

of  60  and  under  70 

- 

. 

134,910 

of  70  and  under  80 

- 

58,136 

of  80  and  under  90 

■ S . 

_ 

15,945 

of  90  and  under  100 

- 

- 

1,993 

of  100  and  upwards 

274 

5,358,769 

APPENDIX, 


229 


GA  TE — Continued. 


the  foregoing. 


SLAVES  AND  COLORED  PERSONS, 
included  in  the  foregoing. 


Who  are 
blind. 

Aliens — 
Foreigners  not 
naturalized. 

Who  arc  deaf 
and  dumb  un- 
der fourteen 
years  of  age. 

3,866 

103,316 

225 

72 

280 

_ 

36 

447 

28 

155 

- 

8 

8 

5 

4 

1,453 

8 

- 

2 

106 

1 

1 

11 

- 

96 

3 

221 

1 

14 

637 

1 

3,983 

106,544 

232 

Who  are  deaf 
and  dumb,  of 
the  age  of  14 
and  uhder  25. 

Who  are  deaf 
and  dumb,  of 
the  age  of  25 
and  upwards. 

Who  are 
blind. 

241 

' 200 

1,364 

1 

. 

2 

- 

_ 

3 

1 

2 

7 

- 

- 

2 

_ 

2 

8 

1 

1 

6 

1 

1 

2 

2 

3 

16 

2 

1 * - 

8 

247 

205 

1,402 

description  of  persons  in  the  United  States. 


FREE  WHITE  PERSONS. 


Females  under  5 years  of  age  - 920,104 

of  5 and  under  10  - 751,649 

of  10  and  under  15  - - - 639,063 

of  15  and  under  20  597,713 

of  20  and  under  30  - - - 915,662 

of  30  and  under  40  555,565 

of  40  and  under  50  - - - 355,425 

of  50  and  under  60  222,928 

of  60  and  under  70  - - 130,866 

of  70  and  under  80  - 58,034 

of  80  and  under  90  - - 17,572 

of  90  and  under  100  - - - 2,484 

of  100  and  upwards  - - - 234 


5,167,299 

Total  number  of  free  whites  10,526,058 


31 


Vol.  II, 


230 


APPENDIX. 


RECAPITULATION  continued. 

_ ^ 


SLAVES. 

Males  under  10  years  of  age 

of  10  and  under  24  - 

of  24  and  under  36 
of  36  and  under  55  - 

of  55  and  under  100  - 

of  100  and  upwards  ■ 

- 353,845 
313,676 

- 185,654 
118,996 

41,456 

718 

1,014,345 

Females  under  10  years  of  age 

of  10  and  under  24  - 

of  24  and  under  36 

of  36  and  under  55  ~ • 

of  55  and  under  100 

of  100  and  upwards 

- 347,566 
308,793 

- 186,082 
111,753 

41,422 

668 

966,284 

Total  number  of  slaves  2,010,629 

FREE  COLORED  PERSONS. 

Males  under  10  years  - - - - 

of  10  and  under  24 
of  24  and  under  36 
of  36  and  under  55 
of  55  and  under  100 
of  100  and  upwards 

- 48,737 

43,126 
27,629 
22,262 
11,475 
266 

153,495 

Females  under  10  years  of  age 

of  10  and  under  24  - 

of  24  and  under  36 

of  36  and  under  55  - - 

of  55  and  under  100 
of  100  and  upwards  - 

47,347 
48,125 
- 32,504 

24,266 
13,369 
361 

165,972 

Total  number  of  free  colored 

379,467 

Total  aggregate 

12,856,154 

White  persons  included  in  the  foregoing — 

Who  are  deaf  and  dumb,  under  fourteen  years  of  age  - 1,640 

Do.  do.  of  fourteen  and  under  twenty-five  1,874 

Do.  do.  of  twenty-five  and  upwards  - 1,730 

Who  are  blind  - - - - - 3,983 

Aliens.  Foreigners  not  naturalized  - 106,544 

Slaves  and  colored  persons  included  in  the  foregoing — 

Who  are  deaf  and  dumb,  under  fourteen  years  of  age  - 232 

Do.  do.  of  fourteen  and  under  25  - 247 

Do-  do.  of  twenty-five  and  upwards  - 205 

Who  are  blind  - 1,402 

APPENDIX, 


231 


I.  MAINE, 


Table  of  the  Counties  and  County  Towns. 


Counties, 

Pop.  1H20. 

Pop.  1830. 

County  Towns. 

I Pop.  1 

Cumberland 

60,113 

Portland 

12,691 

Hancock 

17,856 

24,347 

Castine 

1,155 

Kennebec 

40,150 

52,491 

Augusta 

3,980 

I Wiscasset 

2,443 

Lincoln 

46,843 

57,181 

< Topsham 

1,664 

(Warren 

2,030 

Oxford 

27,104 

35,217 

Paris 

2,337 

Penobscot 

13,870 

31,530 

Bangor 

2,868 

Somerset 

21,787 

35,788 

Norridgewock 

1,710 

Waldo 

22,253 

29,790 

Belfast 

3,077 

Washington 

12,744 

21,295 

Machias 

1,021 

(York 

3,485 

York 

46,283 

51,710 

( Alfred 

1,453 

Total 

298,335 

399,462 

II. 

NEW  HAMPSHIRE. 

Rockingham 

40,526 

44,452 

(Portsmouth 

8,082 

(Exeter 

2,759 

f Dover 

5,449 

Strafford 

41,415 

58,916 

j Gilmanton 

3,816 

1 Gilford 

1,872 

l Rochester 

2,155 

Merimac 

32,743 

34,619 

Concord 

3,727 

Hillsborough 

35,781 

37,762 

Amherst 

1,657 

Cheshire 

26,753 

27,016 

Keene 

2,374 

Sullivan 

18,628 

19,687 

Newport 

1,913 

j Haverhill 

2,153 

Grafton 

32,989 

38,691 

( Plymouth 

1,175 

Lancaster 

•1,187 

Coos 

5,151 

8,390 

i 

Total 

244,161 

269,533 

1 

VERMONT. 

Addison 

20,469 

24,940 

Middlebury 

3,468 

^Bennington 

3,419 

Bennington 

16,125 

17,470 

(Manchester 

1,525 

Danville 

2,631 

Caledonia 

16,669 

20,967 

Burlington 

3,526 

Chittenden 

16,055 

21,775 

Gildhall 

481 

Essex 

3,284 

3,981 

St.  Albans 

2,375 

Franklin 

17,192 

24,525 

North  Hero 

638 

Grand  Isle 

3,527 

3,696 

Chelsea 

1,958 

Orange 

24,681 

27,285 

Irasburgh 

860 

Orleans 

•6,976 

13,980 

Rutland 

2,753 

Rutland 

29,983 

31,295 

Montpelier 

1,193 

Washington 

14,113 

21,394 

Newfarie, 

1,441 

Windham 

28,659 

28,758 

(Windsor 

3,134 

(Woodstock 

3,044 

Windsor 

38,233 

40,623 

Total 

225,764 

280,679 

232 


APFENDIXc 


IV.  MASSACHUSETTS. 

Table  of  the  Counties  and  County  Towns . 


Counties. 

Males. 

Females, 

Colr’d. 

Tot-  pop. 

County  towns 

Pop. 

Suffolk 

Essex 

Middlesex 

Plymouth 

Norfolk 

Bristol 

Barnstable 
Nantucket 
Dukes 
Worcester 
Hampshire  | 
Hamden  j 
Franklin  1 
Berkshire  1 
Total  jt 

28,586 

39,431 

38,107 

20,905 

20,436 

23,366 

13,997 

3,339 

1,702 

41,545 

14,999 

15,28S 

14,447 

18,310 

31,693 

42,929 

39,348 

21,678 

21,298 

25,178 

14,363 

3,584 

1,768 

42,449 

14,995 

16,003 

14,765 

18,510 

1,883 

527 

513 

410 

169 

930 

165 

279 

48 

371 

225 

349 

132 

1,005 

62,162 

82,887 

77,968 

42,993 

41,901 

49,474 

28,525 

7,202 

3,518 

84,365 

30,210 

31,640 

29,344 

37,825 

Boston 
(Salem 
< Newbury  port 
(Ipswich 
( Cambridge 
( Concord 
Plymouth 
Dedham 
(New  Bedford 
(Taunton 
Barnstable 
Nantucket 
Edgartown 
Worcester 
Northampton 
Springfield 
Greenfield 
Lenox 

61,392 

13,886 

6,388 

2,951 

6,071 

2,017 

4,751 

3,057 

7,592 

6,045 

3,975 

7,202 

1,509 

4,172 

3,613 

6,784 

1,540 

1,355 

294,449 

308,559 

7,006 

610,014 

V,  RHODE  ISLAND. 


Counties. 

Pop.  1820. 

Pop.  1830. 

County  Towns. 

Pop.  1830. 

Providence 
Newport 
Washington 
Kent  • 

Bristol 

Total 

35,786 

15,771 

15,687 

10,228 

5,637 

47,014 

16,534 

15,414 

12,784 

5,466 

Providence 
Newport 
South  Kingston 
East  Greenwich 
Bristol 

16,832 

8,010 

3,663 

1,591 

3,054 

83,059“ 

97,212 

VI.  CONNECTICUT. 


Fairfield 

Hartford 

Litchfield 

Middlesex 

New  Haven 

New  London 

Tolland 

Windham 

42,739 

47,264 

41,267 

22,405 

39,616 

35,943 

14.330 

25.331 

46,950 

51,141 

42,855 

24,845 

43,548 

42,295 

18,700 

27,077 

(Fairfidel 
(Danbury 
Hartford 
Litchfield 
(Middletown 
(Haddam 
New  Haven 
(New  London 
(Norwich 
• Tolland 
Brooklyn 

4,226 

4,311 

7,076 

4,456 

6,892 

3,025 

10,180 

4,356 

3,144 

1,698 

1,413 

Total 

275,248 

297,711 

A 


APPENDIX, 


233 


VII.  NEW  YORK. 

Table  of  the  Counties  and  County  Towns. 
South  District. 


Counties. 

Pop,  1820. 

Pop.  1830. 

County  Towns. 

| Pop 

Columbia 

38,330 

39,952 

Hudson 

5,395 

Dutchess 

46,615 

50,926 

29,525 

Poughkeepsie 

7,222 

Greene 

22,996 

Catskill 

4,868 

King’s 

11,187 

20.537 

Flatbush 

1,143 

New  York. 

123,706 

203,007 

(New  York. 

203,007 

Orange 

41,213 

45,372 

(Goshen 

Newburgh 

3,361 

6,424 

Putnam 

11,268 

12,701 

Carmel 

2,379 

Queen’s 

21,519 

22,276 

N.  Hempstead 

Richmond 

6,135 

7,084 

Richmond 

Rockland 

8,837 

9,388 

Clarkstown, 

2,298 

Suffolk 

24,272 

26,980 

Suffolk  C.  H. 

Sullivan 

8,900 

' 12,372 

Monticello, 

Ulster 

30,934 

36,551 

Kingston 

4,170 

Westchester 

32,638 

36,456 

Bedford 

2,750 

Total  S.  Dist. 

428,550 

537,041 

North  District. 

Albany 

38,116 

53,569  1 

1 Albany 

! 24,238 

Alleghany 

9.320 

26,218 

Angelica 

998 

Broome  ' 

11,100 

17,582 

Binghampton 

1,203 

Cataraugus 

4,090 

16,726 

Ellicottsville 

626 

Cayuga 

38,897 

47,947 

Auburn 

4,486 

Chatauque 

12,568 

34,057 

Mayville 

Chenango 

31,215 

37,404 

Norwich 

3,774 

Clinton 

12,070 

19,344 

Plattsburgh 

4,913 

Cortland 

16,507 

23,693 

Cortlandville 

3,573 

Delaware 

26,587 

32,933 

Delhi 

2,114 

Erie 

15,668 

35,710 

Buffalo, 

8,653 

Essex 

12,811 

19,387 

Elizabethtown 

1,729 

Franklin 

4.439 

11,312 

Malone, 

2,207  ■ 

Genessee 

39,835 

51,992 

Batavia 

4,271 

Hamilton 

1,251 

1,324 

Wells 

340 

Herkimer 

31,017 

55,869 

Herkimer 

2,486 

Jefferson 

32,952 

48,515 

Watertown 

4,708 

Lewis 

9,227 

14,958 

Martinsburgh 

2,382 

Livingston 

19,196 

27,719 

Geneseo 

2,675 

Madison 

32,208 

30,037 

j Cazenovia 
jj Morrisville 

Monroe 

26,529 

49,862 

Rochester 

9,269 

Montgomery 

27,569 

43,596 

Johnstown 

7,700 

Niagara 

7,322 

18,485 

Lockport 

2,022 

1 Utica 

8,323 

Oneida 

50,997 

71,326 

^Rome 

( Whitesborough 

4,360 

Vol.  II. 


32 


•234 


APPENDIX, 


AJBTF  YORK  Continued. 


Counties. 

Pop. 1S20 

Pop-  1830. 

County  Towns. 

Pop. 

Onondaga 

41.461 

48,974 

Syracuse 

Ontario 

35,312 

40,167 

Canandaigua 

5,162 

Orleans 

7,625 

18,485 

Albion 

Oswego 

12,374 

27,104  j 

) Oswego 
(Richland 

2,703 

2.733 

Otsego 

44.856 

51,372  ! 

Cooperstown 

1,115 

Rensellaer 

40.153 

49,472 

Troy 

11,405 

Saratoga 

36.052 

36.616 

Ballston 

2,113 

St.  Lawrence 

16.037 

36,351 

Potsdam 

3,650 

Schenectady 

13.0S1 

12,334 

Schenectady 

4,258 

Schoharie 

23,154  1 

27,910 

Schoharie 

5,146 

Seneca 

17,773 

: 

21,031 

iOvid 

(Waterloo 

2,756 

1,837 

Steuben 

21,989 ! 

33,975 

Bath 

3.387 

Tioga 

14,716 

1 27,704 

\ Elmira 

2,962 

1 7 

( Owego 

3,080 

Tomkins 

26.178 

36,545  1 

Ithica 

5^270 

797 

Warren 

9,453 

11,795 

j Caldwell 

Washington 

3S,S31 

42.615 

j Salem 
( Sandy  Hill 

2,972 

Wayne 

20,319  | 

j 33,555 

( Lyons 

3,603 

Yates 

11,025 

19,019 

\ Palmyra 
Penn  Vann 

3,434 

Total  N.  List. 

944,262 

1 1.366,467 

Total  N.  Dist. 

1,913,50S 

! of  whom  46  are  slaves. 

VIII.  NEW  JERSEY. 


Table  of  Counties. 


Counties. 

Pop.  1820. 

Pop.  1830. 

Bergen  - 

18,178 

22,414 

Burlington  - 

28,822 

31,066 

Cape  May.  - 

4,265 

4,945 

Cumberland  - 

12,668 

14,091 

Essex  - 

30,793 

41,928 

Gloucester  ...» 

23,039 

98,431 

Hunterdon  - 

28,604 

31,066 

Middlesex  - 

21,470 

23,157 

Monmouth  - 

25.038 

29,233 

Morris  - 

21,368 

23,5S0 

Salem  - 

14.022 

14,155 

Somerset  .... 

16.506 

17.6S9 

Sussex  .... 

Warren  - 

32,752 

20.349 

18,634 

Of  whom  2,446  are  slaves:  Total 

277,575 

320,779 

Population  of  the  Principal  Toicns  in  1S30 
Newark  10.952  Paterson  7,731  Elizabethtown  3,451 

New  Brunswick  7,831  Trenton  3,925 


APPENDIX 


235 


IX.  PENNSYLVANIA. 

Table  of  the  Counties  and  County  towns. 
Eastern  District. 


Coundes. 

Pop  1820 

Pop.  1830. 

1 

County  Towns. 

, Pop. 

Adams 

19,370 

21,379 

Gettysburg 

1,473 

Berks 

46,275 

53,357 

Reading 

5,859 

Bucks 

37,842 

45,740 

i 

j Doyleston 
/ Bristol 

1,262 

Chester 

44,451 

50,908 

West  Chester 

1,258 

Cumberland 

23,606 

29,218 

Carlisle 

2,523 

Delaware 

14,810 

21,653 

17,361 

Chester 

848 

Dauphin 

25,303 

Harrisburg 

4,311 

Franklin 

31,892 

35,103 

Chambersburg 

2,794 

Lehigh 

18,892 

22,266 

Allentown 

Lancaster 

68,336 

76,558 

Lancaster 

Lebanon 

16,988 

20,546 

Lebanon 

7,704 

Montgomery 

35,793 

39,404 

Norristown 

1,826 

Northampton 

31,765 

39,267 

Easton 

1,089 

Perry 

11,342 

14,257 

New  Bloomfield 

3,529 

Philadelphia 
^Philadelphia  city 

73,295 

63,802 

108,503 

80,458 

j 

| Philadelphia 

80,458 

Pike 

2,894 

4,843 

Milford 

Schuylkill 

11,339 

20,783 

Orwigsburg 

773 

Wayne 

4,127 

7,663 

Bethany 

327 

York 

38,759 

42,658 

York 

4,216 

Western  District 


Alleghany 
^Pittsburgh  city. 

27,673 

7,248 

37,964 

12,542 

| Pittsburgh 

12,542 

Armstrong 

10,324 

17,625 

Kittaning 

1,620 

Beaver 

15,340 

24,206 

Beaver 

914 

Bedford 

20,248 

24,536 

Bedford 

870 

Bradford 

11,554 

19,669 

Towanda 

Butler 

10,193 

14,683 

Butler 

580 

Cambria 

2,287 

7,079 

Ebensburg 

220 

Centre 

13,796 

18,765 

Bellefonte 

699 

Clearfield 

2,342 

4,803 

Clearfield 

Columbia 

17,621 

20,049 

Danville 

Crawford 

9,397 

16,005 

Meadville 

1,070 

Erie 

8,553 

17,906 

Erie 

1,329 

Fayette 

27,285 

29,237 

Union  town 

1,341 

Greene 

15.554 

18,028 

Waynesburg 

Huntingdon 

20^144 

27,159 

Huntingdon 

Indiana 

8,882 

14,251 

Indiana 

433 

Jefferson 

561 

2,225 

Brookville 

Luzerne 

20,027 

27,304 

Wilkesbarre 

2,233 

Lycoming 

13,517 

17,637 

Williamsport 

McKean 

728 

1,439 

Smithport 

Mercer 

11,681 

19,731 

Mercer 

656 

* Philadelphia  and  Pittsburgh  exclusive  of  the  suburbs. 
Total  of  the  former  city  and  suburbs,  for  1830.  167,811. 
Total  of  the  latter  city  and  suburbs  for  1830,  17,000. 


236 


APPENDIX, 


Pennsylvania  continued. 


Counties. 

Pop.  1320.  I Pop.  1830. | 

County  Towns. 

1 p°p- 

Mifflin 

1 16,618 

21,529 

1 Lewistown 

1,479 

Northumberland 

15,424 

18,168 

Sunbury 

1,057 

Potter 

186 

1,265 

Cowdersport 

Somerset 

13,974 

17,441 

Somerset 

649 

Susquehannah 

9,660 

16,777 

Montrose 

415 

Tioga 

4,021 

9,062 

Wellsborough 

Union 

18,619 

20,749 

New  Berlin 

Venango 

1,976 

4,706 

Warren 

Warren 

40,038 

42,860 

Washington 

1,816 

Washington 

4,915 

9,128 

Franklin 

409 

Westmoreland 

30,540 

38,400 

Greensburg 

810 

X.  DELAWARE. 


Table  of  the  Counties. 


Counties.  I 

Pop.  1820. 

[ Pop,  1830. 

Kent  - 

20,793  1 

1 19,911 

New  Castle  - - 

27,899 

29,710 

Sussex  - 

24,057 

27,118 

of  whom  3,305,  are  slaves.  Total  | 

72,674  | 

76,639 

XI.  MARYLAND. 

Western  Shore. 

Alleghany  - 

8,654 

10,602 

Anne  Arundell 

21,165 

28,295 

Baltimore  - 

33,663 

40,251 

Baltimore  city  - 

62,738 

80,625 

Calvert  - 

8,073 

8,899 

Charles  - 

16,500 

17,666 

Frederick  - 

40,459 

45,793 

Hartford  - - - 

15,924 

16,315 

Montgomery  - 

16,400 

19,816 

Prince  George’s 

20,216 

20,473 

St.  Mary’s  - 

12,974 

13,455 

Washington 

23,075 

25,265 

Eastern  Shore. 

Caroline  - 

10,018 

9,070 

Cecil  .... 

10,048 

15,432 

Dorchester  - 

17,759 

18,685 

Kent  - 

11,453 

10,562 

Queen  Anne’s 

14,952 

14,396 

Somerset  . 

19,579 

20,155 

Talbot  - - - 

14,387 

12,947 

Worcester  - - 

17,421 

18,271 

Total 

407,350 

446,913 

APPENDIX. 

Maryland  continued. 

Population  of  the  principal  Towns 

Baltimore  - 80,625  Hagerstown 

Frederick  - 4,427  Annapolis 

XII.  VIRGINIA. 

Table  of  the  Counties . 
Eastern  District. 


Counties. 

Whites. 

Slaves. 

Free  blacks. 

Total  Pop.l83(h 

Accomac 

9,458 

4,654 

2,544 

19,656 

Albemarle 

10,455 

11,689 

484 

22,618 

Amelia 

3,293 

7,518 

220 

11,031 

Amherst 

5,879 

5,927 

263 

32,072 

Bedford 

11,113 

8,790 

341 

20,253 

Brunswick 

5,397 

9,760 

612 

15,770 

Buckingham 

7,172 

10,928 

245 

18,351 

Campbell 

7,497 

7,735 

473 

15,704 

Lynchburg  town 

2,490 

1,751 

385 

4,626 

Caroline 

6,490 

10,764 

520 

17,774 

Charles  City 

1,782 

2,957 

761 

15,504 

Charlotte 

5,583 

9,432 

236 

15,252 

Chesterfield 

7,709 

10,337 

591 

18,637 

Culpepper 

12,044 

11,419 

563 

24,026 

Cumberland 

4,054 

7,309 

326 

11,689 

Dinwiddie 

7,709 

10,337 

591 

18,637 

Petersburgh  town 

3,440 

2,850 

2,032 

8,322 

Elizabeth  City 

2,704 

2,218 

131 

5,068 

Essex 

3,647 

6,417 

467 

10,531 

Fairfax 

4,892 

3,972 

311 

9,206 

Fauquier 

13,116 

12,612 

621 

26,379 

Fluvanna 

4,223 

3,765 

203 

8,221 

Franklin 

9,728 

4,988 

196 

14,911 

Gloucester 

4,314 

5,691 

603 

10,608 

Goochland 

3,857 

5,706 

795 

10,358 

Greenville 

2,104 

4,681 

332 

7,117 

Halifax 

12,915 

14,527 

590 

28,032 

Hanover 

6,526 

9,278 

449 

16,253 

Henrico 

5,717 

5,934 

1,089 

12,738 

Richmond  city 

7,757 

6,345 

1,966 

16,060 

Henry 

4,058 

2,868 

174 

7,100 

Isle  of  Wight 

5,023 

4,272 

1,222 

10,517 

James  City 

1,284 

1,983 

571 

3,838 

King  and  Queen 

4,714 

6,514 

416 

11,644 

King  George 

2,475 

3,635 

287 

6,397 

King  William 

3,155 

6,310 

347 

9,812 

Lancaster 

1,976 

2,631 

195 

4,800 

Loudon 

15,517 

5,360 

1,062 

21,938 

237 


3,371 

2,623 


Vol.  II. 


33 


238 


APPENDIX, 


Virginia  continued. 


Counties. 

Whites* 

Slaves. 

Free  blacks. 

Tot. Pop, 1830- 

Louisa 

6,468 

9,382 

301 

16,151 

Lunenburg 

4,479 

7,233 

245 

11,957 

Madison 

4,389 

4,873 

71 

9,236 

Matthews 

3,995 

3,481 

189 

7,663 

Mecklenburg 

7,443 

11,950 

874 

20,366 

Middlesex 

1,870 

2,137 

118 

4,122 

Nansemond 

5,143 

4,943 

1,698 

11,784 

Nelson 

5,186 

5,946 

122 

11,251 

New  Kent 

2,586 

3,550 

342 

6,457 

Norfolk 

8,180 

5,842 

966 

14,998 

Norfolk,  borough 

5,131 

3.757 

928 

9,816 

Northampton 

3,573 

3,734 

1,334 

8,644 

Northumberland 

4,039 

3,357 

567 

7,953 

Nottoway 

2,949 

6,985 

223 

10,141 

Orange 

6,456 

7,983 

198 

14,637 

Patrick 

5,494 

1,782 

117 

7,393 

Pittsylvania 

14,690 

10,992 

340 

26,022 

Powhatan 

2,661 

5,472 

384 

8,517 

Prince  Edward 

5,039 

8,593 

475 

14,107 

Prince  George 

3,066 

4,598 

700 

8,368 

Prince  William 

5,127 

3,842 

361 

9,330 

Princess  Anne 

5,023 

3,736 

343 

9,102 

Richmond 

2,975 

2,630 

451 

6,056 

Southamptou 

6,573 

7,755 

1,745 

16,073 

Spottsylvania 

4,685 

6,925 

310 

11,920 

Fredericksburg,  town 

1,798 

1,125 

384 

3,307 

Stafford 

4,713 

4,164 

485 

9,362 

Surry 

2,865 

3,377 

866 

7,108 

Sussex 

4,118 

7,636 

866 

12,720 

Warwick 

619 

892 

27 

1,570 

Westmoreland 

3,718 

3,845 

848 

8,411 

York 

2,129 

2,598 

627 

5,354 

Total 

375,940 

416,259 

40,780 

832,979 

Western  District. 

Alleghany 

2,197 

571 

48 

2,816 

Augusta,  North 

7,208 

1,677 

257 

9,142 

Augusta,  South 

8,048 

2,588 

147 

10,783 

Bath 

2,803 

1,140 

65 

4,008 

Berkley 

823 

1,919 

276 

10,528 

Bottetourt 

11,808 

4,170 

386 

16,354 

Brooke 

6,774 

227 

36 

7,040 

Cabell 

5,267 

561 

56 

5,884 

Frederick,  East 

8,104 

5,242 

653 

14,099 

Frederick,  West 

9,260 

2,088 

598 

11,946 

Giles 

4,779 

470 

49 

5,298 

Grayson 

7,161 

462 

52 

7,675 

APPENDIX. 


230 


Virginia  continued. 


Counties. 

Whites. 

Slaves- 

Free  blacks’ 

Tot.Pop.1830. 

Greenbrier 

7,791 

1,159 

65 

9,015” 

Harrison,  East  - 

9,443 

626 

50 

10,119 

Harrison,  West 
Hampshire 

4,404 

145 

10 

4,558 

9,796 

1,330 

153 

11,279 

Hardy 

5,408 

1,167 

223 

6,798 

Jefferson 

8,438 

3,999 

492 

12,927 

Kenhawa 

7,468 

1,718 

75 

9,261 

Lee 

5,830 

612 

19 

6,461 

Lewis 

6,066 

163 

13 

6,241 

Logan 

3,511 

163 

6 

3,680 

Monongalia,  East 

6,352 

233 

103 

6,688 

Monongalia,  West 

7,223 

129 

16 

7,368 

Mason 

5,776 

713 

45 

6,534 

Monroe 

7,033 

682 

83 

7,798 

Montgomery 

10,212 

2,037 

55 

12,304 

Morgan 

2,517 

153 

22 

2,692 

Nicholas 

3,229 

119 

1 

3,349 

Ohio 

15,033 

362 

195 

15,590 

Pendleton 

5,750 

498 

23 

6,271 

Pocahontas 

2,297 

227 

17 

2,541 

Preston 

4,947 

125 

27 

5,099 

Randolph 

4,426 

259 

115 

5,000 

Rockbridge 

10,465 

3,908 

381 

14,244 

Rockingham 

17,814 

2,331 

548 

20,693 

Russell 

6,002 

679 

36 

6,717 

Scott 

5,349 

338 

15 

5,702 

Shenandoah,  East 

7,171 

992 

164 

8,327 

Shenandoah,  West 

96,98 

1,431 

294 

11,423 

Tazewell 

4,912 

820 

18 

4,104 

Tyler 

3,991 

nos 

5 

5,750 

Washington 

12,785 

2,568 

261 

15,614 

Wood 

5,487 

873 

49 

6,409 

Wythe 

9,952 

2,094 

117 

12,163 

Total  of  Western  District 
Total  of  Virginia 

318,505 

53,465 

6,123 

378,293 

694,445 

469,724 

47,103 

1,211,272 

Population  of  the  Principal  Towns  in  1830. 

Richmond  16,060  Petersburgh  8,322  Fredericksburg  3,307 

Norfolk  9,816  Wheeling  5,221  Staunton 1£26 


240 


APPENDIX 


XIII.  NORTH  CAROLINA, 


Table  of  the  Counties. 


Counties, 

Pop.  1820. 

Pop.  1830. 

Anson  - 

12,534 

14,081 

Ashe  - 

4,335 

6,991 

Beaufort  - 

9,850 

10,949 

Bertie  - 

10,805 

12,276 

Bladen 

7,276 

7,801 

Brunswick  - 

5,480 

6,523 

Buncombe 

10,542 

16,259 

Burke  - 

13,412 

17,727 

Cabarras 

7,248 

8*796  ’ 

Camden  - 

6,347 

6,721 

Carteret  - 

5,609 

6,607 

Caswell  - 

13,253 

15,188 

Chatham 

12,661 

15,499 

Chowan  - 

6,464 

6,688 

Columbus 

3,912 

4,141 

Craven  - 

13,394 

14,325 

Cumberland 

14,446 

14,824 

Currituck 

Davidson  ... 

8,098 

7,654 

13,421 

Duplin  - 

9,744 

11,373 

Edgecombe 

13,276 

14,933 

Franklin 

9,741 

10,665 

Gates  - 

6,837 

7,866 

Granville  - 

18,222 

19,343 

Greene  - 

4,533 

6,313 

Guilford  - 

14,511 

18,735 

Halifax  - 

17,237 

17,738 

Haywood  - 

4,073 

4,593 

Hertford 

7,712 

8,541 

Hyde  - - 

4,967 

6,177 

Iredell 

13,071 

15,262 

Johnston  - 

9,607 

10,938 

Jones  - 

5,216 

5,628 

Lenoir  - 

6,799 

7,635 

Lincoln 

Macon  - 

18,147 

22,625 

5,390 

Martin  - 

6,320 

8,544 

Mecklenburg  - 

16,895 

20,076 

Montgomery  - 

8,693 

10,918 

Moore  - 

7,128 

7,753 

Nash  - 

8,185 

8,492 

New  Hanover  - 

10,866 

10,759 

Northampton  - 

13,242 

13,103 

Onslow  - 

7,016 

7,814 

Orange 

1 23,492 

23,875 

APPENDIX. 


241 


North  Carolina  continued. 


Counties. 

Pop.  1820. 

Pop.  1830, 

Pasquotank 

- . 

- 

- 

8,008 

8,616 

Perquimans 

- 

. - 

6,857 

7,417 

Person 

- 

■v 

9,029 

10,027 

Pitt 

( 

10,001 

12,174 

Randolph 

7 - 

11,331 

12,400 

Richmond 

7,537 

9,326 

Robeson 

- 

- 

8,204 

9,355  , 

Rockingham 

- 

11,474 

12,920 

Rowan 

- ~ ; 

, 

26,009 

20,796 

Rutherford 

15,351 

17,557 

Sampson 

; .. 

- 

L 

8,908 

11,768 

Stokes 

- 

> - 

14,033 

16,196 

Surry 

- 

- 

12,320 

14,501 

Tyrrell 

- 

. 

4,319 

4,732 

Wake 

i 

' - 1 ’ 

< - » 

20,102 

20,417 

Warren 

- 

_ 

11,004 

10,916 

Washington 

- 

- 

3,986 

4,562 

Wayne 

''  - 

9,040 

10,902 

Wilkes 

- 

- 

- 

9,967 

11,942 

Total 

I 638,829 

738,470 

Population  of  the  Principal  Towns  in  1830. 

Newbern 

3,776 

Raleigh 

1,700  Tarborough  971 

Fayetteville 

2,868 

Salisbury  1,613  Warrenton  962 

Plymouth  660 

XIV. 

SOUTH  CAROLINA. 

Population  of  the  Districts  and  other  Divisions,  as  given  in  the 

Census  of  1830. 

Abbeville 

District 

28,134 

Chester 

Distinct,  19,182 

Anderson 

do. 

17,170 

Chesterfield  do. 

8,472 

Barnwell 

do. 

19,236 

Colleton 

do. 

27,256 

Charleston 

City. 

30,289 

Edgefield 

do. 

30,511 

Charleston  Neck 

10,054 

Fairfield 

do. 

21,546 

St.  Andrew’s 

Parish 

3,727 

Georgetown  do. 

19,943 

St.  John’s  Colleton. 

10,045 

Greenville 

do. 

16,476 

St.  James,  Goose  Creek 

8,632 

Horry 

do. 

5,323 

St.  Stephen’s 

2,416 

Kershaw 

do. 

13,545 

Christ  Church 

3,412 

Lancaster 

do. 

10,361 

St.  James,  Santee 

3,743 

Laurens 

do. 

20,863 

St.  Thomas  and  St.  Dennis 

3,055 

Lexington 

do. 

9,076 

St.  Peter’s 

Parish 

3,834 

Marion 

do. 

11,208 

St.  Helena 

8,799  ’ 

Marlborough  do. 

8,578 

St.  Luke’s 

9,659 

Newberry 

do. 

17,441 

Prince  William’s 

9,040 

Orangeburgh  do. 

18,455 

Vol.  II.  34 


242 


APPENDIX, 


South  Carolina  continued. 


Pickens 

District 

14,475 

Union 

j 

do. 

17,908 

Richland 

do. 

11,465 

Washington 

do. 

13,728 

Columbia 

Toivn, 

3,310 

Williamsburgh 

do. 

9,015 

Spartanburgh, 

District , 

21,148 

York 

do . 

17,785 

Sumpter, 

do. 

28,278 

Population 

of  Charleston  and  Columbia. 

Charleston,  1830, 

30,289 

Columbia  1830,  3,310 

XV.  GEORGIA. 

Table  of  the  Counties , 1830. 

Counties, 

Whites. 

Colored. 

Total  Pop. 

Appling* 

- 

- 

- 

- 

1,284 

184 

1,468 

Baker 

- 

- 

977 

276 

1,253 

Baldwin 

- 

- 

- 

- 

2,724 

4,565 

7,289 

Bibb 

- 

- 

4,138 

3,005 

7,143 

Bryan 

- 

- 

- 

- 

723 

2,416 

3,139 

Bullock  - 

- 

- 

1,933 

653 

2,586 

Burke 

- 

- 

- 

5,066 

6,767 

11,833 

Butts 

- 

- 

3,225 

1,687 

4,912 

Camden 

- 

- 

- 

- , 

1,458 

3,120 

4,578 

Campbell 

- 

- 

2,694 

629 

3,323 

Carroll 

- 

• 

- 

- 

2,723 

696 

3,419 

Chatham 

- 

- 

4,325 

9,905 

14,230 

Clarke 

- 

. 

5,438 

4,738 

10,176 

Columbia 

- 

4,471 

8,135 

12,606 

Coweta 

- 

- 

3,634 

1,372 

5,006 

Crawford 

- 

- / 

3,591 

1,723 

5,314 

Decatur 

2,541 

1,307 

3,848 

Dekalb  - 

- 

- 

8,376 

1,671 

10,047 

Dooly 

- 

- 

- 

1,787 

348 

,2,135 

Early 

- 

- 

1,505 

546 

2,051 

Effiingham 

- 

- 

- 

1,746 

1,223 

2,969 

Elbert  - 

- 

, 

6,501 

5,853 

12,354 

Emanuel 

- 

- 

- 

2,168 

513 

2,681 

Fayette  - 

- 

4,268 

1,233 

5,501 

Franklin 

- 

r 

„ 

7,712 

2,423 

10,135 

Glynn 

- 

• 

597 

3,970 

4,467 

Greene 

. 

- 

■ _ 

- 

5,026 

7,525 

12,551 

Gwinnett 

10,938 

2,282 

13,220 

Habersham 

_ 

9,733 

915 

10,648 

Hall 

- 

- 

10,573 

1,182 

11,755 

Hancock 

- 

_ 

- 

,, 

4,607 

7,215 

11,822 

Harris 

_ ^ 

_ 

2,831 

2,274 

5,105 

Henry 

„ 

- 

- 

- 

7,991 

2,576 

10,567 

Houston 

.. 

_ 

5,161 

2,208 

7,369 

Irwin 

_ 

_ 

_ 

1,066 

114 

1,180 

Jackson 

- 

- 

6,184 

2, 816|  9,0Q0j 

APPENDIX, 


243 


Georgia  continued. 

Counties. 

Jasper 

Jefferson 

Jones  - 

Laurens  - 

Lee  - 

Liberty  - 

Lincoln 

Lowndes 

Madison 

McIntosh 

Marion 

Meriwether 

Monroe 

Montgomery 

Morgan  - 

Muscogee 

Newton  - - 

Oglethorpe 

Pike 

Pulaski  - 

Putnam 

Rabun  - 

Randolph 

Richmond 

Scriven 

Talbot 

Taliaferro 

Tatnall  - 

Telfair 

Thomas 

Troup 

Twiggs  - 

Upson 

Walton  - 

Ware 

Warren  - 

Washington  - 
Wayne  - 
Wilkes  - 
Wilkinson 

Population  of 

Savannah  7,303  Macon 

Augusta  6,696  Columbia 


Whites. 

Colored. 

Total  Pop, 

- 

6,767 

6,364 

13,131 

3,603 

3,706 

7,309 

- 

6,469 

6,873 

13,342 

3,188 

2,390 

5,578 

1,367 

307 

1,674 

1,588 

5,646 

7,234 

_ 

2,824 

3,313 

6,137 

2,113 

340 

2,453 

- 

3,365 

1,261 

4,626 

1,095 

3,903 

4,998 

_ 

1,327 

109 

1,436 

3,018 

1,406 

4,424 

- 

8,836 

7,366 

16,202 

934 

335 

1,269 

. 

5,146 

6,877 

12,023 

2,261 

1,247 

3.508 

_ ■ 

8,131 

3,023 

11,154 

5,554 

8,004 

13,558 

4,362 

1,694 

6,056 

3,117 

1,782 

4,899 

5,512 

7,744 

13,656 

2,114 

61 

2,175 

_ 

1,508 

683 

2,191 

5,163 

6,481 

11,644 

2,387 

2,389 

4,776 

3,839 

2,101 

5,940 

0 

2,162 

2,770 

4,934 

1,519 

520 

2,039 

_ 

1,569 

567 

2,136 

2,127 

1,169 

3,296 

3,607 

2,192 

5,799 

4,495 

3,534 

8,029 

. 

4,444 

2,569 

7,013 

7,763 

3,168 

10,931 

_ 

1,132 

62 

1,194 

6,044 

4,802 

10,846 

_ 

5,905 

3,915 

9,820 

676 

286 

962 

_ 

5,265 

8,972 

14,237 

4,603 

1,955 

6,558 

the  principal  towns. 

2,609  Milledgeville  1,599 

2,000  Athens  1,100 


244 


appendix. 


XVI.  ALABAMA. 


Table  of  the  Counties. 


Counties 

Population  1830. 

1 Counties. 

Population  1830.  J 

Autauga 

11,872 

Lowndes 

9,421 

Baldwin 

2,824 

Madison 

- 

28,011 

Bibb 

= 6,305 

Marengo 

7,742 

Blount 

4,233 

Marion 

4,058 

Butler 

5,634 

Mobile 

3,071 

Clarke 

7,584 

Mobile  City 

- 

3,194 

Conecuh 

7,444 

Monroe 

8,780 

Covington 

1,522 

Montgomery 

- 

12,694 

Dale 

2,021 

Morgan 

9,053 

Dallas 

14,017 

Perry 

- 

11,509 

Fayette 

3,470 

Pickens 

6,620 

Franklin 

11,078 

Pike 

- 

7,103 

Greene 

15,026 

St.  Clair 

5,975 

Henry 

3,955 

Shelby 

- 

5,521 

Jackson, 

12,702 

Tuscaloosa 

13,646 

Jefferson 

6,855 

Walker 

_ 

2,202 

Lauderdale 

11,782 

Washington 

2,472 

Lawrence 

14,984 

Wilcox 

- 

3,468 

Limestone 

14,848 

Tuscaloosa  town  1820 

1,600 

XVII.  MISSISSIPPI. 

Table  of  the  Counties . 

Adams 

12,129 

Lowndes 

3,342 

Natchez,  city 

2,790 

Madison 

- 

4,973 

Amite 

7,943 

Marion 

3,701 

Claiborne 

9,818 

Monroe 

- 

3,855 

Copiah 

7,024 

Perry 

2,285 

Covington 

2,549 

Pike 

- 

5,402 

Franklin 

4,622 

Rankin 

2,084 

Greene 

1,849 

Simpson 

- 

2,666 

Hancock 

1,961 

Warren 

7,861 

Hinds 

8,619 

Washington 

- 

1,976 

Jackson 

1,789 

Wayne 

2,778' 

Jefferson 

9,755 

Wilkinson 

- 

11,693 

Jones 

1,471 

Yazoo 

6,550 

Lawrence 

5,321 

XVIII.  LOUISIANA. 

Table  of  Parishes. 

Eastern  District. 

Ascension 

5,400 

Feliciana,  East 

8,247 

Assumption 

5,670 

Feliciana,  West, 

- 

8,629 

Baton  Rouge,  East 

, 6,717 

Iberville 

7,050 

Baton  Rouge,  West,  3,092  j 

Jefferson 

- 

6,846 

Concordia 

4,662  | 

Lafourche  Interior 

5,500 

APPENDIX 


245 


Louisiana  continued. 


Parishes.  Population^ 

Counties. 

Population. 

Orleans  - 3,792 

St.  Helena 

4,027 

N.  Orleans,  city  <^j*  suburbs , 46,310 

St.  James 

- 

7,672 

Plaquemines  4,489 

St.  John  Baptist 

5,700 

Point  Coupee  - 5,936 

St.  Tammany 

2,864 

St.  Bernard  - 3,356 

Terre  Bonne 

2,121 

St.  Charles  - 5,107 

Washington 

2,286 

of  whom  80,421  are  slaves.  Total  Eastern  District  155,318 

Western  District. 

Avoyelles  - 3,488 

Rapides 

- 

7,559 

Catahoula  - 2,576 

St.  Landry 

12,552 

Claiborne  - 1,764 

St  Martin’s 

7,204 

Lafayette  - 5,606 

St  Mary’s 

- 

6,442 

Nachitoches  - 7,926 

Washita 

- 

5,140 

of  whom  29,210  are  slaves.  Total  Western  District  60,257 

XIX.  TENNESSEE. 

Table  of  the  Counties. 

West  Tennessee. 

Counties. 

1 Pop.  1820. 

I Pop,  1830* 

Bedford 

- 

16,012 

30,444 

Carroll  - 

9,378 

Davidson 

- 

20,154 

22,523 

Nashville,  town 

5,566 

Dickson 

- 

5,190 

7,261 

Dyer 

1,904 

Fayette 

- 

8,654 

Fentress  - 

2,760 

Franklin 

- 

16,571 

15,644 

Gibson 

5,801 

Giles 

12,558 

18,920 

Hardiman 

- 

11,628 

Hardin 

1,462 

4,867 

Haywood 

5,356 

Henderson 

8,741 

Henry 

- 

12,230 

Hickman 

6,080 

8,132 

Humphreys 

' n 

4,067 

6,189 

Jackson 

7,593 

9,902 

Lawrence 

3,271 

5,412 

Lincoln 

14,761 

22,086 

Madison 

11,750 

Maury 

22,141 

28,153 

McNair  y 

5,697 

Montgomery 

12,219 

14,365 

Obion 

2,099 

Overton 

7,188 

8,246 

Perry 

- 

2,384 

7,038 

v^nr 


35 


248 


APPENDIX- 


Tennessee  continued. 


Counties. 

Pop,  1820. 

Pop.  1830. 

Robertson 

7,270 

13,802 

Rutherford 

19,552 

26,133 

Shelby  - 

354 

5,652 

Smith  - 

17,580 

21,492 

Sumner  - 

19,211 

20,606 

Stewart  - 

8,397 

6,988 

Tipton  - 

5,317 

Warren  - 

10,348 

15,351 

Wayne  - - * 

2,459 

6,013 

Weakley  - - - 

4,796 

White  - 

8,701 

9,967 

Williamson 

20,640 

26,608 

Wilson 

18,730 

25,477 

Total  of  West  Tennessee,  j 

287,501 

I 488,448 

East  Tennessee. 

Anderson 

4,668 

5,312 

Bledsoe 

4,005 

6,448 

Blount 

11,258 

11,027 

Campbell 

4,244 

5,110 

Carter 

4,835 

6,418 

Claiborne 

5,508 

18,470 

Cocke 

4,892 

6,048 

Granger  - * 

7,651 

10,066 

Greene 

11,221 

14,410 

Hamilton 

821 

2,274 

Hawkins 

10,949 

13,683 

Jefferson 

8,953 

11,799 

Knox 

13,034 

14,498 

McMinn 

1,623 

14,497 

Marion  - - 

3,888 

5,516 

Monroe 

2,529 

13,709 

Morgan  * 

1,676 

2,582 

Rhea 

4,215 

8.182 

Roane  ° 

7,895 

11,340 

Sevier 

4,772 

5,117 

Sullivan 

7,015 

10,073 

Washington 

9,557 

10,995 

Total  of  East  Tennessee 

135,312 

196,374 

of  whom  17,890  are  slaves. 

APPENDIX 


247 


XX.  KENTUCKY. 

Table  of  the  counties  and  towns , 1830. 


Counties. 

Pop 

Towns. 

Pop. 

Adair 

8,220 

Columbia 

422 

Allen 

6,486 

Scottsville 

180 

Anderson 

4,542 

Lawrenceburg 

320 

Barren 

14,821 

Glasgow 

617 

Bath 

8,799 

( Owingsville 
| Sharpsburg 

241 

158 

Boone 

9,012 

Burlington 

276 

(Paris 

1,219 

Bourbon 

18,434 

^Millersburg 

470. 

(Middletown 

195 

Bracken 

6,392 

Augusta 

691 

(Hardinsburg 

316 

Brecken  ridge 

7,345 

' Cl  overport 

194 

(Stephenport 

64 

Batler 

3,055 

Morganton 

76 

Bullitt 

5,660 

( Shepherdsville 

278 

( Mount  Washington 

226 

Caldwell 

8,332 

( Princeton 
( Eddyville 

366 

167 

Callaway 

5,159 

Wadesborough 

163 

Campbell 

9,893 

{ Newport 
( Covington 

717 

743 

Casey 

4,342 

Liberty 

118 

Christian 

12,694 

Hopkinsville 

1,263 

Clarke 

13,052 

Winchester 

620 

Clay 

3,549 

Manchester 

159 

Cumberland 

8,636 

Burkesville 

340 

Daviess 

5,218 

Owensborough 

229 

Edmondson 

2,642 

Brownsville 

125 

Estill 

4,618 

Irvine 

91 

Fayette 

25,174 

( Lexington 
(Athens 

6,104 

134 

Fleming 

13,493 

Flemingsburg 

642 

Floyd 

4,266 

Prestonburg 

81 

Franklin 

9,251 

$ Frankfort 
( South  Frankfort 

1,680 

307 

Gallatin 

6,680 

Port  William 

324 

Garrard 

11,870 

Lancaster 

570 

Grant 

2,987 

Williamstown 

197 

Graves 

2,503 

Mayfield 

44 

Grayson 

3,876 

Litchfield 

166 

Greene 

13,718 

$ Green sburg 

665 

(Campbellsville 

126 

Greenup 

5,853 

Greenupsburg 

204 

Hancock 

1,494 

Hawsville 

Hardin 

13,14S 

Elizabethtown 

60J 

248 


APPENDIX. 


Kentucky  continued . 


Counties, 

Pop. 

Towns. 

Pop. 

Harlan 

Harrison 

2,928 

Harlan  C.  H. 
i Cynthiana 

977 

13,180 

^Leesburg 

138 

(Clayville 

48 

Hart 

5,292 

JMunfordsviile 

193 

( Woodsonville 

48 

Henderson 

6,649 

Hendersonville 

483 

Henry 

11,395 

New  Castle 

539 

Hickman 

5,193 

( Clinton 
| Columbus 

81 

186 

Hopkins 

6,763 

Madisonville 

112 

f Louisville 

10,352 

Jefferson 

24,002 

j Shippingsport 
j Portland 

607 

398 

t Williamsville 

70 

Jessamine 

9,961 

t Nicholasville 
l North  Liberty 

409 

62 

Knox 

4,321 

Barboursville 

139 

Laurel 

2,182 

( Hazle  Patch 
j London 

15 

Lawrence 

3,897 

Louisa 

87 

( Clarksburg 

62 

Lewis 

5,206 

Wanceburg 

93 

( Concord 

34 

Lincoln 

11,012 

( Stanford 
£Crab  Orchard 

363 

234 

Livingston 

6,607 

J Salem 
( Smithfield 

254 

388 

Logan 

13,002 

Russellville 

1,358 

McCracken 

1,298 

J Wilmington 
(Padauch 

12 

105 

Madison 

18,035 

Richmond 

947 

Mason 

16,203 

Washington 

(Maysville 

868 

2,040 

Meade 

4,111 

Brandenburg 

331 

f Harrodsburg 

1,051 

Mercer 

17,706 

1 Danville 
j Perryville 

849 

283 

L Salvisa 

78 

Monroe 

5,125 

Tompkinsville 

220 

Montgomery 

10,221 

(Mount  Sterling 
^Jeffersonville 

561 

33 

Morgan 

2,857 

West  Liberty 

50 

APPENDIX. 


249 


Kentucky  continued. 


Counties. 

Pop. 

Towns. 

Pop. 

Muhlenburg 

5,341 

Greenville 

217 

Nelson 

( Bardstown 

1,625 

14,916 

' < Bloomfield 

301 

(Fairfield 

88 

Nicholas 

8,832 

■ Carlisle 

430 

Ohio 

4,913 

: Hartford 

242 

f Westport 

314 

Oldham 

9,563 

! Bedford 
] Brownsville 

104 

57 

L La  Grange 

27 

Owen 

5 792 

t Owenton 

143 

/ New  Liberty 

161 

Pendleton 

3,886 

Falmouth 

207 

Perry 

3,331 

Perry  C.  H. 

Pike 

2,677 

Pikeville 

49 

Pulaski 

9,522 

Somerset 

231 

Rockcastle 

2,875 

Mount  Vernon 

142 

Russell 

3,883 

Uamestown 

67 

/Creelsburg 

37 

Scott 

14,677 

Georgetown 

1,344 

( Shelby  ville 

1,201 

Shelby 

19,039 

<Simpsonville 

77 

( Chris  tianburg 

78 

Simpson 

6,099 

Franklin 

280 

Spencer 

6,815 

Taylorsville 

248 

Todd 

8,801 

( Elkton 
/ Trenton 

382 

178 

Trigg 

5,889 

iCadiz 

/Canton 

168 

146 

Union 

4,435 

10,947 

Morganfield 

292 

Warren 

Bowling  Green 

815 

f Springfield 

618 

| Lebanon 

384 

Washington 

\ Mackville 

83 

| Fredericksburg 

58 

L Newmarket 

43 

Wayne 

8 731 

Monti  cello 

207 

Whitely 

3,807 

( Whitely  C.  LI. 
( Williamsburg 

50 

Woodford 

12,294 

(Versailles 
/ Mortonsville 

904 

145 

Total  1 1 

388,844 [< 

M whom  165,350  are  slaves. 

250 


APPENDIX, 


XXI.  OHIO. 


Table  of  the  Counties  and  County  Towns  1830. 


Counties. 

Pop.  1330. 1 County  Towns. 

Pop. 

Adams 

12,278 

West  Union 

429 

Allen 

5 578 

Wapaghkonetta 

Ashtabula 

14,584 

Jefferson 

270 

Athens 

9,763 

Athens 

729 

Belmont 

28,412 

St,  Clairsville 

789 

Brown 

17,867 

Georgetown  j 

325 

Butler 

27,044 

Hamilton 

1,097 

Champaign 

12,130 

Urbana 

1,102 

Clark 

13,074 

Springfield 

1,080 

Clermont 

20,468 

Batavia 

426 

Clinton 

11,292 

Wilmington 

607 

Columbiana 

35,508 

New  Lisbon 

1,138 

Coschocton 

11,162 

Coshocton 

333 

Crawford 

4,778 

Bu  cyrus 

298 

Cuyahoga 

10,360 

Cleaveland 

1,076 

Dark 

6,203 

Greenville 

160 

Delaware 

11,523 

Delaware 

531 

Fairfield 

24.788 

Lancaster 

1,530 

Fayette 

8,180 

Washington 

300 

Franklin 

14,766 

Columbus 

2,437 

Gallia 

9,733 

Gallipolis 

755 

Geauga 

15,813 

Chardon,  township 

881 

Green 

15,084 

Xenia 

919 

Guernsey 

18,036 

Cambridge 

518 

Hardin 

Hardy 

Hamilton 

52,321 

Cincinnati 

24,831 

Hancock 

813 

Findlay 

52 

Harrison 

29,020 

Cadiz 

820 

Henry 

260 

Damascus 

Highland 

16,347 

Hillsborough 

564 

Hocking 

4,008 

Logan 

97 

Holmes 

9,133 

Millersburg 

319 

Huron 

13,345 

Norwalk 

310 

Jackson 

5,974 

Jackson 

329 

Jefferson 

32,489 

Steubenville 

2,937 

Knox 

17,124 

Mount  Vernon 

1,021 

Lawrence 

5,366 

Burlington 

149 

Licking 

20,864 

Newark 

999 

Lorain 

5,696 

Elyria 

668 

Logan 

6,442 

Belle  Fontaine 

266 

Madison 

6,190 

London 

249 

Marion 

6,558 

Marion 

287 

Medina 

7,560 

Medina,  township 

622 

Meigs 

6,159 

Chester 

164 

Mercer 

1,110 

St.  Mary’s 

92 

Miami 

12,806 

Troy 

504 

APPENDIX, 


251 


Ohio  continued . 


Counties. 

Pop.  1830. 

County  Towns. 

Pop. 

Monroe 

8,770 

Woodsfield 

~157 

Montgomery 

24,252 

Dayton 

2?985 

Morgan 

11,796 

McConnelsville 

267 

Muskingum 

29,325 

Zanesville 

3,094 

Paulding 

160 

Perry 

14,018 

Somerset 

576 

Pickaway 

15,935 

Circleville 

1,138 

Pike 

6,024 

Piketon 

271 

Portage 

18,827 

Ravenna,  township 

806 

Preble 

16,255 

Eaton 

511 

Putnam 

230 

Sugar  Grove 

Richland 

24,007 

Mansfield 

840 

Ross 

24,052 

Chillicothe 

2,846 

Sandusky 

2,851 

Lower  Sandusky 

351 

Scioto 

8,730 

Portsmouth 

1,064 

Seneca 

5,148 

Tiffin 

248 

Shelby 

3,671 

Sydney 

240 

Stark 

26,784 

Canton 

1,257 

Trumbull 

26,154 

Warren 

510 

Tuscarawas 

14,298 

New  Philadelphia 

• 410 

Union 

3,192 

Maysville 

142 

Van  Wert 

49 

Willshire 

Warren 

21,493 

Lebanon 

1,157 

Washington 

11,731 

Marietta 

1,207 

Wayne 

23,344 

Wooster 

977 

Williams 

377 

Defiance 

52 

Wood 

1,085 

Perrysburg 

182 

Total 

937,679 

XXII.  INDIANA  ! 

Table  of  the  Counties  1830. 

Counties,  i Population. 

Counties.  Population. 

Allen 

1,000 

Elkhart 

935 

Bartholomew 

5,480 

Fayette 

9,112 

Boone 

622 

Floyd 

6,363 

Carroll 

1,614 

Fountain 

7,644 

Cass 

1,154 

Franklin 

10,199 

Clark 

10,719 

Gibson 

5,417 

Clay 

1,616 

Greene 

4,253 

Clinton 

1,423 

Hamilton 

1,750 

Crawford 

3,184 

Hancock 

1,569 

Daviess 

4,512 

Harrison 

10,288 

Dearborn 

14,473 

Hendricks 

3,967 

Decatur 

5,854 

Henry 

6,498 

Delaware 

2,372 

Jackson 

4,894 

Dubois 

1,774 

Jefferson 

11,465 

252 


APPENDIX. 


Indiana  continued. 


Counties. 

Population. 

Counties. 

Population. 

Jennings 

3,950 

Rush 

9,918 

Johnson 

4,139 

St.  Joseph 

287 

Knox 

6,557 

Scott 

3,097 

Lawrence 

9,237 

Shelby 

6,294 

Madison 

2,442 

Spencer 

3,187 

Marion 

7,181 

Sullivan 

4,696 

Martin 

2,010 

Switzerland 

7,111 

Monroe 

6,578 

Tippecanoe 

7,167 

Montgomery 

7,386 

Union 

7,957 

Morgan 

5,579 

Vanderburgh 

2,610 

Orange 

7,909 

Vermillion 

5,706 

Owen 

4,060 

Vigo 

5,737 

Parke 

7,534 

Wabash 

Perry 

3,378 

Warren 

2,854 

Pike 

2,464 

Warrick 

2,973 

Posey 

6,883 

Washington 

13,072 

Putnam 

81,95 

Wayne 

18,587 

Randolph 

3,912 

Total  341,582 

Ripley 

3,957 

Population  of  the  principal  towns  in  1831 

New  Albany, 

about  2,500 

Richmond,  about  1,500 

Madison 

“ 2,000 

Indianapolis 

“ 1,200 

Vincennes 

“ 1,800 

Salem 

1,000 

XXIII.  ILLINOIS. 

Table  of  the 

Counties  1830. 

Adams 

2,186 

Jefferson 

2,555 

Alexander 

1,390 

Jo-Daviess 

2,111 

Bond 

3,124 

Johnson 

1,596 

Calhoun 

1,0,90 

Lawrence 

3,661 

Clarke 

3,940 

Macaupin 

1,989 

Clay 

755 

McLean 

Clinton 

2,330 

Macon 

1,122 

Crawford 

3,113 

Madison 

6,229 

Edgar 

4,071 

Marion 

2,021 

Edwards 

1,649 

Mercer 

26 

Fayette 

2,704 

Monroe 

2,119 

Franklin 

4,031 

Montgomery 

2,950 

Fulton ) 

Morgan 

12,709 

Henry  > 

2,156 

Macdonough  ) 

1,309 

Knox  ) 

Schuyler  $ 

Gallatin 

7.407 

Peoria  ) 

Green 

7^664 

Putnamj 

X jOVJV 

Hamilton 

2,620 

Perry 

1,215 

Plancock 

484 

Pike 

2,393 

Jackson 

1,827 

Pope 

3,223 

APPENDIX. 


253 


Illinois  continued. 


Counties 

Population  1830. 

1 Counties. 

Population  1830. 

Randolph 

4,436 

Wabash 

2,709 

St.  Clair 

7,092 

Warren 

307 

Sangamon 

12,960 

W ashington 

1.674 

Shelby 

2,973 

Wayne 

2,562 

Tazewell 

4,716 

White 

6,091 

Union 

3,239 

Total  157,575 

Vermillion 

5,836 

of  whom  746  are  slaves. 

XXIV.  MISSOURI. 
Table  of  the  Counties. 

Boone 

8,889 

Montgomery 

3,900 

Callaway 

6,102 

New  Madrid 

2,351 

Cape  Girardeau 

7,430 

Perry 

3,377 

Chariton 

1,776 

Pike 

6,122 

Clay 

5,342 

Ralls 

4,346 

Cole 

3,006 

Randolph 

2,962 

Cooper 

6,019 

Ray 

2,657 

Crawford 

1,709 

St.  Charles 

4,322 

Franklin 

3,848 

St.  Francois 

2,386 

Gasconade 

1,548 

St.  Genevieve 

2,182 

Howard 

10,844 

St.  Louis 

14,907 

Jackson 

2,822 

Saline 

2,893 

Jefferson 

2,586 

Scott 

2,136 

Lafayette 

2,921 

Washington 

6,797 

Lincoln 

Madison 

Marion 

4,060 

2,371 

4,839 

Wayne 

3,254 

Total  140,074 

Monroe 

4 

Of  whom  24,990  are  slaves. 

Population  of  St.  Louis . 

In  1820 

4,598 

In  1830  5,852 

XXV. 

DISTRICT  OF  COLUMBIA. 

Counties. 

Population 

Chief  Towns. 

Population. 

Alexandria 

9,608 

Alexandria 

1810.  1820. 

1830. 

Washington 

30,250 

Washington 

Washington  8,208  13,247 

18,827 

Alexandria 

7,227  8,218 

8,263 

Total 

39,S58 

Georgetown  4,948  7,360 

8441 

XXVI.  FLORIDA  TERRITORY. 

Table  of  the  Counties. 

1 

' Escambia 

3,386 

r Alachu 

2,204 

West  j 

Jackson 

) 

East 

Florida.  ’ 

Duvall 

1,970 

Florida.  1 

Walton 

) 6,092 

Mosquito 

733 

! 

L Washing!* 

Dll  ) 

| Nassau 

1,511 

' Gadsen 

4.894 

l St.  Johns 

2,535 

Middle  . 

Hamilton 

Jefferson 

553 

3,312 

S.  Florida. 

Monroe 

517 

Florida 

Leon 

6,493 

Total 

34,723 

^Madison 

525 

Of  whom  15,510  are  slaves. 
= 

254 


APPENDIX, 


XXYH.  MICHIGAN  TERRITORY. 


Table  of  the  Counties , 1830. 


Counties. 

Population.  [Counties. 

Population. 

Berrien 

323 

Oakland 

4,910 

Cass 

928 

St.  Clair 

1,115 

Jackson 

St.  Joseph 

1,313 

Lenawee 

1,491 

Van  Buren 

5 

Macomb 

2,414 

Washtenaw 

4,042 

Michilimackinac 

877 

Wayne 

4,565 

Monroe 

3,1S7 

Detroit,  city 

2,222 

Counties  west  of  Lake  Michigan . 

Brown 

964 

Iowa 

1,589 

Chippewa 

625 

Crawford 

692 

Total 

31,260 

Of  whom  27  are  slaves. 


XXVIII.  ARKANSAS  TERRITORY. 


Table  of  the  Counties . 


Arkansas 

1,423 

Lawrence 

2,806 

Chicot 

1,165 

Miller 

358 

Clark 

1,369 

Monroe 

461 

Conway 

982 

Phillips 

1,152 

Crawford 

2,440 

Pope 

1,483 

Crittenden 

1,272 

Pulaski 

2,395 

Hempstead 

2,507 

St.  Francis 

1,505 

Hot,  or  Warm  Springs 

458 

Sevier 

636 

Independence 

2,032 

Union 

640 

Izard 

1,266 

Washington 

2,181 

Jackson 

333 

Jefferson 

772 

Total 

30,383 

Lafayette 

748 

Of  whom  4,578  are  slaves. 

MISCEIJLANEOIIS  STATISTICAL  TABLE 


Executive  of  the  General  Government . President  and  Vice-President 
of  the  United  States.  Salary  of  the  former,  $25,000  per  annum  ; of  the 
latter  $5,000.  The  president  must  be  35  years  of  age,  14  years  a 
resident  in  the  U.  S.  and  a natural  born  citizen,  or  a citizen  at  the  time 
of  the  adoption  of  the  constitution.  The  vice-president  is  elected  at 
the  same  time  and  manner,  and  for  the  same  term,  as  the  president.  He 
is  ex-officio  president  of  the  senate ; and  in  case  of  the  death  of  the  pres- 
ident, takes  his  place,  until  the  next  term.  At  the  last  election  there 
were  261  electors.  There  have  been  7 different  presidents,  and  as 
many  vice  presidents. 

The  legislature  of  the  general  government  consists  of  a Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives.  The  present  number  of  senators  i^  48. 
The  pay  both  for  senators  and  representatives,  is  8 dollars  a day,-  and  8 
dollars  for  every  20  miles  travel,  going  and  returning.  The  present 
number  of  representatives  is  213.  The  present  census,  on  the  existing 
ratio,  will  increase  the  number  to  more  than  250. 

The  Judiciary  of  the  U.  S.  consists  in  one  supreme  court,  and  such 
subordinate  courts  as  congress  shall  from  time  to  time  appoint.  The 
judges  of  the  supreme  and  inferior  court,  hold  their  offices  during  good 
behaviour.  The  present  supreme  court  consists  of  one  chief  justice, 
and  six  associate  justices.  Salary  of  the  chief  justice,  $5,000  and  of 
the  others  $4,500  each.  Attorney  General,  salary  $3,500.  The  district 
court  consists  of  30  judges,  distributed  in  the  several  states,  each  having 
an  attorney,  marshal  and  clerk,  as  constituent  officers  of  the  court.  The 
government  having  very  extended  relations,  and  acting  over  a vast  surface, 
has  a numerous  corps  of  officers  of  departments ; marshals,  clerks,  and 
the  like.  The  officers  of  the  army,  now  in  commission,  are  560  j of 
the  navy  about  1000,  and  of  the  marine  corps  50,-  22  ships  of  war  are 
in  commission,  and  16  in  ordinary.  Five  ships  of  the  line  and  six 
frigates  are  now  building.  The  militia  of  the  United  States  amounts  to 
4,200,000.  Extent  of  the  U.  S.  2,257,  374  square  miles.  Of  canals 
there  are  about  3,000  miles  in  operation,  in  progress,  or  survey.  Of 
raifroad,  the  extent  made  or  making,  is  1,403  miles.  Number  of  post 
offices  in  1831,  8,610.  Extent  of  post  roads  in  1830, 115,176  miles. 
We  have  60  literary  institutions,  chartered  as  colleges,  the  names  of 
which  are  given  under  their  proper  heads,  in  the  body  of  this  work. 
The  number  of  academies  and  high  schools  amount  to  between  six  and 
seven  hundred.  The  pupils  in  all  the  schools  in  the  U.  S.  amount  to 


256 


APPENDIX. 


about  1,200,000.  Of  periodicals  there  are  circulated  about  1,550.  Of 
religious  societies  there  are  about  14,000  fixed  congregations,  and 
10,000  settled  ministers.  Advancing  in  the  same  ratio  of  population, 
as  between  the  census  of  1820,  and  1830  the  U.  S.  will  contain  35  mil- 
lions of  people,  of  which  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  will  contain  more 
than  half.  The  tides  along  the  coast  of  the  U.  S.  diminish,  as  we  advance 
from  Maine  shore  towards  Florida.  On  the  Bay  of  Fundy  they  rise  40 
feet.  In  the  centre  of  the  interior  curve  of  Cape  Cod,  they  rise  18 
feet,  and  on  the  opposite  convex  land  of  the  cape,  about  9 feet.  They 
thence  diminish  along  the  open  shore  from  9 to  8 and  7 feet,  until  we 
pass  Cape  Florida  into  the  gulf  of  Mexico,  where  the  tide  on  the  open 
shore  is  not  more,  on  an  average,  than 4 feet.  The  annual  mean  temper- 
ature of  Maine  is  about  43°  Faht.  of  the  centre  of  Pennsylvania  55°; 
Cincinnati  54°;  St.  Louis  on  the  Mississippi  55°;  New-York  harbor  52° 
Newport,  Rhode  Island  51°;  Baltimore  53° ; Richmond  Virginia  56°  • 
Washington  D.  C.  56°;  Charleston  harbor  60°;  St.  Augustine  72°; 
Pensacola  68°;  New  Orleans  79°;  Fort  Howard,  southern  extremity 
of  Green  Bay  44°:  Prairie  du  Chien  45°;  Council  Bluffs  on  the  Mis- 
souri 50°.  Lake  Erie  is  565  feet  above  the  level  of  the  Atlantic;  Pitts- 
burgh SCO;  Cincinnati  350;  Louisville  343;  mouth  of  the  Ohio  321. 
Highest  spring  source  of  the  Alleghanies  2,509.  Foot  of  the  the  Rocky 
Mountains,  at  the  sources  of  the  Yellow  Stone  1 ,870.  Middle  course  of 
the  Illinois  401 ; Ouisconsin  River  1,161 ; Prairie  du  Chien  580;  Lake 
Superior  641. 

The  prevalent  winds  in  the  northern  states  of  the  Atlantic  slope  are 
W.  and  NP  W.  In  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi  S.  W,  Thunder  storms  in 
the  U.  S.  generally  form  in  the  W.  and  N.  W.  and  pass  off  to  the  E. 
This  general  rule  has  many  exceptions.  They  often  descend  the  Ohio, 
passing  over  Cincinnati  and  Louisville  from  the  E.  to  the  W.  They  very 
commonly  ascend  the  valley  of  Red  River  from  S.  E.  to  N.  W.  It  is  a 
singular  fact,  that  along  the  whole  Atlantic  sea  shore,  those  disagreeable 
and  fierce  storms,  callepN.  E.  storms,  commence  in  the  S.  W.  and  travel 
with  a rotatory  motion,  horizontal  to  the  horizon,  in  other  words  as  whirl- 
winds, from  the  S.  W.  to  N.  E.  at  the  rate  of  about  30  miles  an  hour. 
Violent  blows,  called  hurricanes,  sweeping  forests  and  buildings  from 
their  course,  seldom  many  miles  in  length,  and  often  less  than  a half  a 
mile  in  width,  are  common,  especially  in  summer,  in  all  parts  of  the  U. 
S.  They  are  most  frequent  in  the  Mississippi  valley.  Their  distinctive 
ravages  are  seen  in  a thousand  places.  The  prostrate  forest  in  their  path 
is  technically  called  a hurricane  tract.  These  gales  also  move  in  a rota- 
tory progress,  sometimes  ascending  wholly  above  the  forests,  and  then 
descending  again  with  the  same  unsparing  fury. 

The  U.  S.  have  all  the  temperatures,  that  can  be  requisite  for  any  class 
of  invalids,  between  the 'sea  breezes  of  Maine,  the  mountain  breezes  of 
New  Hampshire,  the  climate  of  the  Council  Bluffs,  Charleston,  St.  Au- 
gustine, New  Orleans,  or  the  portion  of  Cape  Florida  South  of  28°,  and 
beyond  the  reach  of  either  snow  or  frost. 

The  U.  S.  possess  every  species  of  useful  building  stone  and  marble 
in  unlimited  abundance — all  the  valuable  fossils — particularly  the  great- 
est profusion  of  fossil  coal.  It  has  the  most  ample  amount  of  all  the 
important  metals,  except  platina,  tin  and  mercury.  These  metals  have 
no  where  been  discovered  in  such  abundance,  as  to  have  become  of  any 


APPENDIX. 


257 


utility.  Cleveland  and  Silliman,  I know  not  on  what  authority,  have 
assigned  the  greatest  abundance  of  the  ores  of  Mercury  to  the  northern 
shores  of  the  lakes.  We  do  not  recollect  to  have  seen  the  fact  mentioned 
by  Schoolcraft,  Long  or  other  mineralogists,  worthy  of  credit.  We  hold 
this  important  fact,  if  it  be  one,  in  entire  doubt.  Future  observation 
will,  no  doubt,  bring  to  light  these  metals  in  the  widest  extent  of  our  terri- 
tory. 

The  number  of  signers  of  American  Independence  was  58,  of  whom 
Pennsylvania  furnished  9,  the  greatest  number  from  any  one  state.  Vir- 
ginia furnished  7,  and  Massachusetts  5.  The  continental  army,  in  1783, 
consisted  of  a commander  in  chief,  15  major  generals,  and  21  brigadier 
generals.  The  number  of  continental  troops  furnished  by  the  different 
states,  during  the  revolutionary  war,  was  231,931.  The  militia  called 
out  amounted  to  56,163.  Of  the  continental  troops,  Massachusetts  furnish- 
ed 67,907,  that  is  to  say,  more  than  double  the  number  of  any  other  state 
in  the  Union.  There  were  15  different  presidents  of  congress,  during 
the  revolutionary  war. 

The  free  inhabitants  of  the  free  states  amount  to  6,913,815 ; leaving 
to  the  slave  states  5,942,792 

Synopsis  of  the  political  statistics  of  the  states  in  their  order.  Maine 
settled  1620,1652  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts.  Purchased 
by  that  colony,  1677.  Remained  under  the  jurisdiction  of  Massachusetts, 
by  the  name  of  the  District  of  Maine,  until  1820,  when  it  became  an 
independent  state.  Constitution  went  into  operation  in  1820.  The 
legislative  body  is  entitled  the  Legislature  of  Maine.  It  is  vested  in  a sen- 
ate and  house  of  representatives,  elected  annually  by  the  people  on  the 
second  Monday  of  September.  The  number  of  Representatives  cannot 
be  less  than  100,  nor  more  that  200.  A town  with  1500  inhabitants 
sends  one  representative.  No  town  can  send  more  than  7.  Number  of 
Senators  cannot  be  less  than  31,  nor  more  than  70.  The  legislature 
meets  at  Augusta.  Governor  elected  annually  by  the  people.  A council  of 
7 is  elected  annually  by  the  joint  ballot  of  the  Senate  and  Representatives. 
The  right  of  suffrage  is  granted  to  all  persons  over  21,  but  paupers, 
persons  under  guardianship,  and  persons  not  taxed.  A residence  of  3 
months  preceding  the  election  gives  the  right  of  suffrage.  The  judicial 
power  is  vested  in  a Supreme  Judicial  court,  and  courts,  that  may  be 
established  by  the  legislature  from  time  to  time.  The  salary  of  the  Gov- 
ernor $1,500-  per  annum.  The  members  of  the  Senate  and  house  of 
Representatives  $2  per  day.  Banks  19.  Whole  capital  $2,175,000, 
exclusive  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  Sends  7 Representatives  to  Congress,  and 
will  be  entitled  to  2 or  3 additional  members,  by  the  ratio  of  the  present 
census.  Post  offices  397,  This  is  the  12th  state  in  the  union,  in  point 
of  members. 

New  Hampshire.  First  settled  1623.  Belonged  alternately  to  the 
Royal  government  to  Massachusetts  and  New-York.  Constitution  estab- 
lished 1784.  The  legislative  power,  called  the  General  court  of  New 
Hampshire,  is  in  a Senate  and  House  of  Representatives-  150  voters  send 
a representative  and  300  additional  voters  a second.  The  members  and 
the  officers  of  the  executive  power  are  chosen  annually  by  the  people, 
The  General  court  meets  at  Concord.  Right  of  suffrage  belongs  to  all 


258 


APPENDIX. 


male  inhabitants  of  21  years,  but  paupers  and  persons  not  taxed  at  their 
own  request.  A Superior  Court  and  Court  of  Common  Pleas  compose 
the  judiciary.  The  judges  hold  their  places,  during  good  behavior,  till 
the  age  of  70. 

Salary  of  governor  $1,200  per  annum.  Banks  21.  Capital  $2,102, 
756,  exclusive  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  Sends  6 Representatives  to  Congress. 
255  post  offices.  This  is  the  17th  state  in  the  union,  in  point  of 
members. 

Vermont.  First  settlements  in  1724;  1749.  Claimed  by  New  Hamp- 
shire and  New-York.  Constitution  formed  1777,  entered  the  union  1791. 
The  general  assembly  of  the  state  of  Vermont  is  the  legislative  power, 
composed  of  a single  body,  a House  of  Representatives,  elected  annually. 
One  member  is  sent  from  every  town.  Montpelier  is  the  place  of  meeting 
The  officers  of  the  executive  power  are  chosen  annually.  Every  man  of 
21  years,  having  resided  one  year  preceding  the  election  in  the  state, 
who  is  quiet  and  peaceable,  has  the  right  of  suffrage.  A supreme  and 
county  courts  constitute  the  judiciary;  all  the  officers  being  elected 
annually  by  the  general  assembly.  A council  of  censors,  composed  of 
13,  is  chosen  every  7 years,  to  see  if  the  laws  are  duly  executed.  Sala- 
ry governor  $1000  per  anum.  Banks  10.  Capital  $1,050,000,  exclu- 
sive of  the  U.  S.  Bank.  Sends  5 Representatives  to  Congress.  253 
Post  offices.  This  is  the  18th  slate  in  the  union,  in  point  of  members. 

Massachusetts.  First  settlements  1620,  1628.  The  two  settle- 
ments remained  under  separate  governments,  until  1685 — 6 when  they 
were  united  under  the  royal  government.  The  constitution  was  formed 
1780.  The  legislative  power  is  styled  The  General  court  of  Massachu- 
setts, and  composed  of  a Senate  and  House  of  Representatives,  elected 
annually,  one  for  150  voters,  and  another  for  an  additional  225.  Senate 
is  composed  of  40  members.  The  governor  is  elected  annually.  The 
General  Court  meets  at  Boston.  Residence  of  one  year  in  the  common- 
wealth, and  six  calendar  months  in  the  district,  and  paying  a state  or 
county  tax  within  the  two  years  preceding  the  election,  constitutes  a 
person  21  years  of  age  a voter.  The  judiciary  is  a Supreme  court  and 
court  of  Common  Pleas.  Salary  governor  $3,666  67  per  annum. 
Banks  66.  Capital  $20,420,000,  exclusive  of  the  United  States  Bank. 
Sends  13  Representatives  to  Congress.  Post  Offices  425.  This  is  the 
ninth  state  in  the  Union  in  point  of  numbers. 

Rhode  Island.  First  settlements,  1636,  1638.  Chartered  1644. 
Rechartered  1666,  by  Charles  II.,  which  charter  is  the  basis  of  its  pres- 
ent government.  Unlike  all  the  other  states,  it  has  no  written  constitution. 
The  legislative  power  is  a General  Assembly,  composed  of  Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives,  which  consists  of  72  members,  elected  from 
the  towns  semi-annually ; and  the  Senate  of  10.  The  latter  are  chosen 
annually.  The  Governor  is  elected  annually.  The  General  Assembly 
meets  four  times  in  a year  at  different  towns.  Judges  are  appointed  an- 
nually by  the  General  Assembly.  Judges  of  the  Courts  of  Common 
Pleas  have  no  salaries,  but  are  paid  by  entries.  Salary  Governor  $400. 
Banks  47.  Capital  $6,098,307,  exclusive  of  the  United  States  Bank. 
Sends  two  Representatives  to  Congress.  Post  Offices  41.  This  is  the 
twenty-third  state  in  the  Union  in  point  of  numbers. 


APPENDIX. 


259 


Connecticut.  First  settlements  1635,  1638.  Chartered  1665.  The 
charter  was  suspended,  and  restored,  and  formed  the  basis  of  the  govern- 
ment till  1818,  when  a constitution  was  formed.  A Senate  and  House  of 
Representatives  form  the  General  Assembly.  The  members  of  the  latter 
are  chosen  by  the  different  towns,  and  are  208  in  number.  The  Sena- 
tors must  not  fall  below  18,  nor  exceed  24.  All  the  officers  of  govern- 
ment are  elected  annually.  The  General  Assembly  meets  once  a year, 
alternately  at  Hartford  and  New  Haven.  A residence  of  six  months, 
the  holding  a freehold  estate  valued  yearly  at  $7,  or  having  performed 
military  duty  for  one  year,  paying  taxes  for  one  year,  and  a good  moral 
character,  qualify  a voter.  A supreme  court  of  errors,  a superior  court, 
and  such  inferior  courts  as  may  be  created  from  time  to  time,  compose 
the  judiciary.  The  Judges  are  appointed  by  the  General  Assembly,  and 
hold  their  offices  during  good  behaviour,  till  the  age  of  70.  No  one  is 
compelled  to  join  in,  or  support  religious  worship;  but  when  united  to 
any  society,  maybe  obliged  to  pay  his  portion  of  its  expenses.  Salary 
Governor  $1,100.  Banks  13.  Capital,  exclusive  of  the  United  States 
Bank,  $4,033,000.  Sends  6 Representatives  to  Congress.  222  Post 
Offices.  This  is  the  sixteenth  state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

New  York.  First  settlement  1614.  Colonial  government  1629. 
Passed  from  the  Dutch  to  the  English,  1664.  1673  returned  to  the  Dutch 

for  a few  months,  and  then  to  the  English.  Constitution  formed,  1777. 
A Senate  of  32  members,  and  an  Assembly  of  128  elected  annually  from 
the  legislature.  Senators  elected  by  districts,  and  Representatives  by 
counties,  in  proportion  to  the  population.  The  executive  offices  are 
chosen  every  two  years.  The  legislature  meets  at  Albany.  The  right 
of  suffrage  belongs  to  every  white  male  citizen  of  the  age  of  21,  who  has 
resided  one  year  in  the  state,  and  six  months  in  his  own  county.  A man 
of  color  cannot  vote  unless  he  possess  an  unincumbered  freehold  estate, 
valued  at  $250.  The  Judges  are  appointed  by  the  Governor,  with  the 
consent  of  the  Senate.  The  Chancellor  and  Justices  of  the  Supreme  and 
Circuit  Courts  hold  their  offices  during  good  behaviour,  or  until  the  age 
of  60.  The  Judges  of  the  County  Courts  are  appointed  for  five  years. 
Salary  Governor  $4,000.  Banks  44.  Capital  $24,969,600,  exclusive 
of  the  United  States  Bank.  Some  other  Banks  are  either  in  contempla- 
tion, or  operation.  Sends  34  Representatives  to  Congress.  Post  Offices 
1,462.  This  is  the  first  state  in  the  Union  in  point  of  numbers. 

New  Jersey  contained  a few  families,  1665.  In  1676  divided  into 
two  provinces,  one  under  royal  government,  and  the  other  dependent  on 
New  York.  East  Jersey  was  transferred  to  William  Penn  and  eleven 
associates,  1632.  In  1702  both  provinces  united  under  the  government 
of  New  York,  till  1738,  when  a separate  government  was  instituted. 
William  Temple  Franklin,  a son  of  Dr.  Franklin,  was  the  last  royal  gov- 
ernor. Constitution  formed  1776.  The  Governor,  Legislative  Council 
and  General  Assembly  compose  the  Legislature.  The  Legislative  Coun- 
cil and  General  Assembly  are  elected  annually.  The  former  is  composed 
of  14,  and  the  latter  of  50.  The  Legislature  meets  at  Trenton  annually. 
The  Governor  is  chosen  by  the  Council  and  Assembly  at  their  first  meet- 
ing after  the  election.  The  Governor  is  President  of  the  Council,  which 
elects  a Vice  President  from  itself  The  Governor  and  Council  form  a court 


260 


APPENDIX. 


of  Appeals,  as  the  last  resort  in  all  law  causes,  and  possess  the  power  of 
pardoning  criminals,  after  condemnation.  All  persons  of  full  age,  worth 
£25  proclamation  money,  having  resided  one  year  in  the  county  where 
they  vote,  have  the  right  of  suffrage.  By  succeeding  acts,  it  is  deter- 
mined, that  paying  a tax  is  equivalent  to  the  former  requisition,  and  that 
females  and  negroes  are  prohibited  from  voting.  The  Judges  of  the 
Superior  and  Inferior  Courts  are  appointed  by  the  Legislature,  the  former 
for  7 years,  and  the  latter  for  5.  Both  may  be  re-appointed.  Salary 
Governor,  $2,000.  Banks  18.  Capital  $5,075,000.  Sends  6 Repre- 
sentatives to  Congress.  Post  Offices  242.  This  is  the  fourteenth  state 
in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

Pennsylvania.  First  settlement,  1682.  Governed  by  deputies  of  the 
proprietors,  till  1776,  when  the  Constitution  was  formed.  A Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives  form  the  General  Assembly.  The  Represen- 
tatives are  elected  annually,  being  proportionate  in  number  to  that  of  the 
taxable  inhabitants.  The  Senate  consists  of  33  members,  and  the  House 
of  Representatives  100.  The  Senators  are  chosen  for  four  years,  one 
and  one-fourth  being  elected  at  the  same  time  with  the  Representatives. 
The  Governor  is  elected  for  3 years,  and  may  hold  his  office  9 out  of  12. 
The  Assembly  meets  at  Harrisburgh.  The  Judiciary  is  a Supreme 
Court,  Courts  of  Oyer  and  Terminer,  and  goal-delivery  Courts  of  Com- 
mon Pleas,  an  Orphan’s  Court,  a Court  of  Quarter  Sessions,  &c. 
The  Judges  are  appointed  by  the  Governor,  and  hold  their  offices  during 
good  behaviour.  The  right  of  suffrage  belongs  to  every  freeman  of  the 
age  of  21,  who  has  resided  two  years  in  the  state,  and  paid  a tax  six 
months  before  the  election.  Governor’s  salary  $4,000.  Banks  31. 
Capital  $10,310,333  84.  Sends  26  Representatives  to  Congress.  961 
Post  Offices.  This  is  the  second  state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers-. 

Delaware.  First  settlement  1627.  From  the  Swedes  and  Fins,  it 
passed  into  the  hands  of  the  Dutch,  and  then  into  those  of  the  English, 
with  New  York.  1682  was  granted  to  Wm.  Penn,  and  included  in  the  gov- 
ernment of  Pennsylvania.  1701  Delaware  withdrew  from  Pennsylva- 
nia, and  a constitution  was  formed  1776.  The  General  Assembly  con- 
sists of  a Senate  and  House  of  Representatives.  The  members  of  the 
latter  are  elected  annually,  7 from  each  county,  amounting  in  all  to  21. 
The  Governor  is  chosen  every  3 years,  and  he  is  ineligible  for  the  three 
years  which  succeed.  Three  of  the  Senators  are  elected  annually.  The 
General  Assembly  meets  at  Dover.  A residence  of  2 years  previous  to 
the  election,  and  paying  a state  or  county  tax  constitutes  all  white  free- 
men aged  21  voters.  The  judiciary  is  composed  of  a Court  of  Chancery 
a Supreme  Court,  court  of  Common  Pleas,  &.c.  The  officers  hold  their 
places  during  good  behaviour.  Salary  Governor  $1,333,33.  Sends  one 
Representative  to  Congress.  Banks  4.  Capital  $1,050,000.  36  Post 
offices.  This  is  the  24th  state  in  the  union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

Maryland.  First  settlement  1634.  1776  constitution  formed.  The 
legislature  is  styled  the  General  Assembly  of  Maryland,  and  is  composed 
of  a senate  of  15  members  and  a House  of  Delegates  of  80.  Each  county 
furnishes  4 of  the  latter.  They  are  elected  annually,  and  the  Senate 
every  fifth  year,  9 from  the  Western,  and  6 from  the  Eastern  shore.  The 


APPENDIX* 


261 


Governor  is  elected  annually,  and  is  eligible  3 years  out  of  7.  The  Gen- 
eral Assembly  meets  at  Annapolis.  A council  of  5 form  the  executive 
with  the  Governor.  Every  white  freeman  above  the  age  of  21,  having 
resided  12  months  in  the  state,  or  6 in  the  county,  is  qualified  to  vote. 
The  chancellor  and  judges  are  nominated  by  the  Governor  and  appointed 
by  the  council,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behaviour.  Salary"  of 
Governor  $2,686.  Banks  14.  Capital  $9,450,000.  Sends  9 Repre- 
sentatives to  Congress.  Post  offices  221.  This  is  the  eleventh  state  in 
the  union  in  point  of  numbers. 

Virginia.  First  settlement  1607.  Constitution  1776.-  It  was 
amended  in  1829,  and  as  it  now  stands.  The  General  Assembly  is  com- 
posed of  a Senate  and  House  of  Delegates.  The  number  of  members  in 
the  latter  is  134  chosen  annually.  The  Senate  has  32  members  elected 
every  four  years,  one  and  a fourth  vacating  their  seats  every  year.  Voters 
for  all  places  of  trust  honor  or  profit  are  given  viva  voce.  The  execu- 
tive is  in  the  hands  of  the  Governor  who  is  chosen  for  3 years,  and  in- 
eligible for  the  next  term.  There  is  a council  of  state  of  3.  The  judges 
of  the  Supreme  Court  of  Appeals  and  the  Superior  courts  are  appointed 
by  the  General  Assembly,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behaviour, 
or  till  they  are  removed  by  a concurrent  vote  of  the  Assembly.  Owning 
a freehold  of  the  value  of  25  dollars,  or  an  interest  in  one  to  that  amount, 
or  possessions  equivalent  to  this,  or  having  been  a housekeeper  and  head 
of  a family  for  12  months,  and  paid  taxes,  constitutes  a free  white  man 
of  21  a voter.  Salary  of  Governor  $3,333  33  cents.  There  are  three 
banks  with  branches  amounting  in  all  to  16,  and  1 in  Wheeling.  Whole 
Capital  $5,607,000,  exclusive  of  the  U.  S.  Bank.'  Sends  22  Repre- 
sentatives to  Congress.  Post  offices  778.  This  is  the  third  state  in  the 
union  in  point  of  numbers. 

North  Carolina.  First  settlement  about  the  middle  of  the  17th  cen- 
tury. 1727  became  a distinct  province.  Constitution  formed  1776.  A 
Senate  and  House  of  Commons  constitute  the  General  Assembjy,  both 
chosen  annually  by  the  people.  Each  county  furnishes  1 senator  and  2 
members  of  the  House  of  Commons  and  one  of  the  latter  from  each  of  6 
large  towns.  The  Governor  is  the  chief  executive  officer,  is  elected  an- 
nually by  the  2 houses,,  and  eligible  for  one  term  of  3 years  out  of  six. 
The  judges  of  the  Supreme  and  Superior  courts  are  appointed  by  the 
assembly,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior.  All  freemen  aged 
21,  who  have  resided  in  the  state  12  months  immediately  preceding  the 
election,  are  entitled  to  vote  for  members  of  the  House  of  Commons;  but 
to  vote  for  a senator,  the  possession  of  a freehold  of  fifty  acres  of  land  is 
required.  Assembly  meets  annually  at  Raleigh.  Salary  of  Governor 
$2,000.  Banks  3 with  their  branches.  Capital  exclusive  of  theU.  S. 
bank  $3,200,000.  Sends  13  Representatives  to  Congress.  Post  offices 
470.  This  is  the  fifth  state  in  the  union  in  point  of  numbers. 

South  Carolina.  First  Settlement  about  1663.  Constitution  formed 
1775.  The  legislative  power  is  in  a Senate  and  House  of  Representa- 
tives. 45  members  compose  the  senate.  They  are  elected  by  districts 
for  4 years.  Half  are  chosen  biennially.  The  Representatives  are  124 
Vol,  II  ‘ 37 


262 


APPENDIX. 


in  number,  and  apportioned  according  to  the  white  inhabitants,  and  taxa- 
tion.  Elected  for  2 years.  A governor  holds  the  executive  power  for  the 
term  of  2 years,  and  is  then  ineligible  for  4.  The  assembly  meets 
annually  at  Columbia.  The  chancellor  and  judges  are  appointed  by  the 
Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  and  hold  their  offices,  during  good 
behavior.  Every  free  white  male  of  the  age  of  21,  who  has  resided  in  the 
state  twTo  years,  previous  to  the  election,  and  possessing  a freehold  of  50 
acres,  or  town  lot,  or  resided  in  the  district,  in  which  he  offers  his  vote, 
six  months  before  the  election,  and  having  paid  tax  of  3 shillings  sterling 
in  support  of  the  governor,  is  qualified  to  vote.  Salary  of  Governor 
3,600  dollars.  Banks  4,  and  the  state  bank  with  3 branches.  Capital 
exclusive  of  the  U.  S.  bank  $4,631,833.  Sends  9 Representatives  to 
Congress.  278  Post  offices.  This  is  the  tenth  state  in  the  union,  in 
point  of  numbers. 

Georgia . First  settlement  1733.  Of  the  states  belonging  to  the 
union  at  the  time  of  the  declaration  of  independence,  this  was  the  last 
settled.  Constitution  formed  1777.  The  legislative  power  is  the 
General  Assembly  composed  of  a Senate  and  House  of  Representatives. 
The  members  of  both  are  chosen  annually.  A county  furnishes  one  senator 
and  Reps,  in  proportion  to  population,  including  three  and  one  fifth  of  the 
people  of  color.  A Governor  elected  by  the  people  for  two  years,  holds 
the  executive  power.  The  Assembly  meets  at  Alilledgeville.  All  citi- 
zens of  21  years,  who  have  paid  required  taxes,  and  resided  6 months  in 
the  county,  are  allowed  to  vote.  The  judicial  power  is  a superior  court, 
and  such  inferior  ones,  as  may  be  established  by  the  legislature.  The 
superior  judges,  are  elected  by  the  legislature  for  3 years,  and  the  infe- 
rior quadrennially  by  the  people.  The  clerks  biennially.  Salary  of 
Governor  $3,000.  Banks  10, beside  branches;  capital  $5,882,349, exclu- 
sive of  the  United  States  Bank.  Post  offices  251.  Sends  57  Repre- 
sentatives to  congress.  This  is  the  sixth  state  in  the  union,  in  point  of 
numbers. 

Ohio.  First  settlement  1788.  1789  territorial  government;  1802 

independent  state;  constitution.  The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  the 
General  Assembly  composed  of  a Senate  and  House  ofRepresentatives. 
The  latter  are  chosen  annually,  apportioned  among  the  voters  according  to 
the  number  of  the  voters.  The  number  cannot  exceed  72,  nor  fall  short 
of  36.  Senate  elected  biennially  in  proportion  to  the  number  of  voters. 
The  number  cannot  be  less  than  a third,  nor  more  than  half  that  of  the 
Representatives.  The  Governor  holds  the  executive  power,  and  is  elect- 
ed by  the  people  for  two  years.  The  Assembly  meets  at  Columbus. 
Residence  of  one  year,  immediately  preceding  the  election,  and  paying  or 
being  charged  with  a state  and  county  tax,  constitutes  every  white  citizen 
of  21  a voter.  The  judiciary  is  a supreme  court,  courts  of  common  pleas, 
&c.'  The  judges  are  elected  by  both  houses  for  seven  years.  Salary  of 
Governor  $1,200.  Banks  12  exclusive  of  the  United  States  Bank.  Capital 
not  ascertained.  Sends  14  Representatives  to  congress.  Post  offices 
702.  This  is  the  fourth  state  in  the  union  in  point  of  numbers. 

Michigan.  First  settlement  1670.  1805  territorial  government  un- 

der the  U.  S.  1812  taken  by  the  British  under  General  Brock.  1813 


APPENDIX, 


263 


recovered  by  the  United  States.  The  legislative  council  is  composed  of 
13  members,  elected  for  2 years.  Judges  4.  Salary  of  Governor  $2,000 
Banks  2.  Capital  not  specified.  Sends  one  delegate  1o  congress.  Post 
offices  79. 

Kentucky . First  settlement  1775.  Apart  of  Virginia,  until  1790. 
1790  Constitution  formed.  Admitted  into  the  Union  1792.  A senate 
and  House  of  Representatives  compose  the  legislative  power.  It  is  called 
the  General  Assembly.  100  is  the  highest  number  of  Representatives 
allowed  and  58  the  lowest.  Elected  annually,  and  apportioned  every  4 
years  among  the  electors.  Senators  elected  for  4 years,  one  fourth  part 
chosen  annually.  They  cannot  exceed  38,  or  fall  short  of  24.  A gov- 
ernor holds  the  executive  power,  chosen  for  4 years,  and  ineligible  for  the 
succeeding  7.  Elected  by  the  people  vive  voce.  The  assembly  meets  at 
Frankfort.  Every  male  free  white  citizen  of  21,  having  resided  in  the 
state  two  years  or  in  the  district  one  year  next  preceding  the  election 
is  qualified  to  vote.  The  judiciary  is  a court  of  appeals  and  inferior  courts. 
These  officers  hold  their  places  during  good  behavior.  Salary  Governor 
$2,000.  Banks  2 exclusive  of  the  United  States  Bank.  Capital  not  spe- 
cified. Post  Offices  322.  Sends  12  Representatives  to  congress.  This 
is  the  6th  state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

Indiana . First  settlement  near  the  commencement  of  the  present 
century.  Territorial  government,  1800.  Constitution  formed  and  ad- 
mitted into  the  union  1816.  The  legislative  authority  is  a Senate  and 
House  "of  Representatives,  which  compose  a General  assembly.  The 
Senators  are  chosen  for  3 years,  and  the  Representatives  annually.  The 
latter  cannot  exceed  100,  nor  fall  short  of  36.  The  former  must  not  be 
less,  than  one  third,  nor  more  than  one  half  the  number  of  Representa- 
tives. The  members  of  both  houses  are  apportioned  among  the  voters. 
The  Governor  is  chosen  for  3 years,  and  may  be  once  reelected.  The 
Assembly  meets  at  Indianopolis.  The  right  of  suffrage  belongs  to 
all  free  male  citizens  of  21,  who  have  resided  one  year  in  the  state  im- 
mediately previous  to  the  election.  The  judiciary  consists  of  a supreme 
court,  circuit  courts,  and  inferior  courts.  The  supreme  judges  are  ap- 
pointed by  the  Governor  with  the  consent  of  the  Senate;  those  of  the 
circuit  court  by  the  legislature,  and  the  associate  judges  by  the  people. 
Salary  of  Governor  1,000.  Sends  3 Representatives  to  congress.  Post 
offices  218.  This  is  the  13th  state  in  the  Union  in  point  of  numbers. 

Illinois.  First  settlement  in  the  latter  part  of  the  17th  century.  Passed 
from  France  to  Great  Britain,  1763.  Settlements  began  by  the  citizens  of 
the  United  States  about  1800.  Territorial  government  1809.  1818 

constitution  formed,  and  admitted  into  the  Uuion.  The  legislative 
authority  is  vested  in  a General  assembly.  Composed  of  a Senate  and 
House  of  Representatives  until  the  inhabitants  shall  amount  to  100,000, 
the  number  of  Representatives  is  confined  within  36  and  27,  and  the 
Senators  must  be  not  less  than  one  third,  nor  more  than  one  half  the 
number  of  Representatives.  The  governor  is  the  executive  power,  and 
chosen  for  4 years,  ineligible  for  the  succeding  term.  The  Representa- 
tives are  chosen  annually,  and  the  Senators  every  four  years.  The  As- 
sembly meets  every  second  year  at  Vandalia.  The  requisitions  for  a 
voter  are  the  same  as  in  most  of  the  other  states,  except  that  only  six 


264 


APPENDIX. 


months  previous  residence  is  necessary.  A supreme  court  and  inferior 
courts  constitute  the  judiciary.  The  judges  are  appointed  by  the  General 
Assembly,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior.  Salary  of  Governor 
$1,000.  Post  offices  217.  Illinois  sends  one  Representative  to  congress 
This  is  the  20th  state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

Missouri.  First  settlements  1764.  1804  separated  from  the  rest  of 

Louisiana,  and  1820  constitution  formed,  and  1821,  admitted  into  the 
Union.  A Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  form  a General  Assem- 
bly. One  Representative  at  least  from  each  county,  but  the  whole  number 
may  not  exceed  100.  The  Senators  are  elected  for  four  years,  the  seats 
of  half  being  vacated  every  two  years.  Limited  between  14  and  33. 
Chosen  by  districts,  and  apportioned  among  the  voters.  The  Governor 
is  the  executive  officer,  elected  for  four  years,  and  ineligible  for  the  four 
succeeding.  The  Assembly  meets  every  second  year  at  the  city  of  Jeffer- 
son. A voter  must  be  twenty  one,  have  resided  in  the  state  one  year  be- 
fore the  election,  and  3 months  in  the  county.  The  judiciary  is  a Supreme 
court,  chancery  circuit  courts,  &c.  The  judges  are  appointed  by  the 
Governor  with  the  Senate,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior, 
until  the  age  of  65,  Salary,  Governor  $1,500.  No  bank,  but  that  of 
the  United  States.  Post  offices,  99.  Sends  one  Representative  to  Con- 
gress, Missouri  is  the  21st,  state  in  the  Uuion  in  point  of  numbers. 

Tennessee.  First  settlement  between  1765  and  70.  Included  in 
North  Carolina,  till  1790.  1796  Constitution  formed  and  admitted  into 

the  Union.  A General  Assembly  composed  of  a Senate  and  House  of 
Representatives  composes  legislative  power.  The  members  of  both 
houses  are  elected  biennially  The  number  of  Representatives  is 
sixty.  They  are  apportioned  among  the  voters.  The  Senate  can- 
not be  less  than  one  third,  nor  more  than  half  the  number  of  Repre- 
sentatives. A Governor  is  the  executive  officer,  elected  at  the  same  time, 
and  for  the  same  term  with  the  members  of  the  Assembly.  Eligible  6 
years  in  8.  The  Assembly  meets  at  Nashville  biennially.  Every  free- 
man of  21,  owning  a freehold  in  the  county,  also  any  freeman,  who  has 
been  an  inhabitant  of  any  county  in  the  state  6 months  next  preceding 
the  election  is  entitled  to  vote.  The  judiciary  is  composed  of  such  supe- 
rior and  inferior  judges,  as  the  legislature  may  establish,  appointed  by 
both  houses.  They  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior.  Salary  of 
Governor  2,000  dollars.  The  United  States  has  a bank  at  Nashville. 
►Sends  9 Representatives  to  congress.  Post  offices  350.  This  is  the 
7th  state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

Arkansas  Territory.  Separated  from  Missouri,  and  made  independent, 
1819.  The  legislative  council  is  composed  of  5 members.  The  House 
of  Representatives  composed  of  23  members,  are  elected  biennially. 
Judges  4,  Salary  Governor  $2,000.  Sends  1 delegate  to  Congress. 
Post  Offices  52. 

The  following  specific  and  important  information,  touching  the  settled 
regions  of  this  interesting  and  little  known  Territory,  was  received  too 
late  for  insertion  under  its  appropriate  head.  The  writer,  Dr.  McKay, 
has  been,  from  the  early  periods  of  the  settlement  of  that  country,  one  of 
its  intelligent  and  respectable  citizens,  personally  acquainted  with  the 
country  he  describes.  No  apology  is  deemed  necessary  for  introducing 
such  direct,  tangible  and  important  information  here  in  the  form  of  a note. 


APPENDIX. 


265 


‘When  this  territory  was  constituted  in  1819,  a separate  government,  it 
constituted  only  5 counties,  viz:  Arkansas,  Lawrence,  Pulaski,  Clarke, 
and  Hempstead.  The  old  counties  have  been  “clipped,”  and  new  ones 
formed  by  every  session  of  the  legislature  since,  until  the  number  has  in- 
creased to  23.  Arkansas,  Phillips,  Crittenden,  St.  Francis,  Monroe  and 
Chicot  form  the  eastern  judicial  district;  Pulaski,  Conway,  Pope,  Craw- 
ford, the  western;  Plot  Spring,  Clark,  Hempstead,  Miller,  Lafayette,  Se- 
vier, and  Union,  the  southern;  Independence,  Lawrence,  Jackson,  Izard 
and  Washington,  the  northern. 

With  regard  to  the  water  courses,  I barely  know  the  names  of  the  most 
important,  such  as  Arkansas,  White,  St.  Francis,  Washita,  and  Red  River, 
with  their  branches.  The  principal  branches  of  the  Arkansas,  are  the 
Pawnee,  Canadian,  or  Main,  Arkansas,  Verdigris,  Grand,  or  Six  Bull, 
and  the  Illinois.  The  latter  rises  near  Six  Bull,  and  runs  a southern 
course  through  the  country,  now  occupied  by  the  Cherokee  Indians.  It 
is  a clear,  swift  and  beautiful  stream,  about  150  yards  in  width,  and 
empties  into  the  Arkansas  on  the  north  shore,  about  40  miles  below  the 
junction  of  Verdigris  and  Grand  River,  which  are  only  half  a mile  distant 
from  each  other  at  their  points  of  entrance.  The  Verdigris  is  the  upper 
branch.  Both  this  and  Grand  River  come  in  from  the  north,  rising  in  the 
Osage  country.  The  next  stream  of  any  size  is  the  Poto,  coming 
from  the  south,  and  emptying  into  the  Arkansas  at  Fort  Smith.  The 
above  mentioned  branches  all  belong  to  the  country  assigned  to  the  Indi- 
ans. Crawford  county  joins  the  Choctaw  and  Cherokee  line  on  the  W. 

Washington  county  lies  N.  of  Crawford,  and  is  bounded  on  the  N.  by 
the  Missouri  line.  The  county  seat  is  Fayetteville.  Lee’s  Creek  rises 
in  this  county.  It  is  a fine,  rapid  stream,  affording  good  mill  seats,  and 
discharges  its  waters  into  the  Arkansas  on  the  N.  about  8 miles  below 
Fort  Smith.  This  county  is  the  best  watered  in  the  territory.  It  abounds 
in  the  finest  springs,  bursting  from  the  limestone,  and  often  running  off 
in  bold  streams  sufficient  to  turn  a mill.  It  is  very  hilly,  and  in  many 
places  there  are  precipices  from  1 to  300  feet  in  height.  Some  of  the 
main  branches  of  White  River  traverse  it. 

Pope  county  is  next  in  descending  the  Arkansas.  It  has  no  streams 
of  any  importance,  except  Illinois  Creek,  on  the  N.,and  Pettijohn,onthe 
S.  Neither  of  these  are  navigable  for  any  distance,  Conway  succeeds 
Pope,  and  has  no  stream  of  note,  except  Cadron  Creek,  which  empties 
into  Arkansas  from  the  N.,  and  is  navigable  for  a short  distance  from  its 
mouth.  The  county  seat  is  Plarrisburgh.  Pulaski  joins  Conway,  and 
is  also  destitute  of  large  streams.  Little  Rock  is  the  county  seat,  and 
the  seat  of  the  territorial  government.  It  is  situated  on  the  S.  bank  of 
the  Arkansas,  about  250  miles  by  water,  and  about  140  by  land  from  the 
Mississippi.  The  position  is  high  and  commanding,  ascending  gradually 
from  the  river  for  one  mile  and  a half.  There  are  no  public  buildings  ex- 
cept a wooden  jail  and  court  house;  but  among  the  private  buildings 
there  are  several  handsome  erections  of  brick  and  wood.  The  town  is 
spread  over  a considerable  extent  of  ground,  and  contains  5 dry  goods 
stores,  besides  groceries  and  other  shops.  It  is  a place  of  considerable 
trade,  and  promises  to  become  a town  of  consequence.  The  smaller 
steam  boats  are  able  to  reach  this  point  at  all  seasons.  Jefferson  county 
lies  below,  and  E.  of  Pulaski.  No  streams  of  note  are  found  in  it,  ex- 
cept Plum  Bayou,  a branch  of  the  Arkansas,  putting  out  on  the  N.  side. 


266 


APPENDIX, 


and  running  such  a course,  as  to  form  an  island  between  itself  and  the 
Arkansas  of  30  miles  in  length,  and  from  4 to  8 or  10  in  width.  The 
county  seat  has  no  name  but  Fine  Bluff.  This  is  the  first  high  land  seen 
in  ascending  the  Arkansas.  Arkansas  county  touches  Jefferson.  Its 
principal  streams  are  Bayou  Meteau,  which  rises  in  Pulaski  county,  and 
runs  a S.  E.  course  of  about  100  miles,  emptying  into  the  Arkansas  on 
the  N.  about  8 miles  above  the  Post,  by  land,  and  20  by  water,  and  the 
river  Aux  Grues,  or  Crane  River,  which  also  rises  in  Pulaski,  and  taking 
an  eastwardly  course,  discharges  itself  into  White  River  about  15  miles 
from  the  mouth  of  the  latter.  These  two  streams  run  along  opposite 
sides  of  the  Big  Prairie,  which  appears  to  be  the  dividing  ridge  between 
the  waters  of  the  Arkansas  and  White  River.  This  county  reaches  to 
the  Mississippi. 

Crittenden  county  touches  the  Missouri  line  and  extends  to  island 
No.  63, 1 think.  Lawrence  joins  it  on  the  W.  Phillips  on  the  S.  and 
the  Mississippi  on  the  East.  Some  of  the  head  branches  of  the  St. 
Francis  pass  through  the  western  part  of  it.  The  seat  of  justice  is  situ- 
ated at  the  upper  end  of  a bend  of  the  Mississippi,  about  17  miles  above 
Memphis.  This  county  contains  large  bodies  of  first  rate  land;  but  like 
all  those,  which  border  on  the  Mississippi,  it  is  cut  up  by  lakes  marshes 
and  the  overflow  of  that  river.  Phillips  is  south  of  the  latter,  East  of 
Monroe  and  St.  Francis,  and  north  of  Arkansas.  Its  streams  are  St. 
Francis  River,  and  Big  Creek.  The  St.  Francis  is  about  200  yards 
wide  at  its  mouth,  and  affords  a considerable  length  of  navigation.  Big 
Creek  rises  in  the  high  lands  back  of  this  river,  and  runs  an  eastwardly 
course,  emptying  into  the  Mississippi  about  20  miles  below  the  St.  Fran- 
cis. It  would  admit  of  navigation  for  a short  distance.  This  county 
has  large  bodies  of  excellent  land.  Helena,  the  seat  of  justice,  is  situated 
on  the  West  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  about  5 miles  below  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Francis.  Here  is  the  only  point  of  highland,  that  comes  into  the 
Mississippi  on  its  west  side,  in  its  whole  course  from  the  mouth  of  the 
Ohio  to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  Chicot  county  is  south  of  Arkansas,  east  of 
Union  and  Pulaski,  and  north  of  the  Louisiana  line.  It  contains  some  good 
land,  but  is  injured  by  lakes,  marshes  and  overflow.  Villemont  is  the 
county  town,  situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  formerly  call- 
ed Point  Chicot.  Monroe  is  west  of  Phillips,  north  of  Arkansas,  south  of 
St.  Francis  and  east  of  Independence.  Its  streams  are  White  River  and 
Cachee.  The  former  forms  its  southern  limit,  and  divides  it  from  Ar- 
kansas county.  Cachee  rises  in  marshy  grounds,  and  runs  south  and 
empties  into  White  river,  about  50  miles  above  its  mouth.  I know  of 
no  name  for  its  seat  of  justice.  Such  is  the  mania  for  speculation  in 
town  making,  that  the  seat  of  justice,  particularly  in  the  new  counties, 
changes  every  session  of  the  legislature.  The  country  is  less  broken  in 
this  county,  than  in  those  on  the  Mississippi,  and  contains  large  quanti- 
ties of  fine  land  for  tillage.  St.  Francis  county  is  west  of  Phillips,  south 
of  Monroe,east  of  Jackson,  and  north  of  Lawrence  and  Crittenden.  St. 
Francis,  and  Languiie,an  inconsiderable  stream  entering  the  latter  on  the 
S.  side  are  its  chief  streams.  i.Soil  and  face  of  the  country  much  the  same  as 
Monroe.  Independence  is  north  of  Pulaski  and  Conway,  west  of  Monroe, 
south  of  Lawrence,  and  east  of  Pope  and  Izard.  It  comprises  a variety 
of  soil,  from  the  richest  bottom  lands  to  the  most  barren  hills.  The  face 
of  the  country  at  a distance  from  water  courses  is  very  much  broken  with 


APPENDIX. 


$67 


hills,  covered  with  rocks — limestone  abounds.  But  the  low  lands  along 
the  streams  are  not  exceeded  in  the  country  in  richness  of  soil.  It  is 
finely  watered  by  numerous  streams,  among  which  are  White  River  and  its 
tributaries,  viz.  Little  Red,  Strawberry  and  Black  rivers.  Batesvilie  situ- 
ated on  White  River,  and  on  the  main  road  leading  through  the  territory 
from  St.  Louis  to  Texas,  is  the  seat  of  justice.  Jackson  is  east  of  Inde- 
pendence, south  of  Pulaski,  west  of  St.  Francis  and  north  of  Lawrence. 
It  contains  but  few  inhabitants,  and  resembles  Independence  in  the  face 
of  the  country.  Lawrence  is  N.  of  Independence  and  Jackson,  east  of 
Izard,  west  of  Crittenden  and  south  of  the  Missouri  line.  Face  of  the 
country,  soil,  &c.  same  as  Independence.  Its  streams  are  the  Black 
River  and  its  tributaries,  Spring  and  Current  River.  Black  River  is 
navigable  to  Jackson,  the  seat  of  justice,  and  empties  into  White  River 
about  17  miles  below  Batesvilie.  Steam  boats  have  ascended  White 
River  to  Batesvilie;  and  it  is  presumed,  that  small  steamers  may  ascend 
Black  River  to  Jackson.  Above  these  points,  the  streams  become  too  rocky 
and  rapid  to  admit  of  safe  navigation.  Jackson  is  also  on  the  road  leading 
from  St  Louis  to  Texas.  Izard  is  north  of  Pope,  east  of  Washington 
west  of  Lawrence,  and  south  of  the  Missouri  line.  Some  branches  of 
White  River  pass  through  it.  The  staple  productions  of  these  counties 
at  present  are  cotton  and  corn.  A considerable  quantity  of  beef  and 
pork  is  also  exported  from  them.  Little  attention  has  been  paid  to  the 
raising  of  small  grain,  although  wheat  and  other  grain  grows  well.  Want 
of  proper  mills  prevent  their  cultivation  to  any  extent.  With  regard  to 
the  mineral  and  fossils  of  the  part  of  the  country,  of  which  I have  been 
speaking,  I know  little.  An  abundance  of  stone  coal  is  found,  and  it 
is  known,  that  there  is  iron  ore  in  some  places. 

Hot  Spring  county  is  bounded  N.  by  Pulaski  and  Conway,  E.  by  Union, 
S.  by  Clark,  and  W.  by  Pope.  The  surface  of  this  county  is  uneven, 
mountainous  and  rocky,  and  has  but  a small  portion  of  land  fit  for  culti- 
vation. Notwithstanding  its  poor  soil,  it  has  some  advantages  over  most 
of  the  other  counties  in  the  Territory.  The  springs,  from  which  it  takes 
its  name,  are  becoming  much  noticed,  and  of  late  years  have  been  visited 
by  persons  from  all  the  Western  States  for  health,  during  the  summer 
months.  They  have,  in  my  opinion,  no  medical  efficacy,  separate  from 
that  of  an  equal  temperature  of  increased  heat.  A salutary  effect  has 
been  produced  in  most  cases  of  chronic  rheumatism.  I have  known  in' 
dividuals  who  have  suffered  contractions  of  their  limbs  from  this  afflict- 
ing and  painful  disease,  completely  relieved  by  bathing  in  these  waters 
for  some  length  of  time.  The  water  appears  to  contain  as  little  foreign 
mixture,  as  the  purest  springs  of  the  north;  and  is  as  limpid.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  the  springs  is  an  excellent  quarry  of  whetstone,  said  by 
judges  to  be  equal  to  the  Turkey  stone.  This  county  contains  large 
quantities  of  iron  ore,  some  of  which  is  highly  magnetic.  The  springs 
issue  from  the  foot  of  two  opposite  hills  of  nearly  equal  elevation,  of 
between  4 and  500  feet.  The  valley  runs  from  north  to  south.  A small 
stream  passes  through  it.  Upon  reaching  the  springs,  it  is  so  much  enlarg- 
ed, as  to  afford  sufficient  water  to  turn  a mill.  On  the  east  side  of  the 
valley  about  30  springs  boil  up,  the  water  of  which  will  harden  an  egg  in 
15  minutes.  But  one  comes  from  the  western  side.  The  creek  empties 
into  the  Washita,  about  7 miles  south  of  the  springs. 

Clark  county  is  joined  S.  by  Hempstead,  W.  by  Crawford,  N.  by  Hot 
Spring,  and  E.  by  Union,  It  is  quite  hilly,  and  affords  a considerable 


26S 


APPENDIX. 


proportion  of  good  land,  and  is  well  watered,  as  the  Washita  and  two  of 
its  branches  run  through  it.  The  names  of  the  branches  are  the  Little 
Missouri  and  the  Fourche  Cado,  which  empties  into  it  on  the  S.  side,  a 
few  miles  above  the  entrance  of  the  Little  Missouri.  They  both  come 
in  on  the  same  side,  and  bear  a N.  E.  course.  The  road,  of  which  I have 
spoken,  leading  from  St.  Louis  to  Texas,  passes  directly  through  this 
county.  Very  little  attention  has  been  paid  to  the  subject  of  minerals  in 
this  region.  Some  salt  is  made.  The  seat  of  justice  has  been  moved 
almost  every  session  of  the  legislature.  In  fact  it  has  been  so  constantly 
on  the  move,  that  we  can  hardly  find  a resting  place,  or  name,  for  it, 

Hempstead  is  S.  of  Clark,  E.  of  Miller  and  Sevier,  N.  of  the  Mexican 
line,  and  W.  of  Lafayette.  A great  proportion  of  this  county  is  good 
land.  The  face  of  the  country  is  beautifully  diversified  with  gentle  swells 
and  vallies.  On  the  highest  ridges  are  found  great  qnantities  of  muscle 
shells  of  a very  large  size.  But  it  is  not  abundant  in  streams.  There  are 
some  springs  of  good  water,  but  they  are  not  plenty.  -The  only  navigable 
stream  is  Red  River;  and  to  reach  this  county  by  means  of  it,  the  Great 
Raft  must  be  passed.  The  bois  d’arc,  yellow,  or  Indian  bow  wood,  grows 
abundantly,  and  to  a considerable  size  here.  The  Little  Missouri  runs 
through  the  northern  part  of  it.  The  seat  of  justice  is  Washington. 

Sevier  is  S.  and  W.  of  Hempstead,  N.  of  the  Mexican  line,  and  E.  of 
Miller.  No  water  courses  of  note,  except  Red  River.  Face  of  the 
country  much  like  Hempstead.  Considerable  quantities  of  salt  have 
been  made  in  it. 

Miller  is  W.  of  Crawford,  E.  of  the  Choctaw  eastern  boundary  line, 
and  N.  of  the  Mexican  line.  Red  River  is  the  only  navigable  stream. 
The  northern  parts  are  hilly;  but  near  the  banks  of  Red  River,  there  is 
some  very  good  land.  Rio  Micha,  a considerable  stream,  runs  through 
the  western  part  of  it.  The  mouth  of  this  stream  is  the  point  where  the 
eastern  boundary  line  intersects  Red  River. 

Sevier  is  S.  of  the  Louisiana  line  and  Red  River,  W.  of  Hempstead, 
and  E.  and  N.  of  Union  and  Clark.  It  is  tolerably  level,  and  a great 
portion  of  it  first  rate  soil,  but  not  well  watered.  The  only  navigable 
stream  is  Red  River.  There  is  a large  savanna,  or  prairie,  called  Prairie 
Long,  in  it,  running  E.  and  W.  for  a considerable  distance,  parallel  with 
Red  River. 

Union  joins  the  Louisiana  line  on  the  S.  E.,  Chicot  on  the  E.  Clark 
and  Hempstead  S.;  and  Jefferson  N.  The  character  of  the  soil  of  this 
county  is  various.  It  presents  hills,  swamps,  and  a portion  of  first  rate 
land.  The  Washita  runs  through  it,  and  in  it  receives  Saline  Creek,  a 
beautiful,  clear  and  rapid  stream  from  the  N.  W.  Seat  of  justice  Corea 
Fabre. 

I have  aimed,  in  the  foregoing  sketch,  to  come  as  near  the  truth,  as 
possible.  Descriptions  have  been  given  of  detached  portions  of  this  ter- 
ritory, greatly  overrating  its  advantages.  Persons  have  visited  it  upon 
the  strength  of  these  representations,  and  being  disappointed,  their  esti- 
mate has  fallen  as  much  too  low,  as  it  had  been  raised  before  too  high, 
I have  neil her  added  nor  diminished,  concealed  any  disadvantages,  nor 
blazoned  any  advantages.  I am  aware,  that  the  prejudice,  originating  as 
I have  mentioned,  has  had  a tendency,  for  some  years,  to  keep  the  terri- 
tory in  the  back  ground. 

The  exports  of  the  territory  of  Arkansas  are  cotton,  corn,  beef  hides,' 
peltries,  live  cattle,  cypress  timber,  plank,  &c. 


APPENDIX* 


269 


Alabama.  First  settlement,  long  before  it  contained  many  civilized 
inhabitants.  Since  1810  the  increase  of  population  has  been  rapid. 
Territorial  government  1817.  Constitution  1819.  Admitted  into  the 
Union  1820.  The  legislative  power  is  similar  to  that  of  Tennessee. 
The  Representatives  are  elected  annually,  and  in  proportion  to  the  pop- 
ulation. They  cannot  exceed  100  nor  fall  short  of  60.  The  Senators 
are  chosen  for  three  years,  one  third  every  year.  The  Senators  cannot 
be  less  than  one-fourth,  nor  more  than  one-third  of  the  number  of  Rep- 
resentatives. The  executive  power  rests  with  the  Governor,  elected  for 
two  years,  and  eligible  four  years  out  of  six.  The  Assembly  meets  at 
Tuscaloosa.  Every  white  male  citizen  of  21,  having  resided  one  year  in 
the  state,  and  the  last  three  months  in  the  county  or  town,  is  qualified  to 
vote.  The  judiciary  is  a supreme  court,  circuit  courts,  &c.  The  judges, 
after  1833,  are  to  be  elected  by  both  Houses  every  six  years.  Salary 
Governor  $2,000.  Banks  2.  Capital  $1,186,927  09,  exclusive  of  the 
United  States  Bank.  Sends  3 Representatives  to  Congress.  Post  Of- 
fices 169.  This  is  the  15th  state  in  the  Union,  in  point  of  numbers. 

Mississippi.  First  settlement  1716.  Ceded  to  the  English.  Terri- 
torial government,  1798.  An  independent  state  1817.  Constitution 
same  year.  A Senate  and  House  of  Representatives  form  the  General 
Assembly.  The  Representatives  are  elected  annually,  in  the  ratio  of  one 
to  every  3,000  white  inhabitants.  When  the  inhabitants  exceed  80,000 
the  Representatives  cannot  be  less  than  36,  nor  more  than  100.  The 
Senators  elected  for  three  years,  one-third  chosen  annually.  Their  num- 
ber is  limited  between  one-fourth  and  one-third  of  that  of  the  Represen- 
tatives. The  Governor  is  the  executive  officer,  elected  for  two  years. 
The  General  Assembly  meets  at  Jackson  annually.  The  qualifications 
of  a voter  are  being  21  years  of  age,  residence  of  6 months  in  the  coun- 
ty, being  enrolled  in  the  militia,  and  paying  taxes.  The  judiciary  is  a 
supreme  and  inferior  courts,  &c.  The  judges  are  elected  by  the  General 
Assembly,  and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behavior,  till  the  age  of  65. 
Salary  Governor  $2,500.  Bank  of  the  state  at  Natchez  has  3 branches, 
and  a capital  of  $1,000,000.  Sends  1 Representative  to  Congress. 
Post  Offices  108.  This  is  the  twenty-second  state  in  the  Union,  in  point 
of  numbers. 

The  following  notices  of  the  state  of  Mississippi,  from  Mr.  Dunbar, 
were  received  subsequently  to  the  publication  of  the  Geography  of  that 
state,  in  the  1st  volume  of  this  work.  In  following  an  incompetent  guide 
some  mistakes  crept  into  that  work,  in  regard  to  the  names  and  number 
of  the  counties.  This  information,  in  reference  to  the  interior  of  a state, 
about  which  less  is  known,  perhaps,  than  the  interior  of  any  state  in  the 
Union,  is  deemed  too  important  to  be  omitted,  though  some  parts  of  it, 
may  have  been  anticipated.  ‘The  state  of  Mississippi  is  divided  into 
26  counties.  The  principal  town  is  Natchez,  Adams  county,  containing 
2,790  inhabitants,  of  which  1,447  are  slaves  and  free  colored  persons. 
That  part  of  the  town,  called  “under  the  hill”  is  one  of  the  most  noted 
places,  in  the  view  of  boatmen,  on  the  whole  course  of  the  Mississippi; 
and  was  formerly  the  scene  of  more  profligacy  and  outrage,  than,  perhaps, 
any  other  place  in  the  United  States.  But,  owing  to  the  establishment 
of  a vigilant  and  severe  system  of  police,  and  to  the  decrease  of  trade  by 
flat  boats,  it  has  become  comparatively  a sober  place.  Almost  all  the 
Vol.  II.  38 


270 


APPENDIX. 


produce  business  of  the  upper  country  is  carried  on  there  by  our  most 
respectable  merchants  in  that  line.  It  contains  4 churches,  the  Presby- 
terian, which  is  a very  handsome  edifice,  the  Episcopal  also  showing  taste 
in  the  architecture,  and  a Methodist  and  Baptist  church,  one  of  which  is 
of  brick.  A Masonic  Hall  is  situated  on  the  principal  street,  and  pre- 
sents a specimen  of  good  architectural  taste. 

There  are  3 Banks  in  Natchez;  the  Brandi  Bank  of  the  United  States, 
the  Planter’s  Bank,  a new  institution,  created  at  our  last  session^  and  the 
Bank  of  the  State  of  Mississippi,  dating  its  commencement  in  the  year 
1811.  It  has  branches  at  Woodville,  Port  Gibson,  and  Vicksburgh. 
Fort  Rosalie,  commanding  a view  of  the  Mississippi,  near  this  place,  is 
strongly  identified  with  the  early  history  of  our  state,  and  the  cruel  wars 
which  ended  in  the  extermination  of  that  gallant  tribe  of  Indians,  whose 
name  was  given  to  our  town.  The  health  of  Natchez  is  uniformly  good, 
except  when  the  epidemic  yellow  fever  visits  us.  Its  first  appearance 
was  in  1817,  since  which  we  have  been  repeatedly  scourged  by  it;  though1 
we  have  escaped  it  the  two  last  years.  The  disease  has  always  been  of 
a particularly  malignant  character  here. 

The  next  town  in  point  of  population,  is  Port  Gibson,  in  Claiborne 
county,  which  contains  1,500  inhabitants.  It  is  a place  of  considerable 
business,  and  is  situated  on  Bayou  Pierre,  about  10  miles  from  its  de~ 
bouche  into  the  Mississippi.  It  is  navigable  to  this  point  only  in  high 
water;  and  much  of  the  business  is  carried  on  through  a small  town 
situated  on  a point  of  the  Mississippi,  called  the  Grand  Gulf.  It  is  some- 
times very  unhealthy,  owing,  probably,  to  the  vicinity  of  extensive  swamps. 
Vicksburgh  is  in  Warren  county,  and  is  a flourishing  town  of  recent  ori- 
gin, sustained  by  an  extensive  and  rich  back  country,  and  by  being  the 
only  convenient  site  for  a town  for  many  miles  above  and  below.  Still 
further  up  is  Manchester,  in  Yazoo  county,  on  the  river  Yazoo,  a small 
town,  but  rapidly  increasing.  The  contiguous  county  is  very  fertile, 
producing  large  crops  of  cotton,  which  are  shipped  from  Manchester  on 
steam  boats,  which  reach  that  place  in  high  water  without  difficulty. 

Memphis  is  considered  at  present  as  included  within  the  territorial 
limits  of  Tennessee,  though  we  lay  claim  to  it ; and  a resolution  of  our 
legislature  has  empowered  theexecutive  to  appoint  a commissioner  on  our 
part,  to  determine  at  what  point  the  35°  of  latitude,  our  northern  bound- 
ary, crosses  the  Mississippi.  The  result  will  soon  be  known. 

As  to  our  seat  of  government,  Jackson,  in  Hinds  county,  the  less  said 
about  it,  the  better.  It  is  on  Pearl  River,  which  is  not  navigable  to  that 
point,  except  in  the  extreme  of  high  water.  The  surrounding  country  is 
the  picture  of  sterility.  The  public  buildings  are  mere  temporary  struc- 
tures, and  it  contains  few  inhabitants,  beside  the  officers  of  government. 
The  necessity  of  removing  the  seat  of  government  to  a more  eligible  po- 
sition is  so  apparent,  that  no  new  appropriation  will  be  made  for  buildings, 
which  would  soon  be  abandoned.  Clinton,  in  the  same  county,  is  a 
pleasant  little  village,  a place  of  resort  in  the  summer  for  its  salubrity, 
and  for  drinking  the  waters  of  its  sulphur  spring.  Woodville,  in  Wilkin- 
son county,  is  a handsome  village,  containing  about  800  inhabitants,  and 
being  the  seat  of  justice  for  the  county.  If  a projected  rail  road,  to  con- 
nect it  with  St.  Francisville  in  Louisiana,  should  be  completed,  it  will 
become  a place  of  commercial  importance.  The  population  of  our  state, 
according  to  the  returns  of  the  marshal,  is  136,806.  Free  white  males 


appendix. 


271 


38,497.  Females  32,121.  Total  70,618.  Male  slaves  33,072.  Fe- 
male 32,587.  Total  Slaves  65,659.  Free  colored  males  292.  Females 
237.  Total  of  free  colored  persons  529.  In  the  appointment  of  Rep- 
resentatives to  Congress,  our  population  will  therefore  be  rated  at  1 10,330 ; 
and  we  are  therefore  entitled  to  another  vote  on  the  floor  of  Congress. 

Louisiana.  First  settlement  1699.  Purchased  by  the  United  States 
1803.  1804  set  apart,  as  the  Territory  of  Orleans.  Admitted  into  the 

Union  1812.  Constitution  same  year.  A Senate  and  House  of  Rep- 
resentatives form  the  legislative  power,  styled  the  General  Assembly. 
The  Representatives  cannot  exceed  50,  nor  fall  short  of  25,  and  are  ap- 
portioned according  to  the  number  of  electors,  as  ascertained  by  enumer- 
ation every  4 years.  The  state  is  divided  into  16  senatorial  districts, 
each  of  which  furnishes  one  Senator.  They  are  elected  for  4 years,  half 
chosen  every  two  years.  A Governor  is  the  executive,  elected  for  4 years. 
The  people  vote  for  Governor  at  the  same  time  with  the  Representatives 
and  Senators.  The  two  Houses  then  elect  one  of  the  two  candidates 
elected  by  the  people.  The  Assembly  meets  annually  at  Donaldsonville. 
Every  white  citizen  of  21,  who  has  resided  one  year  in  the  county  next 
preceding  the  election,  and  paid  a state  tax  within  6 months  preceding, 
is  entitled  to  vote.  A supreme  court  and  inferior  courts  constitute  the 
judiciary.  The  judges  are  appointed  by  the  Governor  with  the  Senate, 
and  hold  their  offices  during  good  behaviour.  Salary  Governor  $ 7,500 . 
Banks  4.  One  of  them  has  5 branches.  Whole  capital  $8,500,000,  ex- 
clusive of  the  United  States  Bank.  Sends  3 Representatives  to  Congress. 
Post  Offices  63.  Louisiana  is  the  nineteenth  state  in  the  Union,  in  point 
of  numbers. 

Florida . Conquered  by  the  Spaniards  1739.  Ceded  to  Great  Britain 
1763,  and  divided  into  E*  and  W.  Florida.  1781  recovered  by  Spain. 
1821  ceded  by  Spain  to  the  United  States.  1822  two  divisions  united 
under  one  government,  called  the  Territory  of  Florida.  Legislative 
council  composed  of  16  members,  meets  at  Tallahassee.  Judges  4. 
Salary  Governor  $2,500.  Capital  of  the  Bank  of  Florida  $600,000. 
Post  Offices  38.  Sends  1 Delegate  to  Congress, 

District  of  Columbia-  Ceded  to  the  United  States  1790,  and  is  under 
the  immediate  government  of  Congress.  The  City  of  Washington 
within  the  district  became  the  seat  of  the  United  States  Government, 
1800.  The  Congress  of  the  United  States  meets  here  every  year  on  the 
first  Monday  in  December,  and  the  Supreme  Court  of  the  United  States 
annually  on  the  second  Monday  in  January.  Banks  in  the  District  13, 
exclusive  of  the  United  States  Bank.  Post  Offices  3. 


CONTENTS  OF  VOL.  II. 


Brief  General  View  of  the  United  States,  3 ; Mountains,  4;  Lakes, 
Rivers,  Geology,  and  Physical  Aspect,  Climate,  5;  Soil,  Productions, 
Articles  of  Export,  6;  Rank  of  Chief  Towns,  7 ; Canals  and  Rail  Roads, 
7;  Schools,  Religion,  9;  Military  Force,  Revenue,  Federal  Constitution, 
10;  Aborigines,  1 1 ; Public  Lands,  12;  Public  Debt,  Appropriations, 
Manufactures,  General  Remarks,  13. 


Atlantic  States.  Maine,  General  Aspect,  Climate,  Productions, 
17;  Harbors,  Bays,  Population,  Rivers,  Lakes,  Manufactures,  Towns, 
18;  Education,  Religion,  19;  Government,  Panoramic  View,  20. 

New  Hampshire,  Divisions,  Population,  20 ; Aspect,  Lakes,  Rivers, 
21;  Towns,  22;  Literary  Institutions,  Character  of  the  Population, 
Rivers,  Lakes,  Towns,  25;  Religious  Character,  Literature,  Exports, 
26. 

Massachusetts,  Divisions,  Population,  Aspect,  27;  Education,  28; 
Religion,  Mountains,  Rivers,  Bays,  Chief  Towns,  29;  Islands,  Roads 
and  Canals,  Productions,  History,  36. 


Rhode  Island,  Counties,  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  Rivers,  Bays  and 
Islands,  Productions,  37 ; Chief  Towns,  38 ; Exports,  89. 

Connecticut,  39 ; Divisions,  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  Productions, 
Rivers,  Religion,  40;  Literature,  Manufactures,  Towns,  41 ; Roads  and 
Canals,  &,c.,  Manners,  Minerals  and  Fossils,  43. 


CONTENTS, 


273 


New  York,  Divisions,  Population,  44;  Physical  Aspect,  Islands^ 
Mountains,  Rivers  and  Lakes,  45;  Canals,  46;  Watering  Places,  Mineral 
Waters,  47;  Productions,  Exports,  Climate,  Natives,  Chief  Towns,  48;  i 
Scenery,  55 ; Education,  56 ; General  Statistics,  Manufactures,  57. 

New  Jersey,  Physical  Aspect,  Rivers,  Divisions,  Population,  Climate, 
Products,  58;  Manufactures,  Religious  Denominations,  Literature,  59 ; 
Chief  Towns,  60;  Roads  and  Canals,  61. 


Pennsylvania,  61;  Divisions,  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  62;  Soil, 
and  Productions,  Religion,  Rivers,  63 ; Canals  and  Rail  Roads,  64  ; 
Manufactures,  Education,  65;  Chief  Towns,  66. 

Delaware,  Physical  Aspect,  Divisions,  Population,  Shipping,  Manufac- 
tures and  Commerce,  71 ; Canals,  Literature,  Religion,  Chief  Towns, 
72;  History,  73. 

Maryland,  Divisions,  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  73;  Productions, 
Rivers,  Climate,  74;  Religion,  Literature,  Exports,  Roads  and  Canals,; 
75;  Chief  Towns,  77;  Manners  of  the  People,  79. 

District  of  Columbia,  Divisions,  Population,  Towns,  79. 

Virginia,  81 ; Divisions,  82;  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  Rivers,  82; 
Productions,  Minerals  and  Fossils,  84;  Canals,  Climate,  Curiosities,  86; 
Religion,  87;  Education,  Exports,  Chief  Towns,  88;  Character  and 
Manners,  90. 

North  Carolina,  Divisions,  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  91 ; Soil  and 
Productions,  Minerals,  Rivers,  92;  Climate,  Chief  Towns,  93;  Educa- 
tion, Roads  and  Canals,  General  Remarks,  95. 

South  Carolina,  Divisions,  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  98 ; Climate, 
Productions,  97 ; Minerals,  Rivers,  98 ; Exports,  Literature,  Chief  Towns, 
99;  Roads  and  Canals,  Religion,  General  Remarks,  101. 


Georgia,  Divisions,  102;  Population,  Physical  Aspect,  Climate,  102; 
Productions,  Exports,  Canals  and  Internal  Improvements,  Education, 


274 


CONTENTS. 


Natives,  104;  Rivers,  Islands,  Chief  Towns,  105;  Minerals,  100;  Re- 
ligion, General  Remarks,  107. 

Danish  Possessions  in  North  America,  Position,  Climate,  Soil  and  Coun- 
try, 108;  Smoke  of  Ice,  Animals,  Exports,  Natives,  Language,  Imple- 
ments and  Canoes,  109;  Character,  Religion,  Population,  Towns,  110. 


Iceland,  110;  Rocks,  Mountains,  Volcanoes,  Hot  Springs,  Fossils, 
Air,  Climate,  111;  Vegetation,  Domestic  Animals,  Fish,  Divisions, 
Towns,  112;  Commerce,  Inhabitants,  113. 


Spitsbergen,  113;  Whale  Fishery,  Floating  Wood,  114. 

New  Siberia,  Russian  America,  Physical  Aspect,  114;  Natives*  Com- 
merce of  the  Russians,  115. 

British  Possessions  in  North  America,  Physical  Aspect,  Rivers,  116; 
Climate,  Soil,  Fish,  Animals,  Vegetation,  Trade,  Lord  Selkirk,  Natives, 
1 17 ; Knisteneaux  Indians,  1 18. 

Labrador,  118;  Moravians,  Icy  Archipelago,  119. 

British  America,  119;  New  Foundland,  Productions,  Climate,  Banks, 
Fish,  Dog,  120;  Population,  Inhabitants,  121. 


Nova  Scotia,  Climate,  Trees,  Chief  Towns,  121;  Cape  Breton,  Prince 
Edward’s  Island,  and  Anticosti,  122;  New  Brunswick,  St.  John’s  River, 
Population,  Towns,  122;  Gaspee,  123. 

Lower  Canada,  Divisions,  Rivers,  123;  Montmorency  Cascade,  Soil 
and  Climate,  Agriculture,  124;  Animals,  Metals,  Chief  Towns,  125; 
Commerce,  Population,  126;  Amusements,  Society,  Government, 
Revenue,  Expenses,  127;  Military  Importance,  Savages,  History, 
128. 

Upper  Canada,  Divisions,  Population,  128;  Rivers,  Soil  and  Produc- 
tions,  Climate,  Animals,  Towns,  Lakes,  129;  Canals,  130. 


CONTENTS. 


275 


Mexican  Republic,  Physical  Aspect,  131 ; Provinces,  Square  Miles? 
Population,  Chief  Towns,  132;  Divisions,  Mountains,  132;  Mines,  Riv- 
ers, Lakes,  134;  Harbors,  Climate,  Periodical  Rains,  135;  New  Mexico, 
Vegetable  Productions,  136;  Edible  Plants,  137;  Zoology,  137;  Popu- 
lation, 138;  Languages,  Topography,  140;  Savages,  142;  Provinces, 
Chief  Towns,  and  Mines,  142;  History,  146. 

South  America,  General  Aspect,  147;  Rivers,  148;  Mountains,  149; 
Temperature,  150;  Animals,  Caraccas,  151;  Population,  152;  Spanish 
Guiana,  Chief  Towns,  Black  Waters,  Llanos,  153;  New  Grenada, 
Chief  Towns,  154;  Volcanoes,  The  Gallipagos,  Peru,  157;  Mines, 
Towns,  158;  Population  and  Character  of  the  Inhabitants,  159; 
Paper  Insect,  160;  Chili,  Paraguay,  Terra  Magellanica  or  Patagonia, 
160;  Aspect  of  Chili,  and  Productions,  160;  Animals,  161 ; Towns,  161 ; 
Cuyo,  161;  Tucuman,  162;  Paraguay,  162;  Towns,  162;  Monte  Video, 
Missions,  Buenos  Ayres,  163;  Adjacent  Provinces,  164;  Patagonia, 
Straits  of  Magellan,  164;  History,  165;  Government,  166;  Brazil,  In- 
habitants, Soil,  166;  Climate,  Minerals,  Precious  Stones,  &c.  167; 
Plants,  168;  Birds,  Departments,  Chief  Towns,  169;  Rio  Grande,  St. 
Catherine,  Plain  of  Corritiva,  District  of  Santos,  San  Paulo,  Minas 
Geraes,  170;  Goyez,  Bahia,  Pernambuco,  Piauhy,  Grand  Para  and  Rio 
Negro,  171;  Natives,  Government,  Guiana,  Seasons,  172;  Diseases, 
Inundations,  Medicinal  Plants,  Forest  Trees,  173;  Quadrupeds,  174; 
Essequibo,  Demarara  and  Berbice,  174;  Surinam,  Revolted  Negroes, 
175;  Cayenne,  Indians,  176. 

West  Indies  or  Columbian  Archipelago,  176;  Animals,  177;  Inhabit- 
ants, Population,  178;  Cuba,  179;  Jamaica,  180;  St,  Domingo,  180; 
Porto  Rico,  181;  Bahamas,  182;  Santa  Cruz,  Anguilla,  182;  St.  Mar- 
tin’s, St.  Bartholomew,  St.  Eustatia,  Antigua,  St.  Christopher’s,  Guada- 
loupe,  183;  Martinico,  Barbadoes,  Tobago,  Trinidad,  185;  Curacoa, 
185;  Bonair  and  Aruba,  186,  Trade  of  the  West  Indies;  Morning  in  the 
Antilles,  188. 

Appendix,  189;  Area  of  the  country  watered  by  the  principal  rivers 
and  branches  in  the  United  States,  189;  Meteorological  Table,  191; 
Trees  common  to  Louisiana,  195;  Flora  of  Louisville,  196;  Cryptoga- 
mia,  204;  Flora  of  Nachitoches,  205;  List  of  the  Animals  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi Valley,  207;  Catalogue  of  Birds  most  commonly  seen  between 
the  Lakes  and  the  Sabine,  208;  Religious  Denominations  in  the  Western 
Country,  209;  Religious  Denominations  in  the  United  States,  210;  Ex- 


CONTENTS* 


276 

ports  from  Cincinnati  and  New  Orleans,  211 ; Steam  Boats,  on  the  West- 
ern Waters;  Prices  of  passage  from  different  points,  212;  Military  Posts 
and  Arsenals,  212;  Census  of  the  United  States  for  1830;  Number  of 
free  white  males,  214;  Free 'white  females,  216;  Male  slaves,  220,  Fe- 
male slaves,  221 ; Free  colored  males,  222;  Free  colored  females,  223; 
White  persons  included  in  the  foregoing  who  are  deaf  and  dumb  or  blind, 
or  aliens,  or  foreigners  not  naturalized,  228;  Slaves  and  colored  persons 
included  in  the  foregoing,  who  are  deaf  or  dumb,  or  blind,  227 ; Recap- 
itulation exhibiting  the  general  aggregate  of  each  description  of  persons 
in  the  United  States. 

Population  of  the  Counties  and  County  Towns  of  the  different  States, 
according  to  the  census  of  1830, 231 ; Maine,  New  Hampshire,  Vermont, 
231;  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  Connecticut,  232 ; New-York,  233 ; 
New  Jersey,  231;  Pennsylvania,  235;  Delaware,  Maryland,  236;  Vir- 
ginia, 237 ; North  Carolina,  240;  South  Carolina,  241;  Georgia,  242; 
Alabama,  Mississippi,  Louisiana,  244;  Tennessee,  245;  Kentucky  247; 
Ohio,  250;  Indiana,  251;  Illinois,  252;  Missouri,  253;  District  of  Co- 
lumbia, Florida  Territory,  253;  Michigan  Territory,  Arkansas  Territory’ 
254. 


Miscellaneous  Statistical  Table,  255.  Synopsis  of  the  Political  Sta- 
tistics of  the  states  in  their  order,  Maine,  New  Hampshire,  257 ; Vermont, 
Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island,  258;  Connecticut,  New-York,  New-Jersey, 
259  Pennsylvania,  Delaware,  Maryland,  260;  Virginia,  North  Carolina, 
South  Carolina,  261;  Georgia,  Ohio,  Michigan  262;  Kentucky,  Indiana, 
Illinois,  263;  Missouri,  Tennessee,  Arkansas  Territory,  Note  containing 
specific  and  important  information  relative  to  the  latter,  264 ; Alabama, 
Mississippi,  Note  containing  important  information  with  regard  to  the 
latter,  269;  Louisiana,  Florida,  District  of  Columbia,  271. 


